If it looks like thishttps://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRjDyXO0o3myDWzlnW2xOHHC6daM4DX-zy8vVx8zK729iAKjbhEcQ width=200 the middle conductor is bare copper wire. The HOT (Black) and Neutral (White) carry the only insulation. Black to Brass and White to Silver if your outlet has screws. Ground to Green.
The adapter in this case is only using one 120v leg, the neutral and ground. The opposite 120v leg is unused.
That's what I thought. So a meter will show continuity from three of the four twist lock prongs, to the three RV receptacle end slots...?
I hadn't thought you could take two 120VAC circuits, opposite phases, that make up 240, and combine to double the amps at 120. Maybe I'm wrong, electricity isn't high on my expert scale.
BUT I can say this with certainty: If you want to run 15 Amps or more through an Adapter, Do Not Use a PUCK, the $15 one. You need the Dogbone type, with cable between the plug and receptacle, to dissipate heat. The puck will melt and when the rubber melts the contacts lose contact, gets hotter, melts more...
So, some of you need the "male" connector, from Ford, to plug into a different radio... That could be tough. I used to wonder why the OEM radios folks gave me after upgrades, never came with the pigtail, radio to car's harness. Then I realized the upgrade used an adapter cable with a "female" that then wired to the "male" for the upgrade radio. You can easily get an adapter harness, but he radio end is the problem.
FYI, our Jayco came with a Panasonic single-CD "aftermarket" radio, single DIN. Our Ford dash is 1.5 DIN so it had an 0.5 DIN filler.
Many RV's have a detachable shore tie cable. Seems more common with 50-amp but I've seen it on 30's also. Keeps from having to have cable storage right at the power entry, and some of the 50A cables are so heavy they'd be very hard to feed through a mouse hole like many 30's. I'm glad ours (30A) doesn't have that. One less connection to give trouble.
Yes, the Leviton 30A receptacle, that mounts in a box, is what I'm using on my extension and will put on the 50 ==> 30 dog bone.
The camco male plugs seem to be ok--but their female plugs are weak at best.
I've found that the only female receptacles that hold up at all, are the hard "bakelite" kind. I've had to cut the molded female off RV extensions off, and put a box with receptacle on it. I think the whole thing is better: the contacts, the heat-resistant insulator, the clamping connections for the wires.
Got a 50 ==> 30 adapter that I'm going to have to put the box/outlet onto. I like to solder the the stripped strands for a more solid fit when the clamp tightens down.
Hopefully I can give the 830 to somebody who's stuck in a campground. Or, send'em to Walmart for a CAMCO.
And, yes, Roy, always use a Dogbone. Never a Puck!
I have two spare male plugs and honestly, I don't like either one. One looks like that Leviton linked above.
I think the wires should be clamped by the screws, not just tightened under a screw head. The Leviton and the other spare have just screws. So, I don't want to use those if I can avoid it. I'm interested in the CAMCO plugs. From what I can tell, at least one of their plugs uses clamping. But it doesn't seem every one they offer is made that way. Would rather get the larger one, if it's the only one that clamps, and cut the handle off if it won't go through the "mouse hole."
Good on YOU! It's clearly worth it to try the capacitor before calling a tech or scrapping the A/C. The capacitors aren't the only thing that goes wrong, of course, but sure worth the minimal cost and effort to rule out the possibility.
Kind of a loaded question...
What are you driving?
How high an air pressure do you need to check?
What's the access to your tire valves?
I always used pencil gauges. The few mechanical ones I'd tried were cheap and fell apart.
Got our first Class C. It had no wheel covers and had useful hand holes. Bought a Victor brand pencil-style gauge with Angled Foot for truck tires.
The C we have now, had RUBBER valves in Ford wheels with the tiny round hand holes. HAD to use a long trucker-style gauge with Straight Foot. AND a similar Air Chuck.
Now we have Borg Dually Valves with Air-Through Caps. That old Victor works great, and I've actually found the free pencil gauges from Discount Tire are accurate. I have an inflator with gauge from HF and it's accurate too. Used it enough to start wearing its hose out.
A steaming high air pressure isn't an issue since the first C was limited to 65PSI and the one we have now, 80PSI.
So, what do you need it for? I noticed one of the nice gauges linked here only went to 60PSI...
Those of you With Dual Tires and Without Custom Valves might like this one from Amazon:
A hub cap that keeps coming off usualy from a loose wheel bearing allowing the hud to wabble.
No doubt... Some of the smaller trailers, like boat trailers, use very flimsy hubs. A trailer shop told me that installing a new bearing race but getting it cocked/crooked can stretch the dust cap or seal mounting surfaces. So loose cap or loose seal. Hopefully travel trailer/fifth wheel axles use tougher hubs.
Speaking of Aluminum Wheels, most dually installations have alum on only the Outers. The Inners stay steel. I think part of it is the OEM lugs aren't long enough to mount two alum wheels since they're thicker than OEM steel wheels.
EDIT: Probably not possible to use dual alum wheels, even by changing the wheel studs to longer ones. Thinking back the way ours (Ford) is, the portion of the hub surface that "pilots" the wheels (supporting the load) probably doesn't extend far enough to support two thicker wheels...
Also, some alum are polished on only one side. In other words, the "dished" side of the rears is polished and the "domed" side of the fronts is polished. Owners of a rig with alum could have three different wheels: Front Alum, Rear Outer Alum, Rear Inner (maybe Spare too) Steel.
We've owned (still have) one vehicle with Aluminum Wheels. They ARE pretty, new. After awhile they get scarred and we had ours professionally refinished. Now that coating is peeling. They're pretty, there's a slight weight advantage (18-wheelers take advantage of that, to stay under max CCWR), and an alum wheel should run a little more true than stamped steel. I'm not sensitive enough to feel any difference.
I'm saying, I'd pass, given the choice again...
Those doors are mostly for looks. No gaskets, etc. I'd suggest you go to Chris Bryant's site and find the manual for your water heater. See what the installation process is, and check to see if something's not sealed. And, please post the Make and Model of this heater. That's more important in a case like this, than the Make/Model of the RV it's mounted in.
Good thing about Bearing Buddy is it's machined from solid metal, not stamped from sheet. What's more, it DOES what it claims, keep water out of trailer bearings. I was doing bearing work a couple times a season on a boat trailer. One time, I cleaned the bearings, greased and installed a pair of BB's. All I had to do for the next 8 years was grease the BB's.
But two things... You may want the inner seal kits that add a stainless seal surface to the inboard ends of the axle. It's essential on boat trailers, probably not so with travel trailer. Hopefully you won't get into water deep enough to rust the axle seal surface! But if you find that surface has gotten pitted, you can use the BB kit to keep you from squeezing grease into your brake area. Second thing, and this you DO NEED! The BB "Bra" kits. Part of the magic of BB is the Spring. It keeps pressure on the grease and it also strokes outward to relieve pressure if you try to add too much grease. That's why you can't blow your inner seal out of the hub while greasing. BUT BUT BUT if the spring are loads up with road grit, the piston can no longer move freely and the BB can't do what it's designed for. Bra keeps the dirt out.
What Sheared Off? Where?
First, must say that your case is the opposite of just about all others. Usually, A/C will start on 30A shore tie and it's the owner's generator that won't start it.
It seems to me that your household power outlet is deficient somewhere. You could have a 30A receptacle connected to a 30A branch circuit in a fully good 200A power center in the house. But if the connecting WIRE isn't rated for 30A (too small a wire gauge), your A/C will not be able to draw the power it needs.
Likewise, if your outlet is OK but you extend the RV's shore tie cable with a light duty extension cord, the A/C's starting demand won't be met.
Look at it this way: Your garden hose and the city water main out in the street might measure 75-PSI water pressure. That does NOT mean your hose can deliver anywhere near the gallonage that the main can. You can have voltage, but that doesn't mean you're going to get the amperage you need.
Do you have an AC (alternating current) voltmeter that you can set up in the coach and see what happens to voltage when you try to start A/C on shore tie? My guess is it's going to take a nosedive.
Here's the Service Manual for it courtesy of Chris Bryant. I believe that in a way above my paygrade, the Ignitor serves as a Flame Prover. Not the old Thermocouple way, some kind of ionization test. So I'd guess that if you broke it you need a new one.
Did you get the Control Board wet?
I do know that Atwood water heaters are bad about poor contact at the edge connector to the control board. Unplug, clean the board edge contacts with a pencil eraser, re-tension the spring contacts in the connector with a dental pick.