You need somebody to figure out if a new "upper" can work with your "lower." Remember what I mentioned before. Most of these A/C units now seem to be sold as Upper (Rooftop, Compressor, Coils, etc.) and Lower.
That needs figured out before you do any shopping. My Guess, and it's only a Guess, that a Ducted system like yours requires a different Upper than the kind you mentioned. The Ductless one on sale, controls on the unit.
I can only suppose there could be thermostat/control issues too. If you could get an upper to match existing lower, and only needed a different thermostat, wouldn't that be a good fix?
i think you are spot on w/ this analysis. when the dealer said i needed a new upper after the compressor quit running during their diagnosis, they had a confused discussion as to if or how a dometic unit rhey had taken from a new rig could be used. the confusion and not brand new but nevertheless priced at $1000 installed all led me to decline the offer.
phil, we are always plugged into shore at a state park for 1 or 2 nites only. AND, we only do this when the louisiana heat and humidity aren't so present. so late sept thru early may. evrn so, there are times when a few hours, or all nite; AC runs are warranted,
in the may thru sept months, we give MH an exercise run to a city park or a restaurant, and the genset runs the AC for a couple hours. we definitely are not run-of-the-mill RVers,
tpi, you are making very important points on portable AC shortcomings that i kind of suspected.
we've been vacillating about continuing to RV mainly for the dogs' sake for maybe 5 yrs, or so. it's starting to look like we may just as well admit that we had our run w/ it. along with the RV, we are aging a bit, my retinitus pigmentosa is progressing in the lousy way that it does, and the dogs seem more relaxed in the backyard than in the RV whenbetween camground walks.
these standup ACs
we just looked at one, and as you say, j-d, it would take up space and be kind of gimmicky. although it could sit in the shower tub and maybe vent out bathroom fan vent, andthe 6' cord might workas is, or needa short heavy gauge extension.
am really going back and forth w/ taking it to pl or continue to keep hassling w/ this issue, then that, when we are really just not that into RVing after 11 yrs and w/ doggies (and us!) slowing down.
is this a simple unbolt old and insert new?
the 600315 is ducted and has analog wall duotherm themostat that also controls atwood gas furnace
AFAIK, the brisk air that is on sale at CW for $650 has controls on the AC itself and is non-ducted
i would prefer a cheaper unit, if any of you know of one. i do not eed 13500 BTUs, as rig is only 22 ft
i guess caps were OK
shop said compressor was running, so they ran a half hour or so.
after this, he said the compressor had stopped. so, just like we had determined after a good run, no cool air.
i think they mean there is no freon, unless they mean compressor is weak...but they say $1000 for install of new upper unit is verdict.
we hardly ever run the AC except to put a load on the genset which we only run to exercise the genset!
i want to look into one of those very compact wall AC units you see in tiny TTs like T@B. or some portable cooler. these might be useful for a few hours a year, at most. we go to local SPs late sept thru early may
a couple yrs ago, i disconnected the BIRD solenoid that allows both engine and coach batts to link for charging and emergency start.
since then, i have disconnect the pos term of the fully charged coach batt when RV is not in use. it tends to stay well over 12.7 V for weeks.
i do not disconnect the engine batt because of rough starts as computer relearns. i recharge it weekly, where it drops from a rest 12.8V to 12.65V each week.
both batts are identical 1 yr old costco type 78 (we do no dry camp, so no deep cycle needed)
i thought i would leave the house batt pos term hooked up with the house disconnect solenoid toggled STORE, of course. at that time, the house was 12.8V, and the engine was 12.73V
but only a few days later, the house is 12.7V and the engine 12.5V --i was expecting a little more drop than usual in the house, and i guess 12.8 --> 12.7V maybe confirms that.
but the engine dropped 12.73 --> 12.5V in just a couple days! remember, the only thing new for these couple days was leaving pos term of coach batt connected.
what could be going on?
i used sheetmetal to rebuild the front end of my molded plastic wheelwell liner w/ its curved-top and back wall. same wheel blew as yours, but ours took out propane pipes and spewed gallons of it on the hot smoking tire.
was able to do all repairs w/o jacking and removing duallys
well. i have taken in a lot of info from your help and related googles to know that i cannot diagnose this given my limited abilities in HVAC fixin', phobia of electronics i don't know, and low visual acuity. just attemptind to replacing the two caps exceeds what i am comfortable with.
my RV dealer says they'll diagnose for around $55 - a bargain to me.
my only question now is if this ducted sealed refrigerant penguin model 600315.321 unit is needing to be replaced, is there a simpler budget model AC that would easily fit in its place. less BTU, non-ducted w/ ceiling controls are fine for us - we seldom need AC but for summer exercise restaurant/park day runs. also, the wall duo-therm thermostat still needs to work the propane atwood furnace...so can the thermostat on wall still work atwood alone?
thanks for advice
i am appreciating the help...
without disconnecting brown wire from the silver RUN capacitor, can i still just run the AC and feel compressor tubes for heat/cold and determine something?
if so, from my pics, where should i put my hand on compressor or its tubes?
in the caps pic, what is the black thing in the upper left?
since the the blower fan works on hi and lo, is the black COMP/START capacitor w/ the red and white wire the more likely cap to be the prob if compressor is not right?
if i short the red and white wires atop the black capacitor w/ a plastic handle screwdriver, will it melt the wire connectors to te capacitor terminals?
also i am wondering what behavior would tend to indicate a control panel issue?
capacitors were behind the panel with wiring that is figure 4 in my previous post.
i can't really tell what is what here. i also did not see how to disconnect blower motor.
martha took these exciting pics. one of the labels has a duo-therm model #
i do not know where the capacitors are. in p1c #10 on the end of the compressor i see a small cylinder - is that one?
thx, ron, i will keep that in mind as i progress...
what seems to be called a 'freeze control sesor' dropped down and i do not know if i just caused it or if it happened in past.
it appears to need to be clipped to something related to the coils directly above it (loosely gleaned from some discussion group), so i put it on a copper coil loop ----(right, wrong?)
the 3 amp fuse from hre looked OK
a pic of thermostat