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 > Your search for posts made by 'dclark1946' found 101 matches.

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RE: No AM Reception on New Trailer

Typically a radio or stereo AM antenna is an internal antenna. Seldom is an external AM antenna used. That is true for non automotive applications but for autos (even before FM became popular)and RV applications the receiver will always have a Motorola coaxial jack in the back for the antenna connection. The Jensen system in our new TT has a single antenna jack for both AM and FM reception. Our 2004 and 2007 TTs had the same setup.
dclark1946 06/17/16 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: No AM Reception on New Trailer

My RV dealer tech called yesterday in response to my question about no AM reception. She confirmed that on another new Spree trailer with the same antenna there was no AM reception. Now I will be be talking to the manager to find out what the factory's thought process was for this design flaw. It looks like my options are to install a separate whip antenna or the other model CA 2500 but that requires another cable to be run from the TV/radio antenna to the circuit board that splits out the radio signal to be fed to the radio receiver. If anyone knows where I can purchase a fold down whip RV antenna like what was installed on our last two trailers I would appreciate the info. My Google search did not yield any sources. The fold down (loosen screw and rotate the whip down to the roof) is important to us since it makes the trailer cover much easier to install.
dclark1946 06/17/16 06:56am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer brake wiring question( Mystery Now Solved)

Another question after crawling around under our new KZ Spree TT. We have a 2014 version of the same Spree model (except it has the different bathroom layout). I would suggest looking at the wiring in the A-frame area. Ours was poorly done. Plenty of corrosion and water trapped in upside down wire nuts inside the 4x4 metal box. The positive wire from the battery was completely loose in a ring terminal and fell right out when I touched it. You may fix the wiring at the brake drums, but you also need the connections from the trailer's wiring to the umbilical cord to work, especially for braking when you need it the most some day. I completely redid the connections and installed a watertight PVC junction box. I also redid ground lugs to the frame due to corrosion. The brakes in our TT are not grounded via the axle tube and have 2-wire cable spliced to the 2 brake wires. The wiring is awfully small gauge though and I plan to upgrade it when I eventually take down the underbelly sheeting. This our 2nd Spree TT and wiring does not appear to be their strong point. Have also found poor AC & DC terminations at the converter/panel (including completely loose wire at a breaker) and a couple of receptacles with reverse polarity. Thanks for the input. I will inspect the wiring and connections to make sure they are going to be reliable.
dclark1946 06/15/16 08:24pm Tech Issues
RE: No AM Reception on New Trailer

I had no idea that KZ stooped to that level. You have a worthless antenna, and after looking at other antennas from that company, I wouldn't want any of them. You need to install a real TV antenna like a Winegard batwing, and a real AM/FM whip antenna. Only then can you see if the low end Jensen will meet your needs. Yes I was concerned about the TV antenna when we looked at another new Spree before we ordered ours. At that time I was not aware that the whip antenna had been eliminated. We had the Winegard Sensar antenna on our old trailer and I miss that too. I tried to get the factory to install the better antenna but they would not. I think the Jensen system will work for us if it holds up like the simpler Jensen we had in our previous trailer.
dclark1946 06/15/16 06:41pm Tech Issues
No AM Reception on New Trailer

I am working out issues on our new trailer. On the initial camp out I tried out the new entertainment system and everything seemed to be OK except no AM reception when you tuned through the whole band. Tried that again when we got home in the DFW area still nothing at all on the AM band. The trailer has a new to me Continuus fixed External HDTV RV antenna model CA1500 which I suspect is the issue since it lists both video and FM frequency bands but no AM band capability . Continuus also makes a similar looking CA2500 model which lists a wider TV band, FM and AM frequencies. The CA2500 is listed with 4 RF Jacks but the CA1500 model lists only 2 RF jacks. The receiver is a Jensen AWM 968 Mobil Audio System with what appears to have only one automotive type antenna jack. My first thought was to switch to the CA2500 model but not sure about 4RF Jacks if the AM is by itself or combined with the FM like it is in an automotive radio antenna. At the moment, it appears the KZ wrote off AM reception by using a lower cost antenna. Our older KZ had a small whip antenna feeding a Jensen Automotive radio/DVD player and that worked well for both AM and FM. Anyone familiar with the Continuus RV antenns?
dclark1946 06/15/16 11:27am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer brake wiring question( Mystery Now Solved)

Thanks to all for all the good inputs.
dclark1946 06/15/16 05:42am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer brake wiring question( Mystery Now Solved)

You can also use a campers compass held up close to the brake magnets and you should see the needle deflect when the brake signals are applied. Some brakes also make a tone noise when activated. Both my trailers do this... You have to be real close the wheels to hear it... each brake magnet will draw around 3AMPS DC current if the full 12VDC is applied. So add your brake magnets and see if your DC current is close to that number for all brakes... Four brake magnets could draw as much as 12AMPS DC CURRENT when 12VDC is applied. Roy Ken Roy. I assume the compass test is with the wheel and drum removed to expose the brake magnet? Does 11 A sound about right for 4 brakes. I think that is about what our old trailer pulled.
dclark1946 06/15/16 05:41am Tech Issues
Trailer brake wiring question

Duplicate post. Moderator please delete. I could not find the original and thoughtI had not posted.
dclark1946 06/14/16 05:31pm Tech Issues
Trailer brake wiring question( Mystery Now Solved)

Another question after crawling around under our new KZ Spree TT. The wiring to the rear of the brake drums is only connected on the driver's side. The wires coming out of the back of the drums on the other side are taped off. Is the other side fed through the axle tube or what? The trailer brakes draw about 11A when supplied with 12V when using our electric trailer dolly. I think I had measured brake current draw on each of the 4 wheels using a clamp on Ammeter on our 2007 Spree. Mystery solved: Thanks for your inputs. Based on those I was able to resolve this. My initial impression that the passenger side brake wires were not connected but just taped off was based on what I saw from the drivers side under the trailer where I could clearly see the wiring coming out from the plastic under belly liner and connecting to each of the brake drums. One of the wire pairs was laying across the top of the leaf spring which are mounted on top of the axle. I will need to reroute that pair. When I looked across to the other side to see how the wiring was routed I could see nothing but the wires coming out of the drums with tape on the ends. This morning I decided to climb under the passenger side for a closer look. I did see a pair of black wires exiting the axle and connecting to the drum wires so what appeared to be taped off wires was really the connection to the wires coming out of the axle tube. Black wires, black brake drums and less then optimum lighting coupled with not knowing that manufacturers had started feeding the brake controller power down the axle tube led to my initial wrong conclusion. I am now a little wiser.
dclark1946 06/14/16 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold moisture reduction heater switch

Page 5 of this Norcold N61X / N81X fridge owner's manual clearly indicates it does have what Norcold calls a "moisture reduction heater". My recollection is that the Norcold in our previous KZ Spree, probably an N611, had this climate control circuit but I don't recall if it had a switch to turn it off. OK - I've been all over the fridge and haven't seen a switch (anywhere on the doors or inside the fridge itself). I haven't looked behind the vent panel outside though. Anyone know how to disconnect this "moisture reduction heater" on the Norcold N811 units? Well that was my original question. I think there is no switch unless you add it. Our Norcold in our 2007 KZ Spree had a switch in the door jam area.
dclark1946 06/14/16 03:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold moisture reduction heater switch

Norcold did away with on/off switch for the door flap heater. Must be a conspiracy :W ... schematics for my own Dometic DM2652 indicate the fridge clearly has a climate control circuit and a switch on the eyebrow to turn it on/off but no way, no how does my particular fridge have that switch so I added my own switch. If the OP's Norcold likewise lacks a switch I'd imagine the same mod could be done with it as well. That is what I have in mind if it looks like power consumption is excessive when we are dry camping. Where did you locate your switch?
dclark1946 06/12/16 08:26am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold moisture reduction heater switch

Norcold did away with on/off switch for the door flap heater. But heater only operates when fridge is ON :S Fan is controlled by snap-disc t-stat attached to condenser fin and closes/opens based on condenser fin temp ---not ambient air temps I guess the condenser fin temp will be somewhat dependent on the outside ambient temp? Any idea how much current the door flap heater draws?
dclark1946 06/11/16 11:19pm Tech Issues
Norcold moisture reduction heater switch

Just completed our initial checkout of our new KZ Spree 263 RKS on a two day campout. I have been going through all the manuals and was specifically looking for location of the fridge moisture reduction heater switch. The manual for this N811 F mentions the heater but nothing about a switch to disable it like our previous Norcold on our 2007 Spree. Anyone know how to disable the heater to reduce power consumption? Also this fridge appears to have the optional fan that I can hear come on periodically. The schematic shows a temp switch in series so I am assuming this operates when the outside temp goes above a certain set point.
dclark1946 06/11/16 11:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Radiator Hose, 1999 Triton V-10 (Again)

Have you tried to contact Gates or Damon?
dclark1946 06/06/16 06:40am Tech Issues
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

That is the kind of tire you get when lowest price (and consequently lowest quality) tire is not top priority with the trailer manufacturer.
dclark1946 06/03/16 04:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

There is far to much personal bias one the part of some people to ever admit that the Chinese or other off shore countries can produce a quality product. Of course the gadget they are reading this message on most likely came from there. Add to this the belief that since LT tires are designed to a more robust set of test standards, they must be better than "P" or "ST" tires. Totally ignoring of course, the fact that the same factory turning out poor quality P and ST tires is also making their LT to the same quality level. I have seen lots of opinions on failure rates but I have yet to see any data to support it. It makes little difference anyway; if buying LTs gives a person the illusion of improved safety, they will sleep better no matter what the data says. In the end it is your money and a free country, you are free to buy whatever product makes you happy based on any set of opinions or data you like. The ST vs. LT controversy will never be resolved, it will simply fade away like the bias against the Japanese made product in the 1950's and early 60's. Their is very little bias against products made in China just because they are made there. There are however many personal experiences documented on this forum with issues with ST tires made in China. How can you say there is no data? When the Casita factory changed their tire supplier (due to excessive failures) to a non Chinese brand S/T tire (back when there were such suppliers available)that my friend is data. When it is documented in the news that a Chinese tire company was leaving out critical components of passenger tires causing numerous failures that is also data. You have to look at all the information that is out there and not disregard or blow off what does not support your position.
dclark1946 05/30/16 11:22am Travel Trailers
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

I am retired from a totally different industry from tires. However, the corporation I worked for had a lot of product manufactured in china. We had some good product made by those folks, and we had some that had to be discarded due to quality issues. The difference ? It was simple in our case: if our quality control folks were on scene in the production facility in china, then we got good product. As soon as we pulled our own folks back home to the USA, the quality slipped. Sent folks back over there, quality came back up. Simple as that. If this same principle applies to the tire industry, it begs the question, does the parent tire company have a good handle on the QC at the tire plant ? We, as consumers have absolutely no way of knowing the answer to that. For those of you who wish to be the beta testers for those tires made there, I say, have at it. Your money, your choice. I prefer to attempt to stack the odds as much in my favor as I can. Most things in life are about "trying to improve your odds". How we go about that is a matter of individual research, understanding, trial and error, and a certain amount of luck. As my lawyer told me one time many years ago, there are no guarantees in life. Do your best in thinking your way thru it, and deal with what happens. As to the LT vs ST "debate", for me personally, there is no debate. I worked thru the debate part of it a long time ago, and am happy with my conclusions. ....let the discussion rage on.....:) I agree and this was the point of my comment. If there were not issues with many of the import tires supplied on new trailers why would Airstream offer Michelin LT tires? Others also have posted that their trailers came from the factory with LT tires. My real world data involves three blowouts on two different trailers. My tires were constantly maintained with the correct tire pressure and checked for cracking and any other degradation issues. In the first case, the Carlisle tires were replaced with Good Year Marathon tires back when they were not made in China. This aligned with the change the Casita factory had made due to numerous Carlisle tire failures. There were no load changes and the trailer was towed in the same manner for several years with no failures. The other trailer had a blow out was a less than a year old 205-75-14 Load range C Tow Master tire. In this case I installed Michelin load range B tires and operated them at 2 PSI above the indicated maximum. I am certain that my original tires were not overloaded or improperly maintained. I operated that trailer for several years with no more issues. Many others on this forum have posted similar experiences and have replaced ST import tires with LT tires with the same load range and with few exceptions have had no unexplained tire failures. Those who choose to ignore this real world data are burying their head in the sand in my opinion. Just because you have not had a bad experience does not mean that there is not a serious quality variation occurring in import ST tire manufacturing. You have been lucky so far. If you have been involved in volume production of any product you would understand this.
dclark1946 05/30/16 09:58am Travel Trailers
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

Sorry to disappoint but you have not put the China Tire Bomb to rest. There is plenty of real world data out there that many of us have experienced that says otherwise. If you are really an expert in import tires you should know that it is not the country that makes the difference but the consistent quality of materials and manufacturing processes that determines tire quality. It was just a few years ago that a Chinese tire manufacturer was caught leaving out critical materials on passenger tires and people were getting injured or killed. I know China is capable of high quality products but unless you are careful on who your supplier is you may not get consistent quality. I have noticed that the tires coming on new trailers are never any brand that you will recognize and if you check later it is some other unheard of brand. When I was an RV show a few months ago I was looking at a new Airstream trailer and noticed that it had Michelin LT tires. The salesman indicated that option was now available due to tire quality issues with import ST tires. Perhaps the China tire industry has made quality improvements in the last year or so but in my mind the jury is still out on that and as long as I can purchase LT tires for my trailer that is what I will use. I have never had an LT tire fail and I have had several tire explosions with Chinese manufactured tires.
dclark1946 05/30/16 07:14am Travel Trailers
RE: A/C on generator question

Twenty Amps is certainly not enough to run two 13.5 k BTU A/C units. It appears your RV is configured to run only one A/C at a time. You should have enough generator power to run both but not through the 20A breaker. Are you certain neither A/C will run with the 20A breaker off?
dclark1946 05/28/16 06:09am Tech Issues
RE: 13,500 AC replacement

If you have plans to power your a/c unit(s) with a generator, consider looking at 13.5k a/c units with LRA's lower than 60a. You'll significantly reduce startup issues by doing so. I highly recommend the Coleman Power Saver 13.5k 9xx series units (not the older 8xx series). Some of these units have LRA's as low as 50a and can be started/run by one Honda EU2000i.A little HOnda can start and run a 13.5K btu AC, but not dependably . . . All 13.5k BTU a/c units are not created equal. There is a specific reason why some 13.5k BTU a/c's can be reliably started/run with a solo Honda EU2000i while others cannot. The closer a given 13.5k BTU a/c unit gets to 50a of LRA, the odds of a EU2000i reliably starting/running it (with the Eco mode on) go up dramatically. FWIW, the vast majority of OEM 13.5k BTU a/c units have 60-68a of LRA---too high for a solo EU2000i to start/run reliably--even with the Eco mode off. That is consistent with my tests. I was able to reliably start and run our Coleman 13.5 PS with our EU2000 in 97 deg ambient temp.
dclark1946 05/09/16 07:49pm Tech Issues
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