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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I interrupt this solar panel thread for a little video I shot last week after getting the new and improved sofa-bed wired up. I'm holding the camera while Tiger works the switch that powers the sofa-bed.
http://youtu.be/PL4qhuY19Es
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WVvan
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05/19/13 09:58am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Run the wires for the solar panel through the roof to check their fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-091-mj.jpg
Looks good.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-093-mj.jpg
The roof is slightly narrower at the rear of the van. This caused the outer edge of the rear most set of brackets to almost overhang the roof. Take both of these brackets and shorten the angle iron slightly to correct it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-095-mj.jpg
The mounting holes in the roof were drilled with the brackets in their current configuration. I'll have to remove the brackets for painting and was worried that all the holes wouldn't line up again if the brackets got mixed up. To prevent that I took a file and made a small notch on the angle iron of the three brackets on the drivers side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-094-mj.jpg
Remove all the brackets. Weld a small metal square over the open end of each tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-101-mj.jpg
In the last posting I mentioned about where two wires cross between the panels. To protect those wires in the open space between the panels weld a piece of 1" angle iron to the bracket end closest to them.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-100-mj.jpg
All done. At this point used a grinding wheel to round the corners on all the angle iron pieces.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-102-mj.jpg
Get out my box of painting supplies.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-103-mj.jpg
Cover the brackets with the same NAPA paint and clearcoat that I use on the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-104-mj.jpg
If I'm going to paint the brackets, might as well paint the solar panels. One reason for painting them is I didn't like the way the black panels looked on top of the white van. The other reason is I'm betting most people will not really notice them thinking that they are nothing more than those white racks you see on work vans all the time.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-108-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-109-mj.jpg
While waiting for the different paint coats to set up it gave me free time to do some cleaning under the penthouse top. Something I'd been neglecting up till now.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-058-mj.jpg
Also clean and treat the penthouse rubber edge gasket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-061-mj.jpg
continued -
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WVvan
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05/14/13 08:48am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Warning: I wrote in the last posting about drilling through the penthouse top. Don't know if this is a common problem with epoxied fiberglass but after drilling one of the holes I reached up underneath the top to pull off a stray fiber and it sliced into the tip of my finger like a razor blade. Not that bad of a wound, compared to some others on this project, but it did surprise me.
Next up was to figure out the electrical wiring. With the two panels the first question was to connect them in series or in parallel. In series the panel output voltage is doubled but in parallel the amps is doubled. According to the solar controller manual doubling the voltage would be outside it's recommended range while doubling the amps was not, so in parallel they shall be.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-062-mj.jpg
Now think how to route the wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-063-mj.jpg
The panels come with these MC4 connectors. If I cut these off it would void the warranty so I bought a pair of extra cables instead. Those I can cut up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-065-mj.jpg
Found this out the hard way. To disconnect the connectors on the panel slide the shield out of the way then take two small screwdrivers and squeeze them on each side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-067-mj.jpg
The connectors will pop apart.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-068-mj.jpg
There will be a bunch of cable slack underneath the panel that needs to be organized so it doesn't hang down. I'll be using nylon anchors and zip ties to keep the wires in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-070-mj.jpg
Didn't want to trust the foam tape that came with the anchors so scraped it off and replaced it with VHB tape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-064-mj.jpg
Each of the two cables I bought had a male and female end. I cut and spliced them so that one wire had two male ends and a uncapped wire while the other had two female ends and one uncapped wire. These would be my two parallel cables. Used wire nuts where I joined the wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-072-mj.jpg
Then covered the wire nut with heat shrink.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-075-mj.jpg
This will be the wire route. Notice where the two wires cross between the panels. I'll come back to that.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-076-mj.jpg
So how to get the wires through the penthouse top? If I was to drill straight down through so that the hole is outside the canvas then the wires would extend upwards outside the edge of the solar panels. Don't much care for how that would look beside it would be more apt to leak. Have to think of something else. Time to bring out my most important tool. My thinking stool.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-022-mj.jpg
So I'm sitting there thinking, do a lot of that, and looking around the garage when I see this on a shelf. A nylon rod. Gives me an idea.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-078-mj.jpg
Cut off a section of the rod. Drill two holes in the rod. Each a little larger than the diameter of the electrical wire on the parallel cables.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-079-mj.jpg
Bisect the rod at a 45 degree angle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-080-mj.jpg
Find a piece of scrap wood the same thickness as the roof. Knew that roof measurement I took earlier would come in handy. Hold the half rod tight against the plywood and use it as a drill guide.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-084-mj.jpg
Slide one of uncapped end wires through the half rod and plywood to see where it exits on the underside. The small tip of the half rod lies almost directly above where the wire exits.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-086-mj.jpg
Using that as a guide decide where is the best place to put the half rod on the roof. For this picture I have the van turned around from it's usual orientation so this is actually the drivers side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-082-mj.jpg
Cover the bottom of the half rod with VHB tape and stick it to the penthouse roof. Use it as a guide to drill through the penthouse top. Really took my time with this since I was drilling at such a shallow angle
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-088-mj.jpg
After using both holes in the half rod as drilling guides you can see that the two holes line right up with the bolt hole underneath the roof. Really glad I got that right. Epoxy treated these holes just like I did with the bolt holes.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-090-mj.jpg
continued.
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WVvan
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05/13/13 08:21am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Thanks for the epoxy tip. I don't think in this instance it's that critical but good to know.
Solar Panels continued -
The brackets that will go between the two panels will have to be made a bit different. Instead of the panel being bolted to holes drilled through the square tube I'll weld 1" angle iron to each side of the tube. Then the mounting holes will be drilled through the angle iron. Figure out what will be the best length and placement for the angle iron.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-035-mj.jpg
Tack weld on the angle iron and check how it fits.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-037-mj.jpg
Weld up the two middle brackets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-038-mj.jpg
At this point I realized there was simpler design for the bracket. Instead of adding a length of angle iron on each side I could have just added it to one side and mounted the second panel through the tube like I'd done with the outside brackets. Since I'd already welded on the angle iron went ahead with the original plan. One advantage of the wider bracket is that the larger gap between the panels should help with cooling. Solar panels become less efficient as they heat up so the cooler the better. Might be better this way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-045-mj.jpg
Get all the mounting holes drilled.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-046-mj.jpg
Bolt on the four brackets to one of the panels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-047-mj.jpg
Put the panel with brackets on the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-048-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-049-mj.jpg
Bolt the other two end brackets to the second solar panel and put it on the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-051-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-052-mj.jpg
Bolt the second panel to the middle bracket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-053-mj.jpg
Using a couple bolts and the first set of holes drilled through the top to position the front panel. Didn't tighten down the panel so it could be moved a bit. Lined up the two panels so that they where in the middle of the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-054-mj.jpg
Double check then check again. When I'm absolutely sure I got it right start to drill the other four mounting holes using the hole in the bracket as a drill guide. Just start the holes but don't go all the way through the top since it's down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-055-mj.jpg
Remove the panels from the top of the van then raise the penthouse. Finish drilling the holes through the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-057-mj.jpg
continued
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WVvan
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05/10/13 09:01am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels
I purchased two Kyocera KD185GX solar panels a while ago not thinking it would have taken me as long as it did to get to this stage in the build. In the interim they have just been sitting around getting dusty while the prices for solar panels have been dropping. D'Oh.
The panels are each 52-3/4" x 39". There are four mounting holes on each long side for 5/16" bolts. According to the installation instructions these are the only holes to be used for bolting down the panels. If I was to run bolts straight through those holes into the penthouse top they would penetrate into the living space. That raises the possibility of a leak inside the van. Have to think of something else.
I've read that Sportsmobile installs their solar panels by using 3M VHB tape to stick the panels to the roof. I gave that some thought but decided against it. One person has already posted about how their panels flew off the roof while traveling on the interstate when the VHB tape failed.
So I'll have to come up with some way to bolt them to the roof but outside of the canvas penthouse. This is the view with the penthouse raised. You're looking up underneath penthouse top with the canvas on the left.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-007-mj.jpg
Here's a closer view. Notice the ridge to the right of where the canvas meets the penthouse top. This marks the edge of the wood reinforcement that's embedded inside the fiberglass when the penthouse top was constructed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-006-mj.jpg
If I'm going to run any bolts through the penthouse top they will have to be aligned so that they are outside the canvas but penetrate the wood reinforcement for strength. That gives me about 1-1/2" to work with on each side of the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-004-mj.jpg
I'll insert a warning disclaimer here. From what I've read the different Sportsmobile franchises use different types of penthouse tops. Also the tops have changed over the years. So everything I'm writing here only applies to my top. Yours might be totally different.
Measured the penthouse on top and it's about 56" across but it's edges are not straight so the width varies. With the panels mounted cross-wise that leaves about a 1-1/2" for a custom made bracket to extend beyond the edge of the solar panel. This way the panel is bolted to the bracket and the bracket is bolted through the penthouse top.
Make the brackets out of 1" square steel tube. Two of the brackets will be shared between two panels so I'll need six total. Made them 14" long which allows me to cover both mounting holes but still have extra room for moving them back and forth for the final fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-008-mj.jpg
The panels will be bolted through the square tube but I'll add a piece of 2" angle iron to the end for the bolt through the top. Here I'm eyeballing the angle iron along with a 5/16" bolt trying to guess what would be the best width. Settled on 1-1/2"
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-010-mj.jpg
The six brackets with the angle iron welded to the ends. You can't see it in this picture but the angle iron is positioned so that the bottom edge of the square tube will be raised above the level of the roof. This is to provide clearance for the bolt heads that will extend through the tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-011-mj.jpg
With the brackets made I had a better idea of the dimensions involved. Double checked my figures then did the deed. Drilled through the roof from underneath.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-014-mj.jpg
Took my time. This drill bit has a sharp point. When the point started to protrude I stopped drilling from underneath.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-016-mj.jpg
Finished drilling the hole from above. Did this as a precaution to prevent splitting on the fiberglass top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-017-mj.jpg
No backing out now.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-018-mj.jpg
Measured the thickness of the top at the hole. Thought the info might come in handy later. It did.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-019-mj.jpg
Using the distance from the front edge of the top as a guide I drilled a corresponding hole on the opposite side of the top. Now to get the distance between them. Put a bolt thought each hole and measured.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-021-mj.jpg
Transpose that measurement to the brackets on the solar panel. It should be 55-9/16" to the outside edge of the bolts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-023-mj.jpg
Use clamps to hold the brackets tight to the solar panels. Reach in under the lip of the panel and use a sharp screw to etch the outline of the mounting holes onto the bracket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-026-mj.jpg
Drill two holes in the bracket. Use them to bolt the bracket to the panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-025-mj.jpg
Check the measurements again. Etch the other bracket and drill it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-029-mj.jpg
Bolt both brackets to the solar panel and hoist it to the top of the penthouse to check my measurements.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-031-mj.jpg
Well I'll be. The holes line up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-033-mj.jpg
At this point it was getting late and it was supposed to rain the next day. So before quitting I got the remaining epoxy bought for waterproofing the greywater tank.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-022-mj.jpg
Mixed up a small batch and used that to coat the inside of the bolt holes. If water should get into the wooden core of the penthouse top it could cause problems. Hopefully this will prevent it. Did this three times for each hole I put through the top. Allowed the epoxy to fully set up between applications.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-059-mj.jpg
Covered the two holes with duck tape.
continued.
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WVvan
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05/05/13 10:25am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: What does your RV forum name mean?
I live in West Virgina and I own a van. While that's true I actually thought of it as a play on the term "VW Van".
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WVvan
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04/28/13 11:13am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I think Hal has you under its spell!
Bill I think you might be on to something. Last thing I clearly remember was Hal saying "Look deep into my EYE".
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/download/file.php?avatar=3402_1249064857.jpeg
Electrical System continued
The parts I ordered came in. Here is the second fuse holder installed on the breaker panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-37-mj.jpg
This is a 50 amp circuit breaker for the output of the solar controller. Since the automotive style fuses I'm using have an upper limit of 30 amps this separate breaker was needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-38-mj.jpg
The breaker panel installed. Ignore the rats nest of wires on the right.Haven't attached them yet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-48-mj.jpg
Close up of the panel. At the top a 1/0 gauge wire runs from the positive battery terminal to the shunt resistor. On the load side of the 150 amp circuit breaker is another 1/0 gauge wire that runs to the positive terminal on the inverter. This heavy duty wire gauge is what was recommended in the inverter manual. It will be by far the biggest electrical draw on the house batteries.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-47-mj.jpg
Also attached to the load side of the main breaker are wires to the two fuse holders and the output from the solar controller. The battery separator isn't yet wired up.
This is the view looking down on the back of the battery charger (top) and the inverter under it. You can see the other end of the 1/0 gauge wire (red) that runs to the main breaker. Next to it is a black 1/0 gauge wire that runs to the negative terminal on the house batteries. I've wired the battery charger output to the inverter terminals with a inline 20 amp fuse. Since the inverter and battery charger shouldn't be in service at the same time I thought it was OK for them to share terminals.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-43-mj.jpg
I don't much like how close the opposing terminals are on the back of the inverter so after taking the picture I completely covered the positive terminal with electrical tape.
Inverter powered up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-45-mj.jpg
This is the main grounding bolt. It's a copper bolt with a copper washer and you can see I removed the paint below the washer so to get a good contact with the van body. The black wire is a 4 gauge that runs to a negative terminal on the house battery.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-14-mj.jpg
Underneath the van this bolt is attached to a copper grounding strap that runs to the van frame.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-65-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-80-m.jpg
The red wire on the grounding bolt runs to this terminal strip on the back of the breaker panel. I trimmed a copper sheet to make common connections across one side of this terminal strip. This is my grounding terminal block.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-39-mj.jpg
The 1/0 gauge wires are very stiff. I've set up the breaker panel so that after unbolting the two 1/0 gauge wires it can be freed up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-41-mj.jpg
So it's easier to work on.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-50-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-49-mj.jpg
Here I've started sorting and hooking up the rats nest.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-53-mj.jpg
Lesson learned the hard way. Label each wire. Now just have to remember to not lose the notebook I've written them in.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-51-mj.jpg
On to the shore power. I'd previously installed an outside plug that ran to a temporary inside socket. Now for something a little more permanent.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-35-mj.jpg
GFI output.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-36-mj.jpg
Next up the van's main 110 AC distribution panel. You can see it at the bottom of this picture.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-04-mj.jpg
Yeah, It's a power strip. I did spend extra to get a name brand. It's a Tripp Lite with a 15 amp breaker and it comes with a $1000 equipment replacement guarantee. Still made in China though.
Here's how my AC power is set up. The AC outlets in the van are wired to plugs. They will all be plugged into this power strip. When I'm camping and away from shore power, which is most of the time, the power strip is plugged into the inverter which provides my 110 AC.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-05-mj.jpg
If I'm using shore power then I just unplug the power strip from the inverter and plug it into the GFI output that's wired to the outside. Very simple.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-06-mj.jpg
Notice that the second GFI outlet is taken up by the plug for the battery charger. This way the battery charger is only energized when the van is hooked to shore power.
As usual I had to have the supervisor sign off on my work before I could quit for the day.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-09-mj.jpg
Next up. Solar Panels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-12-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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04/26/13 08:51am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I had always intended to have a central electrical system but couldn't come up with a satisfactory plan. The van has house power but it was always wired up in a temporary fashion.
You can see from this photo taken while repairing the fuel pump that I had a nice rats nest of wires going to the temporary fuse panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-05-mj.jpg
It was while doing that repair I had one of my flashes of inspiration and suddenly knew how everything would fit together.
Here are some of the main elements of the electrical system. On the left is the inverter. The yellow box is the battery charger and the white one is the solar controller.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-17-mj.jpg
Along with these I'll need a main breaker and fuse panel. So where to mount everything? I decide to make an acrylic breaker panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-03-mj.jpg
It's constructed it to be mounted on the front of the battery rack. It will be bolted to the frame and screwed to the floor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-04-mj.jpg
Start to populate the panel. This is the main breaker/on-off switch. Next to it is a shunt resister that's used to measure current flow to and from the battery bank.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-15-mj.jpg
Next add the first of two fuse holders on the front of the panel and on the back side a terminal strip for grounds.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-16-mj.jpg
That's a good start to the panel but I had to order more parts. Now what about the other components. Why not stack them?
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-18-mj.jpg
Get some 1/8" thick flat steel and take measurements.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-19-mj.jpg
Then start cutting and bending.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-20-mj.jpg
Looks about right.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-21-mj.jpg
Repeat.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-22-mj.jpg
Create mounting holes for each box.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-23-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-25-mj.jpg
Clean them up then paint.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-27-mj.jpg
Check how they will fit together.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-32-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-33-mj.jpg
See how it works in the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-29-mj.jpg
Screw them into place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-34-mj.jpg
continued.
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WVvan
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04/22/13 08:32am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I'm happy to say that Hal is back on the road. Along with the new alternator it needed a new fuel pump.
To be absolutely sure my starting problem was the pump I jumpered the fuel pump relay. This provides power to the pump without running the engine.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-01-mj.jpg
This is the connector for the fuel pump that's located under the van in the area of the fill hose.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-02-mj.jpg
With the jumper in place I would plug this in and out and listen. Could hear the pump "thump" but not run. After doing this a few times the pump would start to run. Time for a new pump.
I bought this Delphi fuel pump at NAPA. They didn't have it in stock so had to order it a day ahead of time. The pump was around $150. Need a new strainer along with the pump. With taxes it all came to $191.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-08-mj.jpg
The pump included a new fuel pump assembly gasket, pump sleeve, short length of hose with clamps and adapter plug.
I'd removed the fuel pump assembly once before which was the good news. The bad news was I'd laid flooring in the van since then over the access hatchway. So had to choose the lesser of two evils. Either remove everything and or do some digging. Decided to dig.
This is the after picture. Used a angle grinder with a cutting wheel to do the deed. Could have been a bit more careful but nothing I can't fix.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-06-mj.jpg
Now check this out. I'm taking this as a sign I'm living right. Notice the edge of the hatch. It is just shy of being under the house battery rack. If that had been a couple of inches in the other direction this job would have gotten a lot harder. I'd love to say I did that on purpose but it's pure happenstance.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-16-mj.jpg
Here's the view after I removed the floor hatch. The conduit for the kitchen power is running across the top of the fuel pump assembly. I was able to just move that out of the way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-15-mj.jpg
Removed the fuel pump assembly and brought it to the work bench. Here's the original fuel pump. First thing remove the bracket the holds the pump.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-09-mj.jpg
Cut the rubber hose that connects the top of the pump to the assembly and slide out the pump. It fits into that "U" shape at the bottom of the assembly.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-10-mj.jpg
Unplug the old pump and plug in the new adapter. Make sure the plug locks in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-11-mj.jpg
Remove the old hose from the metal outlet line. Slide the new pump into it's included sleeve. Mount the pump into the assembly and use that to measure the new hose. It will need to be trimmed before installation. Here I've already cut the hose and installed one of the screw hose clamps.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-12-mj.jpg
Install the new strainer on the bottom of the pump. I almost messed up this step by not pushing the strainer on far enough. There is a small plastic post on the bottom of the pump that goes into a locking ring on the strainer. The locking ring should be pushed down on the post till it bottoms out. I needed a small screwdriver but be careful where you push. Plug the pump into the adapter.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-13-mj.jpg
All tightened down and ready to go.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-14-mj.jpg
Installed the new pump back in the van and it started right up. Finally could take my victory lap. Much happiness ensued.
Back to repairing the floor. First the foam layer.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-19-mj.jpg
Then the wood layer.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-20-mj.jpg
Hole? What hole?
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130407-21-mj.jpg
Gotta love the adhesive backed tile squares. That's it.
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WVvan
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04/07/13 08:31pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Thanks Bill.
I have a 4.2L engine and have no idea how any of the following relates to other sizes/types of engines.
Made the mistake of letting Hal sit over the winter without running the engine enough so on one of the first nice days I went to start it up and after a hard start there was this loud squeal from under the hood and the smell of hot rubber. Quickly stopped the engine and came to find the alternator had froze up.
Say hello to my new friend.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-01-mj.jpg
In replacing the alternator I've had my first experience with a serpentine belt. Last time I had to do something like this they were still called "fan belts". Found the belt tensioner to be a real bear to move enough to get the old belt off. Knew I'd need some help getting a new belt on. Right next door to the auto parts store is a hardware store. So when I went to get the new alternator also picked up a 3' long length of 3/8" threaded rod and a couple nuts. $3 and some change.
I've never done this before so don't know if there is a easier way but this worked for me. Back at home along with the threaded rod I got a short length of 2x4 , a scrap piece of angle iron and my breaker bar.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-17-mj.jpg
Drill a 3/8" hole in the angle iron such that the threaded rod is close enough to the breaker bar handle to prevent the handle from turning but allow it to slide back and forth.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-18-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-16-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-15-mj.jpg
Saw a notch across the 2x4 near the end.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-19-mj.jpg
Take the 2x4 out to the van and place it across the engine compartment so that the notch is resting in the metal lip on the back side of the compartment. The notch prevents the 2x4 from sliding forward as pressure is applied.
Use the threaded rod like a plumb bob and mark a vertical line on the side of the 2x4 so that the rod will hang between the fan blades and the engine block. Use the drawn line as a guide for the angle to drilling a hole through the 2x4. I used the next sized up drill bit from 3/8" so the rod won't bind in the 2x4. Install the 2x4 with the threaded rod so it's hanging to the right of the shaft on the fan blades. Use a washer between the 3/8" nut and the 2x4.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-02-m.jpg
This is the view from underneath the van looking up. Fan blades are at the bottom of the picture and the engine block is at the top. I have the breaker bar socket on the tensioner pulley.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-06-m.jpg
Also looking up. This is the the other end of the breaker bar. I've added the angle iron to the end of the threaded rod and by tightening the bolt have raised this end of the breaker bar .
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-05-m.jpg
This is the view from the top looking down. You can see the breaker bar on the tensioner pulley.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-04-m.jpg
Again looking down. The other end of the breaker bar is held between the threaded rod and the angle iron. As the nut above the 2x4 is tightened it raises this end of the breaker bar. Notice the shaft for the fan blades. Had to be sure I didn't raise the bar so far that it came in contact with the shaft.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-03-m.jpg
With the threaded rod in place lifting the tensioner I installed a new serpentine belt. Nothing here interferes with the placement of the belt. If the belt didn't slip right over all the pulleys I just cranked down on the bolt above the 2x4 until the tensioner was moved some more. Then with the belt correctly routed I cranked up on the rod a little at a time slowly increasing the belt tension while checking the fit on each pulley. Here's the view again from the bottom looking up with the belt partially routed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130330-07-m.jpg
That's it. So I put all the bits of the engine back together that I had to remove to do this work including the housing for the air filter and picked up all my tools. Weren't any nuts or bolts/screws left over so must have done it right. There's that certain feeling of self-satisfaction with a job well done. So I happily hop into the drivers seat to take my take my victory lap and ... the van won't start.
Mother pus bucket!
Anyway that's were I am at the moment. Have got it narrowed down to the fuel pump. Don't know yet if it's electrical or mechanical. On the bright side, if it's mechanical I know just where I can get some help.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111018-081-mj.jpg
|
WVvan
|
04/03/13 08:05am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
While I admire your determination, I can't belive how much time and effort tyou have put into this project!!!! Have you ever been dxed as Obessive/complusive?
No, just persistent. I like learning new things and the work on the van has been one new thing after another. Never would have guesses I'd be welding in my garage one day. This started out as a project and as morphed into a hobby.
Also, by coincidence, I just finished reading 3001 I've not read it yet. Will have to get to it. Don't tell me how it ends ;)
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WVvan
|
01/02/13 12:18pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
So I was talking to someone the other day about Hal and how the van got it's name but was surprised that they had never seen or heard of the movie "2001: A Space Odyssey".
Guess I'm showing my age since this movie was such a big deal when it first came out.
Thanks to youtube, here's the relevant portion of the movie. It helps to know that my name is "Dave".
Longer version:
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WVvan
|
12/31/12 04:53pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
This will be a posting about replacing the front passenger seat and adding a swivel base. I've finished this a while ago but never got around to writing about it.
I took this picture on the first day I brought the van home. Passenger seat has seen better days.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090712-24-mj.jpg
First checked out the price of new seats online then decided to head out and see what the local salvage yard had in stock. This looks like a possibility.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090916-01-mj.jpg
Nice looking seat but it only has the armrest on one side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090916-02-mj.jpg
Here's another one.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090916-25-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090916-19-mj.jpg
This is more like what I had in mind.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090916-26-mj.jpg
You can tell from the pictures that the van had been in the yard some time but even without the side or back doors I couldn't find anything wrong with the seat in the way of moldy or bad smells.
Not like this seat.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/dead_animal_seat-mj.jpg
The salvage yard charged me $25 for the seat. I wanted the seat to swivel but none of the seats at the yard had that option so instead bought a seat base from www.discountvantruck.com. The current price is $209 which is cheaper than what I paid for mine. The bolt hole pattern on the bottom of the base matched the pattern on the van floor but didn't match the seat I'd bought.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-021-mj.jpg
The width was OK but the front two bolts on the seat were off by around 1".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-025-mj.jpg
Nothing that a couple of holes couldn't fix.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-028-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-037-mj.jpg
Here is the seat now mounted on the swivel base.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-039-mj.jpg
Now to the seat belt. When I bought my base from http://www.discountvantruck.com they charged extra for the pre-tensioner holder. I decided to make my own from the original. This is the pre-tensioner on the original passenger seat.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-041-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-042-mj.jpg
The pre-tensioner needs to be attached to the new seat base. Partially disassemble the old passenger seat.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-049-mj.jpg
Here is the unattached pre-tensioner.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-050-mj.jpg
This is the left seat rail. It has the holder for the pre-tesioner riveted on.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-054-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-055-mj.jpg
Use a angle grinder with a cutting wheel to remove the rivet heads.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-057-mj.jpg
Then punch out the rivets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-058-mj.jpg
I don't know the real name of this seat part. I'm calling it the pre-tesioner holder but obviously it serves other purposes.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-060-mj.jpg
The trick is to now remove all the extraneous bits. Start cutting.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-061-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-062-mj.jpg
I'll be adding some square tubing as reinforcement where the holder attaches to the seat base.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-066-mj.jpg
Check that everything fits with the seat installed on the base. Also check seat clearances inside the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-068-mj.jpg
Start welding.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-071-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-072-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-078-mj.jpg
Install the base inside the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-080-mj.jpg
Mount the seat onto the base and check operation.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-082-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-083-mj.jpg
Need to do some work on the pre-tensioner. The plastic pieces that cover the buckle holder are gone.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-101-mj.jpg
Here's the pre-tensioner from the original drivers seat. I also replaced this seat with one from the salvage yard but the pre-tensioner can't be swapped between sides.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-103-mj.jpg
The pre-tensioner can't be exchanged between sides but the plastic cover pieces can. Pry apart the cover pieces from the drivers side. I'll use them on the passenger side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-109-mj.jpg
Clean up the pieces then epoxy together.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-110-mj.jpg
Screw the pre-tensioner to the seat base.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-113-mj.jpg
Install the cover.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110225-114-mj.jpg
Bolt everything in place in the van then have the supervisor check that it's comfortable. That's it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-102-m.jpg
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WVvan
|
12/23/12 08:41am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I've nowhere near finished with the RV electrical system but I have completed parts of it. This post covers getting power from the starting battery to the battery separator. The separator will be located next to the house batteries under the sofa-bed. I'll be routing a wire from the positive terminal of the starting battery across the top edge of the engine compartment, through the fire wall and then across the bottom of the drivers side step well.
Since the wire will be connected directly to the battery I'll add a fuse in case there should ever be a short.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-01-mj.jpg
I want to have the fuse located as close to the battery as possible. Problem is there isn't much free space to work with near the battery.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-03-mj.jpg
After taking measurements and giving it a some thought I decided to place the fuse near the top of the engine compartment. First step is to lower this wiring bundle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-04-mj.jpg
There is a space I can use between the the wiring bundle and the firewall.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-05-mj.jpg
Here is the fuse holder I'll be using. I cut out a poster board template of a possible mounting shield to do test fittings.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-08-mj.jpg
Once I cut the template to the right size transfer it to a sheet of steel laying around.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-14-mj.jpg
Bend the sheet as needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-15-mj.jpg
Trim the shield, drill holes, weld on a nut and paint. Then mount the fuse holder.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-22-mj.jpg
This is the view looking down on the edge of the hood opening. The hole on the left is where the ribbed plastic connector on the top of the wiring bundle goes through. On the right you can see the top of the screw head that secures the wiring bundle holder to the underside of this edge. The third hole from the left has a square metal piece attached on the underside. The notch cut in the top edge of the shield is to clear this metal piece.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-06-mj.jpg
In this photo you can see on the right were I've removed the screw for the wire bundle holder and lowered it. Put a bolt through the hole, second from the left in the above picture, that threads into the nut welded to the shield.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-23-mj.jpg
When I'm done both the screw for the bundle holder and the ribbed connector for the wire bundle will go through the shield to help hold it in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-70-mj.jpg
I added the yellow electrical tape to the ribbed connector since the original tape was looking weak.
With the fuse holder in place next decide where to run the wire. Being unsure sure how this would work I first used a red 6 gauge wire since it was easier to work with. After I finished I went back and redid the installation using a black 4 gauge wire. This worked out for this posting since the red wire shows up better in the photos.
First thing unscrew the fluid recovery tank from its mountings and move it forward.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-24-mj.jpg
Run the wire through the bundle holder along the top edge of the engine compartment.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-38-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-36-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-37-mj.jpg
I'm going to run the wire through the firewall in the area below the recovery tank. In the photo I already have a trouble light wedged in there.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-42-mj.jpg
As you can see the space is crowded.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-39-m.jpg
Take your time and maneuver a drill into place. I'm drilling through the firewall. Notice the cable that passes through the firewall a couple inches below the drill.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-43-mj.jpg
This is the view from the other side of the firewall. I'm looking up from the area under the drivers side of the dash. You can't see it in this photo but the fuse panel is to the right. I used the cable that passes through the firewall as my guide. I triple checked that this was a good spot to go through the firewall for the power wire before drilling.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-45-mj.jpg
First drill a pilot hole then drill the final hole size.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-48-mj.jpg
Here's what I'm using as my hole size guide. I picked up this grommet assortment at Harbor Freight for a few bucks.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-51-mj.jpg
Find the grommet that best fits the wire I'm using. The chart under the lid shows what size hole to drill for each grommet. Just drill that sized hole.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-50-mj.jpg
Install the grommet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-52-mj.jpg
Push through the wire.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-53-mj.jpg
The view inside the engine compartment before re-installing the recovery tank.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-58-mj.jpg
Run the power wire along side the bundle of wires that runs from under the dash along the left side of the drivers foot well and into the drivers step well.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-63-mj.jpg
Along the bottom of the step well and out the other side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111005-64-mj.jpg
The wire runs from the step well to the underside of the sofa-bed and to my battery separator. Since I'll be changing my battery separator later I won't bother to describe what I currently have in place.
After running the 6 gauge wire I was sure 4 gauge wouldn't be a problem so I redid it with the larger size. Everything was the same but I did need to re-do the firewall for a larger grommet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-22-mj.jpg
For the wire ends I used soldier on lugs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-23-mj.jpg
Added shrink tubing to the ends.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-24-mj.jpg
This is a close-up of the fuse holder without the fuse.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-25-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-27-mj.jpg
The battery terminal allows an easy connection.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120626-28-mj.jpg
I think I'm currently using a 150 amp fuse in the holder. OK, that's it.
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WVvan
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12/16/12 03:27pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
This post will be a bit different because it's not about me working on the van but me working ON the van. You'll get what I mean in a jif.
Last weekend I knew it was time to clean the gutters. All the leaves were down and it hadn't a rained in days so what was in the gutter should be mostly dry. The backside of the house is no problem but the front side is. The roof is too steep to clean the gutters safely from above. Using a house ladder doesn't work well since I can't lean it directly against the gutter and the overhang is such that I can't reach into the gutter from underneath.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-01-mj.jpg
So thinking about the problem when I got one of my "ideas". After a quick trip to the hardware store I brought home the following. Two 2" 90 degree PVC street elbows and one 2" 45 degree street elbow. Around $5 total. Use duck tape to join them together as shown.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-33-mj.jpg
This picture was taken after I was done. They weren't his scratched up new.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-31-mj.jpg
Pull the van up close to the front of the house. Lean a step ladder against the side of the van. Used an old towel to protect the side of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-13-mj.jpg
To the top of the van run an extension cord. Then put my shop-vac on top of the van. Tape the PVC elbows to the end of the extension tubes that came with the shop-vac.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-26-mj.jpg
Turn on the shop-vac and see if this idea works.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-04-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-05-mj.jpg
Not only did it work but it worked amazingly well! I wished all my ideas turned out like this. You can see from the inside of the elbow it even sucked out that grunge that collects on the bottom of the gutter.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-29-mj.jpg
I've angled the 45 degree elbow on the end to allow me to get in below the support pieces that go across the top of the gutter every so often. It's a full size shop-vac and here's the inside after doing just half of the gutter.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-10-mj.jpg
When I got the lowest end of the gutter I had a couple times where a mess of wet leaves clogged the end of the elbow. I just swung the mass to the opposite side of the van and pulled the flexible hose from the bottom of the extension pieces. With the suction broken the mass would fall off to the ground.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-11-mj.jpg
Even though I was working from below the gutter and couldn't see what was going on the suction noises gave a kind of audio feedback along with what you can feel as the elbow moves in the gutter.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-08-mj.jpg
The job went really quick. Had to move the van once to get both ends of the gutter. One caution. Don't get too absorbed in what you're doing and walk off the end of the van. No I didn't do that. Also people driving by tend to slow down and stare. Don't know why.
I tried to get Tiger to take a picture of me working on the roof of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-18-mj.jpg
Unfortunately he was in one of his "moods".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121201-14-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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12/08/12 09:36pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I've gotten a few private messages worried that something had happened since there hasn't been any new Hal postings in a while. Mainly I've been doing a lot of traveling. That and with the shorter days it's dark by the time I get home from work which always puts me into a bit of a funk this time of year. Well things are now looking brighter. According to the U.S. Naval Observatory today is the last day this year when the sun sets earlier than the day before. By 12/9, in these parts, the sun it will start setting later making it seem like the days are starting to get longer. They won't since the Winter Solstice isn't until 12/21. The days will continue to get shorter until then but that will be from later sunrises. But that's OK. I already feel better!
Back to work. With all the interstate traveling I've been doing in Hal lately there is a steering problem that's really started to bug me. At speeds above 60 MPH the steering wheel has a slight back-and-forth shimmy that's tiring on a long haul. I've previously had the ball joints and alignment checked and tires rebalanced but it won't go away. I'd read about adding a steering stabilizer so decide to give it a go. I should have done this years ago.
I used this thread from http://www.ford-trucks.com as my guide for this project.
Here are the three main components needed for the steering stabilizer.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-12-m.jpg
Same parts, different view.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-11-mj.jpg
The two brackets I ordered from www.silverstatefordparts.com
Part #s
F2UZ3E652A $38.10
F2UZ3E652B $56.70 (The "B" bracket is the one with the two U-bolts)
The Monroe Magnum Steering Damper came from my local Advance Auto.
Part # SC2955 $33.99
First off is to locate the "A" bracket. It goes on the the left hand (passenger side) chassis frame at the front. Here are the three mounting holes on my van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-01-mj.jpg
There were rust issues with Hal when I bought it. I've covered the exposed metal with Rust Bullet to deal with the rust. Need to first knock off any surface rust before installing the bracket so do some chipping. Next take a 3/8" tap and clean up the mounting holes.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-03-m.jpg
After checking the metal vs rust ratio in the tapped hole I had my doubts about the threads holding power.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-04-mj.jpg
So I threaded in a 3/8" bolt and tried to see if I could strip the hole.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-05-mj.jpg
Yep I could.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-06-mj.jpg
Went back to my tap set and found the next largest size which is 7/16" and used it next.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-07-mj.jpg
Can't tell from the pictures but I'm using cutting fluid with the tap.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-08-mj.jpg
This time the tapped holes looked a lot better. Tested them the same way as before but this time with a 7/16" bolt. The holes didn't strip.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-10-mj.jpg
Bolt the "A" bracket to the frame using three 7/16"-14 X 1" bolts with lock washers. All the hardware store had in that size was Grade 8. Bolts were $1.09 each and washers $0.22 each.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-16-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-15-mj.jpg
Do the "B" bracket next. First off I measured the max extension of the piston on the steering damper. It's around 8".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-20-mj.jpg
Before proceeding, turn the wheels all the way to the right. This is needed to align the "B" bracket.
Next is to attach the damper to the "A" bracket. I used a 1/2" bolt but it had to be pounded through the Monroe damper. A better fit would be with a M12-1.75 bolt but I didn't have any on hand.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-22-mj.jpg
Extend the piston about a 1/2".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-24-mj.jpg
Then use that to line up where the "B" bracket should be bolted to the drag link on the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-25-mj.jpg
Since the "B" bracket can be rotated on the drag link while still keeping the piston extension at 1/2" it's not obvious what the best position should be. I used the rubber radiator hose as a guide so none of the steering damper parts would rub against it and possibly cause a hole.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-27-mj.jpg
The bolt that extends from the "B" bracket through the Monroe damper is a M12-1.75. I paid $1.04 for a pair of nylon locknuts for it. Snug up all the nuts on the "B" bracket but don't do a final tighten yet.
Turn the front wheels all the way to the left and check the fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-30-mj.jpg
Here's why I measured the max piston extension earlier. Can check if the damper is fully extended. There is still have another inch if needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-28-mj.jpg
It would probably be best to have someone observe the the steering damper as you turn the wheels back and forth. When you're sure everything looks good tighten it down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/121116-31-mj.jpg
Take it for a test drive. In my case the steering damper has made a major improvement in the steering wheel shimmy. It's not totally eliminated but much better. I've read of other benefits but haven't had a chance to really test it out yet.
That's it.
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WVvan
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12/05/12 07:49am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Got the brake system replacement done yesterday.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-09-mj.jpg
Didn't document it like usual since it's a really dirty and greasy job and didn't want to mess up my camera.
cost:
Rock Auto
rear brake hose: $14.96
left front brake hose: $13.09
right front brake hose: $14.23
Advance Auto
brake caliper - $44.99 excluding core charge (needed two)
brake pads (Wearever Gold) - $37.89
nickle-copper brake line - 3/16" x 25' - $49.99 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 3/8" (5 fittings per package) - $1.99 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 7/16" (5 fittings per package) - $2.49 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 9/16" (5 fittings per package) - $2.49
brass union - 3/16" x 3/8" - $2.49
brake hose retaining clip - 4 clips per package - $5.49
wheel cylinder - $15.19 (needed two)
brake drum hardware kit - $8.49 (one kit covers both rear wheels)
brake fluid - 32 oz - $5.99 (needed three)
bolts - M8-1.25 x 12mm (needed for one wheel cylinder) - $2.49
Harbor Freight
Double flaring tool - $19.99 - (See more about this farther down)
One blood blister - no charge
Following is some information that would have made the job easier if I'd known it all ahead of time:
Brake fittings and brake line runs. All brake lines are 3/16".
Rear most fitting on the master cylinder. 7/16".
This line runs to the right (drivers) side of the ABS unit directly below the master cylinder.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-11-mj.jpg
Front most fitting on master cylinder. 9/16".
This line runs to the top of the brake hose that goes to the drivers side caliper.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-12-mj.jpg
Both the fittings on the ABS unit are 7/16".
This line runs down to then along the top of the drivers side frame rail. Aft of the front wheel it runs to the outside of the frame until opposite the fuel filter then curls over the top of the rail to a union.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-13-mj.jpg
Top of the brake hose for the driver's side caliper. There are two 3/8" fittings here. One you can see entering at the top and another on the back. One fitting is from the master cylinder. The other goes to a brake line that runs to the passenger side brake hose. The brake line that runs to the rear wheels is visible in the center right of the photo.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-15-mj.jpg
Brake hose for the passenger side caliper. The 3/8" fitting enters in the rear.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-14-mj.jpg
Rear brake hose. This also a 3/8" fitting. This length of brake line runs from the union near the fuel filter along the inside of the frame rail parallel to the fuel tank to this point. One note about the rear brake hose. The old hose was so rusted to this metal support I had to first use a sawzall to cut away one side of the fitting then use a hammer, punch and some violence to get it free.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/123001-02-mj.jpg
Bottom of the rear brake hose. Left fitting is 7/16". It runs to the drivers side wheel cylinder. Right side is 3/8" and runs to the passenger side wheel cylinder.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-34-mj.jpg
Both left and right side wheel cylinders use 7/16" fittings.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-35-mj.jpg
The two bolts that hold each wheel cylinder take a 10mm socket to remove.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-23-mj.jpg
To remove the front calipers you'll need a 13/16" socket for the brackets and a 1/2" for the caliper bolts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-26-mj.jpg
To get the caliper core charge back you'll need to include the bracket. Funny thing about the core charge at Advance Auto. The core charge was more expensive than the new calipers.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-06-mj.jpg
Bleed screws. For the wheel cylinders it's 3/8". For the passenger side caliper it's also 3/8" but for the drivers side caliper it's 10mm.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-25-mj.jpg
I decided to use nickle-copper brake line as a replacement to steel brake lines for three reasons. It doesn't rust. It's easy to bend and I'll be able to make the needed double flared ends using a cheap Harbor Freight tool.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/123001-03-mj.jpg
The reviews for the Double Flare tool on the Harbor Freight site show that it's not tough enough for steel brake line but I hoped it would work well enough with nickle-copper. Almost. A lot of the reviews complained about the small post on the round die snapping off. I was careful with the tool as I made the flares but on, what I thought would be, my last flare the same thing happened with the post snapping off. So I took a larger sized die and used my metal lathe to reduce the diameter of the center post then shortened it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-39-mj.jpg
Here is the broken die next to the newly machined one.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-40-mj.jpg
I'd like to say that everything was just right when I went to bleed the system but that would be a lie. Two of my flares leaked and needed redone. Here I am under the van doing the one that attaches to the rear brake hose.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/123001-01-mj.jpg
I'm being closely watched to make sure I get it right this time.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120930-33-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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10/02/12 08:33am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
So about a half hour ago I hop into the van to run a couple errands and start pulling away from the house. When I first use the brakes they feel a little soft. When I use them a second time they go to the floor. If you've noticed from my photos I live on a bit of a hill. Luckily when this happened the van was pulled around so it was perpendicular to the slope. Carefully moved it back to in front of the house and saw this when I got out:
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120831-04-mj.jpg
Some people might be distressed to have this happen to them but not me. Why? Because I spent last weekend camping at the Monongahela National Forest in the van. So that means it is was a weekend of up the mountain, down the mountain, up the mountain, down the mountain, up the mountain.... You get the idea.
The fact that this might easily have happened while barreling down a steeply graded, no guard railed forest road miles from help but instead happened while I was moving along slowly a few feet from my house means I'm happy as can be.
Seeing how it's a three day weekend and I wasn't planning to go anywhere I'll have plenty of time to work on the problem.
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WVvan
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08/31/12 08:16pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Upgrading the Blower Motor Controls - Post #4
Now that I've installed the new blower motor PWM control module inside the dash I have to decide how to wire this up to the blower motor. Could always run new wires but since there is already wires in place I'll use them instead. The old wiring will need a little reconfiguring.
Start with a look at the original blower motor wiring. This diagram shows how the "Function Selector Switch" is wired. The "Function Selector Switch" is the one on the CCC marked "MAX A/C, NORM A/C, VENT, OFF, FLR, MIX, defrost symbol"
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-02-mj.jpg
Note how when the switch is in any position except "OFF" power flows through the switch to the "Blower Motor Relay".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-01-mj.jpg
The letter "A" in the triangle means this circuit is continued onto another page
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-03-t.jpg
This page shows the continuation of the blower motor circuit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-04-mj.jpg
The "A" in the triangle shows the power coming from the "Function Selector Switch" and energizing the coil on the "Blower Motor Relay". The relay makes the connection between the blower motor and van battery through the 50 amp fuse at position number 13 in the "Engine Compartment Fuse Box".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-05-mj.jpg
I no longer want the power to go directly to the blower motor but instead want it to go to the PWM control module installed in the dash. The power for the motor will then come from the PWM control module. So I need to bypass the motor. In the above diagram the connector for the motor is labeled as "C160". The wires for C160 are labels as "O/R" and "O/BK". So one wire will be orange with a red strip and the other will be orange with a black strip.
Here is connector C160.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-025-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-026-mj.jpg
Normally this connector would be plugged directly into a socket in the side of the blower motor but I previously installed a replacement blower motor. The replacement motor came with this externally wired socket that connector C160 plugs into instead.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-082-mj.jpg
On the replacement motor's external socket cut both the wires. Then strip and crimp the two wires together at the socket. I'll come back to the wires that lead to the motor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-084-mj.jpg
Double shrink tube the connection to try and make it weather proof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-085-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-086-mj.jpg
With the blower motor bypassed the power goes from circuit #515 into circuit #261. There is a splice at S144 where the circuit branches to both the left and the right. Ignore the right branch to the "Blower Motor Resistor" for the moment and follow the circuit to the left. The circuit terminates at the "Front Blower Switch" through connector C207.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-06-mj.jpg
Here are details of the blower switch and connector C207.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-077-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-078-mj.jpg
Connector C207. It plugged into the back of the CCC.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-079-mj.jpg
By crimping spade connectors to the ends of wires I can plug directly into the connector. This way I didn't have to cut the wires from the back of the connector.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-080-mj.jpg
The spade connectors are on wires that led to the PWM control module. That's how I'll get power to the module and also using it to send the modulated power back to the blower motor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-081-mj.jpg
Same diagram as before. Notice circuit #269 (LB/O) and #260 (R/O). They run from the connector C207 to connector C158.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120824-06-mj.jpg
Here is connector C158. It's plugged into the "Blower Motor Resistor".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-083-mj.jpg
In the new wiring scheme the "Blower Motor Resistor" is no longer used so I'm going to take circuits #260 and #269 and use them to deliver the Pulse Width Modulated power to the blower motor. I've already wired it up at the connector C207 end. Crimp spade terminals to each of the two motor wires I cut earlier. Plug them into connector C158 in the appropriate slots. This is a DC motor so polarity does matter.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-087-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-108-mj.jpg
I'm only going to use two of the four slots in the connector. To make the connection weatherproof I painted on several coats of the Liquid Electrical Tape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-109-mj.jpg
Plug in the bypass to connector C160.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-090-mj.jpg
Cable tie wires in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-110-mj.jpg
In this new arrangement the "Blower Motor Resistor" is no longer used. Will leave it in place because to remove it would leave a hole in the ductwork.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-111-mj.jpg
Put the two halves of the CCC back together now with the power LED and pot speed controller installed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-100-mj.jpg
Found one problem when I first tried to use the new blower speed control. It will only turn 90 degrees. I had assumed that the original fan speed selector switch is what restricted the turning arc and once the switch was removed it would turn freely. Not so. You can see this plastic ridge that limits the knobs turning to 90 degrees.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-096-mj.jpg
It engages this small clear plastic block on the knob.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-098-mj.jpg
A little surgery with a Dremel and no longer a problem.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-099-mj.jpg
The knob will now turn through the pot's full turning arc of around 300 degrees.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-101-mj.jpg
Put it all back together.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-112-mj.jpg
I wired up one of toggle switches below the radio so I can run the fan from the house batteries. It's wired up similar to how I have the radio so the fan power automatically switches over to the van battery whenever I start the engine.
I've put a thousand + miles on the van since doing the fan upgrade and I really like it. Having more than four speed settings is nice when driving and being able to power vent the van when camping comes in handy. I wouldn't run the fan at high speed for too long when on house batteries alone but you can still get a nice air flow at low speed which isn't too hard on the batteries.
At night the blue LED is a brighter than expected but since it's pointed at the center of the van it's not a distraction to me when driving. In case you forget to set the vent control before stopping the engine it's no problem since there is still enough vacuum left in the system to change vent settings.
OK. That's the end of this project.
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WVvan
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08/24/12 07:01pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Upgrading the Blower Motor Controls - Post #3
Here's the CCC on my workbench.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-018-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-020-mj.jpg
The two halves are held together by plastic tabs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-021-mj.jpg
This layer of clear plastic is used to spread the illumination from the two light bulbs across the width of the CCC. It will shine out through clear places, like where there is lettering, on the covering sheet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-022-mj.jpg
The next step took a bit of pondering since I'm making this up as I go. Had to decide both how and where was the best place to mount the potentiometer (pot) from the control module to the CCC. Thought of a bunch of different ways to position the pot and power the blower motor but finally decided to replace the current blower motor switch with the pot and install a selector switch in the switch panel below the radio. Since the fan can be powered from the house batteries I'll add a LED to indicate when the fan is on.
The indicator LED will extend through the front of the CCC so need to know the size of the hole to drill. Looks to be 3/16".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-058-t.jpg
I started using a red LED ("Hal's Eye") for the indicator then later changed over to a more benevolent blue LED.
To clear space for the LED do a little surgery on the clear plastic with a Dremel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-060-mj.jpg
Drill a hole through the front half of the CCC for the LED.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-061-mj.jpg
Test fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-062-mj.jpg
Also do some more surgery on the back half of the CCC.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-063-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-064-mj.jpg
To keep the LED forward enough to protrude through the front half of the CCC once two halves are snapped back together I built a small acrylic base.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-065-mj.jpg
Next work on the pot.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-068-mj.jpg
The stem on the pot is shorter than on the blower switch so it will be mounted to the inside of the front half of the CCC instead of to the rear of the back half.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-069-mj.jpg
To use the original blower motor knob I had to remove the internal metal sleeve and do some filing.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-070-mj.jpg
Because the electrical contacts on the pot are exposed I wanted to add insulation. Used Liquid Electrical Tape I bought at Lowe's
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-072-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-073-mj.jpg
Wire up the LED. It's slightly out of focus but there is a resistor connected in line with the LED. The resistor reduces the voltage so the LED doesn't burn out.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-075-mj.jpg
Here's where I changed over to the blue LED.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120712-076-mj.jpg
continued -
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WVvan
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08/23/12 09:28am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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