The heat pads cannot be used on a double wall. As Dave said, the tanks are supposed to be partially full to help absorb the amount of heat that they give off.
I have twin 40g holding tanks and bought the 120VAC pads. They did a great job on my exposed tanks in -20*F (trailer was skirted with OSB). If you were to travel, then the combo AC/DC pads could be a benefit, but heating elements work via electrical current and would have the ability to pull the battery(s) down quickly.
They would be powered separately, you would turn on/plug in the AC plug or flip on the DC switch; they will not automatically switch over.
My Dodge sometimes sits for a couple months without being touched.
Full diesel, no additives necessary unless you are worried about gelling.
I connect a battery maintainer under the hood and shut it (keeps the snow of the maintainer).
No worries about the tires, or oil or other fluids.
Purchase (or go to Home Depot and get the parts to make your own) adapter for city water connection to your air compressor hose.
Adjust compressor regulator to ~45psi.
Drain and bypass water heater. If no bypass, then drain and install plug/anode.
Hook up compressor to adapter on trailer.
Work your way through the trailer, starting at your guess of the farthest away shower/faucet/sink/toilet/sprayer and run till no more water comes out.
Open low point drains and blow till no water.
Remove compressor, open all faucets.
Remove water heater drain/anode (if you didn't have a bypass) to drain newly acquired volume of water.
The door handle lock is working as designed. It will not unlock when opened from the inside of the trailer.
It is just like some door knobs at your home; some require you to unlock them before you can open them from the inside, and some allow you to open them from the inside and then they lock you out.
I was using a tarp for the last few years. I did get some minor marking on the sides of the trailer from rope knots rubbing, but nothing major.
Did have a bad wind storm earlier this year and it caused the tarp to slap a side window hard enough to crack it... The packing tape is starting to peel, I need to replace that window.
In 5 years of ownership, I honestly don't think the tarp/cover has gained me much other than making the vent covers last longer. I spent 26mo living in the trailer, so it didn't get covered then, and it didn't get covered if there was ever a chance that we were going to go camping, so it was only covered for 3 winters, and uncovered for the rest of the time. My graphics still look great. I just cover the tires now, and hose it off before we head out.
Had a '95 crew with the 40-20-40 and they were adjustable.
Looked at buying a '97 regular cab that was a 40-20-40, but there isn't much room to recline.
Oh wait, we're talking about the SD, so they started in what, '98? They had them since '98.
It's winter time... Did it act the same last year during colder weather?
The lack of smoothness is most likely 1 or more cylinders not firing on the first few rotations while the other 7/6/5 are.
You can use a multimeter to check the resistance of each glow plug (remove the splash guard on the passenger side, I think you need to remove the driver's side as well, can't remember). Disconnect the wiring to the glow plug then test. Look for one that has a high/open compared to the others.
You can also cycle the key more than once to time the plugs a second time for additional heat. Had a PSD that about half the plugs were shot (gotta pull valve covers and it's a bigger job than on the 6.5L or the LBZ). It was a rockin, shakin, smoke puffing ride for the first few seconds.
The wheel brakes and brake lights are separate circuits. Actually the brakes lights are divided into left and right side...
The breakaway switch will not activate any lights, only supply the brake magnets with the trailer battery voltage.
Did 2 aux tanks like that. The small line and an in line filter keeps the flow rate slow. Added an in line pump to boost the flow rate so that it would transfer in a reasonable amount of time.
+1 on the 1/4 turn ball at the aux tank outlet. Nice if you have a leak or need to pull the tank for any reason.
Dodge/Ram has an optional Camper Package. This includes the upper overloads and rear sway bar for the 2500 (like what the 3500 has from the factory). Mine is missing this package and these items, so it also says that it is not recommended for TC use.
It is not recommended because of the rear suspension capacity, but not forbidden.
This is where air bags, Timbrens, lower stableloads, ect, would come in to play to assist the rear suspension with the weight of the TC.
Figure ~3000lb on the rear axle empty, or 7500lb truck (this is what mine weighs last time I went and got a load of gravel on their crappy scale). 2500lb of gravel put me at 9900lbs gross (with a 9k GVWR), and I had 5500lb on the rear axle (I don't remember what my RAWR is, but have 6390lb worth of tire rating).
We shopped for a TC earlier this year, decided not to since we have 2 kids that are only going to get bigger. Now remember that I have a long bed so the center of gravity will most likely be forward of my rear axle (loading the front axle some), we looked at ~8.5' hard walls, and longer popups, and my goal was to stay below 2500-2800lbs loaded, so that I could pull a smaller trailer with dirt bikes or SxS. With you having a short bed, expect more of the TC weight to be on the rear axle and less (if any) going on the front axle. Now this doesn't matter that you don't have the Camper Package on your truck, this is just general concerns for any truck carrying a TC. You quickly get into your max axle/tire capacity. This is why you will see many single wheel trucks going to an alternate tire size or to 19.5" for the additional capacity.
Shorten the angle iron about 1/4". Weld a piece of flat bar on each end of the angle iron, and have 2 holes in the flat bar, one on each side for bolts. Now bolt the angle iron tank supports to the trailer frame.
My gray did similar, this seems to have fixed it. It allows a tiny bit of flex that the trailer experiences while moving. I've always got water in a tank; fresh on the way out, the others on the way home.
3 bolts gets you access to the t-stat. It's right there in front on top for easy access.
You won't lose much coolant. You can drain a little down into a bucket and capture for refill. Just remove the radiator cap first before you partial drain so that it doesn't suck the overflow dry.
Most off the shelf front receiver hitches will have their capacity met or exceeded with that pig KLR flopping around on the front. The truck however has the capacity to carry it.
With the right structure, I wouldn't hesitate to pack around something as big as a WeeStrom on the front of my truck, but the Wing would be a little much.
I've stuck my XR400 (a little over 300lbs) on my front hitch before and think there was more of a mental difference than a physical difference.
Depends on load.
Added a set to a '14 Ram 1-ton to help support a very pin heavy horse trailer with slide out. Works great for the horse trailer, and unloaded ride is comparable to not having them. The gap allows for small bumps in the road but a larger one, or a speed bump can be felt as 'firmer'.
A lighter load is where they do not shine. We ran a gooseneck flatbed with a tractor and it barely engaged the Timbrens. Rode terrible since there wasn't enough room to allow the suspension to cycle, and the Timbrens were constantly coming in and out of contact, changing the spring rate. Stopped and took them off (2 bolts), and it made it ride stock again.
For lighter or constantly varying loads, bags or something else is the way to go. The same trailer or same TC, Timbrens would be a good investment.
We looked at getting a TC for my sig truck. I was pretty set on Timbrens if we would have got the TC.
I can't afford a 2013, so that's not a choice. I don't drive the truck much when not pulling the trailer, but do make sure it gets driven at least once a week. My choice is between an 05 to 07 5.9, or a 07 to 09 6.7.
Owning an '05, my complaint is with having only 4 gears. 6spds are hard to come by (or want a stupid amount of money for). My dad's '01 6spd Cummins (Edge-EZ) is almost better in the hills than mine, only because of the closer ratios.
Because of that alone, I would be tempted to go with a '07.5+ to get the 6spd auto.
When I purchased, I wasn't hard set on a 5.9L, but was about 90% sure I wanted a 3rd Gen body style, and really wanted a MegaCab for my growing family. My goal was finding a very clean well kept truck with the options I desired (4wd, 4 doors, not a work truck model).
I bought my '05 4yrs ago with 62k on it for $24500 (SS step bars, fiberglass tonneau cover, sprayed bed liner, BigHorn Package). I have 111k on it now without issue. Gets ~13mpg towing my 6k toyhauler. The back seat is a little cramped being the quad cab, but it works for us, and at least I was able to get a long bed, but I do still dream of a MegaCab from time to time.
If I would have found my truck, for my price, and it had a 6.7L, I would have bought it. I would have lost some fuel economy, but gained towing ability, which is what I use mine for the most anyway.
Just after I got married, we traveled a bunch in a half-ton truck with shell. Drove all over Colorado, traveled to Washington and Oregon, or even short trip overnighters just to get out of the city. I miss it.
Just a shell is light weight, and can go wherever the truck can go.
Never had issues with water coming in during rain. Did have stuff get covered in dust when driving down dirt roads, but that could be helped with weatherstripping in the gap between the bed and tailgate.
We looked at getting rid of the TH and going with a popup-TC, but it would be a tight fit with 2 kids now, so the trailer stays.
I did a solo trip into Canada in August; took the truck for a 2200mi drive, and slept in the back on the way there and back (fiberglass tonneau cover). Got poured on and wind blown on the way home, stayed dry in the bed. And I do want to get rid of the tonneau and get a shell just for room to sleep if 1 kid and I go out.
Go to walmart and buy a $50 car radio. Or splurge and get a nicer one. Even check out Crutchfield (do a search, they have a ton of stuff).
Almost all have 40-50w of power power channel and will not require an external amplifier.
Plug in the parallel signal cables, but not the power cables.
Connect only the Neutral side of the plug from each generator (to eliminate a floating neutral differential between the two).
Measure the voltage between the plugs of each generator on the Line/Hot. It should be 0VAC (or really close to it) meaning that they have synced phasing. If there is a voltage difference between the two, then they haven't synced and very bad things will happen if they are paralleled.
Shoot, even connecting the paralleling cables could goof up the internals and it would never have parallel capability again.