That is how I'd do it; separate plug/cord.
That is what I do with my stick on tank heaters. Just use a splitter for the heater pads and hose tape, and ran a 15A cord to the pedestal.
For you, 50 to 30 on the main, then 30 or 15/20 dedicated for the 2nd A/C unit.
Just watch for white smoke at idle, or immediately after a warm start. Caused by an injector dribbling fuel into a cylinder (not seating properly). A leaking injector can also burn the piston, so if you suspect leaking, pull them all and have them tested.
Extended cranking time can be caused by low batteries, but also because the injector return rate is too high and it cannot generate enough rail pressure to fire an injector. The computer requires more than 5k psi before it will start pulsing injectors. If fuel is being bled off by the injector, it will take longer cranking time to generate pressure, if it is achieved at all.
If you don't have white smoke, long cranking times, or shaking/loping at idle, don't worry about it.
I brought our trailer home with a '97 GMC 1/2-ton without a WD hitch, and the front end floated bad. Picked up an Equlizier 4-Way and set it up myself. It was a rock solid combination (except for the lack of power).
When we got the Dodge (sig), I ran it without the WD for a little bit. It handled just as good as the smaller truck with the WD in terms of stability during turns, wind, semi pushing while passing...
I installed the WD with the Dodge. I 'think' it helps a little bit with stability. Why wouldn't it? I'm not transferring much weight to the front axle at all, just getting tension on the bars. It does help with bouncing though. My truck is nearing shock replacement depending on how you look at it, but with the WD the bouncing caused by bridge transfers and rough roads is greatly reduced.
Is it needed? No, but it might help out in a scenario.
Skyline Drive for example (West of Price, East of Spanish Fork) may not be passable yet; drifts and mud.
The northern part of the Swell (Castle Dale, The Wedge Overlook, and surrounding area) would be accessible with the exception of a recent heavy storm. Many run the Swell in the middle of winter, and actually did a group run down Buckhorn Draw Rd about a month ago.
I haven't explored the Duchesne area so I cannot comment.
I have a 2010 Forest River Shockwave toy hauler (bumper pull) and have been satisfied with it. We purchased brand new off the lot.
I lived in it for 26 months straight during weekdays for work away from home, plus a few other couple month long work trips, plus our family vacations.
In that time we've broken one plastic drawer slider support that needed to be replaced, replaced the weatherstrip along the ramp, and had one brad nail for the interior molding back out.
FR could have spent a little more time aligning the cabinet doors, but the trailer has served us well.
91 would be less stress. It is shorter, and will have a higher average speed. The other is twisty. From I-70 I would tow on 91, and leave 24 for a cruise without the trailer.
When I was working at Climax and staying in Leadville, I would always drive my truck on 91 when traveling to/from Utah,but rode the motorcycle on 24.
I have Innovative Creations stainless steel on my Dodge. They were already in it when I purchased.
4yrs and 60k miles more in the truck and they still look great.
I had a set of stainless on my last truck as well for over 150k and about 11 years. They were looking good when I sold it. I think they were Westin bars but not sure.
Not a TC, but I packed 6k worth of gravel in the back of an '01 Dodge (4wd quad cab dually with factory springs and rear sway bar). Scaled 14.5k with 2 people in it. Was under tire rating.
That was only once, but the rear would need help with that (near that) amount of weight if I were to make a habit of that.
You are basing your truck purchase on the ease of greasing the front driveshaft?
I marked mine with a short line of paint. I jack up one front tire and roll the shaft until I see my mark. I lube at every oil change.
The newer Rams are running a disconnecting front axle, just like they did on the 2nd Gen 94-02, so that the front shaft is not spinning while in 2wd. They are still requiring the grease needle as far as I know.
Our girls (5 and 3) just shower with us. Our shower stall is large enough for an adult and child to get clean (2 adults could stand in there but not be very productive).
Is she old enough, and do you have the room to accomplish this? Do you have the water capacity to do the bath tub idea?
We have a 6g water heater, but that is more than adequate for one adult and child to clean, let the heater come back up to temp, then let the other pair get clean.
I used the Easy-Heat heat tape on my fresh water hose for 2yrs. I bought it a little long. I started the tape about a foot from the trailer inlet (the thermostat end), went up to the inlet on the trailer, then back to the spigot, wrapping the valve and spigot. I attached it with electrical tape about every foot. I then covered the hose with 1 size too large pipe insulation (to fit the heat tape and not leave a gap at the slit). Some more wraps on the foam pipe insulation to keep it from coming undone.
I then wrapped the spigot with fiberglass insulation, then 2 heavy duty trash bags.
I survived 2 winters that experienced -20*F regularly. It was cheap and effective!
Drive to The Wedge Overlook. This is located near Castle Dale, Utah. It is accessed by a good dirt road; high clearance 4wd not required.
The Wedge Overlook
From there, you could head North back to the main road, then continue East to the Buckhorn Draw Rd. Turn South on the Buckhorn Draw. Along this road, there are a few Petroglyph Walls (with parking spots), one Dinosaur Footprint (not marked, but can be found on Google Earth, I can get you coordinates if needed), a shallow cave that you can camp in, and plenty of short spurs that you can drive/hike down.
Camping is plentiful at the Wedge or along Buckhorn Draw. If the weather is bad, get off the cliff at the Wedge and get down in the canyon along Buckhorn Draw. There is more camping available at the river as you continue South.
Continue your journey toward I-70, but just cross underneath and continue South along the dirt on Temple Mtn Rd. This will take you all the way to the entrance of Goblin Valley State Park.
Go by highway to Hanksville, and fill supplies.
Head West out of Hanksville for 18 miles to the Cathedral Rd turnoff (to the North). Drive this dirt road all the way toward Lyman.
Or take Hwy-24 from Hanksville to Torrey, then Hwy-12 and drive to Escalante. Now you drive Hole In The Rock Road (down and back). You can also go South out of Escaelante toward Smokey Mountain (on BLM 330 "Smokey Mountain Rd") and drive to Alstrom Point overlooking Lake Powell. You would return to pavement at Big Water, Utah. From here, head South to Page, Az, then to Kayenta, then North to Monument Valley, drive the Moki Dugway (North of Mexican Hat), then back toward Hanksville or to Moab.
After Escalante, continue West to Bryce Canyon. From there yo can go South out of Cannonville (near Kodachrome Basin) and continue South along the Cottonwood Canyon Rd and return to pavement near Paria approximately 30mi NW of Page, Az. A quick drive West on the highway to Houserock Valley Rd and continue by dirt to Hwy-89A, then go West to Jacob Lake, then South to the North Rim of The Grand Canyon.
Or South out of Hanksville to Monument Valley, then turn around and go toward Moab.
All of the above roads I've mentioned are 'maintained' dirt roads. You may encounter a severe set of washboards but you can run near highway speeds in sections. Washouts are common after a good rainstorm but are usually repaired quickly. Most can be traveled by a car (wouldn't do it in my car), but there are sections of soft sand on all roads, and a shallow water crossing (Cottonwood Canyon Rd). I would travel all with a 4wd vehicle, and probably never engage the front axle.
DO NOT travel the Smokey Mountain Rd and Cotton Canyon Rd areas after a recent rain storm. These areas are clay and nearly impassable after a storm.
The possibilities are endless for the Southern Utah offroad adventures! Spend a day with Google Earth following roads and looking at pictures, and get an idea of where you want to go.
I have an EBay 22" bar (double row) on my truck. Paid ~$110 for it and it drowns my headlights. Money well spent in my opinion. They are cheaper now than when I got it. It has been on my truck for about 1.5yrs and I have a tiny bit of fogging when I pressure wash the truck (I'm not careful about the light either). For what it is, it has held up very well.
This is as near as I can find to what I have on my truck.
EBay Light Bar
A buddy of mine has a little slim single row Rigid. The light output on it is close to what my bar does, and his is shorter and narrower. The Rigid costs more, and it is a smaller bar, but the quality is definitely there.
We also did some Rigid Dually pods on a 4runner along with an Ebay bar. The Rigid pods outrun the little bar that he got.
Jump power on the solenoid on the passenger inner fender. This will prove that the batteries and starter are good, and that the 'start' circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid is bad.
You could have an issue with the ignition tumbler itself or the wiring to the solenoid.
I recall there being a passive theft device somewhere under the dash that interrupts the start circuit. It happened on a '95 psd we had. It failed, don't know how it worked. We would place the key in the 'on' position then jump the solenoid under the hood to get home. I remember it being a black box a little larger than a billfold. It was located near the steering column.
My 21' trailer A/C is not ducted. I have a little issue with the front bed (half blocked by the bathroom) getting adequate airflow, but otherwise does fine. It just takes a little longer to bring the front of my trailer down in temperature.
I don't remember there being an issue with my tc and non_ducted air.
Just stick with normal scheduled maintenance. Don't go spending a ton of money fixing something that isn't broke.
I got 244k miles out of a 1/2 ton GM when I sold it. Had original u joints and cv shafts. I've got 255k on a ford escape and it has the original cv shafts front and rear, but did require 1 u joint and a carrier bearing a few years ago.
Usually you will get a warning before something fails such as abnormal noise or a slipping transmission, but there can just be a sudden catastrophic failure.
I carry the old serpentine belt and maybe a tensioner with a noisy bearing just in case, but don't pack around spare parts, and surely don't replace something when the current something is working correctly.