Place one or two 2x4 blocks under the ramp ground pads to raise the ramp up slightly; bike should have no issue climbing a small 'curb' to get onto the ramp.
Stand up off of the bike as you breakover to the trailer floor (to take load off of the suspension.
Lift the nose of the trailer some to reduce the breakover angle, or place truck rear tires on blocks/ramps to lift front of trailer.
All I'm going to add to this is to use a fork brace instead of compressing the forks when tied down. Fast stops, and the forward/rearward bouncing on the trailer could cause the bike to lean 'forward' and the handlebar could contact the trailer as the front suspension compresses more (and also causes slack on the opposite strap).
I carry my XR400 on a hitch carrier on my truck (tonneau cover), and my last truck had a camper shell and I packed a porky KLX650 on it.
What triggers the exhaust brake to engage? Throttle Position switch (release throttle and it triggers a small limit switch on the pedal to complete the circuit)? I'd be looking in to whatever triggers the brake to engage.
What Allison should have told you is that the World Controller (assuming you have one) does have the ability to accept an input when the EB is active to select a lower gear automatically, and the transmission will auto-downshift to keep the engine revved and the brake supplying a higher amount of braking horsepower. Your truck may or may not have this feature.
On a International 4400 (DT570/Allison combo), when the EB was on and throttle released, the transmission controller selected 2nd gear (shown in the display), and as speed slowed the transmission downshifted to keep the engine revved to apply more braking force.
Actually looks like it is slightly behind the axle as the camper took 20 lb from front axle.
Now when your short and light camper do real trick to rear axle weight, think what mine does.
Your truck is hurting my brain. 2nd Gen Dodge bed. What is going on?
Major fueling points that I can remember, so I will add them.
Carlin, NV has a Chevron and a Flying J/Pilot. The truck stop is usually busy and usually has a line on the semi fueling lanes. The chevron has diesel available on the outer pumps and are accessible to larger rigs if not being blocked by a minivan.
An easy access fueling location in Elko is the East exit, on the north side (Sinclair? Chevron?) that has a large pad that could be easily navigated. The down side to fueling here is the uphill on-ramp. I would skip stopping in Elko altogether.
Wells, Nv is littered with fuel stations. Both major carriers on the south side of the interstate are easily navigated to high volume or light duty pumps.
North out of Wells to ID I cannot help with.
Maybe, maybe not.
My 21' with an Equalizer 4-way on a 1/2-ton was solid. I gave the hitch setup to my FIL for his rig when I got my larger truck. I'm thinking about getting another one, but it isn't a high priority on my list. I do feel some push from larger vehicles passing by sometimes, and that is with running max pressure in the truck (80) and trailer (50).
I have a 2010 Forest River Shockwave MX-T21FS (MX Series, Toy hauler, 21 feet, fuel station). The sticker claims a UVW of 49XXlbs, but it really weighs nearly 6k before water/bikes/food. I picked mine up as the last one on the lot in the summer/fall of 2010 and paid $18-19k.
Here is a link to the current model.
I see that it got heaver in the last 6 years. Gained more water capacity (mine is 53/40/40), front bed went from a full to a queen, toilet is spun around, and other little differences.
The floor plan is very similar to the link that you posted. Front bed (but mine is an east-west type so my head is on the left side of the trailer and my feet at the right side, and has only 1 closet. Kitchen is on the same side as in your link, bathroom is similar. I did see that the newer years from mine have moved the bathroom sink into the bathroom, where mine is outside the shower/toilet area and available to the whole trailer. My trailer has full length cabinets along both walls all the way to the ramp, so no rear drop down bunks. I do have a couch on each side that folds flat for another adult on each side, and the table(s) have removable post that set in to the floor for the couches.
I haul an assortment of dirt bikes, and my cruiser is a VTX1800T (barely over 8' length total, with factory saddle bags). I could fit a pair of them if it was necessary, but it would be a tight fit. For me, it would require one of them to be loaded backward and tied down with the front tire against the ramp, the 2nd one to be loaded facing forward and sitting in mid trailer, and the rears would need to be kicked sideways some to clear each other. A 23-24' would help with this a bunch; the kitchen would no longer be in the way, and both bikes could be faced rearward against the ramp and be parallel with each other. This would require a winch to drag them in backward.
I do not have a dove/beaver on my trailer, and have to be on a very unlevel spot or have the hind-end in the air to make the VTX grab at the breakover point; don't get me wrong, I've had that happen in a spot before.
Electric element may be burned out from being powered without water in the tank.
Run on propane...
Turn on switch. Light will illuminate for a few seconds and then the water heater should light and the switch light will go out. The burner will remain lit until the water is hot (~10-15 minutes depending on your water heater size. I've never timed mine, I'm just grasping a time out of the air).
You could walk outside and listen for the burner and feel heat from the water heater door on the outside.
On my '97 K1500, my last set was BFG AT/KO D-range. I got over 60k miles out of them (and were close to being on the bars) when I sold the truck (with 244k on the truck without engine/trans rebuild). I ran them at 65psi all the time regardless of what I was doing.
With those fluid changes, the bands should be getting adjusted as well. One is accessible externally, the other requires removal of the transmission pan (while the transmission filter is being replaced). When the front band runs out of threads during adjustment, it is worn out and needs to be replaced soon.
A common problem is a shuttle shift between 1-2 during light throttle applications. The fix is to replace the pressure transducer, and while at it go ahead and replace the 'whateveritscalled' solenoid. There is an upgrade by using using the GM solenoid in place of the factory spec unit.
A shift kit (TransGo or other manufacturer) will help with longevity of the transmission. They require valve body removal for installation. Quicker TC lockups, increased line pressure for better clutch application, without break-neck shifts. I have the TransGo kit in mine (without drilling the faster TC lockup holes) to help me with a 2-3 shuttle I had, which it resolved.
Torque Converter failure with the sprag when it tries to 'drive through' the brakes while stopping and high idle while in gear. The TC clutch doesn't fully release, kind of like pushing the clutch pedal about half way in, the engine is loaded so the computer increases fuel to maintain a set idle speed, so the truck 'power-brakes' when you aren't touching the throttle.
Consistent excessive heat could be a plugged/stuck thermostat in the transmission cooler. Pull and clean, and many people in warmer climates flip the thermostat around and install so that the fluid is always flowing through the fins instead of bypassing.
The ball check valve for the fluid cooler can become plugged and cause high temperatures as well. Or it can get stuck open and allow drain-back to the transmission and will cause a truck that wont move for a few seconds until it refills the cooling system and builds pressure.
Other 'signs' of failing don't normally exist. Not shifting into 4th, no TC lockup, getting stuck in 2nd, not upshifting, will usually suddenly happen without notice.
Remember that fluid is not circulated in Park. If you are nursing a hot transmission, idle the truck in Neutral so that fluid is circulated through the cooling system. Idling it Park for extended periods will generate heat in the trans.
After working at the Climax Mine during restart and staying in Leadville...
If you are at all interested in Mining, visit the mining museum. The drive between Leadville and MInturn on Hwy-24 will award you with a lot of canyon views and abandoned buildings on the hillside. If you are a mining nerd, go East on 5th Street out of Leadville a little ways for more mining buildings and equipment. And on the south end of town take Monroe to #2 (paved for awhile for even more 'stuff'.
Quincy's does have good food, and the Golden Burro had to-go biscuits and gravy we got every once in a while and was awesome.
Base out of Leadville or Buena Vista. For a day drive, take Independence to Aspen, go north to Glenwood Springs, I70 to Minturn, then the 24 back to Leadville.
Hwy91 between Leadville and Copper Mtn has a long steep climb (just my truck would have a runaway going downhill northbound), but is the road to tow vs the 24. Be aware that this route takes you to ~11400' at the Climax Mine.
Frisco has some good places to eat (better than anything in Leadville), and Dillon has some expensive places to eat.
And the altitude sickness is a real deal. I went from under 5000' elevation to Leadville's 10200', and worked at 11400' and above. I faired well considering I'm early 30's and 'healthy'. I watched delivery drivers or vendors arrive on site and drop within a couple hours. I cannot remember the 'rule of thumb' for becoming acclimated, but if you are worried at all about it, spend a day or two in Frisco or SIlverthorne area.
I agree with 93Cobra2271. Verify trailer tires, brakes, and bearings. Check roof vents for brittle plastic that could be damages by 70mph winds.
I recommend a newer half-ton rated for the weight (they do exist), or any older 3/4+ of just about any flavor rated for the weight.
In my area, a truck to move that (and hopefully be serviceable and dependable enough to make the journey) would be $4000-5000 at a minimum (but maybe I have high standards).
Awesome thanks a lot for the info, I still think im going to go one size bigger in my tires to knock off a little rpm.
Don't. The L31 350ci makes peak torque at 2800rpm, so you don't want to spin it any slower than you already are. Also, by going taller on the final drive, you are going to have a harder time keeping the torque converter locked while under way (causing more transmission heat).
Leave it the way you have it. If anything, go to a 245 tire the next time around.
I've been there, I had a '97 K1500 with a 6k trailer. You've got a good match now, you don't want to have that engine spinning any slower.
My truck sits for 3+ months at a time frequently. Fuel tank is full and battery tender hooked to truck. Just connect the tender to one battery or the other. The crossover cable will keep both batteries charged.
Do not start it and let it idle frequently. It will never reach operating temperature. Not saying you can't start it to move it or unhitch or whatever, but don't make a habit of idling for 15-30 minutes weekly/monthly/whatever then shutting it down in an effort to 'maintain' the truck.
Mine has been sitting since Thanksgiving. I will use it in 2 weeks to go pick up a trailer 300mi away and bring back to the house. I will just get it out from under the shed, check the tire pressure, load my junk and leave. When I return I will fill with fuel and pull back in to shed, connect tender and walk away.
When I was little I rode in the old camp trailer we had a few miles down to the main highway before I got in the truck. I wouldn't let my kids do it in our bumper pull today.
When I was in my teens I rode in the living quarters of a gooseneck horse trailer for about 400mi. It wasn't bad at all. The aluminum structure, no awning, made for a decently quiet and comfortable ride. I would let my kids ride in my parents current gooseneck horse trailer.