Yeah, I checked the Dell site last night and found a couple models that say you can run Win programs. So a "full" version of win8--not "RT" will do the trick? Only issue is now we're talking about $700-$800.
As far as running portable programs, I can ixnay that. I was hoping the USB drive could be seen as a permanent drive.
Otherwise it looks good. I'm thinking of fabbing a bracket for the center dash/console, right in front of the entertainment center.
Stupid question, are these tablets robust enough to play 720X480 avis and ifo's?
Thanks for the help!
I'm considering a "carputer" for navigation, etc. I currently use a notebook PC running my map programs. If I get a tablet (my first) it will be to run my existing Windows programs, NOT new apps. Also, I will almost NEVER have internet access. I want to connect a USB hard drive and run my PC programs from this drive, using data on this drive. Can I do this?
I realize many folks are passionate about new OS's or new hardware or new apps. I am not. I need to run my existing Windows programs or give up on the idea.
According to Dish CS, the Tailgater needs to phone home every 2-3 weeks to update authorization. I was told you should be fine to use your stored shows until it needs to phone home again. No word on how to tell when it's done that.
I love my Tailgater, it's easy, easy, EASY. I can't imagine ever finding the patience or attention span to aim a dish into outer space.
I installed a 70-gallon fresh tank in my tiny TT. This means I never "hook up" to the water source, but rather fill my tank, then draw from the tank.
By doing this I can elevate the chlorine level in the tank, and then use my carbon filter to take most of it out just before drinking. I also have bypass valves that allow me to hyperchlorinate my ceramic filters.
I must admit I have the carbon filter with the added chemicals. I believe my Doulton ceramics also have a little silver in them. I see this as a necessary evil, and certainly better than drinking water straight from abandoned faucets or gas station hoses.
As plenty others will agree, if you're only drawing water from camp ground faucets, that water is certainly fine, or you would have heard about it. Myself, I make sure to slather the faucet with chlorine, just in case the previous humans hung their dirty underwear there to rinse them out.
Go to "RVwaterfilterstore.com" and learn about filtration.
I have a series of ceramic filters with a carbon filter at the drinking water faucet. I also have a UV light on my drinking water, and if I leave it on constantly it warms the water, which scares me a bit.
The ceramic filters do a superb job of sanitizing incoming water, which I need and want. I use multiple filters to insure against single failure. A single carbon filter will be plenty good--your water will taste like it came from a spring.
The UV light is almost powerful enough to heat the first water out of the faucet hot enough to brew tea, but not quite. So I'm not sure what use it serves. I put a switch on it so it only lights when I'm drawing drinking water, which probably defeats the whole point. Oh, and it's expensive.
There is a build date stamped on the label of your ShurFlo. If it is less than 2 years from that date you can get a free replacement. Maybe even less than 3 years.
ShurFlo will give a 5.7 as a replacement if the customer insists, but they are trying to migrate to the 4.0 Revolution. I got the Rev 4 and it is a MUCH better pump than the 5.7. You will not be disappointed.
If you're not eligible for a warrantee pump, then try Amazon. I bought the slower Revolution (3.0?) there as a backup/transfer pump, and it was the ceapest around, even versus PPL, which is good.
Peukert scoffs at overloaded or under-specced 12v systems--to my mind this is the whole point of migrating to 24v. Therefore I would NOT set aside a dedicated 12v battery. Rather I would either install an OVER-spec 24/12 dc/dc box (my pref as long as it was MUCH bigger than I thought I needed), or I would make sure my 12v tap to the 24v batt bank was running thick wires.
Remember, you're now pulling 12v from half the previous Ah reserve, so Peukert is starting to chuckle.
On my current system, I run 4/0 (four-ought) "mains" from the bank to the inverter. Because this is such a beefy path, I tap most of my 12v from busbars at the inverter lugs. If I went to 24v, rather than lay a new set of thick cables to the bats, I would tap my dc/dc converter in at the end of the 4/0 run.
The LEDs I bought from LEDTrailerLights.com say they are rated from 10v to 30v. I'm curious what they would look like at nominal 24v.
To me the water pump seems like the most sensative 12v load, and it can draw upwards of 10a. If I were sticking with a 12v pump--and I wouldn't, I would get a 24v--but if I were, I would make sure that it had a beefy, dedicated copper path to 12v, and not something sagging under load down towards 10v.
Well, given the OP's outlook I would do 24v in a heartbeat. Regarding the Flexmax, I thought that was the whole dingdarn point: 24v from solar.
Don't forget you still need 12v for the water pump (unless you buy a 24v pump), possibly 12v for the fridge, and absolutely 12v for the emergency TT brakes. Yes, P Tuna will have kittens over the unbalanced nature of this.
@Mena: I view you as the poster child for expensive batteries. To me, 24v batteries implies super-premium, and I remain to be convinced these things last any longer. Since the OP's not going to do 24v batts, it's a "mute" point, as they often say.
Oh, and I can't stop chuckling at the thought of that Bozo going around and honking at everyone. The good news is that it probably isn't a new trend developing at Walmarts across the country, so "boondockers" can rest easy.
My thanks also to Mike. I know I'm fairly difficult to moderate, but I was shocked at the vitriol expressed by one member, and some of the ways he chose to express it.
My thanks also to member "westernrvparkowner" not only for his ascerbic wit but his willingness to present his viewpoint in the face of some really shrill attempts to intimidate him.
I myself am VERY enthusiastic about 24v for the reasons mentioned. But for me it will have to wait not only until I get my 24v Victron, but until I get a new TT that will support 8 (eight) GC-2 "jars", for a total of 2 (two) 24V "batteries".
To me, there is a vulnerability in having only 4 GC-2 "jars" to make up only 1 24v "battery". If a single one of your GC-2 jars goes, you have lost your entire 24v battery. Since you're experiencing the equivilent of that right now with the loss of your inverter, I expect you're well-qualified to jusdge if you want to risk that again.
Alternatively, you could go with 24v jars, and get two of them. Downside is that they are a heeping helping of the Costly, and really won't last any longer (sorry Mena).
1. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one out there with water and electrical systems right next to each other and/or intertwined.
2. I had a look at the Prowatt 600 and was surprised how reasonably priced it is. I might have to pick one up as that aux unit 2Oldman demonstrated the need for.
3. My understanding is that the OP's Prowatt is for a branch circuit, or else I still haven't caught up.
BFL, I think it was a new Xantrex inverter the mimicked the functionality of a Victron, although I could be slipping also.
@Oldman--you've got a track record of paying for quality, and you've got a great excuse for hitting for the cheap seats. I say do it!!
Regarding what to do right now, I would Amazon in a cheap, temp Samlex which I would keep as an aux unit once I got my V or P. Then I would fire up some hard cost analysees regarding who does what to whom, and then order in the result. Why give one-time money to Exxon for a trip home, when you can fix this in style on the road? Just sayin: Victron!
I'm sorry, but if I ever found this guy I'd buy him a couple of beers, although I'm pretty sure he doesn't need any more beer. Rock on, dude!!
This is the main reason I don't "boondock" in parking lots, because of the chance I might find people like me there. Honking a horn in a parking lot is allowable conduct, just like sleeping. Why can't we all just get along??
The people I'm angry at are the ones who use a Walmart parking lot for parking their cars while shopping. The nerve of some people!!
1. I would ask the OP if he might tell us more about the burned wires he's been finding. Internal to the P, or external, house wiring? I can imagine there being serious locked rotor amp draw on air conditioner startup, possibly spikey enough not to trip internal protections. Photos?
2. It's unclear to me whether Oldman is still just trying to patch something together for limp-home mode, or whether he's seriously considering embarking on a Rube Golberg approach to RV power inversion, from the esteemed fountain of Rube Goldberg approaches.
3. In this situation Amazon is your friend. If you need a small inverter you can get one overnighted to your campground, while you wait for your Victron to show up in your life. Perhaps you're hesitating because you feel unworthy? Give in!!
I am sorry to hear the P is feeling poorly, but I would call any reports of it's demise premature until I'd thoroughly verified that it wasn't a bad panel throwing out excuses. Also, are you SURE the box is enabled for run without panel?
Like others, I have hardwired bypasses into my whole house system, but now I think maybe a cheap aux inverter might be a good idea. It does sound aggravating powering trickle loads like a TV from a generator.
My P has delievered yeoman service for many years, and a new 2k (NOT 3k) would seem like the drop-in replacement to go for. However, this situation does make for a dandy seque into the 50A Victron, which isn't much more than a P these days. Just sayin!
I recently spoke to a Dish rep about an external HD for my VIP 211k. I was told up to a 2gb usb drive would work, and that you can interchange MULTIPLE drives (accessing only one at a time). They claim that a sat signal is not "required" to access HD-based content, however the unit must periodically update customer authorization, and if roughly 2 weeks pass without doing that the HD access will be denied.
Thank you for all responses!
I can understand why there might be some measure of "interrogation". It is a small cabin and 125A at 240 ought to be plenty, EXCEPT:
--We can reasonably expect multiple RVs parked and hooked up during the holidays.
--Winter nighttime temps can get quite brisk at 6000 ft. We would love to put a pellet stove in for heat "one day", but lacking that it will have to be electric heat.
--There is a general desire for "robustness" of the electrical service. My early impression was that SCE would run beefier wires to the house to serve the larger load, therefore giving us more headroom for typical loads. But we're learning as we go here.