My trailer didn't move for 19mo. I did nothing more than run the stabilizers down on the 4 corners on top of a wood block to keep them from wearing in to the dirt/gravel base. Then I wrapped the trailer with a OSB skirt backed with 1" foam insulation. Lived in it during the week.
At the end of my assignment, I pulled the 'skirting', added a little air to the tires, then pulled 300mi home. That was over a year ago, still on the same tires.
If you know you are going to stay for a awhile, I would jack on the frame near the spring hanger, pull the tires, then lower down on to a block with a wood topper placed either on the u-bolts or just next to the u-bolts (depending on your spring/axle configuration). Watch out for lowering the trailer too much so that you can get underneath and access plumbing and electrical if necessary.
The amount of light that is passed in to the trailer. You may want a smoked or black for a bedroom if you wish to reduce the amount of light.
I have white on all of mine, and by themselves reduce some light. I added 'heavy duty' vent plastics on two that needed to be replaced, which reduced light entry even more. I have foam/foil pillows for the vents to insulate and eliminate any light entry, so the white covers were the best choice for me.
Replace the downpipe from the turbo, if it hasn't been done already. The stock downpipe is mashed flat to clear the firewall. Banks (and others) make a round downpipe that flows much better than stock, and mates up with the rest of the factory exhaust.
We ran a Banks Get-Kit on a '95 PSD with an auto and 4.10. It fueled hard enough that you would have to back out of it on the long pulls because of exhaust temperatures (may have been partially because of truck age). It was a different truck with the downpipe and piggyback chip. We finally started overpowering the torque convertor clutch at around 250k, and the truck was sold because of an upgrade to an '01 Cummins 6spd.
It all depends on how much you want to spend. A new compressor wheel, an upgraded turbo with larger turbo housing, more fuel, add an intercooler, and the list goes on. The Get-Kit was a Saturday install, and made a world of difference.
I have a pie-shaped lot in a cul-de-sac. The back yard is much wider than the front and driveway.
I have to dodge the fire hydrant on my right, then dodge the corner of the house on my left, then dodge the edge of the gate on my right, then dodge the truck cover on my left when backing in my trailer.
The day I brought my trailer home, I forgot about the height and ran the top rear corner against the rain gutter of the house; no damage other than the rain gutter.
About 4 years later, I catch the rear awning leg on the gate, ripping the two lag bolts out of the wall.
2 weeks ago, pulling the trailer out to the front to prep for a trip, I forgot about the trailer height again and caught the gutter with the roof at mid-trailer. I expected destroyed rubber roof, just cracked a little breather cover.
I ran Dyna Beads on my motorcycle tires and I never had an issue with them getting stuck inside the valve stem.
I use air-soft pellets now (generic brand, non-marking from Walmart). They are too big to fit in a valve stem, are cheaper, and work just as well.
Turn the Eco-Mode off on the generator to help eliminate this problem.
The inrush on the A/C overloads the generator and it has a hard time getting the engine up to speed when this happens. With the Eco-mode off, the generator can better handle the inrush.
The air conditioner is run via 120VAC, and will have its own circuit breaker.
The fuse in question powers what exactly? Something that was added... Thermostat maybe? Something the previous owner did. Pull the fuse and see what stops working. Unless the wire is small (18ga or smaller), I wouldn't worry about the fuse being a 15A.
The empty slots are usually spares. I added a 12V cig-style plug near the bed in my trailer for a car charger for my phone, and used one of the spare slots and added the appropriate fuse for the wire I pulled (15A).
I bet a 100W inverter would charge the jumper-box. They have those little transformer plugs and the charging current is very low.
The one I had came with a male-male 12V cig plug to use the recept on the box and plug it in to the outlet in the truck/trailer. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do the same.
My rig is very similar to yours (see sig). Before bikes I'm right at the 6k weight (around 750 on the tongue when all empty, but I'm sure it is a little more since when I bought the trailer and we've loaded more stuff in it and in the storage area), and have gone over 7k total trailer weight before. My fresh is right at the axles, then black, then gray as we move toward the tongue so my tongue gets heavier as the trip goes on.
I've been running nearly 5yrs without WD on my current setup. Prior to this truck, I used a '97 GM half-ton with a 4-Way Equilizer. Back to back, I think the half-ton was ever so slightly more stable. I gave the WD hitch to my father in law, but recently got it back out of curiosity of what difference it would make on my combination.
We made a quick run last weekend about an hour from the house and I just slapped the hardware on the trailer the night before. I know I'm not getting enough transfer onto the steer axle. With that said, I didn't notice any benefit to the steering-stability of the rig. If anything it seemed like my truck did not want to return to center as well and would want to continue to turn while driving sweeping curves, but I recall my old truck doing that as well with the WD installed. It did however reduce the bounce that I had on the rear axle during overpass transfers or other large bumps in the road.
I'm going to get it setup correctly for the next trip and see how it does. I doubt I will go out and buy another one unless there is a mindblowing difference, which I don't expect there to be.
Do you think I'd be OK using the 15 amp circuit?
Yes, it is. I frequently run my A/C off of a 15A circuit. I just plug in to the nearest exterior outlet at my house (side when parked, out front when preparing for a trip). I do however select the fan-only mode first and allow the fan to come up to speed before going to 'cool' and getting the compressor started. This reduces the inrush and voltage drop during those first couple seconds.
The scare about all of this is people using those cheap 16ga extension cords to reach somewhere, and are usually twice as long as they need to be. Running the A/C off of your supplied 'shore' cable is acceptable, but if you need a longer reach, a 12ga or 10ga (preferred) is required to reduce/eliminate the voltage drop that will be seen when using a lighter duty cable.
Remember, typical 15A circuit in your home is 14ga wire.
Way back in the day, our Lance TC had the cable near the front, so the plug was in front of the wheel well.
All the gooseneck trucks we have now have the plug installed near the tailgate, for ease of access for making the connection while the tailgate is open.
I've been debating actually mounting my gen to the tongue (on the gen box that is already there), and routing a cable to plug in just for this reason.
Yes you can do it. Just be well aware of your cable routing and attaching to the trailer so that it does not drag.
My 2000 GM C2500 is a semi floater. Granted a C14 10.5" R&P. The BB got a full floater. I have 8 lugs, 10 ply tires, 8600 gvwr etc etc.
Never seen one... Learn something new every day. I thought all got the FF and only the LD2500 (or heavy half, the 6-lug was still the SF axle). I never have seen an 8 lug SF.
Usually bigger brakes, heavier springs, full floating rear axle possibly a few other minor details....
Those Chevy 3/4 trucks didn't have a full floating axle. Also add in heavier frame.
You must be thinking of the LD2500 6-lug... They had the 14B SF axle (I had a '97 K15 with the Semi Floater 14). But a true 8-lug 2500 series does have the full floater.
I would wait for the big block. I drove a late 90's 1-ton (crew/dually) with the 350 and it flat out sucked, and I ran a '97 K1500 to 244k before I sold it. Sorry, the L31 350 just doesn't have the torque. If you could find one that was 4.10 gears AND was a 5spd manual AND was an absolute cream puff, then I might go for it. The extra gear and ability to hold a gear will help a bunch.
I pulled my sig trailer (6000lbs empty) with my K15 350/60E/3.73 and it was less than satisfying. I was right at my 12k GCWR. I was continually watching my throttle application in an effort to keep the torque convertor locked in 3rd in an effort to keep the transmission temperature at an acceptable level. The 80E wont make a difference here. I actually added a lock-up switch to force the TC to lock just to control transmission temps, and that was with the factory aux cooler plus a cooler that I added. The engine still had a little power available, but trans tuning and capacity was sub-par.
A 5spd stick running in 3rd and 4th, and a Blackbear tune on the engine, and it could work, as long as you don't try to go cross country with it.
If you pass through the Salt Lake City area...
Travel your way down to Huntington or Castle Dale Utah. You are going to want to go to the Wedge Overlook (Google Maps: Rd 332 from Huntington, or Rd 401 from Castle Dale). Both roads are the same condition, with 401 being a tiny bit wider but both allowing 2 vehicles to pass each other. These are maintained dirt and you can get going a good clip across there.
After the Wedge Overlook, continue East to the Buckhorn Draw road (rd 332), and go south. This will take you past a few petroglyph walls, and continue on through a canyon till you cross the Green River (there is a bridge). Then continue on to the I-70 interstate where you can head east toward Moab. There is camping at the Wedge Overlook and in many pullouts along the Buckhorn Draw Rd. Many spots, just find one and pull in. We pitched a tent inside the cave on Buckhorn Draw last fall.
You can also continue on via dirt road (Temple Mtn Rd after you cross I-70) to the Goblin Valley State Park (also accessible via paved road from I-70). From here, you can choose to go south to Hanksville/Blanding then back north to Moab (longer route, but way way more scenic!!!), or go back to I-70 and go south in to Moab (shorter route). If you've got the time, go the long way!
Are you going to be passing through Missoula Montana? I did this route in my truck last fall (slept under the tonneau cover on my way to Canada).
Go south out of Missoula to Grantsdale, take the 38 East; the 38 is maintained dirt with a paved section at each end. Good views, some minor switchbacks, passes you by a waterfall right next to the road. You could get a 20-something foot trailer over that road no problem. Continue on to Anaconda then go south on the 569 (paved) on the East side of Anaconda and go to Wise River. At Wise River, go south on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway (paved), and will take to past the Coolidge Mine (accessible via good dirt road, plenty of boondock camp opportunities, but the mine is a little bit of a walk from the parking area. You can ride dirtbike, 4 wheeler, SxS, or bicycle to the site though, just no Jeeps/trucks). Then continue on south and get on the I-15. This route keeps you in the mountains in the cooler temperatures for the summer months. I drove this September last year, and camped just south of the Coolidge Mine, was in the upper 40's in the morning if I remember correctly, and didn't sweat at all during the walk around the mine.
Just curious. Side lights would already be on after dark with headlights on. What benefit comes from turning the side lights on steady during the day time? Apparently I am missing something.
Think side/turn flood lights for illumination.
Be patient with me, it has been awhile since I've worked with SS relays. I remember the 'coil' having next to no load.
Would/could you parallel the coil with a resistor to pull down the voltage (bleed the capacitor) to de-energize the relay? If so, you could run a smaller cap and a higher ohm resistor, and adjust the resistor size to control the delay time until the light is shut off. Do you have any components now (a known capacitor size and a few resistors) to establish a baseline for what the SS relay load is?
The 88 ohm coil is confusing me; I looked at it as an 88 ohm load on the cap and my cap size was determined based on that...
At what voltage does the coil release the contact?
At 88 Ohms, 1 second discharge time, from 14.4V to 8V, you would need a 20000uF.
30000uF gets you 1.5 sec to 8V
I'm lazy, didn't remember the RC formula from college, looked it up online and said "nope", and found an online calculator.