Then I'm glad I shot that pic as close as I did. And that YOU paid better attention. I thought they were done the same... So GOOD on YOU.
I took pix before taking it apart because I'd been cautioned by others Here on This Priceless Forum! I mentioned that the way the throttle and choke are linked together on the carb itself, the carb can't just be slid sideways from between air filter housing and the manifold. One shutter is always extended past the gasket surface. A member suggested using a screwdriver to pry the filter housing forward using the filter fastener bracket. I modified the plan by turning the wingnut over to provide a straighter purchase and it came out like this
I removed one of the TORX screws that holds the housing in place to keep strain off the housing. It's a T-30, size courtesy of another Member HERE.
Next time I might dab a little paint on each link and the hole it goes into. Yes, I succeeded the first time. But I'm older now...
One of OP's Pix
Pic of my 4KY Spec K
Looks like the linkages are connected the same way. Given the motor ends are connected right, of course... Ours runs well connected as shown.
Let's make sure: It's the Choke, the shutter on the LEFT, that you have to hold open, correct?
Be careful, too: If you race the motor, above the 3600-RPM it runs at to generate 120VAC @ 60hZ, voltage can get dangerously high. For anything that's being powered by the genny, that is.
One nail at each end cap of the awning. There was one hole straight through the shaft. Then two slots in the small (about 1" diameter) end of the cap. Slots were at 90*. Small nail, 6d maybe 8d, might have used drywall nails, through slot and hole, one at each end. Because the slots are at 90*, you only have to turn the thing a little ways to catch alignment of the hole with one of the slots. Then you can put the nail, cotter pin, etc. through from either end. I went out and looked at a box of 4d "box nails" and they didn't look as big as what I remember using, but I think they would have worked.
EDIT: You're taking me back a long time, but as I recall the shaft is only about 3/8", making the hole through the shaft less than 1/8". So the pin can't be near 16d.
I think you'll find two springs. The manual awnings use two. My guess is that springs handle most of the weight and the motor "assists" the open/close cycles.
When we repaired an older A&E (now Dometic) manual awning, I pinned the ends with small nails. Cotter pins'd look nicer, but I don't think nails will fall out under all that torsion pressure. I remember one hole in the shaft and two grooves that the pin could pass through.
OK, I found Brake Fax #24. It's the second to bottom on this page.
And very interesting. Before going on:
Ryan, Congratulations on your research skills!
OK, back to it:
I think I'd try to see if it had any Codes first. I don't understand the remark in your RWAL article where it says Ford codes clear every run cycle. I guess you could start and run it, press the brake pedal, and have your Assistant either ground that Terminal or read the blinking light.
Drill a hole and test with a stiff wire? Why not? Pick a drill size that you already have a self-threading screw for. Make a "stop" for your drill bit so you can't poke the Piston. Put Grease in the flutes of the Bit, hoping to catch as many Chips as possible.
Run your test. Hope you have a good Assistant. The World's Best Assistant is off the market. Married her nearly 50 years ago.
I tried to find the FAX #24 and was unsuccessful. Please link that and let's have a looksee.
Looking at a link on that RWAL article, I got confirmation that some newer 4-wheel ABS systems have to be bled professionally. Or at least by somebody with a scan tool and power bleeder.
That's what our '02 chassis has. I think I'll stay with my "fluid replacement strategy" where I use a turkey baster do remove nearly all the fluid from the MC. Then fill with fresh and bleed all that out via the calipers. Then fill again.
Hope I don't have to replace an MC soon...
I helped a neighbor replace the spring in a manually operated Carefree of Colorado awning. Different from a Dometic, but what we did to wind it was use half of the rafter as a lever. Since it was already attached to the roller bracket, all we had to do was wind it up, the specified number of turns. Then we slid the rafter back together. EASY!!!
You may be able to Un-Wind the same way. If not, a pair of 10" ViseGrips is enough. But wear gloves and goggles and be ready to bail out if it slips. If it gets away, you won't be wanting to try and stop it.
That Motor Assembly is VERY expensive, $300+ if you're lucky. So take it apart and see if you can replace less than the full kit. You may get lucky and find a sheared drive pin or the like.
By all means, test RWAL if you think you can. As a '93 chassis, diagnostics are OBD-1, and I believe there's a limited self-test you can do. We've had two Aerostars, '92 and '97. One was OBD-1 and the other is OBD-2. I haven't had occasion to try and test either, but I did have a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) to bad on the '92. It took out ABS, Speedometer, Cruise, and Overdrive.
I scanned the article and it seems that if RWAL has electronic/electrical failure, it'll report the problem. But hydraulic failure, not so much. Good luck with that.
Does it also have a Proportioning Valve? Our '83 E350 did, and I replaced that too, in search of better braking. But it did not also have any form of ABS... I believe Front Disk/Rear Drum needs a proportioning valve but Four Wheel Disk does not. Belief could be wrong...
Welcome to the Forum! And just in time for the Holidays!
Something with a Chevrolet chassis will help in the "C" market. Their "van" cab offers more space than Ford. I'd say, Get Thee to a mega-dealer or RV show and browse around. Indiana and Iowa may not be just around the corner, but they're well within travel range if you want to visit some of the builders.
Watch out for interference from retracted slides when you evaluate driving position. You'll need a floor plan that doesn't restrict any of the legroom and reclining capacity the cab offers.
A couple builders, Tiger and Host come to mind, build on a pickup chassis instead of a van. Something there might appeal to you.
Make builders and dealers work to get you into the RV community. You may end up looking for used units on private sales, but the dealers, builders and shows are where you'll see enough units to get an idea what you want.
Yo! Bryan! I found that 2008+ models use a different MC than my 2002, and I wondered how that would work out with the new brakes that came with the 2012 axle. I didn't notice any issue, and now I see that both MC's are same diameter. That suggests that the new brakes don't know they're working with an older MC...
And...Brakes, I got that second rear caliper replaced. And you're right, a brake issue on a vacation trip s___s, but if I can correct it and don't have to be towed, I call it a "W"!
I looked at our master cylinder and couldn't see if it had a diameter on it. According to RockAuto's lookup, it's 1-5/16" (shown in some places as 1.3125" same thing). But ours has HydroBoost, not Vacuum Boost, and so does the F53 Class A chassis.
You may find this article interesting. It discusses the relationships between MC diameter, caliper pressure, pedal effort, pedal travel.
RockAuto includes a listing of which vehicles a given part also fits. It showed some E350's, even a 150, and various years. The thing I didn't like was that the "will fit" lists were not the same, meaning that one of the MC's to replace our 2002 with 1-5/16" bore would fit more others than another MC from the same listing. There were also some notes about "with HydroBoost" and I don't believe HB came out till the E-SuperDuty (basically the E450 till Ford decided on how to badge their vehicles) in the late 1990's.
If you look up "Ford, 2002, E450, V10" you'll see where they're closing out a 1-5/16" MC for $30-something. If you want to try it... I think you'd get a higher pedal with less travel but more pedal effort than you'd like.
Article above shows a company called Vanco that offers HydroBoost retrofit kits. Instead of Engine Vacuum, it works off an existing Power Steering Pump.
I'm into a big project right now so I gotta bolt. Call, PM, email me if I can help.
I feel your pain, remembering doing all that on our '83 E350. I didn't pay anywhere near that as I bought parts to do the front, booster and hoses myself. A friend helped with the rear. OK I actually helped him... I really thought we had it licked when we found the rear cylinders so stuck that new linings never wore into newly surfaced drums. Installed new shoes, cylinders, hardware kit, and wheel seals. Even then braking was not significantly better, rebuilt MC and Booster and all. Replaced front rotors, calipers and pads...Again. First time I did the front I didn't replace or resurface the rotors. This time...not significantly better.
Back to the later models, 1992 and up. A new (2008 or newer) take-off axle from a 4*4 retrofitter WILL upgrade the braking. I did that project in my driveway with zero assistance till it was time to bleed the brakes. Really not difficult and it's a super upgrade.
You're right, Ryan, haven't seen you here in literally years. We spoke on the phone. About a miss I think. Bear in mind that 1993 Class C chassis was only E350. The E450 and predecessor called E-Super Duty didn't come out for another half dozen years.
The physics gurus might correct me, but I believe that MORE diameter in a brake cylinder piston will result in LESS output pressure, not More, given that the linkage and booster provide the same pressure to that piston.
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2FMotorcraft%2FF4TZ2140BD-FRO.jpg&imagekey=1832804-0&width=500 width=300 ...Is a pic of what RockAuto.com shows as the OEM Motorcraft replacement for your master cylinder. E350 from 1990-1996. I look at Rock because they list a wide variety of parts for an application. That's "1-1/8" cast into the side of the cylinder in the picture. Other sources I looked at showed same size in the few cases where Diameter was included in the detail. Rock shows BRMC38 as its Motorcraft replacement part number and F4TZ2140BD as an alternate number.
I don't think Diameter is the issue. If not, what DO I think? What comes to mind:
1. Nature of Beast. Our 2002 E-FOUR-50 (that uses a hydroboost brake, not Vacuum like 1993 E350) has a crummy-feeling brake pedal that stops simply great when driven.
2. Contaminated Brake Fluid. A thorough (perhaps professional) flush, fill, and bleeding might yield some results.
3. Ryan's Beast has rear DRUM brakes. Are they working properly and adjusted up to the drum surface like they oughta be? The way we drive a motor home doesn't lead to enough stop-and-go, backward-forward, maneuvers to let the self-adjusters do their job.
4. The Brake HOSES may have deteriorated to the point where they expand a little under application pressure. If you don't have record of them being replaced, new ones might tighten that pedal feel up. There's a Hose to each front brake and one to the Rear axle. Your question makes me think about something I've noticed. Sometimes when the brake's applied, the hose will "jump" a little. I wonder if that "jump" means the hose is changing size (getting longer) with pressure. Any distortion in the hose is going to show up as softness in the pedal. I've seen this "jump" happen but didn't wonder till now if it ties to softness or loss of pedal.
5. Take the Diameter question to the parts counter at a large FORD dealership. A NAPA store as an alternative. Try to pick a time they're not busy and can spend time with you.
Good to hear from you, Ryan. Hope you've been well, call if I can help. Have a Blessed Christmas!
Post your Model and Spec Code here. And/or over on Smokstak.com... I like to think somebody will have one that's shot and can be parted out.
You probably already know that the Cover is part of the genset's cooling system. Don't run the genset without it.
I would, and that's how I answered a question from another OP with 91000 on his E450. Just don't pop any seals. What is the size and wheelbase of your C? Or the Front Axle Weight? I had a shop tell me the "long" Class C's wear front end parts quickly. I'd wondered Why? then realized that many of the short C's don't have enough wheelbase to offset a long rear overhang. That makes them rear-heavy/front light. We have right at 4600-lbs on the front axle.
Disconnecting Negative, either first or by itself, is sure safer than Positive first or only. And with an open end wrench! I went to help a mechanic take the battery out of a customer's car for winter storage and charging at our shop. Somehow, he either grounded the Positive through the BOX wrench, or got the BOX wrench across the two battery terminals. I forget which but the wrench about lit up across that battery. He got it loose with a rag and tossed it into a nearby kiddie pool. Well, we also drained the customer's pool, through a wrench-shaped hole melted through the bottom.
On the Dinghy Towing Forum, we're seeing that Ford recommends removing the "+" battery cable when towing several of their recent models behind a motor home.
Ford seems to have tried to standardize its systems beginning 1990's, So, I find it a little hard to believe that a disconnect will cause such grief.
A "memory saver" (like the 9V battery kits mentioned above clearly will NOT solve the problem of the battery running down. If a phantom load is running a starting battery down, a 9V won't last more than a few minutes.
Interestingly, some manufacturers recommend AGAINST a memory saver. So let me say this and hide behind a rock:
WHAT does the Owner Manual Say? I'd see if there was any comment in Maintenance, Battery, Towing, and Recreational Towing...
Some of them have a power steering pump with a big O-Ring between the sheet metal reservoir and the cast iron pump. And of course a shaft seal behind the pulley. You need a steering pulley puller (borrowable) to get at that seal, but the O-Ring is straight forward (and messy). Any time I've had steering box trouble I've gotten a reman exchange unit. Other'n that, two hoses, high and low pressure, connecting pump to box. I don't think there's a Power Steering Cooler.
Does your Oven have a Safety of some kind to shut the gas to the PILOT off if the Pilot goes out? Ours does not, and for that reason I decided not to do one piezo with an electrode in the Oven as well as three on Stove Top. We've had the Oven Pilot go out, and fill the oven with LPG. I would not want to spark it every time we lit a surface burner and have one of those times ignite an oven full of LPG.
That said, the Oven lights very easily if the Pilot is primed a few minutes before sparking it with a long BBQ lighter. It lights even more easily if I request a baking temperature before lighting. The pilot flares up when the oven goes into baking mode, and that flare up admits more LPG for less delay in lighting.
This oven has "Pilot" as a dial position. No pressing or the like involved.
I might consider a second Piezo, dedicated to the Oven. That and a mirror made from a stainless steel spatula to be able to look at the pilot.