The DEF is only to reduce NOX emissions. Pre DEF systems did this by delaying injection to reduce peak pressures, and pumping a lot of exhaust back into the engine with the EGR. The DEF and SCR allow lower EGR flows, and more advanced timing, which puts the peak pressure where it makes more power, not less NOX. The DEF system then treats the exhaust to break down most of the NOX, to be below EPS levels. Advancing timing also helps with soot production, as the fuel has longer to burn in high temp / high pressure of the engine, before being shot out into the relatively low pressure exhaust system. Remember, more power for the same fuel is the same as less fuel for the same power.
I do a test pull with the IBC in my 16 Silverado before trips. Set it to max gain, and squeeze the tabs together at about 25 (residential street). Just about plants your face in the steering wheel. 18k fusion 405 5th wheel TH.
Sounds like a setup issue - if switching controllers fixed it.
I have clay in the front yard, and back the boat over it to get it out and put away. I was rutting it something fierce. Ended up digging out 8 inches or so, putting in a bit of gravel to level it, and a 5 inch slab of cement, with 1" rebar running end to end. I park my diesel dually on the "path", and no wear / cracking at all. Clay heaves as it dry's out and gets wet again, which is why I went with rebar.
The first time you get stuck without cell coverage, and without something large enough to drag you out (winch, another truck, etc), the cost difference becomes meaningless. What most people don't realize is once you are not in flat country, snow and ice actually becomes a PITA. Having actually put chains on and off in the Sierra's in slush, I can tell you it is money well spent. If you are never going to get more then a few truck lengths off dry pavement, it is a near total waste. If you plan of covering the sides of the trailer in mud from time to time - or tow on a beach, 4 go tires are better then 2.
The loft ladder rides in the loft, 2-3 inches past of the lip, the bunk ladder rides on the floor. We have a removable table for the couch, that rides wedged upside down between the bottom and back cushions of the couch. All the garage pillows and blankets ride on the bottom bunk, pressed up against the top one. If someone is crashing on the couch, their bedding is in the loft when "up".
You need the ACTUAL trailer weight, and the actual truck weight with and without the trailer (rear axle of the truck is what we want). The goal is the rear axle of the truck supports 20-25% of the trailers actual total weight.
I have a repeater on my TH. 2.4 external to connect with the parks wifi, 5ghz & 2.4 internal. The 5GHZ doesn't get more then 30 or 40 feet beyond the trailer, I have the power on the 2.4 limited to barely get outside the trailer. Always use different channels internal and external. I have hit access points several hundred feet away on the 2.4.
I air my g614's to 30 psi at pismo, and still got stuck, closer to 20 and it was fine. Truck was 15-20. Pull a hard turn and the anchor (trailer) will dig in. I ended up making U turns of about 300 feet..
Remove the AC cable from your power center going to the TV/ SAT and attach it to the AC output of the Inverter / Charger. Run a new AC cable from the old breaker to AC input on the I/C. Run DC power cables from the I/C to your existing batteries.
When you have generator or shore power the I/C sill charge the batteries in parallel with your current charger / converter, and pass power to the TV/SAT. When there is no AC power, the I/C will generate AC for the TV/SAT, pulling power off the batteries. Figure 1 amp hour of batteries consumed for every 10 watt hours used. There is also power wasted when the loads are off by the inverter's load sense. Add at least 1 battery to your current bank, and go for it. 100 watts or more of solar on the roof would be nice as well.
California requires a class A for all trailers over 10k. There is the exemption with the Restriction 41 for RV 5ers between 10k and 15k. All non rv 5th wheel trailers over 10k require the class A. I was stopped several years ago on the Grapevine with my 40' TH, just to check my license class (I have a class A CDL).
Is your electric water heater on? I am currently running my 50 amp trailer off a 30 amp cord, with 2 1500 watt heaters on thermostat's, and a third on low (500 watts). In theory all 3 are 3500 watts when running, and the 30 amp service is 3600. Add in another 50-100 watts for the battery charger, and I am maxed out. The reality is this never happens. I have been using the same 30 amp 50 foot cord to power the trailer in storage over the winter for years. If I am going to use it in storage (at the house) over summer, I drag out the 50 amp cord for the ac's.
I would run 2 portable heaters on low (with thermostats) to keep the interior above freezing. If you want it warm to occupy, propane is needed, unless you get more power to the trailer.
I can and do run both AC's off a 30 amp service. The lake does not have 50 amp, so 100+ degree days need both to stand a chance of sleeping. I have to turn off the converter (battery charger) and run a minimum of lights, fridge on propane no microwave or electric water heater. Biggest issue is starting one ac, and letting it run a min before starting the other. Once they start cycling, it gets exciting. I do usually trip the 30 amp breaker once or twice a trip.
On an empty truck, they do little to nothing good. It is possible to remove some of the metal spring leafs to soften the ride on the empty truck, then use the airbags to support the load. On a loaded truck they level the truck, reduce the bounce off the overloads, and help with the front to rear rocking from a trailer.
They do not increase load capacity of anything, all they will do is allow you to drive level while overloaded.
I have R4tech of my 07 dually and 08 2500, they both ride better then my 16 dually, and almost as well as my Yukon.
The only time I have ever had an airbag fail was installer error - the airbag was to close to the u-bolt, and rubbed a hole in it.
If you suffer from "pogo stick effect" you need a ping tank, 0.5 to 1 gallon tank plumbed into each airbag with large diameter line. This supports the exact same weight, and dampens the pressure spikes on bumps.
Regroovable means the rubber under the tread grooves is thick enough to be carved down another 32 of an inch or two. I feel in the real world you are better off with thicker tread areas to make the tires less prone to punctures from rocks and glass. It has nothing to do with the sidewall.
What if anything does it do? If you hold the off button is there a noise from the fuel pump? When you push start does it make any sound at all?
On mine there are 2 fairly large power wires coming off the left corner of the generator, and leading to the batteries. Do you have these? Are they both connected?
If it snows much, the top of the slide will collect it, and it can damage the top lip on the slide when you retract it if not cleaned off first. I have never been able to get all the ice off without risking either a gravity experiment or damage to the slide roof. I ended up packing the roof inside with towels once retracted. Now that I have the toppers, I have noticed less heat radiating down through the slide roof, little to no morning frost, rain, snow etc. If in a hot humid climate, the AC still makes the slide roof sweat overnight, but the slide seal takes care of that. There IS puddleing on top of the slide topper, and it does make a mess down the side of the slide when closing it. Some snow sticks as it is rolled up - on occasion, not very often. Ice either breaks up into fragments, or comes off in slabs onto the ground. I added them after owning the trailer for a few years, and believe they were a good investment, I will have them on all future units as well.
Look at the hardware store for a device called a "kill-a-watt".
They are available at most big box stores ~20 bucks.
Unplug the trailer, and using a 15-30 amp adapter plug the power cord into the device, and it into the wall. There are several displays available, the watt one is that you want. As said above, the startup draw can be 2-3 times running power, so but more generator then you think you need.
I haven't looked at generators in ages, but Yamaha has a line of inverter generators that could pull power off the starting battery to help cover surges, this may allow you to get a smaller generator then one that does not.
The reason I say to use the kill-a-watt is the converter is also pulling power, as well as any other 120 volt electronics. A generator that surges to 1.5 kw may not be enough if the converter is pulling 2 or 3 hundred watts, and has a poor power factor.
I would guess the Dicor will set at the edges of the eternabond tape, and a small distance under it (1/4 to 1/2 inch I would guess). I assume the eternabond tape would prevent it from curing just like the container it is shipped in. Given enough time (weeks / months) in warm temps it is likely to cure through. Just remember, the eternabond tape isn't attached to anything, just goo at this point. If you can't clean it all off and start over, another top coat of Dicor will at least seal it, if not make the mess larger later.