Couple of responses:
1. the only work order i have includes the original 80 & 40 then all the other charges that were added before end of transaction. Before i left the garage the only thing on the work order was the $80 and $40. So posting the work order will not be of any help as it now, at the end of the transaction, includes original 80, 40, and all other charges added. I have no other work order. Is this something that I should have according to CA law? I obviously do not know CA law on this and had no idea what should have been supplied before work began. Ignorance is always fun!!!
2. I am not pursing Mike any further outside this posting as I feel i did make the mistake of not getting full up front information and amount paid is my cost of not getting up front information - as i have stated previously. i did want to post to this community out of concern for others and feel that the 250+ cost was outrageous. Especially after talking to my shop here.
3. I would expect an OC/service to only cost $80 with materials (actually i would expect it to cost less but could stomach the 80). when i owned an F250 with V10 it would only cost about $49 for OC/service at my local garage - the same engine as my MH, so $80 made sense. Dino oil and filter can be had for $20 and then $60 for the 1/2 hour labor it takes. Why could a shop not make money at $120/labor hour. I actually stopped in South Dakota and was getting the MH washed and the place also did lubes and they would have done it for the gasser for $59 including oil, i asked about all charges. Of course i didn't need it then...
the only thing in writing i had when i left the RV was $80 for OC/service and $40 for genny OC. it was not stated that Oil and filter were not included. I had my mobile phone with me all day and did not recieve a phone call at any time.
I did not, as i previously stated, discuss with the RV center as i had failed to get all the information before the work was done and I feel i neglected to do my due dilegence and needed to pay the bill as completed. I was cordial as i was there as i was working to control my dissatisfaction with myself and the service center.
This for me was a case of buyer beware and felt violated at the overcharge.
after speaking wiht my typical service center they stated even with sythetic oil and airfilter they would have only charged around $120.
I do feel Mike's RV service overcharged and did not consult me when the bill went from the original estimate to the $250+ charge. For me it should have been a phone call to use $80 worth of synthetic oil and i hope the service center will be more forthcoming with future customers.
Again i paid my stupid tax, hope others continue to learn as i did.
I just wanted a brief rant and caution to others. Just finished our long awaited dream road trip this past week going cross country, it was an amazing experience except for one service stop.
Found Mike's RV center in Madera, CA and got him to change oil in MH and genny. When i left the MH in the am he quoted 80 & 40 respectively for service. High, but went ahead anyway. Got back that afternoon and he had completed service. It seems he did an acceptable professional job as He changed oil in both, and replaced air filter in genny. However when we got to the bill he had decided to use (without my consent)synthetic oil in both and charged for all parts separetly(air filter, oil, oil filters). The final bill was $260 for a gasser oil change/service and genny OC.
Here is my admission - i did not clarify, rather assumed, the quoted cost included oil and filters.
here is my problem - $80 and $40 SHOULD have included those - if i had known it didn't he would not have done the service. He should not have used sythetic without my consent($80 cost by itself). a basic OC and lube for a gasser should never cost anywhere near this amount.
I have marked it up as lesson learned - maybe a little stupid tax for me - but will do my due dillegence next time.
I am posting as a caution for using this guy and getting info up front - DUH!
For me a case of highway robbery, i hope for others a little reminder for not getting hosed...
End of rant!!!
best is best route to get from W. Yellowstone to Rapid City. Don't want to spend a lot of time driving, based on google all 3 take about the same time.
for me the best route as described in my original post was easiest from W. yellowstone to Rapid city in 35' MH with toad. as i am hearing the first two routes are easier without hard mountains as third route has.
thinking also that google takes an average not based on equipment you are driving so are the first two routes actually an hour quicker(for example) since i am driving MH? That is what i am trying to determine. More about getting there on this trip than the slow roll.
looking at routes with 35' gasser MH with toad.
looks like three different possible routes, however having never been in this area what is the best way for MH with toad?
1. N 191/287 to I90 and around to Rapid City
2. N 89 to I90 and around to RC
3. google says 20/16/14 past yellowstone lake to I90. This route looks like it would go through more mountainous route?
looking for the easiest route for MH and toad, which could be about the same time or even quicker. not afraid of mountains but also looking for the best route.
My bypass valve is only a 2way, not sure if there is a three way??? Have u tried to get valve to move past either position? Have you opened either water tank drain or relief to see if water is in tank? Mine takes several minutes to fill and will not if I do not open a facet and let air out as it fills. If he has the valve turned to the no flow position and water coming to camper and opens a facet does he hear air coming through facet? If not then line is plugged or valve may be bad?