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 > Your search for posts made by 'beemerphile1' found 970 matches.

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RE: Generator Exaust

Thanks for all the input, I've been weighing installing solid pipe all the way up, much hotter I know, making my own.... Do not simply extend the exhaust pipe any distance, it will cause a lot of back pressure. The Gen-turi and home made replicas do not cause back pressure.
beemerphile1 07/26/16 08:47am Tech Issues
RE: Who was this?

Here is one of the post that talked about a conversion. Converting my dully to a 10 wheel drive to handle Toyhauler Made it clickable for you. If I remember correctly after all that work he couldn't pass inspection and get it registered for street use.
beemerphile1 07/26/16 08:35am General RVing Issues
RE: Who was this?

I believe the thread referred to was in the toy hauler section.
beemerphile1 07/26/16 05:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Air Conditioner Test

Was just in Oklahoma where the top temp for the days was 99 to 100 I believe. The highest the camper got in the middle of the day was around 78 with both ac's running. Pretty close to 20 degree difference we expected.... Many people seem to misunderstand the 15 - 20 degrees. It is intake air and exhaust of the unit, outside temperature is irrelevant. If the intake air is 95 the air coming out should be 75 to 80 degrees. As the room cools the intake air obviously is cooler, so when the intake air is 75 degrees, the output should be 55 to 60 degrees. What the OP doesn't realize is that he has a problem with his unit resulting in the very low temperature output. What is happening is that due to defective separation of the intake and output, it is cooling the same air over and over again. The baffle between the intake and output needs fixed. Ha Ha, If I have a problem with my unit I'm happy for the problem. It works well. See my second post. I'm glad you are happy but the premise of this thread is that your A/C unit disproves the rule, it does not. In fact, your test proves that your unit is operating inefficiently due to inadequate separation.
beemerphile1 07/26/16 05:50am General RVing Issues
RE: "Stuck" in Ohio - Workhorse W22 stalls going into gear

...The mechanic...drove it around for 32 miles and had no issues...maybe that was a freak thing. Unfortunately freak things tend to repeat themselves at the most inopportune times. Hopefully it won't happen again.
beemerphile1 07/25/16 10:09am Tech Issues
RE: Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC.... There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator. sorry about the missunderstanding. However, how about adding the second alternator?? the bracket is already there, and changing the serpentine belt to the dual alternator would let you drive it. Might be easier to set up than the factory dual alternator setup. Nah, I have an extra inverter and cables. There is no reason to go to the added expense and complexity of adding an alternator.
beemerphile1 07/25/16 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditioner Test

Was just in Oklahoma where the top temp for the days was 99 to 100 I believe. The highest the camper got in the middle of the day was around 78 with both ac's running. Pretty close to 20 degree difference we expected.... Many people seem to misunderstand the 15 - 20 degrees. It is intake air and exhaust of the unit, outside temperature is irrelevant. If the intake air is 95 the air coming out should be 75 to 80 degrees. As the room cools the intake air obviously is cooler, so when the intake air is 75 degrees, the output should be 55 to 60 degrees. What the OP doesn't realize is that he has a problem with his unit resulting in the very low temperature output. What is happening is that due to defective separation of the intake and output, it is cooling the same air over and over again. The baffle between the intake and output needs fixed.
beemerphile1 07/25/16 09:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC.... There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.
beemerphile1 07/25/16 06:29am Tech Issues
RE: Realistic Grand Design Pricing

Keep in mind that there are a lot of options available on the Momentum. There can easily be $10,000 in options on one that are not on another. You must be sure to compare apples to apples.
beemerphile1 07/25/16 06:23am Toy Haulers
RE: How many amps to run AC

I burned up my A.C. running on 20 amp was not cheap I don't deny that your A/C burned up, I don't know. However, I can guarantee you it was NOT because it was on a 20a circuit. Look in the RV breaker panel, your A/C is always on a 20a circuit. A/C units are damaged by low voltage. You can have low voltage on a circuit of any amperage. Ever hear of a brownout?
beemerphile1 07/22/16 11:41am Travel Trailers
RE: A/C and All-Season

A 30' trailer with a single A/C unit? Definitely go with the optional 15K. Many RVs that size have two or even three A/C units. An "four season" RV will have the tanks and all valves located inside so the furnace protects them from freezing. Some also have heaters installed on the tanks.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 09:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Water pump question

The pump is usually located in a cabinet or behind a panel. The pump is silent but can cause noise due to vibration of the pipes. There is a pump silence kit you can buy for around $20. If it is pulsing there is probably an adjustment screw in the head of the pump.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 09:23am Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditioner Test

Like others said, the normal test for any A/C unit, home, car, or RV is a 15 - 20 degree temperature drop between the intake and exhaust. ...the temp probe read 55 degrees. The temperature in the TT had dropped to 92 degrees.... If you are reading a substantially larger variation than the 15 - 20 it is because you need to fix the baffle between the intake and exhaust. It is cross contaminating a large amount of air and operating very inefficiently.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 09:18am General RVing Issues
RE: Memories of your very first trailer camping trip

Too many years ago to remember. In essence, I have been camping by one means or another almost my entire life. I never get tired of it even though I have a nice home in a somewhat rural/suburban area with a huge yard.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 09:09am Travel Trailers
RE: How many amps to run AC

All RV A/C units run on 20a. Look at your breakers. Running more than one A/C unit or a lot of other things at the same time can get problematic.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 09:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

Allstar Terminal Connectors seem to be the ones commonly used for tow truck cable disconnect systems, they accept a maximum of 6 gauge wire. Anderson Powerpole has connectors that take 1/0 and connectors that take 3/0.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

Okay, you've convinced of what I already expected. The permanent installation in the engine compartment isn't a great idea. I think I will go with plan B, use plug in connectors and store the inverter elsewhere when not in use. I will consider the Powerpole connectors and look into tow truck accessories. I have seen connectors permanently mounted in the grille of trucks but didn't pay much attention to them. I won't be putting connectors in the grille though. I have the factory inverter and an additional 400 watt inverter inside the passenger compartment already. I do not want to run 20' or more round trip cable for the 2,000/4,000 watt inverter. Battery powered tools are great and I have a dozen or so, but they cannot do the work of real 110v power tools.
beemerphile1 07/22/16 06:46am Tech Issues
Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

I would love to install an inverter under the hood of my 2016 3500HD D/A. Unfortunately the engine compartment is so packed I can't find room. I have the 220 amp alternator. Unfortunately it appears that the only place with enough room would require it to sit on top of the engine compartment fuse box. To mount the inverter elsewhere in the truck would involve long heavy cable to power a 2,000/4,000 watt inverter. I am not looking to power the RV, just the occasional chain saw or power tool. I have done it but had to bolt the cables on and then unbolt. As a last resort I have considered using Anderson Powerpole connectors but I would really love to permanently mount it. I would like to avoid storing the inverter elsewhere and installing when needed. Any ideas? Anyone done something similar?
beemerphile1 07/21/16 01:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Extended Stay

The tires are exactly where the weight is supposed to be located. There is no need to do anything. Your tires are aging out due to ozone and the sun, the best thing you can do is leave them on the ground but cover them.
beemerphile1 07/21/16 11:39am Toy Haulers
RE: Cooling Unit Out of Order

Your 1993 has already depreciated as much as it ever will. At that age the condition is what matters, not the year. How did you determine that it needs a new cooling unit? Are you just guessing? There are only two things that can go wrong with the cooling unit, they leak or they get plugged.
beemerphile1 07/20/16 01:11pm Tech Issues
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