An OP here, went with a 2WD automatic Tacoma because it was what he wanted to have and drive. Added a driveshaft disconnect to make it towable. Loved the Tacoma, hated the Disconnect, traded to get out of it.
It's a shame more nice vehicles aren't towable four down, but those that ARE towable are towable by coincidence, not by plan. Some of the drive lines seem OK, so the manufacturer says OK.
I was ready to buy a manual shift Tacoma in 2009, and the manual stated Not Towable. Not even the manual. Went with Nissan Frontier, manual. In both Tacoma and Frontier 4x4 models, the transfer case does not have Neutral, so none of their automatic transmission trucks are towable. In Frontier, and the 2wd manual and the 4x4 were towable. So was Ranger. Tacoma, nope. Salesman, of course, says, "go ahead, people do it all the time..."
I had a mid 90s E-350 w/460 v8 MH, had exhaust header & front brake problems.
The first exhaust manifolds that I took to a machine shop to be re-surfaced after warping were from a Dodge. Shop tech said "Van, huh?" and I said Yes. Told me the air flow around van (therefore Class C) Doghouses is so limited that they warp more manifolds than other vehicles.
Fast forward to our E350 with a 460 in it. Warped manifolds. Again, I had them re-surfaced. By the way, most cylinder head machines can't do exhaust manifolds. I had to find a shop with a "belt sander." I reassembled with stamped steel gaskets (not the fiber ones), NeverSeez on both sides, and just enough torque to crush the stampings. Left the sheet metal "heat stoves" off and used new bolts. I also replaced the exhaust with a 3" FlowMaster system, which I think carried more heat out the exhaust than OEM did. Never warped again.
I believe we abuse our manifolds if we take a flying dive off the interstate into the nearest fuel island and shut the key off. That is a lot of rapid cooling of manifolds that were as hot as they can get. I think a slow exit, slow approach and a few minutes idling helps with this.
If you're comfortable, the A/C will also be comfortable and work fine. On a lot of the fifth wheels, the A/C is on the downward-sloping rear portion of the roof.
Your refrigerator is more critical, and owner's manual will tell you how far off level is OK.
You shouldn't have to handle the actual "House" aka "Coach" (as opposed to Chassis) Battery. Sure there could be a wire off someplace, but it'd be hard to tell you where to even start looking. Is there a Fuse in the 12-Volt section of your Load Center? Or in the Thermostat? Our Thermostat, that we use for Furnace only, uses two AA batteries, but it's not a factory RV thermostat...
Do your 12-volt-DC items like overhead lights, roof vent fans, work?
I tried to look up 2017 Redhawk Owner's Manual and apparently Jayco doesn't have it online. The 2016 Manual says you DO HAVE an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch), so that explains why microwave works running the generator. If Generator is running, the ATS will supply the coach from the Generator even if the Shore Tie Cable is plugged into a working campsite outlet.
I ask about your lights and fans because you also have a Battery Disconnect Switch. If your A/C has a wall thermostat, it needs Battery Voltage to run the A/C. The A/C, the Furnace, and the Fridge are all like that. They USE 120-volt-AC power (or LP Gas), but they are CONTROLLED by 12-volt-DC.
On our older Jayco, I can plug into Shore Tie, OR run Generator, and still NOT be able to turn the Fridge or Furnace on till I turn the Battery on. (Didn't say A/C because we don't have wall controls. It's like an old window shaker with two knobs, 12-volt-DC not needed.) Just wondering if something like that is going on with you. Make sure Battery is ON, Generator is providing power to something like Microwave, press TEST on your Monitor Panel and see if Battery shows GOOD (should show Charging) and check again.
There's a Breaker on your Generator 30-Amp feeding entire coach through ATS. Also should be a 30A Main and 20A A/C Breaker in your Load Center. The one on the Generator's a little hard to find. Ours is on the side of the panel the Switch is in. But if you can run the Microwave, Generator and Main should be OK. Find the 20A A/C breaker and cycle all the way to Off then back ON.
You should be getting at least FAN on your A/C. If you've interrupted its power, the Compressor (Cooling part) will time out for a few minutes.
Have you called your Dealer or Jayco? I really think the problem is simple, some switch, breaker or setting out of place.
Correct. The chassis builder aligned it during assembly. No coach body on it. So in one way it's loaded when you buy it, but loaded as for travel is the best way to have it aligned.
And if it's a Ford chassis, you need to find somebody who will align not just the Toe setting, but also the Caster and Camber settings. Those two will usually require changing the upper ball joint bushings. That shop should also set CASTER to the high end of the acceptable range. NOT the 3-degree center of the range, more like 5-degrees, bumping toward the 7-degree max.
Have the coils ever been cleaned? If the evaporator coil, under sheet metal on the front end of the unit, is dirty... Condensate can gather and drip inside. Also, ice/frost is very likely to form at LOW fan speed. Avoid Low if it's at all humid.
We have a 2003 Escapade 31A, and the piping diagrams approximate what we have. The Hot Water Bypass valves are at the heater itself, under the kitchen sink. The Low Point Drain valves are inside an outside compartment and that compartment is marked with a label. But sadly, the rest of the valves are on the floor, in a hodgepodge on the kitchen floor. At the bottom of the cabinet under the oven...
I don't think you'll find that convenient, labeled, Utility Center in an Escapade. I downloaded that manual and it FoxIT PDF, the Escapades begin on Page 44.
On our 31A the City Water Inlet is visible on the inside of the outer wall, from that under-oven compartment. Our tank is under the floor, above the axle. Its drain valve is near the City Water Inlet and the overflow is under the coach, near the shower.
If you can find the Fresh Water Tank, see that Inlet, and find the nest of Valves (not counting Water Heater Bypass), you should be able to trace the valve positions to fill the tank. In Florida, I drain the system but don't run antifreeze in a "winterize" process. That means I don't change the valves near the Water Heater, and I don't use the Winterize suction hose either. Find that Winterize suction valve. Should be at the end of a length of hose with nothing on the other end. Meant to stick into a jug of antifreeze, and DON'T open it since you can flood the coach floor.
See if this helps. If it doesn't, find those valves, take a pic and post it. Will try to help.
Anything's "possible" but most of us replace the entire unit if there's trouble in the "sealed system" of Compressor, Evaporator, and in your case Condenser Coils.
I think the only way it could be cost effective would be if you had your own source for refrigerant and parts, and DIY or free labor. At retail for repairs, a whole new machine is probably less expensive.
These units use a capillary expansion tube, easily clogged. So you should add an inline filter/drier ahead of it. Also, the level of charge (amount of refrigerant) is critical. It holds a small amount and won't work efficiently very far above or below that level.
Could help to know the Model Year of the Ford Chassis. Your "1995 Coach" might be on a 1994 Ford Chassis. If it came with an original Owner Manual, the Year on that is probably right. Better, the Build Date on the Ford sticker in the door frame. For example, our "2003 Jayco" is on an E450 where Ford's label says "Date 03/02" making it a 2002 chassis. Parts and wiring could be different.
The diagrams say the Starter "Relay" is in the Left side of the Engine Compartment. On ours, the Relay is on the Passenger Side, all but hidden by the Battery. It looks like two massive posts (From Battery and To Starter) and a single small terminal that a connector simply pushes onto. That wire should go HOT when you turn the Key to Start. If you put +12 to that little terminal on the Relay, it should close and operate the Starter.
That's a correction to my earlier reference to the Yellow Wire. If it's onto that little Push Terminal, it's the one that tells the Relay to Power the Starter. I had thought there was another wire, on the Battery Post of the Relay, that was the power feed to the rest of the chassis.
We've recently seen Ford OEM battery cables that lost contact within the terminals. Looked good but didn't work...
If it's killing "House" (also called "Coach") batteries, as MEX said, that's an additional system, additional problem. If you aren't disconnecting that Battery in Storage, some parasitic drain (like LPG detector) could be running it down. If you leave it plugged into shore power in storage, your Converter/Charger could be boiling the battery.
Haven't towed one, but the manual says towable with Transmission in Neutral and Key in Accessory.
Just saying, but it sounds to me like bearing damage could stem from towing with the Steering Column LOCKED, not in ACC.
Would also expect rubber scrubbed off the front tires. What do they look like?
Snippet from 2010 Malibu Owner's Guide follows:
To dinghy tow the vehicle from the front with all four
wheels on the ground:
1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it to the
2. Shift the transmission to P (Park) and turn the
ignition to LOCK/OFF.
3. Set the parking brake.
4. To prevent the battery from draining while the
vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse
from the instrument panel fuse block: (IGN SENSOR).
See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 6 ? 105 for more information.
5. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY.
6. Shift the transmission to N (Neutral).
7. Release the parking brake.
Remember to reinstall the IGN SENSOR fuse once the
destination has been reached.
You need a supplemental braking system for the Jeep. It can be built into the Jeep. It can also be a "box" like Brake Buddy or Patriot.
OR... I can be built into the Tow Bar, such as Ready Brute Elite. It can be ordered with the connectors (they call them "clevis") for various base plates including Blue Ox.
I have several ignition system/wiring pages scanned from my Haynes Manual. If you want me to send them to you, send me a Private Message with your eMail ID.
I also have diagrams for 1996 of the Starting and Charging systems, from one of the professional sources.
From what I see, what I remember, there are heavy cables into (from battery positive) and out of (to starter motor) that Starter Relay (fender mounted "solenoid"). AND a smaller wire that feeds into the ignition switch. Yellow in the diagram I looked at. Be sure it's on the Battery terminal of that Solenoid, NOT on the Starter terminal.
50A RV service is 50A 120/240V split phase service, so each leg is limited to 50A. It can supply a theoretical maximum of 12 kW, compared to 3.6 kW for 30A 120V RV service.
Which is why Fifty-Amp RV Service is really a Big Deal!
Ron, it took me awhile to understand that as well. 50A is close to four times what 30 can deliver.
Many 30A breakers in campgrounds get "weak" and trip way below rating. Often, using a 50>>30 a-Dapter (expressed in respect to Johnny Cash, called "adapter" by anybody else...) will get you onto a breaker that won't trip before the 30A main in your 30A coach will.
Drew mentioned split phase. One of those paired 50A breakers is on one phase and the other is on the opposite. This is like your house. So some campgrounds have "Fake 50"where the two breakers are actually on the same phase.
If I remember, there's a voltage regulator ON the back of the Cluster. It may have failed. At least find it, pull it, and clean its contacts to the Cluster.
Also, try to figure out where the Cluster itself is Grounded and verify it's good.
There's a recent post here about false over temp readings, and it was a cluster problem. Look through recent activity here in Class C and you should be able to find it. That OP might have suggestions.
I know the Ammeter in our 1983 E350 went out. I didn't research it. Installed a voltmeter and relied on that. I don't think it uses that Regulator, but if I recall, the three you mention (Fuel and Temp) do.
It'd be good if you posted the full model number of the Mach 15, and a picture of the capacitor area.
On our 2002 Mach 15, a Start Kit was apparently a factory option and Jayco got it that way. Has a Relay-controlled Start Assist. RVP now says their current model Mach 15 is standard with hard start, but they use a PTCR device in place of the relay. If there's already a start kit, you can't add one on top of it.
The SUPCO SPP6 uses PTCR. The SPP6e is "electroncically controlled" and is supposed to be equivalent to an OEM Relay setup.
Here's where it gets interesting. Chris Bryant, one of our resident service tech gurus, recommends SPP6e. SUPCO recommends SPP6, and I found their explanation of why. Their tech says the "e" series will take the start assist capacitor (usually round black plastic case, 88-108 mfd) out of circuit too quickly. Not giving the generator time to react to the starting load of the A/C. That's SUPCO's position.