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 > Your search for posts made by 'bigfootford' found 133 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: jefe's Extreme Truck Camper Drivetrain Build

Dang Jefe, you just might finish this ongoing pursuit of tow crawl perfection! Reminds me of Johnny Cash's.... "Built It One Piece At A Time"! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWHniL8MyMM Jim
bigfootford 01/13/17 10:59am Truck Campers
RE: HF Batt Maintainer, A Waste?

Been using them for years.. 2 riding mowers, 2 motorcycles and 2 old VW's. Had one fail years ago. I have had a Battery Tender (brand) go bad too. Two WFCO's.... One thing I will tell you is that the HF one that is simple will drain your battery if it is not plugged into shore power 120vac. The more expensive one does not. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_20349.jpg width=640 The circuitry in the HF battery tender has no magic. Just a simple regulator IC a couple of resistors and a Capacitor. The transformer is not taxed with over amp draw. They get barely warm... Jim
bigfootford 01/11/17 10:19am Tech Issues
RE: Let's talk about grounding

Camper negative and shore power earth ground are tied together! Where? Your Fridge and if you have a hot water tank that is 120vac and propane. Lot's of discussion back years ago.. If your interested here is a link. Or just look at the pictures that I produced along with the notes showing the grounding. You also will notice that the AC ground and DC- are also tied together at or around the converter. http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/16562094 Or if you do not want to go look here is one picture showing the BOND... AC ground to DC- http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1437/6215710/16562094/254821898.jpg width=640 Not to Hijack this thread but if your interested in the reason I came up with these pictures you can learn from this thread: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/19726244/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm Jim
bigfootford 01/10/17 11:56am Truck Campers
RE: solar panels

Ok, so by the same token were is it written that " this stuff is totally inacurate" ?....by who's authority is that?.....I happen to use the rule of thumb of 100w per 6v battery for my solar setup and it provides all the power I need...everyones needs are different as most people know....whats with the "authorative" statement that this is wrong? With the idea of 100 watts per 100 ah of battery your 2 6vdc batteries would fit right in that window. Or someone with 2 group 27's 100ah each 200 ah total would apply also. The real determining factor is how many Amp Hours you are going to consume per day isn't it? If your AH consumption per day is less than 25 AH you will be able to recover "MOST" of the time when in fowl weather. In sunny weather by noon or 1pm. We rarely use over 25 ah. watching a movie, charging phones and laptops etc. LED lights, LED tv's and a Wave 3 heater keep our Ah consumption low. I have many TC friends that are like you and I when it comes to the 100watts per 100ah of battery. For years we used 2 group 27 batteries but when we whittled on the AH consumption by doing the LED etc thing I found no need to have 2 batteries... WHOOOHOO! I now have only 1 100ah Lifeline AGM..... It is 7 years old now and still performs like new. Jim
bigfootford 12/24/16 07:42am Truck Campers
RE: solar panels

I have 200 watts on my Bigfoot roof. I cut out cardboard to match the dimensions of panels I was interested in and tried it in different positions on the roof.... http://i.imgur.com/rkkncKKl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/8bseTikl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GTxqePgl.jpg My install: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24783458/srt/pa/pging/1/page/2.cfm Jim
bigfootford 12/23/16 08:51am Truck Campers
RE: Bigfoot sewer hose storage

Yep, that is a pain. I ended up extending the tube about 6"... I can get a 10ft slinky hose in there. I have seen some folks mount PVC tube under the camper side overhang that works pretty good if you need more than 10 ft. Hangers something like this: http://www.downwindmarine.com/images/P/890917.jpg width=640 Probably other sources but just to show the sizes etc: http://www.downwindmarine.com/Pipe-Hangers-Clic-Clamps-PVC-p-90890917.html Jim
bigfootford 12/01/16 12:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Where to put shunt

The main reason the shunt is recommended on the Negative "-" lead of the battery wiring is for safety. Bare + connections are unsafe, the bigger the connection the worse, shunt, lugs and bolts. If you are working around any grounded source and a tool etc crosses to the bare connection/shunt MURPHY's head will rise to the occasion. Ever worked on a + lead grounded vehicle??? Hayayaa.... Bumper to bumper they attempted to to get the car started while jumping...... Sparks a flying... Jim
bigfootford 11/23/16 11:54am Tech Issues
RE: 1996 Ford F250 camper- Long post...

As a note, if you decide to do the Visions there are different depth of the hub covers.. Deep and shallow.. Make sure you get the Deep if needed. If I were to do Visions again I would get the black ones. My rims and truck took a beating going to Prudhoe Bay and other dirt/rock roads. The Clear coat paint has crazed due to rocks etc hitting them. My buddy has Visions with the clear coat and his still looks pretty good but he has not been where we go with our rig. Jim
bigfootford 11/19/16 11:49am Truck Campers
RE: 1996 Ford F250 camper- Long post...

Thanks to the good advice as always. Big foot Ford- When I went to the Vision wheels site it does not list 19.5s for our trucks. Which one did you buy and did it need any mods? Thanks to the good advice as always. Big foot Ford- When I went to the Vision wheels site it does not list 19.5s for our trucks. Which one did you buy and did it need any mods? Haw, had the same problem... Called Heavy Haulers! http://images.visionwheel.com/images/wheels/xlarge/81A%20Chrome%201000.jpg width=640 http://images.visionwheel.com/images/wheels/large/81A_19.5x7.5_MBO-500.png width=640 http://www.visionwheel.com/wheel.cfm?id=6854 I went to Les Schawb for mine, tires and all. Jim
bigfootford 11/19/16 10:02am Truck Campers
RE: 1996 Ford F250 camper- Long post...

Might be worth doing a little junkyard diving like I did for a higher rated rear axle to give you a little extra wiggle room, it'll extend the service life of your bearings and their races. The added bonus of larger brakes didn't hurt either. On the campers, the newer they are, the heavier they tend to be because of the extra features, filon (Its very heavy), slides etc.... Anything longer than the specialized short box 9' units is going to have too much overhang with a short bed truck. When you get up towards the 9 1/2 - 10 ft range, you can safely plan on a dry weight of around 3000-3200lbs or somewhat close there in, and around 4000-4200 fully decked out with all your gear, full tanks etc.... The rear Axle rating for F250 around those years is: Visteon web site it states 9750 lbs The rear axle rating is limited on the SRW by the tire rating, if you have 235/85 R16E's you have 3042 lbs x 2 = 6084 265/85 R16E's are 3415 x 2 = 6830 the dually tires would be 2778 x 4 = 11,112 The rating of the actual axle is 9750 lbs. So there is quite a bit of margin for the actual axle itself.. Jim
bigfootford 11/17/16 02:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Roaming the Eastern Sierra Nevada Caldera

Wow, great fun for the two of you.... Love to read your reports and it's great that you guys can get out and wonder around!!!! JnS
bigfootford 11/17/16 11:13am Truck Campers
RE: 1996 Ford F250 camper- Long post...

I have a 94 f250 super cab 460 2wd... I put 19.5's on it... Vision rims.. So I do not see why you can not do the same. Our weight with our LOADED 9.6 bigfoot camper and without is: Unloaded: F 3160 R 2680 Loaded: F 3400 Dif: 240 R 6550 Diff 3870 19.5 tire spec 4500 x 2= 9000 lbs. My weight margin is over 2000 lbs for the rear. To put 19.5's on the front you have to do a little removal of the front bumper for the tire to clear. I have only Air bags on the rear. Running 40lbs each. Almost 200,000 traveling with this camper on 2 ford f250 super cabs... 89 and 94. My brakes work just fine with the camper on... Even towing 2000 lb trailer or towing a 2000 lb toad.. Samurai or 69 VW baja Jim
bigfootford 11/17/16 11:00am Truck Campers
RE: Foam Board or Rubber Mat For Under Camper?

10-4 Thanks. What seemed to be attacking pad? The screws and just the bottom of the camper rim the supports the weight of the camper and the bottom rim around the front and passenger Going around corners etc wii put forces of the weight into the sides or when putting the brakes on the weight of the camper will be trying to move forward and down in the front.... Like HMS said... STAMPING... If you need to raise the camper up do foam on the bottom then Plywood and then the top with rubber if you want... Jim
bigfootford 11/15/16 12:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Foam Board or Rubber Mat For Under Camper?

Bought 3 sheets of 3/4" CDX plywood this afternoon. Should have them fitted tomorrow afternoon and maybe started on painting. I'll put the bed mat on top of the plywood. Thanks for all the good info and advice. Perfect plan.... When I did mine I had the ply and pad... The pad got chewed up around the front, especially the passenger side so I removed it about 10 years ago and found the plywood was enough. Jim
bigfootford 11/15/16 09:50am Truck Campers
RE: Foam Board or Rubber Mat For Under Camper?

I have not had the plywood slide backward, but it you look closely at the picture, my plywood is cut around the tailgate opening such that it is locked in by the tailgate frame. Actually it's pretty hard to see in the picture but it is there. It can't slide backwards. I think I would worry about this otherwise, particularly since it is on a poly liner which is a bit slippery. Still, the camper is held forward by the tie downs so I don't think the plywood would try to crawl out from under. I think the Bigfoot decal is due to all the screws underneath. These will for sure tear up the paint on the bed. If you use plywood and no rubber, you will get a nice imprint of the screw heads in the plywood in very short order. My plywood is shaped like Jon's..... HMS. Never had mine shft... There is quite a bit of weight at the rear.. The plywood back there is needed for support of the entire rear... I actually cut the plywood to be about 1.5" over the rer of the bed. I think this helps not having an abrupt edge. The plywood bends slightly so there is no sharp edge. Jim
bigfootford 11/05/16 10:55am Truck Campers
RE: DIY pressure test

I would wait 3-6 mos and do it again... you men 3-6 mos to re-tighten or reseal again? I was under the impression 5 years from new was the norm before having to do any major resealing. I try to keep a close eye the roof stuff. Only talking about the windows.... Only Bigfoot. Your windows may be the same type and might need the same attention. If tightened a couple of times when the camper is new you will never have a window leak with the kind of windows installed on the Bigfoot and some other campers. When some folks have removed windows to re-do they have found DIRT between the Butyl tape and the body of the camper or window frame indicating that there NEVER was any bond, right from the factory! It only takes a 1/4in or less across the top or sides of the window to create a ROTTING over time leak! This problem is really acerbated with metal sided type of campers... Getting a good seal between the bends of the metal is really a problem... Jim
bigfootford 10/31/16 04:49pm Truck Campers
RE: Batteries

You will need to have a good charger/converter for those new batteries too, AGM or flooded wet cells. Along with that you may need to upgrade the battery wiring to accommodate the higher charge amperage. More on that later as you decide what to do. Jim
bigfootford 10/31/16 11:45am Truck Campers
RE: DIY pressure test

Many of us have found out the hard way about these camper windows. I had the rear kitchen area of my Bigfoot leak the day I bought it. Instead of taking it back to the dealer 300 mi I elected to fix it myself and see why it would leak. I removed the window using a heat gun and plastic putty knifes. Not too much heat just enough to soften the Butyl tape sealer. I found that the window was not sealed at the right top side.... After I cleaned up the window and opening I placed the window up there and found that the curve of the camper corner starts where the window sits... Ugggg... It too 2 layers of Butyl tape to provide a proper seal. I also found that it is imperative that the screws around the windows be repeatedly snugged slightly a few times. You want the sealer to ooze out... If you start to tighten the screws I would first check to see if some are not even tight! Snug those down slightly, then turn the screws maybe 1/4 turn each... You should see the sealer slightly ooze or bulge a bit. I would wait 3-6 mos and do it again... I did all my windows after finding out that the windows were not sealed properly. After about 3 years I removed the excess oozed sealer... If your camper is old you may need to remove the windows that do not ooze sealer and re-do. There are a few examples of what I have described on our TC forum... Jim
bigfootford 10/31/16 11:42am Truck Campers
RE: Foam Board or Rubber Mat For Under Camper?

I put plywood where ever the camper could touch the bed. Not sure on the NL, but on a Bigfoot they typically get wider aft of the wheel wells, so I put plywood there too. I also extended it about 6 inches over the bed edge, as I have seen fiberglass campers get a bit stressed (cracked gel coat) at this "stress riser". The plywood spreads this stress out a bit. While I was at it, I added blocks or cleats to the ply to keep the camper centered. At the front, I like the idea of a board at least 1" thick for the camper to bump against. If it has the usual rubber bumpers up there, on heavy braking those two small pads are putting a lot of point pressure on the thin sheet metal of the bulkhead. Again, a board will spread this out a bit. In the picture you can see the black dots imprinted from the DeeZee mat. Note that there is significant load outside of the wheel wells aft. The plywood is in three pieces (bulkhead to mid wheel well, left and right halves to the back) to make them easy to remove. They fit fairly tightly to the sides to keep from shifting. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/swarf_rat/Bigfoot10_4/PhotoB2085_zpslbej3tuw.jpg Nice description of the subject. I notice that you have the spray in bed liner... Your fit for the plywood keeps it from shifting. Nice job. Correct about the perimeter fiberglass imprint and the stamping those screws on the wood! Jim
bigfootford 10/29/16 11:09am Truck Campers
RE: Foam Board or Rubber Mat For Under Camper?

All of you guys have been great with you comments and suggestions. Since this will be my first truck camper, as I said earlier in this thread, I am inclined to simply follow the manufacturer's recommendation and use a sheet of plywood and a soft 3/8" rubber mat on top of it. Now, I assume that a 4'x8' 1/2" plywood is sufficient, topped with a 4'x8' rubber mat, and I don't have to cut out plywood pieces to fill the entire truck bed, or get one of those custom mats that cover the entire truck bed. Correct? (I guess I'm learning here that I might want to consider some type of further blocking around my camper in the truck bed if I find it shifts after being secured with tie downs, etc. And, I rather like the idea of cutting another piece of rubber matting to separate the camper from the front of truck bed.) Yep, have to cut that plywood to fit. Mine is 3/4 ply cut and shaped for wheel wells, 4 pieces makes it easy to get out. I have no other blocking to prevent sliding, shifting around.. My tiedowns are just old Happijac's. Never had my camper shift much. When I first load the camper and drive it for a bit I might have 1 or 2 tiedowns loosen a bit. A bit would be maybe enough turns for about 1/4 inch. Like I said, I have been over some prolonged rough roads... Jim
bigfootford 10/29/16 10:26am Truck Campers
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