The unit I have still cools, but not like it used to and the evaporator core starts freezing up in really hot weather.Have you checked the freeze sensor is placed against the evaporator?
Often they fall away and become ineffective.
If you are looking at two units on a 30 amp RV I strongly suggest reviewing the specs for lowest amp draw. Maybe even get a 15k and a 9k or 13.5 unit. Will not cool well if the breaker is tripping off.
The freeze sensor is in place
Yeah I kinda thought there was some trickery there but even at 15k BTU the Atwood still looks to run on way less amps than the dometic or the Coleman. I'm seeing 13.9 amps for the Atwood vs 16.0 for the Coleman and I've seen two different numbers for the domestic at 15.2 or 12.9 so I'm going to assume the higher number is at max .
I'm looking at new rooftop a/c's for my trailer-2013 Jayco 33BHTS. It has one 15k btu Coleman Mach rooftop ducted a/c and the camper is 30amp. We camp in the south and we use it a lot-over 100 days/nights a year. We have had the camper 3.5 years and when not using it stays plugged in with a/c set at 80, so the unit has a lot of hours on it.
It's also a big camper with only one a/c so I need all the cooling I can get.
The unit I have still cools, but not like it used to and the evaporator core starts freezing up in really hot weather.
So I'm trying to decide what to replace it with. Been looking at another Coleman, Dometic, and I'm really interested in the Atwood 18k btu a/c. But I'm not sure if I can run that on 30 amp service?
Thanks for any advice!