RE: How much can the landing gears lift?
If you are on that much of a slant, as soon as the truck wheels leave the ground away you go...
Now THAT'S a good point that hadn't crossed my mind. That would be a rude wakeup call. Unless the gear dug in, it would roll for sure.
RE: How much can the landing gears lift?
I definitely would not lift the truck with the landing gear. I doubt it would have the power to do it anyway.
And I'll bet that is not the reason your fridge isn't firing off.
RE: Do I really need a sliding hitch?
For those questioning my math. Please double check and let me know if I'm wrong
2012 F250 diesel SRW Crew Cab (based on weight ratings published by Ford)
Max towing 15,200
GCWR 23,500
GVWR 10,000
RAWR 6,000
Truck weight 7000 (based on scales with no passengers and full fuel)
2013 Montana Mountaineer 375FLF (based on door sticker)
Dry Weight 11,880
Dry Hitch weight 2120
Max cargo 3680
Max Weight 15,560
Max Pin Weight 2800 (based on 18% pin/RV weight rating from Keystone Website)
So, using the above weight ratings we come up with this.
Assuming 3,000 pounds of cargo based on what the average person loads in RV (found on this website)
RV weight 14,880 (320 pounds below max truck tow rating)
GCWR with 500 pounds for passengers and dogs 22,380 (1120 below max)
GVWR with 500 pounds for passengers and dogs 10,178 (178 above max)
RAWR 2678 pin weight (3322 below max)
Now, I realize that my GVWR is over weight by 178 pounds and the RV weight is close to max, however I'm confident that my truck will be able to handle it. I also don't know where I'm going to get a ton and a half of cargo either. Thanks.
As someone noted, you neglected the curb weight on the rear axle. You might want to go back to the scale and check the front and rear axle weights separately. Then redo the math.
It is true that the rear axle is the same on an F250 and F350SRW. But the tires and wheels may not be. If you've got the base level wheels/tires, they are pretty much maxed out at the rated 6k# RAWR. Also, the new F250's sag really badly compared to a few model years ago. If you think you will load the rear axle up to the F350SRW rating, you will be shocked at how much it sags. So you're looking at air bags to level it out. AND you will be over the F250 rating. Some folks do that every day, so you will have to decide for yourself if you are comfortable with that.
Load your truck up as you would for a camping trip, including passengers, then weigh that rear axle. I think you will be surprised at how much more than 7k# curb weight before you even hitch up the trailer. Also, don't forget to add the weight of whatever hitch you decide to install.
RE: Order of pulling gray H2O levers on Cougar 293SAB
I know it's not convenient or much fun, but with a longer hose you could probably do both outlets without moving the coach. Guessing from the photo, about 15' of Rhino would do the job. But NOT the blue/brown slinky style. The working length of those is never as long as they say it is. A Rhino stretches out and stays stretched until you purposely collapse it back down. No spring involved.
RE: Do I really need a sliding hitch?
No one knows if you will ever need to turn more than 79 degrees. So without a slider, you will always have this one extra thing to think about. Isn't backing up stressful enough without one extra thing to worry about?
Also, just because they tell you it is a 79 degree front cap, that doesn't guarantee you'll get 79 degrees with your particular truck and hitch. Could be more or less.
Personally, I have a long bed, but if I didn't, I would want a slider of one sort or another.
I don't know how you crunched numbers and came up with that F250 handling that very large fiver. You didn't ask about that, so I will just wish you luck.
RE: Order of pulling gray H2O levers on Cougar 293SAB
You will probably find that you don't have a flush system on the rear black tank. Only on the front black. So I would dump that rear black first, and run some water down the toilet or bath to get a bit of a flush.
Then front black, and then I usually open both grays at once. There is nothing gained by doing the grays one at a time.
I have also installed a blade valve at the outlet. I like to drain the black, leave the black valve open and close the outlet valve. Then open a gray and let it flush back up into the black. Then close the gray valve, and open the outlet valve to drain the black again. This uses some gray waste to help clean the black tank. Black waste never enters the gray tank. Gravity pushes it toward the black.
RE: Picked our new cougar today!
Congratulations on the new fiver. Our Cougar has been very good to us for about 2.5 years now. Hasn't been back to the dealer once.
Now, get off the forum and go camping!!!
RE: blocking up camper to compensate for slope
If you can get it level without blocking under the tires, I would probably just go with that. Then worry about the jacks going high enough when it came time to hitch up. And if that turned out to be a problem, I would raise the front enough to get blocks under the front end of the frame, then retract and add blocks under the landing gear. That should give plenty of lift to get hitched back up. Advantage being, you won't be so high off the ground while sitting on the site.
RE: Half ton towing
The wife and I were looking at all of the different size fifth wheels, some short and some are not. Almost all are towed with a F-250 or larger. We were courious if any manufacture has models that are 1/2 ton towable
There are definitely plenty of fivers that are half ton towable. They are the smaller ones of course. If you own an appropriate half ton, it can make sense.
If you own an Expedition, and have to buy a pickup anyway, it wouldn't make any sense to me to go out and choose a half ton. It doesn't cost but a little to get a 3/4 ton, and only a little more to get a 1 ton. There isn't any downside, except for a few who live in certain cities that don't want trucks around.
RE: Do I need a bearing repack?
No way would I be packing the bearings on a 1 year old trailer with almost no miles. That's just me, backed up with a lot of experience. But if you've got lingering doubts in your mind, then it may be worth the expense to pull a hub and check them.
If you have to ask this question, you may not have the experience to do this job yourself, particularly just before you leave for an extended trip.
RE: Well it "ALMOST" happened
I've had the cord tangle more than once. Was always able to work it out, but still a pain in the patoot. From inside the access panel was just screwed down, so I could remove it if necessary. I modified that panel to be an easy opening door. Now the cord probably won't ever get stuck since it is so easy to get to, but if it ever does I'll feel really smart for a few minutes.
RE: New truck break in period.
One, people like you who believe there is some sort of conspiracy theory when it comes to OEM's recommendations and people on the internet will know better.
Yea, the irony is not lost on me, you can be sure.
But, it is not a conspiracy theory to acknowledge that many factors go into manufacturers maintenance recommendations, or ratings, or whatever.
Anyway, we're getting way off topic. As I said earlier, break-in periods are important, and not just made up or junk science, so ignore them at your own risk.
RE: New truck break in period.
...you came after me for giving my opinion on how to do a break in period on a vehicle..why, I don't know...
Nah, not coming after you. Simply quoted you to make a general point. You're taking things a bit too personally, again.
I'm beginning to notice you don't like being quoted, so I shall try to refrain in the future.
RE: New truck break in period.
....bottom line, didn't read through all this, maybe I should have, but I would look at the owners manual and do what the manufacturer of your vehicle recommends as far as a break in period/mileage empty and towing goes....that's the way I've aways done it and never had the first issue or problem with the vehicle...I figure the people who design and manufacture the truck ought to know the best way to "break it in" and have put that in the owners manual to be read by the owner.
And therefore, you assume that manufacturers always have YOUR best interest in mind? Sorry but I don't think life is so simple that you can just blindly follow a manufacturers recommendation without doing some research on your own. Asking this question to the forum is just one form of research.
RE: Volt Minder
...Regarding the default alarm voltage being too low, please keep in mind that this can be set from 10.5V to 13.5V. Also, this setting is saved so that if you disconnect the unit, it remains the same when you plug it back in. ...
Are you refering to the old model, or the soon to be released model? Because that is not my experience with my old model. It loses the alarm setting when powered down.
Thanks for joining the convo here on the forum. Like I said, I do like your product.
Gary contacted me on the PM side, and my Voltminder should be holding the alarm settings in memory. My own memory is not so reliable. Please disregard my comments about the alarm. Sorry for the misinformation.
Obviously I'm too lazy to go out and disconnect my batteries to find out. :o
RE: New truck break in period.
The 500 mile statement is in our manual for the 3500 gas, but it doesn't state it anywhere in the duramax booklet. At least I can't find it. We were given both manuals. To be safe, I guess we will put off picking up the new fifth for another week. I'm sure they will hold it for us for another week. We are just anxious to get it.
How far to get it home? I belive in following the break-in recommendation, and yes, it is for the gears not the engine. But if you've got a 50 mile short haul to get your trailer home, I would do that. Just take it as easy as you can and get that trailer home. You won't do any harm with a short haul.
RE: Volt Minder
...Regarding the default alarm voltage being too low, please keep in mind that this can be set from 10.5V to 13.5V. Also, this setting is saved so that if you disconnect the unit, it remains the same when you plug it back in. ...
Are you refering to the old model, or the soon to be released model? Because that is not my experience with my old model. It loses the alarm setting when powered down.
Thanks for joining the convo here on the forum. Like I said, I do like your product.
RE: Volt Minder
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v7UJIu0cXwQ/TdaNm7PGl0I/AAAAAAAAAhw/6Iai-T_nz2Y/s640/Voltmeter2.JPG
I like my Voltminder fine. Moved it from our old trailer to the new one. But there are plenty of digital volt meters out there, and if I was going to mount it semi-permanently like I did, I wouldn't wait around for Voltminder to get back in stock. It does have the alarm, but it isn't very useful IMO. The default alarm voltage is too low to be useful. I think you can change it, but it will lose the setting every time power is disconnected. If you camp off the grid a lot like we do, you won't have any problem remembering to check the voltage level frequently, so the alarm isn't important.
