RE: 08 Fleetwood Discovery Dead Batteries
Make sure that your Inverter is turned OFF, using the switch on the front panel of the unit.
On our Xantrex Freedom 458, if the inverter is left ON (standby), it will slowly drain the house batteries while in storage.
RE: Leaking hydraulic line
Dave,
Check with Alaska Hydraulics (907) 562-2217. They might be able to swedge on a new fitting without removing the hose from the RV.
I had to have one replaced at HWH a few years ago, and they had a portable swedge tool that allowed them to do it on the vehicle.
Maybe Alaska Hydraulics can do the same.
RE: USAA experience...
You want to be removed from their membership? Simply get insurance from another company, and cancel your policies. Same with your house if you have it insured with them. As far as the USAA Federal Savings Bank, if you have an account(s) with them, simply close them and have the funds sent to your new bank.
Nothing complicated about removing yourself from their membership.
Nearly 40 years of service from USAA, and never a problem like you have encountered.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
RE: Need to Replace Plug on 50Amp Shore Cord
This topic has been hashed out before. See the following link:
Nema 50A Plug wont fit 30-50A Adapter
Read on down in the thread on how I modified a NEMA 14-50P, 50A plug to fit both the standard socket, and the adapter.
RE: 50amp service verses 30amp
It may well NOT be a misprint. From my experience, it was not uncommon for a coach of this year series to only have a 30A service, even though it has a 7.5Kw diesel generator.
The key factor is that the RV had a good EMS system, which will monitor the loads, and switch off (shed) certain items, as needed, to prevent pulling current in excess of the 30A limit.
A case in point are the Discovery DP's prior to the 2002 version, which was the first to have a true 50A system.
Given my 'druthers', I would opt for a 50A system from the factory, rather than trying to kludge a 30A system into a 50A system.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
RE: Brake switch on a Freightliner chassis - where is it?
Gary,
If memory serves me correctly, when I hooked up the brake lights sensor for our Towed vehicle braking system, I had to crawl under the front of the rig.
Again, if memory serves me right, there are two white wires attached to the switch.
Bill
A Question about a Norcold 1200LRIM Refer
While doing some routine cleaning/maintenance on our 2002 1200LRIM unit, I noticed that the "flapper heater" wiring is not connected to the pins in the flapper. Closer inspection shows that evidently the 'push connector pins' were cut off, or never installed, therefore there is no way to connect the heater, unless the pins were re-installed.
My question is, since the wiring diagram shows the flapper heater being used, did Norcold make a production change, and thus eliminated the need for the heater?
The serial number of our unit is: 968274FB.
RE: 2002 Fleetwood/Freightliner Discovery...
Under the dash area, you will find a wiring bundle that has eight 'cube' relays attached. The relay that has the following wires will be the slideout relay:
TERM 87; Wire 529
TERM 30; Wire 149
TERM 85; Wire 151
TERM 86; Wire 149
Wire 529 should be the slideout switched power
Wire 149 should be the voltage to the slideout switches
The other Wire 149 and Wire 151 should activate the relay when the ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position.
Hope this info helps.
On EDIT. PM me a email address, and I will send you a PDF file of the dash wiring harness.
RE: Single Side Band CB
I never did understand that feature on the TS unless it's used on VHF for moonbounce or meteor scatter. Both stations should always tx on the correct/same frequency and adjust rx to compensate for frequency drift - on HF it really served no purpose.
I must admit, having been inactive for several years on HF, I don't know how the "rare" DX stations are doing it now, however during my 'active' years, it was not uncommon for the DX station to be working "split".
When doing so, the station would state that he was 'listning up or down x number of kc's.
This would allow the 'pile-up' to attempt to contact him, while not jamming his transmit frequency.
For this reason, I found the RIT, XIT on my TS-940SAT very useful.
AL7BB
RE: Problems with Saturn TW2 as a toad
I could be wrong, however I think on the 2000 "S" series Saturns, there are a couple of fuses that have to be pulled under the hood prior to towing.
Not to be a smart-***, but did you read the book about 'dinghy towing'?
On our 1997 SL-2, we didn't need to pull any fuses, only put the car in Neutral, key to Accessory, and Parking Brake OFF.
A friend has a later S series, and he has to pull the fuses.
RE: Walmart Overnight Parking
As there are very few RV parks along Muncho Lake, it was the Northern Rocky's Lodge.
Perhaps you think I am slamming the park, however in my mind's eye, I am only telling it like it was.
RE: freedom 458 problem
On your Discovery, I disagree with the statement that your Xantrex Freedom 458 does not charge your engine batteries when connected to shore power. Well, actually, I guess the statement is partially correct. The charging path is controlled by the RV Custom Products Battery Control Center.
When the BCC sees 12.8 Volts on the house batteries, while connected to external power, it trips the 'boost' relay, and starts charging the engine batteries. Conversely, when running the engine, and the BCC sees 12.8 volts on the engine batteries, it trips the 'boost' relay, which starts charging the house batteries.
However, the Xantrex 458 must see at least 10.5 volts from either battery bank, before it will start charging your batteries.
If your batteries are below 10.5 volts, you must charge them up to at least that voltage before the 458 will start the charge cycle.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
RE: Walmart Overnight Parking
Why is it predominately Class A`s overnighting at Walmart?
Those high payments too much to handle?
I must travel in different circles than you do. I have seen all classes of RV's overnighting in other than 'approved' RV parks.
Speaking of RV Parks, vs overnighting in a 'other than approved RV Park..
On the 9th of September, while traveling southward from Alaska, we stopped at Muncho Lake, and inquired about staying in their 'approved RV Park. The answer I was given, "no problem, we have pull-through sites that will accommodate your rig and towed vehicle.
However, our water has been turned off for the season, and the sewers have been capped also, but we do offer a dump station, and 20A electric. Only $42.00 per night.
Being tired, we elected to allow the gouging, for a nights sleep.
Now, THE REST OF THE STORY....
Pull along side the building, between the cabin with the overhanging porch roof, and the large Spruce Tree. All of about 12 feet, so no problem, however, don't cut too short, or you will rip the side out of your RV with the porch roof.
Then, when you get past the cabin, turn a sharp left between the other two cabins, on the gravel road, and pull into your site.
Managed to get to the site with no damage, only to step out of the rig into about three inches of MUDDY gravel.
OK, the shoes needed to be washed anyway. Then looked for the electrical outlet.... Where was it? all the way forward, next to the street... Good thing I had an extra 25 feet of 30A extension cord, along with the on board 50A cable. Then, I looked for the dump station. There it was on the opposite side of the intersecting road, which would require I pull out of the spot, proceed to the main highway, pull a 360° turn back into the RV park road, and be situated on the correct side of the RV. Now, the stickler is, I will have to disconnect the towed vehicle in order to pull a three-point turn with the RV, so I can again access the exit, then re-connect the towed VUE.
The next night we pulled into Grand Prairie, BC, and lo and behold, on the left side of the highway was a Wal*Mart. Stopped, and inquired with their customer service about overnighting in their parking lot.
Was welcomed with open arms, and given directions to the 'best' parking spot in the lot.
Lets see, no water, no sewer, no electric, no muddy gravel, and best of all, no $42.00 to spend the night, although we did spend at least that much inside the store.
While I have no qualms staying in a 'authorized RV Park', I do have qualms about being robbed by the park while doing so.
When I go to a restaurant and order a hamburger and frys, I refuse to pay for a full course T-Bone steak dinner.
When the RV parks put in a 'late arrival', no frills parking area, and a 'drop box' for my after hours reasonable payment, I will surely utilize them.
Having been a RV Park Owner in the past, I can well understand the owners trying to make a living, but some of them need to 'get real' with their offerings, and charges.
Now, let the flames fly.
RE: Fleetwood Discovery In Dash Air Conditioner
Guys,
Since this is a diesel pusher the OP is probably hearing the vacuum pump. Is it heard when a vent change is requested, first started, or consistently? If it is a consistent cycling of the vacuum pump there is a leak in the system. However more info is needed to help diagnose the complaint,
While I could be wrong, I believe that the DENSO HVAC system used in the Discovery does not utilize vacuum, thus no vacuum pump. According to my DENSO drawings, it uses a pair of servo motors, and no indication that vacuum is utilized.
Bill
RE: Fleetwood Discovery In Dash Air Conditioner
I am with Brett on this one.
Check the Condenser fan, under the front of your unit.
Ours kicks in and out, while running the Dash A/C, but never for just a few
seconds; more like a minute or so, when in slow going traffic.
Also, check your condenser fan when it is running. It should be blowing air from the front, and through the condenser coils, not trying to pull air from the rear of the condenser coils to the front.
Our fan was wired backwards, and I have been told that a number of other Discovery's were also wired backwards.
RE: hot water plug update
If you are talking about the drain plug in a Atwood water heater, it is a 1/2" National Pipe Thread. Granted the opening is nearly 3/4" in diameter, but it is NOT a 3/4" NPT. Pipe sizing is based on the inside diameter, and not the outside diameter.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
RE: What to expect driving to Alaska from Montana
I guess we traveled on a different set of roads two weeks ago when we traveled south from Anchorage.
Day One: Anchorage (Muldoon) to Destruction Bay, YT, 553 Miles, no damage to RV or Towed vehicle.
Day Two: Destruction Bay to Muncho Lake; 613 Miles, Rock Chip in RV windshield south of Whitehorse, on paved roadway.
Day Three: Muncho Lake to Grand Prairie, AB; 532 Miles, no damage to RV or Towed vehicle.
Day Four: Grand Prairie, AB to Granum, AB; 570 Miles, no damage to RV or Towed vehicle.
Day Five: Granum, AB to Great Falls, MT; 233 Miles, no damage to RV or Towed vehicle.
No broken axles, minimal dust inside RV/Towed Vehicle, an enjoyable 18th trip on the Alaska Highway.
Some folks should never leave their driveway. :)
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
