I did the same thing to my Bounder. Took the old 27in TV out, put up a 3/4 inch backer piece of plywood, painted flat black, and then mounted a flat screen bracket to it. The bracket I have has a lock on it to keep the 32in TV from "jumping" off.
I did not hinge the plywood backer board, just cut a nice 2in hole in it for the cables to come thru. I can easily reach behind the TV now, unlock it, slide it up and off the bracket, and then it's just 3 screws per side to back out and that entire backer board comes off.
My Bounder has been a great motorhome. I'm the original owner, and right after purchase had the traditional "punch" list of fit/trim items that the dealer took care of. 9 years and 31,000 miles later it's still running strong and drives real smooth. It has the 2nd generation Ford 2V 310hp V10 with 4 spd trans, which easily pulls my HHR. The F53 chassis went to the Ford 3V 362 hp V10 with 5 spd trans for the 2006 model year.
DW and I put about 3500 miles a year on it, mostly camping with RV clubs, holiday week-ends with Kids/Gkids out in VA Beach and a couple NASCAR races. I have it serviced and inspected every March, and every 3rd year do a light truck service on the chassis and service the generator. It gets washed about twice a year.
Bought a 60 month/60,000 mile Service Contract at the 3 year mark, right after the Ford powertrain warranty expired. Over the last 5 years, the service contract replaced the rear AC, one of the rear electric jacks, the 12v/120v converter/charger and all three batteries, and the cooling coil for the fridge. All I paid was the $200 deductable for each occurance.
We removed the original vinyl and carpet from the command chairs to the bedroom and replaced that with high grade tile, we replaced the original 27in front TV with a 32in Samsung HD TV, and I put a new set of 19.5 in Firestone tires on it in Jul 12. Only engine modification I made was a Banks Ram Air, mostly to replace the OEM air filter, which had a problem of getting wet when driving in downpours.
I would buy another Bounder tomorrow, if Fleetwood made the floorplan and options that DW and I want in our next motorhome. We have pretty much settled on a 2014 Tiffin Allegro 36LA, mainly because of options. Will probably be selling the Bounder later this year or early next year, so that we can have the Allegro to travel to GA in Mar 14 for the FMCA International Rally.
That switch is to "flash" your upper running lights. best way to tell if its working is turn on your lights and have someone rock the switch while standing outside (in a moderaterly dark condition). You'll see your upper red running lights in the back and upper yellow/orange running lights in the front "flash" as the switch is rocked.
Depending on how its wired, your full headlights might need to be on. Plus there is also a possibility that your headlights will also flash, but I've heard that flashing your headlights is illegal in some states, so the switch might not be wired that way.
I too have been toying with the idea of trading the Bounder for an Allegro 36LA. I contacted a couple Tiffin dealers to get an idea of trade-in value, price of the 36LA and difference they wanted. I know that from 2 dealers, they will sell me a fully optioned 2013 Allegro 36LA for around $110K. I got a price sheet from Tiffin, put the options the MH we wanted, and the cost was right at $147K retail. This equates to a 25% discount, and I really didn't have to negotiate this too hard. Probably could get a little more if I asked again.
BUT...throw in the Bounder on trade, and now I'm looking at about an $85K difference. This means I'm getting about $25K for the Bounder, about half of it's current $50K NADA value, and financing not only the $85K but the $60K I still owe on the Bounder...a total of $145K. Pretty much retail for the Allegro.
Have decided to sell the Bounder for $50K (if I get that), and cover the $10K negative equity with a HELOC loan. That way, I'm clear of the Bounder, no trade in, and I can negotiate a 2014 Allegro 36LA from a 25-28% off retail price.
I've got diplexers on both the front end and back end of the RG6 cable that runs fore to aft in my MH. That way I can put both the SAT signal and the ANT signal onto that single cable.
At the rear TV, I mounted a triple connection plate, and connected the SAT, ANT and TV cables to the back of it (in the closet). On the front side of the triple plate, SAT goes into the DTV box, ANT goes into the DTV box, and the TV cable from the SAT box goes to the TV connection on the triple plate.
If DW wants to watch a movie instear of DTV or off-air TV, she connects her DVD player into the Video 2 RCA connection on the front of the TV, and selects Video 2 on the TV.
Ran into the same problem a couple months back. Originally bought the entire wiper blade assembly from Auto Zone, and took off the old ones where the two screws attach it, but none of the supplied attachments would work. Ended up buying just the 26 in blade inserts, and left the blade holder attached to the wiper arm.
When I took those blade assemblies back to Auto Zone, and told the guy that none of the attachments would fit, he pulled out a box of different wiper blade attachment fittings from under the counter, and sure enough, there was one there that would have worked.
Next time I buy wiper blades, I'll be sure to ask for the special attachments from the box under the counter.
ten years ago, in my home RV park (private) in Va Beach, there were 3-4 golf carts...now there are 3-4 hundred. Today they are regulated by annual fees, safety inspections and insurance checks. Can't bring it thru the gate unless it is registered, and has a current sticker. Also, no gas carts allowed, only electric. Yes, mostly for entertainment and joy riding around the campground, though we are spread out with over 400 sites on 100+ acres.
Manual in my HHR says not to exceed 65 mph towing 4 down, but I've done it many times going downhill or speeding up to get around another vehicle. Towed it 20K+ miles, and the HHR has 88K+ miles on the ODO, so at almost 110K miles, all is good...so far...:):):)
I did have to replace most of the front suspension recently, mostly due to the pot hole infused roads around the Hampton Roads area I drive every day. Most of the $2700 cost for struts, wheel bearings, upper/lower control arms, stabilizer links and labor was covered under my GMAC warranty.
Here is the list of systems/equipment I made back when we got the Bounder. Each one of the systems in the Bounder has either an operating and/or maintenance manual/booklet...about 30 of them overall. The big operating manual for the Bounder itself was very generic. I went to Fleetwood a few years back and got the exact 12v and 120v wiring diagrams for my Bounder. All I needed was the Fleetwood ID Number.
VELVAC Model 2025 Low Mount Mirrors – no warranty listed, No service rqmt listed
MARSHALL Model 290-00 LP Gas regulator – 1 year warranty, No service rqmt listed
COSTAR Model 12RV-D CO2 Alarm – 1 year free replacement + 5 years pro-rated
Service Requirement: vacuum regularly.
Replace on ______________________
WFCO model WF-88xx power converter – 2 year warranty, No service rqmt listed
(replaced with an Intellatec 3 stage converter about 15 months ago)
KWIKEE model xx electric steps – 2 year warranty
Service rqmt – lubricate all moving parts every 30 days
TROJAN “house” batteries – no warranty listed, No service rqmt listed
(replaced with Interstate batteries same time as the power converter)
INTELLITEC Model 900 50 AMP Smart EMS – no warranty listed
No service rqmt listed
INTELLITEC #00-00803-100 50 AMP Transfer Relay – no warranty listed
No service rqmt listed
SAMSUNG model MC1015WB/BB Microwave Oven- 1 year, 8 years on magnetron
Service rqmt – clean as needed
MAYTAG model xxxx RV Cooking Appliance – 2 year warranty
Service rqmt – clean as needed
DOMETIC model RMxxxx Refrigerator – 3 years parts, 2 years labor warranty
Service rqmt – clean back/vent areas, clean coils, check all LP connections, check AES system, check LP gas pressure, inspect flue baffle
SHURflo Potable Water Pump – 2 years from date of manufacture
SWAN SAN-T-FLUSH – 1 year warranty
TuffPEX Plumbing – 10 years fittings, 25 years tube warranty
SEALAND Toilet – 3 years, china bowl 10 year warranty
FAN-TASTIC Create-a-Breeze fan- 1 year warranty
RV PRODUCTS 8000 series Roof-top AC – 2 year warranty
RV PRODUCTS AC Mounted Solar Battery Maint System – 2 year warranty
WELDEX rear View monitoring system – no warranty listed
ATWOOD Water Heater – 2 year warranty
ATWOOD Hydro Flame Furnace – 2 year warranty
MAGNADYNE AM/FM/CD/CASS Stereo – 1 year warranty
WINEGARD RV Digital Satellite System – 2 year warranty
WINEGARD Sensar Antenna – 2 year warranty
PANASONIC Color Televisions – 90 days labor, 1 years parts, 2 years CRT
(front TV replaced in 2008 with 32in Samsung HDTV)
POWER GEAR Slide-out System – 2 year warranty
DENSO Dash HVAC – 2 year warranty
ATWOOD LEVELEGS System – 2 year warranty
ALPHA SYSTEMS EPDM Rubber Roof System – 5 years labor, 12 years parts warranty
A&E SYSTEMS Patio Awning – 2 years labor, 3 years parts warranty
A&E SYSTEMS Slide Toppers – 1 year warranty (replaced in 2010)
CCI Controls Gas Leak Detector – 2 year warranty
ONAN Mobile GenSet – 2 years parts & labor, 3 years/2000 hrs select parts
I check those 8 bolts every year, when we clean the filters and inside the A/Cs. Never found them real loose. A friend had a ceiling leak in his PA and it ended up being loose A/C bolts letting in the condensate.
Check the location of your sensors. My front sensor is located on the wall just under my rear AC, so we have to lower the rear AC temp about 4 deg to get even cooling. My rear sensor is under the rear TV, so again we have to watch the front and rear AC set points to ensure even cooling.
Been towing the HHR now for almost 6 years (20K miles), no problems. Did just have to put new struts, lower plates, hub bearings and sway bar ends on it, but at 84K+ miles, figure I got my monies worth out of those front suspension parts I had to replace, plus my GM extended warranty covered most of the parts/labor.
I looked at the Honda CR-V and Jeep Liberty back when trying to decide what to tow. Went with the HHR mostly based on price..it was $1000s less than the Honda or Jeep.
With the HHR now out of production, will try to hang on to it until we upgrade to a DP, and then will have more towing weight available. Right now I'm at 5K lbs, and the HHR weights in at just under 3200 lbs...
DW's plan is to find a rear/half bath floorplan with kitchen layout she likes and not worry about the 2 facing sofas, since they are both coming out. One will be replaced by recliners, the other by a custom entertainment/PC center with the TV on a power lift. After that, we'll probably remove the front TV and covert that space into stowage. There are a lot of RV remodelers out there that do excellent work at reasonable prices.
My 2005 Bounder was built in Nov '04 on a F53 chassis built in June '04 with the 2v/310hp V10 w/4spd trans.
A friend in my FMCA chapter has a 2006 Bounder built in Oct 05 that has the 3v/362hp V10 w/5spd trans.
I'm mostly pleased with the low cost and ease of maintenance on my V10. I've got the 2nd gen V10, the 2v/310hp with 4 spd trans. I can take it to the local Ford dealer and have a standard oil change done for $25. Every other year I take it to a truck shop and have them do a light truck service on it, and also service the generator.
Do NOT use your cell phone while your awning is unfurling....California will prolly pass a law on that.....just sayin.....:B:B...Dennis
Kinda like the late 70's when we were warned not to fly in DC-10s full of Pintos with Firestone 500 tires on them because you might crash into Three Mile Island, and then get covered with asbestos.
First time ever riding in a class A motorhome. I was not the driver. Went from Chicago to Florida and back. I felt so unstable in there---like everything was loosy goosy with a sensation of toppling over. Is this normal for the first few times? and will I get used to it?
Fairly new (to me) owner of our first motorhome here (a 34 foot Damon Challenger on a Ford chassis)
I'm an inexperienced (first time was when we bought it) RV driver and LOML had never sat in an RV.
Needless to say, LOML was quite nervous the first few times... the poor handrests really took a beating. For the first couple of drives I even had that "falling off a cliff" feeling (though I would never tell anyone but LOML and you few-thousand folks)...
...but that feeling has gone away... and LOML has lost that "uncomfortable" feeling (we are working on our RV 3-4 times a week so drive the 2-mile trip from our parking spot to our house quite a bit)
Some of the improvement also came from me getting a little driving experience. Learning what speeds and how to enter/exit turns (especially slow speed turns) and how to massage the accelerator through bumps/over railroad tracks etc and cause the least amount of wallow and swing (I'm quickly learning how to hit both wheels on an obstacle at the same time and accelerate out of the obstacle to minimize sway)
Simply put, give it a little time and if things don't improve I suggest you look into the other solutions presented here by the more experienced drivers/passengers. The advice and wisdom here on the site has been invaluable.
Just my .02
OK, I give up. What does LOML stand for? I assume OML stands for Old Mother-in-Law but I can't guess what the L stands for.
Love of My Life....
DW rides/sleeps in the back of our Bounder all the time. Says I seem to find the bumpiest road just when she decides to lay down on the bed. Most the time she sits at the dinette and works, with several computers/monitors set up, a router and wireless card. Haven't thrown anything off the table yet...but then again my Bounder rides real smooth with little side to side motion.
Don't own the Allegro 36LA yet...but it is at the top of our list for our next motorhome. Waiting now for Tiffin to release the 2014 build sheet so we can see what new options were put on it...hopefully outside entertainment...and maybe a residential fridge?? We were at FMCA's Indy rally last Aug and saw all the rear bath 36 ft center "L" couch motorhomes. Of all the Fleetwoods, Tiffins, Newmars and Monacos...only the Tiffin came on a 24klb chassis...and had a 252 inch wheelbase.
Best price quote I have so far is $109,900 on a $145,000 retail 2013 model from Lazydays.