California requires a class A for all trailers over 10k. There is the exemption with the Restriction 41 for RV 5ers between 10k and 15k. All non rv 5th wheel trailers over 10k require the class A. I was stopped several years ago on the Grapevine with my 40' TH, just to check my license class (I have a class A CDL).
Is your electric water heater on? I am currently running my 50 amp trailer off a 30 amp cord, with 2 1500 watt heaters on thermostat's, and a third on low (500 watts). In theory all 3 are 3500 watts when running, and the 30 amp service is 3600. Add in another 50-100 watts for the battery charger, and I am maxed out. The reality is this never happens. I have been using the same 30 amp 50 foot cord to power the trailer in storage over the winter for years. If I am going to use it in storage (at the house) over summer, I drag out the 50 amp cord for the ac's.
I would run 2 portable heaters on low (with thermostats) to keep the interior above freezing. If you want it warm to occupy, propane is needed, unless you get more power to the trailer.
I can and do run both AC's off a 30 amp service. The lake does not have 50 amp, so 100+ degree days need both to stand a chance of sleeping. I have to turn off the converter (battery charger) and run a minimum of lights, fridge on propane no microwave or electric water heater. Biggest issue is starting one ac, and letting it run a min before starting the other. Once they start cycling, it gets exciting. I do usually trip the 30 amp breaker once or twice a trip.
On an empty truck, they do little to nothing good. It is possible to remove some of the metal spring leafs to soften the ride on the empty truck, then use the airbags to support the load. On a loaded truck they level the truck, reduce the bounce off the overloads, and help with the front to rear rocking from a trailer.
They do not increase load capacity of anything, all they will do is allow you to drive level while overloaded.
I have R4tech of my 07 dually and 08 2500, they both ride better then my 16 dually, and almost as well as my Yukon.
The only time I have ever had an airbag fail was installer error - the airbag was to close to the u-bolt, and rubbed a hole in it.
If you suffer from "pogo stick effect" you need a ping tank, 0.5 to 1 gallon tank plumbed into each airbag with large diameter line. This supports the exact same weight, and dampens the pressure spikes on bumps.
Regroovable means the rubber under the tread grooves is thick enough to be carved down another 32 of an inch or two. I feel in the real world you are better off with thicker tread areas to make the tires less prone to punctures from rocks and glass. It has nothing to do with the sidewall.
What if anything does it do? If you hold the off button is there a noise from the fuel pump? When you push start does it make any sound at all?
On mine there are 2 fairly large power wires coming off the left corner of the generator, and leading to the batteries. Do you have these? Are they both connected?
If it snows much, the top of the slide will collect it, and it can damage the top lip on the slide when you retract it if not cleaned off first. I have never been able to get all the ice off without risking either a gravity experiment or damage to the slide roof. I ended up packing the roof inside with towels once retracted. Now that I have the toppers, I have noticed less heat radiating down through the slide roof, little to no morning frost, rain, snow etc. If in a hot humid climate, the AC still makes the slide roof sweat overnight, but the slide seal takes care of that. There IS puddleing on top of the slide topper, and it does make a mess down the side of the slide when closing it. Some snow sticks as it is rolled up - on occasion, not very often. Ice either breaks up into fragments, or comes off in slabs onto the ground. I added them after owning the trailer for a few years, and believe they were a good investment, I will have them on all future units as well.
Look at the hardware store for a device called a "kill-a-watt".
They are available at most big box stores ~20 bucks.
Unplug the trailer, and using a 15-30 amp adapter plug the power cord into the device, and it into the wall. There are several displays available, the watt one is that you want. As said above, the startup draw can be 2-3 times running power, so but more generator then you think you need.
I haven't looked at generators in ages, but Yamaha has a line of inverter generators that could pull power off the starting battery to help cover surges, this may allow you to get a smaller generator then one that does not.
The reason I say to use the kill-a-watt is the converter is also pulling power, as well as any other 120 volt electronics. A generator that surges to 1.5 kw may not be enough if the converter is pulling 2 or 3 hundred watts, and has a poor power factor.
I would guess the Dicor will set at the edges of the eternabond tape, and a small distance under it (1/4 to 1/2 inch I would guess). I assume the eternabond tape would prevent it from curing just like the container it is shipped in. Given enough time (weeks / months) in warm temps it is likely to cure through. Just remember, the eternabond tape isn't attached to anything, just goo at this point. If you can't clean it all off and start over, another top coat of Dicor will at least seal it, if not make the mess larger later.
The fuse in the charge line (truck sending power to the trailer) is somewhere between 20 and 40 amps, the voltage drop from the trucks fuse box to the trailer batteries limits you to as well. There is a 0% chance you can run the trailers AC off the trucks charge line, not counting the trucks alternator puts out far less then 150-200 amps at idle that is needed by the inverter.
If you are going to plug the trailers power inlet into an inverter powered off the trailers batteries you will want to disable the onboard converter while you are doing it.
You may get 10-15 minutes off a single battery running the AC, but without putting it in a lot faster then 20-30 amps, the truck will only give you another minute or so of runtime. Then the trailers battery will be dead - no lights, no water pump, no propane detector, no fridge, etc.
Google finds many g614 failures, not a lot recent. Judging by the hits I would say most of the suspect tires should have aged out by now.
I have 6 g614's on my trailer, and am VERY happy. High pressure on the highway, low pressure at Pismo, scrubbing in tight places. Never an issue, they loose less then 5 psi a year from 110 - cold.
I remember they were "THE" thing 10 years ago, fairly low torque limits were their downfall.
"diesel over electric trucks".. Gas over electric is the chevy volt, I always thought a light diesel along the lines of the VW diesel (pre scandal) would net even better MPG's.
Maybe a RWD large diesel engine, electric generator/starter, CVT, automatic clutch, electric motor, driveshaft, axle.. Add a reasonable battery pack for regenerative braking and to help launches.
Stop and go on electric / battery. Launch on electric, with the diesel backing it up (and CVT kicking in once moving). Cruse with the electric disengaged using the CVT to power the axle direct from motor. You won't need a massive CVT, just 200-300 lb feet through it, the electrics can handle the rest.
I run a Xantrex Freedom SW 3012. I have the main power cable go to the generators transfer switch, then a subpanel with the AC's, converter, and Electric side of the water heater. There is a pair of 30 amp brakers going to the I/C. The I/c powers the factory panel with everything else on it. 3kw running 6kw surge 150 amp charger. With the wired remote you can program it with the incoming power braker, and the charger will power share with downstream loads - turn down the charger when you are making coffee, thru it back up when you are done - automatically.
I have a 100 amp converter on the sub panel for those times when I only have 20 amp service, and need to do double conversion to keep the coffee pot, toaster, microwave, and/or hair drier happy at the same time.
All duramax's in 3/4 and 1 ton pickups are 6.6...
It is likely a brand new rebuild. If it was tuned, the Allison will have ALOT more wear and tear then the odometer shows, and may be in need of a rebuild as well.
If it a 04.5, the "overheating" fix is fairly cheap, you put the air filter and plumbing off a LBZ (06.5-08). The 04's (LB7) were gutless by todays standards.
Batteries need time to charge. Solar panels have the time most days so they are an effective charging method. We find a 100 watt panel and two batteries adequate to keep us going indefinitely. Just lights, fridge, fan, furnace. Another 100 watts would be required if we watched TV or used a microwave oven.
There is ONE place I camp that makes sence for wind - Pismo beach. There is more then enough wind, on an almost daily basis to run turbines. 10-02 mph is the norm winds, then it dies overnight a lot. I prefer to run the genset in the AM to hit the batteries, then a cheapie Costco 2k inverter generator during the afternoon. Sound isn't an issue, as there are quads , sandrails, and motorbikes everywhere. At some point I will put solar on the trailer, then the afternoon generator sessions will end..
Most of the wind turbines are in the 200-400 watt range, and while nowhere near as loud as an open frame generator, needing to be on top of a mast you can't hide it behind something. They also require a stiff breeze to do anything, and a moderate wind to be anywhere near peak output. Solar is about as loud as the wind blowing past the RV, and does nothing in the dark, shadows, and very little in the rain.
Like Golden_HVAC said, hook the 50 watt directly to the batteries. If the batteries are full, the controller on the 200 watts will throttle them down, and with the propane detector, radio memory, and who knows what other phantom loads the batteries will be fine. Ignore the voltage on the panels (as long as it is above ~15 volts) and go with the AMP rating. Being used assume ~80% of that rating as a max, likely less by the time you mount it to the roof and wire it.