I guess I'm not clear on the process here.
1) I live in DC, have a permanent address there.
2) Apply for loan with said address.
3) Receive loan, purchase RV, registered to my DC address.
4) Load stuff into RV, leave.
5) Drive to Florida, re-register, obtain forwarding service, establish residency in Florida.
How after step 3 is the bank going to be involved again unless I stop making payments? Even when I re-register and the title notes the lien from the bank, so what? How does the bank have the right to tell me what my living arrangements are allowed to be? As long as they're getting their money, what's the issue?
1) I live in DC, have a permanent address there.
1.1) rent private mailbox in the state that you want to domicile in. Sign the 2 USPS forms allowing them (the mailbox provider, aka: CMRA) to receive US Mail on your behalf and to sign for mail or packages for anything with "signature required".
To add to what Old Biscuit posted above, don't use the designator "PMB" in your new address. Use APT, #, UNIT. Your mailbox provider won't care as long as your box number is on the address so they don't have to look you up on the computer. It may help you to fly under the radar in places. I use: APT.
2) Apply for loan with DC address.
3) Receive loan,
3.1) you'll need some documents with your new address on them when getting your new driver license. Turn off paperless billing for cell phone bill and a credit card bill, and change the address on them to be your private mailbox. Do this at least one billing cycle before leaving DC.
3.2) purchase RV, Don't register it in DC. If bought from a dealer use the temporary plate. There is something called a "trip plate". It is for moving an unregistered vehicle over the road from point A to point B. There usually is a fee involved. It's something to look into. Here in WA Cruise America had me fill out a form for a 45-day trip plate when I told them I was going to register my MH in Oregon. I later changed my mind and registered it in WA.
4) Load stuff into RV, leave.
5) Drive to Florida, establish residency in Florida.
6) register the MH. Some states require proof of vehicle insurance before it can be registered.
7) register the car. Note, if you have the title some states have high title transfer fees.
The person filling your propane tank should not care about any master shut off on your house batteries. If there is anything to worry about when filling the propane tank it is those appliances that may be close enough to the propane tank to give the employee concern when filling the tank. These appliances are the fridge, water heater, and furnace. The fridge and water heater have ON/OFF switches and you stop the furnace by setting the thermostat to the OFF position. Shutting them off kills any open flame that would worry the employee.
Are your house batteries located beneath the stair treads inside your coach door? Is there a battery disconnect switch hiding in there? Have you asked the seller if there is a battery disconnect switch and where it is located?
Was the RV's shore power cable plugged into a pedestal or outlet when you tested the systems? The converter can supply the 12V power to 12V lights and appliances when plugged into shore power. So if the 12V stuff runs when the shore power cable is plugged in but not when it is unplugged then start your investigation by looking at your house battery(ies).
Gain access to the house battery(ies) and put a multimeter on them to test the voltage.
Questions to answer:
1) are the house battery(ies) good? Do they hold a charge?
2) When plugged into shore power, is the converter charging the house battery(ies)?
3) if 1) and 2) are OK then you may have some other 12V electrical issue.
1. Why is there an extension cord coming out of an opening in one of the dinette benches?
2. Is there room between the left hip and wall/door when sitting on toilet? Overhead view seems to indicate: yes. Full-on view seems to suggest otherwise.
3. Toilet paper holder. My back hurts from looking at it. In my RV the toilet paper holder jams you in the left hip, so I bought this from Walmart and hung in on the lip of the medicine cabinet in lower right corner. The door even closes securely with it in place.
4. What are the wires that are coming out of the dash, above the center console?
5. Are the tires original to the RV? It is 2017. If those tires are from 2010 then they most likely need to be replaced.
In 2011 I paid $23k and change for a 2004 E450 30 foot Cruise America rental with 109,000 miles on the odometer. Picture link in my signature.
My first reaction is $35k feels to be high for the year/mileage/features. Are they throwing anything in for free? New mattress, new tires, new chassis and coach batteries.
Just hope that those milk crates do not have a dairy's name on them. Why It’s Illegal to Use Milk Crates for Anything Besides Milk
I have a couple of replica milk crates that I bought at Home Depot for $9.98. They are identical to milk crates except they have no writing on them.
Edit: added Home Depot link
It will be interesting to see how this affects availability of chassis for class C and B motorhomes. Still thirteen years away but right about then we will be downsizing to a small B class. Might be interesting.
This is the only English article I could find on the article. The German article is more encompassing. This follows Norways 2025 and Hollands 2026 plans for the same thing although the details are different.
Big Woof. What's going to change? IMO, nothing. Why? Because if it doesn't ban petrol stations and ICE-based vehicles from being driven on the roads then it is toothless. Drivers and RVers, within and without Germany, will still drive their ICE vehicles in Germany and will need petrol stations. If the EU Commission does not agree with Germany then the only people affected will be German citizens buying new vehicles and Germany-based automobile MFGs. The Germany-based automobile MFGs will still make ICE vehicles - for export only.
My (PMB) private mailbox provider has told me that they don't care what I do to get my box number on the address, as long as it saves them from having to look me up on their computer to get my box number.
They don't care if the address says: PMB, SUITE, APT, UNIT, SITE, BLDG, FLOOR, SPACE, #, .... You get the picture.
I would say to use whatever syntax that gets the box number on the address line, and gets the mail delivered to you.
I haven't followed the USPS rules for a PMB. I use this format:
99 my street name APT 999
My City, XX 12345-6789
If you have a PO Box then I don't know how one could game the address with an online retailer and still get it delivered.
The entirety of the national electricity grid in the USA needs to be upgraded to cope with the possibility of every ICE vehicle being replaced with an electric vehicle.
The U.S. can't even get the utility companies to upgrade their system software applications to increase security against hacking. If they can't be bothered to upgrade 40+ year old software systems I don't see them increasing their generation capacity to handle 500,000 to 20,000,000 electric vehicles per utility. Not without an act of Congress.
IMO change-resistant companies like electric utilities will do "the path of least resistance" route and resort to "Supply and Demand" pricing. As more electric vehicles come online, charging station costs will increase exponentially as grid load reaches capacity.
I believe the electric vehicles in the USA will remain a niche market until the electricity industry is forced to change. I don't see that happening for decades.
MB will just shelve the ICE smart car designs until fuel prices rise high enough again to make them worthwhile to sell.
at what price point do electric vehicles pay off? assuming an average guess on electricity costs vs. a 25mpg car at $2.50?
I'm not talking: price point. I'm talking economic cycles and human nature. Japan and south east Asia perfected the business model in the years after the fuel crisis of the 1970s.
As fuel prices increase, cars get smaller. As fuel prices decrease, cars get larger. Car buyers' purchase preferences also follow the same model.
Since there can be a significant difference in profit margin between an ICE car and its electric version, and
- the fact that state and federal tax credits for electric vehicles will someday go away, and
- as states and fed govt figure out how to collect road usage taxes in lieu of taxes at the gas pump
that ICE cars will never fully disappear, but will wax and wane along with the economy.
I contend that the ICE smart could very possibly reappear in the future.
If you own a home then look into a Home Equity Loan (2nd mortgage). You'll get to deduct the interest on your taxes, you're buying the RV with cash, and you get the title for the RV sent to you - cuz the loan is against the home and not the RV.
The window lock on many RVs where the windows slide sideways can be defeated. If the window latch looks something like a wing-nut, where you push on one side to lock it and then on the other side to unlock it - you can place both palms on the window pane that slides (near the divider between both panes), push the window inwards about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch, then while it is pushed in you slide the window open.
For the above to work you have to know what type of latching mechanism that the window has in place.
I like thick soft fluffy TP and use big wads of it.
Hard to plug up a 3" line.
Water is key. High liquid to solid ratio and dump when full....WHOOSH.
RVng should not be MADE complicated.
Do what you do at home.
Adding to what Old-Biscuit posted, in 2011 I was at an RV park on the Oregon coast and met a couple from Idaho. He was in the paper industry for 35 years. He told me that they did dissolve test after dissolve test after dissolve test, using many brands, RV-specific TP, and their own TP. He said that in the end it made no difference.
He said that what does make a difference is how much toilet paper is used and put into the black tank. You want a slurry of waste and product, not a sludge of waste and product. "Water is key." Each model of RV is a little different from other RVs and each RVer has to find the "happy medium" (tipping point) as to much product can go in their RV's black tank so that it can be dumped without problems.
I use a secondary gmail address for all non-amazon online purchases. There is nothing special about it except for a filter that I added:
Matches: from: (*)
Do this: Delete it, Never mark it as important
All emails, and I do mean all emails, go directly to the Trash. It is an unmanaged email account. Everything that is in the Trash folder automatically gets deleted after 30 days. There are no emails in the Inbox. The email address in a dumping ground for all the spam and junk emails that I may receive as the result of needing to provide an email address.
I place an online order. I then log onto this email account and check the trash folder for the order confirmation. I'll subsequently check the trash folder for the shipping confirmation (I may forward the shipping confirmation to my regular email address).
Then I log off - knowing full well that the online retailer will likely spam the email address for the next 60 days. I don't care. It's off of my radar. There's no reason to log on because the Inbox is already empty.
While weighing the tanks is obviously best, I don't think it is really practical.
It sounds like none of the gauges really work (pretty much what I expected). Sounds like the water/condensation method is the easiest.
(Oh, and I have standard 20# tanks on my HTT.)
The Grill Gauge is made for 20# tanks. It is why my external tanks for my MH are 20# tanks. I use a Grill Gauge to weigh the tanks.
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