I went with these:
Yes, they're strap-ons, but I have crome mirror bezels and the plastic hardware and stretchy straps didn't leave any marks on them at all. My only complaint was the 'moaning' noise they made at-speed (they were NOISY!) but in terms of function, they were excellent.
Any of the ones that stick to the mirror glass itself will be pulling on the little plastic gears inside the mirror that drive the mechanism. They are not engineered to take those sorts of loads and will quickly fail. I would not recommend those solely for that reason.
Again, please explain how any part of the system knows whether it's level or parallel to any other thing. The bars are bent. It's geometrically impossible for them to be parallel to a straight frame rail.
Regarding your second point, look at the bar on BOTH sides of the cam, and both sides of the tongue. When making a turn, one cam moves forward, the other moves rearward. Yes, you are correct that the cam that moves to the rear is ramping up less of an incline. However, on the other side of the tongue, the bar is moving forward up a much steeper slope. Admittedly I haven't crunched the numbers, but I'd wager that the difference in correcting force between bars whose 'hook' on the contact point is more or less level compared to the force from bars with the angle seen in the OP's photo is pretty minimal.
I recall having a similar discussion here a couple months back... Someone found ONE manual somewhere which made a vague reference to the bars being parallel to the frame. (I think it was a round-bar from Blue-Ox, maybe?) None of the rest did, if my memory serves....
The angle of the bars to the frame is completely irrelevant IMHO. What matters is how much weight they are transferring, and that there is a minimum number of links under tension to provide adequate swing when the hitch head articulates during a turn.
Not to mention the geometry involved... The bars, by definition, are bent. How can a bent bar be parallel to a straight frame rail? If they appear to be 'sort-of-parallel' to the frame, then that's just a happy coincidence IMO.
80 isn't bad, but in case you didn't know, Ohio is FLAT. As in FLAT like a Pancake. (Until you get over near Youngstown anyways...) So the scenic last 6-8 hours of your trip home would be nothing but corn stubble. (Blech!!)
Personally, I'd stay south through Columbus. I've crossed that way heading towards North Carolina (and will be again next week, in fact!) and it was a pretty decent ride.
I am curious; if you add tongue weight to the back of a vehicle, you increase the weight on the rear axle and reduce the weight on the front axle.
If you add air bags you raise the rear, the vehicle will sit level but do you still have the same amount of weight on the rear axle? We know a WD hitch transfers weight to the front axle and back to the trailer.
So the question is do air assists act like a WD hitch or do they just mask the rear axle overload?
I'd say neither. The air suspension levels out the tow vehicle based on the load. Period. That's all it does. It is incapable of transferring any weight anywhere.
The WDH transfers soem portion of the tongue weight from the rear axle to the front and trailer axles. (The exact proportion varies slightly based on the TV wheelbase, rear overhang, and trailer tongue leigth.) That changes the load on all three (or four) axles and, with a conventional suspension, how much each axle squats.
So the air suspension doesn't really 'mask' anything, it simply adjusts independent of the axle weights. That's where your friendly local CAT scale comes in to help you dial in the setup. :)
I have a co-worker who had 9 to take. He used to do basically the same thing, but they would go in the aisle, right on the floor. He had fork mounts on a 2x6 that was attached to a piece of plywood cut to a space on the floor that it kind of wedged into and didn't move. He could have three bikes facing each way, essentially nose-to-nose and they stayed upright without scooting around that way. (The other three were smaller and bungee-corded to the others)
Some USB charged stuff needs a 2+amp supply to charge. If you connect it to a supply that is less capable, it may either:
A - Not charge at all OR
B - Burn out the supply. So you better know who needs what.
The Anker charger (and most of their iQ lineup) will detect what's plugged into it and charge it at the appropriate current. I have a couple of their products lying around, and can attest that they work FABULOUSLY!! THeir cables are heavy-duty and work well too!
We have managed to go micro-USB for all our current electronics; even my work iPhone (I bought a battery case that uses a micro-USB to charge both). We have a couple of dedicated chargers in the camper, both 12VDC and 120VAC so we're covered either way, and if we somehow manage to forget one of them, there's always a 12VDC charger in the truck as well that we can use in the camper. There's no efficiency to be gained by inverting 12VDC to 120VAC only to have a wall-wart step it back down to 5VDC.
That If the dry tongue weight is 655, that will likely put you north of 800lbs of actual tongue weight. 800lbs of tongue weight will add somewhere between 1000 and 1200lbs to the rear axle (tongue weight plus the weight transferred off the front axle).
Odds are Ford recommends a weight distributing hitch for anything more than 500 lbs of tongue weight. Is there a safety factor engineered into it? Probably. Will anything break in a 20 minute drive? Probably not. Would I do it? Not a chance. The rough setup of the hitch shouldn't take more than an hour following the instructions. If you don't have time to do that, wait until you do to make the pick-up. Seriously... It really is the right way to do it.
As someone already posted the OEM procedure, I won't beat that dead horse, save to say that's the way one should always set up their rig if air suspension is involved. Otherwise, there is no way to know how the WDH will impact the weight transfer.
Hensly or ProPride are the hands-down 'best' when it comes to performance. The design truly inhibits sway.
Any of the other sway-control hitch setups will be adequate at damping sway should it occur.
A friction sway control is, IMHO, at the bottom of the list for 'best'. That being said, they are perfectly adequate if set up properly.
There were several early-adopters of the Andersen on here a while back that posted a lot of data. The general consensus, IIRC, was that once the trailer gets north of the 5000lb mark, it had a difficult time transferring enough weight off the tongue to balance the weight distribution adequately. (There were also concerns with long-term wear and stresses applied to the coupler latch that, in my opinion, were never adequately resolved through some type of analytical testing on the part of the manufacturer... They designed a great component for their part, but their part is only one half of the system)
As a place to start, you're probably in the ball park.
That said, forget about how it looks... Scale it, crunch the numbers, and see what is really going on. $11-$12 and you'll know with confidence where you are.
You missed Cummins winking eye, I think he runs his rear DRW's at about 40 to 45 psi.
Sure did... The resolution on my phone screen is so good, it looked like a speck of dirt without my glasses on... we really need a sarcasm font... :)
X2 to BenK's post!!
Those that always run the MAX, are looking for fast center wear, and very low traction when wet, or dry for that matter.
The tires on my TV have a capacity of 13,660#, the TV has a GVWR of 8,800#, I do tow over the GVWR, but nowhere near 13,660#. I adjust the pressure according.
I NEVER tow with more than 70 psi in the rear tires, most times right at 65 psi. I am carrying 5,500# on tires with an 80 psi, rating of 6,830#
Aw you just don't understand!!!
It says 80 PSI on the tires that is what they should be ran at.;)
Before you start hurling insults, you should go read what it actually says on your tires. Generally, they say something along the lines of, 'Max load XXXX lbs at YY PSI.' The only tires I own that list a specific inflation pressure are on my wheelbarrow and bicycle.
There is a reason the entire industry used load versus inflation pressure tables to determine proper inflation pressures...
Great show and no drama like some other shows!
I can`t believe what some people will pay to have those restored? the last Spartan Manor they said was $100,000 after it was all done!
Every time I see that show, I think the same thing!! That Spartan Manor... wasn't that $100k on top of the $40k the owner spent to buy it?
Tow/Haul is a different setup than Overdrive Off. Tow/Haul also changes the shift points and line pressures to adjust the performance, whereas the older Overdrive Off buttons solely lock out overdrive without changing the rest of the shift characteristics.
Indeed they are very tongue-light. 16 or 20 foot trailers have tongues so light you can lift them by hand! They tow them with much smaller vehicles than we do...
Anyone else notice the lack of safety chains?
In general, if it'll hold OD without hunting, let it. It won't hurt the fuel economy either way. If it's hunting, turn the OD off and let it run in 3rd gear. It will still lock the torque converter in 3rd to minimize heat (assuming it can handle the load)
Generally speaking, the transmission is lubricated by the pump, which is driven by the input shaft to the transmission. If the engine isn't running, this is generally the problem. (Manual transmissions don't suffer the same issue because they are generally splash-lubricated). *some* vehicles can be towed for short distances at limited speeds without incurring any damage, which is why tow truck drivers can often get away with doing so.
Now, it's entirely possible that the Mazda engineers who designed the transmission have provided a different means of lubricating the internls with the engine off. I've heard of some transmissions whose tail bearings are splash-lubed, and it's entirely possible yours is one of them. I'd certainly put my faith in the engineers that designed the system over a tow truck driver any day!
Get yourself an ELM-27 OBD-2 bluetooth adapter off NewEgg or Amazon and spend the $6 for the Torque app for a smart-phone or tablet (assuming you have one, of course...) You can monitor the trans temps and check the code yourself when the light comes on and know with confidence what's triggering it. You can also monitor the torque converter slippage to help determine if that's happening/getting worse with time. (My guess is that it is) I've been watching mine for this issue for a while now (and I'm happy to report I've not experienced it thus far)