...it just never occurred to me to turn off the power at the pedestal before plugging in at the camp ground...
Thanks for "fessin-up" to that! RVing would be SO much better if everybody understood that arcing thing and connected/disconnected accordingly.
I don't have the engineering to back it up, but just looking at 30A and 50A plugs, it seems to me that 30A connections are more failure prone than the 50's. I also think more 30A RV's run close to max amps than the 50's do. All this means the 30A receptacles we plug into are likely to be shot! Pitted from arcing, leading to heating, leading to lost tension on the contacts. Leading to more of the same.
Met an RVer who's an electrician. He keeps a couple 30A male plugs aboard, and has installed several for fellow campers. Shout Out to You, PHIL!
Had a 360 years ago. Used oil after I sent the heads out for a valve job. Ended up replacing the stem seals myself with heads on the engine. I don't remember the brand I used, probably Victor or the like. I know they were not speed shop/hot rod parts. I remember they looked different from what the shop put on it, and I think they had little garter springs.
When I can, I'll try to find the 2008 Owner's Manual. In the meanwhile, remember that the Owner Manual doesn't "Morph" into the latest recommendations. Simple example is that engine oil with a service index printed in your model year might not even be for sale any longer. The example I'm thinking of is Rear Axle Lube. Our manual says Dino Oil for the rear but the current thinking is Full Synthetic. And, Dino had a service interval, while Full Syn is "permanent" unless the axle gets submerged in water. WalMart has SuperTech Full Syn for about $11 a bottle, a very good price for that. Just be sure it's not the Dino or Blend they also sell.
Brake Fluid is a Must Change, with the premium DOT3 (I think it's stil 3, not 4 which is different).
Power Steering Fluid...? Two points:
1. It's starting to come into view because a company called "BG" has come up with ways to Flush Everything Automotive. They sell mechanics and the mechanics sell us. That said, We run vehicles longer than we used to, and the fluid DOES get contaminated. Especially on Rack and Pinion systems. Aluminum parts instead of Steel. I replaced the Rack in a Buick with 120,000 and later the Pump. The Pump was FULL of Grit and Grime, not good lubrication for itself or the Rack. The Rack wasn't leaking but it'd jam in a turn and not want to return to Center.
2. E450's (and others) use HydroBoost braking. Instead of Vacuum, HB uses hydraulic pressure from the Power Steering Pump as its power source. This produces Several Times more brake apply pressure than vacuum brakes. This means there is a Steering Fluid-to-Brake Fluid intersection in the HB unit. We need to do everything we can to keep sour brake fluid OR sour steering fluid from damaging the seals!!! If those fluids get to mixing, it's an unholy mess.
This is your new coach, right? Although it might sound like RM copped out on you, it seems odd to me, too, that those threads would strip. On OUR coach, sure. We have loads of corrosion (politically correct name for RUST) under there. That was the worst part for me, upgrading the rear sway bar. One of the captive nuts on the axle bracket wouldn't come loose and once I got a long enough wrench on it, the spot welds broke, leaving the nut spinning but still stuck. I got past that eventually and got'er done.
Thinking of welding a coat hanger or similar rod to a nut... That's the school solution, and of course companies like RM furnish such where needed for a new installation.
WAIT!! Epiphany! Is there a Trailer Hitch Shop (like a major U-Haul garage) nearby? Might have some extra "wired nuts" around. You don't care if it's Metric or English, so long as you get a matched Nut/Bolt set. Be sure the threads are free and clean so there's no torque on the nut till it bottoms and starts to tighten.
Otherwise, if you ran coat hanger wire around a nut, pinched it tight, then added some Epoxy, you'd have a Poor Man's Wired Nut.
These Whiz Nuts are wonderful for staying where you tighten them. And, the Flange would provide more surface for epoxy to stick to.
If you're sure it's Vapor Lock (liquid gasoline evaporating to vapor in the fuel line/filter), then have you inspected the routing of the fuel line? It may be near a hot spot. Exhaust, for example, of the road engine or the genny itself.
Are you sure the genny's fuel pump isn't weak? If it persists, I suppose you could mount another pump, near the main fuel tank, and let it have a very short "pull" from the tank then it would "push" the fuel toward the genny. This is part of the logic behind putting the fuel pump IN the tank. With the fuel being PUSHED all the way from Tank to Engine, very little chance for it to go to vapor.
Just be sure that if you add another electric pump, that it works off of whatever safety feature that stops the OEM pump if the genny stops. You can determine that from the wiring diagram in the service manual, or probably just tie it to the power for the OEM pump. Might need a bigger fuse..
You may be able to MacGyver a nut onto a wrench. Tape the nut into an open end wrench, tape the wrench to a yardstick, that kind of thing. But definitely call Roadmaster and see if they can help. Hendersons Line-Up in Grants Pass OR might have a suggestion. John Henderson there, told me he spends an hour or two a day, answering inquiries.
I had self-tapping bolts tear up the threaded inserts in the frame of my truck while installing a Roadmaster base plate. I drilled the botched threads out and used bolts with nuts behind the drilled inserts.
Its on the 2007 chassis with the less "bold" grille.
There are "improvements" every model year. In 2008, when the appearance changed, the interior did too, but the BIG improvement was FAR better Front Disc Brakes.
Don't ever "Do a Brake Job" on an E-Series 2007 or earlier. Get a 2008 or newer setup from a company that converts E250/350/450 to 4x4 using F350 parts. You can buy new assemblies, taken off of vehicles being converted, for no more than Pads/Calipers/Rotors for yours. The 2008+ components are bigger throughout. Larger diameter, thicker rotors, Bigger, thicker pads, Bigger calipers. I got a whole front axle assembly with brakes and radius arms from Quigley in PA. There's U-Joint Offroadin Fletcher NC where Chris might be able to help you. And Northwest Quad Van in Portland OR, but shipping gets steep on heavy parts.
For others: Buying a take-off axle assembly is less expensive than doing a ball-joint/bushing job, too.
I got the whole front "kit" from a 2012 chassis, and the ride, steering and especially BRAKING of our 2002 are all greatly improved.
We added the 5 star tuner to change the engine tuning and shift pattern and very rarely do I have to disengage the OD myself. It handles the shifting much better on its own and I get a little better MPG too
Dave, is your transmission an "Overdrive" 4R100 or a "Five Speed" Torqshift? I'm interested in a Five-Star Tuner, mostly to get better transmission shifting, and haven't found anybody yet using one on a heavy E450 rig with Overdrive/4R100 like we have in our 2002 chassis. Everybody'd like More Power, Better Mileage is always nice, but that Shifting thing REALLY needs help!
Congratulations! 31C is a model many of us LOVE!
Is your 2008 coach on a 2008 Chassis, the one with the massive grille, or a 2007 Chassis, with the smaller grille?
If you'll post Model and Spec of the Generator, might be able to find you a manual. I don't know if there are free OEM manuals for the Ford Chassis...
Our first Class C had two 12V batteries. In Parallel, that doubles the amp hours available. We didn't need all that capacity since we were only traveling to sites with water and electricity.
What I found, though, is that two 12V's don't seem to play well together. One tends to decline a little and ruin the other. Threads here seem to bear that out from others' experiences. Two 6V's don't seem to have that issue. Problem with 6's is of course that both have to be functional since the coach needs 12V.
So... Given you have space for two batteries, if you need the capacity, check height clearance for 6V GC batteries and install a pair in series for 12V. But if all you need is for travel, chilling fridge at home, etc. I'd say get a good 12V DEEP CYCLE battery and save a few $.
As pointed out. Not Marine Start, not Dual Purpose, but full Deep Cycle, such as a Trolling Motor battery. I was in WallyWorld just yesterday and stopped at the batteries, looking at the GP 24's which is an automotive battery group, they also had specialty 24's. Marine Start, Marine Dual Purpose, and Deep Cycle. The Deep Cycle was the most expensive.
Personally, I like WallyWorld Batteries. They aren't the cheapest or the most expensive, but I've had good luck with their durability. Every bit as important to me, there are WallyWorld's everywhere, and many are 24-hour. It's great to be able to get one from a nearby source, any time, any day.
Our 32" flat screen is mounted on a VideoSecu articulating mount, about $25 on Amazon. I attached one end of a small bungee to an existing screw (window frame in my case) and the other end hooks into a hole in the rear center of the mount. It stays put, well. Probably helps that the TV is somewhat parallel to the direction of travel, so Start/Stop don't put all that much pressure on it. The trick is to keep it from starting to move.
Should add... Didn't trust the walls to hold the base of the mount. I was able to drill through the end of a cabinet that was made of particle board, and fasten with two 1/4" bolts with heads on the bracket and nuts inside. WasThis Mount
Interesting posts. I've been told by two big truck alignment centers in the Atlanta area that the only way to change Caster on my 2016 Aspect was to bend the frame. I sure hate to have to drive to Henderson's in Oregon to correct my problem.
RV Builders use Model Names different ways over the years. But
This Aspect is on a Ford E350 or E450 chassis,
THOSE SHOPS ARE WRONG!!!
Sadly, many shops do a "toe and go" on Twin I-Beam Fords, when in fact the adjustable upper ball joint bushings like Ingalls 59400, and other brands, BTW, allow easy adjustment. A truly good truck alignment shop has a large assortment of fixed bushings that they can choose from to get the desired results.
Very possibly the shop doesn't want to fool with a Ford, let alone an RV on Ford. I say that because as a group we RVers are fussy, hard to please, about our rigs. I've been told it's harder work to align a Ford Van than an 18-wheeler tractor.
If you want Hendersons' advice, just call or email. They have a list of shops they've worked with, that think the way they do, and there's likely one relatively close to you.
Some 1980's vintage Fords with fuel injection, had two pumps. A low-pressure in-tank pump supplied a high-pressure pump in the chassis rail.
By your year, a 2000 or 2001 E450, only a high pressure in-tank pump. These pumps do NOT allow fuel to flow through them when they aren't running. In other words, you can't connect an external pump in the middle of the tank-to-engine fuel line and have it draw fuel from a dead pump. If the pump IS bad, tank has to come down, unless there's some clever way to get at the top of the tank from the side or inside the coach.
No ins company will pay $75K for a $25K MH.
Not sure this blanket statement is true. An OP on this forum had a family member wreck a Class A enroute a workcamping assignment. Ins tried several times to repair it. Decided on a total, and paid for a new equivalent coach.
I don't know the details of how the replacement value was set. I can see where somebody buying a coach that was 100,000 new, could insure it for that. If they bought that same coach used for 50,000 I don't know if they could insure for a new replacement.
I'm pretty sure the fix is going to be fairly simple.
You probably CAN fix it, because Yammaha probably has PARTS available. The off-brands, let's say Harbor Fruit, offer nothing for their cheap knockoff versions.
Clicky to Above Page
Link to a Spec Page shows it as single phase 120VAC. Single is good, because you can use its full rated amps capacity as one load, specifically your RV shore tie cable. You'd need a adapter from Twist Lock (generator receptacle) to RV (shore tie plug). Just remember you have 23 Amps Max.
My guess, you could run a 13500 A/C plus your Converter/Charger, lights, radio, stuff like that. I think you'd have to "load shed" by turning A/C off to run the Microwave. You might be able to run Microwave and Toaster/Coffeemaker at once. Or Toaster + Coffeemaker with Converter/Charger.
Yamaha's a great brand. From what I've read here, the Honda generators handle Surge (like A/C startup) a little better than most other brands.
Picking something with a towable manual transmission would reduce the odds of towing damage, but you have to want to shift gears...
If you want to post the make/model of a baseplate you're getting serious about, I'll read the install instructions over, and give you my thoughts on actual difficulty. Sometimes the instructions are more difficult than the actual work.
Anytime I've heard of aligning 1992 and later, all the way to 2017, E-350/450, it's been concentric bushings. The earlier E-Series with Twin-I-Beam like 1975-1991, used Kingpins, not Ball Joints, and I think there was a beveled part that allowed a slight "twist" in how the axle itself was oriented. I've heard of them referred to as "Plates" but not "Shims." A typical double wishbone suspension uses Shims on the Upper Control Arm to change the position of the upper ball joint. But on Twin-I-Beam with Ball Joints, The Bushing changes the position of the upper ball joint.
Would love to see a pic of those beveled parts!