i WAS SO IMPRESSED W/ YOUR COACH BATT SERVICE THAT i ADDED A SMALL AMT. OF WATER TO MY 5.5 Y/O wm gROUP 24 dp MARINE BATT AND CHARGED IT. i WILL MONITOR VOLTAGE A WHILE - IT IS A NICE 12.65 THIS MORNING.
tHE CHARGING KILLED THE 9+ Y/O dELCO GROUP 78, WHICH IS 10.74 THIS MORNING.
OOPS, SORRY BOUT CAPS LOCK.
smkettner, those AGMs are sweet, but for my Onan start needs, a bit on the expensive end.
Gene, my battery setup is like yours - hard to do. I did something similar by putting a concrete block in place so I would not have to "lift it down" in one big step. There is something more than just keeping the water topped off. none of my three, or so, deep cycle batts behaved well for long, which is one reason I want to maybe try a starting battery for a change. Perhaps the thicker plate deep cycle designs need to be discharged regularly, which we really never do. I am encouraged that your Dura Start lasted so long down there (I assume it was a starting batt?)
Reserve Capacity (RC) is how many minutes it takes a 25 amp load to bring a battery doen below 10.5 volts. I think Amp-hours (AH) is RC/2.4. The sIted AH of our old 24DP marine batt is 105, or RC=250 min.
I found a dated chart for Costco California Batts that says its Group 78 batt has 110 min RC. I am pretty sure this would beat what my old battery could do today. And if the Costco is maintenance free so I do not have to fight to get water in it (no slide out batt tray on MH)...
What are strong reasons you electrical folk would consider for not switching to a start batt in our low DC power use case?
For someone that rarely uses RV w/o shore or genset AC current, do you suppose this powerful group 78 from Costco batt would have enough amp-hrs to handle minimal DC needs other than starting the genny?
It would be nice to have a low/no maintenance batt in the coach, and having identical type and age batts might prove a plus.
In addition to plans for a new Size 78 engine battery from Costco, our Walmart marine dual cycle is not so good, and it tends to stay in the 12.37V realm, as it has for most of its 6 yrs. We do not boondock and rarely need to do much more than start the generator (4kW Onan) monthly to exercise it. It is very hard to access. I would love to put in a maintenance free start battery - ideally one w/ a bit of amp-hour storage in case we wanted to sparingly use DC sometime. Maybe even using the same size 78 batt as the chassis.
Any info and thoughts on these two batts and Costco options for both cases would be appreciated.
Edit: I needed to break this two part post up - a short single title just looked confused.
Our MH is over 9 years old and its original AC Delco size 78 side terminals batt has been on life support for some time now. Overnite shore charging before a trip allow it to start engine and even do so a few days later, but it drops off to 10V soon after. I hope to take it out and go to our soon to open Costco for a new one. Do all 78 batteries mount to the truck via front and rear chocks/clamps which hold down a lip at the battery's base and loosened by a single nut? That is what I think I am looking at on out 6.0L Chevy.
Any other info and thoughts on the Costco size 78 batts would also be appreciated.
I recently asked the forum posters about how anyone can just give away free computer protection support.
Really did not get an answer.
Either they got the virus sigs from someone (MS, perhaps) for free themselves, and use it to naybe snag a few people willing to pay them for a glossier 'premium' program, or, as I suspect they sell the data they glean from freely scanning your PC.
If I am gonna let someone freely scan my PC, I figure it may as well be MS. I mistrust them a bit less, I guess.
Long ago the best advice I received was to have at least 3 anti=malware programs.. Today I'm told that can be a problem.
I have Malware Bytes free version as the 2nd one on this system.. I do not like to give out what is #1 but
A recent review listed as I recall, Norton, AVG AVAST Malware Bytes all among the top five.. Microsoft Defender did not make the top 10 list but was farther down.
What would be MS's incentive to under-protect its OS and add to its already bad rep as viral code.
A reputation which they are foolishly further worsening with all the incomprehensibly bad marketing strategies surrounding their mishandling of XP EOS.
Once again I just don't get it. I think a lot of folks are searching for a solution for which there is no known problem.
How can keeping your starting battery charged be a problem? Unless you have a failure of the engines charging system a starting battery can sit for weeks without losing its ability to start the engine. Drive a few miles and you are back to square one. Even if the starting battery did die, say you left your headlights on, most motorhomes come with an emergency start switch that allows you to tap into the house bank to boost the starting battery back into full operation.
It is a problem.
Perhaps you don't understand issues with RV batteries including parasitic battery drains and charging. Parasitic drains are battery drains that occur even when the RV is sitting and not being used. These may include gas detectors, refrigerators, radios with clocks, TVs, etc. Even many RV's with house battery disconnect switches, don't disconnect everything.
There can be parasitic drains to both the chassis and house batteries. Sometimes house batteries are dead in a week of sitting due solely to parasitic drains. So if both sets of batteries are dead, the emergency switch isn't going to be helpful.
Also, driving a few miles isn't going to fully recharge any battery. It takes 4-6 hours to recharge my house battery on a 20amp portable charger. Granted, a RV alternator is going to be putting out more amps, but it still isn't going to be enough to recharge the batteries in a few miles--more like a few hours of driving. Also, charging at a lower amp rate is better for your batteries.
Another point--chassis batteries are generally not deep cycle and thus they are easily damaged by discharging. So, just because they can be recharged doesn't mean that you shouldn't be concerned about them being discharged. Even a couple of discharges could permanently damage the battery.
Although the Trik-L-Start works, it isn't an ideal solution. From their website:
HOW DOES TRIK-L-START™ WORK? TRIK-L-START™ is a "diversion charger" - Basically, it "steals" a little bit of current from your house battery charger, diverting it to keep your engine starting battery(s) charged.
So, the Trik-L-Start only charges the chassis battery when the house battery is getting charged. This would work best when the house battery discharges at a greater rate than the chassis battery (which, granted, is probably the most common). So, when the chassis battery is run down and the house battery isn't, it could take quite some time for the chassis battery to recharge--perhaps several days.
Proper battery charging is complicated. Ideally, each battery bank should be charged with a 3-stage smart charger. These chargers customize the charge depending on the state of the battery bank and possibly on the type of battery (starting or deep-cycle).
So, the Trik-L-Start isn't going to perform as well as independent 3-stage chargers for both the chassis and house batteries would. However, as is evidenced by other posts here, it is working well enough for many folks.
For more detailed info see:
BATTERIES--AND OTHER ELECTRIC STUFF
The 12v Side of Life
Look into BiRD. Many RVs already have it, and it sounds like Trik-L-Start
I still dream of cutting cable w/ an attic antenna and an in line amp. The coat hanger 4 bowtie I made got nearly all local channels. The bowties are each formed by two 14" lengths of wire bent into sideways Vs w/ points adjacent to one another. I thought if I doubled their size, I might pick up more things.
Truth is, as sorry as cable TV gets, OTA is even more lacking. Will likely never cut cable, I guess.
I think the whole point of the OP's post was to show that there is no such thing as a digital antenna.
I think you hit the nail right on the head! Thanks! You said that much better than I did!
That part is dead on.
Adding the right equipment: good directional antenna, RG-6 coaxial cable, good amplifier, second in-line amplifier, can improve the range vastly (up to 160 miles at night.
if I had to pick rabbit ears (VHF) over a loop (UHF), I gather that the UHF is where most digital ststions are...
MNTundra, what is best UHF antenna form (bowtie, fractal, yagi...)
I realize this is like asking what is best dog breed, but a few thoughts would be useful.
The tuner is part of the equation, too. We live in a rural area and can pick up a couple dozen stations with an antenna in the attic. I rigged up a computer to use as a DVR with the same antenna. The tuner on the TV card in the computer doesn't pull in stations as reliably as the tuner in the Toshiba TV set. Frustrating when I want to record a program on one of the weaker stations.
yes. I am pretty sure the USB tuner was not as capable as the 19" best buy insignia tv at capturing from the same antenna.
This is a situation in which a bare wire can work fine, but a properly sized antenna usually, but not always, will work better. Electromagnetic radiation (TV signals) have specific wavelengths (around half a meter for the signals in the TV band). An antenna the receiving elements of which are approximately this length or multiples of it will have higher gain (ability to receive) than will an arbitrarily sized wire. The OP's improvised antenna will work fine as long as the signal strength is reasonably high.
if you're close to the faucet, you don't need a hose.
My USB tuner came with a 15" whip antenna and a coax connector. It couldn't pick up many local channels at all, while the bowtie coat hanger rig got most of them, and with the Radio shack amp, the 4 dipole bowties caught 'em all up in the attic.
And the winegard amplified batwing/wingman with the radioshack cable tv amp picks up signals from 70 miles off. I got NO from here in BR