I just wonder how these discussions would go if it were not for the Ford 6.0 and 6.4 debacle?
I know if I would have unknowing bought one, and it failed as several have, I would likely have a different attitude about the diesel/gas issue.
Neighbor fired his up this morning in 27 degree temp, didn't hear how long it had to crank to start, but ran pretty rough for the first minute or two.
My 2006 6.0 fires up quick and runs smooth after only a second or two. It's been in the low to mid 20s here the past week and I haven't had any trouble (I don't have a plug on mine).
I dare you to find someone who started with a mediocre TV who did not upgrade the TV with 2-3 years. This should answer if you can tow it or not.
How exactly does this answer the question of if a specific trailer can be towed safely and comfortably? No one is disputing the fact that a bigger tow vehicle would be better, but there are plenty of trailers that can be towed with a midsize without ANY issue.
FYI, a newer Toyota 4Runner is so much more advanced than your 1997 Ranger that the two shouldn't even be compared. Not only is it a physically much larger vehicle (wider and heavier), it is much more powerful and includes many safety features that didn't exist in 1997.
To the OP - the trailers you are looking at seem to be a perfect fit for your tow vehicle. Get the one you want and have fun!
The trailer we're drooling over has a dry weight 275 tongue weight, a dry weight of 3400 lbs and fully loaded 5400 lbs. I'm not sure why they add 2000 lbs for fully loaded, but if we only added 1000 lbs which I've heard is a reasonable assumption, this trailer would be gross weight 4500 lbs. At 10% tongue weight, it would be 450 and 15% would be 680, so we'd "weigh in" at approximately 12% if we limited the "stuff" aboard to 1000 lbs.
I think that this is a completely reasonable TT to tow with a 4Runner. The dry weight is well below your limit (leaving room for stuff you put in the trailer), and the tongue weight is manageable. The 5,400 lbs that they state full loaded means that the trailer is capable of handling that much weight. For what it's worth, I have a 35' Jayco and when it is packed for a week long trip, it has ~1,300lbs of cargo in it. This is for a family of 5 (three small children). In the size trailer you're looking at, I'd be surprised if you ended up with more than 750lbs of cargo.
Anyhow, it sounds like this is the perfect trailer for a mid-size tow vehicle. I'd pull it all day long.
I've got one on my truck and wouldn't go without it. I like the look of it, and it definitely helps protect the front end. This particular one used to be on my Dad's truck and saved him from a couple of deer (zero damage compared to potential major damage). He had a similar one on the front of an older truck that really save him in a collision once... he was doing 55 and someone pulled right out in front of him and there was nothing to do but hit him. The grill guard got bent up pretty good, but the truck was completely driveable, compared to being nearly totalled. Air bags didn't deploy, nothing behind the grill was hurt, just needed some new sheet metal. I'll always have one on my trucks for this reason.
we have to touch upon the payment factor , many families that want to RV as a activity look at 'can we afford the payments' ?
These trucks cannot be financed / leased like pick ups(that is used as collateral). No bank will do it unless you have equity for some kind, and if you do you may as well just write a cheque yourself.Howdy hone eagle,
What you said is true, it would be pretty difficult to get financing to buy an HDT that would be used as a"recreational vehicle". This fact does take a bite out of the number of folks who will be able to take advantage of this option.
If a person doesn't have the cash to buy an HDT outright to me it makes much more sense to put off the instant gratification that has become a part of our culture to save the money over a period of time that will enable paying LESS for MORE that can be enjoyed for many years to come. Now I know full well that what I have just written goes against the "have it all now, pay for it later" way of life most Americans aspire to but that life style also comes at a great cost.
I agree with what you're saying, but for some folks that would mean not camping for 10 or so years while they save up. It also may make sense for someone who goes camping several times a month, but not for those who only go 4 or 6 times a year. Lots of folks have other trailers to pull as well that may not require a 3/4 ton, much less an HDT. Other folks need the bed on their pickups for different things, so that would mean having a pickup AND an HDT, which isn't an option for people who have limited storage space (most of us).
The point is that while it obviously makes good sense for you to do it, it isn't a good solution for everyone, even if they were giving HDTs away. It's not as easy as saying that an HDT is cheaper to buy than a new 1 ton dually, and everyone who has an RV should get one.
It is my understanding that the yellow sticker is the true weight of that specific trailer when it rolls off the assy line. This does not include any kind of dealer added options (propane, batteries, etc).
I did the vent pump mod on my truck, and now I can fill all the way to the top without having to stop and let the foam die down.
Supposedly, the reason for so much extra expansion room is because Ford (not sure about the other trucks) uses the same tank for gasoline and diesel, and the gas trucks need the room for expansion, whereas the diesels do not. I used to be able to put 4 extra gallons after the first click, but it took me about 5-10 minutes, depending on the pump. Now it fills right up to the top, which is really nice.
PS. I already had the bed off working on some other things, so the mod was very easy to do. I probably wouldn't have done it if the bed wasn't already removed.
If you're replacing the front springs, try to find some that are already assembled with the shock; it will make the installation a LOT easier. If you don't, you'll have to have a spring compressor. It can be done (I've done it), but it would be much easier/faster to buy them already together.
The rears are super easy to install, both shocks and springs. Once you get the shocks off, the springs almost fall out.
It is a beautiful park. We were there last year the end of April; it was already pretty warm then. We had some over the air TV, but no cell service. I've heard that cell and TV are available in the farthest south loop (Mesquite). Lots of trails for hiking and biking. Canyon, TX is just to the west and we went in for golf and eats. Feel free to PM me with any other questions.
Which loop were you in? How were the tables and sites? Based on pictures I've seen and google maps, there isn't much for shade (trees) in the park.
Howdy everyone -
I'm in the process of planning a big trip to Palo Duro Canyon State Park. This will be sometime next spring, but I figure it's never too early to start planning. Can you guys give me some general feedback? What you liked, didn't like, what camping loops are good, etc? If you have any pictures, that would be awesome!
I originally wanted to go in May in order to take advantage of the weather, but the show that everyone raves about doesn't begin showing until June, so we'll probably go early June. Anyone have any input on what kind of weather to expect at this time of year?
Anyone have any idea how far in advance spots need to be reserved at this park?
We will be traveling from Ft. Worth with two adults and three kids (5, 2, and infant) with the TT in tow. I've been wanting to go to the canyon ever since getting the TT a couple of years back, and now that we live in Ft. Worth, it's at least a little bit closer.
Thanks for any feedback you can give!
I've got Duratracs on my F250 and Silent Armors on my wife's 4Runner. I really like both tires and both have performed very well for me (I don't usually see snow, though). The Duratracs are not any noisier than the less aggressive tires that I replaced with them. Not sure on fuel mileage, but it is probably lower (I increased tires size and put a 2" lift on at the same time, so it's hard to tell if anything was changed just by the tread design).
If you move up to 285s on a 17" rim, you can get D rated tires (for the Silent Armors, at least), which may be a good compromise for you regarding weight ratings.
My 2004 Tundra has the 4.6L engine, 4x4, Access Cab model (7,000# capacity).
Ummm... 2004 had the 4.7, not the 4.6. Vastly different engine and power output.
Call it rounding error (4667cc), it's not that big of a deal.
They are also completely different trucks, but I digress.
If I were the OP, I'd be looking at a bigger trailer to along with that truck. You should be able to comfortably tow something in the 5k dry weight range. You should go ahead and skip buying the trailer you want now, and buy the one you think you will want in a year or two. You'll save money in the long run, and get to enjoy a bigger trailer right now!