I absolutely love it when the car in front of me slowly drives the full length of the merge / acceleration ramp then come to a full stop to wait for an opening in traffic.
Yes, this is why as my eyes are looking at the side mirror or back up the interstate, the copilots job is to focus on the ramp ahead to look out for these types and warn me about them.
Not sure what Fl city you're in, when I went to grad school in Gainesville FL, I bought a single wide mobile home that was already setup in a nice suburb type park where they park them long ways to the street and have nice yards. When I graduated, I sold it without moving it.
A FW and truck seems wrong here. That would be good if you where moving about a lot. Also, a good FW truck makes a lousy commuter vehicle. These need to be insured as well. Even when new, they can be like a second job.
Owning an RV and truck would seem like an unwise distraction from the demands of grad school. Forgive me for assuming this, but it sounds like you have a pile of cash and it is burning a hole in your pocket. Regardless of whether that is the case or you are talking debt, when you graduate and find a job in a new city, that is when you are going to need the money or access to debt. Grad school may just seem like a chore to you now, but it is a magic time full opportunities you will never have again.
I wish I had spent more time refining my studies and making more connections with potential employers while in school. For example, it was 1982, I had perfect grades with a Master of Computer Science degree, it was career day and all the employers were there. I grew up so poor that I was hungry for stability, I never even stopped at the Microsoft table, I went with IBM who spit me out three years ago so they could hire 4 Asians to take my place. Times are different now, but there is something like that Microsoft table in your situation, don't walk past it.
You have an operator problem.
The great thing about this site is that people are always willing to help others and I'm willing to learn. I have been driving manual cars, trucks and motorcycles since 1966, but I can't figure this one out. I would appreciate any advice you can give. I only have issues with one activity, backing the 10k fifth wheel uphill with a turn into the shed in my signature.
After pulling in from the right on the red line, the trailer is still stuck in the turn position somewhat. The truck and trailer weight want to roll downhill. The tail of the camper will have to move left while backing. The truck must be positioned in the road to allow this cut without hitting the rocks on the side.
2001 F350 DRW SuperCab
310-hp, 6.8-liter V-10
5-speed manual w/OD
3.73 Axle Ratio
The first gear ratio is 5.72, but the reverse is 5.24 which moves you noticeably faster. The 3.73 rear end (perhaps a poor choice for RVing) really get things going down the road at low rpm.
1. The truck and trailer driven downhill into position.
2. Left foot on clutch, right foot on brake, transmission put in reverse.
3. With this equipment and this situation, the engine will always stall out if you attempt to release the clutch at idle speed. This happens with slow or fast clutch releases.
4. So, engine rpm needs to be increased. I have had vehicles where the right foot could be slid over and slightly twisted to operate the gas before completely releasing the brake, but this truck does not lend itself to that approach as the brake is still too high and gas is real sensitive to over revving.
5. The right foot must be removed from the brake and put on the gas quickly. The right foot leaves the brake, the vehicle starts rolling downhill (not helpful), the combination of just the right rpm increase and just the right clutch release speed must be found quickly before the forward roll momentum takes over. The chart below shows what can happen:
6: Let's say you do find just the right combination to smoothly reverse this heavy vehicle forward momentum, then we move into the next phase. The increased rpm and the unfortunate gearing have you moving too fast for the task at hand. You must return the moving vehicle rpm closer to idle speed. Even then, the gearing has you going too fast. You take a second or two to see what you are doing and steer properly and before you know it you need more data than you can gather and process at that speed. You have no time to look at your front tire cutting into the rocks, or carefully judge the next needed turn or notice obstacles. You have to put the clutch and brake back on and start the whole process over again.
Thanks very much for any tips in this situation, I will not be able to buy a new truck for a while.
As a manual transmission owner, I can say I will never have another one where an RV is involved.
An RV frequently has to be backed into tight spaces, sometimes uphill. An automatic lets you creep a few inches when necessary at idle speed simply by using the brake. On a manual, reverse is typically a higher gear than first. Couple this with a high gear rear-end and regardless of your skill, backing a heavy load uphill becomes a "I need a third foot, bucking and stalling, clutch burning" ordeal. This typically makes you backup at a faster speed than is advisable and reduces your inclination to stop and check for obstacles.
I cannot speak from experience, I am only an onlooker. A few years ago I was looking for a so called B+ type unit and fell in love with the looks and design of the BT Cruiser. Unfortunately, with subsequent research, I learned Gulf Stream had a bad reputation when it came to quality. Is the reputation deserved? I cannot say.
There is an owners group here:
... but if you use e z lube you should do it every year. When you use this system how many pumps is a enough to pack your front and back bearing, and haw many more to blow your seal?
From my understanding, it is not necessarily a question of how many pumps, but other factors. In fact, if you have the other factors correct, you are encouraged to pump many, many times until you see fresh grease exiting in front.
Those factors are:
1. Axle should be warm from very recent travel.
2. Grease in tube should be relatively warm.
3. Air or electric grease pumps should not be used.
4. Wheel should be off-ground and slowly turned as grease is pumped.
5. Pump with slow steady action, not jerks.
All of this "Emergency Exit" talk makes me long for the days when motorhomes had a door on each end. The 1965 Ford Condor, for example:
The TV should be located so that the viewer looks straight ahead at the middle of the screen. All setups I have seen a straight ahead view is below the bottom of the screen or at the very bottom of the screen. Both of these situations must cause fatigue for the viewer.
Yes, they typically put the TV on top of the fireplace. Classic ergonomic office studies assume an upright viewer in a church pew type seat. With this assumption, you are right, it is too high. However, a more realistic situation would be a recliner or slouched in a sofa with a pillow or part of the sofa supporting the head. In this case the higher heights you are seeing would actually be preferred.
That would have been good, but it would have pushed the drain hole over too far. My plan is to empty all 3 tanks at once and then go directly to the campground dump station, so it will be empty most of the time and never left unsupervised when full.
Unfortunately, the RV parks that meet my more important requirements do not have sewer hookup. My RV has three 29 gallon tanks (87 gallons) and using the blue tote tank was a lot of work.
There are a couple of online tank providers like this one, but I chose to buy directly from the manufacturer of the one I wanted, Trionic, who I could deal directly with on the design. They have drawings that you can alter to show exactly where you want the threaded holes. I had two 2" holes (fill and vent) on top and a 3" drain hole on the side. You have to see what your truck bed looks like underneath to avoid cutting into the bed framing, exhaust, gas tank, etc. Both fill and vent have a threaded cap, the vent cap has a few small holes drilled in it to avoid unwanted pressure or vacuum but the entire vent cap will be removed to fill. These tanks are made custom for manufacturers and are likely to have odd notches in them like mine has. This tank has 3/8" thick walls, weighs 75 lbs., and is sunlight resistant.
The 2001 Ford bed only has a 56" flat part of the bed floor before it curves up for some reason. The rail is 20" high. Just by chance they had a 95 gallon that was 54" x 20" x 22.25". I slide it 1" over to give more room for the drain. I screwed some 5/4 composite lumber together and placed in the front to force the tank 2" out to avoid hitting the top rail. The straps are custom ordered from Strapworks.com. I could get 2" wide straps and custom order them to place the cam buckle where I wanted it (on top). They also sold the stainless footman loops and left the metal hooks off the Wire Hook Straps.
I placed some rubber runner material under the tank as my line-X is very abrasive.
The down pipe has a rubber joint so that I would not have to use a saw to remove the tank.
I wrapped some 1/4" thick rubber around the bottom valve and held it in place with a chain bolted to the truck body.
Depending on the type of work you do, this is not an option for everyone, but something you should consider before remodeling your RV.
For many of us, our jobs have become entirely computer oriented, yet many cling to the 1950's office design which designed for writing on a table and filing paper. The upright "church pew" chair is considered part of the suffering, because, after all you are at work. There is also this idea that work or the office must be completely separate from the living area. This is too bad, because RVs need to employ dual use areas whenever possible. There is some evidence that working in a more reclined position is better for you back.
In the past, I have used recliner based offices in my RVs. A 46" TV makes a nice computer monitor or you could use your laptop in your lap. My current RV does not have a recliner, but I use the sofa bed, either in or out.
I altered my second bedroom AC to be powered by either the 50 amp service or the separate 20 amp plug when they only have 30 amp. I always use voltage meters when hooking up to insure the 20 amp is not just tapped off the 30 amp line.
Got the idea on this forum that transfer switches do not work with GFI 20 amp plugs because they keep the neutral and/or ground common. Someone here had achieved total circuit separation by using a receptacle/plug solution, and this is what I did.
In the bedroom closet I mounted a receptacle and ran the existing 50 amp power and the AC wire to it. The AC duct channel that was cut into the roof foam made it easy to run wire to the closet. The external 20 amp plug comes into the back of this box.
I used the plug that others have shown above. Although it may be overkill, I use this 10/3 cord on it. The round end fits nicely into the plug.
Some manufacturers, like mine, do not intend for the 2nd AC to be controlled by the external thermostat like the main AC, even if factory ordered like mine was. It is just operated manually. Is the Dometic thermostat you mentioned the same one that controls the main AC or is it a second thermostat in the room with the second AC?
This may be the case with yours.
I think I will stick with the all 12V solution and house battery. I will look at those quick disconnect things. Since it is fairly dry under the fifth wheel bedroom storage area where the battery is, maybe you could put a 12V receptacle through the front wall?
I wanted your opinions or experience on this:
I was considering using a converter and one of my fifth wheel external GFI 110v receptacles to power a 12V macerator. I see these macerators typically require 20amps. I think it would be more convenient than tapping off the truck or house batteries.
If this is OK, does anyone know of a good converter brand? When it comes to electrical devices that can cause a fire, I tend to go overkill on the wattage capacity and quality of the unit. In other words, I would not be looking for the cheapest one. I would want a portable unit.
thanks very much for any ideas,
I'm not the type to shop for the lowest price for brain surgery, Lasik eye surgery, or RV service. I like to find an experienced provider that uses quality parts and liquids and is not likely to have high turn-over employees.
It pays to get to know your service people by name and be nice to them. This Monday, I called John and made the service reservation. On Tuesday, I took the F350 gas dually to the Ford dealer where I bought it to do the oil change. While in the waiting room, the two other people in there both got the "I know you brought it in for this, but we found this wrong" speech. I didn't hear anything until time to pay my bill.
What I got:
Ford F1AZ-6731-BE oil filter
7 quarts MOTORCRAFT PREM SYN BLEND 5W20 oil
Multi point inspection
Brakes measured and checked
Tires checked and tread measured (they know I run a higher than normal PSI)
What I paid:
$0.00, Without a coupon or asking for it, they applied an Owner Advantage Credit