Pullrite has a couple of flatbed hitches, one 10.5" and another adjustable 10.5 - 13.5. I have no experience with them.
If you use PVC schedule 40, be aware that there are at least two kinds of 4" PVC schedule 40. When I built my house 25 years ago, you just went to the home store and got the PVC. Now someone has decided we needed a lighter product and is making a foam filled 4" PVC schedule 40. Unfortunately, it will turn to an oval if you stand on it where the original product would hold its shape. You may have to go to a plumbing supply to get the good stuff. I got the bad stuff at Lowes. I buried 100' of the 4" schedule 40 foam filled PVC under a heavy traffic load area before I figured this out.
Just a couple of points about the Glock.
1. It is light and because of this may have more felt recoil.
2. There is no traditional safety switch, only the integrated trigger pull safety. If you cannot find a suitable Glock holster for your needs or you prefer not to use a holster, you may find yourself not keeping a round in the chamber. It is not a gun I feel comfortable with just keeping loose in a pants or jacket pocket unless the chamber is empty. I suspect the same hazards exist for keeping it loose in a purse. Of course, having to rack a round into the chamber may reduce the effectiveness of the weapon depending on the situation, particularly if you only have one hand free.
Not sure about your exact situation, but I use this antifreeze pump for both the city water connection and black tank flush.
When using on the city water connection, I have the water pump turned off and a faucet open in the bathroom.
I absolutely love it when the car in front of me slowly drives the full length of the merge / acceleration ramp then come to a full stop to wait for an opening in traffic.
Yes, this is why as my eyes are looking at the side mirror or back up the interstate, the copilots job is to focus on the ramp ahead to look out for these types and warn me about them.
Not sure what Fl city you're in, when I went to grad school in Gainesville FL, I bought a single wide mobile home that was already setup in a nice suburb type park where they park them long ways to the street and have nice yards. When I graduated, I sold it without moving it.
A FW and truck seems wrong here. That would be good if you where moving about a lot. Also, a good FW truck makes a lousy commuter vehicle. These need to be insured as well. Even when new, they can be like a second job.
Owning an RV and truck would seem like an unwise distraction from the demands of grad school. Forgive me for assuming this, but it sounds like you have a pile of cash and it is burning a hole in your pocket. Regardless of whether that is the case or you are talking debt, when you graduate and find a job in a new city, that is when you are going to need the money or access to debt. Grad school may just seem like a chore to you now, but it is a magic time full opportunities you will never have again.
I wish I had spent more time refining my studies and making more connections with potential employers while in school. For example, it was 1982, I had perfect grades with a Master of Computer Science degree, it was career day and all the employers were there. I grew up so poor that I was hungry for stability, I never even stopped at the Microsoft table, I went with IBM who spit me out three years ago so they could hire 4 Asians to take my place. Times are different now, but there is something like that Microsoft table in your situation, don't walk past it.
You have an operator problem.
The great thing about this site is that people are always willing to help others and I'm willing to learn. I have been driving manual cars, trucks and motorcycles since 1966, but I can't figure this one out. I would appreciate any advice you can give. I only have issues with one activity, backing the 10k fifth wheel uphill with a turn into the shed in my signature.
After pulling in from the right on the red line, the trailer is still stuck in the turn position somewhat. The truck and trailer weight want to roll downhill. The tail of the camper will have to move left while backing. The truck must be positioned in the road to allow this cut without hitting the rocks on the side.
2001 F350 DRW SuperCab
310-hp, 6.8-liter V-10
5-speed manual w/OD
3.73 Axle Ratio
The first gear ratio is 5.72, but the reverse is 5.24 which moves you noticeably faster. The 3.73 rear end (perhaps a poor choice for RVing) really get things going down the road at low rpm.
1. The truck and trailer driven downhill into position.
2. Left foot on clutch, right foot on brake, transmission put in reverse.
3. With this equipment and this situation, the engine will always stall out if you attempt to release the clutch at idle speed. This happens with slow or fast clutch releases.
4. So, engine rpm needs to be increased. I have had vehicles where the right foot could be slid over and slightly twisted to operate the gas before completely releasing the brake, but this truck does not lend itself to that approach as the brake is still too high and gas is real sensitive to over revving.
5. The right foot must be removed from the brake and put on the gas quickly. The right foot leaves the brake, the vehicle starts rolling downhill (not helpful), the combination of just the right rpm increase and just the right clutch release speed must be found quickly before the forward roll momentum takes over. The chart below shows what can happen:
6: Let's say you do find just the right combination to smoothly reverse this heavy vehicle forward momentum, then we move into the next phase. The increased rpm and the unfortunate gearing have you moving too fast for the task at hand. You must return the moving vehicle rpm closer to idle speed. Even then, the gearing has you going too fast. You take a second or two to see what you are doing and steer properly and before you know it you need more data than you can gather and process at that speed. You have no time to look at your front tire cutting into the rocks, or carefully judge the next needed turn or notice obstacles. You have to put the clutch and brake back on and start the whole process over again.
Thanks very much for any tips in this situation, I will not be able to buy a new truck for a while.
As a manual transmission owner, I can say I will never have another one where an RV is involved.
An RV frequently has to be backed into tight spaces, sometimes uphill. An automatic lets you creep a few inches when necessary at idle speed simply by using the brake. On a manual, reverse is typically a higher gear than first. Couple this with a high gear rear-end and regardless of your skill, backing a heavy load uphill becomes a "I need a third foot, bucking and stalling, clutch burning" ordeal. This typically makes you backup at a faster speed than is advisable and reduces your inclination to stop and check for obstacles.
I cannot speak from experience, I am only an onlooker. A few years ago I was looking for a so called B+ type unit and fell in love with the looks and design of the BT Cruiser. Unfortunately, with subsequent research, I learned Gulf Stream had a bad reputation when it came to quality. Is the reputation deserved? I cannot say.
There is an owners group here:
... but if you use e z lube you should do it every year. When you use this system how many pumps is a enough to pack your front and back bearing, and haw many more to blow your seal?
From my understanding, it is not necessarily a question of how many pumps, but other factors. In fact, if you have the other factors correct, you are encouraged to pump many, many times until you see fresh grease exiting in front.
Those factors are:
1. Axle should be warm from very recent travel.
2. Grease in tube should be relatively warm.
3. Air or electric grease pumps should not be used.
4. Wheel should be off-ground and slowly turned as grease is pumped.
5. Pump with slow steady action, not jerks.
All of this "Emergency Exit" talk makes me long for the days when motorhomes had a door on each end. The 1965 Ford Condor, for example:
The TV should be located so that the viewer looks straight ahead at the middle of the screen. All setups I have seen a straight ahead view is below the bottom of the screen or at the very bottom of the screen. Both of these situations must cause fatigue for the viewer.
Yes, they typically put the TV on top of the fireplace. Classic ergonomic office studies assume an upright viewer in a church pew type seat. With this assumption, you are right, it is too high. However, a more realistic situation would be a recliner or slouched in a sofa with a pillow or part of the sofa supporting the head. In this case the higher heights you are seeing would actually be preferred.
That would have been good, but it would have pushed the drain hole over too far. My plan is to empty all 3 tanks at once and then go directly to the campground dump station, so it will be empty most of the time and never left unsupervised when full.
Unfortunately, the RV parks that meet my more important requirements do not have sewer hookup. My RV has three 29 gallon tanks (87 gallons) and using the blue tote tank was a lot of work.
There are a couple of online tank providers like this one, but I chose to buy directly from the manufacturer of the one I wanted, Trionic, who I could deal directly with on the design. They have drawings that you can alter to show exactly where you want the threaded holes. I had two 2" holes (fill and vent) on top and a 3" drain hole on the side. You have to see what your truck bed looks like underneath to avoid cutting into the bed framing, exhaust, gas tank, etc. Both fill and vent have a threaded cap, the vent cap has a few small holes drilled in it to avoid unwanted pressure or vacuum but the entire vent cap will be removed to fill. These tanks are made custom for manufacturers and are likely to have odd notches in them like mine has. This tank has 3/8" thick walls, weighs 75 lbs., and is sunlight resistant.
The 2001 Ford bed only has a 56" flat part of the bed floor before it curves up for some reason. The rail is 20" high. Just by chance they had a 95 gallon that was 54" x 20" x 22.25". I slide it 1" over to give more room for the drain. I screwed some 5/4 composite lumber together and placed in the front to force the tank 2" out to avoid hitting the top rail. The straps are custom ordered from Strapworks.com. I could get 2" wide straps and custom order them to place the cam buckle where I wanted it (on top). They also sold the stainless footman loops and left the metal hooks off the Wire Hook Straps.
I placed some rubber runner material under the tank as my line-X is very abrasive.
The down pipe has a rubber joint so that I would not have to use a saw to remove the tank.
I wrapped some 1/4" thick rubber around the bottom valve and held it in place with a chain bolted to the truck body.