at an angle does help just a bit. What helps more is closer to the axles. The axles do still hold most of the weight, the also give most of the shake. If you can move them closer in, you will get less shake. You will NEVER never completely eliminate shake. (Well anything short of permanent setup on piers).
Well NASH (Northwoods MFG) is a very good quality product. However you was asking about a Dutchmen and a Keystone. BTW both are THOR products. Keystone is generally a "better quality" line than Dutchmen, but as I said, both are Thor, and we see more Thor products in for repair, than anything else.
On the above post you mention $20k is your spending limit. Did you look at any Jayco/Starcraft products? They are generally a bit better quality than Dutchmen and most Keystone. (Please no tongue lashing here). Im simply saying that we dont get too many Jayco products in for repair. Forest River stuff varies greatly, they have very low line stuff, and very high line stuff. Heartland is also a Thor product, but a general mid to high range product.
My job is not quite that good, but still a nice enjoyable (not too stressful) job. I am the delivery coordinator for an RV dealer. Which includes doing the walk thrus. I am considered a tech, and do some tech work when there are no sold get readys/walk thrus waiting.
Seriously though. Performing the walk thrus is the best job I ever had. Yes there are some nitpickers that expect a 20 yr old unit to be better than a new one, but basically most folks understand that the walk thru guy has no power to spend money on a unit. If they are not satisfied, I simply get the sales person to deal with money spending issues. Its the people I meet that makes this job the best job on the planet.
bman. Make sure you use an ONAN oil filter. Or Generac, if you have a Generac. Onan is real strict on the filters. Go back and read Dakota's post. He is right on the money. We get this many times every month at the shop. Wrong oil/wrong filter.
We sell Starcraft. I really like the quality. The only problem I see with the one you are considering is the factory warranty is about to expire now. The price is not that much cheaper than a new unit. Other than that. It sounds like a deal.
WOW, I still get her in my inbox. 3 of them everyday. Maybe she had a problem with her server. Or maybe your antivirus/spamware software is putting her in your spam box now. Either way, you should start getting her again soon I would think. If not, try doing as Jimhaz suggests.
See this is why we have a hard time at RV dealers. Everybody drops the ball sometimes, I hate it, but as humans, we all goof up. When that happens, the person who owns the unit that the repair center goofed up, is happy to share the bad news "anywhere/everywhere/every chance they get". ---- Although, when the service experience turns out great, the owner "never" wants to share the whole story. I mean, they might say everything went great, but will never mention any details. "Including names".
The model (like 26 BH) on TTs is the lenght of the box and floorplan (26 BH is a 26' box with a bunk house). The overall lenght is from tip of tongue to end of bumper. The tongue is usually 4'to 5' long, and from the back of the box to the outer end of the bumper is usually 6" to 1'. They usually do not add the spare tire (for some reason). So your 26 BH will officially measure 30' to 31' in total lenght.
As far as cover, well! Maybe your new trailer has a bit longer front nose, or maybe rear tail piece than your old trailer. Maybe your new trailer is a bit wider. Maybe your old trailer wasnt as long as your new one. Not trying to belittle you at all, Im just saying "looks can be deceiving" and you even mentioned that you never measured your old TT.
Hope you like the Launch. We are starting to get our first Autumn Ridge units to sell. They seem nice and sell good so far.
Well we have a 16K Reese slider on our F-250 shop truck. That hitch is always in extended (manuver) position. We tow 5ers daily that way. We tow around our lot, to/from our other shop, to/from either of our storage lots, and physically deliver to the customer or take/pickup from auctions.
In short. YES you can leave it extended, however, the truck will handle terrible. It is downright dangerous. It may sound crazy, but that extra 12" or so makes a HUGE difference in how the truck handles the trailer.
PLEASE, please, take the extra few seconds (minute) and slide your hitch forward.
either MH should pull your Jeep fine. I suggest you test drive BOTH motorhomes before you buy. IMO a class A is far better than any class C. A class A you sit up higher allowing better visibilty. Bigger tires means a bigger footprint on the ground,--fewer tire troubles. But that is just "my" opinion. By all means if you drive both, and like the "C" better. Buy that one. Dont take my (or) anyones opinion. Please drive them both
Heartland is an extremely difficult company for dealers to deal with (as far as warranty issues). However, that does not matter to the consumer.
Heartland has a very large range of product names and quality levels. Ranging from "as good as it gets" to "better off looking at craigslist".
Cyclone is a very pretty product with a lot of cosmetic detail. A very well thought out garage area, that will transform to about anything. Quality is not all that great --- not terrible either. A big problem we see with Cyclone is minor delam. Lots of cosmetic troubles. Some slideroom troubles. Rear gate has trouble shutting/sealing tight. Not too many tire troubles. Basically "IF" I was looking for a TH. I would likely choose a Cyclone. Even though they are heavy as WELL! And we get lots in for warranty repair. They are still a decent product, with the ability to adapt to just about any situation.
Older RVs present a problem with finding parts for sure. Most answers revolved around body parts (They are correct). Someone mentioned the detail stuff (again, right on the money). Dont forget the cockpit stuff also. (switches/buttons/ETC). What about trim/walls/furniture/appliances. Especially colors and designs. This stuff can be nearly impossible to find. Even windows and window treatments could take some aftermarket companies weeks to "try" to re-create.
The fresh tank is generally under the bed (In a class C) or in an area where heat from the furnace will find, therefore the fresh water tank will not freeze (as long as your furnace is working).
The waste tanks can and do freeze (if not heated). Then they can not be dumped (emptied) until the thaw out.
The windshield is glued on and remains tight and waterproof. The trim molding is just that. TEE molding! It is for looks and looks only. I would remove it. Then have a glass shop, or RV shop order you a new piece. It will come in a roll, and you will have to cut some off at the end. You buy it by the foot. A glass shop or RV shop will have access to the type of adhesive required to reattach the new molding.
Dont fret. The windshield IS still solid and sealed tight. No worries.
You do your own PDI while you are still looking at it on the sale lot. (Realize if this is a slim sale-the dealer may or may not fix what you find).
----You should look closely at trim pieces for fit/finish. Walls for bubbles/tears/ETC, Upholstery for stains/rips tears/discolor/ETC, open/shut ALL cabinets, drawers, doors - checking for smoothness of operation and how tight do the catches work. Open/close ALL windows AND blinds. -- Check mattress (especially if used unit) for excessive stains or cuts/tears. -- Look at flooring and ceiling for anything (water marks, tears, ETC).
----Go outside, look at the outermost corners of the BOTTOM of the sliderooms -- check for softness (which means water damage). Peak under the unit for excessive rust, oil leaks, ETC. Check tires for wear, age. Look at the INSIDE of the wheels for grease (possible wheel seal leak which could lead to many problems). Look at the roof if possible around all the seals.
----Now ask salesman to demonstrate operation of sliderooms. -- Sounds like a hassle, but you should be able to do all this WHILE looking at the unit. Likely it will consume 30 minutes. A GOOD salesman will be willing to allow you to do these things. (If he is not hiding something).
IF you find ANYTHING, Make a list of expected repairs and make sure the salesman writes up a proper "WE OWE". Both parties are to sign it. --- REMEMBER, if it is used and more than 3 or 4 years old. The dealer likely wont fix every single flaw. Some things do get "used" faster than other things, so do be TOO critical over small scratches, tears, ETC. I mean "Is it NORMAL usage, or EXCESSIVE damage"?
Give the dealer ample time to complete repairs and perform their own PDI. -- Now on delivery day. Do a quick check to insure your "hit list" has been addressed, then make sure you are shown & demonstrated how everything operates. This includes. Make sure the fridge is cold, water is hot, A/C works, furnace works, stove/oven works. -- Consider temps with furnace-A/C.
Yes OP carry on. As far as the post recommending to replace the entire roof. Yes that is even a better answer. Please bring it to my shop so we can do that for you.
OP a complete new roof is expensive. Depending on physical size. It would cost $5k to maybe $15k. However you can spot seal and reseal only so many times, then you absolutely must get a complete re-roof.
Replace as much as you want (or can afford to). Yes I am a hillbilly, maybe a redneck too. If it was my PUP, AND, the systems cranks up & down correctly (I did say IF IF IF the systems works correctly). I would just buy a few 2X2s and cut them "exactly" the distance from the top of the main frame-to the bottom of the roof (when raised), and place one at each corner when the roof is raised. I cant believe your Coleman doesnt have that already. My old Palamino came with aluminum struts that fit over the legs and under the canvas flaps.
Anyway. Good luck with whatever you choose. Just remember. If a cable breaks, the roof will lower either partway or completely. Cut some wood struts. Its a safety issue
I think a lot of times the NADA price is considering "perfect" condition. (or should I say NEAR perfect-since nothing is perfect from the factory). I know several of you are going to tongue lash me, but NO! your unit is NOT perfect. I promise you I could find something that I would need to do to anybodys unit, before it hits the sale lot. I also promise, there would be something that I would miss. ---- This is the reason there is such a difference in "values" from "selling it" to "buying it", according to NADA and even KBB (on the car side).