I remember they were "THE" thing 10 years ago, fairly low torque limits were their downfall.
"diesel over electric trucks".. Gas over electric is the chevy volt, I always thought a light diesel along the lines of the VW diesel (pre scandal) would net even better MPG's.
Maybe a RWD large diesel engine, electric generator/starter, CVT, automatic clutch, electric motor, driveshaft, axle.. Add a reasonable battery pack for regenerative braking and to help launches.
Stop and go on electric / battery. Launch on electric, with the diesel backing it up (and CVT kicking in once moving). Cruse with the electric disengaged using the CVT to power the axle direct from motor. You won't need a massive CVT, just 200-300 lb feet through it, the electrics can handle the rest.
I run a Xantrex Freedom SW 3012. I have the main power cable go to the generators transfer switch, then a subpanel with the AC's, converter, and Electric side of the water heater. There is a pair of 30 amp brakers going to the I/C. The I/c powers the factory panel with everything else on it. 3kw running 6kw surge 150 amp charger. With the wired remote you can program it with the incoming power braker, and the charger will power share with downstream loads - turn down the charger when you are making coffee, thru it back up when you are done - automatically.
I have a 100 amp converter on the sub panel for those times when I only have 20 amp service, and need to do double conversion to keep the coffee pot, toaster, microwave, and/or hair drier happy at the same time.
All duramax's in 3/4 and 1 ton pickups are 6.6...
It is likely a brand new rebuild. If it was tuned, the Allison will have ALOT more wear and tear then the odometer shows, and may be in need of a rebuild as well.
If it a 04.5, the "overheating" fix is fairly cheap, you put the air filter and plumbing off a LBZ (06.5-08). The 04's (LB7) were gutless by todays standards.
Batteries need time to charge. Solar panels have the time most days so they are an effective charging method. We find a 100 watt panel and two batteries adequate to keep us going indefinitely. Just lights, fridge, fan, furnace. Another 100 watts would be required if we watched TV or used a microwave oven.
There is ONE place I camp that makes sence for wind - Pismo beach. There is more then enough wind, on an almost daily basis to run turbines. 10-02 mph is the norm winds, then it dies overnight a lot. I prefer to run the genset in the AM to hit the batteries, then a cheapie Costco 2k inverter generator during the afternoon. Sound isn't an issue, as there are quads , sandrails, and motorbikes everywhere. At some point I will put solar on the trailer, then the afternoon generator sessions will end..
Most of the wind turbines are in the 200-400 watt range, and while nowhere near as loud as an open frame generator, needing to be on top of a mast you can't hide it behind something. They also require a stiff breeze to do anything, and a moderate wind to be anywhere near peak output. Solar is about as loud as the wind blowing past the RV, and does nothing in the dark, shadows, and very little in the rain.
Like Golden_HVAC said, hook the 50 watt directly to the batteries. If the batteries are full, the controller on the 200 watts will throttle them down, and with the propane detector, radio memory, and who knows what other phantom loads the batteries will be fine. Ignore the voltage on the panels (as long as it is above ~15 volts) and go with the AMP rating. Being used assume ~80% of that rating as a max, likely less by the time you mount it to the roof and wire it.
The 1/2 gallon tank is actually a good idea. They are usually used as ping tanks, when you hit a bump the pressure in the bag spikes, the tank gives it a place to go so the ride is not as harsh. I am going to put one on each side when I get the bags on my new truck.
If you are looking for permanent, changing the waste plumbing from tanks to direct to sewer can eliminate draining tanks, and the chemicals that go with them. A change from RV throne to a stick and brick one is about all that is needed inside, the rest is plumbing underneath.
I have used those in the past, you severely reduce the hitch rating, but if your trailer is under 2500 / 250 lbs with a hitch rated for at least 5k, I wouldn't worry about it. I would use the shortest stinger I could find and be careful on bumpy roads...
Almost all UPS's use gel cells not because they are the best, but because they don't spill. I wouldn't charger a gel faster then c/10, prefer c/20 or more. All lead/acid batteries off gas when charged, far more when charged fast. A FLA will bubble - add water. A AGM will attempt to recombine, but if you hit it hard enough it will off gas, and I have never seen one that you can add water. Gel cells will cause bubbles in the gel, and where there is a bubble there is a permanent loss of capacity.
35400.6. (a) Subdivision (a) of Section 35400 does not apply to a
fifth-wheel travel trailer that does not exceed the following
(1) Forty-eight feet in length from the foremost point of the
trailer to the rear extremity of the trailer.
(2) (A) For a fifth-wheel travel trailer with a single axle, 38
feet in length from the kingpin to the rearmost axle.
(B) For a fifth-wheel travel trailer with two or more axles, 40
feet in length from the kingpin to the rearmost axle.
(b) A manufacturer of a fifth-wheel travel trailer described by
subdivision (a) shall include in the delivery documents the
information necessary to register that fifth-wheel travel trailer,
including its overall length pursuant to paragraph (1) of subdivision
(a) and a declaration that its length is in compliance with
subparagraph (A) or subparagraph (B) of paragraph (2) of subdivision
(a). The dealer may reject acceptance of the fifth-wheel travel
trailer if this documentation is not provided.
Empty, It will pull fine. The only real issue is if you load the trailer close to its max of 5k, and put a bunch of people and carry on stuff in the burb. Keep it reasonable and you have a good combination. I would take the trailer home, on the way stop at a truck stop and weigh it (with a full tank of fuel). That will give you an idea of how much capacity you have left in the burbs axles.
I have a Trail Air up front and the centerpoint suspension out back, and onboard air for both. A little viair 90 compressor starts at $66 on Amazon, add 10-15 feet of 1/4 inch air brake tubing, a pair of fittings, and a power switch, fuse, and some wire and you can have onboard filling of the trail air.
Forget the sidewalls. All that matters as far as the suspension goes is how much thrust does it take to make the tire slide sideways. On ice and snow it takes almost nothing to slide the tire, on a hot summer day on clean cement it takes a lot. The only thing providing the thrust is the suspension. The sidewall flex is only an indication of how much material is in the tire's sidewall.
The gas is enough to move the trailer at a decent speed. I would be looking at the 3500 for payload VS the 2500 for comfort. You will not have to much trouble running 65 on the flats, less uphill - but the downhill can be exciting. Diesels have exhaust brakes that gas motors can only dream of. If you are thinking of upgrading in a few years to a 5er or TH I would be thinking dually at the moment. Far overkill for what you plan on doing, but no upgrade needed later. If you are going the dually route, may as well do the diesel while you are at it - makes dragging large heavy trailers up and down mountains far nicer - and much lower stress doing it.