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 > Your search for posts made by 'barlow46' found 82 matches.

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RE: Onan Genset Radiator

Phil, Just an FYI. I had the same 10kw quiet diesel in my Monaco and unknown to me the previous owner had it serviced and the servicing dealer overtightened the drain plug. Since this part of the radiator is a material made of a hard plastic, the over tightening cracked the housing that the plug went into. They tried to repair it with some type of epoxy but it only lasted about a year. When I bought the coach and changed out all the fluids, I found the crack as I had some seepage after refilling the radiator. I ended up buying a new radiator from Cummins Power South in Jax and they installed it. I don't have the invoice in front of me but I remember around 1800 for the radiator and the install. I think the radiator cost was in the $750-850 range. Find out if the leak is around this plug and when you replace it, take great care in using the proper torque to reinstall the plug or you may be back to square one.
barlow46 04/08/14 09:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: KwiKee Electric Steps

Thanks fischer. http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/875.pdf
barlow46 03/23/14 08:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need impeller for Sanicon

barlow46 02/22/14 10:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator replacement

Finally geting around to doing this. I talked to a rewind shop and he swears he can fix anything so once (or if) I get the generator out of the coach I will bring it to him and hope for the best !!! Is it difficult to remove? I'm somewhat handy, looks like an electrical connection, a fuel line and a few bolts but I might be over simplifying........ Hate to say this but I think you are about to make mistake number 2 with your rewind guy. At least take the generator to a Onan shop and get a correct diagnosis with exactly what is wrong and go from there. If your rewind shop guy is so good that he "can fix anything", then why can't he take it out of the coach.
barlow46 02/16/14 07:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Storing motorhome for a year

1. Do not cover or shrink wrap here in FL. Humidity will have your coach a "moldy" mess in a short time. John is right about the "kiss of death". Also, you can't run your roof top a/c with a cover. 2. Go to storage and run that generator at least once a month for at least an hour with the a/c running. 3. Buy some of the flexible thin cutting board type mats. You can get them at Bed/Bath/Beyond in a 4 pack. Put them down for your tires to set on. 4. One year should not be a problem, just check your roof every 3 months and especially after one of our summer downpours. 5. Pay attention to rodent dropping in your bays. If you see any, put out some traps. 6. If you have max-air vents over you roof openings, leave them barely cracked (1/2") to help release some of the summer heat. Temps inside will reach high 90's and even low 100's at times. 7. If you can, rotate the direction of the parked coach every month to help with keeping any sun damage consistent on both sides. 8. Get the fuel tank as full as possible to help keep condensation down and bring a 5 gallon jug of fuel and refill after a few monthly runs. The worst months here for humidity and mold/mildew buildup are July, August and September with September being the worst of all especially when the Atlantic hurricane season peaks. 9. You can also protect your windshield wipers with a wrap of sorts and some tennis balls split to put under the wiper arms. 10. Mud-Dobbers will attack your coach beginning in March, so make sure all opening have some stainless steel wool in them. They also love a/c rooftop units and if you don't run the fan motor, they will build their nests on the blades. 11. No worries about any salt air in central Fl unless you are within a few hundred yards of the ocean. No problems with any of our vehicle rusting out and we are within three miles of the beach. Vehicles from the North are much more prone due to the salted roadways. That's one thing we don't have to worry about. 12. Don't worry too much as one year won't destroy anything and you should be in good shape when you are ready to leave. Probably a few more things that I have missed but do on autopilot after living here for over 60 years. Good luck.
barlow46 02/16/14 06:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wi Fi security

Answer: Not Secure Here is some info on VPN in layman's terms. http://www.tomsguide.com/us/-vpn-network-security,news-17514.html
barlow46 02/11/14 08:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: wiring up 4 6 volt to coach on newmar

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm You can read the info from the link above complete with wiring diagram for four 6v batteries or you can google something like "wiring four 6V RV batteries" and get more examples.
barlow46 01/26/14 10:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cracked Exhaust Manifold

barlow46 01/14/14 09:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: engine coolant reservior

Before you do that, go over to the Monaco site and do a search for coolant reservoir and pressure caps. Most of those tanks are of a "nylon/plastic" type of material and are subject to rupture if pressures get to high. On my 05 ISL400 in a dynasty, the cap was 8 lbs as I remember. (now sold). In any case, at least give Monaco a call with your coach id number and ask what was original pressure cap supposed to be. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/
barlow46 01/10/14 03:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Driving a class A

Pay attention to the truck drivers where construction is going on. Sometimes the "lane switches" involve a swerve just before an overpass. You want to allow yourself plenty of clearance from the lane that runs close to the overpass support posts. The drivers usually know ahead of time and will move into the lane with the most clearance. They also will use the lane that gives them the most room when you run into the concrete barriers that line some construction areas. Just don't follow the truckers too closely as you will want some room for when they throw that "alligator" at you. Also, don't flash your brights at drivers to let them know they have clearance to move over after passing you. They know when they are clear and the light can temporarily blind them at night. If you must signal a driver, do so by turning your lights off and then back on.
barlow46 11/11/13 04:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: coach batteries

OK, seems I need to replace my coach batteries, 06 TS with 400 ISL. Words of wisedom as to brand, size, and any ideal of cost appreciated. Send an email to this company and see what they are charging for a Trojan T-105. If around $100-$105, the price is about right. We get them here on east coast of Fl for $99. I do not have any info on this company so check them out before buy if their prices are good. http://www.hodgsoncorp.com/products/trojan.htm
barlow46 11/03/13 09:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Florida to Michigan

Richard, If you go back via I-75 stop over in Atlanta and stay at Stone Mtn. Campground, drive toad into Atlanta and visit Aquarium, CocaCola, CNN (all within walking distant), Fernbank museum is also close by the Aquarium area and worth a couple of hours. From Atlanta head through Knoxville and go to Lexington, KY and stay at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground. Drive over to Keenland Racetrack and wander around for a couple of hours, might even get to see some auctions. Also, make a visit to Rupp Arena and look for the "rocking chair". From Lexington head westerly to Louisville and then north to Indianapolis, Kalamazoo, South Bend and home. Plenty to do an see in KY. Google the "bourbon trail" in Ky and see if you might like a nice day trip. Edit: misread SE Michigan and I was thinking SW Michigan. We visit friends in Watervliet. Guess you could skip the Louisville to Indianapolis route.
barlow46 11/02/13 08:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tire pressure variance based on ambient temperature

barlow46 10/24/13 02:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coach Length

State parks in Florida have 40' sites but none larger. if you have a 45' coach it would be a site to site thing if one would fit or not. But I mostly travel around Florida and stay at state parks in my 40'DP and have few issues. I think most bigger coaches over 40' stay at high end resort parks as I never see any at State parks here. A few exceptions to the 40' sites. http://www.floridastateparks.org/gamblerogers/activities.cfm#12 http://www.floridastateparks.org/hillsboroughriver/activities.cfm#12 http://www.floridastateparks.org/pennekamp/activities.cfm#12
barlow46 10/17/13 07:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: diesel oil change

Freightguy, Does you Cat take 19 qts and you bought 24 qts to have extra on hand or does it take all 24 qts. that you bought? My ISL400 takes 26 qts and I'm thinking your Cat 350 may take the 24 qts.
barlow46 10/09/13 07:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: titleing in fla

barlow46 10/08/13 03:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: diesel oil change

This link will take you to Speedco. Their prices and service are usually very good. Click on the "menu of services" to see prices. http://www.speedco.com/Lube-Services_fd97c2.html The guy with the $48 oil change was probably driving a diesel pickup truck used with his fifth wheel.
barlow46 10/08/13 03:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Monaco Keyless Entry Pad Code

Just in case someone reading has been unable to locate the keyless entry pad code on their Monaco (possibly other RV's also), I thought I'd share my findings. I called Monaco and they suggested I look inside the locked compartment in front of the driver's side front tire. In the upper right hand corner, there is a white box with a label on the outside (some reference to Ford security system). There is a large printed 5 digit code on the label that is the code to unlock the coach. The standard code to lock the coach is to press the furthest two right pad buttons (7/8 and 9/0) simultaneously. I hope this helps someone out there in RV.net land. Another good reason to change you code. What year is your coach and if previously owned, then the owner left it at the factory setting? Changing the code is very easy using the button under the passenger arm rest for those coaches using the Essex system.
barlow46 10/06/13 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes

I think the real question here, Do we know how to handle a tire blowout? Firmly hold the wheel, maintain speed, turn off cruise control, move to safe place. I hope we (Men or Women) have the strength to hold the wheel straight. any other suggestions, please chime in. Terry. Most drivers that use cruise control just tap the brake to turn it off. Not a good idea if you have just had a blowout on a steer tire. When you hear that "explosion" and the steering wheel immediately pulls hard right or left, the last thing you are thinking of is turning off the cruise control using the button on the steering wheel. The pros tell us to accelerate slightly until you gain control and then bring it to a controlled stop....easier said than done for some. Cruise control can contribute to a bad situation in my opinion when experiencing a blowout. I have never been a big fan of cruise control and to this day don't use it as a rule when driving my vehicles. I realize that I am in the minority in not using cruise control but I find other benefits in not using it and in case of a blowout, it is one more thing I don't have to deal with. Just another opinion and in regard to the original post, I like to start out with my "own" set of tires and then I know how many hard hits I have had, how they have been stored and/or covered, correct pressures maintained, etc. Then I can determine if I want to chance the 10 years that can be obtained with proper care and use. When I bought used, I put new tires on immediately (6 yr old Goodyears that looked good except for the "riveting") and have never regretted that decision.
barlow46 10/06/13 06:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shower Dome Roof Leak

Your probably can take a good look and if you can get to the bad wood, go to a marine store and get the filler material such as "git rot" or similar. Here is a link to how it is used in boating industry for the do it yourself guy. http://boatlife.com/how-to-git-rot
barlow46 09/28/13 09:42pm Class A Motorhomes
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