I'll try to find you a wiring diagram for the E450 chassis. Good luck if the problem's in the RV portion.
Stop'n'Think about it... Ford provides "trailer" wiring. It's right there and probably easier to tie into, then continue on and do the 7-pin or 4-pin trailer tow pigtail.
If this is true, then be aware that on Ford's all "trailer" lights use separate relays and fuses. Check fuse #11 and #39.
My bet is on #39. If the coach's stop lights are on that, along with those on a toad or trailer, could easily blow the OEM fuse of 10A.
We had trouble with that with our first coach. It had the common "double" lamps on the rear, so stepping on the brake lit four lamps. At the time, I had the toad wired to the turn signals. That meant four more since it lit the front and rear turn signals. Eight lamps total, more than 10A.
The wiring wasn't heavy enough for good lighting anyway. I changed the coach lamps to LED, and installed separate LED Stop/Tail/Turn lights on the toad. All bright and fuses hold up now.
Prime reason you need model and serial number. 9 guesses and that is all they are. Because no one has any idea what you have.
Amen, Brother! OP tossed out the question and nothing since. Time for the rest of us to chill. Good to hear from you! I'm thankful for your help with our 4KY Spec K every time I run it.
If it's a Generac Impact 36LP this is the service manual, but this generator is only 3400 Watts (3.4 KW) not the 4400 Watts you noted.
Please check to make sure you meant 4400 and not 3400. Here's a pic of Impact 36LP. Yours look like it?
Welding looks impossible to me without removing the foam etc. from the area...
...I might try a reinforcing plate and some JB-Weld (and mechanical fasteners). If there's any easy way to do so, I'd also inspect the same joint on the other side for the same problem.
Agree. I'd make a generously sized triangular (but square wouldn't hurt, you'll hide it) fish plate. One that allows say four fasteners per edge, inch or a little more apart. Find a POP riveter that'll allow setting steel 3/16" rivets. Might have to be a hydraulic one. They're used on snow machine treads.
"Welded Metal Frame" sounds tough but with the light gauge of the metal, it also means something the coach builder was able to put together fast, perhaps with not-so-skilled labor, and get on with constructing your coach.
That's the biggest generator I've heard of in a truck camper!
Have you tried another small appliance with wattage similar to the coffee pot?
I realize it's inconvenient, but at least it WORKS! Most of us have to SHED load to get things to work...
To stand much of a chance trying to help you anybody with actual generator chops would need Make/Model. Please find that and post it here. Most of our card-carrying generator techs have bailed (check smokstak.com) because we weren't posting things like Make/Model.
The more info you can post, the better help you're likely to get.
So we need the OP to tell us which control type his A/C has.
Doug, thanks for the explanation. Wall t'stat = freeze sensor. Two knobs like an old "window shaker" = no sensor.
I wonder about the two-year age of this A/C. Could well be time for a good cleaning of the topside unit. Evaporator Core and Drain Pan. If Chris Bryant weighs in on this, I think he'd say an Annual Cleaning is appropriate.
And! Cleaning provides a chance to see if the Freeze Sensor (given wall t'stat) is in place where it should be.
What's the correct sensor placement? Can it be tested? How?
Another thing I do now is use premium gas, not the cheapest stuff.
x5 or x10 or so! I've had no carb problems with any of our small engines, like mowers, trimmers, blowers, pressure washer (that one's Honda powered) since I started going to the marina for ValvTechT which is 89 octane, ethanol free, stabilized gasoline. Fuel dock guys said about half their gas business walks down the pier with gas cans.
Crawl under on a Harbor Fright Tarp. Cheap Blue one. Then she can slide you on it, or it on the ground. I slithered under ours to check something and found I don't crawl (on my back..) anywhere near as well feet first as I do head first. Although both are kinda comical. My cousin grabbed me by both ankles and pulled me back out. On gravel. I should have planned ahead with a tarp.
At home, I really like cardboard. I keep a couple large boxes that I've flattened. Home I have a concrete RV pad, and it's amazing how much more comfortable (less uncomfortable actually) the cardboard is than just being on the concrete. I have a mechanic's creeper, but that takes up too much of the limited height under there. And, I find it lets me move when I'm trying to tighten or loosen something, when I need to stay put.
Crawl under with a phone and key "91" into it. Then you'll only have one more "1" to punch.
Agree with the evaporator-freezing scenario Scott notes. The A/C with wall thermostat have that sensor, but the non-ducted ones (knob controls on the unit itself) do not.
Especially with non-ducted, it helps to always run the indoor fan on HIGH. With ducted and freeze sensor, my guess would be that it'd still help.
Dennis, I wanted to be sure you read my whole reply...
Our church's play yard... Broken "spout" made it "unplayable" and it turned out that sourcing a whale, ordering a whale, shipping a whale, finding it's installed with "security" fasteners turned this simple project into one that's run all summer.
I looked under our 2002 and it seems the cat looks like this one
but there were other styles on RockAuto.com where I got this pic. Clamped on the front/inlet end, welded on the rear/outlet end. Other styles have a flange on the inlet. You'd have to match it up, make one, maybe two cuts, and clamp one or both ends.
But I think what you'll find is a loose heat shield.
The Ford label in the driver's door frame will have a manufactured date. Yes, the VIN can be decoded with this chart:
http://support.alldata.com/images/stories/userdocs/Tech-Toolbox/Year-to-VIN-chart.png width=400 Use the 10th character of the 14-place VIN.
I want this info to be able to look a cat up in an online catalog.
7.5 MPG towing in mountains isn't bad.
By Wheezing, I meant the sound at the exit of the tailpipe, not under the coach at the cat.
Beginning to be convinced the noise is a loose heat shield.
I'll take a look under our 2002 E450, but right now it's time for a nap. Just fought and won a battle with a blue whale and I'm bushed.
We woke up one morning to learn our Win10 ASUS Transformer Book was in the throes of the Win10AE (Anniversary Edition) "upgrade." It works OK, but we were camping and the process kept us from using the PC for a couple hours. AND it devoured our 6gB mobile data allowance...
But, all software applications we had, still work.
I gOOgled how to force my Laptop, a Win10 Acer, to upgrade to AE while I was at home and had 1tB to work with. I was able to do that, and again, all the programs work.
I HAVE had issues with things like touchpad drivers and had to go get new ones. So by extension, you might have to re-install the DRIVER(s) for some of your peripherals. Or do a complete peripheral INSTALL
Go under when it's COLD and see if those heat shields are loose. Good chance they are. If the monolith inside has broken up, it likely would have clogged the outlet and you'd experience a severe loss of power. You might hear more of a wheeze sound in the exhaust instead of a pulse.
What year is your Ford Chassis? A 2004 RV might be on a 2003 chassis. E450, right?
x2 Surge Brakes are fine. Not just on dollies. Boat trailers, utility trailers, rental trailers, all have them.
One nice thing, surge can be used with any tow vehicle. With electric, the tow vehicle has to be wired with a Brake Controller.
Front pads, calipers and hoses are common parts, likely to be in stock or next day at O'Reilly, NAPA, so on. Other than a little extra front axle weight to jack, and more lug nuts that are also tighter (7/8", 140-ft/lb), changing those parts is very easy. Caliper Slide Bolts may be Hex or TORX, 10mm tubing wrench for the brake line at the frame, I think 14mm for the banjo bolt at the caliper.
If you want the Rotors off for replacement, surfacing, or to pack bearings, the Caliper Bracket is in the way. Those 21mm bolts are TIGHT and might be rusted. Best have a breaker bar.