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 > Your search for posts made by 'bigfootford' found 195 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Question to all Vision 19.5 wheel users

Thanks Jim, No they were not overly tight almost all the lugs needed to be tightened but when I got to these 2 I new something was wrong after I tried to tighten them and the wrench never "clicked" I thought the stud was stripped so I took the nuts off and that was when I saw what was happening. It was as if the nut sank into the aluminum,I didn't think that could happen. The guy must have been on his cell phone or something. I was using a Snap-on torque wrench by the way. The aluminum that gets displaced by the nut recessing because of over torque should have caused a bulge around the perimeter...and should be very visible! If it is not maybe vision did it in the mfg process.... Did you make sure that your lug nuts are all the same length.. hahaaaaa just asking in case! Jim They are all the same nuts. I will check for bulges but the way the wheel is made it may not show. Just a thought,maybe it was caused when they put it on the balancing machine? The lug nuts that I have are the same as yours according to the part number.. That said they are taper mating not flush/flat... Depending on the truck, mine and yours are not hub centric, at least mine are not.... When I mount my tires I am always cautions to work the nuts down and center the rim to the nuts. Some shops, I have watched them put aluminum wheels on without centering manually... ugggg.. Steel rims center pretty good, Aluminum not so good and will gouge the mating surface. Jim
bigfootford 08/02/15 10:46pm Truck Campers
RE: 19.5 Wheels for 2011 GMC

Ram 3500 and a Lance 815. If you search you'll find my weight ticket. Call it a WP badge if you want; the reality is that many if not most people carrying truck campers either don't know or don't want to know just how scary overloaded they are. In my travels, I have even seen slideout campers on 4wd diesel 3/4 tons. Ignorance is bliss, I guess. Give us the AXLE rating on all of the trucks you are thinking "just how scary overloaded they are".....Including yours... Where are all the threads saying broken axles.... OR even blown tires... Where is the carnage you are saying IGNORANCE is bliss about? Do you understand that the ratings are developed around tire v/s axle ratings? Jim
bigfootford 08/02/15 07:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Question to all Vision 19.5 wheel users

Thanks Jim, No they were not overly tight almost all the lugs needed to be tightened but when I got to these 2 I new something was wrong after I tried to tighten them and the wrench never "clicked" I thought the stud was stripped so I took the nuts off and that was when I saw what was happening. It was as if the nut sank into the aluminum,I didn't think that could happen. The guy must have been on his cell phone or something. I was using a Snap-on torque wrench by the way. The aluminum that gets displaced by the nut recessing because of over torque should have caused a bulge around the perimeter...and should be very visible! If it is not maybe vision did it in the mfg process.... Did you make sure that your lug nuts are all the same length.. hahaaaaa just asking in case! Jim
bigfootford 08/02/15 02:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Question to all Vision 19.5 wheel users

When you loosened the nuts that were recessed were they REALLY tight? Was there a lot of galling of the wheel's aluminum lug mating surface? I have taken mine off several times for various reasons, never seen anything like what you described. I would call Vision and see what they say.. I would be very wary that the lugs recessed that bad. The only way they get recessed is by OVER torquing. The shop that did this is going to go into denial mode eh? My lugs are the same as yours. Jim
bigfootford 08/02/15 02:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Sorry, but this is only a test

Nice camper cave! Jim
bigfootford 08/02/15 09:53am Truck Campers
RE: 19.5 Wheels for 2011 GMC

(It's nice to know someone's point of reference when they give advice.) Thx, Bill No it isn't. It's just ad hominem. What he runs himself has no bearing on his advice. And you are running what truck/TC? I don't see anything in your sig either... Tx, Bill Here's a link to all of his posts.... I believe he might have a WP badge... Work your way forward. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/search/parms/sw{}|km{}|kl{}|fm{}|pd{365}|ma{twodownzero}/sr/1/srt/d/searchIn/-/page/9 Jim
bigfootford 08/01/15 11:45pm Truck Campers
RE: 19.5 Wheels for 2011 GMC

Anyone hear or had an axle break lately or ever from a heavy camper. Where is the carnage? Axle rating is what most of us look at. We then do the upgrade in tires and rims to handle weight. Then some add stabilization components to satisfy the owners feel of drivability. Guess the real question is are any of us over our rear axle rating? Jim
bigfootford 08/01/15 11:26am Truck Campers
RE: What's eating my batteries? (Please help:()

Make sure that 9100 has the Charge Wizard controller with it! The 9100 is a single stage charger without it. http://www.progressivedyn.com/charge_wizard.html Check to see if your fridge is a 3 way... 120vac, propane and 12vdc (for cooling). If it is and you leave it on Auto it will switch to 12vdc mode and you will not be doing much charging of your batteries going down the road. Jim
bigfootford 07/29/15 09:39am Tech Issues
RE: Solar panels, how high should they be above the roof

Wow, congratulations for finally resorting to getting solar! I mounted my panels just high enough to get a brush under them to clean the roof... I just used 3x3 aluminum L stock to fabricate my roof brackets. In the panel corners I used 2x2 aluminum L to re-enforce the corners glued and bolt/nutted. Then I mounted my 3x3's on that. Luckily my camper's front is slightly tilted down so no problem with the pooling dirt and water. Also my roof is arched so my panels are slightly tilted to the side. I thought I might want to tilt them so I did not secure the panels to the roof brackets with bolts n nuts, I used pins. Never needed to tilt. All the way to Prudhoe bay! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_lAsuwHaXHEs/TVG_FV0TU0I/AAAAAAAABSg/IJ5ZF1aLNww/s800/101_3816.JPG height=640 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_lAsuwHaXHEs/TVG_DODuUQI/AAAAAAAABSc/kVpdjq0bDqg/s800/101_3815.JPG height=640 Link to more detail of my install: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24783458/gotomsg/24787554.cfm#24787554 Note how many cells I have on my panels... 100watts each. Jim
bigfootford 07/29/15 09:18am Tech Issues
RE: Burnt Circuit box

Dang I hope there is enough slack in the wires to cut them all back enough to make this right. If there is not enough wire to reach a new ground buss bar there's nothing to stop anyone from leaving the bar suspended, reattach the wires and then use 1/16in X 1" or so or thicker aluminum stock. Bend it to attach to the bar and chassis of the box. That would secure it enough to be safe. Jim Just to be clear, this is the neutral bus bar, not the ground bus bar. You do NOT want electrical connectivity between it and the power center chassis. Doing so would introduce a ground fault and not be code compliant...and, in the event of a neutral fault or a reverse wired pedestal with a poor ground connection, could easily lead to a dangerous hot skin condition on the RV. Good catch, just a typing brain fardt... I will correct my post... Think the objective statement was correct, just the naming of the buss bar... Thanks, Jim
bigfootford 07/28/15 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Burnt Circuit box

Dang I hope there is enough slack in the wires to cut them all back enough to make this right. If there is not enough wire to reach a new neutral buss bar there's nothing to stop anyone from leaving the bar suspended, reattach the wires and then use 1/16in X 1" or so or thicker aluminum stock. Bend it to attach to the bar and chassis of the box. That would secure it enough to be safe. Jim
bigfootford 07/28/15 12:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Burnt Circuit box

And by the way where did the link to post a picture come from? One of rv.net member wrote the little program.... At the bottom of the picture link window Provided by RV.NET Member 1492 BTW, I have seen this type of damage in home electrical wiring in the Panel and outlets.. Interesting that you did not smell the cooking of the wires. Jim
bigfootford 07/28/15 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

I want to add another step to the process of fixing the lean running that can be overcome by running slightly choked.... If you clean the Emlusion tube and jet and still have the lean running try the following, or just add it to you carb cleaning steps to cure lean run. I have seen this 1 other time and was actually no sure that what was done to fixed it until a couple of days ago. Wayne, "Reddog1" and I were attempting to fix his 2000I lean running problem. We took the carb apart and did the common fixes... Put it back together and still had the same problem. We took the carb apart again and this time we plugged the intake and with a towel we wrapped a cloth around a air nozzle and blew air into the out put end of the carb.. We were attempting to force air back through the tiny ports in the venturi area/ around the throttle butterfly. There are 2 holes that are about .015.... and 3 .005 holes in a row about 3/4 in up from the output side of the carb.. Hard to see. You have to open the butterflies to see them. I think using brake cleaner spray would work better if you can get the nozzle bent and against the holes... So we cured his lean running... There was something in one of those holes probably the one below the butterflies on the output side of the carb.. Jim
bigfootford 07/27/15 04:26pm Tech Issues
RE: HappiJac 4600 Overhaul

I also had issue with the needle/thrust bearings and washers/races rusting. I found some replacements made by INA (made in USA) PN# TC1018. The races/washers are also INA brand PN# TWA1018-HLA. These bearings worked for both my 4500 and 4150 model jacks. On edit: Sorry I reread your title to the thread, I don't know off hand if the bearings will work in the 4600 jack. Ah thanks for the edit.... I may need those bearings some day for my 4600's.... Bookmarked! Jim
bigfootford 07/26/15 10:18am Truck Campers
RE: Score one for the weight police :)

Many of us run these rims... 4500lbs each rim... Along with that spec we run 19.5 tires, mine are Michelins 4500lbs each! I would not expect to buy anything less! http://www.visionwheel.com/specs.cfm?id=867 http://www.visionwheel.com/cms_images/wheels/thumb/vision_81_heavy_hauler_machine_clear_coat_std_1001.png I have about 2500 lbs spare weight on the rear of my truck when I am fully loaded! Jim
bigfootford 07/26/15 12:04am Truck Campers
RE: Battery charger upgrade and purpose of solinoid

Lifeline batteries for RV and Marine are the kind that you can really shove the current to them if you have the proper charger. My 100ah lifeline is over 7 years old and it sees 60 amps when discharged down to 60%soc. and stays over 45amps for well over 45 min... I have used a Progressive Dynamics 9260 for about 10 years now... I do have 200watts of solar to charge when on the road. I am running a total AH using my trimetric... Currently over 5000ah cycled since my lifeline was installed. UPG, Universal AGM 100 ah batteries state right on the battery not to exceed 35 amps.. I tested one in real world testing and it died in less than 2 mos.. I was told that disregard the 35 amp thing, use your 60 amp charger and have at it. http://upgi.com/Products/batteries.aspx?cat=12 Charge Method (Constant Voltage) Cycle Use (Repeating Use) ?????????????? Initial Current 33 A or smaller Control Voltage 14.6 - 14.8 VFloat Use 13.6 - 13.8 VControl Voltage Terminals So I think buyer beware... Everyone I know that has lifelines are happy campers... Jim
bigfootford 07/22/15 10:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery charger upgrade and purpose of solinoid

But remember that link leads to a post that is 5 years old. I recommend using 6 (six) AWG wire to feet that pretty, dual contact plug and socket. The wire is going to be exposed because it passes under the truck. Use a GARDEN HOSE or heater hose to act as a protective cover and keep it well away from the exhaust system. You are going to need CIRCUIT BREAKERS at BOTH ENDS. Under the hood At the Camper batteries Two breakers http://www.delcity.net/images/photos/76600_primary.jpg FORGIVE THE IMAGE EXAMPLE Choose 120-amp breakers http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi!Amp-Surface-Mount-!-%3Cbr%3EManual-Reset-%28Switchable%29/p_193073 An auto body shop has the tools and expertise to cut a good looking hole in the truck fender. Since your battery is AGM you can mount the breaker right next to the RV battery. The best place to take power -from- the truck is right at the alternator output stud. The big one. Mount the truck-side circuit breaker on a fender well. You're not going to believe how much faster and more correct the improved system is going to charge the camper batteries. The parts I listed are fine for one or (2) AGM batteries. The system components I chose are automatic except for the breakers which must be reset manually if shorted. The battery isolator is TOTALLY AUTOMATIC. No switches, no wires. It's the proven hot setup... I played with the 30 amp version of those breakers. I found that they dropped .1 volts at 25 amps... ugggg... Even the damn solenoids drop about the same!.... Jim
bigfootford 07/22/15 02:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery charger upgrade and purpose of solinoid

This is how you do it to accomplish 30+ amps to your batteries and run that fridge. Although this is a truck and camper the need for big wire and sufficient connectors to handle the amps is what is required. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23601503.cfm Jim
bigfootford 07/22/15 12:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery/Inverter problems

Got it figured out today since I finally had some dedicated time to work on it before beer30. Positive wire AND Negative both looked like this. Previous owner overshot the screw and tightened down on mostly jacket. Thanks for all of the ideas. Kinda wish I wouldn't have posted this thread in the first place now until I dug into it more, feel kinda silly. I was kinda beered up on the 4th when I posted.:) 13.3 volts hitting the batteries now. Thanks all.... http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k483/clint9920/batt_zpskgheeaui.jpg Good, you found it.... Did the PO add the remote pendant to the 9260? If so you should play with it and understand how it works.. http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/pendant.html If you do not have one I would get one. They are not that expensive. Jim
bigfootford 07/12/15 01:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Is converter going bad

Back in the old days a good man carried a gun, now days they carry a digital meter! Anyone that has an RV should consider it mandatory to know how to do the basics with a meter.. It's easier to learn to use than driving a strange car! Jim
bigfootford 07/08/15 10:05am Tech Issues
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