Does this happen on all roads, or just one in particular? On some road sections the expansion joints / bumps will be at just the right distance from one another that your setup will "porpoise" or rock up and down - but the next guy's rig might be just a little shorter or longer and will have little problem. Try slowing down a bit. I ran into this on I78 in Pennsylvania, it was incredible how the truck and trailer were moving with the dips - I thought the hitch would break off!
Similar to what Skipnchar posted, a quick way to "adjust" your setup is to move some weight around inside the trailer. I found that when I add just a little weight to the front by piling sleeping bags in the front of the trailer the ride and towing is better.
Your hitch is very adjustable. Read up on how to adjust it. It may need a major adjustment, or just something simple like using a different link when hooking up. Or it may need nothing at all, and just a small weight transfer in the TT and getting used to towing it is all you need to do.
Try different things and see how they work. And come back here to post what you do, as that may help the next guy!
I have been towing with my 2008 F250 super duty crewcab since I bought it new. It has the 3.73 rear end with 5spd torque shift automatic transmission. I tow a 21' travel trailer, weighs about 4,000lbs. I always use tow/haul mode when towing... it does not "lock out" overdrive (which is why it can get surprisingly decent highway mileage), but it does wait longer (higher revs) before shifting to the next gear, and also downshifts quicker to use engine braking.
I have not done much big hills (or especially mountains), but it tows fine with New England's constant up and down hills. Average about 10mpg towing on the highway, 15mpg empty on the highway. Biggest difference I found comparing my 5.4 to my previous 7.3 diesel is towing and using cruise control -- when on flat highway or just rolling hills I like to use cruise control, and the diesel could hold speed a lot easier, where the 5.4 needs to downshift quite a bit more to maintain speed on hills.
Must be different in the mountains, but people I've talked to with the V-10 do not get better mileage than I do. They love the power of the V-10, but laugh when asked about fuel mileage.
Fuel mileage compared to diesel when not towing: I have a friend with a hunting cabin in southern Vermont, only about 2 1/2 hours away highway driving. He owns a 2008ish Chevy with the Duramax diesel (GREAT quiet diesel, by the way!). When we both go to the cabin with our trucks not towing, it costs me a bit less in fuel. This is due to me getting decent mileage when empty on the highway, and that diesel in my area is 30-40 cents more per gallon. If we are towing, this situation is reversed.
I am very happy with the 5.4. If I was doing constant heavy towing in mountainous areas I would probably go with a diesel. If I was planning on towing heavier (or larger) than I do now but not constantly, I would go with the V-10.
Hope this helps!
People keep saying "preload"... I take that means snugging the bearings so there is no play at all? Meaning they are tight?
Which I don't do... as all my trailer maintenance guides say, tighten the castle nut, but then back it off to fit the cotter pin in it. That allows for just a very small amount of "play" when you test the wheels.
How long your battery (or batteries) is going to last is all about how you use them. We have a 21 foot travel trailer, and the "standard" 12 volt deep cycle battery (which looks like a regular car battery) can last over 5 days. This is with using battery camping lanterns in the camper, not using any camper lights unless necessary (midnight bathroom trips, lol), not using microwave oven, and just watching any and all power usage of the trailer.
If you are thinking of long term boondocking, then research solar power. A properly setup system is basically something you don't even have to think about, it just works - and it is quiet!
For just one big trip, I would lean towards a generator, especially Honda. Heck, why not get a 3,000 watt Honda that can run your air conditioner and microwave? It is impressive how quiet they are, and most times you won't have to have it running constantly.
Why do we need this label defined?
Because it's winter and we're all bored stiff and we've already talked about toilet paper, campfires, boondocking vs. drycamping, RVers vs. campers, tires, Chevy vs.Ford Vs. Dodge, ten-year rules, HOA rules, Class A only resorts, unleashed pets/children/inlaws, generators, and Montana LLC's.
We're scrapin' the bottom of the barrel now...:B
LOL! and the crazy part of this?? It is only November!!
.... My dealer talked about the pink stuff also freezing, or turning to slush. Is this a problem, or does provide enough prevention from frozen solid that keeps everything safe?
The instructions on the RV antifreeze I bought says it might get slushy in very low temps, but it is supposed to protect the pipes down to -50 degrees.
The problem with dumping grey water on site in a RV campground, is that you are in an RV campground! As others have said, what if everyone just dumped their grey water? I guess it would be a good safety measure for the kids, having all that nice soft, soapy, wet ground to run around on...
Grey water dumping at forest campsites, wilderness sites, BLM land, etc is different when basic guidelines are followed - as little as possible, away from actual site, whatever else is required by management.
It is NOT wonderful pulling into a campsite that has a nice, big, soft, soapy wet spot in the middle of it.
Friends of ours had a popup and used a 5 gallon bucket under the sink drain. Simple enough to bring it to the dump station or even just the dish washing station at the bathroom building. Yes, many (actually, most) of the campgrounds we've been to have dish washing stations setup at the bathroom buildings. I also emptied their bucket a couple times into my TT's toilet to help out. It is not a big deal for popups (or tenters, or RV'ers) to take care of their own grey water.
Again, it comes down to usage. A place like a RV campground that is busy all summer long can't have campers just dumping where ever they feel like it.
I use 6 gallons of antifreeze poured into an almost empty freshwater tanks. I do have a water heater bypass valve, so I shutout the water heater and drain it from the outside, put drain plug back in loosely. Run the water pump, start with kitchen faucet (closest to tank), run water until pink, shutoff and move to the bathroom. Run all faucets / toilet / shower / outside shower until all have pink. This also gets antifreeze into the sink traps and black and grey tanks. Go back and repeat until level in water tank is down to pump inlet. 10 winters now and this has worked fine. In Spring I fill and drain the freshwater tank multiple times to flush it and the plumbing. Flushing has worked fine for me.
I have read that it is a no-no to allow the RV antifreeze (pink stuff) in the water heater. I am not sure exactly why. So I don't know why your brother's TT would not have a bypass valve. Are your sure you have just not found it? Sometimes they are not in obvious places.
I use disposable gloves and know how to take them off correctly. Only one time in particular were they needed... a campground with a really bad dump station, where the pipe was 6 inches above ground and surrounded by gravel, not concrete. There was brown "mud" all over the place. I managed to get the outside of my stinky slinky rinsed off, but I did have brown "mud" on my gloves by the time I was finished. I was not happy with that dump station!
Yes, I routinely dump without a speck of dirt getting on my gloves (or even water sometimes), but I wear the gloves just in case. I don't worry too much about my boots... I step carefully, and usually don't eat any food that falls on the floor of my truck under the driver's seat.
At our local state park you see a large variety of dumping "styles". The dump stations there are large and well designed. The pipes are flush with concrete, and the concrete pad is large and sloped to the pipe. One time a gentleman showed up to dump and I think he had not done it before, or at least not at that type of station. He pulled up and lined up the tank drain with the sloped pad, opened up the tank drain without a stinky slinky, and let it drain out and flow down to the pipe. Afterwards he rinsed off the area thoroughly with the stations hose... by that time a Park Ranger showed up and told him to please use a stinky slinky in the future.
Another time an "experienced" camper dumped there using a hose correctly... but then removed the hose, and stuck the stations rinse hose up the campers drain pipe (from the outside) and rinsed it out with full pressure... water spraying all over the place, and he didn't wear gloves. I gently mentioned that maybe he should keep the slinky attached and use gloves... he said no problem, he is just rinsing after all the "stuff" has gone through, and he just washes his hands when he is done. To each their own!
Just make sure you keep all the cabinet doors open inside to let the heat get to the pipes. I don't know how your camper is set up, but heating the inside will probably not help the black tank, unless you have a black tank heater or a lot of insulation.
And yes, the furnace can go through a lot of propane. Can you run an extension cord out to the camper and plug in a small electric heater? A friend of mine did that with his small TT when a friend of his needed a temporary place in the winter... he said it seemed to be less expensive than propane and worked fine.
We use our laptop on batteries, charging it off the truck when we drive somewhere. Just remember to UNplug the laptop / charger / pads when the truck is not running... many of the "power ports" on vehicles are "hot", meaning they use battery power even when the engine is not running. Would not be fun to kill the battery on your truck!
When we dry camp, we mostly use battery powered camping lanterns in our TT at night. The TT lights are only used minimally. Remember to shut off your water pump when you are not using it, heck just the lighted switch for it is a small power drain (our pump has a lighted switch to show it is on). We rarely use our furnace, the furnace fan can use more power than you think. Thick quilts and sleeping bags keep us warm, and the trailer warms up quickly when making coffee and breakfast using the stove -- speaking of which, I always have at least one window and a roof vent cracked open at all times to allow fresh air in the camper.
Dry camping is a lot of fun, because it is usually in much more open and uncrowded campgrounds!