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Forum
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RE: Should I buy an expensive/complicated MH?
A friend of mine upgraded to a newer used diesel pusher from a trouble free gasser. He sweet talked the wife as she was dead against the upgrade. They bought the diesel, 2500 miles down the road it was laid up with nearly $9000 of engine repair. Like he said had he been near home he would have had it towed home and he could have repaired it for much less. But 1200 miles from home is a different story. That was 3 years ago and the wife hasn't forgot it.
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deereone
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03/26/13 01:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford Trucks / Lowest Price Paid
I sent you a PM about X-Plan
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deereone
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03/26/13 11:49am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ford Focus Dinghy Owners ?
The hatchback has a rear seat that folds down and allows long items to be placed in the rear.
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deereone
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03/03/13 01:27pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Double hook up?
I have seen a few campgrounds where it meant only one electric cord could be hooked to the pedestal. Some like to use say a 30 amp and then also run a 15/20 amp cord.
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deereone
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03/03/13 07:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Sky light crack
I used a Urethane Caulk which is still on after 6 years.
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deereone
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03/01/13 05:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rain Gutters
I went with the Gutter idea posted here: RV Gutter
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deereone
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03/01/13 05:45pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.
Norcold has settled on the idea it needs a new thermistor. So they are sending one. I don't see what the thermistor has to do with my original problem of getting a LI OP code 3 times in 2 months.
It has nothing to do with Li OP. But, it can have everything to do with the non cooling issue. The possible problem with multiple LI OP tripping may have to do with inadequate floating grounds on your RV. The solution to this is to run a dedicated 10 gauge wire from the refer frame to the Chassis frame and from the 12 volt ground plate. This is according to Norcold. Doug
I was talking to another camper today. His had a LI OP code on his Norcold a few days ago. The repair guy he called said every time it rains he gets several calls for the code. He said he had 7 calls for the code the day it was very windy and raining. Also he said it has happened a few times after someone has washed their RV. I guess that's something I'll have to take note of if I get the code again. I'll keep the ground idea in mind to after we get back home. Thanks
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deereone
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03/01/13 04:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.
Norcold has settled on the idea it needs a new thermistor. So they are sending one. I don't see what the thermistor has to do with my original problem of getting a LI OP code 3 times in 2 months.
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deereone
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03/01/13 12:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
The fans run NOT from outside ambient but from the temp sensor disc on top of the condensor fins. When the backside heat gets hi enough the fans come on. It is extremely rare for a 1200/1210 series Norcold to have a blockage as the controls will throw a NO CO code when you operate out of level or any parameter where the cooling unit is not in spec. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection device built into the logic of the control board. I would suspect a leakage, so small it is not very noticeable. Doug
Just talked to the RV repair and Norcold wants him to do another 6 hour test with the wire on the back of the light disconnected and fridge set to a 9. And so it goes. Makes me wonder if they are putting me off hoping to get by till the warranty expires.
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deereone
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02/28/13 02:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Purchasing Ford C MAX SE
I'll be watching this as I was interested in the same car for towing. But then after the story about the false 47 mpg mileage claim I sort of lost interest.
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deereone
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02/27/13 12:51pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
The fans run NOT from outside ambient but from the temp sensor disc on top of the condensor fins. When the backside heat gets hi enough the fans come on. It is extremely rare for a 1200/1210 series Norcold to have a blockage as the controls will throw a NO CO code when you operate out of level or any parameter where the cooling unit is not in spec. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection device built into the logic of the control board. I would suspect a leakage, so small it is not very noticeable. Doug Ok I guess your number 3 confused me: 3. "Has ANYONE verified that the cooling fans are operating???? They should have come on after 2 to 3 hours in your ambient temp". If they are NOT running, that is probably why it is not cooling. I guess I thought you were saying the fans should come on after 2 or 3 hours even at 55 degrees with no heating of the coils. Waiting for repair to contact Norcold now for the next move, I understand Norcold located around Ann Arbor, MI has a storm related power outage.
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deereone
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02/27/13 12:42pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
1. 6 hours is not even close for a test but IF Norcold told them, then Norcold is worried about liability if the CU leaks. In a Shop, it would go 24 hours BEFORE any other testing is done
2. Is this unit in a Slideout?
3. Has ANYONE verified that the cooling fans are operating???? They should have come on after 2 to 3 hours in your ambient temp. If they are NOT running, that is probably why it is not cooling
4. Has anyone verified the bottom to top outside ventilation is NOT blocked if NOT in a slide?
5. What is the delivery date on the RV, you stated it was in warranty. Doug
No it is not in a slideout.
Cooling fans were running the last time before it quit cooling. Now there is no heat in the coils and the fans are not running. Why would the fans run at 55 or 60 degrees??
Repair did check for blockage
It is on last year of warranty and it's parts only at this point.
After 6 hours of running, the coils on the back were still cold and inside temperature did not rise at all. Repair said it has a blockage and is calling Norcold back to see that the next move is.
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deereone
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02/27/13 08:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
UPDATE: RV repair was here this morning. They reset the recall box with a magnet. They were here for about a 1/2 hour after and it stayed running. Between then and 4 hours later the fridge did not get any cooler. I switched it over to gas, the burner runs but there has been no change. The tubes on the back of the fridge are cool to the touch and I think they should be at least warm to the touch. Called repair again and they say let it run another couple hours on gas and call them back. I will update as I learn more. It does me no good to call Norcold as they just tell me to call the repair guy.
Where are you and what is the outside ambient temp? You ALWAYS give a RV absorbsion refer 24 hours to complete a cool down. IF the refer is blocked or has leaked the coolant (which the repair guy should have checked) that will cause the rise in flue temp to the 700 degrees that would trip the recall. The normal operating temp is 300 to 350 degrees. IF the cooling unit is OK, then IF it does NOT complete a normal 24 hour cool down cycle, then it will throw a NO CO code. Doug
It's hanging right around 55 to 6o outside. Norcold had the repair guy disconnect the wire plug at the back of the inside fridge light and ask to run it 6 hours that way. After 6 hours it had not cooled any and the coils on the back where the recall box is were cold. They turned it off and said they would get back on it tomorrow.
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deereone
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02/26/13 05:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold LI OP flashing again
UPDATE: RV repair was here this morning. They reset the recall box with a magnet. They were here for about a 1/2 hour after and it stayed running. Between then and 4 hours later the fridge did not get any cooler. I switched it over to gas, the burner runs but there has been no change. The tubes on the back of the fridge are cool to the touch and I think they should be at least warm to the touch. Called repair again and they say let it run another couple hours on gas and call them back. I will update as I learn more. It does me no good to call Norcold as they just tell me to call the repair guy.
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deereone
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02/26/13 12:38pm |
Tech Issues
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Norcold LI OP flashing again
This is the third time since the first of January the Norcold 4 door has flashed this LI OP code and quit working. The first two times I turned the fridge off and back on and it went back to working. I had
RV repair check is out both times and could find nothing wrong. All this is under warranty. Now for the third time it's flashing the LI-OP code, but turning it off and on does not fix it. As before the red light is on, on the revision E recall box. Am I right in thinking after 3 times there has to be something wrong with the fridge to keep doing this? It's still under warranty. Anyone with thoughts for why 3 times for this in 2 months time? It's been checked out twice and no problem found, there has to be a problem. SEE MY UPDATE IN THREAD BELOW
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deereone
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02/26/13 05:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: filter for for furnace?
I would say if you have a filter it's under the bed. If you find you have a filter make sure to install a spun glass type filter or the lowest priced filter you can buy. The system does not operate well with a filter that puts any restriction on the air flow. I think Winnebago used the filters on any unit that has the basement air or basement air/heat pump.
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deereone
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02/09/13 07:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: buying parts from RV dealers
My son worked for a small (6 employees) mobile rv repair business for several years. He has told me many times they would buy parts from other larger rv repair or parts departments for less money than buying the same part through there regular wholesaler. The little guy buying a few parts just doesn't get the discount the larger volume dealers do. So to make a profit, well you understand. No different than when I was in a small business, I could buy batteries off the shelf at Walmart for less than buying them from my wholesaler. And if they were on sale at Walmart I liked it even better.
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deereone
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02/08/13 10:36am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Onan scam?
It seems to me these Onan generator engines seem to have a lot more problems after sitting than any other gas engine I have ever owned. I've had a lot of gas engines on all sorts of equipment both small and large.
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deereone
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01/29/13 05:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV park aerial video with Drone
Here is the way to do it: Fly over
Here is a picture of his drone and a little info: LINK
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deereone
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01/29/13 05:34pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Multi meter suggestion
This CLICK would be my choice of a good all around meter if I wanted a good do it all meter.
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deereone
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01/27/13 06:44pm |
Tech Issues
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