You need somebody to figure out if a new "upper" can work with your "lower." Remember what I mentioned before. Most of these A/C units now seem to be sold as Upper (Rooftop, Compressor, Coils, etc.) and Lower.
That needs figured out before you do any shopping. My Guess, and it's only a Guess, that a Ducted system like yours requires a different Upper than the kind you mentioned. The Ductless one on sale, controls on the unit.
I can only suppose there could be thermostat/control issues too. If you could get an upper to match existing lower, and only needed a different thermostat, wouldn't that be a good fix?
anyone ever use a portable AC in their RV?
I've seen a few threads about portables. You mean free standers with temporary window ducts, right?
Do you want to give up the space, storage, and arrange the window vents? I personally would not.
Also remember, RV A/C units are maxed out "window" units in the sense that they produce much more BTU and still run on 110-volts, than home window units do. This means a portable could be 6000-btu while the smallest RV rooftop is 8000 or more. The common size is what you have now, 13500.
And... RV's are very poorly insulated. A 5000 btu window shaker might cool a room in your house but not your RV even with the same square footage.
Velvac designed the arm so that the wiring goes through the center of the pivot. Another method could be used, but would require a way to get the wires into the door.
Velvac told me that the spring in the door is very strong. They use a hydraulic press for the assembly. Some type of threaded connection with lots of threads might hold.
YES SIR! My original plan was 5/8" threaded rod. Partly 'cause I have several pieces laying around, partly because another thread shows a caliper reading 0.62??-inch something. Plan was to epoxy a piece in the hole. Then I checked the OD of 3/8" pipe and it's right around the 5/8" size too. Actually took the pieces to Home Depot and found 3/8" pipe was just a tad big. I didn't want to include "drill out to 21/32" even if I happened to have that bit because most of us probably don't. Now that I know the INSIDE of that pivot is tapered along with the outside, I know that all it'll take is a few minutes with a round file go get a pipe nipple in place.
Using a 1/2" bolt was just TOO tempting, especially when I found the taper let me drive a nut into the top of the taper and put the pivot back in.
I didn't use a vise on any of this, but I found out it took some pretty good twist with a 3/4" box wrench to compress that spring. I imagine that's part of why Velvac won't provide repair parts. It'd be a bargain for them to send a $25 repair kit (new Pivot) and we pay NAPA or somebody $25 to press it in place. But I'd bet Velvac is worried that some of us'd try to press it with some home made ginny and ending up eating a flying spring.
The bolt is "proof of concept" and next step is 3/8" pipe. Part of the problem right now is I didn't see a simple "nut" in that size. It was either a threaded cap or threaded union.
Bolt taught me just how much compression that spring calls for, so both Nipple and Nut have to have enough thread, and GOOD thread, to pull the thing together. It takes about 1/2" of actual compression to pull the spring into position. That's OK, but it's gonna mean that a solution with the threaded piece epoxied in, will mean the plastic cap can't go back on. For me, practicality outweighs perfection, so a repaired one, stronger than new, at minimal cost, would more than offset seeing a fastener and loop of wire I'd have to go out of my way to see.
But, CD, when I think "perfection" I think of how you've documented things like that rear brake job with pix and text. If YOU were looking over my shoulder with a camera, this thread would look SO much better...
Well, friends, I tried it. Our friend IMICHABOD gave me his broken pieces, so I got a chance to try my idea. Two things:
1. This mirror wasn't Heated/Powered/Illuminated, so I used a BOLT for this trial run.
2. I wanted to use tools and techniques any of us ought to be able to duplicate. No fair taking it to a buddy's machine shop.
The piece the retainer edge broke off of is tapered. It's attached to the body mount with four Allen Head screws. Also means Velvac could ship that out as a repair part, but anyhow... Removed the four screws with 5/32" Allen Wrench. Velvac used Loctite RED, an assembly-grade product. A little tough getting them to break loose, but I have an alternate plan for that. I found that a 1/2" hex nut will tap down into that taper from the top. Getting it to line up with a bolt centered up from the bottom is a little touchy.
You can see in the first pic, where I whitened three places:
1. Alignment marks from tapered pivot to body mount; 2. Tab on body mount to prevent Arm from swinging too far folded and hitting body, 3. Last little bit of the retaining edge. Shows from about 2:00 to 5:00 position in the pic. This should go all the way around. Note: The 1/2" nut is already in place down in the taper, you can see the hole and hex edges here.
Broken Pivot showing Allen Screws
Next pic is the assembly drawn back together. I put a 3/4" flat washer on top of Velvac's retainer and a 1/2" flat washer on top of the 3/4" to keep the bolt head from passing through it. The 1/2" washer bottoms on the pivot where the retaining edge broke off. This puts the original retainer where it originally was, so the mirror can be folded yet should stay extended on the road.
Last pic looks into the back side of the body mount where you can see the top of the 1/2" nut I tapped into the tapered hole of the pivot, and the upper end of a 1/2" by 3" hex head bolt up from the bottom, where the spring is compressed. Threaded end of bolt is sticking out of the nut by about the amount the spring had to be compressed, about 1/2"
Nut and Bolt Threads
After removing from Vehicle, tools needed: 5/32" Allen; 3/4" wrench or socket; flat and round files (remove what's left of retaining edge, slightly enlarge 3/4" washer hole to fit over the filed-down retaining groove); hammer to tap nut into tapered hole in pivot
Bill of materials: 1/2" bolt, 3 or 3-1/2" long; 1/2" nut and flat washer; 3/4" or 7/8" flat washer" tube of Loctite Blue... Hardware should be under $5.00, about $5.00 more for Loctite
Having problems linking pix from flickR. You can click on the links and the pix will open.
JENSEN setup. Never seen one, Doug's Da Man! Seems your AM/FM Radio should be working, off the Jensen Plate, whether Antenna Power is functioning or not. I downloaded the Manual. Thanks for linking it!
RoyB's pic shows a Winegard "Wing Man" attached to the head of his batwing antenna head. That part is a huge help on older versions of the antenna.
IF you have one of the older ones, you Want, NEED actually, to add one of those. Newer versions have that capability built in. What happened when OTA TV went Digital was the common "old" VHF channels 2-13 were actually assigned to new frequencies UHF 14 and up. Channel 7 isn't actually VHF-7 anymore. Just looks that way because computers and software make it look so.
Anyhow, Wingman greatly enhances the earlier Batwing's ability to get those UHF channels.
Be sure there's space on the roof to let the antenna fold into Travel Position before you order a Wingman.
PLEASE post a detailed report on what you find, what you do, and we'll try to help further.
RoyB just created a new High Water Mark in explaining and posting info about that Winegard "plate..." What it Is, Does, and how it's Wired.
Has your TV setup always been like this, or has the situation changed recently?
Any recent work done on it?
You say "fuse on it" --- Where?
Please note that the "ON" mode is ONLY for OTA (Off the Air aka Antenna) reception. It makes "Park" or "Cable" picture SNOWY.
Our coach's TV cabling was seriously cobbed by previous owners so the two of them could watch different programs using separate satellite receivers. Holes through the outside walls (and not sealed!) plus extra cable along inside walls and the connections on the back of that "Plate" rearranged.
I had just unscrambled a TV cabling mess created on a Winnebago VIEW by a "professional" using Winnie's on line wiring diagrams and help from a very sharp coach owner. Figured I could surely clean ours up after all that. Dug out the diagram RoyB served out so beautifully above, and went after it. Done in an hour.
Be sure the "plate" has power, light up on OTA (ON) mode.
Go up and disconnect coax cable at antenna head. Should have 12VDC up there. If No, replace Plate. If Yes, the electronics in the antenna head could be shot.
Your antenna cabling can be tested for continuity. Disconnect both ends. Short one end, jacket to core. Then read the other end, jacket to core. Should be Short, Zero Ohms.
RoyB's right about the Radio, too. It seems you have a Trailer, so there should be a separate antenna. Hard to see in his pic, but the indoor end simply pushes into place in its connections. You may have to work your way to the back of the radio to check this. Be sure any extenders/adapters that have been used, are also plugged tight.
I think it's possible the E450 uses rear springs that are arched opposite of what we usually think. Somebody here may be able to explain that. I mention it now because I am not sure that an E450 spring that is not bowed DOWN has collapsed. Till you have an understanding, don't replace springs on their appearance alone.
You have a 20-HP twin cylinder Magnum engine, not a Confidant. Here's the Manual Link. Page 9.6 shows the Starter Motor, which can be Inertia Drive (gear simply spins out) or Solenoid Drive(starter solenoid physically engages the gear). There's a good chance the Drive is just dirty or rusty. This can happen with either type. Also, if the Inertia Type is like I had on an outboard, the friction material inside can fail. It tries to engage but doesn't transfer any starter torque to the flywheel.
Facing the blower housing of the motor, Starter is on Lower Left. So, if your Generator is mounted in a compartment with the Engine part to the Left end of that compartment, the Starter will be hiding down and away from you.
I downloaded the manual, so if you for some reason cannot, send me a Private Message with your email ID and I'll send it.
This page at DB Electrical just might be your starter, under $50 for a new one. The lookup didn't show M20 (Magnum 20HP) but the listing for the M18 starter includes M20.
Please help us try to help you. What IS your Model Number? From what I could see on that second link (above) the Confidant series is a vertical shaft V-Twin engine of 19-25HP, Model Numbers ZT710, ZT720, ZT730, ZT740. Any of this make sense for you? Looks like a mower engine to me...
Hate to welcome a new member by suggesting take the problem somewhere else, but... We have only a few generator guys, and smokstak.com has a Kohler section.
Always include full Model and any sub-series codes from the nameplate. And, please come back to RV.net and spend some time with us!
Found 2015 Colorado Owner's Manual. Page 10-78 "Dinghy Towing" says 2WD are not towable four down. But Page 10-81 says OK to tow Rear-UP if you immobilize the steering wheel with a clamp designed for towing. For Tow Truck use, I presume. They tell you to put the key in lock/off, but they want you to secure the wheel with that external device.
I'm surprised, but that's what Chevy says! Now see if a DOLLY manufacturer will buy into that plan. Part of the issue is probably weight distribution: Most FWD *AND* RWD *OR* 4x4 vehicles are front heavy. Towing backwards puts more weight behind the dolly than on the dolly. Maybe they don't like that.
Owner's manual for sure. I think you'll find that Rear-UP is OK for breakdown towing, and you see tow trucks dragging RWD vehicles around Rear-Up every day. But I think if you look up "Recreational" or "RV" "Long Distance" you'll see a different answer.
Hmm... Service Truck... Road Service... Two testimonies for the Toyo's... Starting to look like Advantage Schwab...
We ran Toyo on our light vehicles (cars, minivan) for years. All good except we had was one set out of round. These were from Tire Kingdom, and their chain runs different names nationally. TK balked a little but ended up replacing the full set and all was well after.
Looking at Ramble's reply, we used Discount Tire (America's Tire out West) and were very pleased with their price and service. I don't think I've heard complaints about Discount/America's, and I'm pretty sure same about Schwab. BTW, sounds like Ramble might have R250's.
I don't keep a tally sheet, but the above seems to be true. Also true that many places don't want to work on something that won't fit In the Door, Onto the Lift, Under the Roof, etc. First set I had installed on another RV, took it to Pep Boys. Back when they had Futura Scrambler 8.75R16.5D... One man did it outside, took 02 hours, but they didn't balk at the job, not one minute.
Big trucks, tractor/trailers, run Steer, Drive, and Trailer tires. I have heard claims that Rib tires (like Duravis R250 and Michelin XPS) track a little better than All Season, Mud/Snow, Off Road... The old Scramblers were All Season and the new R250's are very Rib. I can't say I've seen Bad/Good from those two, one vs. the other.
Most of us do NOT rotate their RV tires. Some rotate front with spare and that's what I happen to do. If you wanted All Season on the Rear for a little better traction, and Rib on the front, I'd say go ahead. Make the Spare a Rib, rotate those three, and get the Spare off the rear (for a new All Season) if you have a rear tire failure.
I'm sure I'll replace all seven on AGE and not Wear. Probably not on Failure either. Only RV tire failure I've had was a tire of unverified age that had had stood around a lot not being driven. The Scramblers were low-priced tires and zero problems for 08 years. Same for the R250's. Not much reason to rotate RV tires since most of us'll age them out before we wear them out. I just rotate Spare to get some use out of it before it ages out.
Are you wanting to do this because the Colorado is two-wheel drive-automatic? I ask because the 4x4 can be towed four-down.
Yes, some people tow backwards on a dolly but again, not recommended by any manufacturer. Vehicles or Dollies.
YES, Go to Load Range E! Actually, very hard not to. That size is almost always sold in E, just be sure they're LT (Light Truck) designation. There are "P" series (Passenger) tires in that 225/75R16 size.
Anyhow, get E, and weigh your loaded coach. Set tire pressures according to weight. Put good VALVES (nothing rubber!!!) on there. The least expensive kits are sold at Camping World and will do the job just fine. Custom made, of solid brass. That's for the rear. For front and spare, all you need is ordinary 2" METAL valves.
Goodyear, Uniroyal, few users, limited reviews. A Michelin tire needs no introduction anywhere in the world. The LTX series (again must be "LT") is popular original equipment. Many of us have gotten Firestone Transforce and those comments are good. Michelin XPS and Bridgestone Duravis R250 are premium "rib" treaded tires and most consider both to be excellent. I use R250.
Hope this helps.
Do you have room to add a steel for the genny to sit on? With clearance for frame and more, you could set the frame on rubber mounts AND out rubber mounts between frame and genny. Might have to extend exhaust.
Does it have hydraulic leveling jacks? If so, those help. Some of us have added those trailer-type stabilizers, but it's really hard to get them out to the corners and still be able to keep them out of the way for travel.
Tell you what really helps: Heavy Duty Front and Rear Sway Bars! They improve handling on the road, but that extra roll stiffness shows up big time on the campsite. There are two major brands: Roadmaster and Hellwig. They are the SAME Steel and the SAME specs. Both use hard poly bushings. Difference is you can buy Hellwig for about half the price of Roadmaster.
A gas coach leaves most of its weight on the suspension, even with hydraulic levelers. Ours is about as steady with the new sway bars as it was with the leveling jacks down. Together, a little steadier yet. Most of us feel that our coaches sit OK. That said, they are not as steady as a trailer with jacks placed right out at the corners. If you need that with Class C, I'd suggest a set of those jackstand-style that you carry with you and set up once you're parked.
Looks good! Praise the Lord for Home Depot and Heavy Duty Ball Bearing Drawer Slides! Our house battery is now riding on a pair of them. Jayco put the battery on a slide tray for the higher trim lines, but not on Escapade.