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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: rear vu camera
I've looking for a system to install in a minivan. You'll find a ton of vendors selling monitors on ebay.
Might also look at tadi brothers...link below.
vendor selling monitors
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fcooper
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11/28/09 06:43pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Conect the water hose ends or not? Which is Best?
I'm in the drain and connect camp also. Flush with water before final connection to rv. No problems so far. Hoses are several years old.
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fcooper
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11/28/09 06:01pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Voltage Controllers/Regulators - Motorhome
We also have the Progressive Industries hard wired 50 amp model. I wired it downstream of the transfer switch for protection from bad campground power or bad power from the generator. It will not cure high or low voltage, but it will protect the coach by dropping electric service to the coach if the voltage exceeds preset limits. It will also identify most wiring problems in the campground pedestal. We just returned from a trip where we encountered bad campground power. I believe it was a loose terminal in the campground pedestal. When the front heat pump (leg 1 in motorhome) tried to start, the voltage went low and the progressive unit dropped power to the coach to protect the heat pump. Without the Progressive unit, we would have continued to use the heat pump and might have damaged it in the process. We shut down the front heat pump and used the rear one (leg 2) with no problem. Both heat pumps work fine on the genset. We've had many other times where the Progressive unit drops power when the campground power goes under or over voltage.
Hope this info helps.
Fred
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fcooper
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11/24/09 06:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Check Engine code J1939
Your profile indicates:
2008 Forestriver Berkshire 36QS Freightliner XC Chasis
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I don't know about the 2007 or 2008 Freightliner Chassis, but on my 2000 Freightliner Chassis, the engine and transmission computer send data to a VDC (vehicle data computer). Your code came through the VDC.
Your system will be different than what I understand, but my first guess would be to find the connectors for these systems, disconnect them, clean with deoxit, and reinstall. Probably minor corrosion.
I'd call Freightliner help desk as a first step. It'll cost nothing and you may get a way to solve your problem easily.
1-800-FTL-HELP
Fred
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fcooper
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11/24/09 07:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What To Use To Check Electrical Before Hookup
Just checking the power setup before you plug into the power only solves part of the problem. Over or under voltages can be very bad on your coach's electronics and air conditioners. I installed a Progressive Industries hard wired 50amp surge protector that will check the power automatically before passing it into the coach, and also drop the power if goes over or under voltage to protect the coach. You'd be surprised how often this feature activates in overloaded campground electrical systems. I installed mine downstream of the transfer switch to protect from campground power and also generator over/under voltages.
Link to Progressive industries 50 amp hardwired unit is below.
link to progressive hw50C
Look at 3rd item down in the list.
I've used mine for years and have been very satisfied with the protection provided. ....Fred
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fcooper
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11/17/09 05:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 255/80/22.5 VS 275/70/22.5 question
I replaced my xrv 255x80x22.5 with Sumitomo 727 tires in the 275/70R22.5 size. All the specs fit my rims and dual spacing. Tire is slightly wider, but best part is the new tires make 549 revs/mile where the old tires made 541 revs/mile, so the speedometer error is so small that I can't detect a difference. Checked both with the GPS.
The load range H vs the G's I removed gives more load carrying ability and/or the ability to run less tire pressure for better ride. Pleased so far with the tires, ride, and handling.
You should not have a problem with the 275x70x22.5 on the front. They even worked for me on the duals.
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fcooper
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11/17/09 07:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do U use cruise control with the exhaust brake switch ON?
No. My cruise won't work with it on, and I also prefer to manually control it anyway.
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fcooper
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11/08/09 05:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anemic Dash Heat
If you have the motor aid hot water feature where engine coolant heats the hot water heater while you're driving down the road, then look for a valve that can turn off the motor aid hot water. This will provide more heat to the dash heater.
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fcooper
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11/07/09 08:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: mpg on diesel?
I agree with prevous post about the 4 speed transmission. Drove one of those when we were upgrading from gasser, and did not like the 4 speed. Also that coach you're looking at has the old style freightliner dash that is all one integrated piece. If you lose a guage on it, you can't just replace the guage, you have to replace the entire panel (much $$).
On my 2000 HR Endeavor 330 cat 6 speed allison towing 4400 lb toad I've averaged 8.45 mpg over 33,000 miles running about 64 to 65 mph. This also includes fuel used by the diesel genset, and it is running at least 70% of the time.
Good luck with your adventure.
Fred
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fcooper
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11/06/09 05:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Installing Koni Shocks
ROYBUCK
I don't know what chassis you have. The below notes are from my koni fsd install on my 2000 HR Endeavor built on a Freightliner XC chassis. I hope this helps....Fred
Use jack stands in place before working under the coach. The job can be done without an impact wrench, but the impact wrench sure makes the job easier.
front shocks: Top bolts...used box end wrench and ratchet (long arm), and was fairly easy to remove. Bottom bolt/nuts were difficult to break loose....used a 4 ft pipe over the long arm ratchet. Once broken loose, the electric impact worked hard to get the nut off the bolt. Bottom ones required 1/2 height on jacks and turning the wheel to get straight on access to the bottom bolt.
rear shocks: I would suggest not attempting rear shock removal/replacement without having a helper and an impact wrench. This method leaves the wheels on the motorhome. Placed wood blocks under the jacks and then used the jacks to get the motorhome up. Actually had the rear wheels about 3 inches off the ground. Had to work over top of wheel to remove top bolts. Not enough room to get both arms in there (unless you have very long arms), so one person holds wrench on one end and other person uses cheater bar to break it loose. Once broken loose with cheater bar, impact wrench made quick work of removal. Bottom bolt removal was the same. Took about 1.5 hours for us to replace both rear shocks.
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fcooper
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11/06/09 05:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need Help Fog Lights 2000 H R Endeavor DP-SOLUTION POSTED
Just wanted to post the solution in case it may help someone else down the road..
My problem was a bad relay. There is a fuse/relay box in the cargo bin directly below the driver seat. In this box are several relay's, clearly labeled, and all the same relay number. In addition, there was one more relay at the end of a wiring bundle that was not part of the original design of the fuse/relay printed circuit board. This wiring bundle was routed into the bottom of the fuse/relay box. Only after removing the relay did I find a label on the wrong side of the relay socket identifying the relay as being for fog lights.
Installed a new relay and it works as it should.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Fred
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fcooper
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11/06/09 09:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: tires
You might ask for a quote from SOS tire co, Garden City/Savannah, Ga
In July, I replaced tires with Sumitomo 727 tires in the 275/70R22.5 size load range H.
Cost at SOS tire was $2310 mounted/balanced/junk fees for 6 tires.
Regarding the rv tires having more resistance to cracking, I'm not sure that I believe that. The two Bridgestones I removed from the front had no cracking (truck tires) and the 4 michelin XRV's from the back (rv tires) had cracking. Same motorhome...same environment, roughly same age. Just my opinion and my experience, your mileage may vary.
I also got a good price quote on continental tires in Savannah (also garden city) but could not find anyone using on a motorhome. After installing the Sumitomo's, I read of several others using them on motorhomes with good results. Sorry, don't remember the continental dealer's name.
Good luck. At least we only have to do this every 5 to 7 years or so.
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fcooper
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11/04/09 05:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie Lacy here....setting the jacks
Snowfether wrote
"My coach has air suspension which means air bags, right? No jacks for levelling? "
You can certainly have jacks with air suspension. My coach has air bag suspension with leveling jacks.
I think you just got the ignition key in the wrong position, or have the parking brake off.
Let us know when you get the solution. Enjoy the learning and the new coach. We've all been through this.
Fred
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fcooper
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11/04/09 05:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inaccurate oil gauge?
I suspect you have freightliner guages, and they are all run from a common bus. Freightliner commonly supplied the guages. The same wires (in series) go to all guages. On some cummins engines, the oil pressure sending unit is simply a switch, which goes on at 5 psi. With the switch on, the cummins computer sends a 55 psi signal to the gauge. This agrees with what JohnnyT sees on his spartan chassis as stated above. The sending unit and delivery of the signal to the vehicle data computer is cummins. After that, it's freightliner's delivery of data to the gauges.
Why yours is fluctuating to a higher maximum reading is a mystery.
Let us know what you find.
Fred
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fcooper
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11/01/09 07:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What your YOUR top pick be for...
Agree with chuckster, the longer the better.
After a few days on the road, my 38 ft begins to shrink and looks smaller inside. :=)
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fcooper
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11/01/09 07:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Frustrating battery problem
Just a guess, but sounds like your engine and your genset crank off the engine cranking batteries, which were a little low. After cranking the engine using the AUX switch which links the house batteries to the cranking batteries, the alternator quickly put a charge back into the cranking batteries.
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fcooper
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11/01/09 03:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winterizing question
I'd suggest turning the hot water bypass to the "bypass" position, and pumping the hot water lines full of antifreeze also. Place a bucket under the washer/dryer faucets and open them allowing pink antifreeze to pump into them also. If you have a washer installed, might want to run it through a short pump then spin cycle to get antifreeze solution into the solenoid valves, etc.
For the ice maker, disconnect and drain the lines. Also cycle the ice maker (power on, remove cover from icemaker in refrig, and turn the gear until it cycles). After several cycles, all of the water should be out of the solenoid valve. Even better if you can blow some low pressure compressed air thru the solenoid valve as it is cycling.
Don't forget outside shower/water connections. Pour some antifreeze down all the drains to protect the traps from freezing.
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fcooper
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10/29/09 08:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toad Braking devices
$949 at rvupgradestore.com
$949 at towbarsunlimited.com
I know nothing about these companies, but found this via google search.
I have an older SMI Silent Partner that I've used for years. Their company support is very good.
Fred
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fcooper
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10/28/09 07:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake switch on a Freightliner chassis - where is it?
Here's how I would trouble shoot your problem. I normally don't have a helper so I try to find a way to do it all myself.
If you don't have a helper, rig a 12 volt dc buzzer (scrounge from junked car or buy at radio shack). Add long leads on the buzzer with clips. You probably need ignition on (or engine running) for brake lights to work so you may need that buzzer run up into the coach. Place one clip to a good ground connection, then touch other lead to switch to identify hot terminal (buzzer goes off). if no buzzer when touched to hot lead, you have a voltage supply problem or bad wires. Now remove clip from hot terminal and hook to the normally cold terminal. Now step on brake pedal and listed for the buzzer. If no buzzer, switch is defective.
Let us know what you find.
Fred
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fcooper
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10/28/09 05:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake switch on a Freightliner chassis - where is it?
On my 2000 Freightliner, the switch is attached to the bottom side of the brake pedal assembly. It is visible from under the coach, but a long stretch of the arm above you to work on it.
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fcooper
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10/28/09 05:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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