We are BLESSED HERE to have a couple techs in Chris and Doug who ARE Techs! They think in terms of What's the Problem - What's the CAUSE - Now, How do I fix it.
I'm afraid many "techs" are actually "labor." Parts Installers, Parts Changers.
In cases like Fridge Ventilation, the RV Owner/DIY can do better than a "labor" tech. When I spent $1000+ for a replacement fridge, I pored over the documentation. I read about the baffling and venting. I made sure it was right before I pushed the new box in place.
Problem with fridge venting is that correcting it is going to require pulling the box to access the job site. Not everybody is willing to face that.
I can relate to somebody working on a fridge and concentrating on the controls, the burner, etc. and disregarding the details of the venting. But INSTALLING or REPLACING it??? SHAME!!!
Then wire from brake pedal and ground to a polarized female socket. Select an LED lamp and put adhesive Velcro on it and the back (non reflective) side of the mirror. Enough wire and polarized male plug to reach the mirror. Done.
OP - Is your goal to get the best traction or to be legal under Caltrans Rules? gOOgle search "california chain laws" produces a lot of information, including this pdf page.
It seems you can chain either axle for 4WD wheel drive vehicle only, but the trailer towing graphic shows rear axle.
EDIT: More discussion of requirements on this Caltrans page.
Can a properly aligned RV wear tires unevenly, QUICKLY, in severe cross winds = YES!
What to do now...?
You can check Toe yourself by driving forward on a flat, nearly level surface like a concrete driveway. Drive straight forward and stop gently with the brakes. Stick a Hat Pin straight into the edge of the tread of each tire. Perpendicular to the tread, as if you'd hit a roofing nail sitting on its head. One each side, trailing edge of tire, as high as you can and still sight straight across. The Radius Arms will keep you from going as high as the center of the spindle. You can get maybe 11" off the ground. Have your Helper hold the hook of your Tape Measure on the far pin while you measure the spread to the near pin. Then drive forward till the pins are about the same height off the ground and stop again. Measure again. Spread should be equal to (Zero Toe) or a little less than (Toe In) by 1/8" to maybe 1/4".
Front end will Toe OUT if the linkage is worn. Park straight ahead, steering wheel unlocked. Go under with a large pair of Channel Lock "Water Pump" pliers and squeeze the four steering linkage joints. Squeeze with one jaw next to the Grease Fitting and the other on or by the Stud and Nut (where the Cotter Pin is). There should be Little to NO compression of the joint.
Or take it to that alignment shop and ask them to check the front end for wear.
If you rotate, you can do what I did with fronts feathered on one edge. Rotate to rear. I didn't want wear to show so I went to the Inners. A couple heavy duty truck tire techs gave me a lot of tire tips. One was to put the wear on dual tires "between" the tires. In my case that meant flipping the tires on their rims. There's nothing wrong with reversing the rotational direction of modern radial tires. The very first ones developed a "set" and would come "unscrewed" if run backwards. No longer true.
Brake Buddy, like others, come with Gee-Whiz Electronics to confirm that everything is hunky-dory.
What Butch wants is something simple and independent to keep all that electronics honest. Brake goes down, Light goes on.
For a vehicle with a roof rack, like Crosstrek, I'd consider connecting to the high-mounted "third" brake light and putting an Amber LED Turn Signal light on the rack facing forward.
Butch, you must have a different rear view "look" than we do. I can barely see the roof of our Nissan Frontier pickup from the inside rear view mirror of the coach. And can't see the sides at all except in a sharp turn. So for us, something on he front side of the inside mirror of the toad wouldn't work. Would work with a rearview camera on the coach but we don't have one.
Hate to run wire to a light in the coach, but that might be my answer.
If I could see a light in or on the toad, that's what I'd do. To me, the idea is to keep the fail-safe warning as simple as possible.
I suggested Amber because it's not legal to show a red light forward, and Signal because I don't think a running or marker light would be visible under all conditions. LED because it'd work on small gauge wire and not cause any imbalance in the toad's lighting system.
Fully Extend or Fully Retract?
We've had what I'll call "the ordinary" A&E/Dometic and the Carefree of Colorado awnings. With both awnings, we've left one end "high" and the other end "low" but both ends were higher than the retracted/storage positions.
Then to stow the awning, I drop both arms all the way to the retracted/folding/storage/travel position. Advantage to that is that I can unlock the roller without using the rod. Then I hold the unlocked roller and walk to the center of the roller where I have the strap and rod ready to let it roll on up.
We don't RV in CA with our Class C so we haven't used those sealed nozzles. But I know we DO have a vent line from tank all the way back to the filler plate. Do you know you don't have one? Ours wasn't run right, compared with how the filler pipe ran, and was hard to fill. I rearranged the two and improved the situation. But it's not a Winnebago and it's not in CA...
There are no real grades in FL. It downshifts at every short overpass. Very annoying.
EXACTLY!!! 4R100 runs in Fourth with Torque Converter Locked. Even though the V10 has the torque to top a slight grade, when in Cruise it drops all the way to Third/Locked. That's full-on passing gear, except no where near full throttle. Then it holds that gear till after the grade is topped.
Very Annoying is Very Accurate.
The OP may well have the 4R100 transmission like we do. Many of those who offer pat solutions have not experienced the totally absurd behavior of the V10/4R100 powertrain. I've driven the newer (5R110/TorqShift) like I think TPI has and found its behavior a little better.
My belief is that the Cruise Control is way too "strict" with no adjustment possible. Five-Star's website suggests that it can ease the problem. I have not called them or tried their system. The RV can be driven off cruise to reduce and nearly eliminate the nonsensiscal downshifts, so I suspect adjustments to the PCM could also reduce them.
Did it have a mechanical thermostat that you replaced with an electronic one, like that Hunter from WallyWorld that so many of us have installed? If so, I don't think it'll work if its AA batteries are dead. But it's still switching on 12VDC, so possibly Fuse as Donn mentioned, or low Coach(House) battery.
EDIT: I don't think your battery has to be stone/cold/dead for an appliance with a logic board to not work. They have a voltage threshold built in and it may be higher than what we'd call "dead."
An old, badly worn, shifter, coupled with engine mounts in old/worn condition, might have bounced into gear. But much more likely the RVer shut it off in gear after nudging up to the tow bar. Good reason to tow FWD on a dolly. We tow four down and try to double check the toad setup before moving. We left a little Tercel in first once and felt it as soon as we moved our old gas coach. Towing with a DP, maybe a big gas Class A, wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
At the age of your coach, it's very possible that your furnace is OK but Mud Daubbers have nested inside it. That will affect the efficiency of the blower mechanism. Your furnace may have an exterior plate about the size of your hand with two pipes through it. If so, you'd need to crawl around inside the coach and pull panels to get the furnace out. If it has a large plate (a little bigger than a license plate) on the outside, with pipes through it, then you have at least some access from outside.
In any event, it's possible your Sail Switch is sticking. Will allow the gas valve to open one time, not the next time.
NO Rubber Valve Stems!!! Be sure to get metal valves. If your chassis is Ford, there are specialty 15-degree valves that are great for Front and Spare. But you don't need them. What your DO need for Front and Spare are Valves slightly longer than most of the ones the tire shops stock. That or their normal ones plus an "Air Through" Cap/Extender. For the rears, I'd suggest full-on custom valves. If the job can wait till tomorrow I can furnish you a phone number where they'll overnight a set to you.
Discount called the warehouse and got the seven tires with freshest date codes delivered for our RV. Like yours, very low miles, just age. Difference from the Mic's you describe was, absolutely NO signs of age cracks on the four R250's we had from 2007. Sidewalls on the V-Steel's from 2004 looked good too, but the tread area was failing.
Both the new and the old tires had LOTS of balance weight on them. Discount pointed out the amount of weight on the old tires and speculated it might be needed for the wheels, FORD OEM Steel. I don't know about that, but I was skeptical. Figured we were in for a lot of re-balancing. NO! They are dead steady.
DON'T let them inflate your Front Tires to Sidewall Pressure!!! You simply do not need 80 PSI in front! Many Class C's don't have all that much weight on the front axle, and it only takes 65 to handle Ford's max front axle capacity (GAWR-F). They sent ours out with 80 all around and the coach was nearly uncontrollable on the downgrade of Dames Pt Bridge. Our weight/pressures are
4560 Front, 60 PSI which is rated for 4670
9240 Rear, 75 PSI which is rated for 9320
80 PSI Rear is fine, slightly rougher ride, but do NOT inflate Front beyond what a CAT Scale weight translates to in a Load/Pressure chart like Michelin's. The brand doesn't matter as long as the tire size and load range all match. Just notice that Mic's chart is by "corner" so divide Axle Weight by Two, and remember that there are different ratings for Single and Dual applications.
Sent you a PM.
Commercial Grade, Heavy Duty, Highway (Rib) Tread, Quiet. I just replaced our 7-year-old R250's with new ones. New and old looked about the same, but I had some Bridgestone V-Steel tires that were showing cracks in the treads (not sidewalls) at 10-years-old. I wasn't willing to go beyond 7 years in FL, even though the R250's looked great. From what I understand, Bridgestone no longer offers a traction/all-season/M&S version of R250. They're a little less robust, like Michelin's LTX.
Got ours from Discount Tire on Beach Blvd in Jacksonville.
Yes, if it's a V10 from 1997 and up, transmission should be 4R100. The E4OD designation went away when 460 was replaced with V10. As mentioned above, these transmissions were based on the three-speed C6. With overdrive added and control shifted from hydraulic to electronic with solenoids.
I'm guessing in this part - that the engine controls, ECM, ECU, PCM, whatever the name for the computer/brain and related sensors may govern the readings available from a given transmission, by model year.