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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Zone 2 won't read on Thermostat
Doug, I have not replaced the zone 2 A/C unit. Does the zone 2 A/C have J11 connections in the same place as the zone 1 A/C?
I have reset the thermostat and get FF after every operation. I have not touched the dip swithes on either A/C unit.
ALL CCC AC control boards have the same J11 connections. The odds are the modular connections are corroded, more so if you have a Penguin low profile model. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 06:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH leveling
You have bad inner seals on those jacks. Springs on a unit as new as yours will not be the problem. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 06:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold refrigerator very slow to cool down.
Dirty burner or low LP pressure. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 06:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Propane bleed valve
Auto Stop fill valves(OPD) have been standard on ASME motorhome tanks for over 30 years
There are 2 items everyone is talking about here and I think some are confused about which is which
1. The FILL valve has the yellow large cap on it and is also the OPD valve
2. The "Bleeder" or also called the 80% valve is the small 1/2 inch knurled nut that usually has the red/silver tag around it.
3. BOTH have to function to be a safe fill and operation
4. When filling the tank thru the OPD connection you ALWAYS open the 80% (bleeder) valve. OPD's can fail or let MORE liquid into the tank than is safe
5. When filling you ALWAYS stop the fill if the 80% valve spews liquid even if the OPD has NOT shut down yet. That 80% is a failsafe on a safe fill.
6. To the OP, IF you have removed the Bleeder assbly and nothing comes out, you either have an empty tank or the bleeder is clogged somehow. Get it fixed. I fail to see HOW you can remove a bleeder valve with ANY liquid in the tank. It would spew hi pressure vapor if any LP liquid was in the tank to vaporize. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 06:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold 1201 LRM plague
Are the fans still inop? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 10:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Attwood or HWH levelers - difference?
Atwood Levelegs REDUCE the value of the Motorhome. Most OEM's have stopped using Atwoods due to their lack of reliability and the fact that replacement jacks and parts are very expensive. Atwoods are all electric. HWH are Hydraulic and have been in business over 30 years. Atwood Levelegs are less than 10 years old and have had nothing but problems. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/13 05:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Zone 2 won't read on Thermostat
You need to check and redo the J11 connections at the Zone 2 AC also. have you replaced the Zone 2 AC or did this problem just come up???
1. The Zone 2 has the communication cable going from IT to the Front Zone 1 AC control board
2. The Zone 2 has a DIP switch ON the Zone 2 control board that MUST be set to Zone 2 or it will not read out
Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/13 04:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Vin and Serial number versus title
1. Title YEAR is determine by the COACH maker, NOT the Chassis maker
2. IF HR states it is a 2005, then it IS a 2005, not a 2006.
3. The OEM coach maker determines the YEAR, nothing else.
4. So, since HR states it IS a 2005, your dealer made an expensive mistake and the dealer IS responsible for that error. You paid based on a 2006 not an older less expensive 2005. I suggest you pay a lawyer to send a nice letter explaining his error. You could also contac your states Attorney general and the vehicle licensing board. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/13 10:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: norcold 1200 dead panel
You have a 2002 RV. You state your 1200 is less than 1 year old. They have not built 1200 models in years. The current model is a 1210. Are you positive about the model number. The FIRST and only thing you can do is take a 12 volt reading at the input of the recall box and the output. IF no 12 volt, you have a supply problem TO the refer from your Coach 12 volt supply. If you have in and out 12 volt from the recall box, then the back cover has to be pulled to check the 12 volt fuse on the rear control board. There is NO reset type procedure for a 1200 series Norcold refer that involves removing 12 volt power and then restoring 12 volt power or 120 power. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/13 05:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold code L1. OP how to fix
Go to the back of the fridge. Open the panel and you will see a red light on a black box. Place a magnet under the red light and it will go off and the fridge will come back on. This is what the mechanic did to ours. There is a problem with the recall box. We did this and never had another problem in a year.
Not all recall boxes will respond to the magnet. MY point is, the box tripped for a reason. Resetting is risky without knowing why it tripped. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/20/13 05:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic RM2652 fridge flue cleaning
Removing the lower burner will NOT gain access to clean the flue(because of the baffle in the flue). IF you really think the baffle needs pulled and the flue cleaned, you need to pull the refer and remove the baffle and then insert the brush cleaner from the top. I have NEVER in 34 years had to pull a refer to clean a flue. My curved air nozzle inserted above the burner blowing up the flue does the trick. A Dirty flue does not really hamper LP operation. Flue debris on or falling on the burner causes performance problems. Also, IF the baffle is not installed or is damaged, that will cause LP performance problems. So, you really need to pull the refer and pull the baffle to verify the spiral condition of the baffle. Has the Cooling unit ever been replaced???? If so, then a common mistake from inexperienced installers is to FORGET to transfer the baffle from the old cooling unit. Dometic does not and rebuilders do not supply new baffles on their cooling units. Only Norcold supplies new baffles on their cooling units. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/13 07:54pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold code L1. OP how to fix
The procedure is this.
1. Take it to a Norcold auth service center.
2. They will check for leaking ammonia and if NO obvious leaks will bypass the Recall control for 24 hours and check performance of the refer.
3. IF the refer performs to spec, Norcold will replace the recall box AND the tech is supposed to replace the Thermosensor also and Norcold will pay the labor to replace the kit and pay for the kit
4. The customer is out the .5 to 1.0 hour check out fee to verify the condition of the refer. We charge .5 hour check out fee.
5. IF the refer does NOT perform to spec on the initial check out, then WE charge another .5 to go into more detail and find out what the problem is. IF the problem turns out to be a Defective Cooling unit, we stop and advise the customer. NEW Cooling units from Norcold come with the recall kit.
6. If it is NOT a cooling unit problem but something else, the customer can then opt to pay and have us fix the operational problem.
7. Norcold will NOT under any circumstance allow a customer to replace the recall box or advise to bypass a tripped box. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/13 07:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Duo Therm roof Air conditioner
1. On Auto, the fan will run regardless of the temp control setting BECAUSE, if the unit is not cooling and cannot get the unit to its preset temp, the fan will run. What type of wall tstat do you have? What year/brand/ RV do you have? Turn the tstat to OFF with the fan on Auto. IF that does not do the trick, just turn the 120 breaker OFF for that AC. That breaker only supplies that AC. If you turn the temp all the way UP (hottest setting) wait a few minutes as there is a time delay for the Fan to shut off even on Auto. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/13 11:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: ANTENNA TEK
Reception is the same, but they use cheaper plastic on the components, so the crank mechanism is not as dependable as Winegard. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/13 06:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I would agree with finding out just what circuits they are protecting and maybe purchase some spare breakers might be prudent.
So, you never change your oil or do any preventative maintenance at all???? Because if it ain't broke don't fix it?????? :h Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/13 06:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
Those t5ype circuit breakers are NOT weathertight. That means the odds are the inside of the breaker is corroded also.
REPLACE THEM NOW. Replace the ring terminals also. Doug
ps, I will bet if you just wiggle those ring terminals a few times they will break off from the corrosion. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/13 06:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is this normal? Dealer service question.
It depends on the dealership. Some smaller dealerships may only do warranty work on the "House" part of the unit and leave more "specialty" work, such as engines and transmissions to those authorized repair facilities. I know from my experience, I would not want my local RV dealer working on my engine or transmission because they just don't have the same expertise as the other shops.
As long as it gets taken care of under warranty, don't sweat it.
I understand that they not be qualified but is it normal for them to say I must (personally) take it to the engine/trans guy? They don't handle this as a service for their customer?
The reason Dealer do NOT transport to Chassis warranty centers is because
1. WHO pays for that time for the 2 employees to make that trip?
2. WHO accepts responsibility if that unit gets damaged by transporting or at the other facility?
3. Our dealership, we do not transport, but we advise the customers at delivery that we are not responsible for transport or warranty on various chassis items and they sign a paper that they have been told such and they have to go to the appropriate Chassis service facility.
4. I would be very suprised that in your stack of delivery papers you do not have such an agreement signed by you. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/17/13 10:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fridge & LP/Power
My 99 Fleetwod Discovery DP, when camping runs on LP. When I got home I hooked the MH to my house for power. My MH is on 30 watt. The appliances are lit up and running. What may cause the fridge side does not feel cold. Freezer side seems to be getting cold. What could be going on??
1. 30 AMPs not watts:B
2. ALWAYS give 24 hours for a complete cool down on a RV absorbsion refer.
3. The freezer is the first section of the cooling coil and will show cold first.Doug
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dougrainer
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05/17/13 05:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fridge & LP/Power
RV fridges cool quicker on gas than electric. I turn mine on at least 24 hours before a trip to give it a chance remove all the heat. Actually, they remove heat, they don't cool like a residential fridge.
They do not cool quicker on LP. They DO start the process quicker on LP for the first 15 minutes. Then the 120 element/s are up to full heat on the flue to supply the same BTU for cooling. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/17/13 05:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rinnai tankless water heater -
Reasons?
1. IF the Rinnai states to NOT install in an RV, That is the reason
2. MOST residential type tankless require at minimum a 1/2 inch gas line. Almost NO RV's have a 1/2 inch thruout the RV. The feeds are 3/8 copper line from a 1/2 inch line.
3. The specs for install almost preclude this Heater from fitting safely in most RV's
4. Last, the venting requirements would be very difficult to meet in an RV Doug
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dougrainer
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05/17/13 05:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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