To the OP: Timely website maintenance by parks, in general, is poor. Use a phone and start calling parks of interest to you.
I work outside at a park. It is normal for the office to get all kinds of phone calls each week with inquiries:
What is the check out time?
How many cable channels do you have?
Is WiFi throughout the park?
What are your rates?
How do you handle "after hour" arrivals?
What activities do you have for kids?
What can we do in the area while staying at the park?
What is your pet policy?
The list of questions goes on. If the website and reviews don't satisfy you, call the park, everyone else does - unless "not going camping" is the goal. If that's the case you're all set.
Try carrying three 60 lb pier blocks and a 60 lb bag of concrete (underneath the leftmost block) on a scooter. It is more than just a grocery getter.
PS: That's a full size spare tire behind the drivers seat.
Are used smart cars cheap?
In 2011 I bought my 2009 smart fortwo Passion with 18,220 miles on the odometer for $9,998 USD (IIRC) before trade-in. After trade-in of my pickup with 194,000 on the odometer I wrote a check for $8,394 (before, tax, title, and regist ration :) ).
So proxima, what can you do... other than ignoring those in this thread who would try to dissuade you from becoming a WA resident?
If you plan to live in an RV from October to May in an RV in WA then your want to live west of I-5 (as a general rule). I-5 is treated like the winter rain/snow divider - rain west of I-5, snow east of I-5. Wintering in an RV on the rainy side of WA is very doable. I'm a resident of Aberdeen, WA but I'm in Sequim (the least wet part of WA in the winter).
Having said that, how about getting a library card at Timberland Regional Library. TRL has 27 libraries, 2 cooperative library centers and 4 library kiosks in Grays Harbor, Lewis, Mason, Pacific, and Thurston counties in Southwest Washington State. linky
1) call a UPS store or parcel store that is located in a WA county of your choice and use a credit card to rent a private mailbox. Have them email or fax to you the 2 signature forms. One form authorizes then to receive mail on your behalf from the USPS. The other form gives them signature authorization to sign for mail/packages that require your signature. Then send the forms back to the store.
2) have a couple of bills sent to your new private mailbox.
3) sign up online for a library card.
4) Visit WA and go to a DOL location. I'm not sure if a (3rd party) Licensing Agency store will do. Get a drivers license with the mailbox address. The DOL can also register you to vote. Just ask. You may choose to register your vehicle(s) at this time. linky I think you can have them mail the WA license plates to you out of state (double check that). You'll have to obtain WA vehicle insurance as well.
You're in. Another interesting residency link from the WA Dept of Revenue.
Then one year after the issue date on your drivers license you will qualify for in-state tuition.
To the OP:
rent a Private Mail Box (PMB) at a UPS store or other parcel store that rents mailboxes. You can not do this at a Post Office.
The legal street address will be something like:
1234 Main St PMB 5678
(where 5678 is your box number)
The WA Dept of Licensing (DOL) computer system cannot handle "PMB" (at least not in 2011), so do the following:
Change the address on a credit card bill and cell phone bill (or bills of your choice) to be:
1234 Main St Apt 5678
1234 Main St # 5678
If you have paperless billing, turn it off so that you'll receive a paper copy at you new mailbox address. Then take the bills to a DOL office and change you license and/or address.
The UPS store or parcel store where you are renting the mailbox will tell you that they don't care what is listed on the street address as long as you box number is on the address label - so that they won't have to look you up on their computer. It can say SUITE, APT, FLOOR, BLDG, UNIT, #, PMB - they don't care.
I used the # sign instead of PMB for the address on my license.
I have found that for all of my change of addresses, I start with PMB on the street address or separate line. If that gets rejected as invalid syntax I use APT. If that gets rejected I use #. etc., etc.
** EDIT **
One last thing... Rent you mailbox in a county in WA that does not require emissions testing in order to register a vehicle. For RVs it is pretty much a joke and a pain in the butt. Avoid making your domicile in the counties in this link:
J&A, given the number of times we both have posted pictures and information about smart cars, I feel invisible.
To the OP: adding to what John & Angela have posted, there are 3 versions of the smart car (excluding the electric and CDI)
2000-2007 model 450
2008-2015 model 451
2016- ...... model 453
For each model there are 3 cars, the "Pure" (basic trim level), "Passion" (mid trim level), and "Cabrio" (convertible).
My 2009 smart fortwo Passion is a model 451.
smart cars have a 5 speed manual transmission, but do not have a clutch pedal. The computer does the shifting. smart cars are technically called an "automated manual". The smart CDI (diesel) is not offered for sale in the USA.
Prior to the model 453 the transmission had a single stage clutch. It can feel jerky when shifting. But it is easily remedied by feathering the gas pedal between shifts.
Beginning with the model 453, smart cars come with a DCT (dual clutch transmission) that shifts very smoothly. As of right now the model 453 is listed as NOT flat towable - because of the design of the DCT.
**UPDATE** 2/5/16 1:05 PM
I just checked the smartusa build-a-car web page. For 2016 there is a true manual transmission. The DCT is an upgrade. I was unaware that there is an option available.
In my signature is a link to my flickr photo albums. I have posted a lot of photos of my smart's towing set up and of some of the issues that I have encountered. A great many of the photos have detailed comments that I posted with the image.
As previously posted, the smartcarofamerica forums are an excellent resource. It has a towing section, where I have also posted.
If the OP's search requires looking east of PA, here are some options:
just east of PA: Conestoga
in Carlsborg, WA: Rainbow's End
in Sequim, WA: Gilgal Oasis , John Wayne Marina
13 miles east of Sequim: Diamond Point
You need a 2nd opinion. Get an indoor thermometer (something like the one below) and place it in the RV, where the heat isn't directly blowing on it. If the tstat is actually in a bad location for accurately reporting the temperature then the other thermometer will help show what offset is needed to achieve the desired temp.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71069QVjd-L._SL1500_.jpg height=185 width=200
I lived from 1986 to 2010 in NH, mostly in Manchester. No income tax or sales tax, but NH taxes dividend and interest income above $400 ??? I think. Don't hold me to that. My domicile is now WA, also no income tax.
Some states are better than others for FT RVers to domicile in - for Medicare/Medicaid, taxes, (vehicle) insurance, vehicle registration, lottery winnings, yadda, yadda, yadda.
It may be that your overriding consideration is to be near family. That is fine. But if it isn't then check out everything else. Some states are more expensive to live in, on paper, than others.
I grew up in Maine.... I'm from there.
I had pancake lights throughout my MH. The plastic on several were yellowed on the outside (over time). Some lights had poorly working switches on the fixture. I did not want to deal with LED bulbs or the square LED panels that one glues/sticks to the reflector inside the pancake light.
My solution was to replace all of the pancake lights with Thin-Lite LED pancake lights that I bought from Amazon:
Double pancake LED light , Single pancake LED light
The incandescent double pancake lights drew about 36W (or about 3 amps). The LED double pancake lights draw about 7W (or about .6 amps).
Keep in mind that a great many RV parks are NOT located where broadband internet in available. If a park can get decent DSL consider them lucky. It's not too too bad for a family of 4, but multiply that by 65+ RVers, with 2+ devices per site, and it caves in very quickly.
People want a park off the beaten path, remote, rustic, and away from road noise and the sounds of suburbia - and then they want all of the creature comforts that they enjoy at home. It's kind of hard for a park to provide those creature comforts when the infrastructure isn't there to provide them.
Many RVers don't like the park cable, the few channels available, or the poor picture quality - so they bring their own tailgater, walk out dish, roof top dish, or dome. If you don't like RV park internet then why not bring your own internet access to the park with you?
On edit: It appears YOURS is the one listed below. They are NOT illegal as they simply allow you to connect a 1# canister to your grill it the big one goes empty.
Mr. Heater adapter
winner winner chicken dinner
It's not the tarp that you have to worry about. It's where the tarp touches the edge of the rubber roof where the roof laps over the side of the RV. It is the major location for chafing on a rubber roof. This is a problem for all RV covers - even those covers that are designed for RVs.
The action of the wind lifting and lowering the cover (tarp) - even just a little bit - causes friction against the edge of the roof over time. This will wear away the rubber roof where the friction occurs.
Have patching material on hand and inspect the roof for wear every time you remove the cover.
Absolutely enjoyed the full time lifestyle for a number of years, then back to a 'sticks and bricks' home. Now...looking for just a small(non slide out) Class C for some weekend and vacation trips. I miss traveling easily, the fun, meeting the great people along the way, etc. I'm leaning toward a Winnebago Minnie Winnie/Itasca Spirit due to the availability of dual pane windows, and ducted a/c. But most of the smaller floorplans, 22 to 25 ft. do not have a ducted furnace. I'm wondering how well a non ducted furnace keeps the rig warm in general, but especially for trips to the bathroom during the night or for showering in the morning. We live in Phoenix, but will occasionally venture into cooler climates. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
Cruise America has a refurbishing facility (in Phoenix, I think) in the your backyard. A tour of their shorter MHs may be in order. I have a 30 footer (2005 28R) that I fulltime in. I'm near the mouth of Discovery Bay in WA. I tuck a comforter under the edge of the mattress in the cabover as a curtain between the cab and the house, and my primary heat source is a 1500W ceramic space heater. Then again, I'm plugged into shore power.
I don't think you'll have a heating issue with the propane furnace. The smaller holding tank sizes in a shorter MH will mean more frequent dumping of the tanks.
This afternoon at 3:00 PM (Pacific Time) I unplugged the solar panel from the cigarette lighter socket (very important step) and started the engine. This is the first time the engine has been started since I plugged in the solar panel. I stood on the ground outside the cab and turn the key in the ignition. It started in less than 5 seconds, with no hesitation at all. I will run the engine for about an hour - to get it hot enough to cook any water/condensation out of it.
Recap: before I plugged on the solar panel on Aug 20, 2015 I charged the chassis battery with a really good (read "old") Sears charger. Only after the chassis battery was fully charged did I plug in the solar panel. The intent was that the panel would generate enough power to negate the parasitic draw from any active systems in the chassis (clock in the radio, onboard computer, etc). I've opened a cab door to access items - probably 2 dozen times since plugging in the panel.
Conclusion: It appears to me that the solar panel is doing everything I want from it. All that I can say is that it seems to be working for me. YMMV
See my signature. I drag a 2-seater. It's a grocery getter and keeps the rain off of my head. It also weighs only 1,800 lbs (US). I've taken it everywhere - even on NF roads (not a good idea). It has plenty of room in the back for groceries/supplies. Why a 2-seater? To shut up the moochers. When you're at a gathering at yours/some one's site... and everyone decides to go somewhere or to dinner... and a mooch says to you "You have room, why don't we take your car/truck?".
For years, even when I had my S&B home, I got hit on to be the driver of the group. I'm done with that. I have a nice little car that is super easy to tow. My 2009 is rated: 33mpg/city and 41mpg/hwy. I average 39 to 41/city and 50/hwy.
** UPDATE **
Well, I went ahead and installed the bulb that I bought from Amazon. Yes it does have only 1 contact per side. I don't think it will be a problem though. The LED puts out more light onto the cook top, but with the cover reinstalled on the hood the color of the light is about the same as with the incandescent bulb.
The 1 thing that became very apparent with the 921 LED is that the plug on the bottom of the LED bulb is thicker than the same on the 921 incandescent bulb.
By that I mean that where the 921 incandescent fit snuggly but was easy to remove and insert with 1 hand, the 921 LED took 2 hands and quite a lot of effort to insert into the socket.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61xO91b2-0L._SL1200_.jpg height=200 width=275
Firefox and Gmail hate each other starting 2-weeks ago. Are you folks SURE Google isn't pulling a fast-one to drum up more business for Chrome, which I dislike? Ever since Windows 10 huckersterism started in my Windows tray various e-services started going PT Barnum & Bailey.
Tried everything including cache, disabling add-ons, de-frag, standing on my head, ------- up wind, this is no accident. Herb Tarlek now rules the cyber byways.
Maybe your computer has a turkey virus...