I'm going to take some new fuses with me this weekend when we go. I don't think it's a thermal overload because it doesn't work after it's been sitting for a while (it didn't work last night after sitting for two weeks, and it was 45° outside, so it wasn't close to hot). I think I'll write Jayco and find out which fuse it is exactly and then go from there. I'll also ask about manually cranking it.
I have a 2011 Jayco BHDS and my second slide out has been giving me trouble lately. When I go to set up, it won't slide out unless I fiddle with the fuses. I actually don't know which fuse powers the slide motor (there is a breaker for the 'Main Slide Motor,' but no mention of the second slide motor). None of the fuses are blown, but if I basically go press on them and wiggle them, the slide will then work. What do I do one day when it doesn't work at all? Is there a manual way to crank it out/in? My bottom is covered/insulated, so I can't see a whole lot under there.
I always thought it was disallowed, but the COE park we stayed at a couple of weeks ago, said it was OK to let out grey tanks drain at the site. We are always careful to keep as much food out of the drain as possible, but I know everyone isn'y that careful about it. I'm with everyone else, I haven't seen any other places that allow it.
Which park was this? We frequent COE parks around central and north Texas, so just curious....
If the hitch that comes on the 4Runner is rated for 5k lbs, I wouldn't hesitate to hook a 5k trailer to it. You'll probably be limited by TW before overall weight first anyway.
In any event, I would tow the X18D with a new 4Runner without thinking twice about it. A smaller trailer will pull better, and a bigger truck would be nice, but you've already got the 4Runner and the X18D seems like a nice fit.
You can do it with the wheels on, but they really aren't hard to take off and will give you more space to work. I installed a set on my '06 F250 in a couple of hours. From what I understand, AirLift has redesigned their bracketry to make install a bit easier now as well.
Why not just use the old WD drawbar with sway mounts already part of the forging? You wouldn't have to use the WD bars if you didn't want to.
Speaking of, why are you switching to a standard draw bar? Just tired of hitching and un-hitching with the WD bars?
I just can't see myself needing to adjust the airbags on the fly.
I think that a separate air compressor like nremtp143 installed (although his is plumbed in), is the route I would go.
I used it more than I initially thought I would. It's nice to be able to air down when you unhook so that the truck doesn't ride like a brick. Then you can air back up and hit the road. If you forget to air up, or have the wrong pressure (ride is poor), you can adjust as necessary on the fly.
I had a gauge setup on my old Tacoma, and the wireless setup on my F250. Both were nice setups.
The wireless is more expensive, but a lot easier to install (don't have to run an air line into the cab or do any wiring inside). The gauge style controller is cheaper, but harder to install.
I had an AirLift WirelessAir setup on my F250 and liked it quite a bit. I would go with the wireless again if I were to redo it.
city claims it will save $125K in gasoline..............over 10 years.
They will definitely save money on gasoline, but I wonder how much it will cost to charge those same vehicles? When folks talk about how great electric cars are, they tend to leave out (or forget) the fact that they have to be charged up and that electricity is not free.
Add the fact that most of the power in the US comes from coal burning power plants, and there goes the 'green' benefit of electric cars.
Interesting rational. Just curious, unless you are at a campground where you are metered for electricity, why would power consupmion be an issue? You'll notice little power consumption difference between the two, but a big difference in performance. I had a Jayco 22FB with a 13.5 in it and I could never get it cool in the summer. My Outback 277 has a 15, and it does OK, but even with it, there are times when I wish I had more. I've never seen anyone complain about having too much AC in the Texas heat.
I'm mainly talking about the extra power taxing the extension cord, pedestal, etc. I was originally thinking of getting a low power 11k btu A/C because they only pull 9.3amps. Then realized that the standard 13.5k btu units only pull 14.9, AND I would save $150 on the unit. I hadn't really even considered jumping up to a 15k from there just because I figured that the extra 13.5 would be PLENTY, since my single 15k does marginally already.
After looking now, the 15k is $100 more, and pulls 16amps. That's only 1.1amp more than the 13.5, but if you've only got a 15amp plug, it's the difference between running and not running.
I agree it would be a huge difference if it was the only A/C in the trailer, but I'm not sure how much of a difference I would notice (if any) between 13.5k and 15k on my second unit.
Good point Bob, thx. I was thinking about the 13.5K unit but as they have the same installation requirements I will move to the 15K unit. That is what I have currently in the middle of the rig. As install of this is out of my league, do you know of any reliable/reasonable people in the Austin metro area who could do this type of job? You can PM if you prefer.
I will be doing with a 13.5k just because of power consumption. I already have a 15k that does a decent job, so I don't think I'll see any difference between an additional 13.5k or 15k. That, and $150 is $150. :)
If I was still in Austin, I'd give you a hand on this. We could do both trailers at the same time and knock it out in a weekend. Unfortunately, I'm now in Ft. Worth. Either way, I'll definitely post some pictures when I finally get around to knocking this project out.
Just extra security, I guess. It isn't really necessary, since there is a breaker on the pedestal, but it could still come in handy. Another idea and use for the breaker box is running an outlet off of it, so that you could power a heater in the winter time and not tax the main electrical system. I blow breakers a lot more in the winter than I do the summer because of the space heaters.
My initial thought was to go with a non-ducted as well, but the duct in my bedroom is right next to the vent hole, and it would be supercool to tie into the ducts because it would ford a lot more air into the back part of the trailer, which is what really needs the help. If I can't get a ducted unit to work, I am planning on making a divider to essentially cut off the front two ducts (from within the main unit) so that all of the air has to go to the back of the trailer. The front of the trailer would be kept cool by the unit in the bedroom, and the divider could easily be removed if/when I only have 30amp service.
The new Eagles in my floorplan have the option for 50amp service and a front AC. I really like the new trailers, but I think adding a second will be cheaper than trading up. :)
I haven't done this yet because I didn't get to use the camper much this summer (ended up moving to a different city, etc,etc). I am still planning on it though.
I do not believe that it is possible to tie into the existing thermostat, and I woudln't want to anyway. I plan on getting a ceiling assy that has controls built into it. I am going to try and tie it into the existing ductwork, but if I'm unable to do that, I will just use a non-ducted ceiling assy.
On the inside of the trailer, I will have a 15amp breaker, with power going to the A/C. On the outside of the trailer, I will use a plug like this, and then a heavy duty extension cord from there to the pole.
That vehicle is rated for 7,200lbs with a V8 and factory tow package per my factory manual (this weight is also stated on the trailer hitch). Do you want to tow that much TT? Probably not. I wouldn't hesitate to pull a 5k TT with my 4Runner though. I'd tow 7k lbs of lead with it as well, but a 7k TT will probably have too many other things that will magnify the 4Runner's short wheelbase (length of trailer, frontal surface, etc, etc).
I really don't think there is a difference between the two (AirLift and Firestone). If you start looking at compressors, there will be some small differences, but the actual bags and installation are pretty much the same.
Nope, only a one ton dually will tow that trailer. Might even need a MDT! :B
Seriously though, I think that truck will tow well. Just because the trailer is rated for up to 6,500lbs doesn't mean it will always be loaded that heavy either.
I'm also confused about how the air bags can level the load, but not carry any of the weight. When using airbags to level the truck (thus lifting up the rear), aren't you effectively taking weight OFF of the springs, and putting it ON the bags? Obviously, the axle and tires will be carrying the same amount of weight, but now the air bags and leaf springs are sharing the load.
The above pictured brackets are the lighter duty version. I called Reese after I bent a bracket and they sent me two heavy duty ones, free of charge. See these comparison pictures (keep in mind that the light duty bracket in the pics is bent).