Coiled and in a tupperware plastic bin. All my fresh water stuff (hoses, spare rubber washers, 90* fitting for inlet, water filter(s), pressure regulator, spare hose ends) goes in a large plastic bin.
All my holding tank drainage stuff goes in another similar bin with lid; slinky hoses, backwash attachment, 90* threaded fitting for sewer line, ect.
My trailer is 6k-7k (depending on toys) with more tongue weight than what you've got. I do not use a WD hitch.at 7000 lbs doesn't it put too much pressure to the rear axle and tires of your vehicle?
No way, not at all. My tongue weight is in the 650-800 range (depending on packing and toys that may be loaded in the back). Throw the generator in the bed of the truck, maybe a gas can, fire wood, tool box, and all the other misc junk, and I'm no where near the rear axle or tire rating (or the GVWR of the truck for that matter).
You've got plenty of truck for that trailer. It could easily be towed with an older half ton, or a bunch of SUVs.
If it came with it, then you can use it.
On my combo, my trailer ranges at 6k-7k depending on toys (more TW without bikes). I do not use a WD. No loss of steering feel that I can tell, and the amount of squat is minimal.
Do not pull your trailer through the park...
Take 59/389 from Hurricane to Fredonia.
North on 89A from Fredonia to Kanab.
East on 89 from Kanab to Page to Flagstaff.
An alternate (harder pull up in to the trees, but more scenic) would be to take 89A south out of Fredonia to Jacob Lake to Bitter Springs to Flagstaff. The road from the bottom of the switchbacks East of Jacob Lake to Bitter Springs does not have a shoulder and is a little rougher. But, it is worth it. If you hate hills, hate going slow, hate roads with limited passing zones, or hate nice views, then don't go this way. For a light vehicle/car, going through Jacob Lake is slightly quicker.
Which is the better? You decide. Look at some Google Earth Pics overlooking the Vermillion Cliffs and Marble canyon area. If I didn't have inlaws that still lived in Page, I wouldn't take the Page route near as much.
I will block 1 or both axles on the side depending on how much lift I need. 1 axle gives you half the lift of the block height; so 1 2X10 = 1.5" thick will give you 1.5" lift when placed under both axles, but will give you only 3/4" lift when placed under one axle.
I'm cheap, and carry scrap lumber for leveling. But for you, go get some more blocks so that you can build enough of a ramp and have enough lift as required.
Our Buick Enclave has both the backup camera and the radar sensors. The sensors work really well at sensing items behind the car/SUV/crossover/minivan without sliding doors.
Ours will pick up most squared off curbs.
Will pick up walls/fencing to the side as I approach it (even if I would not hit them if I continued to back up straight.
I have a carport on the side of the house, 3" square tubing, covered with tin. The sensors will notify me of the carport while I'm backing under it, so it is picking up a 3" wide piece of steel that is ~2' to the side of it as it approaches.
Now a backup camera is a cheap addition to your existing vehicle, and can help in many situations, but I find that I don't actually look at the camera display very much (unless I'm hooking to a trailer or backing up close to something, or when the sensors alert me of something).
For what it's worth. I almost always park farther out in the parking spaces, usually pull through or on the end, or back in. I look and hope for nobody crammed next to me, makes it easier to load kids in the car seats.
Order the backup camera of your choice, then power it differently. An easy way to do it would be to grab power from a marker light but then your lights must always be on. Or you could pull a dedicated power source to the back of the trailer. The only difference is how you wire/power it.
With the burb, turn on all electrical loads (lights, fan at max speed, ect). Then push/pull/wiggle the small plug (2 wire?) on the alternator. Listen for a change in engine speed and load.
We found this to be the culprit on an '01 Dodge last year. The contacts inside the little plug had lost their 'spring' and no longer made good contact on the alternator to trigger it to charge.
The internals will flex and bow over time, and even as the frame twists slightly during leveling.
I just get it close and comfortable. I just place a torpedo level on the trailer frame on the tongue to get my front-back, and across the frame to get side to side. I did learn that the ripples in the siding on the nose are perfect to the frame, so I jam a level against the siding for my side-side leveling.
The only thing that raises an eyebrow on me is the loaded rear axle weight. Close to max tire rating, just watch what you load in the bed of the truck or in the front of the trailer beyond what you already have.
I'd run it!
There is a debate on soldering versus crimping (crimp nut, butt connector), and I've done both.
Regardless of which you choose, I always do this;
Smear liquid tape or rtv over the connection (over the solder joint or over the crimp) then slide heat shrink over the connection before the goop dries. Apply a heat gun starting in the middle and work your way to each end. This will squish the goop through the shrink and out the ends, covering the connection and surrounding area, and will result in a watertight connection that is much better than shrink alone.
The factory fuel tank is vented separately from the hose you are seeing on the filler neck. There is a vent to atmosphere located on the top of the tank. You can plumb in to the filler neck on the backside of the filler door for your aux.
I would add a dedicated circuit for the plug(s). Pull power directly from battery (fused). Add small $5 relay from parts store to supply power to plugs, and that is triggered by any keyed power source (the wipers, power windows, heater controls, ect) that is easily accessible at the interior fuse panel.
You've got 4wd, boondock at Lone Rock. Then anchor/tie the boat a few feet off the sand right in front of your camp.
Last I remember, Stateline ramp came out of the water before the Wahweap ramp did. But I haven't been down there lately... You could also stick it in the water at Lone Rock. I launched/retrieved a 19' runabout Lone Rock in a 2wd dually years back.
The farther north on the beach, the harder the ground is. As you go south the ground gets more sandy and 4wd is a must. Being June, you might expect to have to run down the beach a little ways. Don't forget to air down if you need to!
07-09 (and some people reported on the 2010) having multiple;
1. Transmission wave plate failures. Causes loss of gears 1-3-5-R.
2. Timing chain premature wear. Check engine light, then grows from there.
We have a 2012 Enclave (AWD, 7-passenger, tow package). It has the DI engine. Absolutely love it except the 19" wheels (tires are expensive and limited). We've just passed 50k on it and not one complaint.
The Buick is rated to tow less than the Traverse/Acadia cousins because of the different suspension, but share identical drivetrain.
Tow/Haul mode on the transmission does just like all other T/H equipped vehicles, and it does work well. You can also lock out gears as you wish when placed in 'manual' mode, only being able to lock out top gears (allowing 1-5, 1-4, 1-3 ect, and locking it in 1st if you wish).
I've towed with ours, but not heavy 2000-2500 lbs, and it did great. On the interstate running 70 it pulled the flats in 6th, hills were 5th, and steep hills 4%+ were in 4th. When empty it will pull most hills in 5th. Any receiver hitch slop his kinda loud inside the cabin. There are guys on the Traverse & Acadia forums pulling normal mid 20' trailers and happy with results.
With the 3rd row seats popped up the storage is very limited. With them down there is a ton of room.
Wife gets 20mpg on here 70hwy/30city driving. Get 23-24 on the highway. Really flogging it on speed brought it back to 21-22.
For a TT, the similar sized Tahoe would be the way to go. A popup, or short/light TT the Lambda would do the job. Remember it is more of a car based vehicle.
I will have had it 2 years the 9th of this month and have 29,000 miles on it...zero issues with DEF.....
Parents have a '14 and run the boxes from WalMart. Nearing 30k miles on it as well, 80% towing 16k+ weight.
Thanks LVJ58. Gonna top it off and head to coos bay, or
You shouldn't "top it off" with a different weight of oil than what's already in it. If you don't know what's in it, then change it.
And why not? It will mix right in.
Good 2-lane with a few passing lanes.
Watch your speed as you start the decent into Mt Carmel Junction (about 17mi north of Kanab).
With the exception of a couple large climbs/decents, the road is rolling hills and some curves that will make you drop the throttle but nothing major.
That will be the easiest route for you to take, and there is no reason to worry.
Good 2 lane road with a major slide area recently repaired.
What slide area was there here? Are you thinking about the Big Cut south of Page?