Loose connection on the circuit. The fridge draws power and pulls down the voltage, so the propane side tries to light. Since the fridge is no longer on the 120V power, the voltage on the circuit creeps back up. The fridge sees that AC power is available and tries to switch over, and the cycle continues.
Turn off the 'Auto' on the fridge to force it to gas operation. Shut off the circuit breaker for the outlets with the issue, then check all connection points and prove that they are tight (on the CB, and on the back of the outlets).
If you understand the relationship between boost and EGT a set of gauges can be a helpful diagnostic tool.
Similar on an 01 Cummins. Had a MAP sensor get lazy and send incorrect readings. Caused exhaust temps to go into the unsafe range. Would have never known there was an issue without the pyrometer. The mechanical boost showed 'normal' pressure, but a failed electronic part can cause meltdown as well.
Being a 6.0L, I'd have a way to monitor ect and eot, and watch the difference between the two.
The last time I did Denver to SLC via Wyoming, the head wind was killer, and that was in an empty truck. I vowed to never again drive West on I-80.
Grand Junction to Green River is typical Interstate style, some climbing along the way, but nothing like you will have already dealt with all the way to Vail.
Green River to Price is a race track. There are twice as many people out in the middle of the desert for no reason, and they are driving ahellofa lot faster than they should be, and there is minimal patrol. With that said, there is one good climb and the rest is flat/minor grades.
From Price to Spanish Fork, you have a steep and windy climb out of Price, but there is a passing lane for the majority of it, and on the downhill side, there are plenty of passing lanes along the way.
If the wind doesn't blow, I-80 is to route to take.
We were at Disney over New Years weekend. I wanted to go to CSC and hopefully take one for a spin. I called them while we were in route to see when they were going to close for the weekend, and unfortunately was going to miss them by a couple hours because they were closing shop early. The guy I spoke to offered to stay late, but I told him to hit the road and enjoy his time off in case we had issues, and I knew my wife and kids would be upset with the first stop being a bike shop.
I had a '97 GMC K1500 (350/4L60E/3.73) that had a 6600lb GVWR. The GCWR was 12k and the max trailer weight was 6500lbs. I do not remember what the 4.10 axle gained you for weight, and what the 3.42 made you lose.
For a trailer at 3k, you will be just fine. Depending on grade and wind resistance, you will most likely need to still lock out 4th. With the 3.42 gears, you will still be under the peak torque output in 3rd at speed.
If you desire to monitor the transmission temperature, a probe can easily be added to the pressure test port located on the driver's side of the transmission, just above where the shift linkage ties to the case.
Trucks of that era did not come with transmission coolers at all.
The transmission cooler is due to the fact that there is no torque converter lockup, so the power is transmitted through the transmission fluid, which makes it hot.
They did come with transmission coolers. They were oil/water units built in to the radiator. Some were optioned with a second aux oil/air cooler that was located on the passenger side of the grille area. Mine (without the tow package) included the aux transmission cooler.
Also, these did have a locking torque convertor. They locked in 3rd and 4th (OD), but they did not have a Tow/Haul mode to change the shift and lockup strategy.
With shore/gen power and you starting the truck engine, the isolator will close and tie the chassis (truck) battery to the rest of the system. The voltage regulator for the alternator will most likely keep the alternator from charging and the converter will continue to charge, but it is possible that the engine alternator takes the full load and the converter will stop charging.
In the panel building world, with 2 power supplies that are paralleled and are not designed to be paralleled, one will take the full load while the other loafs along doing next to nothing. The small difference in 'desired' charging voltage will cause the lower voltage unit (even though both are theoretically the same voltage) to simply lower and stop the output.
I've had my truck running and connected to my trailer while still on shore power. Same thing as you've drawn. It is similar to jump starting a vehicle (battery charger + alternator, or alternator + alternator).
would you buy one?
I've been watching these for about a year and have been reading some of their blogs. One of them just came up for sale in my area on the local classifieds, and I've been tempted to go for a test ride (it has about 300mi on it). I'm half joking half serious that the guy is not happy with it or it is just under powered.
The RX3 appeals for a light, 'adventure' ready bike. It is a cheap purchase, and they are stupid easy to maintain. Side and top cases, and crash bars included. The ease of valve adjustments on the RX3 appeal to me (tappets, just like on my XR400), making at-home maintenance even easier (the KLR is shim over bucket).
Honestly, I'd go get a used KLR650. The aftermarket for the KLR is HUGE, they've had very minor engine changes since the early 90's, they make much more power, have a higher payload, more suspension travel, and have a higher speed.
I owned a '94 KLX650R that I made street legal. Swapped it out for a '96 XR400R (435, ported head, cam, carb, pipe, street legal). My street ride is a VTX1800T. I've logged over 200mi by dirt on day trips, and average over 8k per year on the VTX. Me going to a wheezy 250 would bore me to death.
I know it is a different type of riding, but once you load this thing up with cases full of stuff, 2-lane riding is going to work it hard.
It boils down to what type of riding are you going to do with the bike? If you don't plan on getting into anything more than a gravel road not too far from the house, the RX3 could do it for you. A KLR will take you through rougher terrain, have more comfort on the road, and would be better suited for longer trips.
I lose my mind around the new Africa Twin. It would fit me perfectly (or a KTM 690/950, or BMW 800/1200 GS). I'm going used for the next bike, so I need a little seat time on each to make a decision.
1. Junction box/cover plate and the 30A rv receptacle (TT-30R?)
Yes. That is the correct female plug, assuming that your trailer has the equal male plug on the power cable.
2. 10 gauge electric wire
NEC states 10ga for a 30A circuit in this application. 10/2 romex for the run between the circuit breaker panel and the location of your trailer recept.
8ga could be substituted for the 10 on a longer run; this depends on the location of the main or sub panel that you are getting the power from.
3. 30A breaker? What kind/type?
30A single-pole breaker that is equivalent to the rest of the breakers being used in the panel. You may or may not be able to get a breaker type off of the face, and will need to pull the dead-front off to see what type of breaker you will need for your distribution panel. You may (should) find a sticker on the panel that lists the acceptable breaker manufacturer and model.
4. and a 100ft 30A rv extension cable?
Can I use the cheaper house electric cable rated for 30A and just the adpater?
Technically you shouldn't, but you can.
Romex is not rated to be outside, and must be protected. The proper 30A extension cable from Wal-Mart, or if you get a good deal on some 10ga or larger S.O. or other armored cable, you can make your own.
The last time I checked (a little over a year ago), it was cheaper to buy the molded cable from Wal-Mart than what I could by the cable and equivalent plugs for!
On an empty truck, a heaver-capacity spring would cause a harder/harsher ride. Since this is a motorhome, and is always 'loaded', the difference is reduced.
I think that you will end up reducing the air pressure in the bags so that you end up with very similar ride characteristics. Currently, a lot of the weight is carried by the bags. The newer heavier springs will take more load, reducing the weight that is carried by the bags.
Wait wait wait. This isn't going to work. Is it? You still cannot get more that 2000W from the pair.
1000 by itself is 1000
2000 by itself is 2000
2000 + 1000 is still 2000.
The smaller gen will go into overload, while the 2000 will be at half load.
I haven't done this before, but this is how running parallel power supplies works. A 10A and a 20A parallel will only give you 20A, not 30.
I would assume that the truck has a small plug underneath the dash (in the vicinity of the OBD-II plug and/or above the accelerator pedal area). Almost all vehicles manufactured now that would be capable of towing a trailer that would require electric brakes, do have a quick connect plug for an electric brake controller.
Brand new? Look under back seat, in the glove box(es), in other storage cubby holes for the pigtail. If used, maybe the previous owner moved it or tossed it.
For the two aux tanks that I've made, I used this valve;
Just plug the normally open port with some gasket maker to keep dirt/foreign out. Flip on a dash switch and the unit is energized and allows for fuel flow. These were tied parallel with a fuel pump so that both energized and pushed fuel in to the main tank at a higher rate. I also ran a cheap inline fuel filter from the aux tank, and it does catch garbage from inside the tanks over time.
For my local CAT Scale:
1. Pull on to the scale in the correct direction (signs posted). Stop with your front axle on the first pad, and your rear axle on the middle pad. You will have nothing on the third pad unless you are pulling a trailer.
2. If you cannot reach, get out and then push the call button. It will be positioned so that it can be reached by the cab of a semi.
3. The attendant will ask for your truck number. Just say "private", or give them a number, it doesn't matter. This is just to identify the semi being weighed. Ever notice the numbers on the hood of semis?
4. The attendant will tell you that you are good, and you can pull off and go park. Walk inside to the counter and get your weight slip for your number/private, and pay.
Weights will be displayed by axle (Steer, Drive, Trailer).
You may benefit at taking a quick walk by the scale to see the 3 pads so that you know when to stop, but the front of your rig will be near the exit end of the scale.
Do you have multiple plugs at the power pedestal? Does it have a 50A plug available? If so, try plugging your trailer in to the 50A instead of the 30A. Maybe, just maybe, it will give you a couple more volts, but I doubt that it will allow you use of the A/C AND Micro at the same time.
Would it be acceptable to add a window-mount air conditioner ($100-200) and just plug it in to the 15/20A plug on the pedestal? You get a 2nd A/C, and wont be pulling extra power through your dedicated 30A for the trailer.
I had a neighbor with a similar sized trailer with 1 ducted A/C, and he had a hard time keeping his trailer cool. My 21' on the other hand, I would wait till I got home after work to flip on the A/C vs leaving it running all day, and would be comfortable within an hour. I did have all of my windows stuffed with 1" foam insulation and pillows in the roof vents.
Boogie 4Wheel and bvereshagen, thank you both for you replies. Boogie 4whl, I see you have an older Dodge w/Cummins, do you think your mileage would be better with the newer models?
I think newer diesel mileage would be similar. When the DPF's first came in to play ('07.5 6.7L Dodge, 6.4L Ford, '07 new body style GM), the fuel economy really took at hit because of the added fueling required to burn the particulate filters clean. With the addition of DEF, economy numbers have come back up a lot, and the taller overdrives have made them just as, if not more efficient than the older diesels, and they have more gears and more power.
My parents have a '14 Cummins (4wd, dually, 68RFE, 3.73) pulling a horse trailer, and GCW of around 25k. 65-70mph their economy is sub-11, but I do not know the exact numbers. I've used that truck to pull a 24' goose flat bed (once loaded with 45hp tractor, once empty) across country, running 75+, and while it drank DEF, it was in the low teens. I would expect that truck to get comparable economy numbers as my pre-emissions truck with my trailer, and it has more power, more gears, and more comfort. There is also more to fail.
I know what the expense would be for certain parts on my truck if they fail (no major issues so far), and a newer one would only be more expensive; I would love to own a new(er) truck until something went wrong. The same applies in the other direction, a 2nd Gen Cummins is even more simple than my 3rd Gen, and the 2nd Gen is cheaper on parts (just compare the cost of an injector for example). This is why I fall back on saying if I were to go get a new truck, I'd most likely go with a big block gas. I would have to shift a little more, and burn a little more fuel, but it would get the job done just fine. I have no intentions of getting a larger trailer at this point in my life.
Dodge has a vacuum operated from axle on that era trucks. Metal and rubber tubing is run along the inside of the passenger frame rail, and the actuator diaphragm for the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) is on the backside of the front differential. Vacuum is controlled by the transfer case position, and there is a rubber plug on the (going off memory here, driver's side, upper part of the transfer case) that needs to be connected, and it can be disconnected and rotated and installed incorrectly.
Verify that the front axle is engaging. Jack up one side of the front axle just enough to get a front tire off the ground. Place truck in 4wd and start engine (to generate vacuum), and try to spin the front tire by hand. If you can spin it, then the CAD is not working, or there is an issue with the transfer case (try to spin the front driveshaft as well).
I want to say that there was 2 options for a front locker. ARB makes a selectable for the AAM 9.25, and I want to say somebody had an electric selectable as well. This was a few years back, so availability may have changed now.
There is also the Posi-Lock, a cable actuator that replaces the vacuum unit on the front axle. This is used to eliminate the vacuum system and is replaced with a push/pull knob that would be located under the dash, on the floor, ect. I was going to buy one of these for my '97 GMC to replace the thermal actuator when it died, but it never died...