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 > Your search for posts made by 'gotsmart' found 173 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Buying a Rental Class C. How many of us out there? (Long)

The reason for $2,500+ worth of work is that the MH came with no service history. I needed to create a baseline to start from. In May 2013 I had the plugs and boots replaced for $350. The mechanic (he is a real mechanic and the shop owner - not some 'technician') said that all 10 of my coil packs were fine and did not need replacing. When the other shop wanted almost $1,000.00 to replace plugs, boots, and coil packs (their 'tuneup') I declined and got a second opinion.
gotsmart 03/27/15 06:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford E450 V-10 Engine HELP

Spark plug + boot + coil pack. Expect a coil pack to cost in the neighborhood of $75 USD. A spark plug boot is inexpensive. If you change a spark plug I recommend installing a new boot on it, even if the coil pack doesn't need to be changed.
gotsmart 03/21/15 10:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ultimate campground log website

Do you have to pay for it now? I can't get it to do anything on my iPad. http://theultimatecampgroundlog.com/tucglogmw.php It is $22.95 for Windows or Mac operating systems.
gotsmart 03/20/15 09:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Interesting Article About Marcus Lemonis - Head Of Good Sam

.... If Marcus want's to engage in other business activities, what's the problem with that? Does "The Profit" REALLY have any impact on Camping World? I don't see any conflict of interest and the two business ventures are totally exclusive of the other. .... I don't think "conflict of interest" is a problem as much as the perception that Mr. Lemonis may be spreading himself too thin and seems more addicted to fame than the operation and oversight of his own business ventures.
gotsmart 03/20/15 09:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Camping World Lakewood, NJ

Just wanted to write a little note on a repair that camping world in Lakewood, NJ on my travel trailer. Last October while returning home from Ocean City, Maryland something hit the side of the trailer putting a 6 inch long gash in the fiberglass wall and also damaging the lower skirting. Our insurance company recommended that we take it there to have the repair made and that they would do a good job. Well I picked up the trailer last Friday and you can not even tell where the damage was on the side wall. Great job by service writer Charles and to the mechanic who made the repair. Very pleased. Hopefully I can get the before and after photos loaded.. Before repair http://i.imgur.com/0aM5xhPl.jpg After repair http://i.imgur.com/pzeqTtBl.jpg
gotsmart 03/16/15 01:53pm Camping World Service and Installation
RE: Bought an old Class C - Electrical question?

If the OP can post images, that would be helpful.
gotsmart 03/14/15 02:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Propane Piping ?

You all know that the probability is very high that the line is simply feeding a gas grill don't you? Yes it should be black pipe, but let's get real about how bad it is... I don't see a grill. I see a 20# external propane tank. Going back to the first post in this thread you'll see that the top (capped) port is the grill port. It's a seamless galvanized elbow. This is being used with propane, NOT natural gas. I don't know where the mobile RV tech obtained it in 2011, but he said that a seamless elbow of this nature was accepted for this application. I have had zero issues with it since. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/11748414674_30e4741528_z.jpg
gotsmart 03/12/15 07:11pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Limiting steering wheel?

There are a few occasions where securing the steering wheel during flat towing is appropriate. If the toad does not track straight then it can cause tail wagging as it drifts left and right while being towed. This can cause a lot of arm fatigue to the MH driver - from constant correcting for the tail wag. Locking down the steering wheel can force the toad to stop drifting. The trade off is a bit of scuffing on the tires. Arm fatigue vs tire scuffing. I flat tow a smart car. It is a narrow gauge car. Here in WA the major roads (like the rightmost lane of I-5) are a bit rutted from logging trucks. A smart car is not wide enough to sit in the ruts. It drifts back and forth between the ruts - even when I'm driving the car on I-5. Using a rubber bungee (just one bungee) to secure the steering wheel plus a rear trac bar took care of the tail wag. The bungee allows the steering wheel to move a couple of inches either side of center, but is tight enough to return the steering wheel to center afterwards. Therefore my conclusion to the topic of limiting the steering wheel is: It depends. Most of the time it is not needed. In a small percentage of the applications it solves the problem. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8303/7796272910_00e8c71d14.jpg
gotsmart 03/10/15 07:53pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Propane Piping ?

Discussed back in November 2012: http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26512040/gotomsg/26515767.cfm#26515767 You can also Google it.
gotsmart 03/09/15 09:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 24 feet motorhome - 55 gl. fuel tank

This is a useful link: http://owner.ford.com/your-vehicle.html Create an account, add a vehicle and plug in the chassis VIN. It will tell you a lot of information about your ford cutaway chassis.
gotsmart 03/09/15 02:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C body sag

The front passenger side of RV body has started to sag. I thought maybe the screws that go through the exterior body wall to the floors have bent. So I jacked up the body shell and replaced the screws with larger. As I lowered the body down It sagged and I now know it's the floor that's causing the sag. I not sure how to go from here. Add a support under the floor underneath? The picture shows the stripes not lined up from the sag. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/16757272055_3eee3ef544_z.jpg Don't use: http://flic.kr/p/rwMpaH I used: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/16757272055_3eee3ef544_z.jpg
gotsmart 03/08/15 06:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Marshall brass or Camco

I have the Stay-A-While Deluxe (picture is clickable) https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8426/7796513374_e038868e0d.jpg
gotsmart 03/08/15 10:28am Beginning RVing
RE: Hanging Clothes Space

This was my solution on an open wall in the rear BR. It is a closet orgainzer from Lowes. The pictures in the link have installation comments. https://www.flickr.com/photos/gotsmart/sets/72157631098947616/ https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8302/7788943284_53c5a85cde.jpg
gotsmart 03/03/15 10:46am Full-time RVing
RE: +1 size or not

If the OP's wheels are 14" x 6" I suggest replacing them with 15" x 7" wheels - just for the better selection of available tire brands and sizes.
gotsmart 03/03/15 10:35am General RVing Issues
RE: Buying a Rental Class C. How many of us out there? (Long)

After buying a retired rental, say a 2008 Cruise America with 150K miles, would it be wise to replace all of the rubber like would be needed on a vehicle from the 90s? I'm thinking break lines, fuel lines, vacuum lines, etc. Check out my links in this post. This one will be of particular interest.
gotsmart 02/28/15 09:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hellwig Rear Swaybar - E450

We're at 4500 front, and run 60-psi, which is good for 4670. Tracking is better for it. Henderson's told me they often put a Safe-T-Plus on the front and a Super Steer Track Bar on the rear to solve most Class C tracking problems. If it's actually SWAY bothering you, then Sway Bars, and I'd do both ends. When a Ford chassis sways, it also Steers. So reducing Sway will also help tracking. X2 I have a Safe-T-Plus and Roadmaster front sway bar and SuperSteer rear trac bar. I posted about it here. At some point I may add a rear sway bar, but I'm not there yet.
gotsmart 02/28/15 02:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sway bars, which one

I have this Roadmaster front sway bar. I posted about here.
gotsmart 02/28/15 02:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Adventures in alignment or wanderer no more

What's the difference? The coach companies are putting structural loads on the cut-away chassis that Ford (and Chevy) did not design into the chassis. Ford will deliver to you an E450 cut-away of the wheelbase and chassis length of your choosing. From the front bumper to the back of the cab it is the same as their E450 delivery truck. Ford (and Chevy) assumes that the coach companies will beef up the suspension, etc to accommodate the requirements of a motorhome. The coach companies (as a general rule) don't do this - to save money. That is why you read here about RVers adding trac bars, larger sway bars/bushings, Bilstein shocks, helper air bags, steering stabilizers, and on and on.
gotsmart 02/25/15 05:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Adventures in alignment or wanderer no more

One of the first things that I did when I bought my Ford E450 MH is: 1) add a rear trac bar - because I flat tow a car 2) replace the OE (delivery truck) front sway bay with one designed for a MH 3) replaced the (leaking) OE steering damper with a Safe-T-Plus - which is a steering damper and centering device
gotsmart 02/22/15 06:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: plastic v. porcelain toilets

I have a Dometic Sealand 500 series (511+ ...I think). It is porcelain, easy to clean and service (IMO), and just plain works.
gotsmart 02/21/15 02:01pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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