This is what the "Graduated" Levels look like. They have a slightly different curve and markings for the Side-to-Side and Front-to-Rear levels that make up the set.
A Class C is very twisty. Takes so very little to wrack the cab out of line with the house that I do NOT recommend putting the levels, especially the Side-to-Side one, in the CAB. I just use a bullseye level on the vinyl floor but if I went to do Hoppy Levels I would put the S-t-S level on the wooden back of the dinette bench by the entry door. The F-t-R would go on he passenger side interior wall right behind the cab. That way the levels would be in the part of the coach we actually occupy on the site.
The Prime Customer (well it's really Mrs. of course) is the Fridge. Find out if Fridge, Floor, Counter Tops, are all Level when the Chassis is. If they are, then it gets easy to check level because you have lots of choices.
Driveshaft is actually tubing, and fairly thin wall at that. So anything hard that jars it will create a Ping not a Clank. We bought a Frontier with manual transmission to avoid a Disconnect/Lube Pump scenario. Not even 4x4 Frontiers with automatic are towable since there's no Neutral in the Transfer Case.
Cleanup/Tuneup should solve it. A lot of the problems also seem to be the Cable. Either sticky or installed with a kink or tight bend.
I've always thought that if I wanted a Drive Shaft Disconnect, I would first buy a junkyard driveshaft. Have IT tuned up by a driveshaft shop and the disconnect installed in it. Keep my original for resale or a rainy day.
x2 on stock. If the chassis was stretched to a longer wheelbase, then it would've been cut someplace and extended with a piece of straight pipe, but that would be it. My guess is that a Class C with "21" in the Model Number would be on a stock wheelbase so nothing modded. FlowMaster (flowmastermufflers.com on WEB) used to sell "CAT Back" systems. Unbolt at the outlet of your catalytic converter and install new from there back using stock hangers. I put one on a much older E350 we had and it was nice. A little loud but ran cooler and more power. Might have bought 0.5-MPG but that would have been max. I think Gibson has CAT-Backs, maybe through Summit Racing. Not sure about this but the Bank$ $tinger system is a CAT-Back also.
I'd hope Fleetwood could provide Model Number and more if you called them with nothing more than your Ford VIN or a number in the driver door frame from Fleetwood. Is there a paper label inside one of your interior cabinet doors? Should be one and Model should be on it.
Motor look like this 1/3-HP on Amazon?
It's Double-Ended, Two-Speed, price is right.
Here's its Link
If all you need is the Windings part, I can send them to you. Our motor developed bearing problems and I couldn't keep them from coming back. Ordered a new motor, old is in my garage.
They're a little hard to order because the FASCO model (D1092 in this case) is different than what appeared on the original motor.
You have a 30' Sunova, correct?
Which size wheels, 19.5" rims?
And how OLD are the Tires?
I'm amazed the two tires that went flat didn't fly apart or cause blowouts on the inners.
Are your tire valves METAL (you won't see rubber except the edge of a gasket)?
If they're METAL, you can leave the extensions off and trust a TRUCK tire shop to gauge and air up your tires. The best Gauge and Air Chuck for this are "dual foot" where one foot (part that connects to the tire valve) is straight ahead (for Front Tires and Rear Inner Tires) and the other is backward-facing (for Rear Outer Tires). Or, you can install AIRLESS extensions. An Airless Extension has a depressor built into it that pushes the core of the actual tire valve ONLY when you push on the end of the extension with Gauge or Chuck. I think you had air-carrying extensions. With those, if the connection to the tire valve, or the extension itself, develops a leak, the tire goes flat. You could bore a hole in the side of an Airless Extension and there would be no leak till you put a gauge onto it.
Or are the valves RUBBER? You can still take the Tire Shop approach. I DO NOT recommend any form of Extension on Rubber Valves! That's how our Class C was when we got it. Rubber Valves, Flexible Inner and Solid Outer Extensions both air-bearing. I was constantly adding air. By that I mean before every monthly outing. The front had little straight extensions and the rubber valves would leak when I pushed my gauge onto them. Completely Unsatisfactory.
How old are the tires? The last four digits of the DOT Code on one sidewall are the Week and Year they were made. If they were several years old then stood "for years" even without being used, you may not make the 4000 miles without a blowout.
BORG valves are about $120 a set, Tire-Man sets are a little more. The tires have to be partially dismounted to install either. 16" tires suitable for RV are roughly $150-$250 each. For 19.5" tires I can only guess, maybe $100+ more. One blowout can cause more damage to the RV than the cost of a set of tires.
Be careful here...
If your chassis is new enough to have "Tow/Haul" on the shifter and not OD Off or "Overdrive" you are well beyond the problem years. Bryan as usual is right on the money. 1997-99 "Modular" or "Triton" engines ALL had too few sparkplug threads. Ford issued new heads called "Performance Improved" in 2000. In V10, that upped the HP rating from 275 to 305 AND added threads. But, again as Bryan points out, SOME PI heads were mis-machined. The alignment from threads to seat was a pinch off. If the engine was V6, all three plug holes would be wrong, all four for V8, all five for V10. Various plants made the heads and not all were affected. Bryan says it was corrected in 2003. My information was 2004, BUT there's always the issue of the Chassis often being a model year older than the year assigned by the coach builder. A Ford dealer may be able to tell you, by VIN, which heads your specific engine has.
An acquaintance asked for the VIN when I was shopping for our coach with 2002 chassis (signature) and came back saying heads were OK. I think he ran the question past an engine remanufacturer.
200-SEVEN?!?!? Don't Worry Be Happy.
All of the above does NOT pertain to Three-Valve Triton/Modular engines as used in F-Series. The E-Series has always been Two-Valve, so don't get derailed by talk about 3 valves, 362 HP and sparkplugs breaking. Different issues. Amazing though that Ford managed to 1. Create a sparkplug problem with too few threads. 2. Flub the correction with machining errors. and then 3. Create a whole NEW set of problems with Three-Valve.
What chassis is this on?
And, have you actually weighed it?
Or, are you working off of specifications?
Over the years, the Ford E350 (just as an example) has gone from a GVWR of about 11000 to the current model at 12500. You can see why. Still, we had a 1984 24-ft Holiday Rambler (built solidly which means heavy) on a 1983 E350. Weighed all four corners and they added up to just a hair below GVWR once we loaded our travel stuff.
FYI, I think you're right. The net capacity of many RV's is really thin, so many probably ARE running above max. And most likely loaded lopsided too. Which is why Michelin has an "RV" version of their tire load/pressure chart. It's set up with Corner Weights. The "Light Truck" version of the chart is set up with Axle weights. At least get Axle Weights if you don't already have them. $10 to use the CAT scale at any Travel Center (politically correct term for Truck Stop).
Our first anode replace job looked like downtheroad's picture above. There was white deposit keeping the old anode from coming out. I think that white ring just inside from the threads will chip away. Once it does, the rest of the rod should wiggle out. Then make or buy a tank flush wand. Just a small-sized tube that attached to a hose so the water it jets into your tank can get behind the debris and wash it toward the anode hole. This is the common one, CAMCO from Amazon
The "Ply Rating" is that, a rating not a construction detail. Back in the days of fabric bias-ply tires, "Eight Ply" was a heavier duty tire for 3/4 and one-to trucks. Possibly to get away from questions like yours, they've adopted Load Range to replace Ply Rating. The Load Range can be achieved various ways.
65PSI confirms you have Load Range "D" tires now, so it's a 3500 (or 350) "One-Ton" (another term hard to relate to actual carrying capability) chassis. The 450/4500 is "Ton and a Half" and requires Load Range "E."
You'll have to go out of your way to find tires in your size that are not "E" since there's no penalty for using them in place of "D" meaning why stock them. Just be careful they are in fact Light Truck (LT) series since that size is also available in Passenger (P) series. So you're shopping for LT225/75R16E.
Because a "D" tire will handle the capacity of your chassis, replacing with "E" will give you a tougher tire. That's why I don't think you need to go with commercial-duty tires like many of us with 29-32-foot Class C's have done.
If you have what I'll call "Custom" Velvac mirrors mounted on one long arm, a glass shop may be able to fix it. If not, should be able to give you a lead.
We have the basic "rental truck" mirrors as pictured. You can get a complete head that'll mount pretty much anywhere.
Even the chain store auto supplies that are open every day should have a replacement glass for something, and some double-sided tape to attach to what's left of your mirror.
Improvise till you get where you're going then work on details.
Yes, "S" means 112MPH. 110 means 2337# and 107 means 2149#. That means your Front Tires can carry up to 2337, and each rear dual tire can carry 2149. Tires are rated to carry a little less in the dual application than the single.
What Max Air Pressure does the Sidewall show? My guess would be 65PSI meaning Load Range "D" which is the old "8 Ply Rating". Most of the tires in your size sold now are at Load Range "E" or 10 Ply. You may hear them called E-Ten and that has nothing to do with Ethanol in your fuel tank. Go ahead and get E-Ten. You won't increase the capacity of your chassis but you'll have tougher tires. Weigh your coach and see what your axle weights are. I think you'll find you're in the D-Eight range and any quality Load Range E (E-Ten) tire will please you. I just this week installed new Bridgestone Duravis 250 tires which are a commercial duty tire. I did it because our axle loads are very close to max for this tire size even in E-Ten. The Michelin XPS Rib is another tire in that category. If I had a lighter coach, which yours should weigh out to be, I would look hard at Firestone TransForce. The Michelin LTX M/S2 would be a step up. Excellent comments on both of these. Michelin LTX used to crack but the impression is that it's been corrected on M/S2.
Karin, WELCOME! You'll be a seasoned RVer before long!
That RV Repair/Maint book is by author Bob Livingston and it's very good. Will help you a lot. What it won't help much with is the specific locations of things like valves, and info like capacities of tanks. But Eric's comment is right - Most RV "Owner Manuals" are very generic and don't tell you those things either. For example, the Manual for our coach in signature says "Fresh Water Tank is under a Sofa or Cabinet." Nope, it's under the Coach Body. That's a pretty radical difference.
I carry a mounted spare tire/wheel. Jack, Stand, Blocks, Wrenches, etc. If there's somebody that can help, fine. If they had a tire, maybe that would be fine. But I want to be able to fill in any blanks, get something installed, and move on.
That's just Little OLD Me. My vote and a dollar might get you coffee. So instead, I offer this: EVERY RENTAL I've seen HAS A SPARE.
That alone should tell us something.
I don't disagree. I think the spare I had was some how a new one and I didn't brush it. Nor the two new ones in front.
How "standard" are these things? Something I've never bought. At least on the chain store auto parts, "Bleeder Screw" is not among "Replacement Parts."
Previous owners had replaced the rear brake calipers on the E450 we bought in late 2008. I found one bleeder screw badly stuck, had to bang on the six-point 3/8" box wrench but did get it loose. Other bleeder rounded off even using a new six-point socket. Was able to remove using Channel Lock pliers but couldn't get to the bleeder with those before I took the caliper off. So:
Tip Number One: Put a little NeverSeez on the Bleeder Threads! I power wire brushed the rear bleeders (had a spare from an old caliper) and applied the compound. Today I took the bleeders out of the new calipers and applied compound. I can only hope they can be loosened in the future.
Tip Number Two: Air-Through Tire Valve Caps. If you got a set of custom valves from Chuck (Tire-Man) recently they came with these caps. They keep dirt out, protect and don't depress the valve stem, and make checking/airing as easy as pushing your gauge or air chuck on. They're known as V2B, Gator, and Crocodile but I found them at NAPA yesterday as NAPA 90-319 or NTH 90319 (for Napa Tire Hardware). Four for about $6 on one of their spin-around racks. I've seen them for less but there's either shipping or you have to buy dozens. They're simply great.
It takes new Caliper Brackets and they mount on the Rear Edge of each Steering Knuckle. I believe the Axles are the same as 2007 and earlier, with the addition of a boss for a Sway Bar with End Links. They even left the holes in the axles that the bushing pressed into for the 1992-2007 bars. What they did with Knuckles/Spindles isn't clear to me. I've learned that the "new" axles are used from E150 through E450, big brakes and all. So the Springs make up the difference in front GAWR, and then there's the Dual Wheel Hubs plus however many other hubs it takes to accommodate the various single wheels. But I don't know what Ford was doing before the "consolidation." Say you put a "new" axle in a 1994 E150. That might result in bigger, stronger Ball Joints than the original axle had. But it'd still fit. Would just have to come from a donor that has the same wheel type.
Quigley told me that I could just swap from the Spindles/Knuckles out. But that wouldn't install the updated and zero-mileage ball joints, axle bushings, along with the redesigned radius arm and its new bushings.
Go Big or Go Home!