RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'gotsmart' found 108 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Oregon Coast

8 miles north of Lincoln City on Route 101 is Neskowin Creek RV Resort in Neskowin, OR
gotsmart 01/18/17 11:24pm Beginning RVing
RE: Propane question

To to OP: I use 20 lb (gas grill) tanks for external tanks on my MH. During the past month the temperatures here have been down to about 25F at times. My propane furnace doesn't have a problem with low temperatures. What it does have a problem with is when there is only bout a half gallon or less of propane in the external tank. The furnace does not want to ignite when the fuel level is too low for it to operate. Another thing that I have noticed is when the propane level gets too low that there is a change to the quality of the flames on the burners on the cooktop. Another telltale sign that the fuel level is very low. https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3817/11749303956_711db287d5_n.jpg
gotsmart 01/13/17 12:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Olympic Peninsula -- How to plan a week long trip???

Sequim Bay State Park (located half way between Sequim and 7 Cedars Casino) park map. I believe the "Upper Loop" has a 25 foot length limit for the RV.
gotsmart 01/11/17 11:39pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Cummins Onan RV Generator code 45

Hi, I have a 2013 Voltage toy hauler with a Cummins Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP gasoline generator, with 45 total hours. New battery. Model #: 5.5HGJAB-6755J Serial #: D120326173 ... This is what the Serial # says about your genset. Month built: D = April Year built: 12 = 2012 Build location: 0 = Fridley, MN Active Serial # 326173
gotsmart 01/08/17 11:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Blue Ox base plate vs Roadmaster Tor Bar Bracket

j-d The EZ2 brackets that the OP is referring to are round. They also employ the 1/4 turn twist lock. On my smart car I have Roadmaster EZ2 brackets with a Falcon 2 tow bar. Other versions of Roadmaster's "EZ" brackets are square. (click image for larger version) https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8424/7796905820_5d9207fe4c_z_d.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7796923234_15f0033da8_z_d.jpg
gotsmart 01/08/17 11:33pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Does costco give discount off of posted fuel price.

One benefit of Costco gas is that it is TOP TIER gas. linky to TOP TIER branded gasoline.
gotsmart 01/05/17 04:48pm General RVing Issues
RE: Thetford valve issue/repair. 2 part question

Guessing cutting it all out and using rubber couplers is my only option unless someone out there has a better idea. We're currently snow birding in the rig for the winter which makes it a tougher job. If I cut it all out and it doesn't go as plan the rig becomes unlivable till I figure out a plan B. If you were to install Valterra valves, I would recommend taking the RV to a service center. Let them own the problem. The tolerances for the Valterra valve to fit properly have to be spot on. All this assumes that you want to be able to replace a valve by yourself in the future. Below is my black valve. To the left is the "Y", and on the other side of the "Y" is the gray valve. I keep spare valves. They are easy enough to change out, but I would not want to be the one to do the initial assembly to make the "Y" line up perfectly between the valves. https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2843/11499872614_84d3656212.jpg
gotsmart 01/05/17 04:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery disconnect switches

Amazon for $7.50. Marvin Clicky X2. I have it in my toad. https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8308/7796437964_0402227cd5.jpg
gotsmart 12/30/16 11:31pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Repair Sagging Jayco J-Steel Sofa Seat

Jack knife sofas make an awful bed. If you want to sleep overnight on it, buy an air mattress that fits its dimensions (when opened as a bed) and put it on top of the sofa. When laid out as a bed the gap between the seat back and the seat cushion becomes very uncomfortable. Been there. Done that.
gotsmart 12/29/16 02:16pm Tech Issues
RE: LED Light Considerations

I'll refer to my previous post in this thread. 1141 bulb specs = 12.8V , 1.44 amps , 18.4 watts (double amps/watts for 2nd bulb in a double pancake) Thin-Lite Dist-LED312-1 specs = 12V , .29 amps (400 lumens) or .58 amps (800 lumens) , 3.48 watts (400 lumens) or 6.96 watts (800 lumens) two 1141 double pancake lights with both bulbs lit = 4 * 1.44 amps = 5.76 amps three 1141 double pancake lights with both bulbs lit = 6 * 1.44 amps = 8.64 amps about a 3 amp increase causes 12V side of my 7345 to heat up enough to turn the cooling fan on. nine LED double pancake lights with both LEDs lit = 18 * .29 amps = 5.22 amps. The converter's cooling fan does not turn on. ----- Now as noted previous, if you're camping with hookups then LED versus incandescent will not make much difference. That is correct, but that is not my point. I have an 11 year old converter. It matters to the converter. It may be getting tired (I assume that it has never been replaced). I don't know what size fuse serves the lighting. The converter is located on the side of the rear bed's pedestal. I'm not as limber as I once was (that I ever was limber is an an assumption on my part). I can wait until the fuse blows. I wanted to upgraded the lighting anyway. So I spent $350+ USD on LED fixtures. They do everything I need from them, and they solve my converter's heat problem. - Nice bright light, lens covers only warm to the touch - not hot like the 1141s. - no more 1141 lens covers with holes burned through them from the 1141 bulbs. - no more worrying about how many lights I can have turned on before the converter's fan starts spinning. - a quiet converter is a happy converter.
gotsmart 12/21/16 02:01am Tech Issues
RE: LED Light Considerations

@Desert Captain Why? For me it was about my converter's fan. In a word: Amps. I had 9 of the below (1141) double pancake lights in my MH. I replaced then with Thin-Lite LED double pancake lights. http://thumbs3.picclick.com/d/w1600/pict/230554700130_/NEW-12V-12-VOLT-DOUBLE-PANCAKE-CEILING-LIGHT.jpg width=640 If I turned 3 of the 1141 double pancakes lights on (both side - 6 bulbs) the converter's fan would start up after about 15 minutes. The converter was OK when 4 bulbs were lit. With the LED double pancake lights I can have every single one turned on (both sides) without the converter fan coming on. Also, In the bathroom I have a 14 speed Fantastic Vent that shares 12V with the ceiling light (double pancake). When it was an 1141 pancake light the fan would slow down when I turned the light on (even just 1 bulb). With the LED pancake light the fan does not slow down - even with both sides lit. For me I wanted better lights with better on/off switches than on the one pictured above - AND - I didn't want to overtax my Parallax 7345.
gotsmart 12/20/16 07:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Route to Olympic peninsula

To the OP, I'm at an RV park in Sequim. Peak Season for the WADOT ferries is May 1 through September 30. Mount Vernon to Sequim: via Coupeville/Port Townsend ferry: Rt 536 to Rt 20 to Rt 101. about 82 miles. Most direct route, but may also take 5-6 hours to complete - based on ferry schedule. If the 2017 ferry rates don't change much from 2016, a 60' to 70' RV costs about $101 USD (1 way) during peak season. via Edmonds/Kington ferry: I5 to Rt 104 to Rt 101. about 100 miles. more frequent sailings, costs more. a 60' to 70' RV costs about $131 USD (1 way) during peak season. via I5/Tacoma: I5 S to Rt 16 to Rt 3 to Rt 104 to Rt 101. about 190 miles. no tolls. via I5/Olympia: I5 and Rt 101: I5 S to Olympia to Rt 101. about 230 miles. no tolls. Rest-A-While RV park is off Rt 101 in Hoodsport, WA. 70 miles south of Sequim My thoughts: I don't like taking an RV through Deception Pass (Rt 20). Road is twisty and narrow. If there is construction or an accident the road comes to a stop. Guard rails in places look like they were built during the WPA, or CCC, or chain-gangs, or by Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble. I've never taken the Kingston ferry. Driving I5 from Joint Base Lewis-McCord to west of Olympia sucks. West of Olympia, all the way up Rt 101 to Sequim is a nice Scenic drive. Views of Puget Sound, Olympic National Forest, small tourist trap towns, yadda, yadda, yadda. I5 to Tacoma, up Rt 16, is probably the most cost effective route to take. You'll have a view of the ships docked at Bangor Naval Base. RV parks in the Port Townsend/Sequim/Port Angeles area: Escapees SKP park in Chimacum, WA Fort Worden in Port Townsend Diamond Point Resort in Sequim Sequim Bay State Park John Wayne Marina in Sequim GilGal Oasis RV Park in Sequim Rainbow's End RV Park in Sequim Conestoga Quarters RV Park in Port Angeles Salt Creek Recreation Area
gotsmart 12/18/16 03:34am Roads and Routes
RE: Microwave removal

This link is a photo album of the removal of my Sharp Carousel microwave convection oven. My unit is a countertop microwave. It sits on a shelf inside the cabinet and the only thing holding it in place is the screws on the trim kit. 1) unplug the cord from the AC outlet and push the cord back into the cabinet behind the microwave. 2) You may want to pause here for a day to allow the capacitors inside the microwave to discharge - before opening up the microwave. 3) remove the screws from the trim plate. If the microwave is at about shoulder height then a helper to assist with removing it is recommended. Shoulder height can be an uncomfortable height to lift 30-40 lbs from. 4) remove the microwave from the cabinet. A third person present would be helpful to make sure that the microwave's AC cord doesn't get hung up on anything during the removal process. 5) remove the trim kit from the microwave. This gains you access to remove the microwave's case. Before reinstalling the microwave into the cabinet, tie about a 6 foot long string to the end of the AC cord. Fish the string through the hole where the AC cord needs to go. Have someone pull on the string to pull the AC cord back through the hole as the microwave is being reinstalled. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1499/26387590146_c4fa11e485_z_d.jpg
gotsmart 12/18/16 12:49am Tech Issues
RE: Where in SE US in summer?

Where do you go to escape high temps & humidity in the summer months? Wondering about western PA, Tenn., or the Florida panhandle. Would want to keep costs moderate... Thanks! So,.... Pooly Yip is not cool enough in the summer? :B I know several RVing folks who summer in Alaska and winter here in OlyPen. Have you done a road trip to the Last Frontier?
gotsmart 12/16/16 06:20pm Full-time RVing
RE: 30 amp male plug to 50 amp female

my post was based on the OP's request for a very short shore cable. It would probably cost more to create a custom length shore cable than to buy retail cable. ... Need six feet of wire to plug in camper , so I don't have to leave a 25 foot 50 amp cord laying on the ground for thieves! ....
gotsmart 12/15/16 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Waste Valve Always CLOSED or Always OPEN?

I have a 2013 Crossroads Lincoln 39FN. I drain and fully flush the blank tank put in additive with a couple of gallons of water. I am getting a terrible stink after a day or so when I run the bathroom fan. So I drain the black tank and every time the colored water is bright and sparkling no sign of waste until ten seconds or so then the waste and paper will start to empty. It is almost like the additive is in the lower part of the tank not mixing with the waste in the rest of the tank. Any suggestions. One thing that can affect the smell from the toilet is the location of the roof vent for the black tank with respect to the bathroom exhaust fan. If the tank vent is too close, when the exhaust fan is running and the toilet is flushing then the exhaust fan can draw air in from the black tank vent - through the black tank - up through the toilet - and into the bathroom. Above the small window on my Class C is a Cyclone Vent. It can help - some, by having the wind point it and draw air from the blank tank - away from your RV. https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/11748516585_ed6362353e_z_d.jpg http://images3.campingworld.com/CampingWorld/images/products/3000/originals/31992ndiagram.jpg height=480 width=581
gotsmart 12/15/16 07:59pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp male plug to 50 amp female

10 foot long 30 amp extension cable for $28 USD. Nice short length. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/6161B49PzPL._SL1280_.jpg height=291 width=240 You could cut off the female end and replace it with a 50 amp connector. It might be cheaper to buy one of these dogbones for $40 USD. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61LFpKfFpEL._SL1000_.jpg height=240 width=240
gotsmart 12/15/16 07:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan Microlite 4000 Issues

The model is 4KYFA261OOE and serial number is A963467799. I checked the DC volts with the generator start button held and measured the voltage between pin 7 and 3 on the voltage regulator and only got 0.85 volts 4KYFA261OOE Kilowatts: 4 = 4000 (4000 Watts) Product Family: KY Starting method: F (remote startable) Voltage & Frequency code: A (120 volt, 60-Hz) Specification number: 26100 (code for options & special features) Specification letter: E (Used to identify major design or manufacturing changes) A963467799 Month built: A = January Year built: 96 = 1996 Build location: 3 = Huntsville, Alabama Active Serial # 467799
gotsmart 12/13/16 03:37am Tech Issues
RE: Never-MT

You can do that just by drilling a hole into a soap jug lid, plastic hose, and a new pump (if actually needed!!). Have that in the house for probably 15 yrs now, with no problems. Doesn't have (or need) the check valve. I think there is one in the pump handle. Yours probably just needs cleaning. As to the strap, that's pretty cheap too, just get a velcro strap!! Can be done for a lot less than $18.00!!!! You are correct. I can't be bothered to MacGyver something anymore if someone else already has a solution. I'm at at point in life where if I have a problem and see a solution - and the cost/my effort ratio is affordable - then I say to myself "That'll do", and I buy it.
gotsmart 12/10/16 03:56pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)

So I have this in-counter soap dispenser in the kitchen and in the bathroom. It worked fine for about 6 months. Then, after pulling the pump out to refill it, it would not dispense any soap. PITA. What to do? https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7847383420_2f0784fef7_z_d.jpg height=320 width=240 I was puttering around on Amazon and found this soap dispenser: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31EOpW%2BZaBL.jpg height=250 width=250 There is a review for it that talks about a product called: Never-MT that replaces the soap bottle under the sink with a hose that goes into a large refill bottle of hand soap. It looks like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/419%2BZTQPVkL.jpg 3 feet of hose - with a check valve, and various sizes of pre-drilled caps. Super-simple. It works like a charm! Note: It does not work with all brands of soap dispensers. YMMV I'll run through the instructions - sans photos (didn't take any) 1) install the base of the soap dispenser in the counter. Do not screw the soap bottle that come with the dispenser onto it. 2) from the Never-MT kit, screw the cap that fits your refill bottle of soap onto the refill bottle of soap. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41r%2BBqRnusL.jpg height=240 width=240 3) slide the remaining caps from the Never-MT kit onto the long section of hose. This is a good way to store them to be used in the future. 4) slide the short end of the hose beneath the counter and up through the base of the soap dispenser. Secure it from falling back down into the counter. 5) heat water to be used to warm up the short length of hose to make it easier to slide the short end of the hose onto the dispenser pump. 6) place the last inch or so of the short end of the hose into the hot water. Let it soak for a minute or so. 7) slide the short end of the hose onto the bottom of the dispenser pump. Push it all the way on. I did not even bother to install the straw onto the bottom of the dispenser pump. It was easier to not use the straw. 8) install the dispenser pump into the dispenser base. 9) install the long end of the hose through the 3/8 inch hole in the cap on your bottle of refill soap. Slide the hose to the bottom of the bottle. Adjust the spare caps higher up on the hose as needed. 10) pump the dispenser 250 to 350 times - until soap dispenses. I did all of the above. The way my sinks are set up I don't have to worry about securing the refill bottle from tipping in transit. You may need to secure the soap refill bottle. This is awesome! No more *groan* bending over and looking up under the counter to see if the bottle needs refilling. I just look at the refill bottle and swap it out just before the hose starts sucking air.
gotsmart 12/10/16 12:33am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS