Stick with Artic Fox or Nash! Then you will need to do some additional modifications to make it truly four seasons. Unless you want to spend lots and lots of money, and were talking in the hundreds of thousands. Also, you can check some of the toy haulers. While spendy, many do come ready for artic type conditions (think snowmobilers), with heated holding tanks, valves, etc...
Search the site and you will find lots of information.
Good luck and have fun!
p.s. Personally, having been to both factories, I would not recommend the Wind River or Timber Ridge over the Nash/Artic Fox.
That's a pretty good deal. I just paid $969 for my Honda 2000i OTD. But, same as you, have purchased six ATV's from my dealer, so they are very friendly whenever i'm in town. In fact, this dealer has made me a deal on everything purchased... Which is why I keep coming back. As I used to say when I was in the service industry, I would rather make $5 ten times, then $25 once.
Wow, lots of great advise here, so thank you all.
Yes, I was aware heat was an issue, hence why I got the larger yellow camco puck type. My old stock black puck got pretty hot when plugged in, especially when running the ac. I guess it's time to make another investment to the dogbone style and I will keep the camco puck for a spare.
By the way, my EU2000i runs my 13.5 Dometic AC just fine, especially since I installed the SPP6E capacitor and changed the oil to full synthetic. I have run three lights and the water pump with the compressor cycling on high in 90 deg weather for a few hours and it works great.
Thanks again everyone.
I have a standard 30amp unit that came with the standard black adapter for the Power cord. I recently bought a Honda 2000i generator to run my AC. I had noticed previously, that the Stock black adapter had gotten pretty hot when so when I ordered a hard start kit I also bought a new yellow Camco 15 to 30 adapter. Then I read this on another thread "Get a dogbone type 15/20amp to 30amp RV connection adapter though. Forget about the little black plastic adapters".
My question is why? I don't mind spending Another $25 or so, but is it necessary to get the dog bone style and is my bigger yellow adapter ok?
I cant answer your question specifically, but search the forum as I remember reading about this previously and some posters were talking about getting quality paint jobs down in Mexico for around a third the price.
WHS I disagree as I drive washboard roads all the time and a certain amount of speed is your friend. Drive the speed that feels the smoothest in your TV and all will be well as I've ridden in a trailer (horse trailer) and ythe trailer rides better than the TV.
nevadanick, while you may technically be correct and for your skill it may be ok, but thats the difference, experience! I was living in Idaho when I was young and our town did not even have paved streets... I learned how to drive on gravel roads and we used to even go out for "wheat field training", where we would literally mash the throttle to floor and go wild, with the ultimate goal being to learn control. I was doing this when I was 12. So, for me running down a gravel road at 40, 50 or even 60 mph is not that big of a deal... However! I would never recommend that to someone who does not have the same level of gravel driving experience. Honestly, thats akin to telling somebody who has towed a small travel trailer that they have all the experience they need to drive a semi with 80,000lbs on a 53' trailer.
So again, I would recommend to all those unfamiliar with gravel to slow down, speed is not your friend, especially towing.
Is it a two piece driveline? I know that we used to see a lot of heavy-loaded rigs destroy the center bearing,
Do you know why it would do this? Flexing of the frame?
What was happening only occured when truck was over-loaded, it would change the angle from the rear piece to the carrier bearing. Consequently, when you take off all that weight is transfered forward until it finally meets the weak link and bammo... The angle was actually twisting the bearing in the rubber bushing to the point that it would bind. We finally discovered the problem when I had the customer bring in the truck fully loaded. See, when empty there was no problem, with just the trailer also no problem (which we weighed twice). No, it only occured when he loaded up gear for two weeks of camping with a family of five, including a quad and firewood in the bed of the truck. At that point he was way overloaded. How we discovered this was by interviewing him closely and we discovered that the problem only occured during certain trips, when he had the whole family on a long vacation. It was then that we found out how much additional items he loaded. With just the trailer normally loaded, he was within specs.
Have you added anything lately that has increased your load?
First off - Please disregard the advise about traveling fast! That is just a recipe for disaster, especially if you are towing. The other advise is right on.
As a regular runner of the back roads, the only way to safely navigate them in your RV is to slow down, watch the road and pick your spot. Then just relax, enjoy the adventure and whenever you can, pull over and take a breather (this more than anything will make the trip better).
Is it a two piece driveline? I know that we used to see a lot of heavy-loaded rigs destroy the center bearing, which acts just like what your describing before it grenades. The other possibility you have already discussed.
I would recommend taking making two appointments with the dealer. First to bring it in when loaded, so they can diagnose the problem. Second to make the repair. I did stuff like this all the time when I was a service manager.
And be careful, because decals that are that old are much harder to remove, plus if you are not replacing them exactly, then you will also leave impressions, as the paint underneath the decal will not be as faded.
I removed all but the side stripes and one logo on the back within a week of purchase. The striping is now starting to fade and peel some, so all I have to do is replace that. Much easier than the big decals.
Please show me where RAM backed out?????
I agree Ford did because they did not have a leg to stand on. GM did because some of their lighter duty trucks ratings went down but their HD line was fine. Like I said I got it from the horses mouth that RAM already meets the spec.
@Cummins, please go back and read what I wrote.
Actually sounds pretty exciting to me!
I was up in the mountains last year, about 2 miles from the RV when I had a similiar experience. Only it lasted for 30 minutes and was solid lighting and thunder, it just didn't stop! We had two major blasts, so close that the ground shook and my hair stood up, it was really cool.
Gotta love nature!
Actually, non of the big three are using the new J2807 ratings.
Ford says they won't, yet... They said once their new models come out in few years, then they will invest in the testing.
Dodge says they don't have to, because they feel their in-house testing is better.
GM did the testing and already released the revised J2807 numbers, but when Ford and Dodge said they weren't, they pulled them back. What's funny is GM only lost 2-300 pounds... Going from like 10,700 to 10,500 in some models.
Unfortunately, Toyota is the only mfg advertising the new SAE rating and have been for a while now...
And sometimes you need to be smart enough to pick your battles.
I have been in two camping areas where drunks caused some issues. The first was in a remote dunes camping area. I was already in bed when a bunch of teenagers started pouring in around midnite or so, they hooped and hollered every time a pickup load went by... Around 2AM or so, they were riding quads and bikes like crazed people, right by my camper! Since I was out of cell range, I decided to be smart and just hunkered down. I am not stupid enough to try and make a bunch of drunks behave... Not gonna happen. And I am not stupid enough to go out with gun and threaten them. By the next morning they were all gone... So I just slept in and enjoyed the rest of my time there.
Second time was a little nicer campground. I was woken by 3 drunk idiots at the camp next to mine. They were yelling, swearing and being really beligerant. I went out once and yelled at them, basically told them to shut up or else. Well, pretty soon they were at it again, so this time I called the park service and they came out and warned them. What was good, is the guy left, but not too far and just waited. Sure enough, the drunks started in again and within ten minutes the park people were back and that was that. They were gone within a few minutes. I stood by the whole time while this happened.
I have no problem confronting people, but as I have learned in my job at a state prison, sometimes you need to be smart about it. I don't want to get beat up or have to shoot somebody just to prove a point.
And I would also like to give a big kudos to the man that stepped in!
Couple of variables here.
First, you better check the park regulations and make sure other campers, should there be any, are not going to be disturbed.
Second is the exhaust. As Bob stated above, you could really give yourself a nasty headache (at the least) if it you start sucking in the fumes.
As far as running it, if neither of the above will be an issue, then personally I don't see an issue.