RE: loss
I must be in the minority. I never buy anything with thought of gaining or losing money. I use the value of my equipment clear up. Had my last 5er for over 12 years. It was quite nice but worth very little. I plan on having this one for a long time as well. It will be nworth very little when I'm finshed with it (relatively speaking). I always modify the things I don't like in order to make it something I do like. Nothing is perfect right out of the box, but mine is pretty darn nice at this point, with a few more mods to come.
I get my money's worth.
RE: Keystone Cougar poor design
Been away for a few months now. Obviously nothing has changed with the mouthy few. Oh well...
Indeed it does sound like a poor design. Without pics, it would be hard to offer viable suggestions. However, the propane area needs to remain open for safety reasons. Maybe a thin piece or two of sheet metal over the exposed particle board, with sealant, would help protect wood areas. I did this to the old man's motor home sometime back. Just cut pieces to fit, then sealed it up best as I could. No problems yet.
My landing gear has small openings around them. Jayco simply used expanding foam to close up the gaps. Might work for you as well.
Cheers,
Mark
RE: newbe, leveling side to side
I guess most folks don't read so well. Hard to believe how hard people want make things. You can easily jack up each axle at the point of attachment to the spring (jack on the plate, not the axle tube). No, you will not hurt a thing. Stick your board under the tire, and do the other one. You won't stress a landing gear either.
RE: Paint for molding?
I wouldn't remove it to paint it. Then you have to reseal it when reinstalling. If it's the rubber insert in an aluminum frame, remove the ribbon, mask the frame, scuff, and paint with any good enamel (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc...). Then buy and install new rubber insert. If no rubber, just mask, scuff and paint the entire molding. Good as new.
RE: Another closed topic
I think Sharon has a valid issue with this BBS, although it is a well known issue. I have experienced it many times myself. I have yet to see any topic actually stay on topic. I have asked for advice on "how to" for several subjects, only to see the topic to degrade into why I'm an idiot for wanting to do it (see my post history if you wish). I have even griped about it on occasion when it happens. But you get what you pay for here, so if I know that it's going to happen, it is my choice to post an inquiry or not. I still post, because after wading through all the BS, the advice is usually there somewhere. My choice.
As far as kidding or joking, I have no real opinion. I have thick skin and I’m not afraid to shoot it right back at you. But I realize some people are not so thick. The trick is to know when to joke around and when not to. It usually isn’t too difficult to tell the direction the OP wants to go. What can be difficult is using restraint when you really really want to give someone a time.
For example: just know that all people from New York are serious as a stroke. Don’t EVER joke with em. And folks from Michigan can’t get serious for any reason. That stuff is over their head.
Signed: a real live West Virginia redneck barefoot hillbilly.
Y’all have a great evening.
RE: Roof Sealant cracking - dealer or self?
Another vote for Eternabond. Tube sealant is, at best, temporary. Eternabond is some seriously good stuff and will last a very long time. I would ask the dealer to do it with EB.
RE: 2008 Jayco Superlite 30.5 RLS wall leaks
Sorry. Superlite owner, just haven't had any problems like that. At least they are attempting to make it right (or so it sounds).
RE: 2" Flexable Duct Source
Thank you Twomed. I must have used the wrong combination of words. I live by Google, but occasionally I get stumped. Anyway, I have ordered a 25 ft section. More than I needed, but I'll find a use for it somewhere else.
Reducing the diameter of this duct will not cause a fire. I will tee off the 4" with two 2"- one will enter into the living room and the other to the bedroom.
Reason #2 is also a big deal. The 4" duct takes up a decent chunk of head space in the basement. 2" will be almost un-noticable.
Personally, if I had my way, I would have taken the entire thing out of the bedroom. We like it cold to sleep. She was just afraid that zero might be a bit too cool. I will put an adjustable outlet in anyway, in case I don't want ANY flow.
I have a full metalworking machine shop ( lathe, mill, brake, etc...)and a full blown wood shop as well. I will have no trouble making reducers and hangers for the 2".
Thanks again for the replies. Issue solved. Mods, feel free to do your thing to this thread.
2" Flexable Duct Source
I am in process of changing the flexable duct from the furnace to the bedroom. There are two reason for this. First, The bedroom gets too hot, so I want to change it from 4" to 2" (like is in the bathroom). Second, I want to clean up the ductwork in the basement, and 2" will be much smaller down there, easier to conceal.
Problem is, I am having a hard time finding 2" flex. My HVAC guy says he can't (or won't) get it. I live in a small town, so I don't have unlimited sources. Shoot, I'm not even having a lot of luck on the Internet.
Anyone know where I might be able to score about eight-ten feet of 2" flex? Doesn't even need to be insulated. How about an actual heating duct alternative?
THX,
Mark
RE: decorate your 5th wheels
No pics to access here at work, but we always make our house our home. One of the easiest ways to keep things updated is with cork boards. We hang a couple of decent sized boards in strategic places (quite light) and then pin photos on them. We are always changing and updating the collage as the grandsons get older or we visit cool places... or if I just happen to take an excellent picture of the DW! It is ever evolving.
Otherwise, a few little plaques over the doors, an antique fishing rod and reel in the space over the slide (with the line running across the ceiling to an antique lure) and new lighting fixtures make the place way more comfy.
Yes, the light fixtures make a huge difference. We get ours from the big box store or electric supply house. You can buy low voltage track lighting and then don't use the ballast part. I have replaced several of the nasty plastic "RV" fixture with hanging lamps from the ceiling. They do not sway much while moving- I keep the cord or chain short. I do however check the globe screws after every trip.
It's the little things.
Edited for spelling.
RE: Do You Talk To Your GPS?
We both talk to Karen (she's Australian) quite often. And since she is NOT unfaultable, the DW always has her back with a map in the lap.
The nice part about talking to or yelling at an inanimate objects is that it cannot yell back, and you will win every argument, every time. Nut house? Maybe, but I'll have plenty of company, of that I'm certain.
RE: Top things learned from reading RV Net
I've learned that this is one of the best time killers on the Internet. I can read this stuff all day long and never tire of my facination of the people that write it (myself included).
RE: Changing air
I have found that a couple of things affect the need and timing of changing air in the fridge. Please note that these things can affect the house type refrigerator as well.
1. Cold air works best for changing, but warm air WILL work. It is imperative, however, to keep the door closed longer if using warm air. The air cannot do it's job in a short amount of time unless it is 38 degrees or cooler.
2. Kids will change the air in a refrigerator many times a day, and without being asked. No one knows why this phenomenon occurs; kids rarely do anything without being asked or threatened, but they will change refrigerator air on their own. Note. Sometimes kids get so involved in air changing, they must be made to stop. You should watch for signs of children over changing the air.
3. Along the same lines, if air is changed to often in a non frost free refrigerator, it may become necessary to defrost it more often. This is especially true in humid climates when moist air is changed. If using dryer air, this may or may not become an issue.
3. Baking Soda keeps you from having to change the air quite as often, though after a certain number of air change cycles, the baking soda must be changed along with one of the air changes.
4. Air changing late at night can cause a person to become enlarged. It has been reported that many late night air changers appear to be overweight, but the jury is still out on that issue.
5. If for some reason, the air in your fridge is not changed often enough, go to the local store and purchase you husband or wife large quantities of beer. Store the beer in the refrigerator for a sufficient period of time to cool, and then tell your partner what you have done. Almost undoubtedly, the air will get changed many times during a given evening; enough that the air change cycles may not be counted against changing the baking soda (see #3).
RE: Emergency Breakaway Cable Works!
I too shortened mine up to fit the hitch. I also installed an eyebolt in an existing hole just below the release handle. With the Super Glide the cable length never changes, as the hitch goes with the trailer.
RE: Teflon plate - Am I missing something?
It's ridiculous to state that a four way hitch is unsafe. Nothing could be further from the truth. However, I have found that the side to side pivot point bolts should be snug to the point that the hitch plate stays in the last position it was in when it was disconnected. The truck will 99.9% of the time be re-hitching in exactly the same orientation, so the hitchplate will already be oriented with the kingpin (side to side).
It is also fairly ridiculous to compare almost anything a “big rig” does versus what we do. There is a hell of a difference in carrying 15-20% of the towed weight (and relatively light weight at that for almost all 5er’s) on our puny little stamped sheet metal hitches and carrying 40-50% of the weight on tandem axle and a 24” or so hitch plate (nor sure of actual dimension), and very heavy weights to boot, measured in the tens of thousands of pounds. Sorry to bust the man (or woman) bubble, but we do not compare with big rig guys in any way other than the basic theory of over the axle towing.
I have had a two way hitch, but much prefer a four way. If anyone can show me a valid and substantiated reason to change for safety reasons, I’ll certainly consider it. And I have used the Delrin disc with success ( I have a Super Glide now, so I have different lube issues). I did however like the cleanliness associated with hitch removal and installation. And I had no hitching or chucking issues with my setup.
If you haven’t tried the disc, you might consider it for a 10 dollar experiment. And if you have used one and didn’t like it, no sweat. The world will not run out of grease for you for a very long time. :B
RE: Is five inches enough?
Please link to or explain where 3 degrees nose down comes from. I keep a tongue trailer level or a shade nose down, but not my 5er. It's a inch or two high and tows like it isn't even behind me.
Just curious where this rule originates.
RE: Kingpin movement hole size 1/16 bigger than bolt size!
You may go for grade 8 bolts if you wish, but grade 5 is plenty of bolt for the application. Yield strength of grade 5 is 90,000 –120,000 PSI, whereas grade 8 is around 150,000 PSI. It would be impossible to shear four (per side) properly sized and torqued grade 5 bolts on your 5th. You could pull the trailer all day with the wheels locked up solid and they wouldn’t budge. In fact, if the pinbox would stay in the correct orientation, only a couple of bolts (on each side) would suffice on all but maybe the heaviest unit.
However, the bolt must be sized to the hole to prevent premature wear. If your hole is 11/16”, the bolt too must be 11/16 (kind of an odd size though). All bolt sizes are cut to match the hole diameter, so a ½” bolt fits a ½” hole perfectly, with very little play. You should not go down a size bolt to hole.
From the photo it is apparent that whomever installed the pinbox used the wrong sized bolt. There should be very little play in the box, especially with all four bolts installed. My pinbox bolts have always been ½” (3/4” socket/ wrench), but I guess everything is downsizing these days.
RE: Axel Bearing Grease recomendations
Both guys are right above. Most bearing grease is good grease. Just go to Auto Zone or Advance and get a tub of wheel bearing grease. Job done. And even the waterproof boat trailer grease will work just fine. It has the same high pressure duty as the others, but with added water repellents. No rocket science.
RE: New to Rving What will my 02 Silverado tow
Don't know about your specific weights, but I too am quite satisfied with my 6.0 gasser. And I too have many reasons NOT to have a diesel. Just don't freak out about winding your little gasser engine up in the 3500-5000 RPM power band. It may sound like it's going to come unglued, but it won't. The computer is smarter than we are; it won't let it do what it won't do. Keep the revs up and you'll be fine. I wouldn't suggest a massive trailer, but what you want will probably be fine.
Go for it!
