A generic twistlock NEMA L5-30 receptacle, plug or connector body for the cord can be found at most good building supply and hardware stores. Finding a water tight version usually means going to a good electrical supply store or using the net.
Marinco makes marine NEMA L5-30 receptacles and the result is a somewhat water proof connection when used with a standard connector body. It just requires more pieces to setup a receptacle. My sailboat connection was corrided after a couple of years in a salt water environment, so they aren't the best.
We used lots of Hubbell twistlock, watertight connectors at work, up to 480 VAC three phase, thus my preference for them since they functioned so well in a wet environment. They can be found at Newark Electric, Allied Electric or other suppliers on the Net if you do a search.
btggraphix - I took your advice on my original post and sealed the edges of the insulation. You should still make the change when it gets warmer ;-)
Remove the Cord. Install a twist lock connector in the door opening and on the end of the cord.
I completely removed the interior uninsulated, sheetmetal cord box. More inside storage and warmer.
I choose to use a 30A, 125VAC, 2 pole, 3 wire Hubbell HBL2615SW male inlet receptacle mounted on a piece of 3/8" ABS in the existing opening as seen below (NEMA L5-30). A HBL 2613SW connector body was attached to the end of the cord. Connector body on the cord shields the contacts so you can't shock yourself if you have plugged in the other end of the cord. Provides a watertight connection.
The ABS mounting plate on the inside was 2" larger than the opening on the inside wall and sealed.
Elected to insulate the backside of the plate and used the cord anchor with another piece of ABS to hold the insulation in place.
More inside storage and warmer inside compartment.
You can also see the city water inlet has a 3-way valve used to isolate the inside water system from the outside during the winter. Blow out the water on this short leg so it there is nothing there to freeze. Do the same for the outside shower supply. Avoids broken parts that you have to replace in spring. We use full utilities during winter camping.
It is important to make sure whatever you use extends past the edges (sides) a substantial distance.
A 4x8 foot sheet oriented front to back will have crushed edges pretty quickly with your size of camper. Getting two 4x8 foot sheets and cutting them down so they fit across the bed will make them last longer and positioning the TC on top of them is less of an issue.
If you can find the 25 psi compressive strength (Owens Foamular 250) vs the 15 psi extruded polystyrene foam it will last longer. Available at most home building supply places
If you can find the Owen Corning Foamular 400, 600 or 1,000 (40, 60 or 100 psi compressive strength) or equivalent under slab XPS foam from Dow it will hold up even better. Hard to find at big box places, talk to a concrete contractor to see if he/she has a few extra pieces that they will part with.
2x "BUY GREAT TIRES"
I run studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta. The studless tires have come a long way but for the transition zone before you get to nice compact snow, the studded, sipped, soft rubber compound version has more traction in the black ice situations. The truck TC combination handles slush really well.
Like everyone says slow down, no lateral g's when cornering. Smooth inputs to the accelerator, brake or steering wheel. Try and straighten out the curve on that icy overpass or bridge.
I like driving late at night up to a ski resort. Less traffic. DOT has a chance to sand the road and you know it is below freezing, so there is no question that what was water is now ice. Drive accordingly. At night it is also easier to see the edge of the road or the snowplow pile in a blizzard with good fog lamps, whereas during the day it is all just a white out.
Going uphill isn't an issue with 4WD and the TC in the back
Going down hill under most conditions I leave my exhaust brake on. However if it is really icy or if it is raining on compact snow I'll shut it off and use the brakes lightly to slowly descend.
I also carry dry sand in old gallon container in the truck. I use it in the situations where I'm forced to stop going uphill because cars have lost it and blocked the road, making hard for me to restart. I just open the lid and make a 6 foot trail in front of each tire, you don't need to use much. I then walk up and do the same for the car that tried to pass the mess and is now blocking the lane. That gets them going and out of my way so they can put on chains and I can get going without having to resort to chains. The lidded container seals the sand up nicely after you use it and keeps it dry, unlike a bag of sand that gets everywhere and wet.
Snowy roads are easy to drive on if you are prepared and there is no reason to be drifting sideways in your TC. Even icy roads can be navigated safety with a combination of good equipment, good technique and judgment. If it was an east coast ice storm I'd stay home or wait at the resort until things got better, as I always carry extra supplies.
If you are winter camping more in the dead of winter, have a contingency plan for various things that go wrong. Propane autoswitch valves not switching, furnace running a lot more and draining a marginal sized battery bank or old batteries, or getting stuck at a resort due to a road closure.
If you are at a resort and get a big winter storm, a shovel is really nice, as is a safe way to clear off the roof near your vent. Once more than a foot of snow is on my roof the warm air coming out the bathroom vent makes a chimney in the snow, unforturnately the warm air from the black and gray tank vents do the same and join together to make one big smelly chimney. This less than pristine air then comes back into your TC when you turn the fan off, unless you clear that section of the roof.
Spend time this fall insulating and sealing openings (the air conditioning and stove vents are just big holes to the outside. We can go about 4 days on a tank of propane with the camper at 70F inside when it is -10F outside. Makes my girlfriend really happy. We run the propane while traveling so the camper stays warm and doesn't get a chance to cool off. We don't winterize and enjoy using water. The pleasure of being comfortable and warm while parked at the base of a chair makes one forget about the worries of the drive up.
We ski about 70 days a year and have visited over a hundred ski resorts in our TC without going off the road, nor drifting out of control. We still have a lot more to explore. There are at least 241 ski areas in the western US and Canada so think about a winter road trip when you get tired of skiing on icy east coast slopes. Just carry a PLB, as out here there isn't great cell phone coverage if something happens.
We went with a clone by Xtend & Climb called a Stable Step. Instead of the Little Giant 10310BA Safety Stepladder with Bar and Tray, 3-Step. It was about 20% less at a local hardware store.
The best thing about these step ladders is that the rise / run and depth of the tread are more like a normal stair. See the images on the Little Giant website. We go up and down them in ski boots during winter camping, something I'd never do with a typical scissor step.
These jumbo step ladders come in 2, 3, 4, or 5 step versions from the various companies (top stair height can be figured at 9" height per step). Another clone is provided by Space Living called a Jumbo Step. They are very stable. They fold very compactly and are light. Well worth the money.
Don't worry about the bar, or if included the tray, as these fold down if you want to enter the TC head on as shown below.
National Caster (aka Service Caster Corp) has 12" pneumatic casters, 3.5" wide with 450 lbs. rating. They also have a 3" wide semi-pneumatic with a 850 lbs. rating. They offered good advice over the phone when I was trying to choose casters for my dolly
They have a 4 position lock option (every 90°) for their full swivel casters . Locking the front two, while leaving the two near the tow bar free, makes maneuvering much more controlled. I lock all the casters on the dolly to push it sideways. You can see an example of their position locks on the casters I chose in the photo below.
You can see the CURT Adjustable Tow Bar (#19745)
that I added to make manuvering it more controlled. My dolly was made to handle my 4,200 lb camper so it is a little bigger than what you need (scabbed 2x10; 2,000 lbs. capacity casters).
You can also see the Sea Dog 1/2" eye nuts I got fromFisheries Supply, a marine supply store. These are in each corner on the sides to make pulling the camper side ways easier. They were significantly less than an extra pair of Curt tow bar brackets.
Next time you have your jacks apart you might consider extending the orange travel limit indicator all the way around the jack leg. I used day glow orange paint.
Originally they are visible only when standing in front of them, and not from the back of the truck where I raise and lower them using the keypad.
There are a lot of great threads on winter camping in the TC university and forum on this site and the modifications people made so they were comfortable.
For our TC:
Sealed and insulated as much as possible (Acrylic storm windows, reflectex over other windows, AC, skylights, hatches) to keep as much heat inside the TC.
Did what we could to have more battery capacity. Added more battery capacity so the furnace can run multiple days at -10F to keep the TC warm. Bought AGM batteries that charge faster off a generator, can be inside the camper (warmer batteries have more capacity), aren't damaged if frozen when discharged. Converted to LED lighting to use less energy.
Added 2AWG wire from the truck back to the TC to provide non-battery power to the furnace while driving and re-charge the TC batteries.
Use the generator to recharge the batteries, run an electric heater in the basement, run the electric blanket to pre-heat the bed for my girl friend.
Changed to a closed cell latex foam mattress. Warmer, water vapor impermeable and not prone to mildew
After those changes we can comfortably stay out 5-7 days at temperatures around 0F with internal temperature in the 70's when we are inside and the 60's during the day while skiing or sleeping. Batteries last 2-3 days before needing charging. 20 lbs of propane lasts 5 days. Gray tank fills up in about 5 days. Black tank 7 days. Out of water by 7 days (a 20 gallon tank).
Winter camping requires backups, contingency plans and knowing what your capacities are for your TC, as well as having your truck prepared for most cold weather situations. We have two 20lb propane tanks, carry enough gasoline to run the generator (synthetic oil for easy starting when cold) for days to run electric heaters we carry, if the propane furnace fails (the regulator freezes, the autochange over valve fails); we carry down bags, if it all fails. Still on my list is a diesel fueled forced air heater in the basement.
We approached winter camping slowly, used wireless thermometers to see how cold things got at various points inside the TC before we put the water system at risk. Used the battery monitor to figure out how many Amp-hrs are used keeping the camper at various inside temperatures at colder outside temperatures. Determined how much propane was used to achieve those temperatures at various outside temperatures. Actual data, is always better than opinions of what would work for your specific TC.
From the specs on your camper it appears you have a single 30# tank. How far down are you willing to go before you refill it? How will you know? What if the low temperature for the night is much lower than expected? A lot of this can be figured out safely in front of your garage. If you are wrong, you can always run electrical heaters after a low temperature alarm goes off.
The entire interior of my sailboat, the bulkheads, galley and table are made of ultralight weight, 3/8" thick fiberglass reinforced phenolic honeycomb panels that are commonly used in airplane floorboards and galleys (the latter is lighter). Since Airbus is manufacturing in Alabama, you might check what they have surplus.
An epoxy putty was used to fill the edges of the panel, give a rounded edge and then a two part poly ureathane paint was used to finish the job.
Compression strength in the 100's of psi, shear strength around 1,000 psi and a 4'x8' sheet weighs less than 10 pounds, very little deflection when loaded. Amazing stuff