You can sterilize the grey after dumping, pour 1/2 gallon of bleach (far more then needed, but no open bottles to store) in each grey tank after dumping, and fill with water, let set overnight, then dump (not into septic) at a dump station. Kills anything in the grey tanks, and you can dump in forests again (where legal).
Diesel motors pre 2007 are pre DPF and DEF, all my 07 classic (06 motor) has is the cat and egr / pcv. I got 7.x mph towing my 40' 18k TH in Wyoming at 75, I usually get 11.x at 58 on I5 in California. Speed and hills kill mpg's. If you are getting much less then 10 with a newer diesel loaded, you are in regen, stop and go, uphill, flying low, and / or something is very wrong.
I had them added to the super slide and bedroom slide on my trailer. No more standing water when retracting the slides, just a light film of moisture (think condensation). No more sweeping pine needles off the slides, or snow / ice, they all fall off the edge (yes, it makes a mess) when I close the slides. On the fridge I didn't bother getting the topper, as it is under the awning. In the summer the slides are also cooler, as the topper acts like a permanent shade tree that follows you around. I got the toppers with the metal starter ~6 inches long, so the fabric is not in the sun when closed.
I have a 55 amp charger set at 14.4 volts intended to run off a Costco 2000 inverter generator. My idea was to supplement my existing batteries and existing 3kw inverter. I do not yet have solar on the trailer, but when I do the plan is to do similar to you - except with double conversion VS sync AC like you. Your syncing to the generator makes you somewhere in the 30% more efficient. You already have 600 watts of solar, which can easily make up for the generators shortfall on the cycling AC, and likely support most of the other loads when it is not. While the cost of the inverter is steep VS the cheapies, you already have everything else installed and operating - I would consider this project more of a way to add 12-14 hundred watts of solar without the roof real-estate when loads require it VS how to make solar back up an undersized generator.
Slap a meter on the battery. If it is 16+ volts, pull it and go to an auto parts store, and have them test it. if it is between 12 and 16 volts retest the leads on the fridge. If it is less then 12 volts, look for blown fuses, loose or disconnected wires at he battery, converter, and DC power center. You may also have a battery disconnect switch, check for and make sure it is NOT disconnected (the converter is charging the battery).
No, they are RV outlets. Most (all?) home depot outlets are intended to be put in a box, RV outlets are direct wired, and have covers - covering the wires and connections. They are also designed to be mounted directly to the wall covering. Stick and brick outlets screw top and bottom into the mounting box.
Pull one before going to the store and look at it. I have never seen them at HD / Lowes / ACE / Orchard Supply / ETC..
With 70-80 psi inside the tire, the less then 8 psi difference from sea level to 20,000 feet - amounts to nothing. Tire pressure on the sunny side of a parked car to the shade side will change the internal pressure more. At least monthly, (weekly towing) check the pressure before driving, and air up to your preferred pressure. Never let air out - it leaks out not in. Unless someone overinflated the tire you should never need to release air.
I have a 3kw inverter with a built in transfer switch. My main incoming power cable goes to a 8 breaker sub panel, 2 for the ac's, 2 for the Inverter / Charger (I/C), 1 for the electric water heater, 1 for the factory 100 amp converter. The other 2 are spare at the moment, 1 will be a garage AC at some point.
The 2 going to the I/C charges at up to 150 amps, as well as powers the factory main breaker panel. This means when I have either shore power or generator power I have everything working, running off batteries I loose both AC's and the electric water heater - everything else works as normal. I am installing a 15 amp transfer switch so I can run the main AC off the inverter, for now using a Costco 2000 generator to top off the batteries (55 amp charger about maxes it out) but soon solar..
Anyone else notice it is not a 5th wheel hitch? It is now riding on a ball, which makes it some form of gooseneck, which now requires safety chains. For those 10-15k California people, the RV endorsement no longer applies, as it is now a gooseneck RV not a 5th wheel RV trailer.
The roofs are so "dirty" with AC's, vents, shower domes, antennas, etc. The slight angle of attack you are getting, and the fairly low airspeed don't amount to much. You are looking at about 0.0807 lbs. per cubic foot of air at standard temperature and pressure. Assuming the trailer is 8.5 feet wide, 4 inches higher at the rear then front, and you have 100 mph wind over the top. That's 528,000 linear feet per hour (3600 seconds), or 146.667 linear feet per second. 8.5 feet across times 4 inches tall is 2.831 feet of displacement * 146.667 linear feet per second. So you are vertically displacing 145.141 cubic feet per second total, or about 33.5 lbs of air per second. The axles are over 50% of the way back, so over 50% of that occurs in front of the axles, and in theory is added to the TV.
The reality is there is a huge low pressure at the front, far larger then the slope of the trailer, random high and low pressure spots above and below the trailer down it's length, and an 8.5 by 10 foot box (tv and trailer)is shoving 12466 cubic feet of air out of the way, and dragging it back behind it - per second (at 100 mph air speed). The 1000+ lbs of air you are pumping at each end per second has far more to do with anything then the 30 something the roof is moving.
My basic rule for anything that rubs: If it is rusty, paint it. If it is shiny, lube it. I use White lithium grease on kingpins, hitch balls, equalizers, slide parts (not the rams), pretty much all zerc's...
I opted to install one of these. The transfer switch is between the inverter output, and my subpanel on the inverter input. It is set up so if I have shore / generator power, the ac is powered off that, if I don't, it switches the AC to the inverter. My subpanel powers the inverter's 2 30 amp inputs, both ac's, the electric water heater, and my 100 amp converter. The converter is for when all I have available is 20 amp service, I can use double conversion and use the microwave, toaster, coffee pot, and the girls can use the hair drier all at the same time - not for long, but other then the hair drier everything is quick, and the batteries recover at 100 amps.
Costco has a nice 2k inverter generator with a Yamaha engine for 2/3 the cost of the Honda 2k. We have 2 Honda 2k's at work, and I have a Honda 3k and the Costco 2k inverter generator at home. The Hondas ARE quieter side by side, but 20 feet away no one can tell which one is running.
In most cases you want 4-8 Gigs of ram, and 2-4 cores in the cpu. The higher clock rate the better. Going beyond 3.4 GB of ram requires a 64 bit os. Once you hit 8 gigs of ram, start spending money on a SSD.
*Most* computers don't *need* more then 3-4 cores, assuming windows and the video chews up 1-2 cores (peak) that leaves 2-3 cores for everything else. Unless you are going nuts with multi threaded software, or only have 2 cores, turn hyper threading off on Intel cpu's.
The machine I am sitting in front of has 64 gigs, and 6 cores. I am currently bouncing between 7% and 13% cpu, and using 6.2 Gigs of the ram. Task manager says 2 cores are 0-1%, 3 of the other 4 are bouncing between 5-10%, the last one is actually doing some work. I also have a 480 gig RVD3X2-FHPX4-480G. This disk is beyond stupid fast. I routinely benchmark 1.2 Gig / second rear and .8 Gig / second write.