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RE: RV outside ladder

I consider a ladder to be Required Equipment. Too many things happen that involve the roof in one way or another, to be without or rigging something unsafe to try and get up there. I don't mean a spectator platform. I mean (hopefully minor) cleaning and repairs. But no way would I guess about how to secure it. Gotta have detailed plans and appropriate fasteners.
j-d 05/28/17 06:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New shocks- Koni or Bilstein?

Air Lift 1000 Series front air bags. https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/A/L/AL80531_250.jpg width=250 When I installed the 2012 front axle, I wanted to install Super Springs https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/S/S/SSC-31_250.jpg width=250 but they seemed to be back ordered everywhere. The coach has always sat a little low in the front. It takes a leveling board to be level on a level site. Front axle weight is about 4500. Super Springs unavailable, I went with Air Lift hoping to pick up a little more front end ride height. Maybe half an inch, but they have improved the ride. Better over dips in the road, and a little more stable. The suspension seems quieter than before. But... it now has the 2008 and newer Radius Arms with a different bushing design. Summary: There are other products that do more for ride height. Some day I may try Super Springs.
j-d 05/28/17 05:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New shocks- Koni or Bilstein?

The E-Series "Mobile Home Prep" package isn't carpeted. That's up to the coach "up-fitter." Phoenix no doubt does a better job than many, but I believe the masses of RV builders glue the cockpit carpet down. Might make accessing anything under there pretty messy. Ron, I looked a the Forum you linked, but couldn't find the thread about this. Can you link it in detail? Nearly all the shocks used in these Fords, have the customary nut on top, but they also have a hex surface as part of the very top of the rod. It's very easy to get a wrench into the fender well area and onto the top of that shock. Here's the Driver Side of our E450: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3776/13095920953_502067ff64.jpg, on Flickr width=400 Here it is with a wrench barely visible inside the fender well. It's on the top nut of the Shock: https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7427/13095927593_74ac02a2da.jpg, on Flickr width=400 The open end wrench is below the shock mount/spring pad. The Spring has been removed. Notice now, how you have lots of throw for the open end wrench. There's nearly none with the Spring in place. Here are the Older and Newer Shock Types: https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3776/13096105574_03a67d00e1.jpg, on Flickr width=400 New is on top. The Lower and Upper "Insulators" are now one piece each. For example, the Top Bushing, Washer and Nut come assembled. I think the Upper was 17mm and Lower was 19mm on Old, New is different and I forget what those sizes were. If you gotta have them I can work that into my busy schedule... Notice how short the stud is on the Old. Both shock shafts broke off, at about the same point. On passenger side, pieces went flying and I never found my Wrench or the Top Nut... So tie a string to your wrench! What I hope to show you, is how you CAN get a "holding" wrench on the TOP nut, then work the Lower with an open end wrench. And, the working room you get by dropping the Spring out. It also gives you more room to remove/connect the lower shock mount. Driver side is worst case. On passenger, I could probably get a flex ratchet and a socket in there, or a Gear Wrench with a floppy head. Much more room over there.
j-d 05/28/17 02:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: I Should Heed My Own Sage Advice

OWWWW!!! I am SO Sorry! Yeah, "Revision"... In the Coast Guard we use the word "Mishap" to label anything from a jammed knuckle to loss of aircraft and crew. Thanks for the Heads UP. Hopefully it'll help some of us.
j-d 05/28/17 06:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: CG Pics, 8 weeks no reservations, IL-AZ/UT/CO/NM-IL

WOW!!!
j-d 05/27/17 07:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: I Should Heed My Own Sage Advice

You've posted here so frequently I didn't realize you'd been down that long! Hopefully you'll be able to get out for some good enjoyment, for a good long while. I'd post about the batteries in Tech Issues and see if we get some good advice from a battery guru.
j-d 05/27/17 07:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help: leaking hot water heater

The anodes I install with tape, deteriorate just fine, too. The threads cut through the tape and connect with the tank. I want something that doesn't leak, yet I can get the anode out without a Battle Royal. I worry about damaging the tank lining if I have to go after the anode with a breaker bar, impact wrench, etc. I went out to find the wrench size but it was too dark. I'm thinking 1-1/16" but would like to verify it.
j-d 05/27/17 07:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

Here's the pic for that toolhttps://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/S9719KA.jpg width=250 and the dimensional sketch https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/LS30A_DD.jpg width=250 A = 3/8" Drive Size (and I think that's for clarification, surely it's 3/8" internal/female, not as pictured. Then B is not called out in the dimensions, so I can't tell if it's the outside diameter of the socket "shell" or the hex size of the plug, which they show as 13/16". The C = 5-7/8" and I take it the knurled surface lets us start and remove the plug by gripping it with our fingers. Am I right about all this? Is the outside diameter ("B"?) meant to fit so closely that the plug is forced to be in alignment with its threaded hole? I have yet to see a V10 plug. I would have thought they'd be 5/8" hex, but the Snap-On link indicates 13/16". Hmmm I'm at 5" with my 13/16" (Penncraft! Anybody got one of those?) plug socket and a 3" 3/8 extension. At $70 for the Snap-On socket, I'll epoxy my two together and if I can't separate them later, Oh-Well.
j-d 05/27/17 12:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help: leaking hot water heater

If it's a steel plug with a long magnesium (looks like aluminum) anode rod, you have a Suburban water heater. With obstructions around the hole the anode goes into, it's very hard to install one with just the strength of your fingers. I use a socket with an extension bar. I wrap the threads with teflon tape then the head of the anode with electrical tape so it presses hard into the socket. Then I work it till the anode and the extension are lined up. That way, it's easy to know how the anode's lined up inside the tank, with how the extension looks on the outside. With tape on the threads, the anode doesn't have to be all that tight. My guess is that if you can get the anode installed, and the bypass valves in the correct position, you will have "fixed" the appliance. If it wasn't "leaking" last season it probably doesn't have an actual leak. Just the Anode out, which is decent winterizing. Some remove it to drain the heater then put it back right away. Others leave it out for the winter. Speak to other campers, or campground maintenance people. They might be able to help you or loan you a tool to install that element.
j-d 05/27/17 10:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1979 dodge cruise master

When we had our Dodge, maybe Amsoil was selling synthetic, but plain old Dino Oil was the norm. I think the recommendation then was 10W-30. You live in cool country, so I'd suggest that. The standard oil filter was about a half quart. A longer one was more like one quart and I'd use that if you can find a parts person who understands what you're talking about. In Florida, the highway patrol cars were Chrysler products and used HD (High Detergent, doesn't mean Heavy Duty) straight 30 weight oil. Our Dodge was a van and we towed a boat on several hundred mile trips. I found it used less HD30 than it used 10W-30 so I used the HD-30, but I don't think you should because that oil will be too thick for starting up on your cold days up there in PA. I think you have a typo where you wrote "about the 360 like leader size." I don't understand "leader" so if you'll explain or correct that, I may be able to help.
j-d 05/27/17 06:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

@T18: I didn't see a specific "Ford Two Valve Modular Spark Plug Socket" in Snap-On's online catalog. They did show this jewel (at a jewel price of $73! https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/FSXK320A.jpg width=200 Your tip to HAND START the new plugs is totally telling. That seems to be where the real trouble can start. @CloudDriver: I'd like to see the Socket you ordered. That and the Gap Gauge. Thought till now that a good 5/8" six point thin wall plug socket with its foam insert in good shape, will do this job. Any search I've done for "Ford Spark Plug Socket" etc. has led to "F150" and the 9/16" socket for plugs in Three Valve engines. Tip a friend gave me was to use two drive size adapters, as a very short extension. Ratchet and Socket are 3/8" so Ratchet to 3/8==>1/2 then 1/2==>3/8 to Socket. Provides a little over an inch of extension and they don't sell 'em that short. I use those little Harbor Fright 3-gallon "Pancake" compressors. That's plural because two have failed so far. GREAT for bike tires and my HF 18-gauge nailer/stapler. GOOD for blowing parts out and for Car Tires. Only FAIR for RV tires. That 100-PSI rating is marginal for getting a tire up to 80. A new compressor's supposed to be run 30-mics at no load as break-in. If you get a new one, so that, and if nothing else, run it up till it shuts off at 100 and park it. Check gauges periodically. A good, new one, will hold all 100 for weeks. If it doesn't, get them to give you another one. I go back because $40 on sale for about three years of use gives me something I can carry that fits in my storage compartment.
j-d 05/27/17 06:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method. I'd think same would apply to Two Valve Plugs, probably any of them. I might do that on the Corolla, another Aluminum Head, but I can get at them and snatch all four while the motor's hot. As somebody noted, a V10 isn't gonna stay hot for the time it takes to gain access and then remove 10 coils and remove 10 plugs! That said, V10 in an F-Series, maybe four hours will work. I doubt an E-Series will be that quick.
j-d 05/26/17 09:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

We have but 45000 miles. I haven't even looked up the recommended interval, but I don't think it was 100000 in the earlier years. My guess is Ford upped it from experience and for publicity reasons. To me that makes it something I can do at my leisure so to speak. One philosophy is don't give the plugs 100000 to have time and miles to really plant roots. Be assured, I'm approaching this with extreme caution. How extreme? We bought this coach in 2008 and I have YET to take the doghouse off. Figurin' it won't bother me if I don't bother it...
j-d 05/26/17 08:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done. @Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process! NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better. Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though. @CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours? The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun. I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose. Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
j-d 05/26/17 07:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1979 dodge cruise master

Big Block MoPar Engine http://www.mymopar.com/forum_images/Big_Block_Mopar_Firing_Order.gif width=300 Small Block MoPar Engine http://www.mymopar.com/forum_images/Small_Block_Mopar_Firing_Order.gif width=300
j-d 05/25/17 06:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part... True, but no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford. Pickups, Class A chassis, probably a bunch of cars, but not vans, cutaway E-Series chassis, etc. This whole spark plug thing didn't play well at Ford: 1. Two Valve without enough threads, three model years 2. Two Valve with enough but machined wrong, three model years 3. Three Valve with a new spark plug problem, three more model years But only 1. and 2. relate to Ford Class C Chassis (E-Series).
j-d 05/25/17 06:40pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1979 dodge cruise master

Can't help much, but if the engine's a big block 440 the distributor's in the front of the engine. The small block 360 has it in the rear of the engine.
j-d 05/25/17 06:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

...check out the (lack of) easy access to the spark plugs on the E series before finally deciding to do it yourself... I feel you, Brother! The question is, Who Is Trust Worthy? I don't want to get that call "Mr. j-d, we found one of your spark plug holes was stripped." Not admitting they cross threaded it on installation and tore the threads out with an impact gun...
j-d 05/25/17 05:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Steps

Kwikee has a spray white grease that does a great job. 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width=200 I got this Blaster product for bike chains and it works well on steps too. data:image/jpeg;base64,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 width=200 Annually is plenty. I did WD-40 and steps worked for years.
j-d 05/25/17 04:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Spark Plug Problems?

Just visited a shop that looked our 2002 up by VIN: Should not expect problems changing plugs Change with engine HOT Use OEM plugs and replace the Coils with OEM NO anti-seize or lubricant on new plugs Torque to 15-ft-lb Think I'll do it, but not till it isn't so HOT around here. Hot engine on a cool day, OK...
j-d 05/25/17 04:06pm Class C Motorhomes
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