Bought a cheap HF 1/2 drill for the jacks. Went back a few months later to get a second battery and they still sold the drill but no batteries. It barely would run the jacks up and down so, I gave it away and got a Ryobi, 18v on sale with two batteries and a nice carrying case. It is also two speed so, has a low speed higher torque setting.
Seems like whenever I buy something cheap, I end up having to buy the right one anyway and have wasted money on the cheap one.
Would agree with around 24' being maximum for much off road. Clearance and overhang become an issue even at that length. Turning radius becomes a factor as well. Maneuvering gets much more difficult as the size increases. My quad cab Ram is 4WD but it won't go where me Jeep did.
Line the shelf with the rubber stuff and cut a piece and put it between each plate. Keeps them from chipping and breaking from bouncing. I even put it between metal bowls so they don't beat each other and chip and between pans to prevent wear.
Would agree that the market may not exist in U.S. for extreme off road TT's, at least not enough to make it profitable. On the other hand, for $100K or so, I would expect you could build or have built a pretty stout off road TT small, but with all the comforts.
I can't vouch for a 2000 but, on my 2006, 22GQ, I pulled the carpet that surrounded the bed. All vinyl underneath. There was a metal edge on the front but the screw holes were minimal. At the factory, they, generally, lay the plywood floor and then cover the entire thing with linoleum and then carpet where they want to. As said, lots of staples but, the holes are tiny.
One note, there was a hole at the end of the kitchen cabinet possibly made to access wiring that was covered with a metal plate. I cut a piece of vinyl from under the bed to cover that spot.
I am often amazed at people who say food particles will attract bugs. I am not contesting that but, have you ever looked at the ground in a FS campground? The bugs are already there. Maybe my grey water is different than most peoples, (although I doubt it), but it doesn't smell much. Certainly not like black water. Making a big, muddy puddle in the middle of a campsite is, understandably unreasonable. Running some grey water through a 50' hose off into the bushes in a dispersed campsite is not unreasonable in my opinion. There are a lot of desert plants that might appreciate the water.
There again, it is quantity and quality. In a high use CG with RV's dumping 100 gallon grey tanks it would accumulate pretty fast. In more remote areas with little use, it would be gone before the next camper got there.
Now, where did I put my Nomex suit?
The dealer could have mislead him and, many people just have no idea about towing capacities, weight limits, axle limits etc. It might be reasonable to tactfully bring up things like, that looks kind of heavy to me for your TV? The guy might be clueless and appreciate the information or, if he is like a lot of people will get defensive and angry.
If you give him information that he didn't have, that could increase his safety, he might be grateful. Then again, he has already purchased the unit and may not want to hear it.
On the Equal-I-zer and, others, I suspect, you will want to take off the WD bars if you are going to travel on real uneven terrain like off road. Most dirt/gravel roads should be fine but, extreme dips and humps put excessive strain on the bars. Going through a big dip, the bars are trying to lift the rear wheels off the ground.
My Nash, (Northwood), was wood frame with aluminum exterior. I bought it new and towed it many thousands of miles including a trip into the Canadian Arctic up the Dempster Highway which is 1000 miles up and back, (450 one way), of dirt road. It was heavy for a 24', (4400lbs UVW), but well built. After five years, I sold the Nash and bought a 30' Arctic Fox with two slides, (over 7000lbs UVW). Northwood builds their own frames as has been mentioned and my Fox has aluminum framing throughout the superstucture but, Northwood puts wood inside the aluminum square tube at attachment points so screws have something besides thin aluminum to bite into.
While I would not hesitate to take my Arctic Fox off the pavement, I would be a bit more careful because of the slide outs. Arctic Fox/Nash are four season and well built. They are designed for going off the pavement.
I've been through the factory in Oregon and am very impressed with the quality of the work.
Smith RV in Casper carries Northwood, (Nash/Arctic Fox. etc.), I bought a new Nash in '06 from them and was satisfied. Others will chime in but, I think if you stay at 30' or less you should be able to get into most NFS campgrounds. Some will say 25' but with a family of five that might be crowded.
Northwood TT's are built for the kind of camping you want to do.
Would agree with Passin Thru on the quality of the Arctic Fox. Would disagree with the statement, "it doesn't matter what tongue wt is". Equal-i-zer, and I think, Reese does too, have different hitches for different tongue/trailer weights. With Equal-i-zer, they are 600/6000, 1000/10,000, 1200/12,000 and 1400/14,000. Receiver hitches are rated for maximum weights as well and, too much tongue weight can put you over your TV's GVWR.
I would also recommend going by the sticker on the TV and TT for tire pressure. On mine the TV with E rated tires is 70 rear and 60 front, (loaded), and the E rated tires on the TT are according the sticker on the TT 80psi. I run my tires at those pressures and the set up is very stable.
I looked at the 30U and the 27T. I have a 2006 Ram CTD 2500. I ended up with a 29V which they don't make anymore. I liked the rear living area of the 27T and the 30U The 27T has very little wardrobe space but it does have the full 60X80 queen bed. You can't access the bathroom on the 27T with the slide in. The 30U has lots of wardrobe but the RV queen, 58X74 1/2. The 29V has the slide out wardrobe like the 30U and the full queen bed.
More specific to your question, I didn't get a 30U because of the hitch weight and the length. We go to forest service campgrounds and the extra length was a concern but, not as much as the hitch weight. I have two Arctic Fox brochures, one 2007 and one 2010. The weights are different in the two and, I am not sure why because, as far as I know, the TT's are the same. The unloaded tongue weight for the '07 is 1160, for '10, it is 1065. The GVW in '07 was 11,700 and in '10 it is 10,400.
My guess on the difference in GVW is that in '07 they included tongue weight and in'10, they went with just axle weight, (two 5200lb axles). The loaded hitch weight on my 29V is between 12-1300lbs. The 30U is 100-200lbs more dry. Most class IV hitches are rated at 1000lbs. The class IV on my Ram is rated at 1200lbs. I am pushing that. And, with that hitch weight and the other stuff in the truck like a cap on the bed, I am pushing my truck's GVW. I am not close on individual axle GWRs but am on the truck GVWR.
People who tow a 30U usually install a class V receiver. The overall weight of the 30U isn't a lot more than my 29V, (maybe 300lbs dry). My truck tows the weight easily and I doubt a couple of hundred pounds would be noticeable but, I do have a diesel. The hitch weight is the biggest problem for a 3/4 ton and a 30U. falconman was, no doubt, referring to loaded hitch weight. That's quite a bit for a 3/4 ton.
X2-3? on Equal-I-zer and Prodigy. Cruise easily with one hand, semi's passing, cross wind, whatever. Prodigy provides smooth braking from dry pavement to snow. Read the set up instructions on line on the Equal-I-zer website. The dealers don't always get them right but, once you have it set up properly, you will be very happy with the performance.