With the way the weather is going you'll be above freezing and looking to open windows in a day or two...
I think the biggest issue with heating a small somewhat sealed space is condensation - people create a tremendous amount of humidity, made worse if you cook on a propane flame.
'cause I was curious, I did some math. Basic rate for electricity is apparently 11.13 cents per KWH where you are, you used roughly 70 Kw in 9 hours, for about $8. The 24 hour equivalent would be about $21. If you did that for a month that would be $640. 5 heating months, $3200.
I was curious because I will be heating my shop with a 5500 watt electric heater this winter, this gives me a guideline to what I'll be spending each day that I turn the heat on. Sure hope it warms up where you are, or you don't need to live in your camper full time!
Go and read here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum107/ They talk a lot about "bulletproofing" and such. Search on "oil cooler" and "EGR cooler". Basically (I have one so I have personal experience) the 6.0 is a good engine. It was the last generation to use high pressure oil to power the injectors, so it doesn't have issues with high pressure fuel pumps. It has a poorly designed oil cooler which can clog with sediment and fall-out from coolant. When it does it blocks the flow of coolant to the EGR cooler, which then overheats and fails. When that happens, the EGR cooler lets coolant into the intake manifold which causes the head gaskets to fail. If you know all this stuff it becomes childs play to monitor the engine to alert you to know if this is starting to happen and you can do the maintenance required to avoid having a problem.
Other than that, it's like any modern engine, particularly modern diesel engines. It's too bloody complicated and computer controlled to be really considered reliable. A sensor can go in any engine and leave you on the side of the road for the want of a $10 part.
My recommendation is buy the 6.0 if you are prepared to learn about it, maintain it and understand that you might need to fix it at some point, AND you need the towing power, load capacity and fuel economy of a diesel. If you need the power and don't want the fuss, look for a nice V10 gas engine - downside is far worse fuel economy.
For me the answer comes down to weight. A given battery is going to weigh a certain amount per amp/hour per cell. A deep cycle battery with a decent amp-hour per cell rating is going to weigh around 75 lbs for a 6 volt battery and 150 lbs for a 12 volt battery. I have both, and I much prefer installing the 6 volt batteries...
I have 6v deep cycle US2200 at 232 AH, and some 8D 12V start batteries (not deep cycle) at 245 AH. I need to stretch and do deep breathing before I install the 8D's...
A 12V furnace needs a lot of current to run the fan. You need one or perhaps two deep cycle RV batteries, around 100 amp hours each ( the ATV battery is probably around 20 amp hours) and a good 45 amp or so charger/converter to keep them charged. You've got around 20% of the DC power capability that you need. Now, temperature and how warm you like it will cause this to vary around a bit, but basically your idea is right, you are just under-sized to make it work.
I went with a 30 amp system for much the same reason as you are. People are tending to go with 50 amp for a number of reasons - because it's available at many parks now, because they can, because it leaves options open for upgrades later, because it opens options for 240 volt appliances. For me, I had a 3000 watt inverter generator, I have a 4000 watt inverter/charger, I have 30 amp cords, so it was logical to go with 30 amp.
Your sketch shows a logical layout that I am going presume a few things about. First comment is the use of a simple plug option to switch between the shore power and the generator. It's functionally a manual transfer switch, and a better way to go would be a 30 amp automatic transfer switch. Why better? Simply because it can be automatic - shore power is on unless there is no shore power and the generator is on - and because cord plugs, particularly the big 30 amp ones, do wear out and have been known to cause arcing and over-heating when they get worn. Second, the "cam switch" is basically just a manual transfer switch again. It switches live and neutral from the plug (shore and generator) or the inverter. I am going to presume that it also can be set up so that your converter/charger can never be powered from the inverter, or you'll get the inverter trying to charge the batteries from the batteries, which doesn't work for long... I would use the Progressive Dynamics panel, I used one myself and it is a fairly decent charger with an AC breaker distribution panel and a legally separate DC fused distribution panel. A little light on AC breaker positions but you can get double breakers to increase the number of branch circuits.
My recommendation is to use automatic transfer switches wherever you can, but the manual option always works too. Always keep track of neutral and ground, and only bond neutral to ground at the source of the power, be that the shore power, the generator or the inverter. Chassis ground is always chassis ground and is common to everything.
The point of a converter is that it supplies a constant voltage to power the accessories in the RV, and oh by the way also charges the battery. It's set up as a constant voltage, variable current power source, in other words. Modern converters will run at a constant 13.6 volts, for example, and vary the current from rated output to zero depending on the load and battery condition. Other converters can be put into a battery charge mode, where they can do a three stage (bulk, absorbtion, maintenance mode) charge then revert to converter mode. A battery charger makes a poor converter, as you've noticed, because it's designed to optimize simple battery charging and not constant voltage supply of power to RV accessories.
Modern 4 stroke engines just aren't that sensitive to very small variations in oil rated viscosity. The difference between a CJ rated 10W-30 and a 15W-40 is very small, and many oils could probably be rated either way, since the window for the rating is fairly wide. If I wanted to put the best oil in, I would pick a synthetic 5W-40 like Rotella T6, unless I was running in very cold ambient temps when I would pick a 0W-40 full synthetic. With a HEUI injection system most times it's more critical to change the oil on time.
If the smaller tire has sufficient headroom in the load rating, then there is no particular downside to the smaller tire. It will wear faster, give a slightly harsher ride and the trailer will sit an inch or two lower. If you are OK with all that, buy the smaller tire. I would.
I use a Rubbermaid tote as the drain pan, and pump or pour it back into the 5 gallon pails it comes in. I use a pail and a half per change, so I have a spare pail so I have two to put in the back of the truck to take to the transfer station, where I just pour it into the waste oil container. I would have a hard time picking a 7 gallon container up to pour it out, so this works for me just fine.
The one thing on diesels that can be bad is if an injector gums up and seizes. If the engine has been run annually, or every several months, I wouldn't worry about it overly much. I leave mine to sit for sometimes up to a year at a time, I just check the injectors, crank it and change the oil.
Now if it had 20K miles in the first year and none since, I would check it very carefully.
Trailer axle hubs are notorious for being ignored, and getting improper maintenance when it is done. So, they put external grease nipples on and people can just pump them full of grease. Yes, the end result is more grease in there than is really needed, but it is better than not enough grease. You can look up the greasing instructions on the axle manufacturers web site or follow the old school rules of thumb - bottom line if you're doing maintenance and do it right, you'll be good to go.
There are three basic types of electric bikes, and they are very popular in Ontario due to not needing a license to drive, while you do need a special license for a little gas engine scooter. You have the add-on type, the bicycle type and the scooter type. Each has advantages, each has disadvantages. I immediately think of the scooter type, since that is what most people have where I used to live. Examples: http://www.scooteretti.com/ Note that even the scooters have pedals, making them technically a person-powered vehicle, hence the no license required. In Ontario if you remove the pedals it then becomes a motorcycle, believe it or not.
Range is the big question, and that comes down to power and weight. You need to investigate the weight carrying capacity of the bike and get one that suits your personal needs. The light "bike" type units have a big advantage in weight but usually have smaller batteries to take away that advantage. Power in the battery is key, so look at the voltage of the battery and it's amp-hour rating, multiply the two to get watt-hours available and remember that you need to use around half the available to not harm the battery.
I think they are a great option, but can be very pricey. http://smartdirect.ca/smart-electric-bike
Hyw 58 is "interesting", to say the least. I did it once towing a 28ft car hauler, and it was marginal. My buddy did it with a 48 ft fifth wheel car hauler and was pretty pissed at me for suggesting the route. Mind you tractor trailers take it so it's doable. It's basically switch-backs on a two lane road up the side of the mountain. 220 north to Roanoke is OK, I64 to I79 or I81 north are fine. (I64 right at I79 was a steep grade).
Where are you going to the north? I used to race at VIR at Danville a lot, I had a number of routes I would take, all basically starting and ending at Buffalo NY
Usually a hot-skin "tingle" is going to be traced back to a poor ground connection - in the cable, in the plug, the socket or the panel wiring. I've had it be an outside outlet that had some corrosion in the plug socket.
My word the internet is an amazing place. Found this in three minutes:
Here are the specifications for your Lance 480. I found this in my "Lance library" going back as far as 1984.
Lance Model 480
Floor Length: 9’6”
Width Overall: 93”
Height (Interior): 6’ 6½”
Fresh Water Tank (Gal.): 33
Gray Water Tank (Gal.): 11
Black Water Tank (Gal.): 12
LPG Tanks (no./Gal.): 2/5
Dry Weight: 2,195
Length Overall: 15’ 5”
Center of Gravity: 64”
Dry Weight: 2,275
Length Overall: 16’ 9”
Center of Gravity: 68”
The center of gravity of your unloaded camper is 68 inches from the rear of the camper. That means it`s 46 inches from front of the bed. The axle on that truck is 34 inches from the lip of the bed, so the center of gravity of the camper will be a full foot behind the axle. That means it will be very dangerous to drive, will violate the factory Ford load guidelines and all of that boring safety stuff. So no, the camper won`t fit safely on that truck.
If you want to, you can invest in a generator power panel. It's very common around here, most places have one. It's just a sub-panel with critical circuits wired to it, fed from the main power panel with three breakers mechanically linked so you can switch to the generator. It's a manual transfer switch, basically, that switches the two power leads and neutral to be fed from the generator. I use a Yamaha 3000 watt generator, which is 120V only, and just feed both live lines from the 120V (I have no 240 volt loads in my house, aside from the dryer which isn't fed from this power panel). The keys are: manual or automatic transfer switch for both live leads and neutral, generator must bond neutral to ground, and load management so you don't overload the generator.
disconnecting the battery will protect the battery, which doesn't need protecting. The sensitive electronics are still connected to chassis ground, so if you are going to be putting stray voltage on the chassis, they are at risk. If you can't take the hitch off, make sure you have a super good ground for the welder, on clean metal and the cable and clamp are perfect. And hope...