Thanks, assuming the second a/c is an option (didn't see it listed in the specs, but can't imagine it isn't), that would do.
Yikes, 35'... was hoping to stay smaller than that, even if it meant carrying the GW in the kitchen!
Been looking at toyhaulers for the past several months and have yet to find a floorplan-furniture setup that I like. I believe now that I'm going to go to a regular travel trailer and a Rampage motorcyle lift for the truck. I realize you said no truck but this is what I think is going to work for me.
We have preferences on floorplan-furniture, of course, but we're willing to compromise as necessary in those areas to make the other stuff work. The Rampage lift/regular travel trailer combination IS attractive-- but unfortunately, a pickup truck just won't work for us.
My experience so far is that, with no knowledge of the nomenclature used by the various manufacturers, I spend an awfully lot of time clicking on ads that turn out to be 5th wheels, not TT's. It also seems that most trailers have only one a/c, not the two I require.
I realize that a second a/c can sometimes be added. But, I have no idea which rigs are 50amp and which are 30amp-- and I assume that, like motorhomes, 50 amps is required to support two a/c's, and it's not usually feasible to convert a 30amp trailer to 50 amps?
We're experienced RV'ers (Class A, B, and C motorhomes) and former fulltimers, but have never owned a TT or fifth wheel. We've had some life changes and are now in the initial stages of considering a toyhauler TT. For various reasons, the following are non-negotiable:
1. TT, not a fifth wheel
2. Dual a/c's, preferably 15's, and otherwise hot weather capable
3. Island queen bed (no other beds required)
4. Capable of carrying a Honda Goldwing
Within those specs, we'd like to keep it as short as possible. We won't buy a tow vehicle until after we choose the trailer, but it won't be a pickup truck; probably a Ford Excursion or something similar.
I'm hoping some of you folks might be able to give us some direction as to what brands/models meet those specs. Price doesn't matter at this point, we're just trying to get a handle on what the possibilities are.
I've been running across this problem for a couple of decades now, best solution I've found:
1. Put the car in neutral, brake off, with the car running.
2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to the lock.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to the lock.
4. Turn the steering wheel back to center.
After doing this, the pins are usually easy to remove.
After thorough research, we satisfied ourselves that Honda pulled their sanction for towing post-2004 Odysseys (earlier models were approved) due to the concerns of lawyers and accountants, as opposed to engineers or mechanics.
So, we bought a new 2009 Odyssey, specifically to tow, and did so uneventfully for several years. We followed the same pre-tow procedure Honda recommends for the earlier models (ie, a three-minute warmup, followed by a shifting through all the gears, being sure to end up in N from D, not from R).
We'd still be towing it now, had we not had to give up RV'ing due to health issues. We still have the Odyssey, though, and other than a couple of holes in the grille where the baseplate was removed, it doesn't seem to have suffered any ill effects.
I still have the Blue Ox baseplate, if you'd rather have that than the Stowmaster (pretty sure it fits the 2010, although you'd want to check with Blue Ox to be sure). If you're interested in that, or just have some questions, drop me your phone number via a PM and I'll give you a call.