I did mine the same way as boogie cept I mounted the solenoid valve and pump on the inside of the bed adjacent to the tank. mine is permanent so I wanted the valve and pump to have the cleaner environment.
Works slick as snot since i have installed a fuel gauge for the aux also.
Heck yeah. I guess anybody who knocks the 'amount of work' involved to install this route (easily done in a Saturday) just doesn't get it :@ You're pulling one wire from the engine bay to the fuel filler area, and dealing with a few feet of fuel line.
I've flipped the switch countless times to transfer fuel on the fly. It doesn't limit you to requiring to stop if you don't need to, and you aren't stuck transferring fuel at a stop after a rest break when you could be pounding out some more miles. Maybe I don't need the rest breaks as often?
Earlier this year on a trip to Arkansas I saw a guy stopped near a fuel station who had to;
Pop his hood
Connect the pump power leads to the battery
Transfer fuel to the main tank
Roll everything back up
During this whole thing, the rest of his family had gone inside to grab snacks and do their thing, then after all of that he went inside for his turn. During this I was able to refill a 55g aux and stuff another 15+g in to the main tank.
Place the pump, solenoid valve, and inline filter on the truck beneath the bed. Plumb in the tank to the existing filler neck. Add ball valve on discharge of tank before it goes through the truck bed. This way you can fill on the fly (which is a huge plus, have done 3 trucks this way).
When you need to remove the tank, close the valve and plug the line.
You can get universal tank selector solenoids for pretty cheap, and wire the solenoid and fuel pump together to the upfitter so that the pump runs and the valve opens at the same time.
My trailer didn't move for 19 months when I lived in it away from home on weekdays for a work project.
The tires sat on the gravel/dirt with tire covers over them, and nothing more than the stabilizing jacks being down. After that period of time, I checked the tire pressures and added a few pounds as necessary, hooked up the truck and pulled it over 300 miles home.
No bearing issues, no flat spots on my tires, no rubber leaching, no seized up brakes.
'01 6spd with Edge-EZ I cannot get the coolant out of the 'normal' range on the gauge. Maybe the hot trans temps helped push the engine temperature up?
As Old-Biscuit said, the 47/48RE transmissions do not circulate fluid in Park, so extended idle and cooldowns should be done with the transmission in Neutral.
If you frequent these speeds/pulls, install a lock-up switch so that you can manually lock the torque convertor to keep the transmission cooler.
I did a climb last summer with slow traffic and construction that had me running 20-30mph (my TC auto locks above 25mph when I manually select 2nd), and I was at 218* on the trans but the coolant temp stayed in check (maybe 210* at the most). When traffic stopped, I set my high idle at 1500rpm and in Neutral to get airflow across the exchanger for the trans.
A roundabout in Cameron and street lights? All it consists of is the Trading Post. Amazing.
I just looked it up and it's for the intersection with Hwy 64 - the east entrance to Grand Canyon National Park.
Not stop lights, just road illumination. There are a ton of them, 3 times as many as there needs to be, and since the road is divided they are along both sides of the road. Cameron is going to be lit up bright!
For the flattest route.
Flag to Page on 89
Page to Kanab
Kanab to Fredonia
Fredonia to Hurricane
Hurricane to Toquerville, continue north to I-15
Go north on I-15 to Provo, then take Exit-272 (Hwy 52/800N) to Hwy189 to Heber.
Cameron has a lot of construction going on right now with the roundabout they are installing (and all that money wasted on street lights). The 89 is rough as you approach the Tuba City turnoff so watch your speed in that area.
If you are wanting to avoid hills, do not go north from Kanab to Panguitch and take the 20 over to the I-15. Fun on a bike or in a car, not so fun for a big rig. I have no issues with it personally.
Your big hills are;
Uphill, Big Cut on 89, ~32mi south of Page.
Downhill, 12mi hill, ~12mi south of Page.
Uphill, near Paria Movie Set, ~37mi north of Page.
Downhill, dropping in to Hurricane, slow speeds and curves
Uphill, climbing out of Toquerville
Uphill, as soon as you get on the I-15
Uphill, Black Ridge, I-15 between mm 32-37
Place one or two 2x4 blocks under the ramp ground pads to raise the ramp up slightly; bike should have no issue climbing a small 'curb' to get onto the ramp.
Stand up off of the bike as you breakover to the trailer floor (to take load off of the suspension.
Lift the nose of the trailer some to reduce the breakover angle, or place truck rear tires on blocks/ramps to lift front of trailer.
All I'm going to add to this is to use a fork brace instead of compressing the forks when tied down. Fast stops, and the forward/rearward bouncing on the trailer could cause the bike to lean 'forward' and the handlebar could contact the trailer as the front suspension compresses more (and also causes slack on the opposite strap).
I carry my XR400 on a hitch carrier on my truck (tonneau cover), and my last truck had a camper shell and I packed a porky KLX650 on it.
What triggers the exhaust brake to engage? Throttle Position switch (release throttle and it triggers a small limit switch on the pedal to complete the circuit)? I'd be looking in to whatever triggers the brake to engage.
What Allison should have told you is that the World Controller (assuming you have one) does have the ability to accept an input when the EB is active to select a lower gear automatically, and the transmission will auto-downshift to keep the engine revved and the brake supplying a higher amount of braking horsepower. Your truck may or may not have this feature.
On a International 4400 (DT570/Allison combo), when the EB was on and throttle released, the transmission controller selected 2nd gear (shown in the display), and as speed slowed the transmission downshifted to keep the engine revved to apply more braking force.
Actually looks like it is slightly behind the axle as the camper took 20 lb from front axle.
Now when your short and light camper do real trick to rear axle weight, think what mine does.
Your truck is hurting my brain. 2nd Gen Dodge bed. What is going on?
Major fueling points that I can remember, so I will add them.
Carlin, NV has a Chevron and a Flying J/Pilot. The truck stop is usually busy and usually has a line on the semi fueling lanes. The chevron has diesel available on the outer pumps and are accessible to larger rigs if not being blocked by a minivan.
An easy access fueling location in Elko is the East exit, on the north side (Sinclair? Chevron?) that has a large pad that could be easily navigated. The down side to fueling here is the uphill on-ramp. I would skip stopping in Elko altogether.
Wells, Nv is littered with fuel stations. Both major carriers on the south side of the interstate are easily navigated to high volume or light duty pumps.
North out of Wells to ID I cannot help with.
Maybe, maybe not.
My 21' with an Equalizer 4-way on a 1/2-ton was solid. I gave the hitch setup to my FIL for his rig when I got my larger truck. I'm thinking about getting another one, but it isn't a high priority on my list. I do feel some push from larger vehicles passing by sometimes, and that is with running max pressure in the truck (80) and trailer (50).
I have a 2010 Forest River Shockwave MX-T21FS (MX Series, Toy hauler, 21 feet, fuel station). The sticker claims a UVW of 49XXlbs, but it really weighs nearly 6k before water/bikes/food. I picked mine up as the last one on the lot in the summer/fall of 2010 and paid $18-19k.
Here is a link to the current model.
I see that it got heaver in the last 6 years. Gained more water capacity (mine is 53/40/40), front bed went from a full to a queen, toilet is spun around, and other little differences.
The floor plan is very similar to the link that you posted. Front bed (but mine is an east-west type so my head is on the left side of the trailer and my feet at the right side, and has only 1 closet. Kitchen is on the same side as in your link, bathroom is similar. I did see that the newer years from mine have moved the bathroom sink into the bathroom, where mine is outside the shower/toilet area and available to the whole trailer. My trailer has full length cabinets along both walls all the way to the ramp, so no rear drop down bunks. I do have a couch on each side that folds flat for another adult on each side, and the table(s) have removable post that set in to the floor for the couches.
I haul an assortment of dirt bikes, and my cruiser is a VTX1800T (barely over 8' length total, with factory saddle bags). I could fit a pair of them if it was necessary, but it would be a tight fit. For me, it would require one of them to be loaded backward and tied down with the front tire against the ramp, the 2nd one to be loaded facing forward and sitting in mid trailer, and the rears would need to be kicked sideways some to clear each other. A 23-24' would help with this a bunch; the kitchen would no longer be in the way, and both bikes could be faced rearward against the ramp and be parallel with each other. This would require a winch to drag them in backward.
I do not have a dove/beaver on my trailer, and have to be on a very unlevel spot or have the hind-end in the air to make the VTX grab at the breakover point; don't get me wrong, I've had that happen in a spot before.
Electric element may be burned out from being powered without water in the tank.
Run on propane...
Turn on switch. Light will illuminate for a few seconds and then the water heater should light and the switch light will go out. The burner will remain lit until the water is hot (~10-15 minutes depending on your water heater size. I've never timed mine, I'm just grasping a time out of the air).
You could walk outside and listen for the burner and feel heat from the water heater door on the outside.