For any coach you're considering, try to include a truck scale in your test drive. And while you're at the Travel Center (New Speak for Truck Stop) check the tire pressures. With a small Class C, somewhere around 55 front, 70 rear. You're looking to make sure the rear axle isn't overloaded, the front axle has a decent weight load on it (about 75% of its rating, or at least 1/3 of total weight. Excess front tire pressure can make either one squirrely, the Ford a little more so.
Switch probably energizes a Relay and Relay could be sticking. Do you have a Wiring Diagram?
If no Relay, you may need to install one. Or more, depends on how the slide works. Or, replace Switch with one that has a higher amperage rating.
You don't say and profile doesn't indicate what your Chassis is, so about all I can offer is this:
Our Jayco rides on a 2002 Ford E450. Replacing both OEM sway bars, front and rear, with Hellwig bars required NO drilling. I don't have the invoice handy, but I believe I paid about $450 total for the two, about the price of one Roadmaster bar. The Diameter and Steel in the two brands are the same. Mounting systems differ slightly.
Our Hellwig bars have not disappointed in any way. Got ours from SD Truck Springs. Here is their Hellwig RV Sway Bars for Ford Page
We're at 4500 front, and run 60-psi, which is good for 4670. Tracking is better for it.
Henderson's told me they often put a Safe-T-Plus on the front and a Super Steer Track Bar on the rear to solve most Class C tracking problems.
If it's actually SWAY bothering you, then Sway Bars, and I'd do both ends. When a Ford chassis sways, it also Steers. So reducing Sway will also help tracking.
For Track Bar, look at SuperSteer, BlueOx and Brazzels. There may be more sellers but those come to mind. Not every product line offers every product. BlueOx for example offers the Track Bar (they call it TigerTrak) but not sway bars.
If I was shopping for any of these things whether shocks, steering stabilizer, track or sway bars, I'd get part numbers then gOOgle search. Also Amazon and eBay.
Steering Stabilizer: Hendersons makes SuperSteer and sells a lot of Roadmaster stuff, but they pick the products they feel work best. That may be only one item from a vendor's product line. In the case of stabilizers, they sell Safe-T-Plus, not the competitive Roadmaster "Reflex."
It bothers me that the C's we have, at least the Fords, are "Motorhome Prep Package." That's things like power windows, cruise, bright grille added, things like seats and mirrors deleted. There's more adds and drops than that list but you get the idea: They KNOW what's going on that chassis. I agree with all the others: RV Chassis should roll off assembly line with some upgraded chassis parts.
Our coaches may have a lot of weight mounted low, but "low" is often on a raised platform that allows for basement storage. Overall height is much greater. Then the rear overhang noted above. Toad affects handling and tracking too. We probably run much closer to max CVWR, too...
I think there's another factor: We operate in a different envelope. More long runs on the open road than most local delivery cube vans. I think we also have higher expectations...!!!
The Pacific Northwest seems to be the capital of the RV suspension improvement world. There's Henderson's Lineup (developers of Super-Steer products), Eric's RV (Eric Davis developed the Tru-Trac front track bar for Class A's), Brazzel's (has a line of rear track bars, probably more).
The majority of Track Bars for Class C's seem to be fabricated in one plant out there someplace and marketed through several brands with different part numbers and painted different colors. They're sold through many outlets so it's possible to shop for price and shipping terms.
I've visited Henderson's and had a phone conversation with Eric Davis. John Henderson was very cordial and helpful in person and so was Eric on the phone. We were talking Track Bar when Eric tossed out a "free tip" which was to be sure there is virtually NO play in the rig connecting Toad to RV. That would be Receiver, Drop/Lift Adapter, Tow Bar, Connection of Bar to Baseplate, and Baseplate. Total of 1/2" at the very most.
I mention Eric's tip because many of us install a Track Bar to help with control of a toad. The point here is that mods to the RV can counter bump-steer from a loose tow rig but will not completely eliminate it.
The above comments exactly. It's going to be a 14"x14" vent, and the hinge determines whether you're fixing a Jensen, Ventline or Elixr brand of vent. This Camping World Link shows lots of them. I've sent a link like this before and shown only three, one from each brand. Now I see a vent brand called "Hengs" mentioned, and "metal" or "plastic" flanges. I hadn't heard of Hengs, and every crank-up vent I've worked on has had a metal flange.
I'm thinking you might be able to find somebody to climb up there an either 1. Carefully photo the hinge area with a smart phone or digital camera. Take photo and post here or compare yourself with the hinge areas in the CW webpage. or 2. Take a phone or tablet up there and compare looking at the vent with the examples on the CW page. Then you'll know what kind you need.
There's a wide range of prices. Part of it is how much the seller thinks they can get for a $15-20 item. BUT some of the covers are made of a much longer-lasting material than the cheapest ones.
To replace a Lid, typically you disconnect the link that raises the lid when you turn the handle inside. Then extend the Lid beyond what it usually lifts to. Bend over Backward basically. Then it'll unhook or slide to the side.
Suggest you replace them all if it has more than one. You can protect against future damage AND be able to open vents I the rain if you install covers. I think the part that's broken now is called "Lid" and now I'm talking https://images3.campingworld.com/CampingWorld/images/products/1000/125x125/1733n.jpg width=150 "Cover." There are many brands and colors. MaXXair is the common brand and they're good. Installation is four holes in the vertical part of the flange, no holes down into the vent base or roof.
I also suggest you look at the install instructions for both models, even if you're hiring somebody to do the job. One might (and I haven't looked) require more or different fascia/trim cutting. Also, (and I doubt this but look) they could install at different heights. That could make it easier to have a level tow bar with one vs. the other.
If I didn't state it strongly enough: Sway Bars Rule! On the Straight, In Curves, On the Campsite. Only mod I know of that helps Underway OR Anchored!
I looked in my file and see where I bought 7008 Front and 7180 Rear in FEB10. My papers don't have Price, but I think $400 or a pinch over for both. Paperwork says "Winter Sale 10% off Free Shipping" and the bars were shipped to me direct from Hellwig.
The Specs, Diameter and Material, are same for Hellwig and Roadmaster. From instruction sheets, I like the looks of Hellwig's rear bar mounts better than RM's. The RM front bar for the '92-'07 models had prettier mounting hardware than Hellwig, but my Hellwig hasn't as much as stumbled. The difference is PRICE. Discounters like SD can set you up with both bars for about the price of one Roadmaster bar.
On Hellwig's Site the part number for the Front Bar changes according to the number of Leaves in the REAR Spring Stack. The page shows email addresses called customerservice and techsupport, both @hellwigproducts.com or 1-800-HELLWIG (435-5944). Suggest you count the rear spring leaves and include that number in your question. Our E450 has the 11-leaf pack.
I think Hellwig will indicate they didn't update the year models in some cases, but check that too.
SD doesn't stock those bars. Mine, at least, came from the factory in Visalia CA. If you and Hellwig work something out, I'd guess SD could still take your order. Pretty sure Hellwig doesn't sell direct.
On 2002 E450, I still have Original Rear Shocks at 40,000. Probably shouldn't but it's a project I just haven't gotten to.
I installed Hellwig Sway Bars Front and Rear. Huge difference in stability, tracking, cornering. Our coach is actually 32-ft (called 31A) and there's at least 10-feet from rear axle to trailer hitch. I got a BlueOx Track Bar and installing it helped a lot with the toad.
The Hellwig 7008 Front Bar, 1-3/8", WILL FIT your late model axle. From 1992-2007 (Chassis Years) Ford used a Front Bar that didn't have End Links. Instead, it poked into bushings in the axles themselves. In 2008, they added mounting bosses to the axles to allow use of traditional end links. In proof, I offer a photo. I replaced the axle of our 2002 chassis with one taken off of a 2012 chassis being retrofitted to 4WD. The machined surface with rust is where the late model (2008 and newer) Sway Bar End Links would attach. Next to it is the hole that would have the rubber bushing for a 1992-2007 Sway Bar. Ford added the bosses but didn't fill the hole. Then further to the right is the end link clamp used on the Hellwig 7008 bar that I previously had on the 2002 axle.
Several of us have ordered Hellwig bars from SD Truck Springs. I found them very satisfactory.
Breaker replacement is a routine job at state parks with 30A service. Our first Class C had a 13500 A/C and Atwood water heater with electric element. We could run everything on 30A UNLESS the breaker was bad. Current RV has 15000 A/C and we can't run the Suburban water heater on electric in summer even on a new breaker in the pedestal.
RVers abuse pedestals by plugging/unplugging their coach with their full load ON. If the Breaker's ON, then the socket gets scorched. If it's OFF and he coach load is ON, that taxes the Breaker too.
I'm going to say the following in the belief your front end (suspension and steering) is tight and there haven't been changes or damage there...
Thanks to efforts to standardize in the tire industry, you can use one manufacturer's Load/Pressure Chart for other manufacturers' tires.
Michelin's chart is easy to find. Go to your "LT225/75R16 E" tire size and you'll see that 65-psi in Single (front axle) service carries 4670-pounds. The Door Jamb Sticker from Ford shows GAWR-F (Gross Axle Weight Rating - Front) as 4600-pounds.
Up through 2007, GAWR-F for E450 was 4600. Typically the coach builder only repeats Ford's numbers.
What we need to do is use the rest of a chart like Michelin's. Load your coach like you would for an RVing trip. People, supplies, tanks, equipment. Take a jaunt to a truck stop with a CAT scale. Tow your toad if you have one. For $10 you get legal-for-trade weights for Steer/Front, Drive/Rear, and Trailer/Toad.
I'm going out on a limb and guessing you do not have close to 4600 on that front axle. Most Class C's have a long rear overhang with a relatively short wheelbase. If you have 4000-pounds on the front axle, you need to come down to 55-psi. 3800? Then only 50-psi.
Make adjustments and take another test drive. I don't want you getting new tires, overinflating them (relative to actual load) and being in the same position you are now. Fords are very sensitive to front tire pressure when it comes to tracking on the road. The rear axle weight will be informative. Hopefully below GAWR-R and you can reduce pressure a little for better ride, but rear won't affect tracking.
At least the tire installers didn't "sidewall" you. You know, "Says 80, put 80 in all six." That just happened to us on a set of new tires. Went over a high bridge with some crosswind. OK going up. Downgrade unloads suspension a little and the RV became nearly uncontrollable. Stopped as soon as I could and tire gauge showed 80-plus. Dropped pressures to 65-plus and the rest of the drive was OK.
Know and verify the right pressures for your coach, your load.
As new coaches, Nexus looks good. So does Phoenix Cruiser. You won't go far wrong with a Winnebago (or Itasca) product. The Forest River Sunseeker and Forester are really catching on in the last few seasons. Then I'm thinking Jayco and Fleetwood. Toward the bottom of my list, the Coachmen products. Thor seems to be having problems with Class C's. Recent info indicates the RAM ProMaster chassis doesn't have adequate capacity. Mere existence of a chassis doesn't mean somebody should build on it.
Remember, Floor Plan Rules! If you and significant other don't like the layout, Chassis, Roof, etc. etc. won't keep you happy.
We thought of a B+ (yeah, doesn't really exist and it's more like a C- but how would THAT sell) but what we found was the attractive sizing reduces storage to darn near zero. DW wouldn't have one without a Pantry. We wanted an Oven. And a "separate bedroom." Ended up with a 31-ft C with wide (101") body.
Watch the Wheel Base to Length Ratio. The low 50% range is supposed to be OK but a number of C's have trouble with light front axle and overloaded rear axle in that ratio range. Better to shop in the upper 50%'s. Include a Truck Stop in your Test Drive. Make sure front tires on a C are between 55 and 65-psi and spend $10 to weigh it on their CAT scale. If you actually can check the rear tires, go for 70 to 80-psi and more importantly that they're close to same pressure in all four. Then you'll know where you stand. If it's Front Light/Rear Heavy you really can't do much about it by shifting your stuff.
A 31-ft should have a WB approaching 220-inches.
^^^ The pressure regulator on the shore tie hose? YES. I think the brass ones are better than the plastic ones, but I had a brass one shut the supply off.
"fitting entering RV" - Where the shore tie hose attaches to the coach? There's a check valve in it. If that's what you worked on, did you get it right?
We've had two Class C's and the water systems were different. First had a shore tie connection and a separate "gravity fill" where we just stuck a hose into an opening, like filling a gas tank. Current one has only the shore tie and valves inside have to be worked to fill the tank.
If you're taking parts off the outside of the coach, be sure they're sealed in place when you're all done.
I think you're making trouble for yourself by drilling.
Why not just drain the tank good and then drive onto a slope or blocks to keep the "contents" away from the valve?
Or just put a kitty litter tray down and catch the "contents?" I'd do that with even a Black Tank before I'd drill a hole in it.
Looks like you found the problem and that's great. We just had a thread about cold weather and heated hose. Was that you? In that thread the hose maker said not to use it with an extension cord. Begs the How Then DO I Use It? question...
^^^ We also use a Frontier. When we looked at Nissan, Toyota and Ford Ranger (now discontinued) the Frontier was easily the nicest of the three. And approved for towing with manual transmission. Ford was, too, but Toyota was not.