I would guess the Dicor will set at the edges of the eternabond tape, and a small distance under it (1/4 to 1/2 inch I would guess). I assume the eternabond tape would prevent it from curing just like the container it is shipped in. Given enough time (weeks / months) in warm temps it is likely to cure through. Just remember, the eternabond tape isn't attached to anything, just goo at this point. If you can't clean it all off and start over, another top coat of Dicor will at least seal it, if not make the mess larger later.
The fuse in the charge line (truck sending power to the trailer) is somewhere between 20 and 40 amps, the voltage drop from the trucks fuse box to the trailer batteries limits you to as well. There is a 0% chance you can run the trailers AC off the trucks charge line, not counting the trucks alternator puts out far less then 150-200 amps at idle that is needed by the inverter.
If you are going to plug the trailers power inlet into an inverter powered off the trailers batteries you will want to disable the onboard converter while you are doing it.
You may get 10-15 minutes off a single battery running the AC, but without putting it in a lot faster then 20-30 amps, the truck will only give you another minute or so of runtime. Then the trailers battery will be dead - no lights, no water pump, no propane detector, no fridge, etc.
Google finds many g614 failures, not a lot recent. Judging by the hits I would say most of the suspect tires should have aged out by now.
I have 6 g614's on my trailer, and am VERY happy. High pressure on the highway, low pressure at Pismo, scrubbing in tight places. Never an issue, they loose less then 5 psi a year from 110 - cold.
I remember they were "THE" thing 10 years ago, fairly low torque limits were their downfall.
"diesel over electric trucks".. Gas over electric is the chevy volt, I always thought a light diesel along the lines of the VW diesel (pre scandal) would net even better MPG's.
Maybe a RWD large diesel engine, electric generator/starter, CVT, automatic clutch, electric motor, driveshaft, axle.. Add a reasonable battery pack for regenerative braking and to help launches.
Stop and go on electric / battery. Launch on electric, with the diesel backing it up (and CVT kicking in once moving). Cruse with the electric disengaged using the CVT to power the axle direct from motor. You won't need a massive CVT, just 200-300 lb feet through it, the electrics can handle the rest.
I run a Xantrex Freedom SW 3012. I have the main power cable go to the generators transfer switch, then a subpanel with the AC's, converter, and Electric side of the water heater. There is a pair of 30 amp brakers going to the I/C. The I/c powers the factory panel with everything else on it. 3kw running 6kw surge 150 amp charger. With the wired remote you can program it with the incoming power braker, and the charger will power share with downstream loads - turn down the charger when you are making coffee, thru it back up when you are done - automatically.
I have a 100 amp converter on the sub panel for those times when I only have 20 amp service, and need to do double conversion to keep the coffee pot, toaster, microwave, and/or hair drier happy at the same time.
All duramax's in 3/4 and 1 ton pickups are 6.6...
It is likely a brand new rebuild. If it was tuned, the Allison will have ALOT more wear and tear then the odometer shows, and may be in need of a rebuild as well.
If it a 04.5, the "overheating" fix is fairly cheap, you put the air filter and plumbing off a LBZ (06.5-08). The 04's (LB7) were gutless by todays standards.
Batteries need time to charge. Solar panels have the time most days so they are an effective charging method. We find a 100 watt panel and two batteries adequate to keep us going indefinitely. Just lights, fridge, fan, furnace. Another 100 watts would be required if we watched TV or used a microwave oven.
There is ONE place I camp that makes sence for wind - Pismo beach. There is more then enough wind, on an almost daily basis to run turbines. 10-02 mph is the norm winds, then it dies overnight a lot. I prefer to run the genset in the AM to hit the batteries, then a cheapie Costco 2k inverter generator during the afternoon. Sound isn't an issue, as there are quads , sandrails, and motorbikes everywhere. At some point I will put solar on the trailer, then the afternoon generator sessions will end..
Most of the wind turbines are in the 200-400 watt range, and while nowhere near as loud as an open frame generator, needing to be on top of a mast you can't hide it behind something. They also require a stiff breeze to do anything, and a moderate wind to be anywhere near peak output. Solar is about as loud as the wind blowing past the RV, and does nothing in the dark, shadows, and very little in the rain.
Like Golden_HVAC said, hook the 50 watt directly to the batteries. If the batteries are full, the controller on the 200 watts will throttle them down, and with the propane detector, radio memory, and who knows what other phantom loads the batteries will be fine. Ignore the voltage on the panels (as long as it is above ~15 volts) and go with the AMP rating. Being used assume ~80% of that rating as a max, likely less by the time you mount it to the roof and wire it.
The 1/2 gallon tank is actually a good idea. They are usually used as ping tanks, when you hit a bump the pressure in the bag spikes, the tank gives it a place to go so the ride is not as harsh. I am going to put one on each side when I get the bags on my new truck.
If you are looking for permanent, changing the waste plumbing from tanks to direct to sewer can eliminate draining tanks, and the chemicals that go with them. A change from RV throne to a stick and brick one is about all that is needed inside, the rest is plumbing underneath.
I have used those in the past, you severely reduce the hitch rating, but if your trailer is under 2500 / 250 lbs with a hitch rated for at least 5k, I wouldn't worry about it. I would use the shortest stinger I could find and be careful on bumpy roads...
Almost all UPS's use gel cells not because they are the best, but because they don't spill. I wouldn't charger a gel faster then c/10, prefer c/20 or more. All lead/acid batteries off gas when charged, far more when charged fast. A FLA will bubble - add water. A AGM will attempt to recombine, but if you hit it hard enough it will off gas, and I have never seen one that you can add water. Gel cells will cause bubbles in the gel, and where there is a bubble there is a permanent loss of capacity.
35400.6. (a) Subdivision (a) of Section 35400 does not apply to a
fifth-wheel travel trailer that does not exceed the following
(1) Forty-eight feet in length from the foremost point of the
trailer to the rear extremity of the trailer.
(2) (A) For a fifth-wheel travel trailer with a single axle, 38
feet in length from the kingpin to the rearmost axle.
(B) For a fifth-wheel travel trailer with two or more axles, 40
feet in length from the kingpin to the rearmost axle.
(b) A manufacturer of a fifth-wheel travel trailer described by
subdivision (a) shall include in the delivery documents the
information necessary to register that fifth-wheel travel trailer,
including its overall length pursuant to paragraph (1) of subdivision
(a) and a declaration that its length is in compliance with
subparagraph (A) or subparagraph (B) of paragraph (2) of subdivision
(a). The dealer may reject acceptance of the fifth-wheel travel
trailer if this documentation is not provided.