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 > Your search for posts made by 'aftermath' found 47 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Trailer wheel balancing question.

I've bought and worn out dozens of tires on trailers and have never had them balanced. Now I have felt viberation at times especially when those tires on the trailers usually has 40k-50k miles. A simple visual inspection showed the tread belts were split and separating. Time to find out why the tires are suddenly causing vibrations. And also I've had wheel issues also causing vibrations such as split tire bead seat on the rim and cracked centers/loose lugs/etc. "Never had them balanced." Is it only a problem when you can feel it in the truck? By running unbalanced tires over a long period do you suppose that could have been part of the cracked centers, loose lugs, etc. that you referred to? Some facts here. An unbalanced tire will produce vibration while going down the road. Vibrations will be transferred to the vehicle. Lets not get into a discussion of a truck vs a trailer and how much vibration will be felt, vibration is vibration, degree not withstanding. Vibration over time will create some serious issues. How many threads do we read about people unhappy with their trailers when screws come loose "for no reason", cabinet doors don't close like they should, moldings start to separate, plumbing connections start to leak and on and on? I own an Airstream and the design creates special concerns for us. Shaking an Airstream will result in popped rivets, loose screws, open drawers to name a few problems. The skin is connected to the frame and acts like a unified body. Shake the wheels, you shake the entire trailer. It is imperative to reduce, or remove, shaking of the trailer. Balancing tires is not a perfect solution and that is why many use centramatics and those bead balancers after balancing their tires. While balancing tires is not perfect it is a good place to start and the cost is relatively small when compared to the cost of damages caused. After I took possession of my slightly used trailer I noticed drawers open after we got to our destination and a few popped rivets. I replaced the tires, made sure they were balanced and all those issues went away. You certainly don't have to balance your tires but it doesn't hurt. I guess if you can't feel it shaking then it must be just fine.
aftermath 06/18/16 10:17am Travel Trailers
RE: milage question

I keep an excel spread sheet of repairs and miles towed. It helps me remember when tires are replaced for example. Its also a great asset to have a complete repair schedule when you go to sell it. Or when it gets totaled and you have to verify what you did to it. X4 I really like doing this because it keeps me up on needed maintenance issues. How old are the tires? When did we replace the batteries? When do I need to pack the bearings again?
aftermath 06/18/16 09:41am Travel Trailers
RE: Suggestions on towing with 4.6L Toyota Tundra

I had the 4.6 in my 4Runner and towed a white box hybrid that weighed about 4800. It worked fine for that but on long hills I would often have to drop it down into 3rd to keep up the speed. Now I have the 5.7 in my Tundra and tow a trailer that is about 6500. The Airstream does tow nicely but the weight is still there. I usually travel in 5th but have had to go into 4th on really steep grades. The truck is not working nearly as hard and I get better mileage from the 5.7 than I did from the smaller engine. My brother has a Tundra with the 4.6 and he gets 8 mpg while towing his small toy hauler. I get 11 mpg with my setup.
aftermath 05/14/16 08:22am Tow Vehicles
RE: ??? on trailer tires

Did it give the load ratings? Use the single value and multiply it by 4 to see the total weight rating. Now compare this to your trailer's max weight rating. Your tires need to be above this rating. Run the pressure at the max. Failure to do so will increase the flexing of the tire which will increase the heat generated by the tire. It is the heat that causes bad things to happen. My suggestion is to get a known brand tire from a dealer you can trust and one who will stand behind (or in front of) the tires they sell.
aftermath 05/12/16 08:58am Travel Trailers
RE: Battery stink

I purchased a 2006 Airstream used in 2009. Airstream put a crummy single stage converter/charger in their trailers back then. Yeah, a big expensive trailer with a crummy charger. Go figure. The PO left the trailer ALWAYS plugged in. When he went out on location he always plugged it in. We showed up to check everything and it was plugged in. Everything worked and there was no smell from the battery compartment. After we got it home we found out it wouldn't hold a charge. The batteries, both of them, had been toasted. We replaced the charger with a newer three stage charger and everything is fine now. Yes, your batteries can be damaged so get them checked. But, my guess is that your charger is not working or that it is a single stage charger so it IS working and boiling your batteries. Let us know what you find.
aftermath 05/12/16 08:52am Travel Trailers
RE: I need first hand experience from you all...please

IMHO the biggest problem with trailer tires is abuse and neglect on the part of the owner. Yes, some brands are better than others but paying attention to your tires is a big part of it. Road hazards happen and there is not much you can do for the unexpected. First of all, your tires are under rated for your trailer. You should always use the max weight to determine the type of tire you need. A C range tire won't work. At 1760 per tire you are not even close to the 7700 rating of the trailer. Check the numbers on a D rated tire. Secondly, inflate the tire to the max on the sidewall. If the tire is low on pressure more flexing is going to happen which creates heat. Heat is usually what does a tire in over the long haul. Since you are a Washington resident you probably don't spend all of your time driving in the extreme heat. I would be more worried if I lived in places where they have to do this. TPMS is a good idea if you are interested. A good system will not only monitor the pressure it will also monitor the heat in the tire. Those who have lost tread but maintained the pressure would have been notified that things were going south when the heat alarm went off. I had Goodyear Marathons on my trailer. After 4 years they still held pressure, had lots of tread left but one had a bulge develop on the tread surface. I replaced them with Maxxis and so far so good. I have a 10% buffer over the Max weight rating of my trailer and I keep them inflated to 65. About 12 years ago I purchased a new trailer that came with Carlisle tires. They were just like yours in that the C rated tire could not handle the max weight rating of the trailer. Within the first year I had a blowout even though I monitored the tires and the pressures every time I went out. Upgraded to a heavier tire and never had a problem. At the time I would have agreed that Carlisle tires were really bad tires. But, much has changed and the new trailer tire from them is supposed to be much better.
aftermath 05/12/16 08:43am Travel Trailers
RE: Things I don't understand

Looks like this post is starting to slow down. I will try to keep it alive. But first, I don't think anyone really cares about any of this, we just don't understand why people do the things they do. I would never try to stop them, I enjoy watching from a safe distance. Here is another one I don't understand. Some folks out there refuse to open both propane tanks at the same time. They don't trust the crossover valve and don't want to have to get up in the cold to discover they are out of propane. They choose to open one until it runs dry and then get up in the cold dark night to switch over to the spare tank. If you check your tanks you won't have a problem and will be able to sleep through the nights just fine. We have expensive trailers loaded with technology to make "camping" rather cushy and yet we hesitate to use the trailer the way they were designed. Don't use the toilet, don't use the fridge while running, don't shower inside, don't use the automatic switch over valve are just a few examples. Do I care about any of this? No, I am just confused.
aftermath 05/05/16 10:31pm Travel Trailers
RE: Weight distribution with a single axle trailer?

The worst case of sway I ever witnessed was from a small, light single axle trailer. It was a rental from a military base. It was being towed by a half ton truck with the ball on the hitch and nothing else. I came up behind this guy going about 45 and he started to speed up. At about 50 I saw a small sway and it got much worse as he approached 55. He slowed down to 40 and it straightened out. I dropped back and followed until he turned off the road. The truck was sitting level so he didn't "need" any WD but he did need something for the sway. Some posters have said you won't need any sway control with such a light trailer but I would question that. Properly loaded, proper percentage of tongue weight and you are good to go. What about a passing semi, a gust of wind or an emergency maneuver at high speed? Hmmmmm, I think it is better to get a properly matched hitch that combines both WD and built in sway control. There are many good ones to choose from.
aftermath 03/15/16 11:29pm Towing
RE: Equalizer L Pins bent? Rivet washer size?

I have had two different Equalizer hitches on two different trailers. Both of them look much like yours do. I don't think you have a problem. That said, when I bought the Airstream the L pins were really bent. Scary bent actually. When I looked at the mounting directions downloaded from the Equalizer web page I noticed that the PO had located the L brackets in the wrong position. I can't remember if they were too close to the ball or too far away but they were not right. I adjusted the L brackets and purchased new L pins from equalizer. We have gone almost 30K miles and everything looks and behaves well. So, I am not sure if the problem was the location of the brackets or the actual pins but everything is good to go now. Get new pins and take a look at the location of the brackets.
aftermath 03/15/16 11:17pm Towing
RE: Towing "movement" - How much is normal?

Has anyone mentioned the trailer tires? Air them up to the max on the sidewalls as well. Running them under inflated for the load is a disaster just waiting.
aftermath 01/26/16 09:25am Travel Trailers
RE: New vs used TT

So, you are looking at two units, one new and the other one used. Since they both cost the same I would go with the one you like the best, end of story. Buying used is a good idea as long as the trailer has been taken care of. Any savings buying used can quickly disappear once you have to start fixing things. I bought my trailer used and saved a ton, but I didn't have many choices. I felt that the previous owner did not abuse the trailer but I found out later that he did neglect it. Some of my saved money went out the window but I am still ahead. Buying used can save you money up front but it is a bit of a gamble. If you save a lot of money then this is the way to go. If you are saving just a little, then look at the new one. Not much help huh?
aftermath 01/26/16 09:20am Travel Trailers
RE: TT for retirement use

I will second the Arctic Fox comment. I do not have one buy by cousin does and it is a very well built trailer and as solid as I have seen. It also is heavy which is probably why it feels that way. With your TV this won't be an issue. "Boondocking" means a lot of things to a lot of different people. If you are going to be living in it for 8 months at a time I would say get a big one, the bigger the better actually. If you plan to park in a place where you don't have hookups then I wouldn't get all worked up about clearance. My cousin's Arctic Fox has a lot of clearance, more than I like actually as I think there are 3 or 4 steps to get into the cabin. If you are going to drag this up mountain logging roads and out through the trees then clearance will be a big issue. I would never buy a trailer and then flip the axles unless that was all I could afford. Northwoods Manufacturing make a number of trailers that have cold weather advantages. Look for thermal windows and a covered insulated belly pan and ducted air. My cousin's Arctic Fox has a great AC system that keeps it cool and is very quiet.
aftermath 01/26/16 09:10am Travel Trailers
RE: as you have advised...

Not having the actual numbers in front of me I would say your take is correct. When planning for hitches and tires and TV capacities it is best to always figure the GVWR of the trailer, not the unloaded or partially loaded numbers. As I recall, this is what happened to me. The weight bearing tires were over when compared to the dry weight but not enough for the gross weight. All that said, some of the weight is placed on the ball of the TV so it isn't as clear as you might think. If you have the trailer, take it in and have it weighed. You will then know how much weight is sitting on the axles. When you get new tires make sure you have a buffer above the actual weight of your loaded trailer.
aftermath 01/26/16 08:58am Travel Trailers
RE: as you have advised...

I purchased a new Starcraft hybrid a few years back. It was a 21ft with a slideout. It came with load range C tires, Carlisle as I recall. I don't know the weight of your trailer but the problem with LRC tires is that they don't carry much weight. I had a blowout soon after I got the trailer. I watched the pressures and was not overloaded. It was cool outside and I had not hit anything in the road. The problem was that the tire was spec'd right at the dry weight of the trailer. I was overloaded as far as the tire was concerned. I was not overloaded as far as the trailer weights said. Point here is, I don't think the brand is as important as the load carrying capacity of the tire. I would trade them in and go up a category. Check the numbers on the tire against the max weight of your trailer and then give yourself some extra room. I have Maxxis on my current trailer and have been happy with them. Lots of miles in the last 4 years.
aftermath 01/25/16 07:54pm Travel Trailers
RE: Towing "movement" - How much is normal?

I agree with what CoolMom said. That and this..... On top of all the above, one more thing to consider, truck tires. Air them to max pressure when towing. If you have the stock P rated tires (= soft and squishy sidewalls) consider upgrading to LT tires. I towed a 21 ft hybrid with an Equalizer hitch and it was a very nice towing setup. I then bought an Airstream that was 5 feet longer and a full ton heavier. I also upgraded the hitch to a 10K/1K bar system. Got it set up nice and level but with the extra tongue wt I started to notice a little "squirm" at times. My Tundra came with P radials and even though I had them aired up, they were not as solid as I expected. Changed over to LRD truck tires and it really did make a difference. Lastly, watch your mirrors and it the trailer is moving left and right then you need to dial in the hitch.
aftermath 01/24/16 10:37pm Travel Trailers
RE: For those who have a small vehicle and love camping

Mark and Linda, There are many options out there for you. I suggest you concentrate on what you mean when you said, "we love to camp". Is your idea of camping crawling into the back of a closed up trailer and sleeping after you have removed all of the stuff you had in place? Are you staying put for any length of time? What does camping mean to you? Once you get this down, you will know what would work best for you. I am an old guy who started in a tent, then went to a tent trailer which was GREAT and we had it for 17 years. I pulled it with a 4 cylinder Mazda pickup and we went everywhere with it. A tent trailer of some sort would be my first choice but then, I am not you. Good luck with the search.
aftermath 01/24/16 09:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Silverado 1500... Enough?

I agree with what most have said except for the "go out and get a 3/4 ton" position. Your truck with pull the trailer just fine. The fact that it is a half ton will limit you to what you can take along. My numbers are quite similar to yours. I am going down the road at about 6400 and when the WD bars are in place my tongue weight is around 850. We travel relatively light when considering what I put in the truck so, even though we are close to the payload limit, we are comfortable. When you hear people tell you that you really need to get a bigger truck, or get a big truck with a diesel, they are coming at things from their prospective. Full timers have a need to bring more stuff than a weekender so it makes perfect sense for them to go big. Some have a few kids and a dog with all the extra stuff that that would entail. No so in our case. We have been out for a month at a time a few times. We put the gear and the food in the trailer and the bikes on the back. We sit in the seats and have a generator in the back along with a rug and some extra leveling blocks in the bed. Sometimes we also bring along some firewood, but not much. If you have towed your trailer with your previous truck, you will be fine with the new one. You know what you are getting into.
aftermath 01/24/16 08:59am Travel Trailers
RE: Dumping grey water

I believe that your take on this thread is an East vs. West kind of thing. Most (not all) campgrounds specifically prohibit dumping of gray water so common sense and respect would say not to do it. There are some places that don't speak to it and I have been in a few where the people in charge are glad to get some water to surrounding plants and bushes. "Dumping" as in simply emptying your tank right at the site is never a good idea. Running a hose out to the edge and into some bushes will do little harm and a lot more good in the end. If your gray water "smells" then you have a problem with your tank. We treat our black tanks but few treat the gray tank. If you are worried about the smell then take care of the tank. I use biodegradable safe chemicals in the gray tank. I walk through campgrounds all the time and see tent trailers with a bucket outside catching all the dish water. I also watch these campers take the bucket to the nearest bush and empty it. Tenters do the same and have been doing it for decades.
aftermath 01/17/16 09:33am Travel Trailers
RE: WD hitch question

Riley, don't get a hitch without built in sway control. If the dealer is willing to "throw in" such a hitch you might be able to negotiate a lower price on a better hitch. I too have an Equalizer and really like it. I have towed under all kinds of conditions and have never had an issue with sway. I think getting a good hitch is rather important. I would also suggest a Prodigy brake controller. Best wishes. You have lots of fun ahead. Congratulations on the trailer.
aftermath 01/16/16 09:04am Travel Trailers
RE: Newbie...So I Need Help with WDH

Borninblue, Just read this thread today and I have a headache. Too much verbiage for such a simple concept. I am towing a slightly lighter trailer with my Tundra and use the 10,000/1,000 Equalizer and it works great. Your 3/4 ton will not have any trouble with this setup. If your carrying capacity is around 2600 you will be fine. Think of it this way. When you are getting ready to go think of how much you will put in or on the truck. 1000 pounds of tongue weight brings you down to 1600 pounds. You, the wife and kids will most likely leave you with 1100 pounds. Wow, you still have a lot that you can load in the back. My Tundra leaves me only 1600. Once the trailer is on the ball and the wife and I are in our seats we have a scant couple of hundred left. We make it just fine and you will too.
aftermath 01/11/16 01:54pm Towing
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