My Forest River Shockwave has proved itself to be a good trailer.
The specific model is T21FS (it is the MX Series). I just looked at the current floorplan for this model, and it has changed slightly than my '10 model (the bathroom now includes the sink, mine does not). I do not know the overall length. I'd check, but my parents are bumming it off of me right now.
My trailer before toys/water is right at 6k, and the tongue weight is around 750lbs. Fresh is direct over the axles, black and gray are toward the tongue. F53, G40, B40 on water capacities. I think the DX model has larger tanks.
I do dislike the sideways front bed since it is hard to make, but it is what it is, and is functional. I replaced the cheap supplied pad with a real mattress and it works great.
Forest River may be a little lower on the quality scale, but I lived in the trailer during weekdays for 26mo straight for work, plus over 6mo combined on other job related travels. I cycled the doors and drawers a lot during that time, and nothing has broken. I was in it at -22*F and probably 108 at the hottest. The only items that have required replacing is the roof vent covers, the weatherstripping on the ramp, and the power cord end, which are all to be expected in 5yrs. Oh wait, I lied, the fuel station pump stopped working awhile back.
No outlet will work unless you have the generator running, are connected to 'shore' power, or you use a power inverter (12VDC to 120VAC).
For the phones, tablet, ect, I use car chargers, and have added a couple of 12V cig lighter style plugs in the bedroom and other areas. Power inverters are not efficient, especially using one to charge a cell phone, and a large one would be required to run a coffee maker (heating element).
I used one on my trailer.
I pulled the outside access panel on the fridge and replaced the single outlet with a dual one. Plugged the fridge in to the lower plug, and the 25-40w bulb in to the upper one. I used one of those simple $2 outlet to threaded bulb base things, so it held the bulb in place (off of anything).
I was stupid and started out with a 100w bulb, and melted a little control box on the back of the fridge, but just cosmetic damage.
I also covered most of the vents on the access panel with duct tape (on the inside) to help hold in heat. -25*F without issue.
I knew something was wrong when my empty 16' car hauler caused the truck to yaw during brake application. I had a failed magnet on one side (only 1 axle has brakes).
Having 2 braking axles, I wouldn't imagine a loss of one on one side to cause as much of an upset, but maybe it could. The fact that it wants to go either direction concerns me.
I have a Honda 3000i and a 13.5k AC. Works fine for me. I do turn the ECO-Mode off for a little boost in starting the compressor on the AC. When starting the roof AC, I got to fan only and wait a couple seconds, then go to 'Cool'. This reduces the inrush current and results in less load seen by the generator on AC start. My AC fan always runs, and the compressor cycles.
I have managed to throw the generator into overload a few times running a 14" chopsaw, or with my little Hobart Mig turned all the way up.
I'd keep the Dodge you've got, and go DRW conversion.
Get the front hub adapters. The DRW axle is a little wider for tire/frame/wheel well clearance, so you would need to run wheel spacers (sucks cuz you are doing this for weight carrying), or swap for a used axle.
Price is 'fair'... I paid $24500 for mine with 62k on it 4yrs ago (90% condition, bald tires, Big Horn Package). And for my area, I got a really good deal.
If it is a decently optioned truck, get it. The 4spd auto sucks for towing (if this has one). The gears are just too far apart. I'm running an Edge Juice, and my dad has an '01 Cummins (6spd manual, 3.55 gears, Edge Ez). I easily exceed his horsepower/torque output even on my stock flywheel output, but the 2 extra gears allowing each one to be closer makes a big difference. Where he would drop to 5th, I would have to go to 3rd and rev harder... The lack of gears sucks.
Mileage is great, and the 03-04 models do not have the 3rd injection event (emissions related), so they will squeeze a tiny bit better fuel economy than the 04.5-07 years.
Common issues are injector failure (install an aftermarket 2-micron fuel filter), super sloppy 47/48RE transmission (install a TransGo SK48RE shift kit.
Go get you a Smarty Jr programmer, run it mid-level without added timing, and make a good amount of power with reasonable exhaust temperatures, and go gross 25k pounds if you want. You're going to be limited to the tire capacity. Stock 17" tires will most likely have 3195lb ratings. IIRC my rear axle is rated for 6064lbs, 9k GVWR. Your GVWR will be a little higher.
I'd talk the guy down a few thousand and get it, if it is what you want. Compare price to others listed in your area. Because of the low mileage, I expect 'your' truck to be near the top of the spectrum. I love my 05, and plan to keep it for a VERY LONG time.
2003 S.O. Federal Emissions: 250HP/460lb.ft. Available with NV4500 or 47RE
2003 S.O. Calif. Emissions: 235HP/460lb.ft. Available with NV4500 or 47RE
2003 H.O. Federal Emissions: 305HP/555lb.ft. Only available with NV5600
2003.5 The 47RE was replaced by the 48RE automatic transmission and now available with the H.O.
2004 S.O. Calif. Emissions: 235HP/460lb.ft. Available with NV4500 or 48RE
2004 H.O. Federal Emissions: 305HP/555lb.ft. Available with either NV5600 or 48RE
Certain sections of I-15 in Utah along the Wasatch Corridor are posted "No vehicles towing trailers in the left 2 lanes", which would mean the Car Pool lane (left most) and the 'fast' lane (lane #2 from left).
I've seen plenty of vehicles towing popups, utility trailers, 20-something foot enclosed, and just riding along without a care. The ones that irritate me are the lane hogs. Now I get it, and I've done it, been in the fast lane when we are 5-wide, but I'm passing and then I get back over quickly. Just don't hang out there.
I've also been in the left most lane on 3-lane climbs when it has been posted no trailers in the left lane (east bound leaving Albuquerque, Cajon Pass, others). I'm usually one of the fastest vehicles on the climb and the cars are slowing me down. Never been stopped.
Lost ground clearance will depend on vehicle and hitch manufacturer.
The Bodiak is a nice idea, but I wouldn't buy one. Have a hitch mounted winch? Then you can't use your tow hooks to attach to when using a snatch block.
Own a 3rd Gen Dodge? The tow hooks are not direct-frame mount. They are mounted to a bracket (also holding the front bumper in place) that is bolted to the frame. Shock load the hitch and you could misalign the front bumper/tow hooks/hitch, and have the possibility of the bumper contacting the front fenders.
Direct bolt on for me. I was going to fab up a hitch similar to the Bodiak (in terms of location, but mount behind the hooks then decided against it because of the not-direct-frame) but I ended up with a Curt (purchased used locally). It hung down below the plastic air dam. I cut it up and welded it so that it protrudes just below the front license plate mount and gaining me 2.5" of ground clearance.
I ran Dynabeads on a motorcycle tire. ~15k miles later about half of them had turned to dust.
I'm now running airsoft pellets. I get a container of them from Walmart. They are the non-marking type, and you can get different weight beads (I get the heavier black ones). I have about 6-7oz in each of my truck tires, and 3oz in my motorcycle tires. They work great!
I do hear them roll around and cascade onto the aluminum wheels of my Dodge when going slower, or when approaching a stop you can hear them all fall down when the window is open. They've been on my truck for about a year now and I think they are great.
I've made two of them with my dad. 1 for a F450 he had with a 'hauler' style bed, so it was a custom fit. 1 for his 2nd gen.
The 'out' side is located on the driver's side of the tank, and pushes toward the rear of the truck along the bed side. A small nipple to a ball valve, so that the tank can be isolated because of a leak, or to remove the tank for any reason. After the ball valve there is an elbow and turns to rubber line that goes the the bed floor, and is protected using a chase-nipple (smooth radius electrical fitting). Goes through an inline fuel filter, then a 12V solenoid operated valve (aftermarket $25 fuel tank selector valve), then a high volume low pressure fuel pump. The tank is piped to a fitting that we welded to the metal part of the filler neck.
Keyed source toggle switch on dash energizes the selector valve and pump at same time to pump fuel from the aux to the main tank. Gravity feed was too slow so he added the pump.
Here is a link to the increased cost of the selector valve used. You will need to plug up one of the inlet ports (normally open port) so that junk doesn't get inside it.
Tank Selector Valve
Since you have a camper shell, here is a link to a guy that has one under a shell.