When you price something off the internet, you'll usually get an "internet only" price. Camping World is aware that the buyer has to pay the shipping, so they charge a lower price if you purchase it online. That doesn't mean you can walk into the store and expect them to price match it.
The strange thing about water leaks is that they can come from some place that is nowhere near where they're coming inside. If water comes through around one if the outside lights in front of the unit, it can pass all the way to the opposite end of the unit and come inside in the rear. Best do like popeye said and bring it to a dealer that can do the pressure test.
By the way, in most jurisdictions, driving 45 mph in a 65 mph zone is perfectly legal.
Not if they are holding up traffic in the passing lane. It is after all, for "passing", not limping along.
Actually in most jurisdictions, driving 45 in a 65 will get you pulled over and warned for "unnecessary slow driving" and told to take the side roads instead of the highway/interstate or it'll be a ticket next time.
If you decide on Bluewater, make sure you contact Bluewater.net and NOT Bluewater.COM...rates are cheaper for the same sites....Dennis
uh, are you sure about www.bluewater.net :h? Bluewater.net looks like an I.T. Services company. Bluewater.com link seems good . . .
bluewaterkey.net and bluewaterkey.com
There is a difference between the two and I have heard that the rates are different for some sites.
A day trip to Key West from Marathon is no problem. It all depends on your budget. Staying closer to Key West is mega $. Get a Passport America membership and you can get 50% off for 5 days at Jolly Roger and more than pay for itself.
Here in Ottawa, Uber driver's are being fined by by-law officers when caught. They are bandit cabs.Honestly, this seems a bit extreme to me. "Bandit" cabs? That makes it sound as if they are holding up folks at gunpoint. Others mentioned the potential dangers of an unknown driver.
I detect a lot of emotion on this issue so I would like to ask everyone to please share their factual experiences with Uber and not their feelings or emotions about Uber or Lyft.
Particularly, I'm curious what their coverage is outside of metropolitan areas.
It's exactly what they're called - bandit cabs. Taxis operated without a license to do so, regardless of where they're operating. While Uber may conduct their checks and have their requirements, there is absolutely nothing to show that these checks and requirements meet the city requirements where they're operating. In addition, there is very little, if any, recourse if the customer has a bad experience.
Are they just as safe as regular city cabs? Possibly... could be... maybe... but who knows? That's the point. With city cabs, you can read somewhere on the city site what, point by point, what criteria needs to be met to get a license. Does Uber provide this in detail so customers can take this into consideration whether to choose to employ the service or not?
Just as an example: I just signed up as an Uber X driver. The only thing it did was ask me to scan in my driver's license, insurance, registration and proof that I'm eligible to work here. That's it. Got a nice welcome video. No fees, no vetting at all. they have no clue who I am. Do you? I have to believe my city's requirements are more than that.
Again, this is just here in Ottawa, or should I say on our side of the border. I see that Uber does more checks in the US, but not here. While someone may be confident that they'll have a positive experience while using the service in the US, not knowing that they don't do the same checks on this side of the border could put a customer in a position where the person they trust to drive them would not be someone they would trust to do so on the other side.
It's not just cursing... listen to kids talk these days. They're talking in text speak.
OMG... BRB... TY... all that stuff is coming out like that in verbiage. As us oldies become dust, this is how the adults of that generation will be talking, and then how will their kids be speaking?
Whichever treatment is used, it will only be effective if physical control methods and preventative measures are used together.
Physical control methods
Physical methods of controlling bedbugs include steam cleaning, vacuuming, heating, freezing, washing, and throwing out items. Steam cleaning should be done before vacuuming, as the steam will flush any bedbugs not killed out of hiding. Heat treatments should be left to the professionals.
Steaming, washing and throwing out items
Infested (but intact) mattresses, upholstery and plush items that cannot be washed with hot water and detergent should be steam cleaned. Bedbugs die at 50°C and steam cleaners generally emit steam at a temperature of at least 100°C. Dry steam or low vapour steamers are better because they leave behind less moisture. Steam will only kill the bedbugs that it reaches, so move the steam cleaner slowly to maximize depth. Avoid excess moisture, which could lead to mould.
Putting small items in the freezer or outside is sometimes effective. However, freezing temperatures must be kept for a prolonged period (4 days of consistent cold at -19°C), and may not kill all of the bedbugs.
Place small non-washable items and dry-clean-only items in a hot dryer for 30 minutes or more.
Wash mattress pads, bedding, bed skirts, infested clothes, curtains, and so on in hot water and dry them on the hottest dryer setting. Store clean, dry items in light-coloured sealed heavy duty plastic bags or plastic storage bins with secure lids to avoid infesting other areas.
Throw out any items that can't be washed, heated, or steam cleaned.
Vacuum daily following the directions below.
Handheld vacuums, vacuums with a cloth bag, and vacuums with hoses that are made of fabric are not a good idea for bedbug clean-up because these vacuums can become infested. For households with family members who have allergies or asthma, it's best to use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to avoid putting insect and dust allergens back into the air.
Bedbugs cling to wood and fabric, and their eggs are cemented to the surface where they were laid. Using a stiff brush attachment and a back-and-forth scraping motion on the surface of the mattress, and a nozzle for the seams and crevices, carefully vacuum all sides to remove bedbugs and eggs. This includes the mattress, box spring, bed frame, baseboards, non-washable furniture cushions, any rugs and carpeting, around heating units and baseboards, and the inside and underneath all drawers and furniture.
Let the vacuum run for a bit to make sure all bedbugs have been sucked into the bag, then dispose of the vacuum bag in a sealed white plastic bag (white plastic makes it easier to spot a bedbug), in a garbage bin with a lid.
Stuff paper towel in the end of the vacuum hose and seal it with tape to prevent any bedbugs from escaping.
Wash all vacuum attachments in hot water and detergent.
Store the vacuum in a large plastic bag and seal it.
For a bagless vacuum cleaner, follow the instructions above, but also empty the canister contents into a plastic garbage bag, seal and dispose of the bag right away, and wash the dust container in hot water with detergent.
Using pesticides and pest control products
Each pesticide comes with a detailed label that provides directions on how to use the product safely, which pests it controls, where and on what it can be used, and how to apply it properly. Follow these precautions when using pesticides:
Carefully read the label before buying or using pesticides, to figure out which products are best for your situation and to use the product safely.
Never use any treatment on people, pets or bedding unless the pesticide label specifically says to do so. For example, pesticides registered for use on bed frames are not meant to be used on mattresses or box springs.
Do not use homemade pesticides. While they may seem simple and harmless, many homemade pesticide recipes can be dangerous both to make and to use. They could harm you and your family.
I follow this forum religiously, as it is something I am very interested in once I retire.
The reason posts are closed here is because there are too many people who overvalue their 2 cents. Someone makes a post offering a site for Y hours, guaranteed someone will pipe in right away with their calculator in hand saying that, since their site costs X amount on their website and they want Y hours, they're only "paying" the person Z dollars/hour instead of just minding their own business and letting someone else decide whether they want to take the offer or not.
It discourages people from offering up jobs here, which undermines the purpose of this forum.
In Canada a DUI is a felony conviction. You are not allowed into Canada if you have a felony conviction, unless it has been pardoned. Not always are you asked but if t yoarethey check you will be turned back. Along with guns make sure you declare any pepper spray including bear spray. Other prohibited weapons include swithblades and brass knuckles.
Don't have any DUI's and I do cross 4-5 times a year to fish..but it seems odd that a DUI from the US, which is not a felony, would be considered such when crossing. I suppose they just don't usually check or it somehow does not show up, because like I said I know several people who DO have DUI's in the US that cross many times each year without a problem.
If, for any reason, they get pulled aside for secondary inspection, there will be a problem... especially if they try to lie about it.
When it comes to an offense, they treat the offense as if it has been committed in Canada. It doesn't matter if it's not a felony outside of Canada if it is here
BTW, Canadian Tire couldn't care less about what sticker is on the RV. All they checked on mine was that the DRL functioned. It was too big for their shop, so the safety (a huge waste of $ to safety a brand new vehicle) was done at the local Freightliner dealer...then off to the license office to pay the PST and get plates.
You actually took your rig to CanTire ?? .... TOO FUNNY !!!!!
They have trouble safety inspecting new cars :)
EVERY motor vehicle that's imported into Canada using the RIV process has to visit Canadian Tire. There's no choice as they are the official inspectors for RIV.
Sorry I laughed.
So I make the move to Ottawa more than a couple years back... and I bring along my '71 Mg-bgt...and it has to be safetied so, I ask where is the best place to go and am told cantire.
They failed it. Why ? It didn't have a catalytic converter ! I told them that the car was manufactured before the event of unleaded gas and still ran leaded gas (actually, unleaded with a supplement). They wouldn't budge.
Found a garage run by a couple of Jamaicans..wasn't sure about the place..pretty ratty outside...went inside and I stopped counting the value of the cars at 500K... man, were they good. And they passed it. Haven't been back since.
On another note, we will be long timing in a couple of years..and I am on a couple of boards..what I notice is a patchwork of confusing laws spread over our provinces and the 'states..just this thread shows the differences from coast to coast.
As I said, we were heading south and we found a gem locally so they are available.
RIV inspection and safety inspection are 2 different monsters. Crappy Tire is the most recommended for RIV inspections, but not the sole entity, there are others who can perform the inspection. They will remain unnamed, but a friend of mine imported a Hennessey Camaro last year, brought it to someone else other than Crappy Tire for the RIV paperwork because, well... it's not eligible with all the mods, but as just a Chevrolet Camaro it is.
RIV inspection is just about the only thing I would ever get done at Crappy Tire. Hell, despite the name, I wouldn't even do tires with them.
The only thing they care about is the chassis. Things like daytime running lights and kmh readout on the speedo (it doesn't matter if it's the small inside part of the speedo, as long as it's there). The house portion plays absolutely no part in that.
DUI is the big thing at the border. Getting into the US with a DUI doesn't seem to be a problem, but they will guaranteed send you back if you, or anyone you have with you, has one trying to come up here. Even President Bush Sr. needed special permission to visit the Prime Minister here while he was President because of a DUI from back in the 70's.
"If they feel mushy, take a (/16 wrench and a balpeen hammer and get under there and adjust them."
I don't know what jurisdiction your air brake endorsement is certified in but in Ontario, Canada you cannot adjust your air brakes unless you are certified to do so. This means either being an air brake mechanic or MTO certified air brake adjuster. It not only is very dangerous to do so it's also illegal.
Can you provide the statute from any jurisdiction that says it is illegal to adjust your own non-commercial air brake slack adjusters?
Quoted from the MTO site :
"Drivers who have a valid Ontario air-brake adjustment certificate are qualified to re-adjust the brakes on vehicles fitted with manual slack adjusters."
Just having the Z (Ontario air brake) endorsement on the driver's license does not qualify it as an adjustment certificate. They are 2 different things here. The adjustment certificate is another wallet sized card.
As I mentioned in my first reply, the RIV site will be your bible. conduct your research and know what you'll need and when you'll need it, you'll be good to go.
The only problem I can see is that you're going to have a tough time getting a dealer up here to do warranty work, or service your unit, in a timely fashion. Because you didn't buy the unit from them, you're going to be put at the very end of the priority list. They'll service rigs that are bought from them first. If another one of their customers comes in after you do, they'll get priority over you too. You'll wait. And a good service place will be busy. Just be prepared for it.