campingman, this is from a retired winnebago dealership service manager, for 25 years, and now, a hwh traveling service tech for 15 years. with jacks, level first, then extend rooms, retract rooms then retract jacks.
if you have air leveling, read the owners manual. use common sense.
every manufacturer has a different technique, that said, having a level coach before extending or retracting a room is always best. you are not moving a square room inside an off square hole.
the main concern is that moving the room while not level may bind, or damage a seal. if you are reasonably level, without leveling, moving the rooms doesnt normally cause any damage. its only in extreme cases that i have seen damaged seals.
if in doubt, call the manufacturer. this forum is a good source of information. most people give basically the same info. some even consult that new unused unread manual in their owners packet.
the pump and control box assembly is under the entry step. you can see the control box from the front and under the motorhome. if nothing works, look at your grounds and battery connections. winnebago doesnt run the rooms with the control box, even though the wires run thru the box. they only pass thru for convenience of wiring. the 40 amp fuse for the system is located in a #10 blue wire connected to the master relay. download a service manual for your system and go thru the diagnostics. use the led location sheet in the manual. other than that, all you need is a 12 tester. check the two bolts that hold the pump to the mounting bracket. if they are loose, you could be losing ground.
people who have never done stupid things have not done anything ever. sooner or later you will do something stupid. you learn when you make mistakes. just hope no skin or property is lost in the process.
however, i have found that when i make a blood and skin sacrifice, the job seems to go better from that point.
rodz is right. its either the check valve or the retract solenoid for that room. problems with either part can cause the problem. normally, if its the solenoid, the room will come in about three inches, if its the check valve, it will be less. its easy to replace both parts. there is a diagram of the location in the service manual for slide rooms. the harness for the rooms is marked for each solenoid, either extend or retract.
if in doubt, replace both. the check valve is cheap enough. the solenoid will be about 182 dollars new. ask for remanufactured, its cheaper if they have any in stock. send an email to email@example.com include name address, phone number, as well as coach info, like vin, year make for warranty on the part.
they will call you back.
the power supply for the joystick circuit board is on the 6120 wire in the joystick harness. this is supplied thru a 15 amp fuse. the fuse should be the accessory fuse in the chassis fuse panel. not everyone uses that connection though.
there should also be a 10 amp fuse in the ground wire down by the pump ground connection.
if you have power to the fuse in the plate, check the power thru the switch to the circuit board. check for power to the three spring contact connections on top of the circuit board.
check the three springs on the underside of the plate. these may be bent out of position. make sure they straight up and down. next clean the contacts they make with the circuit board. use a pencil eraser. that works good. also clean the ring circuit board that the joystick makes contact with. these contacts get corroded sometimes. sorry to ramble, hope this helps
if the left rear is mounted so that it is facing forward when retracted, it is mounted wrong. that needs to be changed.
the only way any kick down jack will FALL down and contact the road, is for the springs to break, AND the jack to not be fully retracted. if the jack has been correctly retracted, even when dropped down, the foot is about 4 inches above the surface. the park brake has to be set for the pump to operate and extend the jack, so it would take some unusual circumstance for this to happen.
as always, fluid level will not affect hwh jack retraction. this is done with springs, and the light is turned on and off with a magnetic switch, or on older kick down models, a mercury switch.
the jack down light on the older jacks may be a mercury switch located on the back side of the jack. to check this switch just jumper the harness connection with a wire to close the circuit. the light should go off. if it does, replace the switch. the 100/110 service manual shows how to do the diagnosis.
first thing, download a service manual for your system. you cant do a good diagnosis without it. locate the control box, and check all the fuses. if all fuses are good, go to the pump manifold, and check to see if you are getting 12 volts to the solenoid for that jack. if you are, open the valve for that jack and try to run it down. if it goes down, and right back up, the solenoid is is bad.
the service manual can guide you thru the diagnosis. contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. i can help. i work for hwh.
careful with tightening the tee handles. if they are movable, and not corroded tight, they only have to be finger tight, not turned down with pliers. they tend to snap off.
there is, as doug said, an adapter and spring that goes between the pump motor shaft and the keyway on the pump assm. if that spring is missing,just use another one that fits. hwh can tell you what size. if the adapter is gone, its a major problem. more often than not, both are gone.
its often easier to buy another pump and motor assembly than to spend days looking for that part.
if there is no fluid moving from the manifold connection to the shuttle valve, there can be only two things wrong. either the pump has failed, or the end of the pump motor is not engaging the key way of the pump. the adapter may be missing or broken.
the only way you are going to find out which it is to do as doug suggested, and remove the pump motor.
you may be able to locate this part, but i wouldnt hold out any hope. the new pump assemblies do not use this adapter.
hwh is not stumped, its just that you need to do the diagnosis before spending that kind of money. all hwh can do over the phone is SUGGEST a solution.
only a hands on diagnosis will come up with the solution.
bty, when adjusting pump pressure, a 5000 lb pressure gauge should be used to get the correct pressure. harbor freight sells one for about 10 dollars. its fairly accurate. ive checked against some that were certified.
doug is right. unless you have a visible leak, its the solenoid. to test the solenoid, just press the touch pad enough to kick the jack down. you should not raise the coach any, since you will be under it, to open the solenoid. allowing the jack to kick back up should be sufficient for fluid flow to wash out any debris that may be in the valve.
download a service manual for your system off the hwh website. there is a diagram of the valve positioning on the manifold, so that you remove the right valve.
removing a valve normally damages the oring seals. if you do remove a valve, and reinstall it, you should also replace the two orings.
you can order a remanufactured valve from hwh, or, if you have time, send in your valve to be rebuilt. either way, send an email to email@example.com with your name and address, a brief description of your problem, coach information, and a phone number to contact you. they will call you, it takes a little time, but its normally much cheaper than buying a reman valve. even if its not repairable, the most you pay is reman price plus shipping.
flying j and the standard station on either side of the interstate in beaver have scammers working the pumps. (not saying these companies have anything to do with, they are very aware of it though) just be aware if you are approached, and they want to sell you something, its a scam.
good locks make good neighbors. there is an old southern saying "if you want to keep it, nail it down, if it can be pried loose, it aint nailed down"
i have a blackhawk 10k roadmaster towbar. i have it locked down tight. all my stuff is either bolted with nylock nuts, and/or locked. its not that i dont trust anyone, i just dont trust anyone when it comes to my stuff.
i had a 2012 travel trailer on craigslist for the past week. i had a scammer from georgia try to get me to use paypal, and a third party inspection. when i told him i would only accept a cashiers check, and would deliver the trailer myself, he disappeared.
i have sold the trailer, at a little under my asking price. it was at middle kbb price.
unemotional pricing, listing with good descriptions, and pictures, and, most importantly, negotiating honestly, with nothing left to the imagination is key to a successful sale. dont lie or over promise. both will cost you in the end.
acacia rv service in colton ca. greg is very capable, and reasonable in his prices. more than that, he knows what he is doing. i would use him anytime.
i have worked with him in the past, and i know he does great work.
hes right off I-10 in colton 1-909-824-9674
hwh tech sales rep
do yourself a favor. download a hwh service manual for your system and follow the diagnostics. did you recently have a control box replaced? the jumpers on the level sensor have to be set correctly for it to level right. there is a page that addresses that problem. check hose and wire connections. did someone work on your system recently? switched hoses or hydraulic wire connections can cause that problem the wiring diagrams will help to make sure connections are correct.
when you have to wrestle the wheel, thats too much. if your coach handles side gust well, go for it. but when it comes to high winds, there is nothing wrong being a few hours late for your funeral, which it could be.