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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1114 matches.

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RE: Time For New Shocks - HD Bilsteins Or Koni-FSD?

...advised me to keep the Ford stock ones on as they are brand new (900 miles)... I got a similar suggestion from a knowledgeable OP here: OEM Ford Front Shocks work well. So, when I installed a zero-miles 2012 axle in our 2002, I used the new Ford shocks that came in the crate with Axle, Brakes, Radius Arms and a few other things. I don't know how long they'll last, but we have no complaints about how it handles curves and bumps. EDIT: We're pretty heavy: 4600 Front, 9350 Rear
j-d 04/23/18 01:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Time For New Shocks - HD Bilsteins Or Koni-FSD?

Me Three. We chatted about it going on but not so much about the Out.
j-d 04/21/18 10:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Time For New Shocks - HD Bilsteins Or Koni-FSD?

Hendersons was an early promoter of FSD's. Back before they were available for Class C's, Henderson was promoting them for A's. I think they had a video about it. And you're right, Friend. Nice people up there in Grants Pass.
j-d 04/20/18 10:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 30-amp Power Inlet

I understand your motivation for this. Our 30A coils into a small compartment. Making 8" coils out of this heavy cable isn't much fun, but I know it's easier than poking it into a hole your hand won't fit into is even worse. That said: Never seen a shore tie cable fail in the middle. At least one that hasn't been run over by a bulldozer, hit by a mower, etc. No, all the problems happen at connections. Receptacles, Plugs with scorched contacts, screws holding wire in connectors, etc. So I'm actually glad to have only one end to be careful about. If you mount your own twist-lock like that Marinco, you'll probably do OK with it. Still, I had my own home made extension cord. My own RV shore tie plugged into it. Loud knocking on the coach. Outlet box was on fire! I did a temporary splice, then made it permanent at home. Connections crimped then soldered, padded out to cable diameter with tape then shrink wrapped. More cable to coil into that little compartment, but a JOY to have one less plug-in. Just sayin' and YMMV. There's a BUT with built-in: If the splice between the flexible shore tie cable and the hard wire leading to the breaker box isn't very well done, it can burn out and go open. Happens regularly on 30A coaches when they run two electric space heaters.
j-d 04/20/18 02:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Time For New Shocks - HD Bilsteins Or Koni-FSD?

A number of OP's have gone Koni FSD and are pleased, so there's a growing FSD camp. Small Monroe, etc. camp. BIG Bilstein camp. More like an army. At least to deserters from the FSD camp. One, you'll hear from shortly, in fact with a deal if you you decide on FSD. Other deserter was a couple years ago. Had them installed by Henderson's as part of other work, disappointed with FSD, hasn't posted since. I don't think I've heard of a deserter from Army Bilstein. For me, choice is made. Haven't done it yet, but they'll be HD Bilstein. If FSD trades some control for more comfort, I want control. There aren't enough reports yet to make FSD the Gold Standard in place of Bilstein. You have a lighter coach, and achieving car-like comfort might be possible for you. For me with our overloaded box truck setup, I don't think it's gonna happen, so I'll take control.
j-d 04/20/18 08:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Towing Car On A Trailer - Weight Limit

I think there's a "mode of use" issue too. Is there room to park/store a Trailer 1. At Home, and 2. At Camping Destinations? Is this frequent or intermittent use like 1. Moving North/South or East/West a time or two a year, or 2. Every week/weekend, or 3. A "tour" with stops every day or so? Will there be a lot of 1. tight maneuvering, or 2. back-in sites, or 3. pull-through sites? Correct that Trailer puts tongue weight onto the RV while Flat is about Zero and Dolly is Near Zero. Trailer can also shock load the rear of the RV with a bucking action. Trailer's the easiest on the car. Hard to pick, if the players were Me and the DW. There's the technical/mechanical aspect, then the mode of use aspect, the personal preference aspect, and of course the financial aspect.
j-d 04/20/18 03:57am Dinghy Towing
RE: Rv oven won't light

Wonder is Shelly ever got her oven working. :R
j-d 04/19/18 04:25pm Tech Issues
RE: 1999 Ford F53 Steering Wheel & Clock Spring Issues

For its resemblance to the spring that winds up in an old Big Ben alarm clock, grandparent's mantlepiece clock...
j-d 04/19/18 03:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Towing Car On A Trailer - Weight Limit

All of the Ford cars and crossovers with a 6-cylinder engine are towable with AWD. Understood, but my point was that I don't think an AWD can be towed with only one end on a Dolly either: 1. To make an otherwise not-towable AWD ehicle towable, or 2. To tow an otherwise towable AWD vehicle on a dolly because it wasn't set up with base plate, etc. Unless maybe that AWD RAV4 somebody mentioned. My understanding is 1. Either AWD all four DOWN (flat towable) 2. Or, AWD all four UP on a Trailer 3. Maybe to day, AWD can't be Half Up (dolly) AND Half Down (on the road). Or have I missed the point?
j-d 04/19/18 03:41pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Towing Car On A Trailer - Weight Limit

Subaru quit calling their manual shift vehicles RV towable too. Sure, they could have adopted a transaxle that wouldn't stay lubed. One theory is they decided not to take the warranty exposure. Another, they went to Electric Power Steering, and that EPS has a track record of interfering with being towed four down. I may be wrong, but to my knowledge, the only vehicles with drive on all four wheels that are towable, are what I'll call 4x4, where it's possible to shift the Transfer Case to Neutral, or the Transmission works out OK in Neutral with the TC in 2WD High Range. NOT aware of any Full Time, One Range, All Wheel Drives that are Dolly Towable. Either ALL Four Down, or ALL on a Trailer. That said, I heard Toyota was offering an AWD RAV4 that was Dolly Towable because there was an optional disconnect for the Rear Wheel Drive. Haven't actually read about it. How about: 1. Aluminum Trailer and 2. Add a Hitch to the Crosstrek so you can jockey 1. around.
j-d 04/19/18 01:23pm Dinghy Towing
RE: kwikee step malfuncuntion driving through rain

I think your manual is #888 Ours got to doing that. Dry weather but it was a loose crimp in the ground wire Doug mentions. Coach Builder used one large butt crimp connector to join four smaller wires, two from each end of the connector. Worked intermittent and the door started cycling Open/Close. To make sure it doesn't have power, you need to find and unplug the Four-Wire Connector. That's the whole step. There's also a small Two-Wire Connector to the Motor, but if you're struggling with it, and the step goes to run, you'll be trapped before you can get out. Unplug the Four-Wire!
j-d 04/19/18 04:59am Tech Issues
RE: Towing Car On A Trailer - Weight Limit

Something's fishy here. Check with the Class A guys about trailer capacity, given a specific Class A chassis you are considering. I say that, because the Ford E450 Class C chassis is rated 22000 GCWR (combined weight of Coach and Trailer). Since GVWR (loaded Coach only) is 14500, that leaves 7500 for the trailer. And that's with an aftermarket chassis stretch by a third party operation. Our E450 has Five Feet of Wheelbase Ford didn't build it with, plus the rear overhang (behind the axle) is also extended. MoHo builder could down-rate that 7500 and they often do. Then it comes down to the hitch itself. If they put a 3500 or a 5000 rated hitch on a chassis rated 7500, then they have to say max towing is 3500 or 5000 (per my example). Get the exact chassis model and specs. Picture of the builder's label.
j-d 04/18/18 10:06pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Rv oven won't light

Steve, that's how I've learned to light ours. Super easy. Thing to remember with this setup is that there is NO thermocouple on that Temp Control, the one with the Pilot position. If it blows out, that small flow of LPG continues. That's why I won't install electronic ignition on the stove burners with an extra lead down to the oven, Too much chance the oven pilot might blow out, then flood the oven with LPG, and have a big bang intending to light a surface burner. Drew, your post is critical. Without knowing Year/Make/Model of this Range, we can't determine what the problem could be or how to help, how to at least test it.
j-d 04/18/18 02:00pm Tech Issues
RE: looking for a old product

...might last for a couple of years, them its a pain to strip and reapply... I've only seen one RV that I was able to confirm was "floor waxed", an older Holiday Rambler Class A. And WOW! Finish looked aircraft quality, and I thought it'd been painted and/or stored inside. Nope, Zep. He claimed he applies light touchup coats and hasn't had to strip. I remain skeptical.
j-d 04/17/18 01:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How many tow a 4000 pound dingy behind a class c with V 10

Check all the ratings (not just GCWR) but if the 14,500 is the fully loaded weight that puts you at around 18,400 GCW pulling the mkz you well under the 22,000 GCWR. On the surface, I'm not seeing where there should be any issue. I don't see an issue either. But needless to say, the lighter the better, whether in what we pack inside or tow behind. We've had four toads in two pairs over the years. First was Toyota Tercel about 2200, Mitsubishi pickup about 2500. Traded for second pair which is Corolla about 2800, Nissan Frontier pickup around 3800. We could feel the weight differences in climbing grades and in stopping. When we got the Frontier, the plan was to use it as toad, didn't set the Corolla up with base plate etc. When we decided to try the Corolla we could tell at once that the 1000 pound savings made enough difference to make the equipping effort worthwhile. Now we don't take the Frontier unless we specifically need to have the truck.
j-d 04/17/18 04:13am Dinghy Towing
RE: Hard to stay in lane on highway?

What they said above! Print Michelin's Load-Pressure Chart. Put it in the Coach along with Get a good tire gauge that will fit all your valves. You may find you need to replace stock valves on the rears with BORG Dually Valves but that's an extra subject Load the RV as for a trip. Full Gas and LPG. Half tank fresh water, Gray and Black Empty. Add typical People and Supplies Weigh on CAT Scale available at most truck stops. If you tow a vehicle have it hitched up. Scale will report that weight as "Trailer." Coach front will be "Steer" and Coach rear will be "Drive." Set Tire Pressure according to Weight per Chart. FRONT is critical, nothing wrong with 80 in Rear. If tires are hot, go with chart + 3-4 PSI Drive again, Report Results
j-d 04/16/18 05:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Convert to tankless?

We usually camp in "state park" type sites, only water and electric, so long showers would mean frequent tank dumping. So we almost always use the campground showers. That said, We rarely hear complaints about hot water shortages with even six-gallon heaters We hear more complaints about tankless with inconsistent temperatures unless water is run really hard Many tank heaters (Suburban SWxxDE series) can heat with AC power and LPG at the same time and that solves the problem for those few who have it
j-d 04/16/18 05:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Norcold flu baffle removal

Can't you just rap on the flue with a screwdriver handle and knock the sawdust loose so you can clean it up from the burner area? The only one of those I ever pulled was on an older Dometic. It was a spiral baffle with a wire "handle" on the upper end. Or, could you jet the thing a couple times with compressed air, from burner area upward? I ask because I'm trying to spare you pulling the rooftop fridge vent. And, Oh, my roof repair left the same mess. I don't like them either.
j-d 04/15/18 12:56pm Tech Issues
RE: 01 Winn Journey air pump

I wrote Dorman about the size, reply was 156mm about 6-1/8 inches. The Dorman is the only popular aftermarket tank. If it fits it's the one to get. Others start at about 3x the price, and a sphere is the perfect way to store vacuum or pressure.
j-d 04/15/18 05:47am Tech Issues
RE: 01 Winn Journey air pump

If your chassis uses vacuum powered controls for your Heat/Ventilation/Air Conditioning (HVAC) system, then a Diesel probably uses an Electric Vacuum Pump to provide the vacuum for those controls. This is the most popular automotive vacuum reserve tank/reserve reservoir on the planet.https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41JoXHapf3L._AC_US160_.jpg width=200 There are two models: Dorman 47076 has a built-in check valve. Purpose of check valve is to retain maximum vacuum in the reservoir if the source vacuum (which I think is a pump in your case) reduces or stops. This happens in gas engine vehicles when the throttle plate opens. Dorman 47077 has no check valve and at least with gas engines it needs an external check valve. If you have such a reservoir and it's cracked, one of the two Dorman models should fix your problem. 47076 has two connectors and 47077 has only one. Your pump should run only occasionally. If it runs continuously or cycles often, something's leaking. On gas engine vehicles, the problem is often BEFORE the actual HVAC control panel in the dashboard.
j-d 04/15/18 05:30am Tech Issues
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