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 > Your search for posts made by 'deltamaster' found 189 matches.

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RE: Complaint about a dealer

Dennis, you are correct in your points and it is great tht you are seeing things from the dealer's side as well. Thing is, there should have been someone responsible for the issues and it should have been clear to the service writer that these were warranty repairs so that the customer would not get the bill OR would get the bill that stated NO CHARGES, just to outline the fact that all the items on the list were addressed. IMO the comment at the end about charging to chase down non-issues was uncalled for and only instilled a bit of animosity in to the mix. I can understand some of the frustration but not all.. In retrospect in reading my own post and having time to do some reflection during my writing sessions, I think my frustration is multi-parted in that: 1) we traded a perfectly working coach. But, an OLDER coach. There's a REASON why YOU traded. Generally that reason is to get something nicer or better suited for the owner's needs than what they already have. Not necessarily just because the previous unit is older. 2) we had many issues that we did not expect with this new (to us) coach. It's a REPO..NOT a NEW coach. Expect issues with any coach. Your expectations were too high. I disagree. The dealer sold a used working coach regardless if it was a repo or not it still needed to be working properly and needed to be clean. Sure, there should be expected that things will be worn or bulbs might be burned out but the systems should all work and whoever cleaned it should have opened and closed the blinds and cleaned them as well. 3) The way we were treated for the work that was done, that I feel should have been taken care of before we even received the coach was unprofessional and not called for. Cleanliness varies. What's clean to others may not be clean to you. True, but at least they could have cleaned the blinds. That should have been part of basic cleaning. 4) It seems at every turn, something is going wrong with this coach giving us the feeling of owning a lemon. I know they require maintenance but we didn't experience this many issues with our Damon. Bad Kharma..the more you resent the Fleetwood, the more 'issues' will bother you. Time to accept the new (to you) coach. Yes. Must accept the rig but also must accept it as properly working which at this point it is not. That fact, coupled with all the other little things and the dealer's attitude is what has the OP thinking about now owning a lemon. While that is not necessarily true, the dealer's attitude (IMO) has led to those feelings. 5) My anger towards my RV Dealer is directly related to two things a) their promise to deliver a 'like new' coach was not fulfilled 'Like new' to you differs from what 'like new' is to the dealer. and b) after telling me to log the issues and that they would take care of them (which they did) but then to turn around and bill me for it, then rescind the bill only after complaining about getting the bill in the first place and then give me a lecture via email on what is and is not covered in a warranty and what my expectations of the warranty is. Sounds like "assuming" took place on both sides. Assuming? Yes, the buyer assumed the dealer would correct all the issues as found and make it right. The buyer assumed there would be no charge as many of those issues were found within the first few hours and maybe should have been found during the inspection process. We all know how that goes. Both parties are anxious to get the rig off the lot. The buyer is anxious to go play with their new toy and the dealer is anxious to get the ink dry on the contract so they can turn the inventory over and get that thing out of there! As for the dealer assuming something... do you actually believe the dealer assumed the brand new buyer would be pleased to pay for all the little and big things that they found right away after the dealer told them to write it all up and bring it back? You bought the coach used, (don't know if you got a 'killer' deal) and expected a 'like new' coach. Like new is not 'perfect'. No, it should not have been perfect but it should have been clean and all the systems should have been properly working. There should have been signs of normal wear and tear but the dealer should have gone through it and fixed everything that was broken. Since the dealer offered the warranty then the dealer should have addressed the issues in the first list under the warranty AND as part of the initial inspection process. The bill should never have been charged to the buyer and the buyer should not have had to wage a complaint. You turned in a list to the dealer asking them to fix those items. Probably irritated the tech by asking them to fix a burned out lightbulb, but they fixed your list and billed you for the repairs. If the tech is irritated by replacing a burned out light bulb on a unit for a REPEAT customer then maybe the tech needs a new job somewhere else. Remember, different individuals doing different things within the company. (Lack of communication between billing clerk, service mgr and owner) Sounds like owner cleared that up but wasn't going to continue giving you a blank check for future repairs. Could have gone about it in a more tactful manner, rather than issuing a bill and then chastising the buyer after they complained about the bill. The warranty you received specifies what needs to be done in the event of a failure. You didn't follow protocol. They, most likely have some of the parts you need in their facility. Maybe from a previous fix. So are they using left over parts that they toss in a bin somewhere in the shop and dig from when they need it. Brake systems are important and should be repaired properly. I agree that the buyer should have taken it back to the dealer but int he same respect, given this dealer's history at this point I am not sure I would be able to trust they would perform the repair properly IMHO, you've got to give them the opportunity to fix your issue. The only other solution is to write them off and move on. You'll get nothing from any government agency. The dealer will show they acted in good faith by completing your previous repairs and eating the cost of those repairs. If you want the dealer to fix your issue under their warranty, you'll have to take it back to them. Otherwise it's on your nickel......Dennis True. The dealer must be given an opportunity to fix things otherwise the dealer will prevail in a complaint. That is why it is imperative that the buyer accurately document everything and find out from the brake manufacturer the PROPER repair procedure for the brake system and then ensure it is done properly.
deltamaster 10/24/14 01:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Complaint about a dealer

In retrospect in reading my own post and having time to do some reflection during my writing sessions, I think my frustration is multi-parted in that: 1) we traded a perfectly working coach. 2) we had many issues that we did not expect with this new (to us) coach. 3) The way we were treated for the work that was done, that I feel should have been taken care of before we even received the coach was unprofessional and not called for. 4) It seems at every turn, something is going wrong with this coach giving us the feeling of owning a lemon. I know they require maintenance but we didn't experience this many issues with our Damon. 5) My anger towards my RV Dealer is directly related to two things a) their promise to deliver a 'like new' coach was not fulfilled and b) after telling me to log the issues and that they would take care of them (which they did) but then to turn around and bill me for it, then rescind the bill only after complaining about getting the bill in the first place and then give me a lecture via email on what is and is not covered in a warranty and what my expectations of the warranty is. OK... confirmation of my earlier post and suspicions. I would also have some trust issues with the selling dealer as well. That is why it is best to get information from the brake system manufacturer as to why they include the pump in the kit and what their take is on the proper repair. If the mechanic can only get the kit with the pump then how will the selling dealer's mechanic make the proper repairs without purchasing the kit? Do they manufacture the parts themselves? Do they source and purchase the individual parts from some other place and cobble the thing back together?
deltamaster 10/24/14 01:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Complaint about a dealer

UPDATE ON THE BRAKE ISSUE. When my RV dealer states it can be repaired, they mean that since the brake pump runs then it probably does not need replacing. I called my service center and asked them if the pump was included in this replacement to which they said yes. I then asked them if they could do the repair, minus the pump and they said that the repair kit includes the pump and that is the only way they get the parts. As someone said, I might have to take the coach to the RV dealer to get it fixed, minus the pump. If the repair shop is being honest and the brake system manufacturer only sells the repair kit WITH the pump then there might be a good reason for that. MAYBE the manufacturer of the brake system will not warranty the new brake system installation without a pump replacement due to some unforseeable internal issue or damage. Maybe there could be metal shavings or other debris in the hydraulics that could damage the pump. Who knows. Has the brake system manufacturer responded to the OP as yet?
deltamaster 10/24/14 01:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Complaint about a dealer

I would take the motorhome to the selling dealer and have them fix the auto brake issue under their self administered warranty plan. Remember, the dealer's out of pocket expense is much less if they do the work themselves. I know it is frustrating, but from an outsiders view it looks as if the dealer is trying to work with you. Agreed, but with an attitude. Of course as with anything written, it is difficult to get the tone out there properly. This dealer has done a lot for us, but I also feel like they are irritated with me for what I felt were items they should have had fixed before I ever picked the coach up. My bad for not finding them during the inspection, but I don't think I need to feel guilty for having them stand by their own words to 'make it like new'. Seems that the attitude expressed after you came back from your trip with the grocery list of things that needed fixed might also be a factor in this as well. Sending a bill for 27 hundred in issues that should have been corrected prior to selling the rig to the customer is in BAD form and then the attitude afterward about it when they put in the little jab about charging to chase down ghosts really rubbed me a bit wrong. C0uple that with all the little things and the get bigger to the point of distrust. I am not sure I would trust that they would effect a permanent repair to the brake system. I would be concerned it would only last as long as the warranty and then I would be stuck with another 3K bill to have it done properly.
deltamaster 10/24/14 01:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Warranty Claim Denied

I was traveling a few years ago and had a Ford warranty problem. The dealer told me too bad nothing could be done. DW called the 1-800 in the Ford user manual. Ford Direct. Talked to the guy on the phone while we sat in the PU in the parking lot. He put her on hold for a few minutes came back and said all was taken care of. Funny before we could get out of the PU the head manager was running towards our vehicle complaining that we had no need to do that BUT bring the truck around and we will take care of you. So give it a try. May or may not work. Well, gee Mr. Dealer, I would have had no need to call the number in the book had you done your JOB! Ya gotta love these guys bailing on the customer as soon as the ink is dry on the contract and the customer pulls off the lot!
deltamaster 10/24/14 04:52am Tow Vehicles
RE: Decal

Old decals can be VERY difficult to remove. I know. I removed mine last summer. I used three eraser wheels, acetone, a heat gun and a lot of physical labor. I HATE those decals! Once they go bad they look terrible and once they get to look terrible they are hard to remove.
deltamaster 10/23/14 02:06pm Toy Haulers
RE: Cold Weather and LCD/LED televisions

I believe you. Just had a discussion about this on another forum. The reason the picture on an LED/LCD TV is sharper is because all those tiny little LEDs turn on and off behind the display instead of the display being constantly lit by really thin tubes. Same with a laptop computer. Sometimes the tubes or the inverter controlling them fails and the screen goes blank, or so you think. Shine a flashlight at the screen and look closely and you still see the images in the display. Relatively easy fix as it is usually the inverter that is the culprit.
deltamaster 10/23/14 12:01pm Technology Corner
RE: Starting my generator in my class C without

Your are welcome. Good luck and let us know how things work out for you. ALSO, as Harlygl94 mentioned, check the fluid level frequently and top off as needed
deltamaster 10/23/14 02:54am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof Collapse around A/C - Now leaking

Did you apply adhesive before setting the new plywood? I would have applied adhesive to the repair patch before sliding it in place for added support and strength. Do you plan to screw the patch to the roof sheathing from the underside? I haven't fastened it yet. I do plan to use adhesive. Ideally, I'd like to fasten screws from the bottom but I am a little paranoid about poking through the top and hitting the rubber membrane. I might screw from the top, countersink it just a hair and cover it with some silicone to prevent abrasion with the rubber membrane. On second thought, the existing roof is so thin that I might have to fasten from the bottom. I don't know that screw threads would hold that material well but certainly the screw head from the bottom would. I'll have some wood glue and clamps on hand as well to make sure it holds long term. You could alternate the screws, half from the top down and half from underneath up. If you get the right adhesive the screws will merely hold the boards together. Once the adhesive sets that will hold them together. Just make sure your screws are short enough to not go through the wood.
deltamaster 10/23/14 02:32am Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Collapse around A/C - Now leaking

Under the rubber membrane and over the existing sheathing... good idea. That should make sealing the topside much easier. Did you apply adhesive before setting the new plywood? I would have applied adhesive to the repair patch before sliding it in place for added support and strength. Do you plan to screw the patch to the roof sheathing from the underside? These pictures are much more descriptive of the problem. Had they not cut that lare aluminum brace so far back you likely would not have had this problem. Should have left it overhang the joint a couple inches. Good luck and I hope it works well for you.
deltamaster 10/22/14 01:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Eternabond Tape

You could recover the entire roof with that! I would only need two rolls... and still have a lot left over! How much does such a roll cost?
deltamaster 10/22/14 01:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold Weather and LCD/LED televisions

Comes up all the time.... NO leave it in the Rv .. Do you think the truck it was delivered in and stored in was heated ?? No ;-) There is a warning to not turn it on if cold .. Not good for the electronics from ice cold to hot in seconds. But not storage. The reason is condensation. When you bring a cold item to where it is warm the ambient air (which contains moisture) condenses on the cold surface and collects moisture. The moisture shorts out the electronics if they are energized when damp like that. As long as the television and the room temp are the same then the chances of shorting out something are minimal. LED and LCD are little affected by cold. Back in the day people were warned about PLASMA sets as there was a liquid in the screen that was affected by freezing temperatures.
deltamaster 10/22/14 01:14pm Technology Corner
RE: Eternabond Tape

I bought a large roll many years ago. First thing I did was run a strip along the roof edge where it rolls over the side just for added protection. Has come in handy as I have had limbs drag and the tape takes it well. I used it to secure and seal a vent cover that I found in the dumpster without the attachment hardware. Has been up there for about five years. Just taped it to the roof and it works great. Have used it to secure the antenna wire to the roof. Have used it to seal the hole for the external cell antenna cable. Have used it to seal the hole I punched through the sidewall with a screw that was too long... just a little square and you can barely see it. I put a layer on the roof under the roof pod mounts to keep them from wearing through the roof rubber. I keep a little in the RV for emergencies as well. Comes in really handy for all sorts of things as it is very sticky!
deltamaster 10/22/14 01:08pm General RVing Issues
RE: bubble on over hang class c

VERY concerned... I KNOW! I bought my rig new and found out last year that the manufacturers are very stingy with the sealing tape used to keep water out. As result I had developed extensive delamination and some wood rot of the compartment door frames. On the driver side, every place where two panels met and were covered with trim the very thin butyl tape did not keep the water out and I had delamination. The worst areas were on the rear skirt, where the fiberglass fell right off when I removed the trim and the driver side overcab in front of and below the window. I also had delamination several inches in on both front corners of the box. I had to use marine epoxy and fiberglass sheeting mesh to repair it all and I still was not able to get all the way in (even with pushing the epoxy in with a paint brush) so there is still some slight bubbling in areas. I pulled off ALL the trim, scraped off all the very thin butyl tape and laid a bead of rubber roof sealant caulk on all the seams. Then I laid a bead in all the trim and the compartment door frames where the butyl tape had been, ensuring there was plenty to cover the entire joints. No leaks now but it is visible that there had been work done. It took me about three or four weeks of 6 hour days to peel things back, let dry, repair the damage and then close it all back up and seal it. The passenger side was not nearly as bad but I pulled off all the trim and sealed everything again just to be safe. Topped it all off with brand new channel tape in the trim channels. Hopefully I get another ten years out of it. There have been some very heavy rains since and I have not detected any leaks. I HOPE that is the case but you never really know. I did my best but once it sets in it is a real mess! Fortunately my rig has an all aluminum frame so I am not concerned about the frame collapsing or the overcab falling.
deltamaster 10/22/14 01:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: CB Radio - needed?

Back in the 70's and 80's it was all the rage. I have always had one in my vehicles. When we bought this rig I bought one of those that has all the controls ans speaker and such on the microphone and the rest is really small and hidden under the dash. I have used it a couple of times but not much out there like it used to be. Mine is still there and it comes on every time the ignition switch is on but I rarely hear much going on. It does have a nice feature of the weather broadcast. I use that occasionally.
deltamaster 10/22/14 12:46pm Full-time RVing
RE: Roof Collapse around A/C - Now leaking

That is why I was thinking to "sleeve" the joint with channel iron that fit tightly to the plywood. The extra layer of plywood around the opening is also a good idea as well. The key is to bring the two free ends of the plywood back up together and make it all one piece.
deltamaster 10/22/14 12:16pm Travel Trailers
RE: Starting my generator in my class C without

I am going to leave the house batteries in the RV and keep it on shore power all winter but as far as the engine battery can I plug a trickle charger into the engine battery and then plug a small extension cord into the RV itself so I don't have to run a long extension cord down my driveway and run it over with the snowblower. Just wondering if it's okay to plug the trickle charger into the RV outlets and then have it plugged into shore power thank you That is exactly what I do. I have a trickle charger/maintainer hard wired on to the chassis battery. Whenever I am parked for a long period of time I plug in the charger to the exterior outlet and run the extension cord under the rig, out of the way.
deltamaster 10/22/14 11:12am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Starting my generator in my class C without

I think you need to run it under electrical load. I run it for about an hour every month or two when not in use and make sure to have the A/C or water heater on (with water in it) to draw a load.
deltamaster 10/22/14 05:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof Collapse around A/C - Now leaking

If you do as westend suggested and you use good quality adhesive, once it sets you may find you do not need fasteners along the new rafter, only on the ends where the box frames the hole to hold it in place while the adhesive sets. Modern adhesives are stronger than the material they adhere.
deltamaster 10/22/14 03:48am Travel Trailers
RE: Help with Microwave

Microwave ovens are relatively dangerous to work on. The power supply for the magnetron is capable of supplying a few thousand volts at significant currents—certainly enough to be lethal. The high voltage capacitors are typically wired with some sort of a bleeder to discharge them when the oven is off, but especially with an oven that's known to be having some difficulties it's quite unwise to rely on that. That's not to say that one cannot repair one's oven safely—just that it's vitally important to have a little bit of information and exercise due caution. There are a few things that commonly cause the main fuse in the oven to blow: door safety switch problems (either from the door getting misaligned, junk building up on the switch, or the switch itself going bad), a shorted magnetron, and just plain old age of the fuse. If a replacement of it makes the oven work, it's probably the last one on the list. There's a quite comprehensive and understandable guide to microwave oven repair including good safety information here. Another thing that can cause the fuse to blow is unreliable camp site power which is what I suspect caused mine to blow. We were hosting at a camp ground where the only powered site was for the host. There was only one pedestal and we had to share with the other host. I suspect that in the sharing process there was an errant surge when the microwave was turned on and the fuse protected the unit as it was intended. YES due caution is imperative when working on electrical units but with due care a fuse can be easily and safely replaced. The video I linked in previous post was a little sketchy on the safety aspect. The guy was poking around with a screw driver and used a metal screwdriver to pry the fuse out. It would have been much better if the guy had kept the screwdriver away from "Stuff" and used a pair of rubber-handled (or even plastic) pliers to remove and replace the fuse. Aside from that the procedure is quite simple and can be easily done by someone that knows how to use tools and respects electricity.
deltamaster 10/20/14 05:41pm Tech Issues
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