hydroboost is for the power on the power brakes.
Brake fluid an entirely different system. No interconnect. You can change brake fluid without worrying about the hydroboost
True about the fluid changes, but if it's a HYDROboost, it's a hydraulic booster driven by the Power Steering Pump. Not a vacuum booster driven by manifold vacuum. I've heard an OP claim that PS fluid escaped the hydroboost and got into the brake fluid, but it's hard for me to picture how that could happen. Back of Brake Master Cylinder bolts to Front of Hydroboost and they're both built to retain their respective fluids.
From Joe's previous posts, this Thor Pinnacle is a Class A, on Chevrolet P30 "narrow" motorhome chassis with disc front, dual rear drum brakes.
Might be hard to repeatedly "get pedal" with the engine off since the hydroboost's reserve pressure will go away. Just PRESS the brake pedal if you bleed brakes with engine running. Hydroboost produces WAY more pressure than Vacuum Boost.
We had an OP with problems bleeding brakes on a Ford based Class C that had Hydroboost. It was actually an ABS problem but he decided to replace the Master Cylinder while the system was open. He reported that he had better pedal with the new cylinder than he'd been getting before he started all the brake work.
Again, just for me, with suspicious behavior and a 20+YOA master cylinder, I'd change it, bleed everything, adjust the rears, see what it does. Master Cylinders seem to price around $50.
Quick check on 1992 P30 with 7.4/454 engine shows a reman hydroboost $175, looks like this? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//250/thumb/18690098_a1c_529384_pri_thmb.jpg width=300
Just for me, even if it is not getting full boost, there's a master cylinder problem (or a brake/brake line leak) IF the Brake Warning Light is coming on.
Member from Sunny Florida suggested to leave the MAIN ON, every branch circuit OFF and then power up one branch at a time so map out which outlets are powered by each breaker....
By "branch circuit" do you mean turn off the switches for a/c, GFI, hot water, micro? Just leave main on, then use the tester/I will try a night lite.
Exactly! You got it! The idea is to test one circuit at a time and see which outlets each one feeds. You may find one branch/breaker/circuit is all outlets/receptacles on one end or one side of your Cougar. That way, you can be sure to plug high-wattage stuff into separate CIRCUITS, not just separate Outlets in the same Circuit.
I'd sure love to see a picture of your breaker box and it's labeling as to what they say feeds what.
Yes, the breaker can get "tired" and yes they are easy to replace.
You'll usually see four lights on "battery" pretty much regardless of battery condition IF the Converter/Charger is running and working properly. Turn the breaker Rec/Con OFF and then push your Test button. You'll probably see three lights. That's OK if you come back after a period of Converter OFF time and still have three lights.
Fourth light basically says the battery is being charged.
I suggest you get that plug-in outlet tester. Of course you could use something like a night light... Leave MAIN ON, every branch circuit OFF, and then power up one branch at a time while you map out which outlets are powered by each breaker. THEN you'll know how to spread the load between breakers.
We had a thread awhile ago where the OP had a about a 10-YOA CRV set up as toad that he was thinking of taking all the gear OFF of to sell. Several here suggested he list it as towing-ready. Such vehicles are out there. Some of the forums have "for sale" and "wanted" sections. Could be very worthwhile to surf around.
Using the "Prime" function for gasoline-fueled ONAN genny's (as Phil noted) is a very good idea, and something many of us didn't know was available till recently. I prime ours till I hear the pump stop its tapping sound. Then I attempt a start. It sometimes actually does start. If not, I repeat the priming and listening, the do a second attempt. It always starts then.
OP - Fully closing the choke is a good idea and I've done it in the past. I do NOT think the Microlite will cause this possible hazard, but... Be sure it's the Choke and not the Throttle. The older ONAN's would go right to 160-volts-plus if you tweaked the throttle. The one that did that with me had no electronics, just a mechanical governor. I think Microlite won't allow that much voltage. I'm just not sure and I just don't feel lucky.
We've always wanted a choice between my wife's little Toyota and my mini-pickup, so Brake Buddy works well since it's portable between vehicles.
I don't mind installing and setting it up (setup is pushing a couple buttons and waiting for it to do an automated routine) at departure, and I don't mind removing it at destination. I DO mind finding the toad needs to be quickly dropped and re-connected mid-trip. For that reason I might consider something else in the future, but I have no complaints about the functioning of Brake Buddy.
If it's chilly out there (40* here in FL as I write this but it'll warm up soon enough), are you using portable electric space heater(s)? And is your Cougar a 30-amp or a 50-amp unit? IF:
1. It's 30-amp, you'll be lucky if you can run two of the common "1500-watt" portable heaters. If it's 50-amp, you probably can as long as
2. You have two high-wattage appliances plugged into the SAME branch circuit, it'll still trip the breaker even if your coach is 50-amp.
This is because each branch circuit is almost certainly 15-amp and your Converter is a relatively high-wattage (compared to a lamp, a radio, etc.) device.
Has something changed:
Different things plugged in?
Low or failing House Battery? I ask that because it's a Converter/CHARGER. If the Hose Battery is low or failing. The Charger component of Converter/Charger is going to be knocking itself out trying to keep it up. That means it wants more Watts.
What's your fiver plugged into? If "campground voltage" gets low (usually more RV's wanting to do more things like Heat or Cool) then your appliances want a more Amps to make up for lower Volts. This is because appliances are rated in Watts and Watts = Volts x Amps.
Calculate a 1500-watt heater and you get 12.5 Amps if voltage is 120. Converter/Charger can easily demand 5 Amps, probably 10 if the Battery is dead.
Do this: Get a little Outlet Tester
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/70x70/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17669.jpg width=150. Turn the breaker that's been tripping OFF and go around with the Tester. If you have a few of your ceiling lights (which are 12-Volts DC from your House Battery) on, you may notice they dim a little when you do that. Then go around the Outlets ("Receptacles") and see which ones Do NOT light the Tester. That'll ID those that better have only ONE high-wattage appliance. And hopefully there are still a few outlets working. You can use one of those for one more high-wattage appliance. If your coach is 30A, that's all it'll support without tripping the "Main" breaker on your panel, or the one at your power source.
Tester I pictured has a button. Some do, some don't. Those that DO, can check Ground Fault Circuit Fault (GFCI) circuits but creating a condition the GFCI should recognize and shut the circuit off. You should have at least one GFCI outlet as pictured here: http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/70x70/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_15863.jpg width=150 The buttons are the GFCI Test and Reset features. Yours'd probably be in Kitchen or Bath. They usually are wired to protect outlets "downstream" of them such as an outside receptacle. I mention this because you may one day need to think GFCI...
We had a small Class C (cabover bed) and wanted a C with "bed down." Certainly as a couple we didn't need a cabover bed along with the rear queen walkaround, the dinette bed and the jacknife sofa bed. BUT we wanted more storage than we'd had before and found that the (so-called) B+ is lower and narrower than the "full" Class C. Lower and narrower would have been fine but to get some storage we went to the "full" C with raised house floor which makes the coach taller, and "wide body" design which makes the coach 101" wide vs. the 96" that Class C used to be and many B+ now are.
"Super C" is another marketing label...
This project sounds like a good candidate for replacement with a residential fridge. I'm not usually enthusiastic about doing that, but if it's parked permanently and running on electric anyhow, why not?
We don't boondock so we could go residential too. What keeps me from doing it is our designation of the coach as "escape capsule" for storms and extended power outages.
On a quick look:
New Fridge $1500
New Amish Cooling Unit $650 plus labor
Rebuilt Cooling Unit $550 plus labor
I'd probably do the New Amish.
EDIT: But your down there in Mexico. Mex keeps mentioning fees and duties adding (multiplying!) cost. Is availability and shipping going to be a factor? Would buying a little residential fridge at a "local" appliance outlet be the cost-effective solution?
Here is a little cheaper drill nibbler but have no experience with it.
I think this one is a Shear not a Nibbler. There ARE Nibblers in that price range ($50 and under), the ones I noted with Mixed Reviews.
There are a number of "drill powered" nibblers, $50 or less, very mixed reviews on Amazon. A friend had a metal shop and told me that air-powered sheet metal shears were a pain because their speed and power changes as you trigger and release the throttle. I wonder if nibbler would be the same, namely electric better.
Mex, I feel your pain... Brand new 1971 Dodge Van, the one we wanted didn't come with A/C so we got it anyway and I installed an A/C kit. One of the first steps was to cut a hole my head could fit in. Right out of the stamped sheet metal dash panel. I borrowed chassis punches in a few different sizes, and for that big cutout I punched the corners and maybe one of the tight corner turns. About six punches, then connected the dots using a saber saw with a metal cutting blade and a cardboard cover over its shoe so it wasn't metal-against-metal. What a harrowing experience! Luckily it fit.
I thought I'd seen a "tin snips" with double blades, that removes a ribbon of material so it doesn't get trapped like most will on a long cut. I don't know what to call them and that didn't contribute to my NOT being able to find an example.
Has to come out of it's "pocket" but I've thought I could do the actual cooling unit swap right inside the coach. Haven't tested that idea, though. RV fridge is more bulky than heavy. I looked up the weight and it said 142 for the N841 I found. It'd be lighter without doors and a couple of the shelves. I'd take the doors off to do the cooling unit to be able to get inside, and reduce possible damage.
And if all you ever get is the $10-or-less (and often Free at Harbor Fright) version
you have a gadget that'll answer about 99% of the meter-able issues you'll have in a RV or at home!
My tip is this:
Make a mark on the end of the pointer that's supposed to do the "Pointing." On that little HF meter, it's marked with a little dimple on that one end. Take a Sharpie and make that dot black. Then you won't blow the meter up 'cause the dumb end pointed to Voltage but the dimple end pointed to Ohms. My cousin was testing a clothes drier and that maneuver let the Smoke right out of it. They run on Smoke. So does a CB radio... Let it out, gadget no workie.
I often call them DVOM's. Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Easier to type than Multimeter. I think I'll call them
"mul TIM eter" - Like a pilot's "al TIM eter" since it lets you know how you're doing.
Let me say again:
JUST GET SOMETHING THAT WON'T LET YOU DOWN!
OK - Here's a cheap fix:
Get Straight Metal Valve Stems
And Air-Through Caps
Put'em on all Six or Seven (if you've got a Spare) Wheels. You just need to remember you'll need TRUCK type Air Gauge and Air Chuck. The "straight" kind that are configured like this:
Not the more common angled one like this:
The STRAIGHT will pass through Dicor Simulators on the common 10-hole Ford wheels. Push straight onto the inner valve cap and pull back onto the outer.
Gene was fortunate. The truck shops I checked at couldn't give me what Gene got.
The fix I show here will also meet the wishes of those who want to rotate all their tires. I don't. I'm willing to leave the rear duals in place and rotate my spare with the two fronts.
1. Domestic "Big Trucks" use a .625" hole in the wheel for the valve. Class C's, Cars, Pickups, etc. use .453". Some valves come with both gaskets, just be sure what you get fits .453".
2. On Ford Class C wheels, a 1-1/2" metal valve will NOT let you put even a truck air gauge onto the valve. The shape of the RIM interferes. You don't notice with Rubber valves since they'll flex. The custom guys (BORG, TM) sell Angled Front valves. If you use 2" valves, you're OK. OR... 1.5" + those Air Through Caps.
But remember this:
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Rubber Tire Valves!!!
Nope, not even with no extenders. That's how we got our Jayco, and I heard leaks just putting the gauge onto the fronts.
On ours, the doors are wooden but the frames and cabinets are some kind of vinyl over probably pressboard or the like. It's common for that finish to turn grayish. I met a man who'd gone over the vinyl-clad with MinWax PolyShades, a modern version of the old "varnish stain." I think he said the shade was "Honey Oak." Coach really looked good.
I've used PolyShades for other projects and been VERY pleased with the results, but I haven't tried the cabinet job. Too many things not working to spend time on things that are...
Tire Man is fine, so is Dually Valve aka BORG.
I found BORG first and have been completely satisfied. Excellent quality, no install issues, and great personal service from Bill FalkenBORG when I (NO fault of the product) ruined an Inner Valve and he rushed me a no-charge replacement.
Just get SOMETHING that:
1. Is Solid Metal
2. Extends to where you can use ANY Air Gauge, ANY Air Chuck
3. Only involves ONE joint, ONE Valve Core
Both products referenced here accomplish all three. You'll go from a miserable tire checking job every few weeks to an easy job every several months. I couldn't believe how much air gets lost with rubber valves, screw-on extenders, etc.
Some kits come with Air-Through Caps. I got six and found the two on the front make ordinary metal stems accessible with our wheel simulators. So I can check all tires with any gauge/chuck and it takes only minutes. I add air only a couple times a year.
If you can outfit your wheels less expensively than BORG or TM, Fine. More Power to You. Just get SOMETHING that does 1-2-3 above, no compromise. Life it too short for tire issues that are SO easily avoided.
As are a few others, I wonder IF:
1. The way the fridge is installed is compromising its air flow over those cooling unit coils on its back
2. It needs a fan because of the side wall vent and lacks one or not working
3. Running the A/C is sucking the cold out through the door gasket, or interfering with air flow in 1. or forcing air "backwards" into the air flow area.
Just looked at subcamper's pix. I remember that thread and holding the brushes in place reminded me of a power window motor. I used paper clips for that too, but that isn't the issue here. Just looked at brushes on Amazon. Even there, there are many choices. Inexpensive till international issues come in.
To my knowledge, HF doesn't sell motor brushes as such. They do, or at least did, include a set of spare replacement brushes for many of their corded hand power tools.
If we figured out something you could use or adapt as brushes, could one of us in the USA, obtain a set and simply mail them to you, padded envelope?