I am sorry... I have failed you... It was cold enough at the track this weekend, there was absolutely no need for A/C. So, no need to run the Generator for several hours. No real load to put on it. Nothing to report. maybe before long, I can run a couple space heaters off the generator as a test. lol.
Final points race this weekend... looking forward to that. Youngest son has his first Football Game tomorrow, and oldest son starts his soccer season tonight. Busy weekend.
While at the track tomorrow, going to experiment as I think we may have figured out my Generator problem. When running right, and not chocked up with Ethenol leftovers... it will only run a couple hours or so then starts surging and eventually dies. i can restart it for a little while, but eventually does the same thing. I've tried a bunch o' stuff, but finally had the simplest possible solution suggested this past weekend. Let you know next week... But...
The Onan has a cute little fuel pump... The gas tank, being older as you know, has a vented gas cap. We think it is possible, the fuel pump doesn't have enough power, or doesn't create enough of a vacuum (or create it quick enough) in the tank for the cap vent to open. Going to try cracking the cap this weekend and see how long the generator runs.
Three things on the radiator:
1. Does it have a fan shroud? A lot of times, the OEM shroud gets broken or otherwise doesn't get replaced. The shroud is necessary to getting good airflow through the radiator.
2. The coolers in front of the radiator aren't helping. If you can get rid of them, or at least move them out of the way, do so.
Thinking about this step...
3. The person who re-cored the radiator may have used the wrong core or may have installed it incorrectly. (Did the overheat problem show up as soon as the radiator was installed or later?) Otherwise, something may be blocking some of the radiator tubes. Use an infrared thermometer to spot check various areas on the radiator's surface to make sure coolant is flowing through all the radiator. (I'm not sure but I'd guess there shouldn't be more than 10 or 20 degrees difference between areas.)
Haven't hit anything but the top with a gun yet, but I've had the problem since day one. The radiator was recored by Weller Automotive.
As for the cabover, I don't have a garage so I do most of my work outdoors in the summer. Being in interior Alaska, that means 3-5 months maximum, with large tarps when it rains (about half the time). I tend to build small components in the winter in my 12'x12' shop or house and assemble them outdoors during the summer. (I'm working on getting more space but will still need to work outdoors sometimes.) I also have to plan for cooler temperatures (below freezing) because some materials don't cure as well.
I am in the same boat. Without a garage or indoor workspace, it's hard to do large projects. Worse... we really use ours all 'season' long. From the time the snow melts, until it starts falling again. We definitely have gotten our camping money's worth from the RV.
Been doing a bit of camping, a bit of racing, and working on little tasks here and there. Got my fridge 'latch' to actually hold the door closed when traveling. No more surprise spills. Fixed the short issue on the passenger side of the coach. Had to entirely remove the TV antenna to do it. Took much longer than expected, but it's nice having light. Still having problems with the Antenna/booster and getting power up to it. Not sure what's happening there. Replaced the thermostat to try and cure a problem running hot. Was fortunate enough to figure out I needed a special Skirted Thermostat. It helped... but only up to about 50 mph. As soon as we got on a freeway, it shot up again. Temp reading at the radiator are around 230. Thinking now we have an airflow problem. Engine was rebuilt a few years back, the radiator was re cored shortly after. There is a transmission cooler and the A/C Cooler in front of the engine radiator... We never use the AC though.. still confused. Resealed a Seam on the roof... fixed the ladder that was pulling out... remodeled the bathroom... again... thought I had the Onan fixed and running right... (nope). Unfortunately, I need to rebuild the cab over.. not sure I want to tackle that. don't have a place I can really do it... don't have the money to pay someone else... that is my biggest quandary...
What motor do you have? I have not seen it listed. Here is what I recently ran into...
When I first bought my RV... third or fourth hand... it ran waaaaay hot... overheated on the way home, etc. Once home, we didn't drive it much as we use it as base camp when racing, and it typically stays in the campground. We remodeled it... then rebuilt the engine. Had the Radiator rebuilt shortly after. Still, always ran on the hot side but tolerable. This year it started running 'too' hot again, So I started investigating and eventually decided to replace the thermostat. Because nothing else has been cut and dry in my experience, I did some research. Sure enough... the Thermostat in my RV motor was 'special' and does not come up in the listing for the engine. There was supposedly a sticker at one time on the air cleaner explaining this, but it has been long gone. The descriptions of what happens with the 'wrong' or recommended Thermostat from the parts store described my experience perfectly, so I took and chance, and ordered the special "skirted" thermostat as a replacement. (No one had one in stock) When I did the work, sure enough, it had a regular open thermostat installed. Essentially, when new, fresh, and clean, the open thermostat will get you by for a little while, (still on the hot side) but as the antifreeze, the engine, and the radiator gunk up, it will no longer suffice and eventually overheat.
I JUST did the work yesterday... testing in the driveway, seemed to solve the problem. First real test will be tomorrow when I drive it back to the racetrack campground. But... if you have tried everything else, might want to look into this as well.
I really hate dealing with Electrical... It's not my strong suit... So, I always dread it. I'm glad this one will work out on the easy scale.
I may not have been clear on the extra breaker... The 120 side has space for three 'normal' house size 'plug in' breakers. One was a 30 amp for the overall house system, which left 2 for the rest of the house. One was a 20 amp GFI for the exterior outlet and the bathroom... the other 20 amp had everything else. When turning on the air conditioner you could hear it starving for power. I found a 'plug in' breaker with 2 20 amp breakers in it. So I now have that in place which allowed me to put the Air Conditioner on it's own 20 Amp Circuit making it much happier when it is turned on. Does that make better sense? I can take a picture for you if you'd like.
To touch base on a few of your other comments... I understand. I do IT for a living. We're often judged by what we know and what we can figure out making it really hard to ask for opinions... especially when it's something simple. I frequently try and break this habit using examples of not being able to see the forest through the trees. Its very common for someone to be so deep in a project or troubleshooting that the answer is several layers back... but it's not on you mind because you're past it. I have many stories on the topic where guys could have saved hours... and even days... by simply asking an outside person for their thoughts. So... lead by example... lol, I ask. :P
Good news... But I'll answer your questions first.
The fuses are located in a single unit with the 120, and the battery charger. The unit was high end it its day, and monitors the battery charge so it doesn't constantly push full charge to the battery. Anyway, it has three AC fuses (except I bought one of those dual breakers so I could put the A/C on its own breaker, and 6 DC fuses... Only 4 are actually in use. They are the small glass tube style.
Moving on, I had a small epiphany earlier today, and did a little additional testing and was able to locate the source of the short. It is NOT on the 'hot' DC wire as I originally thought. It is actually the powered coax cable going up to the antenna. I disconnected it and tested everything else successfully. I remembered towards the end of last year having problems with TV reception and noticed the coax (after 30+ years) was a bit worse for wear. This is great as replacing that is a rather short, and should be a fairly easy pull for a replacement cable. Should have it worked out before the weekend even with my busy schedule. I am being rushed out the door to a soccer game... So any questions, or follow up clarifications, let me know... I am relieved. Yes... You were very good picking up on a level of frustration. :)
The Fuse box is about 2-3 feat behind the rear axle on the drivers side. The wire runs from there back into the wall... to never Reappear. The Lights and Outlets it powers are along the passenger side wall. The Antenna power booster, DC Outlet, and light directly under the window between the passenger door and the camper entrance door... and the exterior light. I honestly have no idea how/were that wire is run from one side of the camper to the other. I have no idea how long the actual wire is because I have no clue what path it is taking to get there. Straight line in the coach is 10-15 feet between... but being opposite sides, who knows the run. It has to be the longest run, and of course... therefor... the most likely to have developed a problem. Simple in concept. Will be difficult to complete. I'm not looking forward to it, and if I had extra $$$ would happily pay someone much more 'professional' than I.
When you rewired... say... your MH. Did you try and pull a new wire through the old path? (Say... using the current wire) Or, did you reroute a new wire? I know what end result needs to be, but don't have the experience to know the best path to take. (Thanks)
I have been printing the information off to reference later... Good info.
I finally had a chance to do a little testing on my DC problem, and have narrowed it down to one wire. Unfortunately, the 'hot' seems to have shorted out somewhere.... Dang it. There is maybe a foot of it visible before it disappears into the wall and routing to the opposite corner of the RV. Taking suggestions as to what might be the best way to get a new wire to the destination. Anyone with experience with this?
On a side note, another things that rankles me is some people just keep throwing new parts at a problem until something (hopefully) fixes the problem ... in the worst cases they would have been money ahead to just buy a different car.
...aaaaand that's why I stopped working on the RV for a while. Financially at this point, if we want to keep camping, I have to start doing something again.
Start small... big projects later... biding time on a few of them.
Thanks Again Griff.
To answer one of your questions. Same difference on the DC lights/Outlets regardless of being Battery only or on shore power. Once I get it back in my driveway, or have some time at the campground, we'll get to work. Knowing I can run a new ground if needed (which I thought and was hopeful) will definitely make things easier.
Go away for a few hours, and see what happens?
Griff, I wasn't working on the RV, but we were still using it very regularly. Currently, the RV is at a campground. I have a busy couple of weeks and knew I wasn't going to have time to work on it, but wanted to try and gather some resources and develop a plan. I don't know current volts on the battery, but 5/6 of the lights in the RV work fine, water pump is good, the 12v fan in the bathroom works when shore power is disconnected. The charge indicator on my converter isn't lit at the moment, so I'm not sure the battery is currently charging when connected.
One question in my mind... is it easier/better to run a completely NEW ground for a circuit, or try and fish out, and correct/repair the current. (If that is in deed the issue).
Thanks Tree Seeker, I've seen a couple of those already, and really don't get me where I want to be. They are mostly about batteries... not the wiring itself. Maybe someone has previous experience or advice on the subject. All the wiring is, of course, hidden. In walls, ceilings, panels, etc. One of the items I can't seem to find, is how the DC works. My thought is it grounds to the Frame... but I really can't find a confirmation. If that is the case... Can't I just run new grounds to the frame? Does that cause problems? I can't 'find' where the current DC is connected to the frame anywhere... maybe that too is inside the wall? What is the accepted means to add a new ground? How do I get it to the frame? If the Engine battery is grounded to the frame... and the house batter is grounded to the frame... wouldn't that cause some weird problem/hazard?
Since I am back to working on the old girl, I once again have a few questions.
Next project I need to take on, is my DC seems to be taking a dump. It started with an interior, and the exterior light. Then included a DC power source and the TV antennae booster... now it seems to have crept to the other side and taken out the other DC power source...
All fuses are good. I'm thinking they simply lost ground. But... I'm not much into electrical. So, what is a good procedure to test/repair?
On a side note... Part of why I had disappeared from the forum for a while was lack of funds to do anything. Another victim of the economy... ended up letting a number of things go. Still having problems getting extra $$$ to get the parts, be decided I wanted to keep the old RV going. I became rather discouraged when I discovered I need to do a lot of work in the cab over area. Not sure how, where, or when to tackle that... still debating really. But either way, I need to get electrical working properly.
It's been a long time... had some time this afternoon, so I thought I'd pop in and catch up. Do a little light reading.
Hate to ask... but I never saw a resolution... Trish?
Also, WhiteKnight seems to have become a recluse as well.