Also CraigsList and eBay. Many Many RVers towed Saturns. You're likely to find some parts. Can you install the baseplate yourself?
We should install a braking system in every toad. Older coaches, even more. Newer ones have bigger brakes, even if they're front disc/rear drum. Still newer ones have disc at all four corners and that's even better. That said, toad brakes for everybody! You can probably find a used Brake Buddy.
Here is an explanation from RIVA of how it works, if you need help getting it fixed with the DMV there is a Phone # at the bottom of the page.
If a DMV employee insists on using the incomplete chassis model year, please call the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association at 703-620-6003 for assistance. Ask for the Government Affairs Department.
Great research job, Friend! I'd stumbled into that writeup and didn't leave enough breadcrumbs to get back to it.
Usually, if the Model Year is correctly assigned, the actual chassis year doesn't make much difference. But in some years, it really does. Under a Ford-bases Class C, I wouldn't care if the chassis under a 2007 coach was 2006 or 2007. Nor if it was 2008 or 2009 under a 2009 coach. But I WOULD care if a "2008" was on a 2007 Ford E-series chassis. 2008 was the year the front axle was upgraded, MUCH larger brakes, and the sheet metal re-style that makes a 2008 look "new" and a 2007 "older." I saw a website, I think it was Winnebago (and I hope I'm right this time!) mentioned that the current coach model year would have a chassis year change during the production run.
That said, Chassis Year can matter when buying parts. And, again on Ford, there have been mid-year parts changes. Catalog'll refer to "Before and After" chassis production dates.
This has come up before, and "officially" the Year Model is that Year Model assigned by the Coach Builder, not the Chassis Builder.
That's even though the finished COACH bears the same VIN as the CHASSIS. If you cast a gOOgle net about, there's a group who will help get that corrected. I don't know if it was FMCA, Good Sam, the more I think about it, more likely it was Escapees.
Snafu probably happened at some state DMV. Our coach is currently mis-registered. It IS a 2003 Jayco but it's registered as 2002 Ford. At its age, I really don't think it matters, and I can still show it's 2003. For Model Years in the 2011+ range, I can see why you'd want to try and fix it.
I wanted to make sure we were talking a V8/V10 chassis of some kind!
Last time I looked, a Jayco Melbourne was a nearly-30-ft "B+" (narrow Class C with a cab fairing instead of the cabover bunk). On an E450, and Jayco offered some as 4x4.
Anyhow, just saw a new Melbourne that was on a Sprinter chassis, so I'm not taking "Freelander" by memory to mean on Ford or Chevy. But it seems this one is.
Agree that on paper it's doable. V10 is a very good load toting engine and so's the 6.0 Chevy.
Dolly puts very little hitch weight onto your coach and probably weighs 500 or so. You can use the manufacturer's advertised weight for the dolly, but weigh the car and coach.
Much of this will have to do with your expectations and where you plan to go. You should be good in the midwest, east, and south. Out in the mountains, you'll know you're in a heavy coach no matter what it is, and much more so with another 4000 behind it. As I said, V10 pulls well and has a great cooling system. Will definitely get you there, anywhere. No coach will climb mountains like a car.
The Diesel added a lot to the original cost. It may actually deduct from the resale, since 6.0 was problematic. But, in addition to whatever the mechanics might be, and maybe the noise, two factors we haven't discussed, remain:
1. It was de-tuned in the E-Series, so you don't get the high performance the pickup is known for
2. It takes the Front Axle right to rated capacity, limiting weight carrying and weight distribution opportunities.
Now for what I really wanted to say in this reply, and I'll SHOUT:
YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED THE FEATURES YOU WANT, LIKE THAT BED. DON'T COMPROMISE AND GET SOMETHING THAT DOESN'T MEET YOUR NEED JUST BECAUSE IT'S CLOSE BY OR AVAILABLE NOW.
...Park revealed that they did not have cable after all...
VERY glad you didn't tear your coach apart! This reminds me of Briggs & Stratton's troubleshooting chart under "Will not start"
1. No Fuel in Tank...
I don't think I can figure this out for you, but it'd help anybody who tries, to have the answers to some questions?
What is the Make and Model of the Furnace?
Does the furnace FAN run when it won't light, or does simply nothing happen?
Is this Jayco a Coach or a Trailer?
What size Propane Tank(s)?
What's the outdoor temperature where you are?
Will it work/not work at different times of the day?
Is your coach (house) battery in good condition, fully charged?
How do your other LPG appliances, Stove, Oven, Water Heater, work?
We have a few RV techs here, and hopefully one can help you. Meanwhile, one of them, Chris Bryant, has the website BryantRV.com with a lot of Service Manuals. You might find some useful troubleshooting there.
If it isn't already equipped with some kind of water supply shutoff, add it while you're doing this work. Then IF you have to take the toilet off-line, water will still work in the rest of your RV. When I added ours a few years ago, Lowe's had a like of SharkBite-Styled valves that I liked a little better than Home Depot's actual SharkBite fittings. All you need is "Half Inch." Doesn't have to be RV-specific. Just make a clean, square cut in the PEX tubing and slide 'er on.
You can find the service manual at Chris Bryant's Site. It seems to be common for Atwood water heaters to have trouble with the edge connector to the logic board. Unplug, clean board contacts with a pencil eraser, inspect the contacts in the connector and re-spring loose ones with a dental pick. Might just do it.
I appreciate knowing my fuel ecnomy but after the 3rd year I don't feel a need to track it since I now know, towing and not. It is simple economics to know what it is.
Boats get even worse "mileage" but the fuel is still about the least expensive aspect of ownership. RV's are Boats with Wheels.
With any machine, it's good to have a baseline figure. Our first C had a carburetor and usually about 7 mpg. One trip looked more like 4, and I found a blown power valve in the Motorcraft/Holley carb. I'd calculate, get 6.8, 7.3 etc etc but that 4 was far enough out of the ballpark to do some investigation.
There seem to be some cut rate replacement batteries for some LIon products. Probably NiCd, too, but I'm thinking of LIon because my SIL found some for a RIDGID 1/2" cordless drill. WHY, when they're Lifetime Warranted?
Well, he forgot to do the supplemental warranty registration and when he tried for a policy exception the reply was to the general effect of "Too bad so sad." Then he found some batteries, China, I'm sure, bought a couple and is at least back in business.
I hate it when a company hides behind fine print like that. They claim it isn't "their" warranty, but a third party, so nothing they can do...
1. Alternate battery sources are out there
2. RIGID is great but
3. Do all the homework/paperwork
There's more to the power (torque) than the voltage. Bosch is a great brand, but maybe the one you bought is a downsized one. I know some of these drills have a two-speed gearbox. Just got an 18V Ryobi LIon (lower on the food chain than DeWalt or Bosch) but it has two speeds and I have little doubt it'd work jacks.
I watched a guy who had no trouble cranking jacks with a 110-volt Harbor Fright. But then again, it was a 1/2" drive Impact Wrench. Just a little overkill...
If the "screw up" antenna is a Winegard like this, or similar
Then it should be equipped to run the coaxial 75-ohm cable ("screw in" as you call it) and you can run the modern, more efficient, cable from the antenna to your new TV.
Take a good look at the diagram Roy Ken posted above. For the Winegard and other "RV" antennas to work, they need power from that plate with the pushbutton switch on it. Do you have one of those? Does the ON light glow when the switch is pushed IN?
Driving cross country, no differences till you try to park at some tight place, and even then you'll probably find the 30-ft range doesn't cause more trouble than the 25-ft range. This from owning a 24 and a 31.
Using state/national parks as an example, here's my list, easier on top, tougher on bottom:
Driving into the park
Driving to the campground
Parking on campsites
Driving within the park sightseeing
Parking within the park at lookouts/points of interest while sightseeing
Ths length limit on Going to the Sun Highway is pretty short. Like a Class B. Can't be over 21' long, 8' wide, 10' high. That eliminates pretty much all Class C's.
With a 460 V8 your starter probably is a "mini" (may be called "high torque" "gear reduction" "permanent magnet" or "permanent magnet gear reduction" "PMGR") that looks about like
https://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-35fn7u8n1i/images/stencil/500x659/products/20579/52632/sfd0030-1__99703.1471334613.jpg?c=2 width=200 and not the old style direct drive like this https://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-35fn7u8n1i/images/stencil/500x659/products/17648/45154/sfd0079-1__68282.1471319963.jpg?c=2 width=200 but your can convert if you like. And I would. We had a PMGR on our boat that ran for years and years in a salty damp environment. Drive got stuck twice and I cleaned/lubed it, continued to march.
Here's one for $45 at DB Electrical. I would NOT simply order this without calling them, as they suggest. Many parts applications don't include the F-53 Ford Motorhome Chassis, but many of their parts will indeed work.
DB Electrical may not be familiar in the RV community but they're respected on the Boat and Automotive forums.
A friend called me one morning, his partner owner in a Class A with 460 tried to start it on a dead battery and it wouldn't crank with a new battery. Starter turned out bad, and they also replaced the remote mounted relay/solenoid. This makes me suspicious that these VERY reliable Ford starters don't tolerate bad batteries very well. Our battery's acting shaky and I'm going to replace it now...