I worked on one of those about 11yrs back. It was a 3 axle, 4 horse unit. Some guy brought it to the shop to have us clean up the fenders and respray the whole thing. I hope he replaced the boards inside, I wouldn't trust it with my horses...
It didn't look nearly as good as the pictures you posted.
Unless it is the 'off-season', don't pull through Zion, small vehicle traffic is terrible, the road is tight, you won't be able to find parking easily, and you will be a bottleneck. Take 89 and stay in Mt Caramel or Glendale. Then drive just the truck through the park to the west side and do your running around. Then you can just continue north on 89 to Bryce.
389/59 to Hurricane is a safe and easy road. The 20 from I-15 to Panguitch is a strap pull with the sharp turns on the east side as you head downhill. It's not bad, take a 30' horse trailer that route often.
I prefer wood to a metal deck. I can't keep paint on the plate, so it looks terrible after a year.
A 16' 7k trailer would be plenty for the Miata.
My current 16x 7k has the ramps that store under the rear right side. Can't get them out if you are parked next to another vehicle, or doing a recovery on the side of the freeway and there is a wall there. Rear storage or planning ahead is a good idea.
The DW is caused by worn steering and/or front axle components.
Father in Law's '98.5 2500, leveled
Friend had two '99 2500, one leveled, one lifted
My dad's '01 3500, stock
My '05 2500, stock
My dad's '14 3500, stock
Out of all of those, and all the miles, I know of only one death wobble episode happening, and it was to me on my dad's '01. It had at least 250k miles on it at the time, I was in a slow sweeping left turn at around 50mph, running empty. I crossed a diagonal expansion joint on the highway for a bridge and the front end started wobbling. I lightly pressed the brakes and slowed to at least under 40 and it stopped. I sped back up like nothing ever happened.
My dad said that is the first time the truck had ever done that (he was riding with me). That was a few years ago, and it hasn't done it since.
From my interweb cruising, it seems more likely to happen on a lifted/modified truck versus a stock one. With that said, it happened to me on a stock suspension, stock sized tire.
Death Wobble is the least of my worries.
Maddox in Brigham City is a good stop for lunch.
After that, take I-84 from Ogden to Heber and avoid the chaos of the Salt Lake area.
In SLC you have,
The Natural History of Utah Museum https://nhmu.utah.edu
The Hogle Zoo just south of that https://www.hoglezoo.org/
The aquarium on 11400 South exit http://www.thelivingplanet.com/
There is a Mining Museum in Park City, but I haven't been to it yet.
A couple years ago, the asphalt condition was excellent and I loved going that direction on my motorcycle heading to Leadville for work.
The views are great, but watch your speed as you head toward Minturn. Few tighter turns with minor switchbacks at Minturn.
I encountered semis from time to time. You won't have any issues with your combo.
The wind isn't going to grab the nose of the trailer and reduce the tongue weight.
Move more stuff forward to increase the tongue weight, and that will also cause the truck to squat a little more and get the tongue down to make the trailer more level.
Loose connection on the circuit. The fridge draws power and pulls down the voltage, so the propane side tries to light. Since the fridge is no longer on the 120V power, the voltage on the circuit creeps back up. The fridge sees that AC power is available and tries to switch over, and the cycle continues.
Turn off the 'Auto' on the fridge to force it to gas operation. Shut off the circuit breaker for the outlets with the issue, then check all connection points and prove that they are tight (on the CB, and on the back of the outlets).
If you understand the relationship between boost and EGT a set of gauges can be a helpful diagnostic tool.
Similar on an 01 Cummins. Had a MAP sensor get lazy and send incorrect readings. Caused exhaust temps to go into the unsafe range. Would have never known there was an issue without the pyrometer. The mechanical boost showed 'normal' pressure, but a failed electronic part can cause meltdown as well.
Being a 6.0L, I'd have a way to monitor ect and eot, and watch the difference between the two.
The last time I did Denver to SLC via Wyoming, the head wind was killer, and that was in an empty truck. I vowed to never again drive West on I-80.
Grand Junction to Green River is typical Interstate style, some climbing along the way, but nothing like you will have already dealt with all the way to Vail.
Green River to Price is a race track. There are twice as many people out in the middle of the desert for no reason, and they are driving ahellofa lot faster than they should be, and there is minimal patrol. With that said, there is one good climb and the rest is flat/minor grades.
From Price to Spanish Fork, you have a steep and windy climb out of Price, but there is a passing lane for the majority of it, and on the downhill side, there are plenty of passing lanes along the way.
If the wind doesn't blow, I-80 is to route to take.
We were at Disney over New Years weekend. I wanted to go to CSC and hopefully take one for a spin. I called them while we were in route to see when they were going to close for the weekend, and unfortunately was going to miss them by a couple hours because they were closing shop early. The guy I spoke to offered to stay late, but I told him to hit the road and enjoy his time off in case we had issues, and I knew my wife and kids would be upset with the first stop being a bike shop.
I had a '97 GMC K1500 (350/4L60E/3.73) that had a 6600lb GVWR. The GCWR was 12k and the max trailer weight was 6500lbs. I do not remember what the 4.10 axle gained you for weight, and what the 3.42 made you lose.
For a trailer at 3k, you will be just fine. Depending on grade and wind resistance, you will most likely need to still lock out 4th. With the 3.42 gears, you will still be under the peak torque output in 3rd at speed.
If you desire to monitor the transmission temperature, a probe can easily be added to the pressure test port located on the driver's side of the transmission, just above where the shift linkage ties to the case.
Trucks of that era did not come with transmission coolers at all.
The transmission cooler is due to the fact that there is no torque converter lockup, so the power is transmitted through the transmission fluid, which makes it hot.
They did come with transmission coolers. They were oil/water units built in to the radiator. Some were optioned with a second aux oil/air cooler that was located on the passenger side of the grille area. Mine (without the tow package) included the aux transmission cooler.
Also, these did have a locking torque convertor. They locked in 3rd and 4th (OD), but they did not have a Tow/Haul mode to change the shift and lockup strategy.
With shore/gen power and you starting the truck engine, the isolator will close and tie the chassis (truck) battery to the rest of the system. The voltage regulator for the alternator will most likely keep the alternator from charging and the converter will continue to charge, but it is possible that the engine alternator takes the full load and the converter will stop charging.
In the panel building world, with 2 power supplies that are paralleled and are not designed to be paralleled, one will take the full load while the other loafs along doing next to nothing. The small difference in 'desired' charging voltage will cause the lower voltage unit (even though both are theoretically the same voltage) to simply lower and stop the output.
I've had my truck running and connected to my trailer while still on shore power. Same thing as you've drawn. It is similar to jump starting a vehicle (battery charger + alternator, or alternator + alternator).
would you buy one?
I've been watching these for about a year and have been reading some of their blogs. One of them just came up for sale in my area on the local classifieds, and I've been tempted to go for a test ride (it has about 300mi on it). I'm half joking half serious that the guy is not happy with it or it is just under powered.
The RX3 appeals for a light, 'adventure' ready bike. It is a cheap purchase, and they are stupid easy to maintain. Side and top cases, and crash bars included. The ease of valve adjustments on the RX3 appeal to me (tappets, just like on my XR400), making at-home maintenance even easier (the KLR is shim over bucket).
Honestly, I'd go get a used KLR650. The aftermarket for the KLR is HUGE, they've had very minor engine changes since the early 90's, they make much more power, have a higher payload, more suspension travel, and have a higher speed.
I owned a '94 KLX650R that I made street legal. Swapped it out for a '96 XR400R (435, ported head, cam, carb, pipe, street legal). My street ride is a VTX1800T. I've logged over 200mi by dirt on day trips, and average over 8k per year on the VTX. Me going to a wheezy 250 would bore me to death.
I know it is a different type of riding, but once you load this thing up with cases full of stuff, 2-lane riding is going to work it hard.
It boils down to what type of riding are you going to do with the bike? If you don't plan on getting into anything more than a gravel road not too far from the house, the RX3 could do it for you. A KLR will take you through rougher terrain, have more comfort on the road, and would be better suited for longer trips.
I lose my mind around the new Africa Twin. It would fit me perfectly (or a KTM 690/950, or BMW 800/1200 GS). I'm going used for the next bike, so I need a little seat time on each to make a decision.
1. Junction box/cover plate and the 30A rv receptacle (TT-30R?)
Yes. That is the correct female plug, assuming that your trailer has the equal male plug on the power cable.
2. 10 gauge electric wire
NEC states 10ga for a 30A circuit in this application. 10/2 romex for the run between the circuit breaker panel and the location of your trailer recept.
8ga could be substituted for the 10 on a longer run; this depends on the location of the main or sub panel that you are getting the power from.
3. 30A breaker? What kind/type?
30A single-pole breaker that is equivalent to the rest of the breakers being used in the panel. You may or may not be able to get a breaker type off of the face, and will need to pull the dead-front off to see what type of breaker you will need for your distribution panel. You may (should) find a sticker on the panel that lists the acceptable breaker manufacturer and model.
4. and a 100ft 30A rv extension cable?
Can I use the cheaper house electric cable rated for 30A and just the adpater?
Technically you shouldn't, but you can.
Romex is not rated to be outside, and must be protected. The proper 30A extension cable from Wal-Mart, or if you get a good deal on some 10ga or larger S.O. or other armored cable, you can make your own.
The last time I checked (a little over a year ago), it was cheaper to buy the molded cable from Wal-Mart than what I could by the cable and equivalent plugs for!