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RE: Air Conditioner slows down and then speeds up

An RV A/C MUST have two Capacitors. One is FAN RUN and the other is COMPRESSOR RUN. Fan and Compressor won't start, won't run, without the respective Capacitor. Compressor MAY also have a Start Assist Kit consisting of a Capacitor and a Control of some kind for it. It seems most Coleman units do, and your Model Number indicates it does, or at least started out with it installed. So... Compressor RUN Capacitor is a possible suspect. Also, have you cleaned he coils? And, do you have Air Baffles under the Shroud, along the edges of the Condenser Coil? Those keep hot discharge air from being pulled back into the air intake side of that coil.
j-d 07/24/17 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Front rotors on E450 Chassis

Brake job on 2003 E450 I FF'd through that linked YouTube. Now THAT E450 NEEDED a Brake Job. Notice it's a Box Truck. Far worse abuse than we give our RV's. Note on the Calipers mounted upside down, bleeder down not up. Our new brakes, from a 2012 E450, have bleeders on both ends of the calipers. The Pads have to go in just right, but the Calipers now mount to either side. VERY WISE on Ford's part. Only one part number now. Still different Hoses though, for Right and Left. You may not have heard this, but starting in 2008, every E150, E250 and single wheel E350 uses the same Brakes and Axles. Actually the E450 and DRW E350 do too. The Hubs and therefore Rotor Assemblies differ according to single or dual wheels. Different springs are used according to weight ratings, but the axles and spindles are all the same.
j-d 07/24/17 08:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Front rotors on E450 Chassis

1,000 miles down the road went to exit off the interstate and NO brakes, it was the brake lines. Sounds to me like the mechanic may have mistreated your brake hoses during the brake work. How? Well, every manual tells us to support the Caliper by tying it up, using wire or cord. Common sense tells us not to twist the hose while removing, tying or reinstalling the Caliper. How many are that careful, and how many "stick it someplace." Then it falls, weight of the caliper jerking the hose and straining the connector crimps? Friend was having front end work done at one of the big tire company stores. Firestone, Goodyear, I forget with. A BRAKE HOSE was supporting the disassembled suspension, against coil spring pressure. Stretched tight as a bow string.
j-d 07/24/17 07:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hellwig helper. Springs

He stated that if the coach leaned to one side or the other when the tanks were full to adjust that sides helper springs more to try and even out the coach. From what I read on Hellwig's site, their helpers provide side-to-side "load leveling" which makes sense, since front-to-rear leveling would imply going above the rated capacity of the springs and axle. We sit a little tail-high, so help definitely not needed at the rear. The side-to-side seems right or close to it. A full black tank would load the right side down, but we don't run with it full anyway.
j-d 07/24/17 07:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Front rotors on E450 Chassis

One of our OP's documented an E450 brake job and I want to say he was out around 80,000 miles. At 19,000 I doubt it needs anything on brakes. Let along ball joints etc. By pulling the wheels, you should be able to see enough of the Pads to determine the thickness and that they're worn evenly to the thicknesses you can see. And you can see if the rotor surfaces are blued from overheating, or scored from trapped pebbles, etc. I wouldn't even pull the rotors if they look OK. Cope with Caliper Brackets some other day. If anything goes wrong with the brakes at this coach's age and mileage, it'll be stuck calipers or collapsed hoses. Calipers DO NOT always stick on the slides, as often mentioned. The pistons can also get sticky and not allow the brakes to release. That happened to me on our E450 several years ago at about 30,000 miles. It hadn't had much use for a couple years before we bought it.
j-d 07/24/17 12:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bilstein shocks

DW and I value Control over Comfort, so when we want shocks we'll get HD Bilsteins. The Henderson's Line Up people promote the FSD's and they don't sell higher priced stuff (vs say Bilstein, Monroe, Rancho) to get a couple more bucks. We had an OP who had FSD's installed there and wasn't impressed by the shocks. We don't know what this OP's expectations were, and he hasn't been back. Beyond that, most FSD reviews by our OP's have been favorable. But me, I'll stick with OFDPOS on this one. He has a lot of automotive experience, and he likes things RIGHT.
j-d 07/24/17 10:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Front rotors on E450 Chassis

To change Pads and Calipers ONLY, Very Easy. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm Loosen Lugs, Jack Up, Support Axle on Stands/Jacks, Remove Wheel Pry the Caliper inboard so it compresses the Piston, Loosening the Pads Remove Caliper Slide Bolts, may be hex nuts or internal TORX Prepare Brake Line Caps. I used short pieces of wiper hose with a golf tee in the end Disconnect Hose at Chassis and Cap Immediately, unclip Hose from ABS wire, use a Tubing Wrench to Loosen and Tighten the Hose Fitting Lift Caliper, Hose and Pads off the Caliper Mounting Bracket Replace ALL those Parts, Hose Included Apply Brake Lubricant such as https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51JzPoUb2RL._AC_US218_.jpg width=250 Reassemble Siphon brake fluid out of Master Cylinder till Reservoir is almost BUT NOT empty, then FILL with NEW Fluid Bleed Brakes NEVER ALLOWING MASTER CYLINDER TO GO EMPTY!!! Reinstall Wheel, set on Ground, Torque Nuts to 140 Only moderate braking till Pads settle in To remove ROTORS, you need a 21mm socket/wrench, 13/16" may fit if you get all the rust off the bolt heads, 7/8" SIX Point may also work, and they are TIGHT, about the same as those Wheel Nuts at 140 Remove Caliper Bracket Bolts and Bracket, then Dust Cap and Bearing Nuts/Bearings/Seals etc to re-pack your Bearings If you need to Re-Surface or to Replace your ROTORS, I suggest you find late model take-off parts from a 4x4 conversion outfit. The parts will cost no more than a "complete" brake job of Rotors, Bearings, Hoses, Calipers, and Pads. You get all-new, Bigger and Better Brakes that are Plug and Play. I didn't even re-pack the Bearings. Nearest to you is UJoint in Fletcher NC near I-26 about 20 miles your side of Asheville. E350 and E450 dual rear wheel vehicles "donate" the same front brakes. I got my "kit" from Quigley Motors in central PA, and I got axles and all. That provides all-new Ball Joints, Bushings, and an upgraded Radius Arm design. They crated it and I arranged shipping. The palletized carton weight 400 lb and fit in my compact pickup.
j-d 07/24/17 10:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Jayco new owner hot water heater issue help!!

I'm glad to hear ALL valves were open! If the valves were still in "winterize" mode, you'd be trying to heat water that wasn't there. An empty water heater tank. That will burn out an electric element, and depending on make/model, operate the Energy Cut Off (ECO) device. The ECO will shut off the LP Gas if that's in use, or open the electric element circuit if it's in the electric mode. Some ECO's can be re-set. BUT!!! Other ECO's are "One Time" meaning it has to be replaced for the heater to operate again. No cool-down re-set or manual re-set. We had an Atwood Gas-Only water heater where he One Time ECO was part of the LPG Valve/Thermostat assembly. Part is around $100 and not all that easy to replace. So... If you ever have to Winterize, You'll set the valves accordingly then remove the Drain Plug (Atwood) or Anode Rod (Suburban) to drain the tank so freezing won't burst it. Have a Spring Check List so you get the heater FULL of water again before powering it up.
j-d 07/24/17 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: Hellwig helper. Springs

Curious issue... I tried to look up some official (as from Hellwig) install instructions and didn't find them. Hellwig is easy enough to call, and they have a tech support shop. There are also a few YouTube videos. My curious part... Our used 2003 Escapade 31A, had a Hellwig Warranty Card in the owner's manual pack. But no designation what the warranty was for... No Hellwig parts visible. Years later, I noticed the Brochure said 31A came with Hellwig Helper Springs. Went back again, and looked. No trace of such. No Springs, No Brackets, No Marks. I can only presume they were either installed and later removed, or ...never actually installed...
j-d 07/24/17 06:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Chassis 2001 Fleetwood Tioga newbrakes locking .HELP

Thought it must be E450 since you mentioned Rear Pads and Rotors. The E350 didn't get rear disc till a few years later. To navegator's point about ABS - I've done a goodly amount of brake work on our 2002 E450 chassis but have NOT replaced the Master Cylinder. Only Calipers and Hoses. I was able to flush and bleed the system by siphoning the Reservoir to Empty but NOT the chambers and didn't step on the brake till the Reservoir was full of new fluid. Then I bled the calipers, being careful to never let the Reservoir go dry and put air into the chambers. I this kept the ABS unit "wet" through the process. My understanding is that it requires a special scanner to analyze the ABS, and even to bleed the system if it gets air in it. The possibility of binding brake pedal pivot or linkage is real. I haven't seen it since an old Dodge we had, but doesn't mean it can't happen. IF IF IF the pedal doesn't return to fully released position, then those little pointed ports won't be open to the Reservoir to let the pressure escape and brakes will remain applied.
j-d 07/23/17 06:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Chassis 2001 Fleetwood Tioga newbrakes locking .HELP

Which Ford Chassis is this Coach on? E350? or E450?
j-d 07/23/17 03:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Chassis 2001 Fleetwood Tioga newbrakes locking .HELP

Your brake master cylinder is actually two cylinders in one, with a common fluid reservoir. One cylinder applies front brakes and the other applies rear, both when you step on the brake. Each cylinder has an inlet port to get its fluid from the reservoir. It has an outlet that goes to its respective front or rear brakes. It ALSO has a little VENT port, to make sure any fluid returning from the brake, when you release it, gets back into the reservoir and does NOT leave that brake applied. It's only a pinhole, and I've had one "heal up" with corrosion. It would slow the car down on the open road. One time it stopped the car. When I got out, both front wheels were like walking past BBQ grills. Replacing hoses is a good idea, and it's good you did it. But in this case, I agree with others. I agree that it's a common problem source, and I've actually had it be a plugged port in the Master Cylinder. I fixed it after two dis-assemblies. First time I missed it. Second time I saw that a little "spot" in one cylinder chamber matched a little hole in the other. A wire wouldn't poke through. I used a small "number drill" and ran a hone over the bore surface. That was to make sure I hadn't created a burr to nick the sealing surface of the rubber piston cup. Found you a diagram to show what I'm talking about. https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-e18bd2d7bd43b37d442004238783bde0 width=480 The Pink and the Green Chambers/Circuits have two passages each, coming down from the Reservoir. Notice how the RIGHT one in each pair is drawn coming to a point at the bottom. That represents the pinhole that I think is blocked in this RV's master cylinder. If that hole is NOT open, pressure can remain in that brake circuit. The hotter the brake gets, the more the fluid expands, the more unintended apply pressure goes to the brake calipers. BOTH of them.
j-d 07/23/17 03:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Researching Class C Motorhomes

DaCrema and Ron, we were looking at 2007 or newer but will change that to 2008 or newer. We definitely want the Ford chassis The Coach Builder assigns the Model Year. We have owned two Class C's A "1984" that was on a 1983 Chassis. Had the Chassis ALSO been 1984, it would have been easy to upgrade the Wheels. A "2003" that's on a 2002 Chassis. So far I haven't found that the year difference makes a difference. BUT!!! 2008 Chassis makes a BIG difference. Styling, Interior, and above all for me, BRAKES. Tow/Haul (5-speed automatic) vs OD Off (4-speed overdrive) IS important. That change is earlier. I forget how many years, I think 2004 or -05
j-d 07/22/17 04:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Brake job on E450

Class C RV is an odd sort. It's a local delivery chassis carrying a heavy load. So, for things like oil changes, it's "severe duty." But in my opinion, they aren't that hard on brakes. Oh, then can be, downhill stops in the mountains and stuff like that, but how many of us are doing that? We drive a few miles on local streets and secondary highways. Then a couple hundred on limited access interstates, turnpikes, freeways, before a few street level miles to the campground. So I'm with the group that says "Probably NOT Worn Out." Our pads weren't bad, 35000 on the coach, when a caliper stuck and overheated a front brake. This is a big plus for Class C: Local chain store auto supply had Pads, Calipers, Hoses, all on hand. I changed the offending corner at the campground and the other when we got home. But... Several trips later, I noticed the rust pattern that forms on rotors overnight, was NOT being uniformly burnished off by the new Pads. I also hadn't taken the rotors off (caliper mounting bracket bolts called for a breaker bar I didn't have along) and had them re-surfaced. Most of the time, I don't replace or re-surface rotors that "look good." A previous Class C on E350 didn't stop well at all and I decided on new rotors hoping they'd help and did not. If a Class C on a Ford E-Series chassis 1992-2007, late model 2008+ brakes are THE WAY to brakes worthy of that 14050 pounds. We just drove I-4 from Daytona to Disney. With lane shifts, traffic, inattentive tourists and aggressive locals, we used all the brakes we had. The new brakes are not only bigger diameter. The pad material is thicker, tougher, rotors thicker with bigger vents, and calipers of course have bigger pistons. Those "new" Ford brakes work better than upgraded Pads. Better than Frozen, Drilled, Slotted, whatever, Rotors.
j-d 07/22/17 03:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Bilstein shocks

You may want to wait a couple weeks or so before making a Bilstein/Koni decision. We have an OP who's put Bil's on two former Class C's and is now installing Koni FSD's on a third coach. There just might be some useful comments forthcoming.
j-d 07/22/17 08:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Brake Buddies, BrakePro, raodmaster, evenbrake ???

Brake Buddy Vantage Select works perfectly for me. I like ours, and the Proportional mode takes the jerkiness out of the stopping. That said, part of the appeal of Brake Buddy (and any other "brake in a box) was that we had two toads and could use one system with only an extra wiring kit. If you have a toad, ONE toad, and plan to be out with it a lot, I'd say get something you don't have to remove to be able to get aboard and drive. BB is a good brand, so I'd keep their unit called Stealth on the candidate list. Which tow bar do you have now? There are Blue Ox models you can add surge braking to, and another brand offers a surge brake add-on, plus a tow bar incorporating that feature.
j-d 07/21/17 01:17am Dinghy Towing
RE: Roof air conditioners

Assuming to install 2 a/c units, you would have to have 50amp service?? If they're of any size, (BTU's), then YES. The option of two 11,000 units, just thinking without checking, would not run both on 30A. Two 8,000's? Sure, but WHY? There are Load Shedding devices, but they mean two won't run at once. And I'm sure two 13,500 units won't run on 30A. Friend had a 33-ft Class A that was 30A shore tie and a 5500 Watt Genset. Could run two A/C on the Genset, but only one on Shore Tie.
j-d 07/20/17 09:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner for Class C - upgrade?

No simple solutions. Thermostat requires a control box/board that the ones with two knobs up on the unit do not have. You'd have to add that, install a thermostat, but remember, you also have to run the wiring, unless Winne laid it in when that option wasn't actually in place.
j-d 07/20/17 07:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Modification yet

For Dually Valves (aka BORG), Camping World has them at a good price but I don't know if they carry the full line. For On Line, key DuallyValve.Com and it diverts to the "yourtireshopsupply" site.
j-d 07/20/17 06:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: E450 questions

Funny but both e40d and 4r100 both use the same filter. Dextron has got $$$$! First, I'd expect same filter in the two models. They aren't that different. Wonder if an old C6 uses that one too... DEXRON? Please be sure of the fluid spec. My recall (and I did NOT just look it up again, so check...) is Mercon 5
j-d 07/19/17 06:42pm Class C Motorhomes
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