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 > Your search for posts made by 'gotsmart' found 139 matches.

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RE: Shower drain

Several months ago I had a guy wash and detail my MH. I also had him snake the shower drain from the shower roof vent. He pulled out a lot of hair. The shower now drains properly. I have 3 roof vents. The shower, kitchen sink, and toilet have their own roof vents. The bathroom sink has one of those sink air vents on its drain.
gotsmart 11/25/15 04:58pm General RVing Issues
RE: Sheet Metal Nibbler / Good Brand?

This is the nibbler that I used to have. It could give your hand a workout. After you were done using it, you could look at your palm and watch the blood return to your hand. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61442i6Mv9L._SL1400_.jpg height=250 width=250
gotsmart 11/19/15 03:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Microwave replacement

In December 2014 my Sharp R820BK microwave/convection oven just stopped working. I woke up one morning and went to heat something in the microwave and the was no time being displayed. Nothing worked on the keypad. It worked fine the day before. The AC outlet tested fine. I put off removing it and looking at it until earlier this month. I removed the microwave and opened the case. The Littelfuse Series 314 20A 250V fast acting ceramic cartridge fuse had blown. I bought a 5-pack of the exact same fuse on eBay for $6.53 USD, including shipping. I replaced the fuse and life returned to the microwave. If one's microwave quits - without an apparent catastrophic failure - check the internal fuse. Replacing the fuse may be all that is needed.
gotsmart 11/18/15 11:01pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: reviews of the extended service plan?

... Does Good Same sell extended warranty coverage for higher-mileage vehicles like this? If so, what is the max mileage cap? Thanks! Last time I checked - GoodSam ESP only covered motorhomes with less than 80,000 miles on the odometer.
gotsmart 11/14/15 12:40am Good Sam Extended Service Plan
RE: Good Read about Circuit Breakers (Debunking Myths)

I centrally located my 1500W ceramic space heater to provide all-around heat distribution. This places it near enough to the kitchen sink - a "wet" zone - to cause concern. Because of this I wanted GFCI protection added to it. I found this at Walmart. It's a single plug 15amp GFCI extension cord. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41salHMc6IL._SY450_.jpg height=150 width=150 At the time I did not think about going to a home center. I just checked Home Depot using http://www.homedepot.com/s/gfci%2520cord. They have several similar products. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/f9/f915a697-cbd7-4b05-879a-54bb5e3400d2_400.jpg height=100 width=100http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/74/74e49775-71c6-46c1-92b8-9cc16175d392_400.jpg height=100 width=100http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/a3/a303bdf8-3fcc-4a59-8496-22f63bf60760_400.jpg height=100 width=100
gotsmart 11/13/15 11:58am Tech Issues
RE: Living in my RV to experience a new city... Portland, OR

One thing to think about..if you own a home in Utah and work in Portland you will have a residency issue. :h I lived in New Hampshire and drove 15 miles into Massachusetts to my employer - for 10+ years. I paid non-resident income tax to MA. No big deal. The OP is in an RV. What LEO is going to tag an RV with out-of-state plates for not registering in-state after 30 days? If that were true then every snowbird RV resort in the southwest would be a target rich environment for the state police.
gotsmart 11/13/15 10:58am Full-time RVing
RE: Norcold Fridge Door Reinforcement Brackets Installed

I should have said: as opposed to raised wood panels. It may technically be a wood insert on my fridge, but it feels like 1/8 inch thick luan with a veneer. It's that thin.
gotsmart 11/02/15 11:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Norcold Fridge Door Reinforcement Brackets Installed

For reference. This is the Norcold N621 from my 2005 CA 28R. It is a left-side open. It does not have wood inserts in the doors. I have not had any problems with the hinges. https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8297/7937520856_5570207068_n.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8441/7937519986_7d049af1cd_n.jpg
gotsmart 11/02/15 08:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What happened to my mirror, Why, and what's the fix?

I had wanted to upgrade my older 2-arm mirrors with the single-arm mirror because the 2-arm mirrors do not extend far enough, IMO, beyond the coach. A certain CA franchisee told me not to upgrade my older 2-arm mirrors with the single-arm mirror because the single-arm breaks and they have to repair them. Now I know why. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/601/22586736436_f0b14e2072_z.jpg
gotsmart 10/29/15 05:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sticker says "Start Genny, then plug in cord..."???

On my Onan MQ 4000 I have to unplug from the pedestal and manually plug the 30A shore cable into an outlet in the MH when using the generator. I just reread the startup procedure for the generator in the manual for my MH. When starting and stopping the generator, you must turn off all electrical appliances, roof a/c and microwave or any outlets currently in use. There are zero references in the generator section of the manual about when to plug the shore cable into the outlet. Just like the instructions say, I turn off all 110v appliances - although I leave the fridge on AUTO. I then plug the shore cable into the outlet, go inside the MH to start the generator, then I wait a minute or so after it has started so it can settle down, and then I turn on my 110v appliances as needed. That's it.
gotsmart 10/19/15 01:26am Tech Issues

Here is another listing that has 10 reviews, is a couple dollars cheaper, and the listing seems to be better formatted than in previous links posted.
gotsmart 10/19/15 01:02am General RVing Issues
RE: Wire size on 30 amp RV cables

... When we are using our setup in the cold weather we try to use the 20AMP PEDESTAL service at the camp grounds using a second HD Extension cord running into the trailer to just run our portable electric heaters. This 20AMP service doesn't pull power from the same leg the 30A source is using to feed the trailer. .... Be mindful of 20 amp outlets on 30/20 pedestals - especially in older parks. Unless you know the park in question and how the sites are wired, that 20 amp outlet may not have its own path to the bus bar. If you're at an older "30 amp only" park, don't be so sure about the 'separate leg' thing. I was on a crew that pulled the 20 amp outlets from pedestals in an older park - because the 20 amp outlet and its 20 amp breaker were daisy-chained off of the 30 amp socket. Don't get me wrong. There is a convenience factor to having the 20 amp outlet, but when folks started heavily using the 20 amp outlet for supplemental power on pedestals that I described above they were robbing power from their own coaches. It tripped breakers, caused phone calls to the office to complain about the power, etc. Since no amount of explaining can fix "stupid", the solution was to rip out the 20 amp outlets and install cover plates over the opening for the breaker and the outlet.
gotsmart 10/12/15 09:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: LED light upgrade in my Class C

You could also throw something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-5050-White-Landscaping-Light/dp/B00K67ULV0/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1444142464&sr=8-11&keywords=RV+LED+light+5050 Into your existing housings. The flat pancake style ones work better than the round ones, and make sure they're 5050 LEDs or higher if you want them bright. I replaced half of mine with 5050s, the other half with 3528s when I didn't need as much light. I replaced 9 of the below light fixture for 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to upgrade to LEDs, and 2) the 3-position switch (off, 1 bulb, 2 bulbs), in my experience, has a high failure rate. On the most frequently used lights the contacts on the "1 bulb" position get worn out - requiring one to use the "2 bulb" position to get the light to turn on. I've installed replacement fixtures several times. It became such a major PITA that just installing LED bulbs wouldn't fix the bad switches. I said "to heck with it" and replaced all of the fixtures with LED fixtures. The switch on the LED fixtures has a good solid feel to it. Time will tell how well the Thin-Lite fixtures work. http://thumbs3.picclick.com/d/w1600/pict/230554700130_/NEW-12V-12-VOLT-DOUBLE-PANCAKE-CEILING-LIGHT.jpg width=640
gotsmart 10/06/15 09:42pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LED light upgrade in my Class C

The beauty of Robertsons are the screw stays on the end of the screwdriver whether up or down or sideways if you have the proper size. ( there are three ). I have a couple of screwdrivers that I inherited from my grandfather. They have a sleeve that slides on the shaft of the driver. There are 2 one inch long fingers on the sleeve. You put the screw on the driver and slide the sleeve down the shaft until the fingers hook onto the back of the screw head. It works like a charm - and these tools were made circa 1930.
gotsmart 10/02/15 05:13pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LED light upgrade in my Class C

Looks pretty good there around the sink, nice work. You're looking at 1141 pancake lights from the day that I purchased the MH. It is a reference photo to show the location of the light outside of the shower that has a large wiring bundle hidden in the ceiling above it.
gotsmart 10/02/15 05:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LED light upgrade in my Class C

I'm curious why you consider the square head screws to be "crummy". Do you not have a proper square-tipped (Robertson) screwdriver or screwdriver bit? They would be horrid with a Phillips bit, I suppose, just as a Phillips is pretty horrid with a flat bit. At least in my limited experience, they are far less likely to strip out or fail to work properly than Phillips or flat head screws. The very first tool I bought for my RV was a decent square-drive screwdriver, and it gets a lot of use. I used an S1 bit in a manual ratcheting driver. I don't know where CA got the screws in 2004/2005 that are in my MH, but the heads on the screws are ever-so-slightly larger than the S1 bit that I have, and some were slightly rounded in the corners - like what you'd find from aggressive use of a screw gun. My S2 bit was too large. Instead of "crummy" I should have said "cheap" or "not well made". I had 9 lights to replace. That's 36 screws. 4 or 5 of them took ten times the effort to remove than all the others. Other than that the install was fine. BTW, one will be amazed at what one can find laying on the inside of a pancake light when it is removed: - the cutout from the hole saw - wire nuts - a 2 inch wood screw laying across the switch in the cabinet over the head of the rear bed. ??? - a purple-colored wooden bead from a necklace or wristband in the light over the kitchen sink. Seriously
gotsmart 10/02/15 04:57pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
LED light upgrade in my Class C

I replaced 9 pancake lights and 1 single pancake light in my Cruise America 28R with LED versions from Thin-Lite. Sorry no pictures. Here is the link to the double pancake lights. Here is the link to the single pancake light. It is about a $350 USD upgrade, but it was well worth it IMO. The on/off switch on the LED lights feels solid. On the 1141 pancake lights, the switch would wear out (I replaced several over time due to failed switches). I have a 14-speed Fantastic Fan in the bathroom. It gets its power from an adjacent pancake light. With the fan on high, turning on the 1141 pancake light would slow the fan speed. With the LED light there was no change to the fan speed. With several of the LED double pancake lights turned fully on there was no change to the fan speed. These LED lights are bright though. If you're used to working in a cubicle farm with overhead fluorescent lights then you'll be OK with them. IMO, the white light of the LED in the bathroom is much better than the warm yelllow light from the 1141 bulbs. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71a0S73PR4L._SL1500_.jpg height=240 width=320 http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31JoxTgJU2L.jpg height=320 width=240 Installation: The LED double pancake lights are virtually a direct replacement for the 1141 double pancake lights that I had. I was able to reuse the (aweful square-bit) original screws and wire nuts from the 1141 double pancake lights when installing the LED lights. The distance between the screw holes in the 4 corners of the LED lights are a millimeter or 2 wider than on the 1141 double pancake lights. Using the original screws and my fingers, I was able to nudge the screws into the original screw holes. This pleased me because I'm screwing into luann and high density foam. The pressure applied to nudge the screws into the original holes means that the lights are very well secured to the ceiling with virtually no chance of falling off it. In several cases I needed to use needle-nosed pliers to gently pull the wire nuts out of the ceiling/hole. In one case I could not reach the wire nuts and had to cut the wires on the 1141 pancake light. More on that in a moment. In the case of the single pancake light on the side of the cabinet in the cabover, after pulling the wire nuts out of the cabinet I had to use needle-nosed vice grip locking pliers to keep the wires from going back into the cabinet after removing the wire nuts. When I installed the new single pancake light on the side of the cabinet for the cabover, the screw holes did not line up with the screw holes of the 1141 single pancake light. I used one screw to install the LED light using one of the existing screw holes. I positioned it for level and tightened the screw just enough to keep it in place. Then I used a drill with a very small diameter bit to drill pilot holes in the cabinet through the other 3 screw holes on the LED light. I then screwed the light to the cabinet using the 1 inch screws from the hardware packet, well... because I don't need 1.25 inch screws for the cabinet and the CA screws have crummy square-bit heads and the 1 inch screws have phillips heads. The trouble spot: Refer to the 1141 double pancake light on the ceiling outside of the shower door in the below picture. After removing the 1141 light, I discovered that the hole in the ceiling contained the 12V wiring harness for the rest of the lights. It was a nest of wires. I could not get to the wire nuts for the light. I had to cut the wires at the back of the 1141 pancake light and use then to connect to the new LED pancake light. A minor irritation -> PITA. The "fun" part was trying to neatly stuff all the wiring back into the ceiling so that the new light could be installed. Shipping note: I purchased the LED lights in 3 separate orders from Amazon - several weeks apart. 1st order: I bought 1 LED double pancake light - as a test case to see how well it installed and worked. In the Amazon box was the light in its retail box. The light was in a plastic sleeve with a hardware packet of 4 one inch screws and 2 small wire nuts. 2nd order: I bought 3 LED double pancake lights and 1 single pancake light. In the Amazon box were 4 lights, each in its plastic sleeve - wrapped in bubble wrap. There were no retail boxes or hardware packets. Although it is a w.t.f. moment, the lights were in perfect condition and I used the existing screws and wire nuts to install them. 3rd order: I bought 5 LED double pancake lights (1 is an extra). In the Amazon box was 5 lights, in their retail boxes with hardware packets. https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8447/7937521690_36f3f80f58_z.jpg
gotsmart 10/02/15 01:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Propane Extend-A-Stay

This is the Stay-A-While Deluxe: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8426/7796513374_e038868e0d_z.jpg
gotsmart 09/29/15 10:42pm Full-time RVing
RE: New Class C owner stability control??

Few men are more expert in RV driving/handling issues than the Henderson clan in Grants Pass Oregon. I made it a point to visit there and saw it as a pilgrimage, those guys are that good. They install a lot of Roadmaster items and of course they make and install the Super Steer product line. I visited Hendersons Line Up and Super Steer while I was there, separate buildings at the same site. Oddly to me, they like the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer. I would have expected them to carry Roadmaster's Reflex stabilizer but didn't get into discussion of why. John Henderson did alignments for years, and did the E-Series with the additional caster discussed so often here. 5* left and 5.5* right, left camber +1/4*, right camber 0* and just a little positive toe. He said adding an S-T-P unit to the front was equivalent to upping the caster. That surprised me, yet it seemed they're doing less caster changes and more S-T-P installs. Anyhow, Reflex should offer the same benefits as S-T-P. I can see where it might be a little harder to adjust since it uses one coil spring in a push/pull setup vs. two coils in S-T-P where one spring extends as the other compresses. Just remember what I said earlier: Any stabilizer with springs MUST be installed dead center, or it'll introduce a steering "pull" that wasn't there before. Sounds familiar. It's what I have on my E450. http://forums.goodsamclub.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26960889/gotomsg/26994178.cfm#26994178
gotsmart 09/23/15 11:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Attention RV manufactures, I want only one KEY!!

If you have a Trimark door handle that supports Trimark's KeyOne™ Plus locking, then the lock and deadbolt can be keyed to the same key. Examples: MH & FW http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=22&categoryid=12 http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=152&categoryid=12 TT http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=44&categoryid=12 http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=45&categoryid=12
gotsmart 09/22/15 07:12pm General RVing Issues
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