Drew, the ordinary homeowner rotary power mower pretty much "eliminates the flywheel." It's there, but too light to start the mower with nothing on the other end of the crankshaft. It provides the ignition magnets, cooling fan, and no doubt some flywheel effect along with probably some balancing. But it needs the blade to even get running. If you want to run it with say a belt drive and only a pulley, the engine builders sell "heavy flywheel" versions.
Boliy... I was impressed when they came out and early reviews were good. Nearly everybody soon seemed to go sour on them. Think I'd avoid.
Going with the Sticker is the chassis builder playing it safe in case the user loads to full GAWR front and rear. That's all the sticker is. When chassis is under an RV, where loading once determined is fairly constant, pressure should be based on weight not sticker.
I wonder what that shop does when they mount Load Range "E" tires on a coach with your sticker numbers? Go to 80 because that's what the sidewall says? Absurd!
What klutch said. Covering the windshield and blanketing the cockpit off makes a huge difference. Didn't think to mention that. We close the cockpit off with an old Army blanket that's about bulletproof. Then another blanket over the opening up to the cabover. But for most use, we have a screen made of "privacy screen" that's patterned from our vinyl ADCO windshield cover. Just that darkness keeps some of the heat from reflecting off the dashboard. And we can still see out.
I guess some of this borders on the theoretical/academic. It's possible that some Class C builders offer 50-Amp shore tie but I haven't seen one. Super C and Class A, 50A, sure. 30A won't run two A/C units unless you install a load shedder, to make sure only one is running at a time. That sort of defeats the purpose of two A/C's. Also, the biggest rooftop A/C is 15000. They run on a 20A circuit in the coach, but they max a 30A service out because there are always other electrical loads, like the Converter/Charger, running.
My point in this is that a 32-ft, 30-Amp Class C, with 15000 A/C, is at the upper limit of every parameter. Some very hot days may not turn out ideal.
Maybe Chris Bryant has kept track of his "Tune Up your Rooftop A/C" blog post. I had it, lost it, can't find it again.
Our 15K stopped cooling on a recent trip running on "Low Cool" (the lower fan speed). Ran on High Fan awhile and it picked up cooling again. My thought is it froze up on Low, Compressor overheated and tripped internal protector. By the time the ice melted, Compressor was cool enough to start again. Used High Cool the rest of the trip, no issues. This is a Non-Ducted unit, so it doesn't have an actual "freeze sensor." The ducted ones have it and may react differently.
5Maine, is your 31-ft a Slide Coach? Our 31 is not. I can see where slides create more volume to cool as well as more surface to have heat loss let alone more air leaks. Also we're a party of two. I looked up how many BTU's our bodies put out. Seems to be about 350, but I think that's at rest. A youth program director I knew thought 750/teenager was more accurate. Were you driving till 0300, or set up on a site and A/C still couldn't catch up? A moving RV has tons of heat transfer. Very hard to beat the losses driving highway speed in beating sun.
Although I often wish our A/C was ducted instead of just blowing out of both ends of one cabinet, I've come to believe it's more efficient/effective than ducted. Less resistance to the air flow and that flowing air isn't buried in that hot area between ceiling and roof.
When we beach camp, there is no shade for a 14-hour day. We make it, shades down, sometimes awning up on one side. Can't microwave with A/C running. Usually can run toaster --OR-- coffee maker. Water heater has to be LPG during the day, but I can run it from bedtime till breakfast and the water's hot enough to do dishes all day.
Since I don't know what a Magnum is, can't really offer much more. If you have one that you have to prime a bulb, set the choke, then crank (hopefully start) then take the choke off manually, I'd believe auto start would be tricky. Still, people buy "portable" generators for home backup use and I imagine some start automatically.
Our "31" is 32-ft bumper to bumper. Has a single 15000-BTU non-ducted Coleman Mach. It JUST does it. Also makes the coach an energy hog. It's about all we can run in the heat of the day when everybody else is running theirs full time and the campground voltage dips. We're satisfied with the upper 70's and always run on High Fan. On Low, it'll frost up in the FL beach humidity.
But in direct answer, YES, if it's 15000. I don't think the 13500 units would handle that size coach.
Is this a little ONAN like the MicroQuiet 4000 (4KY) series? If so, does yours start every or nearly every time you push the switch to START? I only ask because ours usually needs me to Prime it by holding the switch in STOP till the fuel pump runs. Sometimes twice, before it starts and then it runs great. See if the Auto system senses what's going on and adjusts for it.
Shocks that are simply shocks are not load-bearing. They only resist compression and rebound. Many manufacturers offer shocks with either springs added over them, or an internal air cylinder. These will help level a vehicle that's rear-heavy.
Over the years, Dodge had Short Wheelbase, Long Wheelbase (those had same rear overhang) and Long Wheelbase Extended (extension behind rear wheels). These were the 15-passenger "church vans" and they were skittish on the road. By all means stiffen the rear. Sway bar and maybe track bar too. Just remember you're working with a design that proved problematic.
If the wheels stay on there any extended period of time...at least in a humid area like FL with salt added in beachfront camping...you'll find out how close that fit is. I was able to kick and shake the fronts off the hubs. Sitting beside it and kicking with both feet got the rear outers off. Rear inners? Couldn't budge by hand or foot. Ended up using a piece of 4x6 fence post I had, about 4-ft long, like a battering ram. Our wheels have an extra 7/16" hole between two of the stud holes. I threaded them 1/2 NF (20-thread) and use an old boat trailer lug bolt to force stuck wheels loose. I had to install the rears so the valves are one hole away from directly opposite. Othewise those "now-puller-holes" would line up. I'd be screwing the wheels together instead of pushing them apart.
That Hub-Piloted is a good system. You'll like it. Many of us put Never-Seez in that area before mounting the wheels. I've heard of loosening the nuts and moving the coach a little to loosen the wheels. Only the rear inners seem to be the sticking problem.
If you Chevy is like the current Fords, the wheels are HUB Piloted. Close fit between round hole at wheel center and a raised surface on the hub. The holes the studs pass through are larger than the studs, and the Nuts have a built-in Washer. For Ford, the studs are around 9/16" diameter and torque spec is 140.
I have not researched this for a long time and our results would vary since I'd probably install my own parts. My understanding is that most "American" shocks (Monroe, Gabriel, NAPA, Carquest etc etc) are made in only a couple actual factories. I looked "2008+Versa+S" at advanceautoparts.com and they had:
Monroe Strut and Rear Shock, KYB Strut and Rear Shock. Oddly the Shock is a few moe dollars than the Strut, but each Strut was $60-something and each Shock $70-something. "Warranty" was shown as "Limited Lifetime" for Monroe and not specified for KYB. If the "limited warranty" is pro-rated on miles or worse, is Part-Only-Not-Labor, it isn't worth all that much to somebody paying the labor.
There are four parts to a Strut Assembly. Strut, Spring, Boot/Jounce Bumper and Bearing Plate. The price for that Assembly at Advance was $250-something, so it doesn't make much sense to spend that on a utility vehicle unless all that is somehow damaged.
Mike, I'd say this: If you know and trust your shop, go with what the shop recommends.
Not sure what you mean "out of my league ^^^here^^^ but if it means you're planning to change the struts yourself, several of the manufacturers now offer an assembly that includes Strut, Spring, Mount. Price is higher than a bare strut, but takes most of the labor and spring handling out of the project. If you mean price, there are decent brands like Monroe that should serve well for years.
Agree with above about A/C. Chevy chassis is good, in that size RV.
Repeating the common advice:
MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT LEAK (and/or that son can repair and seal it up)
It'll probably need TIRES regardless of Tread Remaining
Inspect, Flush, Bleed Brake System - Work likely needed there
Possible but impractical to install a high pressure pump into the fuel line. Possible in that it can be done but involves hacking on the lines. Won't work if in-tank has totally failed. Impractical in that you'll still need an in-tank, probably sooner than later. And removing the booster (at least in my friend's case) rendered it and/or the line useless.
What it MAY do, of course, is keep you moving to where somebody can drop the tank.
Only question I still have is do you recommend ever a caliper kit
Yes, recommend in terms of having done a few caliper rebuilds (hold onto that word, "rebuild") for myself, and considered doing that on a recent problem but got remanufactured (notice, different word) instead.
Rebuild: I clean the Caliper and Piston up as well as I can. Most important parts to clean are
1. The Caliper Bore AND the grooves that hold the Square Cross Section O-Ring that holds the pressure and the surface the Dust Seal presses into. New O-Ring and Seal from Kit
2. The Surface of the Piston where it passes through the Square Section O-Ring and of course anything keeping it from sliding freely in the Bore.
Remanufacture: Sandblasted Caliper with O-Ring and Seal mounting areas professionally inspected and cleaned/surfaced. New soft parts as above plus NEW Piston, new bleeder screw and new sealing washers (threads and surfaces cleaned and inspected)
They aren't hard to do but there are tricks and associated risks removing and installing the Piston even if Caliper and Piston are both good.
I paid a mechanic to rebuild a pair of front calipers. Installed and one leaked, big time. Dismantled and found one of the Square Rings cut in two places. That's right, came out in two pieces. That doesn't seal very well. Bought a kit and installed it myself. There you have my training in caliper rebuilds. I think I rebuilt one other pair because the kits were available and reman calipers were not.
Can you do it and will it work? Yes and Probably.
Worth the time and risk? Probably not, and No.
TIP: Replace (or rebuild if you decide to) BOTH Front Calipers and replace both Front Brake Hoses.
TIP: Be sure the Caliper Slide hardware and surfaces are clean and lubed with High Temp Lubricant. Auto supply has in little ketchup packs. Get the kind for ceramic pads even if you aren't using ceramic.
OH... Keep track of Left and Right. Calipers and Hoses are probably different per side.
We were just in Chama, took the train ride into Colorado. From what I remember of our trip by car Santa Fe TO Chama, good thing you weren't trying to go that way. The train trip is excellent. It's available in full and half trips, half being Chama to halfway or so for lunch then return by bus. Can be done that way from the CO end too. Many say the upper half is more dramatic than the lower (Chama) end but my group liked that end better. If your trip includes lunch, it's GOOD and plenty of it! Don't plan dinner out that night.
Did Ford in Santa Fe get you fixed up and running well again? I considered laying out an access hatch from inside the coach down to the top of the tank at the pump. Gave up on that. It would have been in the hallway in front of the bathroom. Under the bed, I'd've done it. IF, that is, I could figure out the boxed steel frame and not cut down right into a 1x2 steel tube. It's flooring on top, sheet metal on the bottom, so really hard to figure a place to lift a section out of. Will have to face dropping the tank. You KNOW it's gonna be Full.
OB's right about the ECO part of a Standing Pilot heater. That's what I was working on when I read about what I posted above. It was an Atwood and the element was installed in the back.
The DSI (Electronic Ignition not Standing Pilot) is well worth the extra cost when getting a new water heater.