i guess caps were OK
shop said compressor was running, so they ran a half hour or so.
after this, he said the compressor had stopped. so, just like we had determined after a good run, no cool air.
i think they mean there is no freon, unless they mean compressor is weak...but they say $1000 for install of new upper unit is verdict.
we hardly ever run the AC except to put a load on the genset which we only run to exercise the genset!
i want to look into one of those very compact wall AC units you see in tiny TTs like T@B. or some portable cooler. these might be useful for a few hours a year, at most. we go to local SPs late sept thru early may
a couple yrs ago, i disconnected the BIRD solenoid that allows both engine and coach batts to link for charging and emergency start.
since then, i have disconnect the pos term of the fully charged coach batt when RV is not in use. it tends to stay well over 12.7 V for weeks.
i do not disconnect the engine batt because of rough starts as computer relearns. i recharge it weekly, where it drops from a rest 12.8V to 12.65V each week.
both batts are identical 1 yr old costco type 78 (we do no dry camp, so no deep cycle needed)
i thought i would leave the house batt pos term hooked up with the house disconnect solenoid toggled STORE, of course. at that time, the house was 12.8V, and the engine was 12.73V
but only a few days later, the house is 12.7V and the engine 12.5V --i was expecting a little more drop than usual in the house, and i guess 12.8 --> 12.7V maybe confirms that.
but the engine dropped 12.73 --> 12.5V in just a couple days! remember, the only thing new for these couple days was leaving pos term of coach batt connected.
what could be going on?
i used sheetmetal to rebuild the front end of my molded plastic wheelwell liner w/ its curved-top and back wall. same wheel blew as yours, but ours took out propane pipes and spewed gallons of it on the hot smoking tire.
was able to do all repairs w/o jacking and removing duallys
well. i have taken in a lot of info from your help and related googles to know that i cannot diagnose this given my limited abilities in HVAC fixin', phobia of electronics i don't know, and low visual acuity. just attemptind to replacing the two caps exceeds what i am comfortable with.
my RV dealer says they'll diagnose for around $55 - a bargain to me.
my only question now is if this ducted sealed refrigerant penguin model 600315.321 unit is needing to be replaced, is there a simpler budget model AC that would easily fit in its place. less BTU, non-ducted w/ ceiling controls are fine for us - we seldom need AC but for summer exercise restaurant/park day runs. also, the wall duo-therm thermostat still needs to work the propane atwood furnace...so can the thermostat on wall still work atwood alone?
thanks for advice
i am appreciating the help...
without disconnecting brown wire from the silver RUN capacitor, can i still just run the AC and feel compressor tubes for heat/cold and determine something?
if so, from my pics, where should i put my hand on compressor or its tubes?
in the caps pic, what is the black thing in the upper left?
since the the blower fan works on hi and lo, is the black COMP/START capacitor w/ the red and white wire the more likely cap to be the prob if compressor is not right?
if i short the red and white wires atop the black capacitor w/ a plastic handle screwdriver, will it melt the wire connectors to te capacitor terminals?
also i am wondering what behavior would tend to indicate a control panel issue?
capacitors were behind the panel with wiring that is figure 4 in my previous post.
i can't really tell what is what here. i also did not see how to disconnect blower motor.
martha took these exciting pics. one of the labels has a duo-therm model #
i do not know where the capacitors are. in p1c #10 on the end of the compressor i see a small cylinder - is that one?
thx, ron, i will keep that in mind as i progress...
what seems to be called a 'freeze control sesor' dropped down and i do not know if i just caused it or if it happened in past.
it appears to need to be clipped to something related to the coils directly above it (loosely gleaned from some discussion group), so i put it on a copper coil loop ----(right, wrong?)
the 3 amp fuse from hre looked OK
a pic of thermostat
it runs but it isn't cooling the air. i think the thermostat let it shut off as i pushed it toward 80 deg.
it's in an '05 22 ft trail lite. a few pics follow.
any tips, ideas, insights are mucho appreciated in advance...
inside looking up
top hole is cold air out, bottom is air intake
air intake is oriented to RV cab
closeup of one of the labels
It seems that we are talking about different products here. Some are talking of full wheel simulators, which are physically secured by nuts, while other full wheel simulators are held on by retainers, similar to a car hub cap. You can lose the latter easily, and in my opinion you would be foolish to attach any kind of valve extender to these. Other people seem to be referring to regular hub caps, which obviously only cover the hub. :?
That seems to be the problem when this subject comes up.
Some people call them simulators when they are really hubcaps or wheel covers Like this
A real simulator bolts on the wheel and will not come off unless you loose a Lug nut
So which one do you have??
had no isea there were so many ways to bling your wheels. i just spray painted the rusty brown protruding rear hubs and front indented hubs a sandy color to sorta go with the RV decals
ron.dittmer is the guru on phoenix and has a 2007 PC 2350. he has often posted detailed breakdowns of B+ vs C features. i like our B+ also.
forget about wiring or unique maintenance needs of a chevy or ford B+. as ron will point out, they are Cs that are typically 6-8" narrower than a C, and usually have streamlined fiberglass front and rear outsides.
the fiberglass roof of the winnie 22R and PC 2350 is a good thing for a motorhome that sits outdoors a lot. the narrower PC will be a little bi easier to drive, but out west where things are more spacious, the difference may be nill.
i think you are .ooking at equally good choices. research if newer winnies have leaky cabover bed issues (they may not). if they do not leak, like you, i'd go w/ winnie for newness and a bit roomier interior.
I did not know about your mishap with the rear tire. Those inner duals are a little harder to contend with. I carry my infrared temperature gun to get some warning about low tire pressure - increased heat due to flex. It does not sound like you had that problem, merely tire failure.
i remember you discussing that years ago. i still am looking for a good dual head air gauge w/ one being a straight shoe. many just do not seat right and you let out air fumbling w/ it. i want to have it in my hands and test fit it to a valve stem extender from my pocket.
nite before the blowout, while removing the white vinyl wheel covers, i felt some alarming tread distortions on 4 rear tires. because all 4 had similar unevenness, i didn't know what to think. i told martha to keep it well under 60mph on the 30 mi stretch of interstate, and i wrote down phone numbers for some dealers and roadside assistance. 15 mi of interstate and bam. i subsequently discovered these uniroyal laredos were made the same time as others that were recalled. every fiber of my being tells me these 225/75/r16 load range E should have been included. uniroyal lawyers will not admit it, and NHTSA dropped the ball when not including them.
the interactions w/ all the tire dealer and manufacturer people, roadside assistance workers, insurance people, and RV shop managers/workers throughout this whole affair served to reinforce my long held uneasiness of being a citizen of a lawless land right in the midst of the rest of the world. maybe it comes from too much reading of other rv.netter's tales so similar to mine. but nothing about RVs seems regular.
RV (especially MH) ownership and travel puts one in this lawless land, or perhaps it is just the land of truckers, whose rules of business and practice are very foreign to the general public. it's like most people feel that regulation of car designs and competition among dealers for service makes the big country of auto motorists comfortable w/ their lot.
not so for us truckers/'specialty item owners.' within a few months of owning ours, i had the pleasure of learning, contrary to what the dealer said about class Cs, chevrolet dealerships would not align it. had to sit in tiny waiting area/office of a big rig alignment shop in an industrial park w/ martha and watch the in and out of mechanics reporting to and hobnobbing w/manager. 1st diagnosis: nothing seems wrong in test drive, even though steering wheel had become way off center. had them put it in work area, and 2nd report: lug nuts on both tierods were left completely loose by chevy or r-vision.
i don't foresee much changing until the number of RVers grows to a point where 1) safer vehicles and 2) better quality hardware and service can be had. better regulation and competition will result.
|---deleted stuff---| (i realize i am treading on thin ice with the whole 'woman driver' thing, so i apologize in advance.)burlmart - what are you thinking. You must have had a brain hiccup? :B
thanks for showing me text malfunction, gene. the parenthetical comment was intended to be something like
(i realize i am treading on thin ice with all this sounding like the whole 'just a woman driver' thing, so i apologize in advance, as that isn't my point.)
martha has never dented a vehicle or caused an accident. she is very careful. but as a passenger w/ other drivers, i've observed many males and females that seem to effortlessly 'feel' where the vehicle's perimeter will be in a maneuver. then again, i don't know their complete driving histories!
as you know, Martha drives for us since i have low vision. she does a good job, but is very carefully slow and makes many corrections when in proximity to things, even w/ our 4runner. i will watch her back it down the driveway and under its shed and get frustrated that it could be done more fluidly, but not w/ my eyes. so pretty sure our B+ is the upper size we could manage.
sounds like you have PP under control, and that it does require more diligence. how carefully cautious do you find yourself driving ths B+? how would you compare terry's handling it to yours? (i realize i am treading on thin ice with the whole 'woman driver' thing, so i apologize in advance.)
after 35k mi of louisiana trails, on an out of state trip, the simulators felt they could slack off on better roads, but a bump somewhere in missoure took out the right rear one.
since they all squawk at low speed and hinder tire pressure checks, we let our rig parade around au natural
we stayed at that park 1 nite when RV was still new, but a wicked thunderstorm kind of loused up the evening.
i am oblivious to big rig stuff. i read where dale mostly drives PP and you drive other vehicles. how different is it to drive the big rig?