I had a smallish breaker panel, like this, with 2 double breakers. I put in 20/30 breakers, with the 2 30 amp circuits going to my inverter/charger and main panel, the other 2 (20's) the electric water heater and one of the AC units. My purpose was to keep those off the inverter. In your case, a pass though to your main panel with an extra circuit for the compressor..
Diesel will be heavier, and more of a low rumble VS higher pitch on the gas units, the most fuel efficient, if there is water in the fuel, you will get stuff growing on the bottom of the fuel tank, Fuel is not available *everywhere*, can be refueled out of gas cans or in bed fuel tanks. The propane tends to suck tanks dry, the least efficient of the bunch - but can last more or less forever in the tanks without going bad, and is the cleanest burning (least buildup of anything in the engine). Gas, if left alone goes bad in carbs and fuel lines, etc, readily available anywhere, can be refueled out of gas cans or in bed fuel tanks. Toyhaulers (usually) have a fuel station for the toys, this can also refuel the genset if needed.
warm air hits cold surface. It means there is not enough insulation for the temps you were in. Warm air got there and moisture condensed, but couldn't heat the surface enough to stop further condensation.
You have a fraction of an inch of air that is part way between exterior temps, and interior temps. This is where your sweating is occurring. Either reduce airflow to the area, and move the problem to the closet doors, or increase airflow and attempt to prevent it from happening in the first place.
real workl a 5-6kw generator is all you *need*. 1.2kw is 10 amps, so a 50 amp generator (single 120 feed) is 6kw. The 50 amp input on your trailer is 2 120 volt 50 amp feeds, so a 6kw generator is only 50% of the *max* power, but real world 5kw runs 2 ac's with power to spare. Most of us are camping (non ac) on ~2kw, parallel 2kw or a 3kw gets an AC, parallel 3k gets almost everything. It is far cheaper to heat both air and water with propane then burn gas to make electricity to make heat.
A 30 amp to 50 amp *dogbone* style adapter will take you from a reasonable generator to a 50 amp trailer input. If you really want all 50 amps, you are looking 12kw+ generator.
11,400 is what you want.
California DMV page
Pickup (CVC §471)
A motor truck with a manufacturer's GVWR of less than 11,500 pounds and an unladen weight of less than 8,001 pounds, which is equipped with an open box-type bed less than nine feet in length.
•Pickup truck does not include a motor vehicle, otherwise meeting the above definition, which is equipped with a bed-mounted storage compartment commonly called a utility body.
•California Code of Regulations (CCR) §150.04(a) further defines pickup trucks:
"Pursuant to California Vehicle Code §471, any motor vehicle, except a motorcycle, motorized bicycle, or motorized quadricycle, with an open box-type bed not exceeding nine (9) feet in length is by definition a pickup."
•Examples: Ford Explorer Sport Trac, Nissan Frontier, and other similarly designed vehicles.
The following trucks are not pickups:
•Trucks with an open box-type bed that weigh more than 8,000 pounds unladen or exceed the manufacturer's GVWR of 11,500 pounds ("varied" BTM)
•Trucks equipped with a bed-mounted storage compartment unit commonly called a "utility body" ("utility" BTM)
•Trucks with a body type other than an open box bed (stake, flatbed, dump, etc. BTM).
A pickup with a camper:
•Temporarily-attached is a commercial vehicle and the camper is a load.
•Permanently-attached meets the definition of a housecar (CVC §362) and may be registered as a passenger vehicle.
I have NEVER heard of someone having issues, but the possibility is there, and in this cash strapped state...
Depending on outside temps, the furnace can pull 40-60 amp hours a day (with snow everywhere). Where you are going to winter is an important variable in this equation. Will you ever have hookups, how often. Batteries can be short cycled (not charged to 100%) a few times, but it doesn't take long to damage them (10-15 cycles).
The TV and computer are going to be expensive loads (power demand wise).
You mean 5% SOC, right? If you're only using 5% of your banks capacity at a time, wow! Also, I wouldn't consider 5% to be a cycle. IMO, 80% and below would be a cycle. Hey MEX! I WAS going to go LI 5 years ago. If it was only about $1000 cheaper then, I would be running that now instead of the L16's. Price is always an issue.
5% DOD, 95% SOC, they are designed for 10 days without sun to 50% DOD/SOC. It is a single battery, ~225AH if memory serves, running a load 24/7 365.
The big selling point of the agm's for me was 0 maintenance - ever, and the fact that we have a solar cathodic protection system that is 10 years old, that puts it at over 3500 (shallow) cycles. And it is still going strong. The extent of maintenance on it is cleaning the panels in the fall, once a year, that's it. It is designed with a 5% DOD during summer, in snow season the controller *should* hit the low voltage cutoff when the panels are buried. So there is the occasional deep cycle, and during overcast weather in winter it may not get into float all the time. I know of no FLA's that can go for years being ignored, and enjoy it.
I have a onboard onan 5500, and a 3000 watt "FREEDOM SW INVERTER/CHARGER". The 3kw I/C charges at (adjustable) up to 150 amps the 2kw at 100 amps. I have the lcd control panel which allows me to program max input from the AC line, so when running off a smaller power source (then 30 amp) it will limit the loads and charger to not trip the braker / overload a small generator. Temperature compensated charging etc.. I usually run the onan until the charger is under ~60 amps, then switch to a 2kw portable inverter/generator, the Costco one. It is quiet, and far cheaper then Blue or Red, and uses less then 1/3 the fuel as the onan for low loads.
There are a few random (and rare) reports of melted fronts on 5ers, I have never seen one on a TT. I have seen MANY melted mudflaps on dpf equipped trucks around here. If it touches the exhaust, or is inline it to a few inches behind the tip - you are likely to have discoloration at minimum, if not disfigurement.
I run 150 amps into my 3@85AH batteries. My batteries are rated for C5 charge rate - 1250+ amps. The charger starts tapering within minutes, but that is from 150 amps, they are still pulling 80-120 for quite a while. I would *guess* a 50-90 takes an hour to an hour and a half - ~125ah. I am getting solar this spring to attempt the 90-100 without running the genset.
I run arb's in my truck. Open diff 99.99% of the time, when I am having slip - or know I will - flick a switch and 100% locked side to side. I lock both diffs (4x4) towing my TH in sand at Pismo. Most of the time locking the rear is enough.
VEHICLE COMBINATIONS - BASIC LAW
35401. (a) No vehicle combinations may exceed a total length of 65 feet. (See diagram: "California Legal Trucks")
(b) (1) A combination of vehicles which consists of a truck tractor, a semitrailer, and a semitrailer or trailer, may not exceed 75 feet, if neither the semitrailers nor the trailer in the combination of vehicles exceeds 28 feet 6 inches. (See diagram: "California Legal Doubles")
NUMBER OF VEHICLES IN COMBINATION
21715. (a) No passenger vehicle, or any other motor vehicle under 4,000 pounds, shall tow more than one vehicle, except for a tow dolly. (b) No motor vehicle under 4,000 pounds unladen shall tow any vehicle weighing 6,000 pounds or more gross.
465. A "passenger vehicle" is any motor vehicle, other than a motortruck, truck tractor, or a bus, as defined in Section 233, and used or maintained for the transportation of persons. The term "passenger vehicle" shall include a housecar.
362. A "house car" is a motor vehicle originally designed, or permanently altered, and equipped for human habitation, or to which a camper has been permanently attached. ...
410. A "motor truck" or "motortruck" is a motor vehicle designed, used, or maintained primarily for the transportation of property. (A pick up truck meets this definition.)
DRIVER LICENSING for DOUBLE TRAILERS - CALIFORNIA RESIDENTS
12804.9. (b) ..., any applicant for a driver's license shall be required to submit to an examination appropriate to the type of motor vehicle or combination of vehicles the applicant desires a license to drive:
(1) Class A includes the following:
(A) Any combination of vehicles, if any vehicle being towed has a gross vehicle weight rating of more than 10,000 pounds.
(B) Any vehicle towing more than one vehicle.
15278. (a) A driver is required to obtain an endorsement issued by the department to operate any commercial motor vehicle that is any of the following: (1) A double trailer. (2) ...
To apply for a commercial driver license, see this DMV web site: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/commercial/commercial.htm.
DRIVER LICENSING for DOUBLE TRAILERS - NONRESIDENTS
12502. (a) The following persons may operate a motor vehicle in this state without obtaining a driver's license under this code: (1) A nonresident over the age of 18 years having in his or her immediate possession a valid driver's license issued by a foreign jurisdiction of which he or she is a resident, ....
(b) Any person entitled to the exemption contained in subdivision (a), while operating, within this state, a commercial vehicle, as defined in subdivision (b) of Section 15210, shall have in his or her possession a current medical certificate of a type described in subdivision (c) of Section 12804.9, which has been issued within two years of the date of operation of that vehicle.
15210. (b) (1) "Commercial motor vehicle" means any vehicle or combination of vehicles which requires a class A or class B license, or a class C license with an endorsement issued pursuant to paragraph (4) of subdivision (a) of Section 15278.
In summary, nonresidents may tow two trailers with a non-commercial license IF their base state allows it. IF the vehicle is commercial, the driver would also need a valid medical certificate per 12502 CVC.
For a valid medical certificate, see this DMV web site: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/dl/dl_info.htm#dl51medical.
I am looking at solar for my trailer, the 2 panels I am looking at are 62x32 190 watt panel and 65x39 255 watt panel. Both are under a buck a watt.
For smaller -30 amp output or less- which is between 400 and 450 watts A Kid charge controller. For bigger systems A Classic Lite 150 charge controller. up to 96 amp output, max about 1.4kw.
Current prices on the panels are $190 and $241, the controllers are $280 and $499. Both controllers can be paralleled (with another of the same) for more output. So if you start with the kit, and exceed 30 amps you can add another one off the same array and run up to 800-900 watts, or two of the classics and run out of roof space.
I am going to start with 2 of the 255's and a classic. Other then the electric water heater, space heaters, and ac's that should cover my electric loads.
Found a (maybe) good starter solar setup, HERE $140 for a 160 watt panel and charge controller - 88 bucks in shipping isn't THAT bad. Still under $230.
My slides cover one of the 4 heater vents, other then heating the underside of the stove (in the slide) and burning propane - there is no real downside I have found from running the heater underway. In my case the smaller space with the slides in made it cycle less, and the 60 mph constant cold wind down the sides made it cycle more. The biggest issue you are going to run into is running the heater for 24 hours without plugging in will deplete most any battery bank, and the charge line of the TV is usually a joke.
Putting the plants in the bathroom with a few hot water bottles, which can be reheated (pour them into a pot) on the stove without using batteries. Other then that stay at campgrounds and plug in at night, oil filled heaters tend to hold heat for a long time, maybe one of those in the restroom would help as well.
The propane tank has ~100-120 psi of fuel, the disconnect 0.5 psi. If the bbq is not designed for that pressure (check the regulator you use when using a tank, see if it lists its output pressure) it will barely light. Some use a high pressure external regulator, and have a second regulator built into the flame control - so they are not compatible with the low pressure off the rv.
Farm equipment sits outside for months at a time untouched. Contruction equipment sits outside for months at a time untouched. Cars sit in dealers lots for months at a time untouched. RVs sit in dealer lots for months at a time untouched.
Why would anything else with a battery in it not be able to sit in the cold with no maintenance, provided it is disconnected, for months at a time also?
Every year mine is left November to April disconnected & untouched. Recovers in no time upon being reconnected.
When I lived on a farm, we were jumpstarting equipment all the time after it sat. When I bought my Yukon from CarMax, the battery was dead (it had been sitting months) and had to be jumpstarted. Rv's sitting on dealer lots sit without batteries in them. None of these have a propane detector, little indicator lights, and dc side of the converter draining a few amp hours a day off them. Truly disconnected I would go more then 3 months - from a full charged battery to recharging it. AGM's disconnected can run 6 months and be near 90% charge - the self discharge 1-3% a month, wet cells 3-20% a month. Higher temps cause higher rates, lower temps, lower..