Baja Man bought a wind-up underfloor spare tire carrier and made an adapter mount shown in This Thread. If there's no room under, none inside, I'd say have a welder adapt a trailer drawbar to serve as a spare tire carrier. Roadmaster sells a dreadfully expensive one, that lets you swing the tire up and down to/from storage position. You don't need that if somebody else is changing a tire for you.
A "1988 Coach" might be on a 1987 or 1988 Chassis. In any event, if the Chassis is Ford, I believe the wheels had gone to 16" by 1987. Probably earlier. Our 1984, mentioned above, was on a 1983 Ford E350, and it had 16.5-inch "Coined" wheels that were difficult to find 16-inch replacements for. Starting 1984, E-Series had "hub piloted" wheels that interchange with the newest models. So, I don't think wheels will require replacement. But even if they did, used 16-inch wheels are available. Might even be able to get some with new tires mounted, from a 4x4 conversion outfit like Northwest QuadVan in Portland or Quigley in Pennsylvania.
We got $5000 for our 24-ft 1984 Holiday Rambler "Ambassador" (the entry level, Imperial is the top) in 2008. I don't consider the one we sold, a desirable model since it had no "bed down" only the torture sofa.
Back in that "Day" Ford only offered E350 and they had less capacity than newer ones. Weight vs. axle ratings should be considered. Drive it to a Truck Stop's CAT scale.
Price is high, should try to bargain down, BUT those HR's in those years were built like nothing before and very few since.
Can you post a pic of it, or a link to an ad?
If so, they're widely available. Bosch no longer makes them, sold the rights to TYCO, so TYCO might be best quality out there now, in a "name brand" sense. There are lots of KnockOffs available. Like $2 apiece at Amazon when you buy a pack of six, and that includes sockets! If I had a rack of Bosch Relays in my coach I'd keep a spare on board.
LOTS of GOOD in this thread:
YOU - Posted an understandable problem statement. Persisted and followed suggestions.
FORUM - Good people took time to help you. I knew if the likes of Drew took a look at the diagrams, they'd put a finger on it.
WINNEBAGO - Provides detail information like no one else. Most RV builders' diagrams can tell you what a circuit is supposed to do, but not how it's wired or where components are physically placed. They also used these RELAYS to keep voltage up to would it should be, all the way out to the "extremities." Not all do. On ours, I replaced Stop/Tail/Turn lights on both Coach and Toad with LED, to get decent brightness. Did that rather than relays, since I have no idea where the OEM wiring is. Winnebago does, all the way down to the screw that holds a harness clip in place.
Good on all of you!
Our walk around short queen is fore and aft in a rear bedroom with no slide. I actually toted a full queen mattress in there to see if I could make it work. No Joy! Couldn't pass from the hallway past the end of the bed to get to the sides of the bed. Luckily, we aren't too tall for the short bed. Mostly, we wanted to be able to use ordinary queen sheets and have a decent fit. Worked around that with elastic corner "garters."
I think you'll have to look at specific models within brands.
Here's a Forest River C with a Long Queen
And another one with a Short One
Amazes me that in 30 feet of length or 8.5 feet of width, they can't find 6 inches!
The 65 in the front axle might give you a bit of a hard ride. As I read the chart I'd run 55 in the front and 65 in the rear.
Agreed. I got 55 Front and 60 Rear, BUT:
More Front PSI than the load calls for is worse for Stability than it is for Ride. More pressure than called for, reduces the size of the "contact patch" between the tire and the road.
Radial tires want to track straight and E-Series Fords can use help to go straight. The tires need a good contact patch to do it.
I was surprised how heavy ours (signature) turned out to be. It's a VERY entry level-looking coach. No slides, very little trim, thin cabinet doors, etc. I think a lot of the weight is in what I called the "Slab" above. Coaches have a metal framework that serves as the house floor and supports the side walls. Ours is welded STEEL tubing. I think newer ones use a welded Aluminum version. That's gotta help.
Rick, you're SO right. The Wheelbase on subject coach is 214. Some of the newer (Coachmen, I think...) models are over 220. Ours is 218, and that WB allows enough weight on the FRONT axle to keep the rear from being overloaded at GVWR.
Unless and Until, the MFR publishes what the new coach weighs FRONT and REAR, a buyer who wants to see what's actually going on, cannot. Saying "it shipped at 2500 less than GVWR" doesn't address Front/Rear weight distribution.
Four Corner Weights would be even better. I think MFRs would be even more reluctant to show those. The big Class A's aren't exempt either. I think it was some popular diesel pusher that showed a pattern of blowing the left front tire. Turned out to be weight of slides on driver side.
I remain convinced the Stylists, not the Engineers, control the Wheelbase!!! Even a "basement" model Class C, with its "house" up on a metal "slab" has Rear Wheel Wells. Coach has to be styled attractively, and those wheel wells hidden under a shower pan, a bath vanity, the fridge, the sink, someplace the Buyer won't trip over it. So it's "I want the axle here" and that "here" isn't likely to be where the weight distributes right.
For me, the "offending designs" are:
1. Mid-sized C's 27-28 ft with a walkaround queen bedroom
2. Long C's 30-32 ft with rear queen bedroom on a slide
Only answers I can think of
1. Read the label
2. Think weight distribution
3. Don't let sales people tell you the label's all you need to know
4. Drive it to a CAT Scale and get the Front/Rear weights
5. Check and adjust Tire Pressure while you're at the Scales - Give the coach a fair chance to handle right
Just looked at Fleetwood's sales brochure. It mentions UVW (unloaded vehicle weight) and OCCC (Occupant-Cargo Carrying Capacity) if "Wet Weight" included "Occupant"... another 600 pounds, AFTER people, might work...
Hondas and some of their competitors are quiet so they play well inside a metal truck box. A contractor's "jobsite genny" is loud and the truck box resounds with its noise.
Many jobsite gennys are able to deliver their rated wattage as two, balanced, separate 120VAC circuits. An RV genset, and some portables, can deliver full wattage on one circuit. So a 4000 watt RV genset can carry 4000 watts on one connection, like an RV shore tie. 4000 watt jobsite genny can carry two 2000 watt circuits.
That's about what our 31-footer scales out at fully loaded and with a couple passengers! Also why I did a front axle and brake upgrade... DC's news is distressing. Both the spec and the overloaded rear axle. I looked at a walkthrough demo on YouTube. Saw the Label in a cabinet but not close enough to read it. If it was 600-pounds AFTER Occupant weight, that'd be another matter.
A member here, CapriRacer, publishes a site called Barry's Tire Tech and he specifically addresses 16.5" wheels. You'll find it on his home page, just scroll down and click it.
What's already said above is true and Barry's site bears it out. You've done the hard part finding the wheels. Just pick a size and go. Just be sure you have verified the Dual Wheel Offset of your replacement wheels.
As an added bonus, the 215/85R16 and the 225/75R16 have the same load ratings. The 225 is more of a "standard Class C tire" but some prefer the 215 for a little more height and a little more space between sidewalls. When mounted on wheels with the same offset, that is.
We had a 24-ft C on 158" WB. It drove very well, but it was the pre-1992 chassis. Front Axle was Twin I Beam but it had kingpins not ball joints. Along with a better front sway bar arrangement than 1992-2007 E-Series.
I don't hear the handling complaints about the 24-footers that I do from owners of longer coaches. Biggest mistake Ford owners do, is air up the front tires to the pressure on the sidewall, or the door jamb decals.
As others've said, be sure the tires haven't aged out of usefulness. If they're Load Range "D" with a max pressure of 65 PSI, I'll guess those tires are OLD. Just about all the new ones are "E" and 80 PSI. 65 would be max load on the front axle, 4600 lbs, and I'd guess you have 1000 less than that on that 24' coach. I'll look up the Michelin RV tire pressure chart and link it. You'll see what I mean. The tires can be a different brand, so long as the specs match. Be sure to use "Single" info for the front and "Dual" for the rear.
Tank isn't hollow. Just has a ring to it when you bang on it. Be ready to catch some gasoline.
Would have thought the plug would be easy to turn since it must have some kind of sealant to keep from leaking. That sealant would also keep it from rusting in place.
With your application and low amount of tongue weight it's doubtful to be an issue. The primary reason for reinforcement/strengthening is the lever affect from the tongue weight.
Agreed. We have a 3500 hitch, I don't remember or care the tongue weight because a towed vehicle, four down, has essentially Zero tongue weight. The vehicle we tow, weighs right at 3500. Like rice_classic, I don't think you have an issue.
Gotta say, though, on our coach, right at the hitch but on the coach body, sits a decal warning that the coach's braking system is designed for the weight of the loaded Vehicle (GVWR), NOT to work at the Combined weight of coach and towed whatever (GCWR). You NEED a braking system on whatever you're going to tow beyond a motorcycle trailer, small boat, etc.
I have another soapbox to jump onto: Weight DISTRIBUTION! If a Class C doesn't have a large enough portion of its loaded weight ON the Front Axle, it won't handle right. Will wander all over the road and particularly if it's a Ford. Ford says at least 32% of loaded weight should be on the front axle. I believe that might be OK for box trucks but not so much for RV's. Box trucks almost never have the rear overhang Class C's do, for one thing. Some of the guys here say at least 75% of the front axle's rated capacity. I have this to say:
1. Wheelbase seems to be determined by floor plan, not drive-ability. The worst offenders seem to be in the "upper 20's" length wise. I believe it takes a 31- or 32-footer to drive properly with a full queen walkaround bedroom. When the front office wants that feature on a 26-27-28-footer, there isn't enough coach FORWARD of the axle to balance the long bedroom (ours is 11-feet too, like Mitch's) behind the axle. Not only that, but the REAR axle may be Over Loaded, at the same time the Front is Under Loaded. Now it not only won't track on the road, it'll blow rear tires. Many times there's not enough storage area forward to be able to shift enough weight to get the axle loadings right.
2. What to do? WEIGH IT!!! I know the builders are now posting as-built weights. You can use that to see if you have enough TOTAL weight capacity for people and stuff. BUT!!! if that label doesn't show Front and Rear Axle weights, individually, you can't be sure the coach has a proper weight distribution. If it's a new coach, include a Travel Center (political correct speak for Truck Stop) in your test drive. Spend $10 to weigh it on their CAT Scale. Then go to the air station and set tire pressure so the Front is inflated according to Scale Weight and the Rears are likewise. Or at least equal. You may find it drives better. But if it's tail-heavy, Disqualify It!
3. Hint: Look at a Class C from the side. Not counting the part over the cab, does the House part look like it's balanced on the rear axle? If it does, this coach is likely going to be Front Light, Tail Heavy. If it looks like more House is in front of the Axle, and less behind it, coach might be OK.
4. Still, Weigh it!