RE: GPS 7200
I have had my 7200 for about 3 years and I am very happy with it. I like the large screen size. I have mounts in my MH and in my Toad. We use it all of the time. I also like and use the SD card for MP3 files and Audio Books I have downloaded. I also use the XM Radio option.
The only problem I have had with it is the touch screen malfunctions once and a while, usually when the the unit is very cold. It will act like the screen is being constantly touched. I need to shut it down to correct the problem.
It does not announce street names or have "lane assist", features on their newest models. It also does not allow changing the position indicator icon like newer models.
I hope this helps,
Jim
RE: Hydraulic Door closers
You might also check here, another source of RV parts and hardware:
http://www.tomraperrvparts.com/parts/images/318/250/318782.jpg
RV Hardware Source
RE: Pueblo, CO to Montrose, CO via SR 50
Plan to stop at the top of Monarch Pass. There is a restaurant/gift shop with a large parking lot for RVs.
http://img.groundspeak.com/waymarking/log/display/a0326765-deb3-4686-8233-92ecbe2e1d4d.JPG height=400
Watch for it or you will quickly pass it by.
RE: Damon Challenger Platinum
I just noticed you are from T Town. We live just north, near Charleston. Small world.
If you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase your Challenger? Ours is from S&S in Farina.
Jim
RE: Damon Challenger Platinum
Welcome to the world of Class A Motor Homes, and congratulations on your purchase. We bought a new 2007 Damon Challenger and could not be happier. We chose the 377c floor plan in part because of the separate living areas, dining table rather than booth, storage and cargo carrying capacity, thermal windows, and more. We have the Ford F53 V10 and are very happy with that also.
http://people.consolidated.net/nookcran/377.jpg height=400
As far as towing a car, we went with a 4-down toad. Though the initial set-up cost was kind of high at nearly $3,000, we were able to spread the cost over almost 2 years.
There is a handy Dinghy Towing Guide to use as a start to determine what vehicles can be towed 4-down, but the final word comes from the car's manufacturer, usually in the owner's handbook.
Though I have never towed with a tow dolly, you have the added weight of the dolly to consider, along with what to do with it while camping.
What ever you choose, 4-down or dolly, you will not be able to back-up your rig while hooked up, even a foot or two will damage your towed vehicle. This makes choosing a fuel stop (gas in our case) a particularly difficult decision. As you approach the station, you will need to anticipate whether you will have enough room to get in, get fuel and drive back out without backing up. This means having enough room to "loop in front of the building, or better yet, loop around the back of the building to get out.
We mark "Easy Gas" stops as favorites on our GPS for return trips in the same area. We are also in the habit of considering potential fuel stops even when we are not in the motor home. It becomes habit.
Also, if we travel less than 400 miles in a day, we will stop to camp, and use the dinghy to scope out local gas stations for an early morning fill-up for when we leave.
Finally, you may wish to check out the Damon Owner's Forum.
I hope this has helped. Good luck and happy camping,
Jim
RE: What is the typical 'shelf life' of the engine/powertrain?
Depending on the quality of the original parts, failure might take quite a few years. I am currently driving a vehicle that I bought new, seven years ago. We get it serviced every 3,000 miles and it has close to 100,000 miles on it with only tires and front brakes replaced.
On the other hand, I once bought a 30 year old Ford truck with only 12,000 miles on it. It had been in storage over 20 years. The body was perfect, but every seal, diaphragm and rubber hose/part needed to be replaced. The carb was rebuilt, new fuel pump and hoses, new brake cylinders and steel brake lines and hoses, all new belts and engine hoses, on and on.
You should plan to keep all of your fluids (oils, cooling system, brake, etc) fresh. All fluids should be replaced, regardless of miles driven, every 3 years.
Moisture is your enemy. An unused vehicle will collect moisture, in the crankcase, fuel tank, transmission, rear end, and brake system, in all but the driest climates. Running and driving the unit at least 15 to 20 minutes every few weeks will help displace the moisture. You should bring the engine and transmission up to operating temperature to be effective.
Sunlight is also your enemy. Indoor or covered storage will help here. Keep the unit clean and waxed to help preserve the paint and retard fading. Many will also cover their tires while camping.
Certain climates (smog especially) cause rubber parts do deteriorate in a few years. You should watch for this in seals and gaskets. Also diaphragms and various shaft seals will eventually loose their designed abilities and begin to leak. Plan to replace all tires every 5 years, regardless of tread depth.
My personal preference would be not to invest in an RV 10 years or more old unless it was in exceptional condition. If you follow these guide lines, you could easily get 15-20 years of successful life from the drive train of a new or only slightly used unit. Of course your mileage may vary...
Good luck and happy camping.
RE: How can you tell if your shocks have gone bad?
The first thing is a visual inspection for oil and grime at the top of the lower section. Most shocks contain oil that leaks out indicating worn out shocks.
Also, after many miles of bad shocks, tires will wear unevenly, cupping in the tread.
Or you can disconnect the shock from the bottom bracket and push it up and back by hand. It should be difficult to do. If it is easy to do, the shock is bad.
Since the shock retards suspension movement, bouncing over bumps and RR tracks is also a sign. On a car or light truck, press down hard on the corner of the vehicle, then release. Good shocks will only let the car return to normal height. If it continues to bounce up and down, the shocks are bad.
I am not familiar with the Rancho 9000XL shock. I can tell you that the primary purpose of shocks in a suspension is to keep the suspension from repeatedly moving up and down after the initial movement. Most shocks are not designed to carry weight.
Having said that though, there are shocks available that have external springs or internal air bladders that are adjustable and will affect the ride height under load. They do not change the manufacturer's GVWR or GCWR, but they will, when properly used, bring a loaded vehicle back to (or at least closer to) level.
Since most shocks contain oil, and repeated compression generates heat that breaks down the oil, some shocks will contain nitrogen gas, and others will have external oil tanks to compensate for the heat generated. These are used in competition and serious off-road driving. You may or may not see a benefit from using competition grade shocks for normal street use.
I hope this helps you.
Good luck and happy camping.
Jim
RE: What is 100 Amp Service?
We just bought a deeded "RV" lot in the RGV. One reason we choose this particular lot was because it not only had 50 amp service for our motor home, it also had 100 amp service to support a Park Model. A park model is a cross between a mobile home and an RV, but limited to under 450 sq. ft. Park models are not designed to be towed like a camper. The are "set" on the lot more or less permanently.
If DW and I decide to move to a park model someday, the lot is ready. If we decide to sell it, it is ready for the next buyer to take advantage of the 100 amp service.
So is the 100 amp hookup just two 50 amp plugs as described above?
There is a "standard" 20/30/50 RV pedestal and a separate 100 amp feed from the power company to a metered post behind the lot. The park owner had the power company run separate 100 amp service to certain perimeter "Park Model" sites for dual use as RV or Park Model, at the deeded owner's discretion.
When we use the RV pedestal, it is metered and we pay a kilowatt charge to the park owner (as most long term parks do). Should we choose to take advantage of the 100 amp service, the local power company will set a meter in our name and we will pay them through a regular homeowner account. In the future if high end RV's move to 100 amps, and we sell the lot without a park model on it, we may sell it to a 100 amp user, or someone looking to get a park model.
This lot was priced the same as other "50 amp only" lots, so for us it was a "no brain-er".
RE: What is 100 Amp Service?
We just bought a deeded "RV" lot in the RGV. One reason we choose this particular lot was because it not only had 50 amp service for our motor home, it also had 100 amp service to support a Park Model. A park model is a cross between a mobile home and an RV, but limited to under 450 sq. ft. Park models are not designed to be towed like a camper. The are "set" on the lot more or less permanently.
If DW and I decide to move to a park model someday, the lot is ready. If we decide to sell it, it is ready for the next buyer to take advantage of the 100 amp service.
RE: What are "Scripts"
Think of a "script" as a set of instructions. Like a script tells actors how to behave and what to say, a java script is a set of instructions in computer code that will tell a web page how to appear and what to do.
When this set of instructions (part of a web page design) fails, the message appears. If you say no and stop the set of instructions from running, there is probably no harm except you might not see what the web page designer wanted.
Most scripts are harmless and even helpful, but once and a while a "bad" script is encountered, and your computer will warn you that you may not want to run the script.
So this warning is a good thing, it is trying to protect you and your computer from harmful scripts (actions).
RE: Where should the water go...
Although I have never owned a Dutchman Class C, on RVs I have owned, a full grey water tank backs up through the lowest drain, either the tub or shower. If it continues to backup, water will overflow on to the floor.
The tank will fill up if a faucet is left running, unknown, long enough, say during the game. Some RVers will shut off the hydrant when leaving camp for the day.
To have water leak from the tank under the bed is probably not right. I recommend removing the bed and sub-floor to try and see the source of the leak. It could be a damaged tank or pipe that should be replaced.
Also you should begin mold mitigation by exposing water damaged areas to light and air. A web search for mold prevention/correction will probably provide some suggested actions.
Good luck in your repairs...
Jim
RE: lite hookup for toad
You will need to install diodes in the jeep ahead of each rear light bulb. Roadmaster and others sell these and also wiring kits to use. This is how we did our Toyota.
Or you can use magnetic lights, but the wind will probably flap the wire scratching the car's paint.
Or you could add separate light bulbs in the Jeep's fixtures.
If you watch as you meet or pass other RVers with toads, only a few will have the magnetic lights. Hard wiring diodes is the preferred way to go. It is not difficult to do, but if you are concerned, do like we did and hire it done.
I hired my Toyota dealer's service dept. to handle the wiring and to install the front base plate. Well worth the investment.
Jim
RE: Class C to A?
In April of 2006, we purchased our first RV in 10 years. We are empty nesters, and in 2006 we were about a year from my retirement, and 3 years from DW's retirement. We purchased this brand new (23')Gulfstream B/T Cruiser.
http://people.consolidated.net/nookcran/2007.jpg width=600
We really enjoyed this unit and took as our longest trip, a six week trip through Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado before returning home to Illinois.
As you can see from the above picture, storage capacity (especially for long trips) was a problem overcome by my adding a locking storage pod to the rear hitch. Interior storage was also at a premium and I converted one of the two wardrobes to a shelved food pantry.
This "C" was very easy to drive and powerful enough with the V-10 to handle the Rocky Mtns (Monarch Pass) pulling the TOAD without a problem.
One of the biggest drawbacks of this unit and the reason we eventually traded up to a 38' class A, was that there was no dedicated bed. The B/T Cruiser had two jack-knife sofas that we needed to make up each night. Even using Traversacks this was not fun after 6 weeks on the road.
As my retirement date approached in early 2007, we decided we needed a bigger unit. We looked at larger Class Cs, but they still lacked the interior and exterior storage we thought we would need for the "full-timing" we wanted to do. We hoped to spend 4-5 months in the summer travelling the country, then use the unit to winter somewhere in the south.
We felt we wanted to stay with a class A rather then move to a trailer or a fiver since we liked to be able to move around in the unit during travel, and we already had invested in setting up our Toyota to tow.
We finally settled on a new (2007) Damon Challenger 377c:
http://people.consolidated.net/nookcran/2008D.jpg width=600
We chose this model, first because of the "3 room" floor plan, but also because of the Ford V10, the extensive interior and exterior storage, and extras like thermal, dual pain windows. Our only regret moving to this larger unit is that even though DW often shared the driving duties in the B/T Cruiser, the Damon is just too big for her to be comfortable driving. This gives me all of the driving duties, but we knew that going in and I have handled it well, even putting in 10 hour driving days when necessary.
I hope these insights have helped, and happy camping...
Jim
RE: Even Brake Help!!
I suspect you will want the dinghy's tail turn and brake lights to be wired to the MH, since the even-brake will not always engage when you stop the MH.
RE: What is a tag axle...
It is an additional (undriven) axle behind the rear drive axle. It is usually added by the RV manufacturer to allow for additional weight capacity. Some on more expensive units will steer their wheels during turns, but most are non-steering and scuff the tag axle tires during turns causing premature tire wear.
Some are weight adjustable with air bag suspensions, but if not correctly adjusted by the driver, they can be overloaded resulting in tire failure. Class A and Class C motor homes can be equipped with Tag Axles.
I trust this answers your question.
Good luck and happy camping...
Jim
RE: Route 20 east to west
I agree about Galena. Great shopping district and interesting history. Take a guided city bus tour to learn more about the interesting history. Then stop in Dubuque and visit the downtown Museum of the Mississippi River. Then if you have time visit Eagle Point Park for some great river views.
A little farther west is Dyersville Iowa where you can visit there Ertl Toy Museum and the always popular movie site where Field of Dreams was shot.
RE: Route 20 east to west
We lived near Highway 20 in eastern Iowa for over 20 years. I can tell you in Iowa, it is almost entirely 4 lane divided interstate style construction. In western Illinois, however there are still about 40 miles of two lane hilly and winding road (From the Mississippi east).
I should add that for the most part the original two lane road is still in use next to the four lane. Of course on the old road you will encounter towns every 5-10 miles with slower speeds and traffic controls. If you do not mind the slow downs, going the two lane route affords more opportunities to "stop and smell the roses".
At least in Iowa, I would not hesitate using the two lane of 20 with my 38' Damon and toad. You should also make it through western Illinois OK, also.
Whatever route you choose:
Good luck and happy camping...
RE: Towing a Toyota Yaris
I do tow a Yaris 4 down. Mine is a 2007 Hatchback, 5 speed. I use an Even-Brake and a Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar.
Do not disconnect the battery. It will be needed to power an aux brake system.
I turn on the engine with the spare key, then turn it off and leave it in the ignition switch. This leaves the steering wheel unlocked. I then use the other key to manually lock the doors.
I wired diodes in the car's wiring to activate the brake, turn, and tail lights.
I have towed the Yaris this way nearly 15,000 miles without a problem.
By the way, the electronic odometer does not register towed miles when the key is off.
If yours is a manual transmission, it should be the same.
Good luck and happy camping...
Jim
RE: Where to spend Thanksgiving on the TX Gulf Coast?
You might enjoy staying at Marina Beach RV Resort http://www.mbrvresort.com/ in Port Aransas, just north of Corpus Christi. We visited there this summer and the park was on out short list for a winter address.
Port Aransas is accessible from the mainland via free ferry.
Our Class A would fit the ferry no problem. There is also a land rout to Port Aransas from the north.
Port Aransas is a "tourist community" and the RV park is right in the heart of the activity. Many residents have golf carts and drive them right out on the beach. Golf cart rentals are also available in town. Being flat, bicycles would work well also.
On the other hand we did spend 5 days in Corpus Christi at Puerto del Sol RV Park. Though the staff was friendly, and its location is next to a public beach and local attractions, we were disappointed in the way the park was maintained. In fact while we were there there was evidence of a total lack of maintenance. If you want a park on the water then this is it, but I do not believe we will be staying there again.
Good luck and happy camping...
Jim
RE: Camps in Mission Tx.
I have found this WEB site to be extensive and very informative:
The Winter Texan WEB Site link
Good luck and happy camping...
Jim
