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 > Your search for posts made by 'barlow46' found 28 matches.

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RE: Tag axle pressure

Adjusting it by the gauge in the engine compartment will work for an estimate but you really need to go to the scales and do your adjusting there based on your weights. Remember added pressure on the tag increases the weight on the front axle so check that weight each time you cross the scales. After you get it adjusted where you want, then take a look at the gauge and use it for a reference based on your load.
barlow46 09/29/14 08:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water pressure regulator

barlow46 08/17/14 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: CUM-ISC Lost second belt, stuck along freeway...driveable?

You also need to check the A/C compressor before you put a new belt on to make sure it has not locked up which may have caused the belt to come apart. More than likely the belt was just slightly loose and worn but there is always the possibility the compressor froze with the a/c clutch engaged. Did you have the dash A/C running when the belt came apart?
barlow46 08/06/14 06:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Multiple Keys

I think the answer is that motorcoach manufacturers get their doors, storage doors, etc. from a variety of manufacturers and each manufacturer has their own lock source. No sense in going into how thieves don't pay any attention to them anyway, they just tear open the compartments, etc.
barlow46 08/01/14 03:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Want a super clean windshield every day

2 gal. water (warm is best), 2-3 drops of Dawn Dishwashing Liquid, 3 - 4 squirts of Jet Dry liquid that you use in a dishwasher. Mix it good, use your scrubber to put it on and then use the squeegee. No rinsing is necessary.
barlow46 07/26/14 03:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: transmission was leaking but not now?

The E40D transmission is notorious for blowing fluid past the front seal when backing up a grade while it's hot. The seal usually survives though, and as long as the fluid is brought back up no serious harm is done. Had this exact thing happen to me when I had a 92 F350 7.3 and E4OD transmission. Was backing up a steep slope to a campsite and fluid poured out the seal. After it cooled off and refilled, no problem. I did have an external cooler on it also. Most of the guys on the 7.3 forum recommend Brians Truck Shop to solve the problem once and for all. http://www.brianstruckshop.com
barlow46 07/23/14 08:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A Malicious Act?

barlow46 The beer was a tall Henry Weinhard, and the CG Host said: Hey, that's what I drink, but he didn't think that he placed it there :-) Wonder if he had some "young" visitors on the day of the deed?
barlow46 05/15/14 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stuck in Jacksonville Florida

Take it to Mike Davidson Ford in Jacksonville. They have a large truck facility and they have worked on my F53 before. Some good advice here from Jim. http://mikedavidson.com/page/service-portal/Jacksonville-FL-Ford-Dealer
barlow46 05/10/14 08:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Buddy messed up...

Nothing works better than the "sniff test" before fueling. You might get a strange look or two but the the "nose" knows.
barlow46 04/26/14 08:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Genset Radiator

Phil, Just an FYI. I had the same 10kw quiet diesel in my Monaco and unknown to me the previous owner had it serviced and the servicing dealer overtightened the drain plug. Since this part of the radiator is a material made of a hard plastic, the over tightening cracked the housing that the plug went into. They tried to repair it with some type of epoxy but it only lasted about a year. When I bought the coach and changed out all the fluids, I found the crack as I had some seepage after refilling the radiator. I ended up buying a new radiator from Cummins Power South in Jax and they installed it. I don't have the invoice in front of me but I remember around 1800 for the radiator and the install. I think the radiator cost was in the $750-850 range. Find out if the leak is around this plug and when you replace it, take great care in using the proper torque to reinstall the plug or you may be back to square one.
barlow46 04/08/14 09:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: KwiKee Electric Steps

Thanks fischer. http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/875.pdf
barlow46 03/23/14 08:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need impeller for Sanicon

barlow46 02/22/14 10:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator replacement

Finally geting around to doing this. I talked to a rewind shop and he swears he can fix anything so once (or if) I get the generator out of the coach I will bring it to him and hope for the best !!! Is it difficult to remove? I'm somewhat handy, looks like an electrical connection, a fuel line and a few bolts but I might be over simplifying........ Hate to say this but I think you are about to make mistake number 2 with your rewind guy. At least take the generator to a Onan shop and get a correct diagnosis with exactly what is wrong and go from there. If your rewind shop guy is so good that he "can fix anything", then why can't he take it out of the coach.
barlow46 02/16/14 07:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Storing motorhome for a year

1. Do not cover or shrink wrap here in FL. Humidity will have your coach a "moldy" mess in a short time. John is right about the "kiss of death". Also, you can't run your roof top a/c with a cover. 2. Go to storage and run that generator at least once a month for at least an hour with the a/c running. 3. Buy some of the flexible thin cutting board type mats. You can get them at Bed/Bath/Beyond in a 4 pack. Put them down for your tires to set on. 4. One year should not be a problem, just check your roof every 3 months and especially after one of our summer downpours. 5. Pay attention to rodent dropping in your bays. If you see any, put out some traps. 6. If you have max-air vents over you roof openings, leave them barely cracked (1/2") to help release some of the summer heat. Temps inside will reach high 90's and even low 100's at times. 7. If you can, rotate the direction of the parked coach every month to help with keeping any sun damage consistent on both sides. 8. Get the fuel tank as full as possible to help keep condensation down and bring a 5 gallon jug of fuel and refill after a few monthly runs. The worst months here for humidity and mold/mildew buildup are July, August and September with September being the worst of all especially when the Atlantic hurricane season peaks. 9. You can also protect your windshield wipers with a wrap of sorts and some tennis balls split to put under the wiper arms. 10. Mud-Dobbers will attack your coach beginning in March, so make sure all opening have some stainless steel wool in them. They also love a/c rooftop units and if you don't run the fan motor, they will build their nests on the blades. 11. No worries about any salt air in central Fl unless you are within a few hundred yards of the ocean. No problems with any of our vehicle rusting out and we are within three miles of the beach. Vehicles from the North are much more prone due to the salted roadways. That's one thing we don't have to worry about. 12. Don't worry too much as one year won't destroy anything and you should be in good shape when you are ready to leave. Probably a few more things that I have missed but do on autopilot after living here for over 60 years. Good luck.
barlow46 02/16/14 06:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wi Fi security

Answer: Not Secure Here is some info on VPN in layman's terms. http://www.tomsguide.com/us/-vpn-network-security,news-17514.html
barlow46 02/11/14 08:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: wiring up 4 6 volt to coach on newmar

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm You can read the info from the link above complete with wiring diagram for four 6v batteries or you can google something like "wiring four 6V RV batteries" and get more examples.
barlow46 01/26/14 10:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cracked Exhaust Manifold

barlow46 01/14/14 09:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: engine coolant reservior

Before you do that, go over to the Monaco site and do a search for coolant reservoir and pressure caps. Most of those tanks are of a "nylon/plastic" type of material and are subject to rupture if pressures get to high. On my 05 ISL400 in a dynasty, the cap was 8 lbs as I remember. (now sold). In any case, at least give Monaco a call with your coach id number and ask what was original pressure cap supposed to be. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/
barlow46 01/10/14 03:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Driving a class A

Pay attention to the truck drivers where construction is going on. Sometimes the "lane switches" involve a swerve just before an overpass. You want to allow yourself plenty of clearance from the lane that runs close to the overpass support posts. The drivers usually know ahead of time and will move into the lane with the most clearance. They also will use the lane that gives them the most room when you run into the concrete barriers that line some construction areas. Just don't follow the truckers too closely as you will want some room for when they throw that "alligator" at you. Also, don't flash your brights at drivers to let them know they have clearance to move over after passing you. They know when they are clear and the light can temporarily blind them at night. If you must signal a driver, do so by turning your lights off and then back on.
barlow46 11/11/13 04:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: coach batteries

OK, seems I need to replace my coach batteries, 06 TS with 400 ISL. Words of wisedom as to brand, size, and any ideal of cost appreciated. Send an email to this company and see what they are charging for a Trojan T-105. If around $100-$105, the price is about right. We get them here on east coast of Fl for $99. I do not have any info on this company so check them out before buy if their prices are good. http://www.hodgsoncorp.com/products/trojan.htm
barlow46 11/03/13 09:13pm Class A Motorhomes
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