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 > Your search for posts made by 'bigfootford' found 177 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Propane heater

I have had the wave3 for 4+ years. We travel, boondocks/dry camp almost 100% of the time. We do lots of winter trips... Humid or dry weather. I track the internal humidity v/s outside.... Even with the wave the inside is always lower than the outside and that is with the vent cracked open and a couple of windows open 1/2 in or so. It's really nice to have fresh air even in the dead of winter. I have found that inside humidity is higher if I close the camper up, no windows/vents open and we stay in the camper all evening and night. Just us breathing. I have 2 CO detectors... one has a PPM readout. Never has it registered even 1 PPM in all these years when using the Wave3. OH, if I do not open vents in the AM (summer or winter) when making coffee I will get a reading.... PPM... Think the highest I saw was 40....I forgot to open a vent. Here's how I installed my Wave3: http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lAsuwHaXHEs/S0K_hmIkWPI/AAAAAAAAAc0/8ME6z3BwOK0/s800/100_2814.JPG Here's the link to my install! http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23544764.cfm http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23544764.cfm I will add this, a Buddy heater is not a Catalytic heater, it is a ceramic type heater. Either the Platinum Catalytic or the wave is an excellent choice. Some of us can not install a Platnum Cat due to the need to vent it. It also relies on 12vdc to run... They both have their pluses. A wave3 running on low, 1600btus are used each hour... There are 92,xxx BTU's in a gallon of propane.... You will use 1 gallon of propane in about 60hrs.... We run ours on low 99% of the time. The max Btu's for the Wave3 is 3000. A Platinum cat can be controlled with a thermostat! Pretty cool. Read Sleepy's thread. The Btu's are set at 3000 for the small unit and 5200 for the big one. It is great to have the door open in 20 + deg weather and still be warm in the camper... Radiant heat V/S blown hot air! Jim
bigfootford 10/01/14 02:42pm Truck Campers
RE: getting the fridge ready for a trip

Yup, the refrigerator PC board, ignitor and propane solenoid are all 12 VDC powered. Should be off the house battery bank. So OP should make sure his battery is in good shape and fully charged.. Make sure all unnecessary 12vdc items are OFF. Fridge and safety devices, propane, CO etc will pull about .5 amps when the fridge is cooling. Once the fridge is cooled down figure on .2 amps.. .5 amps an hour = 12ah for a full day of initial cool down. Jim
bigfootford 09/27/14 11:35am Tech Issues
RE: Freezer to cold

Those wireless thermometers are great. Ordered a set from Amazon. Didn't work. Sent back no hassle and fortunately decided to order replacements. This set is faultless. It's good to re-set the High/Low feature once the fridge has cooled down. So far, bought 5 sets, 2 for us and 3 for christmas presents.. They all still work. Found that the tab for the + battery lead can be just a little shy of making good contact. Found that on one transmitter. I keep a log of fridge temps along with all aspects of solar charging/amp hours/battery voltages etc.... I reset my fridge thermometers daily for hi/lo. A great feature! Jim
bigfootford 09/27/14 09:57am Tech Issues
RE: Freezer to cold

What refrigerator do you have? Most RV/absorption refrigerators have the thermostat in the refrigerator only. And, yes if you have a question about temperature in either refrigerator or freezer, put a thermometer in and verify actual temperature. True... If you want your freezer compartment get colder leave the fridge door open for a while.. Opening it and getting a cold beer every hr will further cool the freezer compartment. I have dual wireless temp transmitters to monitor fridge temps House and Rig. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41kGF%2BVk2uL._SY355_.jpg They work like a champ... Jim
bigfootford 09/27/14 09:37am Tech Issues
RE: getting the fridge ready for a trip

I use shore power to do the initial cool down and leave it on that mode until we are ready to go. I do make it run on propane for an hour or so to make sure that function works! No surprises when you are firing up the truck, ready to go. I always run the hot water tank and furnace too for a bit just to make sure they operate. I Keep a gallon ziplock bag full of ice cubes in the house freezer. I put it in the freezer compartment of the rv's fridge... That helps a lot. Also put 5-6 cans of soda pop or beer in the tray below the cooling fins of the fridge compartment. This get's the fridge cool quite quick.... I do not know how long it takes. I always start the fridge up on the day before leaving. As for how long a 40# tank will last. Our fridges take about 1000btus/hr when cooling.. If the fridge is in the process of cooling down it will use about 24,000 btu's (24 hrs). There is about 92,000 btu's in a gallon of Propane. Easy math eh? Rounding you can figure the initial cool down will take about 1/3 gallon. A 40# tank holds about 4 gallons. Depends on the fella filling... After the fridge has cooled down the big variable will be the outside temperature. At around 100deg I think the fridge is in cooling mode almost 100%... So 1 gallon every 3 days... At around 70 deg maybe it runs a little less than 1/2 of the time... You do the math. Jim
bigfootford 09/27/14 09:27am Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel install? Newbie

Picture posting is quite easy with this little program that an RV.net member wrote. You do not need to have pictures on picture trail or other picture web's. Just drag/drop pictures from your computer and have at it... Practice doing it.. Start a thread but do not post it...just play with it. When you drop your pictures and have your thread ready, view it by clicking the little box above that has the magnifying glass and paper in it, next the the ABC (spell check). Book mark this one! https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/201045551/Forums/PhotoUpload/RV.NET-Photo-Upload.html Tech thread for picture posting and a link to what I wrote above. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15775751.cfm Jim
bigfootford 09/26/14 11:01am Truck Campers
RE: put my 19.5s on today

From a 19.5 tire thread to a trip report... So where does it end? Jim
bigfootford 09/16/14 09:29pm Truck Campers
RE: Progressive Dynamics 9260 possible issue

Ok, after running the trailer on my Kill A Watt for 2 days, here are the draws I see: Wattage fluctuates between 16.5 and 17.9W .29 A .47 PF 34.7 V/A at. $.11/KW, it's costing me about 16.38/yr to maintain the batteries. Not a huge expense, but it might be worth using the battery minder during the winter to cut down on electrical usage. When I put a larger appliance on, the PF goes up to .99 (fridge, etc). Thanks for all the advice in this thread, I sincerely appreciate it! So our Progressive Dynamics are quite close at idle/float. Watts vary between 15-20 Amps varried a bit... .19 - .26 If your battery minder does not go into boost mode every day or so I would not use it for storage. Jim
bigfootford 09/15/14 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: “NOOB” questions about how TC electronics work?

... Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.Certainly an option. Please post when you fail to switch to LP, and discover your truck battery is dead. Wayne OH NO! I def. don't want to do that! I "think" I have an isolator though that would keep the camper from draining the truck batteries right? But still allow the truck to charge them. Isn't that what an isolator does? Check your PM's. Jim
bigfootford 09/15/14 08:21am Truck Campers
RE: Older Bigfoot Taillight question

Led running lights have come a long ways. Normally your trucks Alternator is going to put out max 14vdc.. Our converters run between 14.4 and 14.8 depending on the make... That does stress some of the cheaper interior leds.. I always recommend regulated leds for the interior and a good non for the exterior. Lot's of evaluations of led's over in TECH if in doubt. Jim
bigfootford 09/14/14 07:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Older Bigfoot Taillight question

Our new Bigfoot is a 2003 25C9.6. We have the two piece square tail lights with the outer being the running light/brake/turn. The inner has a red outer and clear square center for backup. On braking only the outer light comes on, thI would think e inner only seems to light up on backup and the red outer ring never comes on. that both should light up. Question is how should they work? Could someone with a Bigfoot of about this vintage and taillight arrangement go see how theirs operates for me. Thanks Our Bigfoot is a 2000 25c9.6 like yours... Lights work exactly the same as yours... The backup light glows red along with the white/clear lens. The combo color lenses are not partitioned to do what you think it should.. The outer solid red glows for parking and bright for brakes... 2 elements in one bulb. The backup light are single element. Jim
bigfootford 09/14/14 12:21pm Truck Campers
RE: put my 19.5s on today

We recently finished 8,000+ miles from Sacramento, up the Dalton Hwy to Prudhoe bay and on the way home we came back via "Top Of The World" highway.... We towed a trailer for the Son's bike equipment and spare tires for the trailer and truck... The tires and truck took a pounding... Those 19.5's are very comforting! https://lkpzpq.dm2303.livefilestore.com/y2mBXHpyMhQeN6H8kQnaSDr8JrkO-Xh1vsyEoUnyY1ste8cMS1rzDgK5YLlblLCG8ICFNdiDKr9iTKC7-JLvYHIfbBrhGe-HK8rAPp3UAfg8DoDeyYD5mf683Pp7Q__wU-H/100_1754.JPG?psid=1 height=640 width=640 Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 05:58pm Truck Campers
RE: Progressive Dynamics 9260 possible issue

To verify that my KWmeter is working I did a standalone test with a 60 watt bulb. .48 amps 57.9 watts 119.8vac So the math for a bulb is .48X119.8 is 57.5 watts... Thats close enough to say the meter is working pretty good. Interesting that the PD plays a bit with the readings of the KWmeter. Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Progressive Dynamics 9260 possible issue

Thanks again for all of the great information - it sounds like this has sparked a great conversation. I'll put my kill a watt on mine this weekend and report back on the consumption (which I probably should have done first). Bigfoot - doesn't a 20 watt continuous pull sound high for a converter that shouldn't be working or charging? There is always a trickle charge at 13.2 sleep mode... from the PD. I see about .05 dc amps going into the batteries... Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 12:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Progressive Dynamics 9260 possible issue

I'm trying to understand your measurement: 0.3amps/20 W. Are both measurements from the Kill-A-Watt? 0.3A * 120V = 36W; not 20W. Is the difference in wattage due to the power factor? Is the power factor 20W/36W = 0.55 (at no load)? What does the electric company charge you; 20W or 36W rate? Only thing running is my CO and LP sensors... .3 amps/20watts...=480watts a day. So every 2 days or so a Kw is used. I took the national average for KWH charge which is about $.122 and rounded it to .12. My average is about .13. The PF reading on my Kwmeter reads in the .56- .58 range. Reconnected the meter and let things set a bit.. Watts vary between 15-20 Voltage varries a bit 117-120... Amps varried a bit... .19 - .26 The source of AC is from the main to our pool pumps, then 10 ga for 40 ft and a 20ft 12 ga extension. So this is not a perfect source of AC... Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 12:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Progressive Dynamics 9260 possible issue

Just checked my 8 year old 9260, my batteries are fully charged. Used a Killowatt meter. Only thing running is my CO and LP sensors... .3 amps/20watts...=480watts a day. So every 2 days or so a Kw is used. So if my average KWH cost is $.12 then my monthly cost would be around $1.80... That I will not worry about. Have to consider the 15 min of boost every 20hrs too into that equation also. In float mode, 13.2vdc there still will be some current flow into the batteries so I consider these readings within tolerance..
bigfootford 09/12/14 10:19am Tech Issues
RE: put my 19.5s on today

Another Vision/19.5 TC'er here too. Have about 30K on them now... I have Michelin 19.5 xds M&S's the only bad is they do sing. Great traction and stability. Have not noticed the grooved road wander thing. Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 09:44am Truck Campers
RE: Ethanol in small engines

I am not taking up for ethanol and I fully believe that mpg goes down when using it, after all ethanol has much less energy content than gasoline. Just Google it for links. What I question is if it actually causes damage. This thread is full of reports about tests or experiences but I don't see many links to an actual published report. About the only one is a Honda link and they say that 10% is OK. Can anyone give a link to the reports from Mercury or any other or do we just take the poster's word for it. This is a wonderful forum but it would be so much more so if posters provided documentation or at least said that it was only their opinion. Just a simple search can show you a major reason that e10 can be a problem. Storage is one... Quote from a study "OSU"..... Select the ethanol fuel small engines. It's a pdf. http://www.agmachinery.okstate.edu/engines/fuel Therefore, E10 blends are generally considered non- corrosive and should not accelerate wear for newer engines (1995 and later). Examinations of manufacturer’s statements indicate that ethanol blends up to 10 percent (E10) are ac- cep table (5). Older engines may run a slight risk of degrada- tion of rubber, cork gaskets, and exposed magnesium and aluminum surfaces in the fuel system when using alcohol blends or highly aromatic modern fuels. Older engines may have other susceptibilities as well. Don't you guys like a study like this and the bottom line says, " Older engines may run a slight risk of degrada- tion of rubber, cork gaskets, and exposed magnesium and aluminum surfaces in the fuel system when using alcohol blends or highly aromatic modern fuels. Older engines may have other susceptibilities as well." It's like from the EPA down, not one will state the true facts. I remember the day when the EPA and all the the Kings Horses said, " MTBE will not reduce the performance of your engine". HAWWWWWWW! They did the same with E10.... So hell, do you think those folks will offer any facts that will upset their apple cart? Global Warming included. Jim Seems to be a bad link???? Never have had a problem with posting a url but this one needs to be copied and then pasted in your address bar. Or just do a search for agmachinery.okstate.edu/engine/fuel. http://www.agmachinery.okstate.edu Will correct my orig post. Thanks, Jim
bigfootford 09/12/14 09:06am Tech Issues
RE: Ethanol in small engines

I am not taking up for ethanol and I fully believe that mpg goes down when using it, after all ethanol has much less energy content than gasoline. Just Google it for links. What I question is if it actually causes damage. This thread is full of reports about tests or experiences but I don't see many links to an actual published report. About the only one is a Honda link and they say that 10% is OK. Can anyone give a link to the reports from Mercury or any other or do we just take the poster's word for it. This is a wonderful forum but it would be so much more so if posters provided documentation or at least said that it was only their opinion. Just a simple search can show you a major reason that e10 can be a problem. Storage is one... Quote from a study "OSU"..... Select the ethanol fuel small engines. It's a pdf. You have to either type the url into your address bar or copy and paste this address: www.agmachinery.okstate.edu/engines/fuel This one will not work for some reason: http://www.agmachinery.okstate.edu/engines/fuel Therefore, E10 blends are generally considered non- corrosive and should not accelerate wear for newer engines (1995 and later). Examinations of manufacturer’s statements indicate that ethanol blends up to 10 percent (E10) are ac- cep table (5). Older engines may run a slight risk of degrada- tion of rubber, cork gaskets, and exposed magnesium and aluminum surfaces in the fuel system when using alcohol blends or highly aromatic modern fuels. Older engines may have other susceptibilities as well. Don't you guys like a study like this and the bottom line says, " Older engines may run a slight risk of degrada- tion of rubber, cork gaskets, and exposed magnesium and aluminum surfaces in the fuel system when using alcohol blends or highly aromatic modern fuels. Older engines may have other susceptibilities as well." It's like from the EPA down, not one will state the true facts. I remember the day when the EPA and all the the Kings Horses said, " MTBE will not reduce the performance of your engine". HAWWWWWWW! They did the same with E10.... So hell, do you think those folks will offer any facts that will upset their apple cart? Global Warming included. Jim
bigfootford 09/10/14 05:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Broken Frame

Here are the frame pictures that Raften (Jim) took of the break. http://i.imgur.com/umMNDIXl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0yMdP91l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6h7NTyPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AYNmSmql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nCGCRSGl.jpg Jim
bigfootford 09/08/14 02:45pm Truck Campers
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