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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1211 matches.

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RE: 2003 Sunseeker House Batteries dies

That Red Key most likely must be ON in order to Charge the House Battery. Converter/Charger "Might" be wired differently but I doubt it. Must be OFF when coach is unplugged. There are various devices that draw power while off, or can't be turned off (like LPG alarm) that those Parasitic Loads will run a good battery down in a week or less.
j-d 11/21/17 10:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Vent issue-help me understand this

I rarely get to use Full Hookups. I knew to leave the Black Tank drain closed, but thought I could leave the Gray Tank drain open. Got foul odors in coach, even with water in traps. AAV's seemed OK. Closed Gray Valve and odor stopped. No proof, but my working theory is that the open valve allowed odor from the campground sewer system to circulate into the Gray Tank, and some of that flowed out of the Roof Vent, flooding the coach with it from the upper outside.
j-d 11/21/17 09:04am Tech Issues
RE: 22.5 Wheel size ?????

Usually when the inner wheels are steel, it’s because the owner didn’t want to spend the extra money on Alcoas for the inside. You can install longer studs if needed. Not quite. If the wheels are Hub Piloted, the portion of the Hub that does the actual centering, AND the load bearing, may not be broad enough to support the outer wheel if the inner wheel is overly thick.
j-d 11/20/17 08:39pm Tech Issues
RE: 'winnebago chalet grey valve' found 0 matches.

Amazon search as "RV sewer valve replacement" produces a few hits. The valves are usually 1-1/2" for Gray and 3" for Black. The kits seem to be cable operated. Those cable jackets are stiff, at least the ones under our Jayco are. Both cables reach across the underside of the coach.
j-d 11/19/17 06:40pm Tech Issues
RE: DuallyValve, Braided, Crossfires, Cats Eye

What Wheel Covers to you have, that 7" inner dual valves won't reach? *** As pictured above, whatever came with the RV. They just shark bite in and pound with rubber mallet to seat them. *** Your simulator looks like the Dicor brand ones we have, except you have the late (2008+) sims for wheels with four oval hand holes. We have the 1992-2007 wheels with eight useless round holes, so our sims have eight small holes. We have plenty of reach, without needing any extension, to check and air up our tires. You'll be pleased! We had one of the worst setups: Rubber valves with metal extenders. I tried everything to check and add air. Tried to hold the valves with needle nose vice grips, usually gave up and took the sims off. That's part of why I went for a "complete" solution. I can check air with any gauge, and add air with any chuck.
j-d 11/19/17 01:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: DuallyValve, Braided, Crossfires, Cats Eye

TC, Take it from a Hold-Out. Get custom valves and get them installed. Had ours installed and balanced at the local Navy Base and they had no problems with the balancer. New tires at Discount Tire, no problem there. Navy wouldn't work on the MH, so I put the coach up on stands and brought them all seven wheels. Discount would work on it, but it was easier for me to have it on stands and again bring them just the wheels. CAUTION!!! I didn't just happen to have it up on stands, or put it on stands for tires at Discount. I was replacing rear brake calipers and saw two tires failing with cracks down in the tread ribs. It was THEN that I fumbled an Inner and it fell on that long stem. I din't have a cap on it, so it buggered the actual Core area. That was when I called Bill at Dually Valve and he sent me a free replacement that arrived next day. I installed ordinary metal truck valves on front and spare. The Ford wheel shape kept me from getting the air chuck on the short valves I'd gotten so I was using an extension to check air. Removed extension and replaced cap when done. Then I got the "Gator" aka "V2B" Airless Caps and found they provide the little bit of extension needed with short metal valves. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/419TI3nLzML._AC_US160_.jpg width=200It's a Cap in itself so you don't need to add one. Dually and T-M both sell six wheel kits with angled valves for the fronts. You really don't need those with slightly longer ordinary valves or even short valves plus Gator Cap. Wife was sitting out when I unlocked the cab door, got the gauge, checked six tires and two air bags then mut the gauge away, all in about ONE MINUTE. Only 'cause I already had my glasses on. Extensions put weight on your valves. They also offer a point of potential leakage. What Wheel Covers to you have, that 7" inner dual valves won't reach?
j-d 11/19/17 05:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Holiday Rambler Electric Issues

I'm glad it's done, it works, and you get to enjoy what's just got to be One Great Coach!
j-d 11/19/17 05:34am Tech Issues
RE: Not so obvious - things to remember

Now every time we go to take off no matter what, we BOTH do a walk around. River Edge Campground Fairbanks Alaska: Caravan of Dutch Star Diesel Pushers took up about a third of the sites. When they left, the WATER was out. One had left the hose connected and uprooted a goodly part of the campground's water plumbing. Anyhow, DW and I are living on borrowed time. So far, we haven't done some of the stuff listed here. We don't have slides to worry about and we don't hook up CATV or put a dish out. Haven't lost an antenna, or even forgotten to retract the leveling jacks. But let me contribute a near miss: Deployed Leveling Jacks on the Concrete Pad at home. That part was OK, but the dicey part was I hadn't made sure the jack's footprint was clear of the Shore Tie Cable that I'd run under the coach. Luckily it was.
j-d 11/17/17 06:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear Wheel Mud Flap

If I were to replace the mud flaps I would buy the Anti Spray Those really look like Good Stuff!!! I'm not enough of a physicist to have any idea how the dimples prevent spray, but if they do, they do. Read the details and they are 1/2" thick. The one I bought is probably 1/4". Since I have an inverted tee metal brace behind my home made flaps, I doubt they sail much, but that 1/2" sounds like an easier alternative. Original flap was 18W by 20H. My new ones are 18W by 24H. That works out to 6" below the body edge and 9" off the pavement. What's the right height?
j-d 11/17/17 01:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: DuallyValve, Braided, Crossfires, Cats Eye

This is the Dually Valve Kit for the rear wheels of a 2008 or newer Ford Class C chassis. Looks like this: http://yourtireshopsupply.com/image/273/10708/210/220/dl1fc-chrome-duallyvalve-kit-dl1fc.jpg width=300 I mention this because these "Borg" valves were the first solution I found, probably 8 years ago. I had them installed on the rear wheels, and ordinary metal truck tire valves in the fronts and spare. Then I added the Air-Through Caps as noted above, available at Amazon, NAPA, lots of places. I don't think you can goof the choice between DuallyValve/Borg and TireMan. Borg was the choice I found, they've served faultlessly, and they rushed me a replacement when I ruined one doing brake work. Personally, I recommend this type of solution. One piece installation NOT tied to wheel covers. Some like Borg, others like others, but we agree on this: No Better Solution! Just Do It!
j-d 11/17/17 01:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 22.5 Wheel size ?????

i detest RVs that have different front and rear wheels like some do, this used to be common on Class C Agreed! I don't want Alcoa's for that reason as well. Either the center hole shoulder on the Rear Hub isn't wide enough for two thick alloy wheels to pilot onto, Or the Studs aren't long enough. So Class C's, probably some pickups, and I've seen it on a diesel pusher, the inner rears are still steel when Alcoa's are installed. I've heard some Alloy Wheels are polished on only the side that shows when installed. Three different kinds of wheels for ONE RV? Hardly the Simple Life we hope for on the road.
j-d 11/17/17 04:31am Tech Issues
RE: 22.5 Wheel size ?????

The wheel needs to have the same OFFSET as the originals. If the part of the wheel with the pilot hole and lug holes was centered on the width of the rim, it would have Zero Offset. Wheels on dual wheeled vehicles always have Offset. Among other things, the correct Offset allows the correct clearance between the sidewalls of the rear tires.
j-d 11/16/17 09:25pm Tech Issues
RE: spare tire bracket

Another OP on Class C recently added a spare tire carrier that works like those on many newer vans/SUVs/pickups. Cable and winch arrangement. We have them on our minivan and midsize pickup. They're great, and would solve the "horsing the spare in place" problem. I don't have space under our Class C. If I did, that's what I'd get. Just hook it up and turn the crank.
j-d 11/15/17 09:36pm Tech Issues
RE: spare tire bracket

If you want to use your bumper you might consider the Safety Struts . You continue to amaze me! How have I been on this Forum all this time, and not known about these??? I found little tears at the bracket welds on our 4" cardboard steel bumper and had a reinforcement welded to it. Also took the spare off and now store it under the bed. I doubt the PO's carried anything else on the spare tire or its mount. And I've heard of others with torn bumpers with the original welds. It seems that SSN and SNU brackets are my best bet. SSN actually, since it seems SNU is the SSN brackets with extra fasteners for box chassis rails. We have a channel with the hitch through the bottom and bumper brackets (welded to the bumper, that's where it tore) bolted to the sides of the channel. So, concerns me that the Safety Struts need to mount OVER the existing bumper bracket bolts, which are 1/2" with washers. Awkward. I printed the SSN/SNU Template and verified that it printed to scale. Next step I make a cardboard or wood paneling template and see where it falls in my setup. All this triggered what I think is a GREAT IDEA!!! When our cardboard steel square bumper is damaged, torn, or rusted through (only a matter of time), the new tube is inexpensive. Problem is, it doesn't come with brackets! So we still need to find a shop to fab new brackets, or cut the old ones off and weld to the new. It seems to me that Safety Struts could BE the brackets for a new bumper tube. Mount it up and go to a shop with a wire welder to tack the new tube to the Struts...
j-d 11/15/17 03:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Spare tire access tool

It's very common for an RV to come with a Lug Wrench but not a Jack as included in Cars. But I agree with the others: If it Has a Spare, You Should Get the Cradle Tool!
j-d 11/15/17 06:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2005 Winnebago Itasca Cambria

In my post above, I should have added: 1. Print out This Chart 2. At the Truck Stop, once you have the CAT Scale Weight Slip, adjust Tire Air Pressure 3. This Chart is set up by AXLE weight which is what the CAT Scale will give you. Adjust Tire Pressure according to the Chart for your Tire Size. Be sure to apply Single or Dual! If tires are Hot, go to the next higher pressure if you're between values, or add 3 PSI (this is a guess, but close) 4. Continue or repeat your Test Drive. It's very common for folks to "sidewall" the air pressure. Says 80 so I put 80. Could well be that the front tires in a small/medium Class C call for 55 at their front axle scale weight. At 80 it'll wander like crazy. Rear pressure doesn't affect tracking much if at all 5. DO NOT go by Ford's door jamb sticker. It assumes full load on both axles and a 26-ft RV won't have that. If Winne posted lower values, try those. Otherwise, I'd guess 60-F and 70-R, even hot
j-d 11/15/17 06:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: My Ford E350 running a bit hotter

Sounds like progress, Ryan... Did you leave the radiator's in-tank transmission cooler in the circuit? Have you been able to confirm the torque converter is locking?
j-d 11/14/17 05:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Info and opinions on 1996 Minnie 21RB

It's possible that if you ran the VIN, you'd find the unit was classified "Rebuilt."
j-d 11/13/17 06:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2005 Winnebago Itasca Cambria

You can look up a VIN Decoder and verify the Model Year. There's probably also a Transmission Code on the door jamb label. Also, Shift Knob on 4-speed (4R100) is marked "OD Off" and the 5-speed (5R110) says "Tow Haul", or "T/H" or the like. The 2005's probably started build in AUG/SEP 2004. Drive this coach and WEIGH IT!!! Find out what the Wheelbase and Actual Coach Length are. Some of the "Guides" say WB/Length should be at least 52% for good handling and tracking on the road. I believe it should be in the upper 50%'s, closer to 60% the better. Weight (at a truck stop CAT scale or the like) will tell you if 1. Front Axle bears enough weight for good tracking and 2. That the Rear Axle is not overloaded
j-d 11/13/17 05:50am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gas Fuel pumps (Ford)

If it's a Ford gasser with fuel injection, that in-tank pump will not flow fuel if it's not running. In other words, you can't pull gas through a failed pump with an external pump. I think you "could" gut an in-tank pump and use it as a pickup for an external one. The problem then would be sourcing an external pump that provided the pressure and volume the EFI requires...AND would suck the fuel out of the tank. The in-tank ones work submerged. They have little to no lift capability.
j-d 11/12/17 07:56pm Class C Motorhomes
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