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Forum
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RE: Green to the RV scene 2013 Coachmen Freelander
Plan on taking a couple hours to take delivery on your new unit. Don't let the excitement rush you!!! Look over EVERYTHING with a fine tooth comb. Ask about a caulk or sealant maintenance program on the exterior. Some dealerships offer this service. Many manufacturers require you to inspect and or recaulk every six months. Verify the manufacturers instructions and follow them vigorously. Having the dealership conduct this service provides you piece of mind and a paper trail for any possible warranty issues in the future. Many rigs have internal leaks that arent visible until the damage is done. I cannot stress the importance of this issue enough.
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chrisjpr
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02/05/13 04:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Resealing a VW Rialta Roof, Need Advice
Looks like a good place to use Eternabond.
This was my first thought as well. But after seeing the pictures I dont think Eternabond would be a good idea. It would be too visible from the ground and would not look nice down the sides of the rig. I gotta admit, this is a tricky one. I am a painter by trade so I know all the ins and outs of sealants. I would stay away from silicone. Stick with a urethane based butyl. There are several products that are non-yellowing.
Any Products you suggest?
My thoughts is that anything that cannot flex with the two connecting side will crack. I think what happened is the two pieces on either side of the crack flex and bend independent of one another so I need a sealer that both looks good on the side, but can flex with the motion and not crack... I thought tape.
Eternabond tape would be a good fix but would look awful.
I will check on a sealant. I think OSI makes it. Urethane based non yellowing and extremely flexible.
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chrisjpr
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01/29/13 06:41pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Resealing a VW Rialta Roof, Need Advice
Looks like a good place to use Eternabond.
This was my first thought as well. But after seeing the pictures I dont think Eternabond would be a good idea. It would be too visible from the ground and would not look nice down the sides of the rig. I gotta admit, this is a tricky one. I am a painter by trade so I know all the ins and outs of sealants. I would stay away from silicone. Stick with a urethane based butyl. There are several products that are non-yellowing.
Any Products you suggest?
My thoughts is that anything that cannot flex with the two connecting side will crack. I think what happened is the two pieces on either side of the crack flex and bend independent of one another so I need a sealer that both looks good on the side, but can flex with the motion and not crack... I thought tape.
Eternabond tape would be a good fix but would look awful.
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chrisjpr
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01/29/13 06:39pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Looking to buy used Class C...need input please!
I think you would be fine with that engine. I have multiple cargo vans with that engine. Each one is loaded to the max and tows a trailer. My guys are nothing short than hard on them. It is bullet proof and cheap to work on. I feel it will have plenty of power. I personaly would not think twice about it.
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chrisjpr
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01/28/13 12:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 1983 Mallard 260
WelomE Aboard, Missy!
We had an aluminum-roofed Holiday Rambler of that 1983 vintage. Our roof was four or six panels. They were installed with a sealant in the joints, then riveted through to the frame and/or the front and rear end caps. Then there was a tape over the joints. The tape wasn't the quality that today's Eternabond(.com) is. I removed the old tape and re-did every seam with the EB tape. A good price on EB is bestmaterials.com
X2
X1000
Eternabond is the bomb! Do this to ALL the joints. Stay ahead of the leaks. Dont wait until it is leaking.
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chrisjpr
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01/28/13 11:56am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Resealing a VW Rialta Roof, Need Advice
Looks like a good place to use Eternabond.
This was my first thought as well. But after seeing the pictures I dont think Eternabond would be a good idea. It would be too visible from the ground and would not look nice down the sides of the rig. I gotta admit, this is a tricky one. I am a painter by trade so I know all the ins and outs of sealants. I would stay away from silicone. Stick with a urethane based butyl. There are several products that are non-yellowing.
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chrisjpr
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01/28/13 11:52am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: California SMOG related question - 1983 Jamboree
Hello fellow RV'ers. Feels pretty good to say that. :C
I have a 1983 26 ft. Jamboree with a Ford 460 that failed smog. This motorhome is new to me, so I did a full tuneup and replaced the passenger exhaust gasket. It runs much better now, but I was told it didn't help and it looks like vacuum leaks. I also discovered that stomping on the throttle will cause a stall, but I slowly go to full throttle and it will pull pretty well. Idle is a bit rough.
From what I have read, it seems that this year/model engine is prone to drying out the gaskets between the carburetor, EGR plate/spacer and manifold. That leads to cracking and vacuum leaks.
I have thought of doing a leak test with brake cleaner, but truth be told, I don't have a problem just changing out those carb./spacer gaskets since it is a known issue. What does concern me is that I also read that the Holly carburetor on this model RV can be really hard to tune and leak prone. Since I have to take off the carb. to replace the gaskets, now would be the time to either rebuild myself or purchase a rebuilt. If this carb. is a pain to work with, I would lean toward paying a rebuild service, but $200 or more is nothing to sneeze at.
The questions I hope someone with experience can answer are as follow.
1.) Is my carb. with less than 60K miles on it likely to need a rebuild?
or
2.) Would you just replace the carb gaskets and expect it to pass smog?
Thanks for any all help offered.
Jose
I also have a Ford C with California emissions with only 50,000 miles. Its an 85'. The carburator is a Holly 4180, which I believe is what you have. My rig was running poorly as well so I rebuilt the carb with no luck. I have rebuilt many carbs with good luck but found this particular model to be very fussy. I finally spent $500.00 and bought a factory remanufactured one. Bolt and go. The rig now runs awesome.
Where did you get your carb?
I got it from my local auto parts store. Actually, the Ford dealership in my home town installed and purchased it. I cant find the paperwork as to what company actually did the factory rebuild. There are several and the price range was vast when I researched them. I found some to cost over $700.00. Each parts store will have a company they work with. Shop around. I wanted a new one but Holley no longer makes this model.
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chrisjpr
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01/25/13 12:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: California SMOG related question - 1983 Jamboree
Also, the sudden stalling when mashing the throttle is caused from a bad accelerator pump.
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chrisjpr
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01/24/13 08:28pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: California SMOG related question - 1983 Jamboree
Hello fellow RV'ers. Feels pretty good to say that. :C
I have a 1983 26 ft. Jamboree with a Ford 460 that failed smog. This motorhome is new to me, so I did a full tuneup and replaced the passenger exhaust gasket. It runs much better now, but I was told it didn't help and it looks like vacuum leaks. I also discovered that stomping on the throttle will cause a stall, but I slowly go to full throttle and it will pull pretty well. Idle is a bit rough.
From what I have read, it seems that this year/model engine is prone to drying out the gaskets between the carburetor, EGR plate/spacer and manifold. That leads to cracking and vacuum leaks.
I have thought of doing a leak test with brake cleaner, but truth be told, I don't have a problem just changing out those carb./spacer gaskets since it is a known issue. What does concern me is that I also read that the Holly carburetor on this model RV can be really hard to tune and leak prone. Since I have to take off the carb. to replace the gaskets, now would be the time to either rebuild myself or purchase a rebuilt. If this carb. is a pain to work with, I would lean toward paying a rebuild service, but $200 or more is nothing to sneeze at.
The questions I hope someone with experience can answer are as follow.
1.) Is my carb. with less than 60K miles on it likely to need a rebuild?
or
2.) Would you just replace the carb gaskets and expect it to pass smog?
Thanks for any all help offered.
Jose
I also have a Ford C with California emissions with only 50,000 miles. Its an 85'. The carburator is a Holly 4180, which I believe is what you have. My rig was running poorly as well so I rebuilt the carb with no luck. I have rebuilt many carbs with good luck but found this particular model to be very fussy. I finally spent $500.00 and bought a factory remanufactured one. Bolt and go. The rig now runs awesome.
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chrisjpr
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01/24/13 08:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Seeking opinions on what Class C YOU own/want
One piece front nose cap is a must. I also would never buy a white rig again. Over time it ambers, while the plastic trim and mouldings retain their color. Go with the full paint option.
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chrisjpr
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12/30/12 06:13pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Flex Seal
I tried the Rustolem brand version of this product. Its not worth to seal a butt crack with. Stick with Eternabond.
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chrisjpr
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12/30/12 06:08pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: There Used To Be A Lot More Activity On The TC Forum??
I opened a Facebook account a few years ago. Found I did not like it but you can not delete your acct.......:M
Oh yes you can. Can't remember how I did it, but I am a recovering facebook person. :) Felt GREAT!!
After a few months of various people "liking" me, I had enough. Search the FB site using the word delete. You can do it too. :W
John
You can only "appear" to delete your account.
Facebook still keeps a record of it.
I'm pretty sure that you could re-activate your original account if you wanted.
I know this from experimentation with their platform.
You actually can permanently delete your account. You have to submit to have it deleted. It takes 14 days for it to actually transpond. In the meantime your account stays deactivated. The only reason I know this is because I just applied to have my account deleated two days ago.
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chrisjpr
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12/30/12 01:36pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: mobile internet for RV
Do not, let me repeat, do not go with a hot spot device from Sprint. I spent months fighting with them, exchanging devices, and upgrading devices only to come to the simple conclusion that their hotspots and service is crap. I spent another month tryig to get out of the contract on the basis that they failed to provide a product and service that was useable. I have had their phones for 12 years and am semi-happy with their service. Their mobile hotspot was an absolute joke.
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chrisjpr
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12/29/12 02:45pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: There Used To Be A Lot More Activity On The TC Forum??
Its always the same questions, same posts, and same answers.
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chrisjpr
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12/26/12 11:00am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Red max pro on roof and cab?
Chrisjpr if you are referring to RMP/Zep it will not last long on horizontal surfaces like a roof or hood but on vertical surfaces it should last a year or two. We did recoat a year later but when washed it still had some shine and it is parked outside year round.
RMP/Zep is just a short life (1-2 years) acrylic plastic clear coat and not a wax based solution. Now if you go through a car wash and you used the tire cleaner option you will start removing the RMP/Zep quickly. We just wash with like Dawn, Ajax, etc that is setting at the kitchen sink.
Actually I was referring to vertical surfaces. I wash with mild dish soap as well. The shine and brilliance does not last on my rig and has to be recoated often.
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chrisjpr
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12/02/12 07:50pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: New 2013 Lance 855s Truck Camper Video
Why do they not install the larger fridge in the 855s?
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chrisjpr
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12/01/12 06:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Red max pro on roof and cab?
Beware. The wax does not last. My rig looks stunning after I apply several coats. Then after a dozen rains and a few weeks in the sun it looses all of its shine and brilliance. I typically reapply the product two times a summer.
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chrisjpr
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12/01/12 06:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: mpg on 454 engine
1985 year model. the engine has 60.0000 miles. does anybody has made a fuel injection conversion?
Yes or at least years ago there were sources for conversion to TBI but money/function wise I would not consider the hassle. It will not change MPG from my understanding.
Ditto. Not worth the money or trouble. I also concur with 7-8 mpg
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chrisjpr
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11/18/12 01:07pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Researching our first motorhome
Whatever you get, I'd recommend a rear bedroom with RV Queen bed that has access on both sides of the bed.Climbing over your partner to get out of bed in the middle of the night is not fun. Access on both sides of bed also makes making the bed much easier. A flat screen TV mounted for comfortable viewing in bed would be good too. Most rigs are mounted on Ford E-450 chassis with Triton V-10 engines. Some rigs have better, more leak proof roofs and front caps without front windows that leak and more substantial materials and assembly quality. Fridges, Roof A/C units, furnaces, water heaters, stoves, etc., are mostly the same brands regardless of RV manufacturers. Most Class C's ride and handle like a box truck unless you invest in suspension upgrades. No RV is perfect they are a truck full of electric and propane powered appliances. Adequacy of house batteries and charging systems is important as is arrangement and size of galley and restroom shower facilities.
x 2 for me. I HATE our corner miniature queen bed. This is a MUST on our next rig.
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chrisjpr
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09/04/12 05:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Shiny RV with Red Max Pro (pics)
I haven't read all 37 pages yet, but the one question I have is: How would someone get to the front cap of a Coach House. They call it a class C, but I call it a B. I have sat on my patio cover (all wood) but that ain't to smart of a thing to do. Any response/help would be appreciated.
I do the top half of the nose cap from the roof, laying on my stomach reaching down. Then I do the lower half with a step ladder, positioned in front of the rig.
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chrisjpr
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09/04/12 05:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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