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 > Your search for posts made by 'gotsmart' found 143 matches.

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RE: Getting credit card with no residential address

The Providing Appropriate Tools Required to Intercept and Obstruct Terrorism Act of 2001 (aka Patriot Act) predates my going fulltime (in 2011) by 10 years. My insurance(s), credit union, cell phone bill, pension, credit cards, yadda, yadda, yadda - all got changed in 2011 to my PMB. My drivers license is the exception. When I went to change the address I presented the clerk with my cell phone bill (with the PMB syntax in the address). She tried to use the PMB syntax and the computer system would not recognize it. So I said "What about using the # sign?" She said "Yup, that works." For me the take away was: if PMB doesn't work, use the # sign. If that doesn't work, use Apt #. Apparently, other than the USPS it matters little to everyone else.
gotsmart 08/27/15 10:26am Full-time RVing
RE: Getting credit card with no residential address

Yes, the Patriot act does hold lenders to a higher standard for customer verification. Credit cards are very often used to illicitly move money and fund nefarious conduct. As a practical matter, someone living in a post office box is going to be very hard to collect from should they decide to stop paying. Combine the two and getting credit without an address is going to be difficult. And using the street address for the PMB company isn't going to help. All bank software is sophisticated enough to ferret out those addresses as being mail forwarding services. Like it or not, it is a problem full time RVers have to live with. hmmm... I'm been using the PMB syntax on my street address for my BofA and AMEX credit cards since my 1st day of FullTiming. It's been several years now. No red flags. I must be doing something wrong.
gotsmart 08/26/15 11:55pm Full-time RVing
RE: sheesh...they don't make em like they used to!

I replaced my failed regulator about 2 months ago with this Marshall unit. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31yIluE0BmL.jpg
gotsmart 08/26/15 07:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: Removable Solar battery maintainer for chassis battery

I'm currently working at an RV park and the parasitic draw in my E450 has already drained the chassis battery once. Two comments: 1) Why does this occur ? My E450 will sit for weeks and weeks and still be good. AFAIK the only parasitic drain is the memory for the radio and some engine computers. Try letting it set 4, 5, 6 months at a time without starting the engine. I'm a bit lazy in this regard during the dry season. You know the battery is dying when the cab's dome light won't come on or the power door lock switch doesn't lock the doors. 2)I really don't think that 5 watts is enough to do any actual good. It's enough. Read the product reviews in the Amazon link. I wanted a unit that is capable of negating the parasitic draw. The customer reviews indicate the 5W panel works fine for this purpose. If I had wanted more I would have bought a Battery Tender. The other reason for going with this solar panel is that it is not taking any amps away from the pedestal. I start mine every 30 days or so and let it run for 15-30 minutes. This charges both sets of batteries.....if I remember to throw the battery disconnect switch for the coach. My MH has no battery disconnect switches. It's plugged into a pedestal, so charging the coach battery is not a problem. I don't bother starting the engines (includes the generator) during the summer dry season here. I do exercise the engines in the winter rainy season about every month and a half - to cook the moisture out of them from the super-high humidity.
gotsmart 08/21/15 08:57am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Removable Solar battery maintainer for chassis battery

How well is it working for you? What wattage solar panel? Is this to keep your coach battery topped? I have a TT but still interested in the post. It is a 5 watt panel. For details click on the very 1st link in the post. Yes, its purpose is to keep the chassis battery topped off. My coach battery is maintained by the converter, but it does not maintain the chassis (truck) battery.
gotsmart 08/20/15 11:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Removable Solar battery maintainer for chassis battery

I'm currently working at an RV park and the parasitic draw in my E450 has already drained the chassis battery once. I put a battery charger on the chassis battery, charged it up and it came back to life. So I bought a 5W solar charger for the purpose of maintaining the charge in the battery. I wanted to hang it in a window to keep it out of the weather and from those discount shop at other people's RV sites. Here is my solution. The pictures are clickable so you can view a larger image and zoom in on it. Go Power! GP-SF-5 SUNfilm 5 Watt Solar Panel The windows in my Cruise America 28R have top and bottom wooden rails on which the curtains slide. This mod is specific to RVs with similar window shade setups. With this setup I can easily remove the solar panel before driving away. I can also move the panel to a window on the drivers side when that side is facing south. What makes this work is the fact the the cigarette lighter on my dashboard is live at all times. This lets the solar panel backfeed power into the chassis battery. One should unplug the solar panel before starting the MH's engine. I don't know if it will damage the solar panel, but I'm not going to find out. The solar panel's cord easily reaches the cigarette lighter port on my E450's dashboard. The robe hooks are hanging on the top rail. There are 4 holes in the frame of the solar panel for mounting purposes. The mirror clips are screwed to the back of the panel - with the hook facing the window. I used 2 pieces of 12 inch chain to distribute the weight better across the robe hooks. Material list for mounting (all from Home Depot): Over-the-Door Single Robe Hook in White (2 Per Pack) 6 in. L x 4 in. W Fixed-Mount Mirror Mounting Clips (4-Pack) (clips are actually 1 5/8 in. L x 1/2 in. W) #8-32 x 1 in. Phillips-Slotted Pan-Head Machine Screws (4-Pack) #8-32 Coarse Stainless Steel Nylon Lock Nut (4 per Pack) #8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer (12-Pack) #100 x 1 ft. Black Decorator Chain (QTY 2 @ 12 inches each) https://farm1.staticflickr.com/627/20692929496_69bce8b7b1_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5764/20719174675_04be88914a_z.jpg
gotsmart 08/20/15 09:17pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Smart Car Supplemental brake

If I had known about the ReadyBrute Elite when I bought my smart car, I would have gone that route. I would have used the ReadyStop for the breakaway requirement. I went with a Roadmaster Falcon 2. At some point I may add a ReadyBrake (different from the Elite) to my Falcon 2. I may also add the ReadyStop as well. A smart car is very light - at just over 1,800 lbs (US). I like the simplicity of NSA's system in a smart car instead of a brake controller. Yes it is a surge brake, but it is simple to maintain and, IMO, the ReadyBrake system is more than adequate for a smart car.
gotsmart 08/19/15 05:31pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Don't Understand Value Of 3-Valve Hot Water Bypass

This is the 3 valve HWH bypass on my 28R. The top and bottom valves close the inlet and outlet to the water heater and the middle valve opens/closes the bypass. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/11499864394_5d3ee647c8.jpg
gotsmart 08/15/15 05:20pm Class C Motorhomes

We purchased a trailer for towing our Smart Car vs. all four wheels on the ground. This option puts no wear& tear on the Smart Car when traveling. It allows you to back up when needed, & cost just a little more than the Blue-Ox tow assembly, mods to front of Smart Car & breaking hardware. The following is a full description of the trailer and options. You don't even know its behind you going down the road. {cut} Cost breakdown Base trailer $2795.00 Options Accent Package - $130 Spare Tire mounted on Passenger side mount, hydraulic jack included $150 LED Tail Lights - $60 Rear Jack Stands - $100 Receiver for Hitch Bike Racks - $75 Front receiver also added (20140320) $75 Full plate covered trailer deck $125 TOTAL $3510 The ghost of W.C. Fields must have seen you coming. HolyMoly!
gotsmart 08/13/15 03:14pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Cruise America awning quality

My Cruise America 28R did not come with an awning. When sitting down to sign the P&S, CA offered to install an awning - for a price. They did the same thing with the extended warranty offer. I don't do "good for today only" offers. I declined both.
gotsmart 08/08/15 08:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Matching Receiver and Base Plate Height Using Drop Receiver

Basically the more out-of-level the toe bar is, the more stress that is placed on the tow bar arms. This is made worse by the weight of the toad during braking. An extreme example: During heavy braking of any vehicle the front end goes down and the rear end goes up. This is normal for any vehicle - the nose dives and the rear flies. Now add a tow bar to the back of a MH that is too far out of level with the toad. It doesn't matter if you have an H1 that is 14 inches higher the receiver, or my smart car that is 4 inches lower than my receiver. The tow bar's U-joint doesn't have a tongue weight rating. It's not designed to carry the weight of the toad. It's designed to have the toad push into it. Granted, the front end of a toad may get air from time to time - usually on bad campground roads (happened to me in Coeur d'Alene) - and the tow bar companies know this. It's the sustained stress on the U-joint and tow bar arms from an out-of level towbar that needs to be avoided. I drive a former Cruise America rental unit that is already low to the ground - by design. I have a 4 inch drop extension on the receiver for my rolling snot bubble. I don't have training wheels on the receiver. Every driveway and curb cut that that I enter, I do it slowly and at a 45 degree angle. If I cannot enter without bottom-ing out then I don't enter at all. This is from Roadmaster: http://roadmasterinc.com/img/safe_zone.png This is from Ready Brake: http://www.readybrake.com/faq.html What other issues could I run into? Tow bars need to be level to the ground when installed correctly. The National Standard for correct tow bar levelness is (+) or (-) 2" inches. This allows for a forward push by your towed vehicle. Having the tow bar too far from level puts a great deal of stress on your towing system and can also cause you to lose control of your RV in adverse conditions when heavy braking is applied. To measure levelness just subtract the difference in height of the center of your RV receiver from the ground with the height of the center of your baseplate tabs on the towed vehicle from the ground. Most baseplate brands list an approximate tab height for each vehicle on their websites if you do not have a baseplate installed to measure yet. If a drop or rise is needed we also manufacture hitches for this.
gotsmart 08/05/15 09:48pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Refrigerator door travel lock

changing the height to 480 will make them look better.
gotsmart 07/31/15 05:30pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Purchased Damaged (without knowledge) RV from Camping World

The tires will ALWAYS be dated older the motor home. In that date range, they may be the Michelin M/S that had a recall and will be replaced free by Michelin. Check that out. Not true for every rental outfit. I bought my 2005 Cruise America 28R in 2011. It has 109,000 miles on the odometer. It had 2010 dated tires on it. This is Cruise America's policy. When a CA unit gets pulled from the rental fleet and gets reconditioned for sale, it also gets new tires and a new mattress. I'm sure that CW has its version of a 110 point inspection that the sales person pointed to. I find it very difficult to believe that the OP's MH was never put up on a lift for inspection prior to going on the sales lot. NOW, if CW has a published list of what it does as part of the reconditioning process of its former rental units and it did not complete that process on the OP's MH then the OP may have a bit of a case against CW. *edit: spelling error in last sentence*
gotsmart 07/29/15 05:33pm Camping World RV Sales
RE: Ideas from Pinterest

It links to this. No logon needed. http://www.everything-about-rving.com/how-to-remove-decals-and-graphics-on-an-rv.html
gotsmart 07/22/15 10:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Route to Seattle

From Reno, head north on US395. Once you hit Pendelton,OR head west of I84 to I82 north/west connecting with I90. This dumps you right mid point in metro Seattle area. There you have choice of north or south on I5. Not glamerous, but get you there. Even less glamorous is to drive I84 West to I5 in Portland, OR and take I5 all the way to Seattle. No WA passes to drive through.
gotsmart 07/19/15 03:26pm Roads and Routes
RE: Dilemma - to pay or not to pay?

... There! I did not euthanize this over being "polite". You're thinking clearly..... the smog level must have been very low yesterday. :W
gotsmart 07/16/15 02:48pm Tech Issues
RE: No more free wifi at our CG. What the heck?

I suppose this is a bit of a rant. Apologies for being wordy. We paid thousands of $$ to get a membership in KM Resorts in Wa. Home park is Beachwood in Blaine, Wa. and out of a total season's worth of camping, spend over half our time there (so far anyway). It's one of 12 or so CGs they have in Wa. and Or. and is the busiest one by far (300+ sites). Almost impossible to get into during the summer because they have oversold it so much ('nuther story tho.) Wifi was one of the features that they had when we bought in several years ago. They can't be suffering from income at Beachwood so why cut wifi service? They could have upgraded it but no, they just cut it off instead. ... Although Beachwood flies KM's flag, it is owned by Sound Pacific. A separate company. Keep in mind that things like free WiFi and free cable TV aren't generally written into the membership contracts. A private park may have a $40 nightly rate that includes WiFi and cable TV. It's not free. It's just bundled into the nightly rate so that you pay 1 price. You can have many amenities bundled into your membership. If the salesperson agrees to write them into the contract then you're all set. It may feel like you're getting free stuff, but in the end you're just paying up front for it.
gotsmart 07/07/15 12:52am General RVing Issues
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

all temperatures kelvin.
gotsmart 07/05/15 08:44pm Tech Issues
RE: What went wrong???????

I can't kill the Norcold fridge in my former Rent-A-Wreck, and the fridge is broadside to the sun (facing SSW). I offset the the affects of the sun by setting the temperature 1 setting colder. I think my fridge might be bipolar though (arctic/antarctic pun intended). It has 2 stickers inside the door with the same serial number but different model numbers: Model Number: N621 Model Number: N623RT The fridge just plain works. That's all that I care about.
gotsmart 07/05/15 08:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Lights on?

I don't know how new this is, but I am seeing more (mostly FW) trailers with their marker lights turned on, all night. It's an attention-getter. I'm not a fan of it.
gotsmart 06/17/15 10:52pm General RVing Issues
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