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 > Your search for posts made by 'gotsmart' found 176 matches.

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RE: Hwy 12 Washington State

from Packwood to I-5 it is a wonderful drive.
gotsmart 01/21/15 04:49pm Roads and Routes
RE: AM21N TV Tuner works great

Amazon link. It says that it is a product from DirecTV
gotsmart 01/15/15 11:17pm Technology Corner
RE: Just started Fulltiming, had to fix my first issue!

Okay, so I have to share this. It was bugging me for the first two weeks we were in the RV, and I finally found the problem and got it replaced. Sorry about the pics if they are too big. So, when I first got the RV, the first couple days weren't so bad. Everything was normal, and we were living large. And then after a few days, we felt "wet" or "moist" carpet in the bedroom, all around the bed. We thought at first it was just condensation and we needed a dehumidifier to solve this problem... Well, we were wrong. I did some online browsing and after hours each day of searching, on the 7th of January, I found what might be the issue. I kept looking at something like water pump leaks, fresh tank leaks (since it's underneath the bed, and it was the bedroom carpet that was wet) and all the while it kept getting worse. Here's what the carpet looked like (dark spots are all wet spots, pics are kinda big so linked to image) : http://i.imgur.com/CeY3f0z.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/XhyITzE.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/NG6HOb8.jpg height=480 width=640 My water pump (using pump at this time because I didn't yet have a heated hose, and needed water) was running every so often, maybe every 5 to 10 minutes, for about a second. Online searching revealed this is because there is a leak and it has to compensate for loss of pressure. I was fed up, so my final solution was checking the toilet. That was mentioned on some far away forum in a galaxy never seen, and it was a mere hint only one person ever said ever. So, low and behold, I go into the bathroom, and it being also wet (from the same source I imagined), I poked and prodded all around the can trying to find this thing. I couldn't get my head behind the toilet because it was right up against the wall, and it's a fairly thin bathroom. So I took my phone out and scouted some pics behind the commode where the mechanical flush mechanism is. I found it was fairly wet, and here is what I saw: http://i.imgur.com/FQUJLph.jpg height=480 width=640 The rounded piece in top middle right by the spring was the twist mechanism which allowed the toilet pedal to recoil without breaking. Turns out, it was worn out enough to start dripping! I tested my theory by holding my hand back there and flushing at the same time with my foot. As I released the flush, the water went back into the pressurized tube (to compensate for excess air), and water started dripping out! More than a "drip drop here and there", at least 10 to 15 drops in quick succession. A few more slow drops after that. Now this may not sound like a huge issue, but consider this: 1. It's effing cold outside. Nights are consistently between 10 and 20 degrees (in Texas mind you), so typically not enough heat to evaporate the water 2. The lady and I want the humidifier on because it helps our skin (it really does, as we are both used to humid climates) so the water accumulation helps the problem. 3. This drip has been happening since we purchased the unit. It was there from the original owners (who deny it of course), and we could tell because it conforms to previous stains on the carpet *perfectly*. Easy investigation and common sense will tell you this was an ongoing problem, but I can't prove it. With that in mind, I set out to fix it. I began tearing through the bathroom, piece by piece until I could get at the fixture. Here is my progression on said demolition: http://i.imgur.com/EjpFBUN.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/LhPNNcH.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/Zofd9nz.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/EuPa0gb.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/M8Mi3Cq.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/6Kl6Qgl.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/UaKp32z.jpg height=480 width=640 With everything out of the bathroom barring cords that were needed, I was able to get to the back of the porcelain throne. When I looked, I was surprised at the damage. Here is what I saw: http://i.imgur.com/1wJzJBL.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/3frGk14.jpg height=480 width=640 I dunno where the old owners stayed, but from just looking at it you could tell the water pressure in the area was way too high, and they did not have a regulator. It was so strong it expanded and blew out the flow mechanism that attached itself to the rotating recoil device. This allowed water to get in and easily slip through the non-sealed plastic connection when the flusher pushed it downward. As you might suggest, I was pissed. I called my dealer, they gave me a backhanded apology and said "we checked everything, must be new" and I KNEW they were lying, but again, no proof. Emailed the inspector, and he said he checks for generic leaks, not hidden leaks (which this one was a part of). So no one checked this at all, and the a-hole owners gave it to the dealer full well knowing of this issue. Luckily I purchased an extended warranty. The dealer (PPL motorhomes) said this was covered under warranty, and to take it to the nearest warranty service center. I live in Lubbock and they have a Camping World store here, which is awesome. I chatted with a lady online and they cover this, but she needed to get with someone for the cost and time projection of this. I would owe a $200 co-pay (warranty contract), but it would all be taken care of. My big issue with this is thus: 1. I live here, and have nowhere else to go, so it can't be in the shop while they tear into it. 2. The water damage is extensive (I imagine, no moldy odors as of yet) and would have to take out most of the bedroom to replace. Again, we don't have time or places to go. 3. It would be $200 I just don't have coming off a holiday season, but this fix needed to be NOW. We were tired of waking up in a pond every day. This would also get us very sick if not taken care of. So, I looked around, and on Wednesday night (very late mind you, after tearing apart the bathroom) I found a replacement part on Amazon for $25 + $4 overnight shipping. Not bad! Certainly a lot better than $200. Well, come Friday night, Fedex still hasn't delivered. I am upset, but look on their website and it shipped out of Tennessee which is having weather problems and trucks are out of service. Understandable, but I needed a fix NOW. So I contacted Amazon to try and cancel the order and get a refund so I could buy the part locally, and Amazon (being as awesome as they are) refunded me in full with no questions asked and gave me a free month of Prime (extended, since I have Prime anyways)! That was awesome. On top of that, they didn't cancel the order since it was already on a truck. Okay so Monday rolls around and I still don't have a part. I couldn't find it anywhere, and Amazon was the ONLY place. Now I'm getting antsy because I dunno if the part will arrive and if it doesn't I have to wait even LONGER. Well, tonight the part came in! To my surprise even. I didn't have to order, AND I got it for free! That makes up for the delay, so I immediately got to work. I take out the toilet again (had been using with a cup and towel to gather the water when we flush, so at least it would dry up in here) and began to work. Instructions were clear and common sense, so I was able to do it without really reading (take it apart, put it together the same way). Here's the new stuff that came in: http://i.imgur.com/schRtZk.jpg height=480 width=640 Nice and shiny! Even included a new toilet seal for the bottom! (which I didn't need, but hey I'll save it in case I do need it!) Here is the part that expanded. It looks horrible, and you can here excess water sloshing around inside, so I KNEW it was the problem child: http://i.imgur.com/3gEt7Hf.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/jyMUrK4.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/hTj95Hy.jpg height=480 width=640 It was really bad. But, fixable like everything else. There were no horrible smells thankfully, and you always gotta remember to turn off the water before doing ANYTHING in plumbing! I made some progress shots of putting it back together again: http://i.imgur.com/vDfoPhK.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/gzZ70dB.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/ca3zYh4.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/msOu8F5.jpg height=480 width=640 And nice and clean! http://i.imgur.com/sJeUo6C.jpg height=480 width=640 Man, that was a hassle. But I'm chalking that up to experience and "it could have been worse!" Thanks if you read this far. It is no longer leaking and now I can get back to more fun projects!
gotsmart 01/13/15 12:17am Full-time RVing
RE: Bathroom stench after flush and chemicals

The OP may need to deodorize the tank with bleach and let it soak 6+ hours, then dump and rinse the tank with plain water.
gotsmart 01/12/15 09:27am General RVing Issues
RE: Camping with PTSD

X2
gotsmart 01/11/15 07:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: draw back to fulltiming in NH?

NH does not have an income tax or sales tax. It does have a room & meals (and rental car) tax, a business profits tax, interest and dividends taxes, and will nickel and dime you for licenses, fees and permits of every kind. The OP wants to know of any drawbacks to full-timing in NH, not 3,000 miles away across the continent. When I decided to go fulltime I looked at NH and what it would cost and decided fulltiming wouldn't work for me in NH. I then took stock of my 45+ years of living in Maine and New Hampshire, and decided that I was fed up with snow. I put the house on the market. Sold it in 45 days and left New England behind. In WA the registration on my 2005 Class C costs $116/year and the 2009 smart car costs $45/year. Insurance is about $650/year on the MH and about $830/year on the car. Those numbers include the fact that my domicile is my private mail box. That was my solution to fulltiming in NH.
gotsmart 01/10/15 03:57pm Full-time RVing
RE: caretaker position for RV owner

Our daughter is moving March 1 so we will need a caretaker with their own RV for when we travel in 3-4 weeks periods in April, May/June and September, October/November. We can provide power but no water or sewer. Our well is shallow and has non-potable water and we have a newer septic system with no dumping (contractor said it is illegal). .... 1) how can you obtain an occupancy permit in a home that does not have drinkable water? OK, so maybe you have a fancy water filter system and the outside spigots aren't connected to it. ...Well there is such a thing as a faucet to garden hose adapter that replaces a sink faucet's aerator. I have one. Fill kits for waterbeds use them. RV water hoses work on them as well. 2) Even with the best contractors unfortunate stuff can happen. I don't know of anyone, especially an RVer, who would serve as your proxy if there are issues with the contractor while you're away - assuming the contractor is performing work while you're away. You couldn't indemnify me enough to take on that role. That is your job. One of you should be home to oversee the work.
gotsmart 01/10/15 12:15am Workamping Forum
RE: caretaker position for RV owner

Your contractor is ignorant of how to do things. There is no law against having a clean-out in your yard. Dump into that. A macerator pumping into a toilet when needing to dump would solve the sewer issue.
gotsmart 01/09/15 11:39pm Workamping Forum
RE: draw back to fulltiming in NH?

In 2010 I sold my house in Manchester, NH and moved to Olympia, WA. In early 2011 I bought a Class C, traded my truck for a smart car (toad) and went fulltime. WA has no income tax. Oregon has no sales tax. It's a nice drive down I-5 to Oregon for those big ticket items. Winter west of I-5 in WA and west of I-5 in northern OR is very doable. You just have to get used to the winter rain on your RV's roof. This is my 2nd winter in Sequim, WA. Sequim is in Washington state's Banana Belt. Winters are mild here compared to other parts of the state. Sequim has a herd of Roosevelt elk, sea food (Dungeness crab), coffee shops, bird watching, and the Lavender Festival. WA makes it easy to fulltime in this state.
gotsmart 01/09/15 11:19pm Full-time RVing
RE: Mud dauber screens

I have this screen on my Norcold N621. It comes with 2 tie-wraps for each screen. I added a 3rd tie-wrap to each screen when I installed them. Note: the screens have a finished side and a non-finished side. Install them with the finished side exposed - so that anyone who takes a closer look at it will see a nice looking screen. I have this screen on my Atwood 6 gallon water heater. I have this screen on my Suburban furnace.
gotsmart 01/09/15 02:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Are all base plates the same? Your preference and why.

You'd think someone would post a pic. Click on the image for a larger photo. I have the Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar with Roadmaster's EZ2 Twistlock series brackets. There are optional black plastic covers (not shown) that can make the bracket mounts almost invisible. If you're a James Bond fan then leaving them uncovered might remind you of something else. :W https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8424/7796905820_5d9207fe4c_z.jpg
gotsmart 01/09/15 02:36pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Tach & Hour meter for portable generator

Here is another link for what the OP has posted: linky
gotsmart 01/09/15 02:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: No Slide Out Class C

My Cruise America 28R does not have slide outs. It has a cab over bed, dinette, sofa, and a walk around island queen bed. Interior pictures , Exterior pictures You can see all my photo albums in the link in my signature.
gotsmart 01/09/15 01:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Water is froze does it hurt to leave hot water heater on ?

My water is froze at our park, does it hurt to leave the hot water heater on or should it be off. temperature is still below freezing. Seems if I leave it on at least it won't freeze with water in it and keep me from draining it. Going to fill the fresh water tank for tonight once they get water back on. Go to the park's office and ask them what their policy is during below freezing temperatures. If you have a full hookup it may be as simple as leaving the valve open on your gray (or galley) tank and running the water in the kitchen sink at a slow stream (not a trickle). Having RUNNING water in the water hose helps to keep the hose from freezing. The park that I am at also says that they are responsible up to a site's spigot and the guest is responsible from the spigot to their RV. This is the policy of the park that I'm in. YMMV. We'll have 3 to 4 times during the winter when the temperature is 23F to 25F. I only have 3/4 inch foam pipe insulation on a 20 foot water hose. I have a Class C with an open belly and no winter package. I have no problem with the cold temperatures. I just make sure that my sewer hose has a continuous downward pitch from the MH to the sewer hole. Yes running water can be wasteful - even when a cold snap runs 10 days - but here it is park policy.
gotsmart 01/08/15 07:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Mud dauber screens

.... Here are models: (1) Norcold fridge - model N811RT For the fridge, on the outside of the vent cover measure the width of the vent (not the width of the cover). Then google: camco insect screen norcold There will be several screen model numbers to choose from. Pick the one with the screen width that matches your vent measurement. Make sure that the screen that you pick is for a Norcold fridge and not a Dometic fridge.
gotsmart 01/05/15 11:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Y-adapter

In many cases that 20 amp GFI outlet is daisy-chained off of the 30 amp socket. I work on pedestals, amongst other jobs. When I come across a 20 amp outlet (with or without its own breaker) that is daisy-chained off of the 30amp socket, it gets removed and a cover plate is installed in its place. If you're in a 30 amp site I recommend asking a member of the park staff if the 20 amp outlet in the site is daisy-chained or runs down to the busbar. This is especially true during the summertime if one is in a 30 amp site, the AC is running (hair dryer, toaster, yadda, yadda) and the voltage is heading south below 110V. Too many times someone will plug into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp (only) pedestal and will trip the 30 amp breaker on the pedestal - and they don't know why. If you remove the only 20A outlet at the campsite, I believe you've just created a violation of the NEC. A 20A outlet is required at every campsite with electrical power, even if there is also a 30A and/or 50A socket. No, I don't claim that everything in the NEC makes perfect sense. So you're saying that if you go into an older park that only has 30 amp service and you lift the hood on a pedestal and only find a 30 amp socket and breaker - that the park is in violation? There are hundreds of parks like that. In fact many of these parks started life as 20a parks from the ealy days of RVing when a shore power cable was a heavy duty 110V extension cord. These 20a pedestals are wired with what looks like stripped romex. Years later upgrade the park's main/mains for 30 amp service, replace the 20a faceplates with 30a faceplates and several 30a/20a faceplates. Did you notice what I ommitted? The faceplates got upgraded to 30 amp sockets. The pedestals still are wired from breaker to busbar with stripped romex. I get to see the scorch marks of cooked wiring on the inside of the pedestals. If you ask me how they could they have passed inspection, the laughing won't stop. At least when I rewire a pedestal I start by installing #2 stranded from the busbar to the breaker. Why remove the 20a outlets? Because I am told to. Any other reply is above my pay grade. ... Back to what you were saying, if they have separate breakers, they have separate grounds, this item may work? I have a built in power management system, it works pretty well, it does a good job of shutting stuff off without tripping the pedestal. Cale That's all well and good. I'm tasked with repairing wiring hack jobs and under-volting pedestals. I replace undersized wiring and if a 20a outlet is getting higher voltage at the busbar than the 30a socket is getting at the busbar then the 20a is pulled and the 30a is moved to the 20a's spot on the busbar. If a breaker at a main has too many sites on it then those sites lose their 20a outlets (if present) in order to reduce the chance of one site taking out a row of sites. These are my marching orders.
gotsmart 01/04/15 02:13am General RVing Issues
RE: Port Angeles to Victoria

You might also look into just walking on the ferry ... X2
gotsmart 01/03/15 03:52pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Power Y-adapter

In many cases that 20 amp GFI outlet is daisy-chained off of the 30 amp socket. I work on pedestals, amongst other jobs. When I come across a 20 amp outlet (with or without its own breaker) that is daisy-chained off of the 30amp socket, it gets removed and a cover plate is installed in its place. If you're in a 30 amp site I recommend asking a member of the park staff if the 20 amp outlet in the site is daisy-chained or runs down to the busbar. This is especially true during the summertime if one is in a 30 amp site, the AC is running (hair dryer, toaster, yadda, yadda) and the voltage is heading south below 110V. Too many times someone will plug into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp (only) pedestal and will trip the 30 amp breaker on the pedestal - and they don't know why.
gotsmart 01/03/15 03:49pm General RVing Issues
RE: Roadmaster, base plate, to Blue OX fittings

My car has a "no bumper" bumper. My brackets and cross bar are now my bumper (in my dreams) :W https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7796923234_15f0033da8.jpg
gotsmart 01/03/15 03:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Clas A Drivers license requirement State of Nevada

Many states explicitly differentiate between trailers and towed vehicles in separate sections of the same law, with different rules applied to each. I don't ask why. It just is.
gotsmart 12/29/14 01:42am Class A Motorhomes
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