What tricks do you use to keep it clean. I see some guys using a long handle mop device with a changeable pad and some chemical. I know not to do this when it's really dirty but how about just to keep it looking good? Any ideas out there? Bob
Glad that you got it fixed. Don't drive longer than necessary with the dryer bypassed as the only limit on excessive air pressure buildup is the relief valve in the air tanks. You'll see 150psi or more on your gauges and hear a new banging sound as those relief valves work. The one way check valve is a $15 part and easily replaced. Anything more than that and you should look into a replacement dryer. Been there, done that! Bob
Same thing happened to us on our 06 Allergo Bus. It was the dryer leaking continually. I was able to disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses and connect them together thus bypassing the dryer and drive it to get service. Bob
New update. It was the check valve! This is a small one inch rubber face metal disc that works with a spring to maintain pressure. It is located in the dryer just under the fitting for the large hose connection. I removed it and found damage to the rubber seal. Good news,! It is easy to change, cheap, and rewarding to fix. Thanks to the help on this topic. Bob
An update. I spoke with a tech rep at Haldex and he thought that it was not the check valve but rather the unloader in the compressor. I went ahead and ordered the check valve as it was only $15 so we'll see what happens. I really don't want to have to remove the compressor, i can't even see it! Bob
My '06 Allergo Bus has a problem with the air system. Once it reaches pressure, about 115#s it blows off pressure every three to four seconds. So far we have replaced the governor on the air compressor and rebuild the Haldex air dryer. My mechanic wants to replace the dryer but it is a $500.00 part. This seems to be too big a gamble without assurances. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance, Bob
PS When I disconnect the small hose on the dryer from the governor, the cycling stops and the pressure rises to about 140
Years ago we had the same problem with a '90 Southwind. I checked around as you are doing and found the repairs to be exorbitant! The BEST estimate was $10,000 per side! Live with it or trade it is my advice, Bob
You guys are really worrying me with all the negative comments about LG refers! I can still purchase the extended warranty, I think I will. As to the questions, the left door does not open far enough to be able to remove the ice bin. When we go home to my shop, I will probably remove it again and lower the pedestal to allow the door room to swing under the pocket door track. This Bus has a good size battery pack and an inverter but we rarely dry camp so it's not too important. For example we are staying here in Mesa Az for six months.
Meanwhile, the beer is really cold and the ice cream rock hard! Bob
and $863 +tip to delivery guys. Our Norcold struggles are over! YEA! We have been fighting a long battle with that piece of sh*&t for too long, inadequate cooling, broken door hinge, leaking water etc. It didn't give up without a fight however, it leaked ammonia Sat night and polluted my coach just to really annoy us one more time. Thanks to the Tiffin forum the procedure for replacement was well documented. We just had to find the perfect 'fridge to replace it. There was the right Samsung at Home Depot but it was back ordered and we would have needed to wait until the end of January. We found a sale on at Fry's Electronics and bought the LG refer #LSC23924. It is the right size, has water and ice in the door and was $863 including tax, delivery and pick up of said Norcold. Plus, they delivered it in two hours! I had to rush home to remove the window behind driver, the old unit, clean up the hole and be ready. I just made it in time and the guys were very helpful, Here are some photos.....
Took out window behind driver
No cabinet mods but removal of trim above old refer
Bob, '06 Allergo Bus
The "Grapevine" is the mountain pass on the "5" descending into Los Angeles, the summit a little over 4,000 ft. On Sunday, around noon, I was just beginning the decent and felt the ride getting stiffer, like when you leave a campground before the air pressure has built all the way. I checked the pressure gauge and it was falling quickly! Luck was on my side as there was no one in the right lane. I pulled over but by now the Bus('06) had fallen on to the bump stops and it was bouncing us out of our seats. Again thanking my lucky stars, there was an off ramp in sight but by now my low pressure alarm was blasting and we were feeling some panic, just waiting for the brakes to lock up. We did get off the freeway and, lucky again, got to a parking lot and shut it off. I dropped the jacks and proceeded to look for the cause. After starting it up I was able to find the leak, it was the air dryer, a cylinder about ten inches around and over a foot in length. It is located at the rear just under the front of the motor. Meanwhile DW was on the internet and had found the Freightliner hot line. It is manned around the clock every day of the year, and, a real person who speaks English answered. He helped me through the diagnosis and suggested the fix. I took off the two air lines, air in and air out and connected them together, bypassing the dryer and it's leaking pressure relief valve. Problem solved! I drove it into our winter spot here in Mesa with no other difficulties. The air pressure was a little higher, around 145, but was assured there would be no problems. It is time to buy the rebuild kit and get my next lesson on maintenance! Bob