| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: How much are you willing to ?
Ford says you can handle a 5th wheel trailer GVWR of 16,000 if your truck is 2WD or 15,700 if it's 4x4. There's a lot of trailers that you can tow with your F250. You'll also be much happier towing a 5er in high winds than your TT.
I agree,towing a 5er is much easier pound for pound compared to bumper pull.
The mfgrs ratings are very conservitive, so up to those,your truck easily handles it.
|
da.bees
|
05/17/13 10:37pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Sorry for another tire post, but this has different twist.
Tandem axles arent ever referred to as "duals". Dual mean two tires on the same axle and thats the way it is described in all the DOT literature.
That is correct.
|
da.bees
|
05/17/13 10:27pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Air Conditioner Issues
I agree the short cycles are hard on the compressor and needs rectifying.
I'm afraid the time delay will not be completly satisfactory although an improvement. Make sure the fresh air intake is complwtly closed. Otherwise when the compressor cycles off the air passing over the sensor rises and siginals compressor on.
I like the idea of a divorced t-stat. Some but not all pack unit t-stats have a screw for factory adjustment of differential. I would not ordinarily suggest messing with the screw but you sound like you know better than get yourself in trouble. Also,it sounds like the t-stat is probably bad anyway. While looking for the adj screw,get all the mfg info and #s off the t-stat and see if a wholesale hvac supply house will give you a price to order a replacement. I take it from some terms that you used that you are in/have been in the business,otherwise you might get someone who is to order it. If the price is unreasonable,you still have the divorced option.
|
da.bees
|
05/17/13 10:15pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: brake issue
I would check the application for the axle rather than # on present seal when buying new seals. It's possiable your seals are in good condition but wrong type.
Since they are sometime confused,it is worth mentioning Dexter E-Z lube hubs vs Bearing Buddies.
One might be instructed by an E-Z Lube owner to add new grease until old grease comes out around outer bearing. That is correct for E-Z but if the unsuspecting diy has Bearing Buddies,grease will likly go past seal and into drum.
|
da.bees
|
05/17/13 09:08am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: AC isn't cooling
Compressor and compacitor. Works. Compressor gets really hot. Just replace entire unit?
Maybe yes,maybe no. If the run capacitor or compressor is bad the compressor will not run but will get very,very hot. If the compressor is getting stubborn and needing a hard start kit added,it will not run but get very,very hot. Very,very hot is that after 30 minutes it will blister you hand. A run capacitor or hard start kit are both cheap but no way should you invest money in new compressor.
I will break rank and say don't go to RV shop or auto shop. Your ac is just a home window unit with bottom discharge or a small version of a commercial roof top unit like used to cool your 1 or 2 story office. Auto mechanics don't have access to parts or manuals and rv shop employees are jack of all trades. Call the guy who takes care of your home and/or office. He may never touched a rv ac before but take my word,when he sees it he will understand more than rv and auto techs combined. Chances are if you offer to take your trailer to thier office,you get a price break. Good luck.
|
da.bees
|
05/16/13 11:35pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Wire up 220V dryer in 5th wheel?
Could I just tap into the RV load center and put another sub panel in the laundry room?
You should use equal or larger wire between load center and sub panel as in shore cord. You never want wire with less capacity than the breaker protecting it. For economy and ease of routing wire,I would locate sub as close to load center as possiable.
From load center to sub is wire same or larger than shore cord. Sub is fused to match dryer and wire from sub to dryer matchs breaker. Some of that is mute if dryer pulls max shore cord is rated for.
|
da.bees
|
05/16/13 11:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Water in Fuel
I agree that you should catch what you drain in a clear container to see if there realy is water in it. The WIF sensors are well known to go bad and trigger a false warning. If you indeed find water,the best action is draining the tank. A diesel shop can seperate water from fuel making it good as new. Your plan of draining will surfice if you drain as soon as the alarm detects water. No,I would not drive 50 miles much less 200 after the indicator says water in fuel.
Do not use an additive unless it clearly says it is suitable for treating water in diesel. And then only if other options can't be used for some reason.
As far as Flying J,if you never had a problem before fueling there and it turns out to be water,they owe you for repair.
|
da.bees
|
05/13/13 11:05pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: can someone please explaing this
no comparison between pinion bearings running with gear oil and trailer axle bearings running in grease. dont know how someone compare
I never realized 5ers even have pinion bearings,much less how to service them. Maybe they are one of those seldom heard of options that help with side winds and tail-heavy wag steering.:h If only I could find them,I want to check mine out before hitting the road again.
|
da.bees
|
05/12/13 02:55pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: can someone please explaing this
I can't resist this one. Why does pinion bearings require approximately 55 inch lbs of rolling torque and axle bearings require free play all running in the same oil 2 feet apart? My obesrvation has been that pinion bearings out last axle bearings. Loose bearings beat themselves to death and cause seals to leak.
:? Your trailer has pinion bearings>?
|
da.bees
|
05/11/13 03:37pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Installing second AC, question about tilt of unit
Because they say not to and so the water will drain out. Turn the unit around so the front is facing to the rear. Unlike with a MH you will not be running it going down the road so air flow while moving will not be a problem.
....and let the wind resistance rip the shroud right off.
,,,,and I spect big ol bugs might fuzz up the condenser fins.
Oh and BTW,did anyone caution you about possiable condensate leaking?:R
|
da.bees
|
05/09/13 10:23am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Installing second AC, question about tilt of unit
Call the manufacture's support phone# in your owner's manual,meanwhile we will assume it has to do with condensate running places you don't want it to.:W
|
da.bees
|
05/09/13 12:16am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Sewer Flush ??
I confirm that this is a flush for the black tank only. I believe there is some sort of spray distribution nozzle within the tank and this will wash the side walls and the tank in general. My technique is to drain the black tank first, then use the flush. I have one of those clear spool pieces at the trailer drain outlet that let's me monitor the (ahem) color & contents of the liquid being drained. I do flush with the black water drain valve open. I let the flush water go until it runs clear for a while. Every now and then, I will close the drain and let the flush build up in the tank for a "surge" cleaning approach, but I never leave it unattended. I also concur with the separate dedicated hose to conduct this flush.
X2 ^^^^ Including the short clear tube. I often add 5 to 10 gallons of water to the black tank for the ride home. Never fails to be some paper and the water is colored when I dump it in the clean-out at home. I think that proves the rinser doesn't wash the tank walls very well.
|
da.bees
|
05/08/13 11:59pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: How do you tell if your caulking is failing?
Your method sounds ok to me. I would only add aligator cracking. Real failures are usualy due to improper installation of window or other item. If it leaks,caulking alone usualy isn't the fix. I feel safe in saying that if every trailer in a campground that had been caulked after leaving the factury was inspected,more than 50% were done improperly.
Not removing old caulk and cleaning the joint is most common problem.
|
da.bees
|
05/08/13 11:32pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Brake help
I don't fault him for not wanting to go anywhere so this needs fixed.
First things first. I highly reccomend you do what is told to you by the good folks here or have your Father in Law or whom ever is working on it come here and read everthing first hand. These things are tough enough without loseing anything in translation.
Pulling the break a way cable sounds like a good way to test from junction box to brakes.
If it passes that test you need to check from junction box to controller. I would start by diassembling both sides of the plug for inspection,clean and tighten wire clamping screws.
Chances are if there is a loose conection,it will be discolored due to high amp draw of brakes. Next to junction box where plug pigtail mounts on trailer.
It's possiable but itermitint controller failure is very unlikly.
Pulling a friend's trailer or loaning his trailer(with a caution of course)could bring it down to almost certainly controller with possiability of truck wireing. Controllers are almost plug and play so borrowing before buying might be an option.
|
da.bees
|
05/07/13 10:51pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Night driving having trouble seeing the wheels when turning
Lighting the wheel well is an interesting idea. It should actualy make lane changes safer by giving other drivers additional warning.
The light would best be red and mounted so it isn't visiable to cars which are meeting you. The light could include tail,stop and turn or either one. If the tail/turn wasn't enough illumination,an orange/yellow light could be mounted to be visiable only from frontal direction. Semi tractor trailers are actualy required to have the same signals. The only obstical I see is how to keep the lens from being covered or broken from debris thrown by tires. Many seasoned drivers would benifit from such light while backing into tight quarters.
|
da.bees
|
05/07/13 10:01pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Pump Question
It becomes much clearer when you recconize that city water by-passes the fresh water storage tank and pressurizes lines leading to facuets, water heater and toilet. The pump is there to pull water from storage tank and send it to facuets ect as needed when not connected to city water.
While you are getting aquanted with your trailer you should ask someone to check for water heater by-pass and show how it works.
|
da.bees
|
05/07/13 09:14pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Parking on Concrete
Based on what you stated,one failed tire in first three to five years would be the most I expect unless the tires are defective. I suspect you were sold very old or very low quility tires to begain with. Parking on concrete is by far not a big maintanance issue with rvs.
Would the tires benifit if the trailer was blocked up not resting on them? Yes but there are several other things that return more for time spent doing it.
|
da.bees
|
04/30/13 10:13pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: What to do with an 1991 Jamboree chasis AC with R12?
If they are replacing the compressor and converting to 134,that is as good as it gets. Soooo,it depends on what the story is on the compressor. If a fuse is blown or clutch not ingaging,$500+ is pretty expensive just to convert.
|
da.bees
|
04/30/13 09:51pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: NuWa Inductries
Scott
Thanks Chris
My orginal plan was to try and find a 2-3 year old NuWa 30 FK or 327 LK. I will keep track online and see how it works out.
Scott
Your plan of buying a well maintained used NuWa is what we did 9 years ago. We owned and traveled with different brands and never kept any as long as the present HHII. Our 2000 31RDBG is still serving us well. You will find a bunch of friendly folks on the NuWa owners forum who can answer about any thing about the brand you can think of.
|
da.bees
|
04/30/13 07:05pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: can someone please explaing this
Yup,pretty close.
I would only add,tighten the bearing down is somewhat subjetive. You only tighten it lightly wrench tight while slowly spinning the wheel.
Stop spinning wheel,loosen nut half round,finger tighten to last hole that will recieve retainer.
If you wrench tighten as you would the lug nuts,the bearing will likly be deformed and soon catastorply fail.:S
|
da.bees
|
04/30/13 06:48pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
