| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Helwig sway bar
You'll be pleased. I slid ours under the coach on top of the box it came in and that put me close enough to install without a helper. Bought front and rear from SD like many of us have. I wasn't the first one but was one of the earlier ones. They're easy to deal with and can actually answer questions.
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 06:27pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Wandering Nightmare
You absolutely don't want toe-OUT. What were/are your CASTER settings?
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 04:03pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: A question on fuel for a E-450 ford chassis
x2 on the Chip or Tune. Without one of those, no need to up the octane. And some Tunes take you to what they consider max for 87, then tell you higher is required for the higher versions they offer.
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 02:16pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Need to buy new tires...any suggestions
When we had the 1983 E350 chassis, like Jose, I got seven Futura Scramblers, 8.75R16.5D. Stuff was less in 2000, paid $700 out the door for all seven. And never had one minute's trouble. The rears stayed in place till I did a brake job. I rotated Spare to LF, LF to RF, RF to rear whenever I felt like it, no more often than a year. Tires looked good when we sold the coach in 2009. Good tread, even wear, and no checking/cracking. I liked PepBoys because they had a national presence.
If our "1984" Coach had been on an 84 chassis, wheels would have been easy to find. 83 and older, much more difficult.
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 08:12am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: TAIL DRAG SOLUTION? E-450
Our 31 Jayco will drag. We haven't done much but try to plan approaches and departures in a way that both sets of rear wheels don't hit a dip at the same time. A One-then-Other move helps a lot.
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 06:21am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Dash vents not working
Done any underhood work lately? We broke the vacuum line in a TBird changing the battery.
|
j-d
|
06/18/13 06:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Duo Therm AC freezing up
Try Cleaning It
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 07:44pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Dash vents not working
I think "Blend" is the door that balances heater core with air conditioning evaporator to produce your desired temperature. Not as sure of the name for "Mode Select" or whatever that part is, but I don't think it's same as Blend. Quite a few vehicles use Electric for Blend and Vacuum for Mode. Default is Defrost, so I'm with the crew that says it's a vacuum problem. Broken hose, cracked vacuum reservoir...
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 07:29pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: More Generator Issues?
Did you run your fuel tank low, the time it quit?
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 11:45am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Squeak between chassis and house
Can't help but notice that the whole thread is OPs from the Far North with their rough roads.
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 10:05am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Stone in brakes, the Squeal and the ears!!
Was it the same side both times? If so, even without pulling a wheel, you might be able to compare the offending side with the opposite side. It'd be a mirror image, but both sides should have the same shielding, installed the same way.
I don't end up on many gravel roads but some are sandy. I happen to know the RV rentals in Alaska don't allow use of their coaches on unpaved roads.
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 09:21am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Stone in brakes, the Squeal and the ears!!
First I've heard of it, though I can picture it. If you really have fresh tires (deep tread, and that's a good thing) I can see where the tires might collect more gravel to disperse in various directions.
I've had similar noise where the splash pan behind the disc (supposed to help keep stuff out of the brake) got bent and was too close to the rotor. Believe it or not, the splash pan can be just close enough to the rotor that it'll rub and cause a squeal only on a turn. Of course it can get close enough to make noise all the time.
|
j-d
|
06/17/13 07:08am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 1988 Fleetwood class c airconditioning????
The "house" battery (that powers stuff in the coach) or the "chassis" battery? I think you mean House. Do you now its history? Had you checked it before today? Did it ever work for you? A loose connection, while the battery is charging, maybe even discharging, can cause an explosion. It'll pop the battery case open. A loose cell connector could do that also by causing a spark inside the battery right where the hydrogen gas is.
|
j-d
|
06/16/13 09:37pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Tire Wear / Tire Inflation Question
Thanks. Let me add something I just learned recently on this Forum...
Anytime we run the rear outer dual off the road (usually the passenger side) the tire that's still on the pavement carries the full half of the rear axle load till the outer gets back on solid footing. That makes the right rear inner the most likely to blow out first. That's unless we "curb" the outers by running into obstructions...
|
j-d
|
06/16/13 11:03am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Wandering Nightmare
I'm not going to try and follow the electrical engineering route, but remember that "output" becomes "input" on a Ford chassis. If the coach has "body roll" the rolling causes the Swing Axle (Twin-I-Beam) to receive a steering input. The more we can limit roll (sway if you prefer), the less unwanted steering input we get. It seems improbable but the rear spring mountings (shackles and rubber bushings) allow the chassis to wander away from being centered on the axle. Since the steering is solidly mounted to the chassis in front, it doesn't wander in the same way as the rear. Rear wandering causes the coach to try to stray out of its lane. Driver corrects, and staying in lane becomes a seesaw battle. Rear Track Bar (Panhard Rod) fights that by keeping the Axle centered under the Chassis.
|
j-d
|
06/16/13 11:00am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Tire Wear / Tire Inflation Question
The tires should not be inflated above 80 PSI Cold.
Crown of the Road will mean that the Inners bear a little more weight than Outers. They also run a little warmer. I'd say those two add up to a little more wear inside than outside.
Can you rotate the rears to get the Outers to the In and Inners to the Out? The tires should not be inflated above 80 PSI Cold.
You have negligible wear after 3yr/25000mi. Project out on that, and you won't wear them out before replacing on old age. Based on that, you can justify doing nothing you aren't doing already.
|
j-d
|
06/16/13 10:29am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Bigfoot hydraulic automatic Leveling Jacks - Class C
Understood. Direct wouldn't be Direct if the top moves. I haven't looked for the details, but I can only believe the Direct for Class C uses a telescoping piston like some of the short high lift bottle jacks have. Far better idea than a Frankenstein kickdown arrangement.
|
j-d
|
06/16/13 06:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Chevy 454 broken exhaust studs...What to do now?
Reports of successful drilling suggest that we don't want to go back in with hardened or stainless fasteners. I haven't seen it myself, but have it on good authority that stainless becomes hard and brittle when subjected to high heat like exhaust. I replaced a set with stainless not knowing this and they never broke.
|
j-d
|
06/15/13 12:39pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Bigfoot hydraulic automatic Leveling Jacks - Class C
I wonder if the Class C has to be a "basement" model to allow straight-down jacks. The higher the coach floor is raised off the chassis, the more room to have REAR jacks. I don't know how longer jacks would work out under the cab, which doesn't get raised.
|
j-d
|
06/15/13 12:35pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Chevy 454 broken exhaust studs...What to do now?
Is the one that's broken below the gasket surface where you can even line a drill up on it? If you can, perhaps you can try this:
Buy or make a bushing that fits the manifold hole and centers a 3/16 or 1/4 drill bit. Install the manifold so the bushing centers the drill hole over the center of the stud. Then drill with left-handed drill bit. Might just back the broken piece out. If not, you'll drill your way to a centered hole for a screw extractor.
These exhaust fasteners don't break because they "twisted off" but because they were stressed side-to-side repeatedly by the manifold heating and cooling but at a different rate than the head. The broken piece may be rusted in place but not galled in place like one that broke by twisting.
|
j-d
|
06/14/13 07:54pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
