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 > Your search for posts made by 'chevyman2' found 13 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: No hot water when water pump is on.

There is one question left to answer. Im not familiar with the Winnebago TTs, however several Winnebago/Itasca class As have only 1 valve for the W/H bypass. If (by chance) this Winnebago TT has only one valve, the there is a check valve in the back of the W/H. (specifically the hot water outlet). That check valve is notorious for filling up with calcium and preventing hot water from flowing thru the lines, however the tank itself is filled with hot water. This particular case sounds more like an issue with (possibly) the pump itself. Check to see if you have a dirty vacuum screen on the inlet side of your water pump. (Big round thing between inlet line connection and pump itself). Also make sure the inlet/outlet lines are tight. Finally check the area, make sure the valve for the siphon hose (for winterize) is closed completely, and valve for siphon hose (from fresh tank) is open completely.
chevyman2 09/29/14 12:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Rv LP water heater . Worked once ..now doesn't seem to light

you can also try pulling the plug on the circuit board (upper right corner of W/H access area) check the electrical connection for cleanliness. Also the Thermocoupler might need re-adjusting. The clicker will try only 3 times, then defaults (times out). You can leave the switch on while trying that plug. (PS) it is the smaller plug on that board. Last but not least. You may need to adjust the airflow. (The pipe in front with all the holes in it)
chevyman2 09/21/14 09:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: water connection problem

OP did say he has a Cougar 5er. Yes you need to look at your city water inlet. Does it have a valve that says fresh water tank fill/city water/normal? (or something along those lines). If so, that is where the water is coming from. If not, then that "before mentioned" check valve is likely bad. You didnt mention if your 5er is brand new. If so, then there is an outside chance that your unit is plumbed wrong. (Yes the PDI should have caught that) but it is possible if new. Very unlikely, but possible.
chevyman2 09/21/14 08:51pm Beginning RVing
RE: winterization question

Well without viewing the plumbing on your particular model. There is "usually" 3 winterizing valves on newer class A MHs. 1 bypasses the W/H. 1 bypasses the water tank (or closes it off). The last one opens the siphon hose. If these are not clearly marked, then find your water pump--undo the plumbing hose on the inlet side of the pump, and fasten a siphon hose to that said inlet. Suck in antifreeze as required at that point. (Of course do try to bypass the W/H first) For more detailed instructions you can view several examples on You Tube, contact a dealer, contact Gulf Stream, ETC. Since you do need to drain all tanks and lines prior to antifreeze
chevyman2 09/21/14 08:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging issue with Xantrex 2000

All sounds normal to me
chevyman2 09/21/14 08:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Unable to get sanibel fixed under warranty?

we work on any unit. Most Rv dealers near us-though-only work on units they sell. We have to get MFGR approval prior to performing any service under warranty. Once approval is granted, we are allowed to charge the MFGR a reasonable labor bill. Parts are usually supplied by the MFGR, however, if we need to gather parts/supplies elsewhere, the MFGR pays the sublet. It is not as complicated as some express. Now keep in mind, there are 2 other RV dealers near mine. Either of them only work on their units, and are scheduling repairs 1 week out. We work on every make/model, and we are scheduling for the 3rd week of Nov. right now. Last thing to note is---RV parts can not be purchased by using VIN#. (Most parts anyway). They must have the number on the part itself. Realize, the 2 of us could order identical units right now (from the same dealer at the same hour), and several parts on mine would be different than yours. Good luck with your repairs
chevyman2 09/21/14 08:30pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater, Go out on me?

Could be a little insect mess in the gas line, or in the flue itself, you may have to clean the lines. If that is unsuccessful, then try pulling off the plug on the circuit board of the W/H and see if the contacts are clean. Go turn on the switch, then reapply the plug on the board. (BTW) do you have any 12 volt inside. If not, then check your fuses (if plugged in to shore power) or replace/charge the onboard battery (12 volt supply) if you are dry camping. (I know you said he has been staying in the unit for a few weeks, so I imagine you are plugged in to shore power.
chevyman2 09/21/14 08:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Finally got to take her out. Now come the questions.

yes everything you mentioned has to do with 12 volt operation. As "bsinmich" mentioned, if/when you find the coach batteries (check under the entry door step) you just might fix the problem. Also look for a battery disconnect switch. (Look over the entry door inside-over the dash cabinets-or inside every outside storage compartment-or by the entry door near the other light switches). If that disconnect is off, it will act like dead batteries. That could even cause generator problems too.
chevyman2 09/21/14 07:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide toppers and...

Yes I would have an RV shop replace the parts. If it is the fabric, it really takes two people. We actually use three people at our shop. Two to slide, and one to guide.
chevyman2 07/13/14 06:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I think we may be done now

Do I ever understand. The DW is struggling more and more with inner ear issues, which causes her to get very ill when riding (as a passenger) in a moving vehicle. However a few years ago we discovered that she does much better when driving. Our TT just frieghtened her silly trying to pull it. We now have a PUP. We have a mid-size SUV with a V8 and this fairly larger size PUP. She drives it all the time and is relieved. (Luckily my health is still decent and I have no problems setting up/tearing down the PUP with her help). I think downsizing your rig "or" getting a permanent/lake site somewhere just might work for you. Seriously, please do whatever you think is best for you. If you end up staying in Motels. Thats OK too. We did that for about 4 years till we decided to try a PUP. Whatever you do. Motel, lake lot, or downsize. I certainly wish you the best, and please be safe at all cost.
chevyman2 03/16/14 09:06pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Disney raises ticket price

Well this is hard for me to reply, because I worked at an amusement park for a couple seasons. The one I worked at had 3000 employees every day the park was open. And consider at (my) park (although Disney is a bit different here), most of the admissions any given day was season pass holders. So in that aspect. The park was not making any real big dollars on a given day, but add up all the operating days and the $10 burgers, ETC. Then yes the parks make big money. IMO the admission (and especially gifts and concessions) are way too high. but they do give you an experience and thrills that leave you talking. I dont see myself going to Disney anytime. Probably not any parks, but maybe SDC. I just cant swing the fees these days.
chevyman2 02/23/14 10:54pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Interesting trip to say the least

Yes please keep the pics comin in. due to $$$ I had to put mine away late Aug. Looks like it may be June before I get her back out. Its all good though Keep campin as often as you can.
chevyman2 02/23/14 10:46pm Truck Campers
RE: Lawnmower Racing

Dont know really. My guess would be to try MAV-TV. That is a TV station that televises all different brands of racing. I think if anyone would have a schedule, MAV will. I assume it is mavtv.com
chevyman2 11/22/13 09:12pm General RVing Issues
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