I don't completely understand the phenomena, but isn't this condensation formation issue caused by what's known as "venturi effect" in high humidity conditions, similar to what happens to a normally aspirated piston engine aircraft only ice forms in the aircraft engine's carburetor rather than liquid condensation? On an aircraft engine, there is a carburetor heat control that when activated, directs some engine exhaust into the intake air to heat it and prevent carburetor icing.
Just have to believe the fix shouldn't be elusive to Ford, since turbocharged engines have been around forever.................
Not sure on the venturi effect... I do know a thing about carbs icing up. I had the same issue on my '70 pickup in the winter when I was in college in northern Utah. Really cold and going over the mountain pass the carb would ice up and the throttle would stick. My remedy was to modulate the throttle a little bit every couple minutes to keep it broken free.
I read more on the EB awhile back about high-humidity being a cause or magnifier to this condensation/misfire issue. I still feel that loading these things once in awhile will reduce/eliminate the problem; it shouldn't happen and owners shouldn't need to go out and flog their vehicles from time to time. It is just like when all the diesels went to DPFs. City driving, extended idle times, short-cycling, all lead to plugged DPFs. The solution was to drive them to get the exhaust gas temps up and help burn the soot out. I still feel that if these were 'worked' every once in awhile, water would not collect in the IC.
The "problem" is not new and it's so far anyway been only a tiny fraction of the total built.
Isn't the "problem" that condensation is forming in the intercooler, and as drivers accelerate the intake draws in a tiny bit of water and causes a misfire, and the ECM may panic and go to limp mode?! Yeah, this has been floating around on the internet for awhile.
Simple fix for this, don't short-cycle the engines. Just like when everyone says don't idle an engine during long term storage to 'circulate fluids', or don't drive diesels on short trips that don't get them up to operating temperature.
If the 3.5L Ecoboost was a non-IC design, there would be less (if any) places for water to accumulate and cause this issue. I'd bet money that skipnchar will never have this issue with his truck because he uses it to tow, gets it hot, and that will keep the water from accumulating.
I would also bet that this issue begins to appear on the 2.0L and other EB engines that have ICs that are operated in the same conditions as I've mentioned above.
With that said, the wife and I are still planning on purchasing a 2.0L Ecoboost equipped Ford Escape later this year to replace her '05 Escape 3.0L.
Skyline Drive, starting at the Bountiful, Utah Bountiful 'B'.
Located just north of Salt Lake City is Bountiful. On the mountain range to the East of I-15 you can see the large 'B'. That is the starting point of Skyline Drive. There is a couple acre dirt lot there to park and unload. You can run the 1-1.5 lane wide dirt road, or choose to go up the side of the mountain in to the tighter more 4-wheeler sized trails that will tie in to Skyline Drive.
You could burn tanks of fuel up there blasting around, but the benefit is to get to the top and overlook Bountiful/Centerville and also the Great Salt Lake to the West.
If you don't mess around and hurry to the top, 2hrs would be enough time. Or you could spend a whole day up there. On a weekday you will be lonely, on a weekend you will be climbing over others like the mice in a cage at Petco.
Ford-Ecoboost... Fully manual control of 6spd auto transmission. Flip up the back seat and the floor is flat. Can get a 6.5' bed with crew cab (Gm you're stuck with 5.5).
I do think the GM truck has better headlight output though. I do like the look/feel/layout of the HVAC and stereo system of the GM. The Ford is cluttered. The stereo sounds better.
The isolation relay/solenoid would have to be on the truck and would not be on the TC. Power from truck to TC is with the ignition key in the 'On' position, and your TC doesn't know when the truck is on or not.
Dodge supplies power to the 7-way trailer harness regardless of ignition key position. So if there isn't an aftermarket device on the truck, it will be supplying power if you do not disconnect the TC.
The battery disconnect box under the sink is most likely a simple disconnect switch that will disconnect the TC from the TC batteries. The truck and TC batteries will remain connected together regardless of disconnect position. But since the previous owner has placed labels on this disconnect, he may have altered the wiring so that the disconnect allows him to cut the truck supply power to the TC batteries, and you have lost the ability to kill all power to the TC 12V system.
Reading my above may get a little confusing...
Sounds like the previous owner has altered the disconnect switch to disconnect the truck from the TC. If you can remember to flip the disconnect on/off, you can leave it as is. If you want it to be automatic, you will need to add an isolation relay to the truck wiring.
I lived in mine full time for three years during a job relocation, while I did not pour grease down the drain I washed dishes the same as I did at home, no problems at all. I did on occasion clean the gray tank by filling with water, bleach and laundry detergent and let soak before dumping, just to keep things fresh.
+1 Living in mine during the weekdays. Treat it the same as the house.
Closure is just North of Bitter Springs.
Flag to Page
Take 160 through Tuba City to 98, then North to Page.
You can take Tribal-20 but expect more dirt than asphalt, unknown conditions. If I had to choose between the two, I would go through Tuba. I would NOT do 20 in a motorhome or pulling a trailer.
You could also go from Flag directly to the North Rim/Jacob Lake and not go through Page.
As long as you're not over the tire weight ratings... I'd run it!
The axle/housing itself (not posted by Ford) has a weight rating that approaches five-figures. You could always move something from the truck to the rear of the trailer, or from the front of the trailer to the rear.
As with anything, the more you load it the sooner it will wear out. You will reduce the life of the outer bearings, but their life is already being reduced due to the fact that you are carrying a load heavier than an empty truck bed.
I wouldn't sweat it one tiny bit!
Smarty is THE way to go for you '04 5.9L CTD!!! You can make a lot more power and do it more safely than with most other programmers. You can improve fuel economy considerably too... but doing that is entirely dependent upon the performance of your right foot. :W
I would not consider any tuner that increased rail pressure (e.g. the Economind)
If you don't already have them, I suggest adding EGT & boost gauges. As other people have mentioned, more power can be tough on the stock transmission so you may want to think upgrading the tranny first.
Before you spend a penny on engine upgrades you may want to spend a few days reading through the forum archives on the Dodge-centric sites like Diesel Truck Resource and Turbo Diesel Registry.
Smarty is the best route to go. I would have one with UDC tuning, but my truck already had the Edge when I bought it.
You need to somewhat know what you're doing with the Smarty, because you can get stupid with it and cause damage. It isn't just plug it in and mash on the throttle. You get the options to adjust rail pressure, timing, fueling, adjust torque management, turbo wastegate control, power levels, read error codes, adjust for tire size changes (and the list goes on).
Adding a little bit of timing will get you some better fuel economy, but don't go wild with it. Too much timing can increase combustion chamber temperatures without showing up on the EGT gauge!
With my Edge, my fuel economy has improved ~0%. Removed vs installed, I only feel more power.
The weight of the trailer has the largest impact of getting moving form a stop (or coming to a stop).
The frontal area or drag of the trailer has more of an impact while you are traveling at speed.
I notice a big difference between pulling my toyhauler, and pulling a flatbed trailer with a tractor loaded on it. Getting rolling feels the same, but maintaining speed is easier; the truck doesn't work as hard.
You have to use the mirrors. If you turn around, all you see is the front of the trailer.
I live at the end of a small cul-de-sac. My truck has a hard time making the 180* turn to back in to my driveway (trash trucks have a hell of a time in there!). Instead of tight turning my trailer, I just back up the road directly into my drive. As soon as I get straight, all I can see is down each side. I will slightly zig-zag as I back up the road so that I can see 'behind' the trailer better. Been working for years. No little kids on my street except for mine so it's a win!
I went from a '97 K1500 using an Equilizer 4-Way, to my sig truck. The WDH didn't fit the Dodge because of the truck receiver height. I went for a run without WDH and determined that I was fine. Never spent the ~$100 for the longer/taller shank that would have allowed use of my WDH. I ended up giving it to my father in law since he was looking at purchasing the same one I had.
We've done many trips with and without toys in the trailer, and it has pulled great.
You will probably drop into 3rd on the hills.
Dad has an '01 with a 6spd, 4wd, and Edge-EZ chip with 3.55 gears. With my 7k TH never out of 6th, 20k combined would pull it down and go to 5th on the steep, 28k combined it would flat land 6th just fine but would need to go to 5th earlier.
I don't ever remember needing to go to 4th unless we had to make a turn.
The lack of gears sucks (I've got a 4spd auto in my '05). Wish I had the 6spd but oh well. You will see 3rd on climbs, and 4th everywhere else. I doubt you will have any issues.
Wow, I wonder how he gets the boat up there?
Look at the front tire of the Jeep. You can see the hyd ram that would lower the bunks of the boat to the 'Jeep's' level so that it can be floated on and off.
Neat and expensive idea.
You did what I would have done; jumper power to fuse and get it home.
Back trace wire from dead fuse to wherever it goes. I would assume it is a keyed-source as well, but I haven't dealt with the Allison-World controller enough to tell you exactly what it needs. Could be a relay or a loose connection (plug, crimp, loose terminal).
Wire in a test lamp to that dead fuse, then as you're shaking and tapping on things you can watch for the light to flicker on. This will help notify you that you are close to the issue. Don't forget to have the key turned on.
Hwy-89 from Logan to Garden City (Logan Canyon/Logan River) has a few no-hookup campgrounds through the canyon, and most will be walking distance to the river and dams. Once you get North of Right Fork (Camp Lomia) you can boondock almost anywhere.
IIRC there are 2 campgrounds between Logan and Right Fork. The one I can remember is really close to the Wind Caves.
There is one campground at the end of the pavement of Right Fork. There are a couple spots to boondock on the Right Fork road between 89 and Camp Lomia, but are usually taken on the weekends. At the end of the pavement on Right Fork, if you veer right and go through the gate (now heading due south), there are some places to pull off for the evening, but this takes you farther from the river. There is no need to go very far before you are out in the middle of nowhere. I don't know how far you want to get off the pavement... Did a lot of tent/truck camping up there in college. I don't remember what was to the left.
Temple Fork Road is (was not) a bad road to go up a short piece and spend a night or two. After a little bit it opens up again for a nice place to park next to a small stream. Camping next to Logan River isn't going to happen here.
There is an open field near the USU Forestry Field Station that I've seen many trailers at during hunting season (and holiday weekends), that place you near the river. Nice open spot.
There is a camp ground just before Tony Grove Lake (paved road to lake) that is on a hill side. There is also a camp ground on that 1500' spur right off of hwy89 that has paved spaces, but most are not level (like run out of tongue jack on your trailer not level). I THINK there was fresh water available at this one but I'm not making any guarantees.
I almost forgot. There is a road just before 3rd Dam; Google Earth marks the turn off at 41*45'07, 111*43'35. Boondock and fish right there 50' from your rig. In college we usually went there and fished and camped.
My order of preference.
1. Just down river of 3rd Dam. Free, right at river, flat road.
2. Boondock on Right Fork Road - near river, free, no room for a second rig to crowd you.
3. Campground (either one if there was two) between Logan and Right Fork - you're near the river for fishing, nice in cool in the canyon, plenty of shade trees
4. Camp Lomia at the end of Right Fork - still near river for fishing
5. USU Forestry field - free and near river
6. Tony Grove CGs - gonna pay a few bucks, but good fishing at Tony Grove Lake. Is a steep but paved road all the way to the Lake.
Power lights on 2nd trailer from 1st trailer lights. No need to run wiring all the way to the TV.
If you can easily access the wiring at the tail of the 1st trailer, tap them (waterproof it) as far back as you can. 2nd choice would be to pull wiring to tongue of 1st trailer and access wiring at junction box. Each trailer will be different, so you're on your own.
A 2-way fridge will run of propane (with 12V power for control), or strictly off 120V when plugged in to shore power.
I'm unsure if the freezer portion will get cold enough to keep things frozen (like icecream), but it might. It looks like your fridge is a single door with a freezer tray at the top. I had a dorm fridge with a freezer flap and if I turned it down cold enough it would freeze stuff in there, and slush everything else that wasn't. My 2-door unit in my trailer keeps things frozen.
I will start my fridge at least 12hrs before I plan on loading it with food. The temperature is auto-controlled so I don't have to mess with that. There are many debates regarding traveling with the fridge on propane (some do, some don't, some say it is safe, some say it is not, some say no tunnels with it on, some say turn it off while at a gas station...). I travel with mine on propane, never stopped prior to approaching a gas station and shut the fridge off.
Stuff usually stays where I put it. Items will jiggle along the door tray if there isn't many items in there. I've never had food swap shelves or attempt escape when the door was opened.