They have a little plastic valve that opens when you push Flush. Rod going into valve is steel. There can be rust or wear where the rod goes in, and sometimes the plastic will crack. Can crack over the winter if valve wasn't winterized.
If you don't have a shutoff valve in the toilet supply line, add one while you're on this project. There are valves available at big box stores that just push onto the PEX tubing. Got ours at Lowe's. Our AquaMagic-IV has a vertical supply line. I was adding a pedestal base to get up to chair height and it worked out that I didn't have to shorten the cut PEX for the valve. Height of Pedestal matched Depth of Valve.
Toilet's more likely to have leakage problems than other fixtures in your RV, and it's the only one that'll leak onto the floor. Being able to shut it off lets you use the rest of the plumbing while you figure the problem out.
I don't have stats to back it up, but I think these fuel pump failures are as much from (1) disuse, not use, and(2) ethanol, which doesn't keep well.
Your report supports both of my points.
Now get your friend to (1) USE it, (2) replace fuel filter once in awhile, reduces workload on the pump, (3) add stabilizer like StaBil to the fuel, genset will thank him and the fuel won't spoil as easily.
This is a 2015 Jayco Jay Flight 26BHS...? I tried to look at the features and it shows "Entertainment Center" as a bookcase-looking item between Living Room and Foot of Queen Bed. You say that swivels? Confusing! Please confirm the Year/Make/Series and if you can post or point us to photos, please do. Is that Mirror made of Glass or a reflective plastic? Could you re-mount the mirror with moldings around it?
I know you're trying hard to describe this thing, but all I get out of it right now is the location is essentially a particle-board bookcase with a thin back that has a mirror stuck to it. If that's what it is, I'd think of installing a stiffer back, like Westend describes, secured to the inside of the sides with brackets or angle aluminum. Put Tee Nuts on the backside of the new back, to secure the TV bracket to without having to pull the mirror and still rely on thin luan for the bracket.
Still, I wonder if I'm on track at all. Pictures would really help. Remember, they have to be on a website someplace, then linked to RV.net using Advanced Post Form then the yellow postcard icon.
OP - Please let us know Year, Make, Model of the Chassis as stated on the manufacturer's tag in the door jamb. First C we had used braided extensions with those clamps and it was fine. That said, I recycled the wheel covers and painted the rims themselves, so access was a little easier.
Others - I wonder if the brackets held by the screw are bending or deformed. If they aren't stiff enough, the fastener may not back out while the clamp loses its grip.
I tried a commercial truck stop and NAPA looking for custom valve solutions and ended up with Borg Dually Valves. They aren't second-rate knock-off stuff. Another brand isn't going to do the job any better. No leaks, wheel covers stay on, I can check tires as fast as I can move my old body to the four corners of the coach.
Some of us have been able to get solutions from truck/tire shops. I know when I called NAPA recently, they sounded like they had it covered, but the hole size for their part was .625" and our RV wheels have .453" Then they offered another option with a steel .453 valve and a solid extender. Their extender didn't fit their own valve, and they didn't offer a rubber stabilzer like Borg and Tire Man provide.
Pricey, yes. Worth it? YES!
Picture the cutaway chassis as delivered to the RV builder. The filler's on a bracket of some kind, pretty much lined up with the inlet to the tank. Does that sound right? Sometimes the builder leaves it about there, and I'd imagine they fill OK. On ours, the filler is moved all the way to the back of the coach, using what looks like conduit as filler and vent piping. I think it was to get away from ignition sources since the fridge and furnace are close to the original filler location. Anyhow, I was replacing the rubber parts of the lines, and decided to "clean up" the way the conduit was hung. The word "Hung" is charitable. Couple ZIP ties off something else and they called it good. When I got the lines straight and level...wouldn't fill... I had to let them go cockeyed again. Fueling nose-down helps, but it fills OK on the level again now. Look up under there and see how the fill and vent lines run. You may be able to make minor changes that make a big difference.
I have a few of the plastic non-vented gas cans. I put a "transmission funnel" in the filler neck and totally remove the cap and spout from the cans. Then pour so the opening is at the top of the liquid. Very little spills...
RE: Torque Stick - That's what I thought. It seems to me that if a stick was capable of limiting tightening torque to "X" then it could never remove a fastener that was tighter than its limit or stuck/rusted/etc. MY SIL has an electric impact and a stick, but uses a chrome socket to remove the wheels. Think I better go get an impact socket for that.
If a chrome socket grenades on impact duty, the flying chrome flakes can hurt us. Kinda like drilling a chassis without wearing safety glasses.
Discount Tire is interesting. They welcome customers in the shop, but issue safety glasses for the visit..
Like any used RV, LEAKS are the highest risk factor. See if you can get it pressure tested and watch the testing being done. If it's Ford or Chevy chassis, you're in good shape either way. I've only seen one Concord up close and as I recall it was attractive and well appointed.
Who's selling it? Some of the best deals quality-wise are private owners either changing lifestyles or up/downsizing. A "Love Coach" is a little hard to describe but you'll know one when you see it. Owner pride, Clean, Little upgrades, Sheltered storage, Complete service records. Some don't cost much more than those Ridden Hard & Put Away Wet.
Glad they got help. I have family within about 30 miles and thought I'd call them if you came up short.
Please let us know how this turns out. It at least seems that coach is used a lot, so surprised it had an issue. That and getting Sprinter parts probably interests several of us.
Good find on the Socket! 1/2" drive around the 7/8" size is easy to find, and larger 3/4" drive sockets are easy too.
Most of us on RV.net know it's a good idea to check lug nuts at home, so we know how they run and if we can work them when we need to. I doubt the general public thinks of it. Anymore, when I take the cars in for tire rotation/repair/purchase, I take the wheel covers off and then check every fastener, every wheel. I've found 'em finger tight and over tight on the same wheel. Got the van back one time and the nuts were so tight I got the 3/4 breaker bar to use with a 1/2-drive socket to get them loose.
In the rain, side of the road, in the dark... No time/place for on-the-job training.
With that wrench set you'll be able to show any Ford lug nut...Who's Boss!
In my case at Discount Tire, they just treated the wheels the same as with standard stems, using their standard spin balance machine. The only added risk I saw is that it's easy to accidentally whack the long stem with one of the tools when mounting and dismounting a tire. One of my stems died an early death from this.
That was my experience as far as Discount's equipment and people being able to spin balance rear duals with the long stems on the inners. Same experience with a long stem getting damaged, except it was my fault. I was doing brake work when I realized it needed tires, so I loaded the wheels in my pickup and took them over there. One got away coming off the tailgate. Naturally it was one with a long stem and naturally it landed on the stem side. Bent it bad, took on a J-shape.
This is where I re-doubled my support of the Borg Dually Valves. I called and asked if I could get just one valve. Yes, what was my invoice number. Didn't have one, but they'd still send a replacement at no cost. I asked if they'd air-express it and invoice me for the shipping. They did exactly that. CA to FL the next day but no invoice. I called and they had a record of what they paid FedEx, so I charged that amount and took the stem over to Discount. They didn't charge for the extra work and what looked like disaster came out as moderate inconvenience and minimal expense.
That fastener size and torque are light duty for a 3/4" socket set. Nice thing about it, as soon as you move the handle end of the breaker bar, you'll be turning the lug nut. A regular chrome socket would be OK, but with impact you can let a shop or service truck keep working on your wheels after they've misplaced their own socket.This one on Amazon was the only one meeting all of: 7/8 + 3/4 + Deep + Impact at $30. And that's for ONE...
Once you get all this, you'll probably never need it. Still I offer the wish: May You Never Use It In Anger...
It was a good visit and a good project. Everything was prepped when I got there, tools out, bushings lubed, wheels up on a couple blocks. And, clean under the coach.
Fun to meet Forum People and see what they're about. And nice rig, Four Winds 5000 on Chevy. FW does a nice job with their floorp lans.
I was glad I didn't have to honor my warranty and refund twice what OP paid for my recommendation to install a rear sway bar!
I think a number of us have had issues there. If a tire blows the tread is likely to tear the plumbing up. Behind the tire offers some assurance of clearance going forward, but the valves are right there to back into if approaching a high spot in reverse. Are the builders doing what's cheaper, or trying to free up storage space?
^^^ Exactly. There's a terminal on the starter relay (remote mounted Ford solenoid) that powers up when the starter's cranking. That power goes to the fuel pump on the selected tank. When the engine starts, the oil pressure switch closes and the pump relay is energized through the ignition switch in RUN position. I've jumped the wire from the solenoid to the battery to run the pump and fill the carburetor. I've also run the vehicle by powering that same wire from the ignition key in Start or Run. Not recommended.
Anyhow, OP told me the engine would quit AS SOON as the key was released from Start into Run. Not that it ran in Run till the carburetor ran dry. So the ignition was quitting... He got it to keep running by hot wiring one of the terminals on the Tank Select Valve, so I'm confused about the cause and the cure on that one.
I've got the diagram on flickR. Used to know how to grab the URL and post here, but they've made flickR so user friendly I can't figure it out anymore. Will work on it...
Meanwhile I spoke with the OP and he's got it running with a connection to the tank select valve. He's backfeeding something, but it's running. Not sure what the long term is. I rigged the one we had, but there wasn't a resistor in line anymore. I don't know if that affected the life of the pumps...
Most A/C thermostats allow enough off-time in their cycling to get rid of actual "Head Pressure." Violate that, by turning Off/On while it's cooling, switching power sources, setting it to Colder right after it's stopped, AND it's unlikely it'll restart with ANY power source. Might even trip the internal temp cutoff in the compressor and not restart till the whole massive part cools down for 15-20-mins or so
This is a case where it'd pay to be sure the 15K A/C has a "hard start" or "start assist" kit on it. Our Coleman 15K has the OEM kit with capacitor and a relay. That's about the best kit. There's a kit called "5-2-1" that claims to approximate a relay but electronically. Many of us use and recommend SUPCO's SPP6e, another electronic start assist. A BTN (not a brand name, but Better Than Nothing) start assist uses a capacitor and a PTCR (Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor) to get the capacitor out of circuit. It can be done with separate Capacitor and PTCR, where PTCR looks like a ceramic spool, or combined like SUPCO SPP6 (without "e"). They won't help in a short cycle high-head condition. That's because the PTCR has to cool down before the next start attempt or it keeps the assist capacitor out of circuit.
The only way to see if and what an A/C has for stert assist is to look. It might show on wiring diagram/parts list but not have been installed. Could be listed as installed but somebody removed it. Or, not listed and somebody added it. And if it IS there, is it Electronic like 5-2-1 and SPP6e, or simply a PTCR device?