Boogie 4Wheel and bvereshagen, thank you both for you replies. Boogie 4whl, I see you have an older Dodge w/Cummins, do you think your mileage would be better with the newer models?
I think newer diesel mileage would be similar. When the DPF's first came in to play ('07.5 6.7L Dodge, 6.4L Ford, '07 new body style GM), the fuel economy really took at hit because of the added fueling required to burn the particulate filters clean. With the addition of DEF, economy numbers have come back up a lot, and the taller overdrives have made them just as, if not more efficient than the older diesels, and they have more gears and more power.
My parents have a '14 Cummins (4wd, dually, 68RFE, 3.73) pulling a horse trailer, and GCW of around 25k. 65-70mph their economy is sub-11, but I do not know the exact numbers. I've used that truck to pull a 24' goose flat bed (once loaded with 45hp tractor, once empty) across country, running 75+, and while it drank DEF, it was in the low teens. I would expect that truck to get comparable economy numbers as my pre-emissions truck with my trailer, and it has more power, more gears, and more comfort. There is also more to fail.
I know what the expense would be for certain parts on my truck if they fail (no major issues so far), and a newer one would only be more expensive; I would love to own a new(er) truck until something went wrong. The same applies in the other direction, a 2nd Gen Cummins is even more simple than my 3rd Gen, and the 2nd Gen is cheaper on parts (just compare the cost of an injector for example). This is why I fall back on saying if I were to go get a new truck, I'd most likely go with a big block gas. I would have to shift a little more, and burn a little more fuel, but it would get the job done just fine. I have no intentions of getting a larger trailer at this point in my life.
Dodge has a vacuum operated from axle on that era trucks. Metal and rubber tubing is run along the inside of the passenger frame rail, and the actuator diaphragm for the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) is on the backside of the front differential. Vacuum is controlled by the transfer case position, and there is a rubber plug on the (going off memory here, driver's side, upper part of the transfer case) that needs to be connected, and it can be disconnected and rotated and installed incorrectly.
Verify that the front axle is engaging. Jack up one side of the front axle just enough to get a front tire off the ground. Place truck in 4wd and start engine (to generate vacuum), and try to spin the front tire by hand. If you can spin it, then the CAD is not working, or there is an issue with the transfer case (try to spin the front driveshaft as well).
I want to say that there was 2 options for a front locker. ARB makes a selectable for the AAM 9.25, and I want to say somebody had an electric selectable as well. This was a few years back, so availability may have changed now.
There is also the Posi-Lock, a cable actuator that replaces the vacuum unit on the front axle. This is used to eliminate the vacuum system and is replaced with a push/pull knob that would be located under the dash, on the floor, ect. I was going to buy one of these for my '97 GMC to replace the thermal actuator when it died, but it never died...
Last 2 years, we go down mid-October for a 3 day dirt bike trip. Still manage to sweat on the slower trails. We take my buddy's tent trailer (no A/C) and manage just fine. First year we ran a space heater in the trailer just to knock the chill, nothing last year.
Both times we stayed at the Slick Rock Campground on the north side of town. Nice campground but be prepared for bike/SxS/buggy traffic for all the people running the trails. Good campground with a lot of room though. Can be hard to get out of in the evenings when everybody is heading in to town for dinner (even hard for 2 street legal dirtbikes to get out of there). To be honest, we are going to start staying out in the desert for free from now on (less noise and crowds), but will be returning this October.
My signature combo... Trailer weighs approx 6000 before water and bike.
Having a front bed is great because you can stop overnight and not need to unload the bike to use the trailer. I do wish I had a 24' instead of the 21' simply because my street bike (VTX1800T, 8'2" overall) protrudes into the living area a little bit too much. On my trailer, it also eliminates the ability to use the built in table/couches located at the back of the trailer.
When I was using it as a base camp for an extended work arrangement away from home, I parked my bike in it as a garage and just use a small chair and folding table. I kept the bike tucked up tight against one wall. But this was only me being in the trailer, it would have been tight for 2 people.
Running 65mph avg, I get 12-13mpg, sometimes in the 14's. With my truck, I have plenty of capacity in both weight and power. I do not feel my 700+lb tongue weight. The trailer rarely pulls me out of 4th on the steep interstate hills. I do not plan routes or worry about what roads to take.
We've been from LA to Glacier, interstate and 2-lane. I've never had an issue with hills, temperatures, or feeling underpowered.
With the available vehicles, I would go either a newer gas or maybe an older diesel; pricing would be similar. With my current trailer and something terrible happening to my truck, I'd be looking really closely at a Ford V10, Ram 6.4L, or maybe even a 6.0L or 8.1 GM depending on what I found available to me. I'm really attracted to the Ram Ecodiesel, but would be close to ratings after we packed up for a family of 4. Ford Ecoboost is another possibility.
Go north toward Cortez. East of there is the Mesa Verde Nat'l Park.
I'd avoid Tuba City (I don't think there is anything to see along there personally), turn toward page on Hwy-98 just after Kayenta. With that suggestion, you would miss out on the view from the Big Cut (near Bitter Springs), and you also have the option to drive to Lees Ferry (camp there if you wish), then continue on up to Jacob Lake.
If you are looking to just drive the Honda, make a loop of Kanab - North Rim - Lees Ferry - Page - Kanab. You cover some of the same ground, but you are missing out on some of the scenery along the Vermilion Cliffs on 89A.
Busskipper - good call on Canyon de Chelly! Haven't been there since a middle school trip.
I looked for that thread awhile back; I couldn't find it. Please post up a link if you find it!!!
He went through a lot of work to add that 2nd drive axle on that 2nd Gen Dodge. I would have liked to see it in person.
Freak deal if you get snow in October. I'd be more worried about getting 2 flat tires at the same time.
We ride Moab in October, and sweat during the day. We ran a space heater in a tent trailer two years ago, nothing last year.
I-70 from Sevier to Kanab is a good road. It has its share of twists and rollers, but do not hesitate to take this route. You aren't going to miss anything if you don't continue to I-15 and then head south.
I grew up in Page. Personally, if you aren't going to go to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, just take the route through Page. There is no need to do the climb just so you can turn at Jacob Lake and head down the switchbacks with a big trailer; that would just be a waste of time and fuel. Besides, the 89A from House Rock Valley Rd to the river is shoulder-less and not the smoothest stretch of pavement. In a car/truck/bike sure, great alternate with some good views, but not running heavy.
I lose little (if any) fresh water. But, my fresh tank is beneath the floor (external) so there is a big elevation change between the fill and breather point and the tank on my trailer.
I have seen some trailers lose a little bit on sweeping right handers or big bumps while traveling. But that doesn't mean that the other were not carrying water.
My trailer didn't move for 19mo. I did nothing more than run the stabilizers down on the 4 corners on top of a wood block to keep them from wearing in to the dirt/gravel base. Then I wrapped the trailer with a OSB skirt backed with 1" foam insulation. Lived in it during the week.
At the end of my assignment, I pulled the 'skirting', added a little air to the tires, then pulled 300mi home. That was over a year ago, still on the same tires.
If you know you are going to stay for a awhile, I would jack on the frame near the spring hanger, pull the tires, then lower down on to a block with a wood topper placed either on the u-bolts or just next to the u-bolts (depending on your spring/axle configuration). Watch out for lowering the trailer too much so that you can get underneath and access plumbing and electrical if necessary.
The amount of light that is passed in to the trailer. You may want a smoked or black for a bedroom if you wish to reduce the amount of light.
I have white on all of mine, and by themselves reduce some light. I added 'heavy duty' vent plastics on two that needed to be replaced, which reduced light entry even more. I have foam/foil pillows for the vents to insulate and eliminate any light entry, so the white covers were the best choice for me.
Replace the downpipe from the turbo, if it hasn't been done already. The stock downpipe is mashed flat to clear the firewall. Banks (and others) make a round downpipe that flows much better than stock, and mates up with the rest of the factory exhaust.
We ran a Banks Get-Kit on a '95 PSD with an auto and 4.10. It fueled hard enough that you would have to back out of it on the long pulls because of exhaust temperatures (may have been partially because of truck age). It was a different truck with the downpipe and piggyback chip. We finally started overpowering the torque convertor clutch at around 250k, and the truck was sold because of an upgrade to an '01 Cummins 6spd.
It all depends on how much you want to spend. A new compressor wheel, an upgraded turbo with larger turbo housing, more fuel, add an intercooler, and the list goes on. The Get-Kit was a Saturday install, and made a world of difference.
I have a pie-shaped lot in a cul-de-sac. The back yard is much wider than the front and driveway.
I have to dodge the fire hydrant on my right, then dodge the corner of the house on my left, then dodge the edge of the gate on my right, then dodge the truck cover on my left when backing in my trailer.
The day I brought my trailer home, I forgot about the height and ran the top rear corner against the rain gutter of the house; no damage other than the rain gutter.
About 4 years later, I catch the rear awning leg on the gate, ripping the two lag bolts out of the wall.
2 weeks ago, pulling the trailer out to the front to prep for a trip, I forgot about the trailer height again and caught the gutter with the roof at mid-trailer. I expected destroyed rubber roof, just cracked a little breather cover.
I ran Dyna Beads on my motorcycle tires and I never had an issue with them getting stuck inside the valve stem.
I use air-soft pellets now (generic brand, non-marking from Walmart). They are too big to fit in a valve stem, are cheaper, and work just as well.
Turn the Eco-Mode off on the generator to help eliminate this problem.
The inrush on the A/C overloads the generator and it has a hard time getting the engine up to speed when this happens. With the Eco-mode off, the generator can better handle the inrush.
The air conditioner is run via 120VAC, and will have its own circuit breaker.
The fuse in question powers what exactly? Something that was added... Thermostat maybe? Something the previous owner did. Pull the fuse and see what stops working. Unless the wire is small (18ga or smaller), I wouldn't worry about the fuse being a 15A.
The empty slots are usually spares. I added a 12V cig-style plug near the bed in my trailer for a car charger for my phone, and used one of the spare slots and added the appropriate fuse for the wire I pulled (15A).
I bet a 100W inverter would charge the jumper-box. They have those little transformer plugs and the charging current is very low.
The one I had came with a male-male 12V cig plug to use the recept on the box and plug it in to the outlet in the truck/trailer. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do the same.
My rig is very similar to yours (see sig). Before bikes I'm right at the 6k weight (around 750 on the tongue when all empty, but I'm sure it is a little more since when I bought the trailer and we've loaded more stuff in it and in the storage area), and have gone over 7k total trailer weight before. My fresh is right at the axles, then black, then gray as we move toward the tongue so my tongue gets heavier as the trip goes on.
I've been running nearly 5yrs without WD on my current setup. Prior to this truck, I used a '97 GM half-ton with a 4-Way Equilizer. Back to back, I think the half-ton was ever so slightly more stable. I gave the WD hitch to my father in law, but recently got it back out of curiosity of what difference it would make on my combination.
We made a quick run last weekend about an hour from the house and I just slapped the hardware on the trailer the night before. I know I'm not getting enough transfer onto the steer axle. With that said, I didn't notice any benefit to the steering-stability of the rig. If anything it seemed like my truck did not want to return to center as well and would want to continue to turn while driving sweeping curves, but I recall my old truck doing that as well with the WD installed. It did however reduce the bounce that I had on the rear axle during overpass transfers or other large bumps in the road.
I'm going to get it setup correctly for the next trip and see how it does. I doubt I will go out and buy another one unless there is a mindblowing difference, which I don't expect there to be.