| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: New flat panel TV
May want to keep in mind that next year the newer LED TVs should come down in price. They are a like 2" slimmer than LCD's.
And the LED quality is superior to LCD tvs. The new OLED tvs coming soon have a 1,000,000 to 1 contrast ratio and a panel 3mm thick(1/8 inch)-unreal!
The only effect we have seen is in bright direct sunlight the LCD screen will turn grey/black and return to normal when out of the direct sunlight.
I'm not really up on all the technology (Is LED available now the same as OLED ??). Costco has three LED TV's available as well as many others at many other stores. I tried the 22" Viore from Costco ($299)
and am quite pleased. Yes thinner than LCD/plasma etc and possibly a better picture. LED also used about 35% less power than LCD and I see a advantage there for RV use.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/05/09 08:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: What am I missing about a furnace
we then put a heat type light in the water compartment to avoid pipe freezing.
Hi...could you please send me additional info on the above light. You can post it here or send me a PM. Where do you plug it in ?
TIA
I have heated basement compartments that contain water tanks etc. My wet bay is the shallow hook up compartment that contains all my valves etc. My wet bay is where I will sometimes hang a utility light if very cold. BTW in that situation I will not have any water hooked up etc.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/04/09 03:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Heating the Behemoth going down the road.
If it's cold enough where the dash and both furnaces aren't enough it's probably too cold for the heat pump. I have traveled in very cold temps where I needed more and ran genny and two electric heaters.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/04/09 03:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Motorhome Furniture - Unanchored
As far as furniture unanchored I have a euro lounge chair, ottoman, and two kitchen chairs. I also have a coffee maker and paper towel holder on the counter. So far nothing has moved and we have had a few hard stopps. If I hit a bridge pillar at highway speed a flying object from the rear will be the least of my worries.
Your 100% right; if your luckie enough the bridge pillar don't get you; all the flying stuff will finish the job.
Robert
I'm not going to dispute that everything should be safely secured.
To clarify- In the event of a traumatic impact as I described EVERYTHING in my coach will break free and fly regardless.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/03/09 12:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Who shuts off their water?
I'm never pressurized from city fill. I fill my tank and turn off the city fill and work from my tank with the pump from there. The pump goes off whenever we leave the coach and at bed time. My method works fine for us as we use the coach for lots of weekends and two or three long (2 week) trips. If I full timed I would just use the CG water hook up but I will always turn off if I leave the coach no matter what.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/03/09 12:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Motorhome Furniture - Unanchored
As far as furniture unanchored I have a euro lounge chair, ottoman, and two kitchen chairs. I also have a coffee maker and paper towel holder on the counter. So far nothing has moved and we have had a few hard stopps. If I hit a bridge pillar at highway speed a flying object from the rear will be the least of my worries.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/03/09 07:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: How do you keep the MH warm while driving?
Mine is difficult to keep warm while driving in very cold temps. We just returned from two weeks on the road and we were blessed with fairly mild temps but did have some colder stuff if the twenties. Both furnaces blasting and the dash heat kept it comfortable. Last year we weren't so lucky we had some single digit temps. I did have to start the genny and run one electric heater in the cockpit and one in the basement in addition to the furnaces and dash. BTW my dash heat blows scalding hot air so that's not the culprit.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/01/09 07:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: New TV Instal
My application was similar to yours so I'll share what I did. I removed one (of three) overhead cabinet boxes. Mine was the on the right where yours is the middle. Basically I was looking at the cockpit framing (2"x2" aliminum)and wires and insulation etc. I cut a 3/4" furnature grade plywood board and anchored it to frame of coach the same way the old cabinet box was anchored. Then I mounted the TV bracket to the plywood that holds the 32" LCD. There was very little room to get my hands in to finish the install so be aware of that.
My install
|
Two Jayhawks
|
12/01/09 07:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: MH fire on I-65 in AL
What a dangerous job knowing there may be a LP tank on that coach.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/30/09 07:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Best Way to Heat the RV
I have two small electric cube heaters that help prevent big swings in temps. They both have a rather crude temp adjustment (dial) but they are adequate. I'm not crazy about using a fan as I think that contributes to the drafty feeling. Frankly we only use the furnaces while driving and/or if temps dictate getting heat in the basement.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/17/09 08:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Remove Auxiliary Heater?
It must be nice to feel like you wouldn't ever need any additional heat even in the rear- your always in a warm place. I would love an additional heat source as we do a lot of cold weather driving/camping.
My vote would be to leave it there.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/17/09 07:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Very cool interior ceiling
I know I shouldn't even be looking at this
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/12/09 11:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Have U driven your class A through 20 degree weather?
I think you'll agree, "Incoming 70 mph air will however, force any amount of heat you were getting out of compartment(s) and replace it though, with 20 "something" degree air." The incoming 70 mile an hour air will certainly also more thorough penetration any orifices or other small openings.
That's basically all I was trying to say. Make sure the compartments are latched on both sides if equipped and the seals are in good shape.
You are 100% correct. Anyone who discounts the effect of wind on a "traveling" coach vs. parked probably hasn't traveled much in freezing temps. It makes a big difference with my coach with cold air being forced in openings that if parked wouldn't be an issue. I'm also aware others may have coach's that are more air tight.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/10/09 08:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Rv accident in Indianapolis
LINK
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/09/09 10:14am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Battery Charging
So your chassis batteries were dry also? I guess your charger charges your chassis batteries along with the house batteries?
Do you check your batteries very often?
BTW I have a Heart Freedom F-15 and keep the coach plugged in 7/24.
I definately have to add water from time to time or they would be dry.
My two chassis batteries don't charge with shore power so I have a Trik-L-Charger that offers a very small charge to keep them up. I will say the two chassis batteries need more water added than the house batteries.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/09/09 07:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: What is the ONE thing that your next MH will have...?
Larger fuel tank.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/09/09 06:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: What kind of ladder do you guys carry
I keep one of these in the rig:
Telescoping ladder.
It's solid, and much like a ''real'' extension ladder when deployed. It takes up little space in the basement. It doesn't weigh too much, maybe 25 lbs. or so.
On edit:
I also carry a three step step-stool for reaching the tops of windows etc. The telescoping ladder is for getting up on the roof when needed.
Adondo I sure like the looks of the telescoping ladder, what's the cost?
I have the telescoping ladder also. I've had it for almost ten years and it's a high quality ladder. Don't do what I did though mine is only a 10' model. I'm not even sure they had the taller models back when I got mine but the taller model would be the better choice. I think the price was around $200 when i got mine.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/05/09 08:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: air compressor psi for blowing out lines
have a faucet or two open when you crank it on.
I've seen this comment many times on the forum, but my owner manual does not say it. Why is this an issue? What's the difference between 40 PSI of air pressure building up for a short time, and 40 or more PSI of water pressure that's pretty much there 24/7? Are some people not using a regulator on the air line?
Only regulator I utilize is the one built in to my 10 gal Craftsman compressor and I suppose I trust it. That said I wouldn't choose to have a situation with all faucets closed while hooked to compressor.
If I need to let the compressor catch up I will disconnect air line rather than close all faucets.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/03/09 08:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: air compressor psi for blowing out lines
I use 40 psi and it's served me well for ten years and multiple winterizings every year. I do feel strongly that a air to water fill fitting is used. Another poster on a similar thread says he uses 100 psi and I think I'll experiment with higher pressure this weekend. I'm currently winterized (40 psi) and I would like to see if any additional pressure removes any more water.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
11/03/09 07:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Spare Heater
Absolutely- I carry two small electric heaters and use them daily when it's cold. If I'm paying for a 50 amp site it makes sense to use electricity to reduce the LP consumption.
|
Two Jayhawks
|
10/29/09 07:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
