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 > Your search for posts made by 'aftermath' found 110 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Stabilizers lube

sorry, double post.
aftermath 12/06/17 09:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Stabilizers lube

I use a sylicon spray product with Teflon. The Teflon stays behind and leaves a film of "grease" like substance but the screws in my stabilizer system don't collect dirt. Can't remember the name but I get it at the local HD
aftermath 12/06/17 09:34am Travel Trailers
RE: Compact gas grill

I like the one that attaches to the trailer. I had an RVQ on my Starcraft Hybrid and really did like it. I used the propane from the trailer and it stored in a bag which kept things clean. That said, I am a believer (in most cases) in you get what you pay for. I have purchased many portable BBQs, most of them the cheap variety over the years. I did not want to pay the extra for a "fancy" one. These BBQs worked well but they did not last. Grates would warp and burners would, well, burn out. If you can get one for half the price but it only lasts a third, or less, of the time you are not saving anything. I purchased a Webber Q200 which was the larger of the two offered at the time. It is a bit of a beast but with two son in laws and families we needed the extra grill space. This thing continues to work very well and performs like new. It isn't all that hard to clean either. What are you looking for? One that attaches to the side of the trailer has its advantages. If you want a good table top BBQ, take a look at the Webber.
aftermath 11/30/17 11:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Covered vs Uncovered Underbelly

Enclosed underbellies do have their pluses and minuses for sure and these have been mentioned in this thread. An enclosed underbelly does improve the aerodynamics but the question here is will that improvement really do much to help your wallet. Those who are quick to dismiss all things as "hype" need to rethink things. I tow an Airstream and have right at 40K miles on it. The aerodynamics on this thing really do make a difference. After a couple of years we installed a bike rack on the back and I noticed just about a 1 mpg loss in efficiency. It didn't seem to matter if there were bikes attached or not. I used the onboard computer to check and then went to paper and pencil methods and I was down just about one mpg. The rack on the back changed the aerodynamics enough to see the difference at the pump. My underbelly is covered. If I uncovered it I am sure the added turbulence would have an effect. The issue here is, does the extra turbulence really make that much of a difference to you and is it really all that large? A salesman will push the covered version and make it sound much better than it really is. I suppose this is the hype mentioned earlier. Yes, it is better but how much better? I say, not that much. I like my bike rack and would not think of removing it just to get a bit better towing mileage. This is the same argument I would apply to the underbelly decision. What are the benefits?
aftermath 11/28/17 09:13am Travel Trailers
RE: F150 asa TV for 5th wheel

Where is the OP? I think Blanch is a troll trying to get up a war over the best truck and what can haul what. Fords are the best and can do anything....I think he has succeeded. You bet, a half ton can tow a large 5er with ease.
aftermath 11/20/17 04:32pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Anti-Sway Bars with 30+ ft. TT and 1-ton Truck

...."My numbers and assumptions are no more out of the sky than yours. My numbers are based on a score of CAT scale tickets I've acquired with various trucks I've used WDH's on. The empty tongue weight on the TT I based this scenario on is 850 lbs. It's perfectly reasonable to assume it may increase to 1,200 lbs. when loaded. Yes, it could be even higher, but that's unlikely. You nit-picked my numbers which I clearly stated are approximate. Bottom line you failed to address my basic premise: with 1.200 lbs. of tongue weight (on my 3500 SRW) the weight on my front and rear axles will be more equally distributed without using a WDH. Even adjusting the numbers as you suggested this would still be true." The function of a WDH is to return weight to the front axle. If your truck is able to "equally distribute" this weight without a WDH then you should be good to go. Don't tell the WDH manufacturers this though. They will soon be out of business.
aftermath 11/17/17 10:28am Travel Trailers
RE: Cat scale analysis. Question

It is nice to know that your combination tows nicely. That is huge. When you are dealing with a WD set up it is pretty important to get three passes over the scales. Follow the link that lawrosa included. I would like to know how your setup looks. Is everything level? Adding 1000lbs to the back while removing almost 400 lbs from the front does not sound right to me. You should always try to replace as much weight to the steer axle as possible. You asked "how much weight can I add?" Add where? Are you planning on loading up the bed of the truck or are you going to put extra stuff in the trailer? It will make a difference. What kind of WD hitch do you have? You can do an estimate by measuring the height of your truck above the drive wheels. When you connect the trailer adjust the hitch to return this height as close to the original as possible. Mine is something like 1.5 inches. Load the truck and trailer with what you will typically be using and get it weighed using the worksheet. There should be a weigh station close by.
aftermath 11/17/17 08:24am Travel Trailers
RE: Suggestions for improving towing in an F150?

Rhett, First of all, I think you should weigh your trailer to get the real readings. When you say "about" 800lb TW you might be surprised as to the real weight. My trailer has a GVW of 7500 and and a published TW of 800 or so. I have weighed my setup twice now and find the the actual TW is just a few over 1000 lbs. I have two batteries, two full tanks of propane and a spare tire on the tongue. I use an Equalizer and have set it up so everything is level. You probably can't return 100% of the weight to the front wheels and even Equalizer says so. They shoot for getting as close as you can. My trailer rides pretty nice but I did notice some "squishy" behavior on turns. I replaced the P Radials with some LTs and it made a huge difference. I think you should be fine by making adjustments to your hitch, getting LT tires and even upgrading your shocks especially if they are getting old. I am not a fan of air bags. If you are under your capacities you shouldn't need them. If you are not, adding air bags might just be masking other issues. How are your axle ratings?
aftermath 11/13/17 04:49pm Towing
RE: Newest newbie with a old-school PUP

You mentioned broken "helper" springs. I am assuming you are talking about the leaf springs. I just replaced a set on my '79 Starcraft. I purchased them locally. They were a perfect fit and I did the install myself. Not a difficult thing. As far as canvas goes, I would follow the advice of others here. See if you can sew it up first before you grab the duct tape. I have used tape in a place or two but usually only for very small tears. Canvas, real canvas, can get dirty. I would set it up and wash it with a mild detergent. Wetting it down again can get the canvas to swell up and seal out the water. If that doesn't work then I would look into applying some sort of waterproofing product. Check with a company that deals with canvas for ideas.
aftermath 11/13/17 04:33pm Folding Trailers
RE: Weight Distribution vs Sway Bars

I want to state once again that the add on sway control friction bars are used by many and do the job just fine. I never said they were junk I simply stated my position that I prefer the built in sway feature of some leading WD hitches. My brother probably did not read the directions. My comments came from watching him hook up one day. He attached the sway control and turned the crank handle. I asked him how much he had to turn it and he gave me this response that let me know it was sort of a guessing game. If he had read the directions he probably would have said something all together different. There is no adjustment on my Equalizer. All of the fine tuning comes in setting it up to get the trailer level and to return weight to the front axle. The pressure on the bars to level and then transfer weight is sufficient force to help prevent/mitigate sway. I am not saying that this is a better system it is just a better one for me. I really do feel as though they all work. Go with what you like the best.
aftermath 11/08/17 04:16pm Travel Trailers
RE: Weight Distribution vs Sway Bars

I am not a fan of the add on sway bar. Many use them and they do the job but it is just one more piece of equipment that I would rather not deal with. If you haven't got a hitch yet, consider one with built in sway control. I hook mine up and I am done. Nothing extra to add on and I know it is always there. My brother uses the add on sway bar. I asked him, "how do you know how hard you should crank it down, and how often do you have to remove it before backing up?" He told me that he removes it when backing up involves any tight turns. He cranks it down based on "whether or not I will need more friction". How would you know? He sometimes leaves it off saying that he won't need it on this trip. What? Again, too many extra things to think about.
aftermath 11/08/17 12:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Weight Distribution vs Sway Bars

As previously said you need to get 10-15% loaded to camp tongue weight. Then you need to get a wdh and equalizer. I now use a Reese Dual Cam which has the sway control built into it because of the cams. Best hitch I have ever used. The use of the word "equalizer" can be confusing. There are weight distributing hitches out there and there are anti sway bars too. These are two completely separate entities. There are also hitches that combing WD and sway control all into one. A popular brand of such hitch is an "Equalizer" but note that is a specific brand. There are also others like the Anderson and the Reese just to name a few. I agree with the others and you might want to have your trailer checked out first. Are the tires in good shape, are there problems with alignment and of course you should check the weight. Your tow vehicle might have some issues as well with weak and/or underinflated tires. Once these things are address I would also suggest you get a WD hitch with built in sway control. There are a lot of them out there to choose from.
aftermath 11/07/17 04:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: Why don't the manufacturers recommend LT tires??

...snip..... more LTs are being used. They are heavier and, as many might say, are less problematic. Are there any DOT statistics that support that assumption? The fact that one tire weighs more than another is not proof that it is better suited to any particular application....snip No data, no DOT articles to quote. I wrote to share my opinion only as to how I have seen the trailer towing community change over the 35 plus years I have been participating. When I said, "They are heavier" I was trying to parrot what I have read many times where the pro LT folks are eager to share. They don't blow out, they don't unravel, they are much more heavy duty, stronger, safer, are better in the heat and at high speeds and on and on. I personally am an ST user for all the reasons I read about many years ago. Everything changes. My STs are rated to 80mph and since I seldom go over 70 I have a nice cushion along with the E rated tires which give me plenty of load capacity beyond the GVWR of my trailer. Who knows what I will put on next time? Right now I am happy with my choice but I do understand why others want to jump to the LTs.
aftermath 10/27/17 10:23pm Travel Trailers
RE: Why don't the manufacturers recommend LT tires??

I really do appreciate the tone of this thread. I really don't like to hear that I am a fool for going with ST or perhaps LT tires. I think that there is a shift toward LT tires on trailers. Historically STs were the only ones considered. As time moved on trailers became heavier and there were more out there. With the increase of folks getting into RVing, there was in increase in the types that didn't have a clue about how trailers actually worked or even understood the concept of maintenance. I read a post by a fellow who purchased a new trailer and loved it. But, on his third outing which was a boondocking kind of thing he was concerned that his AC wouldn't come on. I wonder how much attention this guy was giving to his tires. Because we have heavier trailers that we want to drive at much faster speeds and we really don't want to spend that much time tending to the tires, it is understandable that more LTs are being used. They are heavier and, as many might say, are less problematic.
aftermath 10/27/17 09:55am Travel Trailers
RE: I Have Decided it Shall B Airstream :::

Try http://www.airforums.com/ Under the Classified tab at the top you can select from late model trailers to vintage.
aftermath 10/18/17 08:46am Travel Trailers
RE: went to the scales, what do you think?

Can you tell from these numbers if my WD hitch is set up correctly? No you can't tell because we don't know what the measurements were before you hooked up and before you engaged the WD hitch. From what you said about how nice the trailer tows you probably are just fine. Your numbers only tell us that you are not overloaded. It says nothing about how your WD hitch is adjusted. Without weighing you can estimate by looking to see how level your set up is when hooked up. You can also measure the height of the wheel wells before you hookup and after you engage the WD bars. Weighing will tell you how much weight is removed from the steer wheels and then how much of this is returned after engaging your WD bars.
aftermath 10/16/17 03:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: Airstream vs Lance

It is really hard to compare the two. They are entirely different and each appeals to folks in different ways. There have been a lot of very good statements made. I have a 2006 Airstream that we purchased used in 2009. Buying new was out of the question for us and we were able to get a pretty good deal on the used one. It is now 12 years old and we would be able to get very close to what we paid for it 9 years ago. Airstreams are small and that is a huge drawback for many. Mine has almost NO exterior storage. The inside is fine and the curved upper cabinets are not problematic as some would say. There are no slides and the cost is hugely discouraging. But, after 12 years the original home quality plumbing fixtures still work perfctly, all the doors close and the drawers are still functioning like new. My Starcraft white box that we bought new didn't last a year before stuff like this started to break or cause problems. I would second the suggestion about the Arctic Fox family of trailers. I have been impressed with the build quality in these. Don't have any experience with the Lance.
aftermath 09/27/17 03:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Traveling with long or short t.t.

Going to the Sun does not allow any combination longer than 21feet and wider than 8 ft. That basically keeps all trailers off the road. It is the main path from East to West in the park. There is a road that skirts the park that is open to everyone so you don't have to drive the G to S highway to get around the park.
aftermath 09/23/17 03:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: carbon monoxide/propane alarm

Here is something else to try. I was having trouble with mine as well. The classic alarm going off at 2 AM. I don't know how these things can tell when it is the middle of the night. I read the literature and mine says to press the "test" button regularly. I did this and haven't had a problem since. I test it when I dewinterize just once a season. The tech guy said that dust can build up, along with spider webs and other outside nasty things and the test sequence can clear these things out. If you have power to it you might want to at least give this a try before you replace it.
aftermath 09/23/17 08:59am Travel Trailers
RE: Good weight distribution set up

I'm going to go with the equalizer 1,200 and 12,000lbs bar. I believe you will be very happy with your choice. I have an Equalizer 10k for our 2017 Jayco 28RLS. Works great and rides nice. While lubing the socket pivot points after tightening the socket bolts to 65ft/lbs as per the owner's manual, I break all the rules of planetary alignment and smear a dab of grease on the L bracket surfaces as well. This works well for me in keeping it smooth and quiet while still offering me enough control to eliminate waggle from passing trucks. The right thing to do would be to install Bracket Jackets but I prefer a dab of grease. Others may need the full friction of dry L brackets as is recommended in the owner's manual. Hannibal, I do the same with my setup. Read on the manufacturers page that this is OK as long as you do it, "lightly". I have the 1000/10K set up for my trailer. I run down the road right at 6500 but my TW is pushing 900 pounds. I have dialed it in lightly to get the combination level and lube up the head and the L brackets. Mine makes no noise.
aftermath 09/20/17 09:32am Travel Trailers
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