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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1364 matches.

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RE: Toad Lights

I added a pair of these http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/413WBBhRh9L._AA160_.jpg width=160 $15 Maxxima LED Stop/Turn/Tail lamps. They're mounted on home made aluminum brackets from a old sign. There's also a version of the same lamp with a 3M adhesive for no-hole surface mounting. Ran four-wire "boat trailer" cable and flat plug along brake lines to the front Part number is Maxxima 42206R available on Amazon.
j-d 03/26/15 04:53am Dinghy Towing
RE: Norcold N1095 fin fan

I couldn't find your model, but according to Page 47 of this manual on BryantRV, the colors are: Thermistor = White/Black and Red/White Light = Red and Black/White Wish I knew what turns the Light On/Off. In our N811, I don't remember seeing a Switch either, and I know the Logic Board turns it Off after a period of open-door time. When we had an older Dometic, with a Switch, I installed a fan and I think the way I did it was go across the Light Switch. Is there enough space in the little chase the four wires you describe run in, to be able to run two more skinny little wires?
j-d 03/25/15 05:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda abandons Dinghy market?

Anything Subaru manual shift that suits your fancy. I like the CrossTrek but Forester has much more room behind the back seat. DW and I both prefer manual shift so we still have some choices. Look at Nissan XTerra, solid machine but I think a little heavier than you want. Consult the Owner's Manual in every candidate you look at, and include a truck scale in your test drive.
j-d 03/25/15 05:13pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Factory-Direct Purchase Experience

^^^ Excellent point on Wheelbase! The problem of excess rear overhang relative to wheelbase seems to happen in the midrange of Class C sizes, but it's probably possible even in smaller ones. Not enough WB can lead do Overloaded Rear Axle, Wander and Sway, Underloaded Front Axle, similar problems. Front Axle should carry at least 1/3 of loaded weight per truck scale. Some express it as 75% of front axle GAWR, which seems to work out about the same most of the time.
j-d 03/25/15 04:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reflections on 6 Months of RV Research! ;)

In the biggest rigs, like 18-wheel road tractors, the rear axles are true tandem and also duallies. Eight tires back there and both axles are powered. The big "tour" buses and many Class A's have a "tag" axle with a single tire on each end. The forward rear axle is dually and powered and the tag relieves some of the weight. I don't know how many Class A's do this, but I've seen the tour buses lift the tag axle to aid in close quarters maneuvering. I can see how tandem singles on a motorhome would be less subject to that extreme scrubbing in close maneuvers that trailers are. But I think it's because you can force a trailer into a jacknife position with the tow vehicle. Motorhome can't jacknife itself. Tour bus can't literally jacknife itself, but some have such an extreme "cut" in the steering that they'll drag the tag sideways unless they lift it.
j-d 03/24/15 04:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reflections on 6 Months of RV Research! ;)

Trailer tandems really scrub in tight manauvers, like jackknifing, on pavement. You hear then creak and groan, even springs and shackles grinding. Tire may dismount if not fully inflated. Lug nuts loosen. Fortunately this is rare and can usually be avoided. Most of the time this happens to RVers, we're on sand or gravel and the scrubbing gets taken out on the surface, not the tires.
j-d 03/24/15 05:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: electrical chassis ground screw broken

Sounds like you've got that ground restored with a new screw and probably a lock washer. Good on YOU! Bet things work better now, too.
j-d 03/23/15 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: electrical chassis ground screw broken

Is that broken screw into what's like formed sheet metal forming the frame, or heavier duty material like angle iron or square tubing? Those have more thickness to hold onto your broken screw (or to resist drilling). The tip of the screw probably estends on the back side. Using penetrating oil, maybe heat, it's possible you could take vise-grips and continue to "drive" the screw till it came out the back side. If it's into tubing, no. Just drill/tap a new hole.
j-d 03/23/15 06:35am Tech Issues
RE: Reflections on 6 Months of RV Research! ;)

^^^Desirable-looking C. Wheels/tires look small. Are the rears dual? Tandem rears make sense for a low, flat, coach floor. It'd be nice if it's got decent load capacity. Hard to get basement storage into one that low, though. Need a wheel and door on he right side...
j-d 03/23/15 06:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: onan 7000 watt marquis

Found it! At least for our old BFA "4.0 RV Genset" which was twin-cylinder opposed 1800-RPM. Parts list shows Flywheel with four holes around the crankshaft hole. A Steering Wheel or Vibration Damper Puller (with the correct capscrews to thread into the flywheel) should pull it. You'd back the bolt holding flywheel to crankshaft out a couple turns and let the puller bear on it. At least that's how the pic in my manual looks. Of course the design could have changed. BFA was an old machine. NOTE: OP seems to indicate that the flywheel is between Engine and Generator sections. The gensets in my manual have the flywheel in a blower housing at one end of the unit, not between the sections...
j-d 03/22/15 06:54pm Tech Issues
RE: onan 7000 watt marquis

I tried to find something in the manual I have for an older BFA and couldn't find anything about this removal. But let me offer a warning: Be sure you have torqued the flywheel back down before you do anything that could lead to a cylinder firing. This will break the flywheel at the keyway. Torque it first!
j-d 03/22/15 05:52pm Tech Issues
RE: electrical chassis ground screw broken

Jayco used ST screws with drill point tips. I've found them through the chassis of our Ford E450. Once IN, they break off at any attempt to back OUT. They must have spun them in with an air tool going about a million RPM. I'd drill and tap as noted above. Make a stop for the drill bit that allows it to just get through the chassis rail material.
j-d 03/22/15 04:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda abandons Dinghy market?

^^^ Exactly!!! I believe towability is a fallout of design, not of intent. For example "OH! This Transfer Case has Neutral. And its chain dips in the lubricant. Bet somebody could tow this all day." gOOgle "CVT" and one of its benefits is "low cost to manufacture." Hmmm...
j-d 03/22/15 04:07pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Reflections on 6 Months of RV Research! ;)

In recent years, Ford has made the E350 more E450-like. 5000# front axle, larger fuel tank, rear sway bar (which like E450 isn't big enough), and I believe the widened the rear track and possibly added hydro-boost brakes. It still is not an E450 since the rear axle rating isn't as high, and the frame is less robust. Still, in things like rear axle track, they've become similar. There's a Ford site that tracks changes by model year. Promaster - be careful of this one. We've had a case here where all the frame stretching was behind the rear axle. Axle overloaded and near no carrying capacity. Remember it's only single rear wheels with front drive. Not at all sure RV's should be built on Promaster, unless maybe the frame doesn't need to be extended.
j-d 03/22/15 10:06am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Winnebago Outlook Flashing gas indicator on fridge

In cases like this the Make/Model of the Fridge is more important than the Coach it's installed in. Please post that info. In Tech Issues is better, because any fridge is used in many types of RV.
j-d 03/21/15 07:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tow Dolly Tires D vs. R what's the difference?

I looked up GY Marathon, and the 13" and 14" are available in Load Range C only. Starting at the 15" sizes, Load Ranges C and D are available. Somewhere on the sidewall your new Marathons should say something like "Max Load 1760 pounds at 50 PSI." If the tires you're replacing have a similar rating, you should be fine.
j-d 03/21/15 04:16pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Roof contruction

Recent models of Forest River coaches (Sunseeker and Forester) have FG roofs and it seems some of the newer Jayco's as well.
j-d 03/21/15 11:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: From 1-10 how difficult to install hookups on toad?

Mike, I downloaded and reviewed Install for Roadmaster 52347-1. Several things I like: 1. It's an "EZ" style kit. This is the one that gives you a quick install/remove like BlueOx had so many years earlier. Our Frontier pickup has "XL" brackets, the ones with square tubing and a hitch pin and clevis clip each side. A PITA, frankly. 2. Both Drawbar Receivers are part of the main Base Plate. On many RM Base Plates, the Receivers attach separately and that style usually requires an external cross brace (parallel to the bumper). Don't quote me, but this base plate may well NOT require that brace. In the campground the BlueOx equipped cars looked like visitors since all the tow gear was off. The RM equipped cars looked like they had snowplow frames. Owners only disconnected the towbar and called it good. 3. You don't have to cut the visible FASCIA, only some of the hidden black plastic underneath. 4. Your complete OEM bumper and impact pad are preserved. 5. You only have to drill FOUR holes. You'd need a decent 1/2" drill "motor" and a good quality 1/2" metal bit. Two of the holes drill from bottom up, so the car will need to be raised off the ground. Borrow a pair of those RAMPS the DIY guys use for oil changes. A lot of the install is removing and reinstalling Fascia etc. This makes the instructions much longer because they tell you where to find every clip. That's good; don't be intimidated by all the text. The best prices I've seen have been right at $400. Looks like you can get free shipping without too much trouble. Might be able to avoid sales tax depending on your state's rules. In FL I could order from an outfit with no physical presence in FL and not pay tax. But say an online order from Camping World is taxable since they have stores and probably a warehouse in FL.
j-d 03/21/15 07:23am Dinghy Towing
RE: Leaking Rear Hub on DP

Good on YOU! Did it have those "keepers?" Sounds like yours didn't. Please let us know if it's stopped oozing.
j-d 03/20/15 09:58pm Tech Issues
RE: From 1-10 how difficult to install hookups on toad?

BlueOx at least till recently seemed more "elegant" in their design and the way the drawbars attach to/remove from the baseplate once the towbar is disconnected. RM has a new series that adds similar elegance. We have the "XL" series where the drawbars are square tubing that slide into square tubing in the baseplate and are retained with hitch pins with clevis pins. Very nicely made but they look like something made in a home shop vs. a major factory. But their stuff is STRONG!!! Remember, baseplate must integrate with towbar. That's where that Roadmaster A-Frame could end up costing you less in total than the cheaper Reese, because the RM bar should mate to the RM baseplate without you having to buy or fabricate some adapters.
j-d 03/20/15 09:53pm Dinghy Towing
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