Yeah, it's a Heat Shield. They turn up in various places. Catalytic Converters render the exhaust much hotter than it was in the old days. To look at the pic you posted, having one at the edge of what's essentially a Plastic Body is a great idea.
Is that SunSeeker gonna be yours? Looks good. For the record, although both of our C's have been on Ford, I'd be very glad to have a Chevy platform. More cab room, better ride, better tracking, youbetcha! Now with a Six-Speed, even better!
Please provide a link or clicky to where this story begins. I feel like I missed the first 30 mins of a movie.
If the pictured relay is part of the vehicle, it probably works with another one like it to electrically reverse the permanent magnet (two-wire) window motors. Imagine putting two wires onto battery terminals. Motor runs one way. Switch the wires. Motor runs the other way. It takes two relays to accomplish that and both have to be good for the motor to run.
Sounds like you had a good time and the door latch failure didn't discourage you. You probably have a TriMark latch, a certain model, that has a cheap pot-metal part which breaks and locks you in/out. Search function will reveal it.
Hopefully Sonny's knows where to drill it from the outside so it can be opened, then removed, replaced.
It's happened here before, and somebody'll probably have more details.
Our 2003 coach has an Attwood/Wedgewood stove and NO thermocouple on the Oven Pilot. It will flow propane as soon as set to Pilot, and will continue after the pilot blows out.
In addition to the gas leakage risk, this is part of why I haven't installed electronic ignition on our range. Scenario: Oven Pilot is Lit but goes Out unnoticed. Chef presses the electronic button to light a surface burner. Electronic sparks the three surface burners AND the oven, which is flooded with Propane. I don't want to have to write the final line in this process...
How long have you been in this coach?
Has it gotten worse?
Or are you just getting tired of it?
The OEM shocks ride pretty well, but don't last long, so
How many miles on the coach?
The advice to weigh it and adjust the tire pressures it spot on. Best place to start.
CAT Truck Scales and Locator
Michelin's Weight/Inflation Chart works for other tire brands, so long as you match the tire's specs including load range to the table. Note that Front and Rear are different AND that the Michelin table uses Corner Weights, not Axle Weights. So on most scales you have to double Michelin's numbers to match say a CAT scale weight since you can't get each corner onto their scales.
Hopefully you won't need full "sidewall" pressure of 80PSI per rear tire. That would mean the rear axle was at capacity. Compare GAWR REAR with twice the Michelin max and you'll see that.
Likewise, you should not have More Than 65PSI in the front tires. Why? Because the GAWR Front (label in driver's door jamb) is 5000LB and that's what the tires it should have come with work out to at 65PSI Single Application.
Best thing most of us can do for Ride and Tracking is to set Front Tire Pressure to what the Load calls for.
Personally, Mrs and I don't sweat the ride or the noise. Part of that, we don't drive luxury vehicles as daily drivers. Another part is that we pound around in boats a lot. Finally, as eloquently stated above (crude, boxy, rattly) we accept our coach for what it is. Like a person, it does many things well, and some not so well.
I've bought a lot of boat trailer brake parts from Eastern Marine and they have lots of RV trailer brake parts as well. That includes complete brakes (backing plate, shoes, coils, adjusters, etc etc as described above. The put out specials, and there's a Cyber Monday discount today.
1. Shipment: I looked at uship(dot)com and like many they wanted me to provide more info to "set up an account" before they would price my shipment. I contacted three sites that required little to no information and of those I chose Freight Management Logistics. They handled everything. Provided an accurate quote by looking up the exact ICC description of what I was shipping, Scheduled carrier pickup, Issued Bill of Lading, Tracked Shipment. Picked up noon Monday, available to me morning of Wednesday. Price was $50 less than second best, half what another online quoted me, and just a little over half what a carrier quoted direct. I wholeheartedly recommend FML. The Carrier (R+L) forklifted the shipment into the bed of my pickup, but I had to sign a waiver. They expect to load/unload from a dock.
2. SuperCoils: Our Jayco's front axle is at its full GAWR of 4600, so I wanted an axle and springs rated 5000 to provide a little reserve. Also sits nose low so I wanted the lift offered by SuperCoils. Our friends at SD Truck Springs had the be price. Phone call said they're "in stock" but that turned out to be the Special Order Springs are In Stock at the manufacturer in California. That made it an item not eligible for the free shipping SD offers on many items. But they had a coupon that gets most of the shipping back. From what I'm told, removing one end of the shock absorber should let the axle drop enough that the spring will tip out of its pockets. I believe the Hellwig sway bar might hold the axle back and have to be disconnected also.
3. 594 Bushings: Might not always have been this way, but adjustable offset bushings aren't recommended for RVs, commercial trucks, and modified chassis. I'll re-use the offset bushings I have and let the alignment shop provide new fixed ones if needed.
Hope y'all had a great Thanksgiving.
I wonder if it's a grounding issue. Something just loose enough that warming or vibration lowers the resistance of the loose connection and gets things back to normal.
Years ago, we had a Dodge van. Old enough to have a headlight dimmer "button" on the floorboard. It was held in by two sheet metal screws and the instrument cluster ground was held down by one of them. That screw worked loose and strange things happened to gauge readings.
Problem, I think a wiring diagram is schematic, not pictorial, so it will show that there IS a Ground, but won't say WHERE the Ground is made up.
We accidently turned our Attwood/Wedgewood on by bumping it. The easiest, cheapest fix I've heard of is to get a paint stirring stick from the paint store. Cut notches partway across, corresponding to the knob shafts. Drop in place behind the knobs. Will prevent them from being pressed past their detent so they can't turn.
I've had that problem on what I'll call "keyed" (as opposed to slide-bolted) calipers. Yours are probably a little heavier than mine were on Ford E-Series. I found that if I could get my knee against the side of the caliper opposite the hub and bear against it, it'd stay close enough to work on. You need to get it into actual position before you reach for the key or it won't start into place.
If you can squeeze the caliper toward the centerline of the axle, it'll want to support itself once you get it into its slides.
Perhaps you could rig a bungee cord around caliper and hub.
Don't trifle with a failing Chassis Battery. Neighbor just loaned his Class A (on Ford F-53 with V10) to a friend. Friend got to the storage lot and found the battery very low. Kept trying to crank it. I don't know if he even knew the coach (probably) has start assist from the House Batteries, but the Starter Motor and Starter Solenoid both had to be replaced that day. I suspect that permanent magnet starter took a dim view of low cranking voltage and threw in the towel.
We had an 84 Holiday, among the best built C's of the era. Aluminum frame, roof and siding. 83 Ford E350 (460 engine) ran well with few problems at just over 100,000 miles. Handled better on the road than our 03 Class C. ONLY reason we sold it was that at 24-ft it did not have a "bed down" and we were reluctant to climb a ladder to the cabover several times a night.
The last of the Rangers, so long as they have a way to get into Neutral, is probably the best bet in a compact truck for toad. The darn things just ride hard and the suspension's not the best. But as a little truck, they're really good. We wanted an extended cab, and the way the options worked on Ranger, getting the Frontier (all of which have been built with extended cab since the mid-2000's) seemed like the better choice. As a Driver/Traveler, absolutely. As a Utility/Toad, not so much. By 2009, when we bought ours, the Frontier, Tacoma, and Colorado/Sonoma had all gone "mid size."
BTW, if you like Cold A/C, I've never experienced Colder than a standard cab Ranger!
The wiring setup you want is the middle one in ScottG's post above. It uses BOTH hot legs from your house panel. The one on the left is only 30A and the one on the right's sometimes called "Fake Fifty" since it powers both terminals from only one leg, like the 30A.
The "puck" adapters really do burn out easily. I've never cut one apart to see how it's built. My thought till that explanation came in was... The Prongs get hot at the wall socket, and the Terminals get hot at the RV shore tie Prongs. The two sets are so close together the puck can't do much but get hot and burn out.
Very likely this RV uses the ONAN MicroQuiet 4000 genset, which has a generator-mounted Start/Stop switch, along with a master circuit breaker right next to it. The coach builder no doubt put a remote Start/Stop panel inside as well.
First, make sure the Coach/House Battery (not the one that starts the Road Engine) is There, that it's Charged, Connected, and Turned ON. Then if genny won't crank from inside, see if it'll crank from the switch on the genny itself.
Circuit Breaker won't keep it from cranking, but might figure in if you get it started but don't have power to the coach's outlets.
If you in fact get it running, next step is to find out how the coach gets powered from the genny. Many have an Auto Transfer Switch (ATS) but others have an outlet powered by the generator that you must plug your shore tie cable into.