that is good info. so if it's allowed to cool, you might can carefully make another dozen miles?
do you think there is a way to use the VIN to see if our rig has a different model fuel pump that corrects rhe earlier problem?
with 3 dogs, a freeway or other breakdwn and overnite waits would be very difficult?
that happened at costco and we got it going at another station.
no fuel pump fail yet on 2005 tl. is there a probable time frame for these to go out? or mileage? or model year?
and maybe a better question: "is there an after market fix with a fuel pump that's mounted somewhere else?"
new sensor is in. i erased codes, so we'll see...j-d said what i have gleaned from many websites "Bear in mind, it's "probably" the O2 sensor. Commonly replaced, consumable kind of part. Same idea as a spark plug. Still, other problems in a system "can" trigger a code so simply replacing the part bearing the code's name may not clear the problem."
When we went to autozone, they only had Bosch. so for a 1st timer, i figured i'd just try it for $47. i also had realized i had no 7/8" wrench, and they were out of slit sockets, so i got what was there, a $10 12" long 7/8" wrench (open/box ends). turns out this was fortunate as the old sensor was frozen on even w/ WD40.
the slit socket would not have worked - no room, so i agree w/ you guys that the offset O2 wrench is likely better. but FYI, the old and new end wire harnesses both pass through the box end of the 7/8" wrench. so with running the engine to heat the metals, more WD40, and that 12" leverage, i somehow got one lucky sharp rap that broke frozen O2 free to hand turn.
fingers crossed and thanking you all once again for leading this novice wrench thru yet another fix-it adventure.
thanks to this clue from turbojimmy, "I can clearly see all 4 sensors from underneath. I've had to change 2 of them, both post cat tho," i got back under to look more.
i knew catastrophic converters were big, but all the internet drawings led me to believe the cats were within the exhaust manifold close to engine. well, once i spotted my 2 catalytics under the coach and found both #2 sensors there behind the canisters, i see that what i thought was HO2S bank 1 sensor 2 is actually sensor 1 - the upstream O2 sensor i probably need to change for DTC P0053.
thanks guys...think i'll see how hard removing the harness is, and start off using WD40 to penetrate and a 7/8" wrench.
i read that for chevy trucks, the bank 1 cylinders are uniquely on your right as you face engine from bumper - driver side.
the 6.0L V8 is tight and you are reaching way down past valve cover near spark plug of cyl 1 and exhaust manifold. i cannot see it well, but there is a spark-plug-like thing with wires insulated in what martha tells me is a shiny foil-like insulation. this wire goes into a bigger sheathed cable of wires, which seems odd. i think this is HO2S in question - bank1,sensor1. but where is it's harness plug-in?
from underneath, i can clearly see the bank1,sensor2 O2 sensor. its wires are sheathed in common black plastic insulation and go 12" to the harness connection.
i may use the slot socket, but 1st i might need a chevy owner of a 2005 vintage to explain what i am seeing/feeling.
about 2 months ago i posted a thread where i learned how to scan the engine for DTCs. the CEL had come on and i scanned to find the 2005 chevy 6.0L (the chevy has 43,000 mi) had two codes: P0449 (EVAP emmission control vent vlv/sol malf), and P0053 (HO2S bank 1 sensor 1 heater resistance).
i erased them to see what would stick, and after a few startups and around 200 mi later, the CEL has returned w/ two Actron scanner error codes: P0053 and P0053 pd (pending).
i googled some info and found out about where to look for the sensor. if i am correct, a chevy bank 1, sensor 1 is on driver side, up front by cylinder 1. from the open hood, feeling in that area, i do find what appears sorta like a spark plug with wires coming out top that are wrapped in shiny sheathing/insulation. this wire disappears into a fatter black sheathed conduit of what i suppose contains other wires being routed someplace. thus i do not know where this (what i am taking to be the) B1S1 O2 sensor's harness comes out at its other end and is connected.
from under the engine, i am pretty sure i spot the B1S2 O2 sensor on the downstream-of-catalytic side with a short black wire rising 12" or so to its connection harness.
how critical and/or common is P0053? am i actually feeling looking at B1S1? do i need to remove the cab doghouse to find its harness connection? i hope not since i do not see/know how to do that.
as always, any insights would sure be helpful and appreciated.
I don't think these smaller Winnebago have a bird like my DP did. Engine running will charge both sets of batteries.Plugged in to shore power will only charge house batteries, unless to put your own charging relay.
a couple of us have learned our smsll, kinda ordinary Cs have the BIRD relay so that whenever you charge house batt by shore or genset, AND THIS IS the WEIRD THING, whenever the house batt is toggled ON and has more juice than the chassis batt, the chassis batt is being charged.
my trail lite has no chassis batt disconnect that i know of, but i wish it did.
this BIRD relay seems to either be a rare thing, or not many rv.net posters are aware they have one.
RV Tips has really taken off on Facebook (28,000+ members). I find I come here less and less. I still enjoy this site but maybe others have found alternatives as well.
ever sInce Admin noted there is a marked downturn in RV.net posts speaking to a thread in the Class B forum, i have been wondering where everyone went. i wondered if the groups sponsored by each manufacturer were gaining, or yahoo groups, or social media groups like you posted. may need to look into FB.
you did say shore batt was dead before i posted. anyway, you have a chassis or engine batt, and one or two house or coach battery(ies). no such thing as shore batt. the shore power is from an AC cord plugged into RV.
if you can, start genset (the onboard way to get AC) and have house batt toggled ON. now try your emergency start toggle (boost). if it works, the emergency start solenoid is OK.
i think boost is only good one way. you maybe left something on in coach that you've heavily drained house batt. put house batt toggle to ON or USE and plug rv to shore power overnite then try.
be sure to toggle house batt to OFF or STORE when MH is not in use. otherwise, maybe like my rig and maybe yours too - there is a BIRD relay that connects house batt to chassis, and as long as chassis batt is lower than house batt, the house will drain to chassis batt. a goofy thing, i think.
the BIRD is one way like the dash boost toggle, but they are somehow different. i think the boost is for manual action in emergency. the bird allows shore power to charge both batteries, or this is what i make of the distinction, anyhow.
We started out with travel trailer and now have a Jayco class c 25 foot. Hubby and I find it so much more convenient (no unhooking, hooking). Breakdown time is minimal as we do not carry a lot of camping "accessories" that have to be put away.
We use ours as a roaming hotel and stop when the day is done. Boon docking or dry camping/free camping is what we like.
Oh, also all our "stuff" is just right there. If hubby wants a really quick snack I can quickly go get it.
WE don't do a toad now either...we may change that in the future for some trips.
all this and note that onboatd microwave and AC powered by genset make for cool, easy reststops on long travel days in hot summer. lf no dogs, you never have to open the door - nice if u park in long truck pull thru strips at interstate rest areas is nice.
i think it would be insightful here to compare the features and performance of a winne Via with a winnie View. while both are on the same sprinter 24' chassis (i think), one is an A and one a C. how winnie put the same chassis to work advantageously as distinctly different MH types may tell us something about what the typical market buyer looks for.
EVERY MH builder must also be a good marketer, or they soon exit the stage.
because the A forums wouldn't include B+s in their forums :):)
but really, wanted a small van size RV, fond all of the Bs too small, and the B+ (small C) about right. historically, motorhomes were As, Cs were mini-motohomes as OP noted. smaller dimensions and manners on roadway seem a common reply to OP.