1. Junction box/cover plate and the 30A rv receptacle (TT-30R?)
Yes. That is the correct female plug, assuming that your trailer has the equal male plug on the power cable.
2. 10 gauge electric wire
NEC states 10ga for a 30A circuit in this application. 10/2 romex for the run between the circuit breaker panel and the location of your trailer recept.
8ga could be substituted for the 10 on a longer run; this depends on the location of the main or sub panel that you are getting the power from.
3. 30A breaker? What kind/type?
30A single-pole breaker that is equivalent to the rest of the breakers being used in the panel. You may or may not be able to get a breaker type off of the face, and will need to pull the dead-front off to see what type of breaker you will need for your distribution panel. You may (should) find a sticker on the panel that lists the acceptable breaker manufacturer and model.
4. and a 100ft 30A rv extension cable?
Can I use the cheaper house electric cable rated for 30A and just the adpater?
Technically you shouldn't, but you can.
Romex is not rated to be outside, and must be protected. The proper 30A extension cable from Wal-Mart, or if you get a good deal on some 10ga or larger S.O. or other armored cable, you can make your own.
The last time I checked (a little over a year ago), it was cheaper to buy the molded cable from Wal-Mart than what I could by the cable and equivalent plugs for!
On an empty truck, a heaver-capacity spring would cause a harder/harsher ride. Since this is a motorhome, and is always 'loaded', the difference is reduced.
I think that you will end up reducing the air pressure in the bags so that you end up with very similar ride characteristics. Currently, a lot of the weight is carried by the bags. The newer heavier springs will take more load, reducing the weight that is carried by the bags.
Wait wait wait. This isn't going to work. Is it? You still cannot get more that 2000W from the pair.
1000 by itself is 1000
2000 by itself is 2000
2000 + 1000 is still 2000.
The smaller gen will go into overload, while the 2000 will be at half load.
I haven't done this before, but this is how running parallel power supplies works. A 10A and a 20A parallel will only give you 20A, not 30.
I would assume that the truck has a small plug underneath the dash (in the vicinity of the OBD-II plug and/or above the accelerator pedal area). Almost all vehicles manufactured now that would be capable of towing a trailer that would require electric brakes, do have a quick connect plug for an electric brake controller.
Brand new? Look under back seat, in the glove box(es), in other storage cubby holes for the pigtail. If used, maybe the previous owner moved it or tossed it.
For the two aux tanks that I've made, I used this valve;
Just plug the normally open port with some gasket maker to keep dirt/foreign out. Flip on a dash switch and the unit is energized and allows for fuel flow. These were tied parallel with a fuel pump so that both energized and pushed fuel in to the main tank at a higher rate. I also ran a cheap inline fuel filter from the aux tank, and it does catch garbage from inside the tanks over time.
For my local CAT Scale:
1. Pull on to the scale in the correct direction (signs posted). Stop with your front axle on the first pad, and your rear axle on the middle pad. You will have nothing on the third pad unless you are pulling a trailer.
2. If you cannot reach, get out and then push the call button. It will be positioned so that it can be reached by the cab of a semi.
3. The attendant will ask for your truck number. Just say "private", or give them a number, it doesn't matter. This is just to identify the semi being weighed. Ever notice the numbers on the hood of semis?
4. The attendant will tell you that you are good, and you can pull off and go park. Walk inside to the counter and get your weight slip for your number/private, and pay.
Weights will be displayed by axle (Steer, Drive, Trailer).
You may benefit at taking a quick walk by the scale to see the 3 pads so that you know when to stop, but the front of your rig will be near the exit end of the scale.
Do you have multiple plugs at the power pedestal? Does it have a 50A plug available? If so, try plugging your trailer in to the 50A instead of the 30A. Maybe, just maybe, it will give you a couple more volts, but I doubt that it will allow you use of the A/C AND Micro at the same time.
Would it be acceptable to add a window-mount air conditioner ($100-200) and just plug it in to the 15/20A plug on the pedestal? You get a 2nd A/C, and wont be pulling extra power through your dedicated 30A for the trailer.
I had a neighbor with a similar sized trailer with 1 ducted A/C, and he had a hard time keeping his trailer cool. My 21' on the other hand, I would wait till I got home after work to flip on the A/C vs leaving it running all day, and would be comfortable within an hour. I did have all of my windows stuffed with 1" foam insulation and pillows in the roof vents.
Boogie 4Wheel and bvereshagen, thank you both for you replies. Boogie 4whl, I see you have an older Dodge w/Cummins, do you think your mileage would be better with the newer models?
I think newer diesel mileage would be similar. When the DPF's first came in to play ('07.5 6.7L Dodge, 6.4L Ford, '07 new body style GM), the fuel economy really took at hit because of the added fueling required to burn the particulate filters clean. With the addition of DEF, economy numbers have come back up a lot, and the taller overdrives have made them just as, if not more efficient than the older diesels, and they have more gears and more power.
My parents have a '14 Cummins (4wd, dually, 68RFE, 3.73) pulling a horse trailer, and GCW of around 25k. 65-70mph their economy is sub-11, but I do not know the exact numbers. I've used that truck to pull a 24' goose flat bed (once loaded with 45hp tractor, once empty) across country, running 75+, and while it drank DEF, it was in the low teens. I would expect that truck to get comparable economy numbers as my pre-emissions truck with my trailer, and it has more power, more gears, and more comfort. There is also more to fail.
I know what the expense would be for certain parts on my truck if they fail (no major issues so far), and a newer one would only be more expensive; I would love to own a new(er) truck until something went wrong. The same applies in the other direction, a 2nd Gen Cummins is even more simple than my 3rd Gen, and the 2nd Gen is cheaper on parts (just compare the cost of an injector for example). This is why I fall back on saying if I were to go get a new truck, I'd most likely go with a big block gas. I would have to shift a little more, and burn a little more fuel, but it would get the job done just fine. I have no intentions of getting a larger trailer at this point in my life.
Dodge has a vacuum operated from axle on that era trucks. Metal and rubber tubing is run along the inside of the passenger frame rail, and the actuator diaphragm for the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) is on the backside of the front differential. Vacuum is controlled by the transfer case position, and there is a rubber plug on the (going off memory here, driver's side, upper part of the transfer case) that needs to be connected, and it can be disconnected and rotated and installed incorrectly.
Verify that the front axle is engaging. Jack up one side of the front axle just enough to get a front tire off the ground. Place truck in 4wd and start engine (to generate vacuum), and try to spin the front tire by hand. If you can spin it, then the CAD is not working, or there is an issue with the transfer case (try to spin the front driveshaft as well).
I want to say that there was 2 options for a front locker. ARB makes a selectable for the AAM 9.25, and I want to say somebody had an electric selectable as well. This was a few years back, so availability may have changed now.
There is also the Posi-Lock, a cable actuator that replaces the vacuum unit on the front axle. This is used to eliminate the vacuum system and is replaced with a push/pull knob that would be located under the dash, on the floor, ect. I was going to buy one of these for my '97 GMC to replace the thermal actuator when it died, but it never died...
Last 2 years, we go down mid-October for a 3 day dirt bike trip. Still manage to sweat on the slower trails. We take my buddy's tent trailer (no A/C) and manage just fine. First year we ran a space heater in the trailer just to knock the chill, nothing last year.
Both times we stayed at the Slick Rock Campground on the north side of town. Nice campground but be prepared for bike/SxS/buggy traffic for all the people running the trails. Good campground with a lot of room though. Can be hard to get out of in the evenings when everybody is heading in to town for dinner (even hard for 2 street legal dirtbikes to get out of there). To be honest, we are going to start staying out in the desert for free from now on (less noise and crowds), but will be returning this October.
My signature combo... Trailer weighs approx 6000 before water and bike.
Having a front bed is great because you can stop overnight and not need to unload the bike to use the trailer. I do wish I had a 24' instead of the 21' simply because my street bike (VTX1800T, 8'2" overall) protrudes into the living area a little bit too much. On my trailer, it also eliminates the ability to use the built in table/couches located at the back of the trailer.
When I was using it as a base camp for an extended work arrangement away from home, I parked my bike in it as a garage and just use a small chair and folding table. I kept the bike tucked up tight against one wall. But this was only me being in the trailer, it would have been tight for 2 people.
Running 65mph avg, I get 12-13mpg, sometimes in the 14's. With my truck, I have plenty of capacity in both weight and power. I do not feel my 700+lb tongue weight. The trailer rarely pulls me out of 4th on the steep interstate hills. I do not plan routes or worry about what roads to take.
We've been from LA to Glacier, interstate and 2-lane. I've never had an issue with hills, temperatures, or feeling underpowered.
With the available vehicles, I would go either a newer gas or maybe an older diesel; pricing would be similar. With my current trailer and something terrible happening to my truck, I'd be looking really closely at a Ford V10, Ram 6.4L, or maybe even a 6.0L or 8.1 GM depending on what I found available to me. I'm really attracted to the Ram Ecodiesel, but would be close to ratings after we packed up for a family of 4. Ford Ecoboost is another possibility.
Go north toward Cortez. East of there is the Mesa Verde Nat'l Park.
I'd avoid Tuba City (I don't think there is anything to see along there personally), turn toward page on Hwy-98 just after Kayenta. With that suggestion, you would miss out on the view from the Big Cut (near Bitter Springs), and you also have the option to drive to Lees Ferry (camp there if you wish), then continue on up to Jacob Lake.
If you are looking to just drive the Honda, make a loop of Kanab - North Rim - Lees Ferry - Page - Kanab. You cover some of the same ground, but you are missing out on some of the scenery along the Vermilion Cliffs on 89A.
Busskipper - good call on Canyon de Chelly! Haven't been there since a middle school trip.
I looked for that thread awhile back; I couldn't find it. Please post up a link if you find it!!!
He went through a lot of work to add that 2nd drive axle on that 2nd Gen Dodge. I would have liked to see it in person.
Freak deal if you get snow in October. I'd be more worried about getting 2 flat tires at the same time.
We ride Moab in October, and sweat during the day. We ran a space heater in a tent trailer two years ago, nothing last year.
I-70 from Sevier to Kanab is a good road. It has its share of twists and rollers, but do not hesitate to take this route. You aren't going to miss anything if you don't continue to I-15 and then head south.
I grew up in Page. Personally, if you aren't going to go to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, just take the route through Page. There is no need to do the climb just so you can turn at Jacob Lake and head down the switchbacks with a big trailer; that would just be a waste of time and fuel. Besides, the 89A from House Rock Valley Rd to the river is shoulder-less and not the smoothest stretch of pavement. In a car/truck/bike sure, great alternate with some good views, but not running heavy.
I lose little (if any) fresh water. But, my fresh tank is beneath the floor (external) so there is a big elevation change between the fill and breather point and the tank on my trailer.
I have seen some trailers lose a little bit on sweeping right handers or big bumps while traveling. But that doesn't mean that the other were not carrying water.