Well...Tech Support says the foam pieces are Not Available. Not sure how they could be anything BUT available inasmuch as they still sell that shroud and the current install instructions include the foam.
Anyhow, we took a 10-day trip using the A/C with a "roof" I made from sheet plastic. The system ran without incident in the same heat/humidity that had been shutting it down before.
I've since made my own foam pieces from a swim noodle as shown here:
In this pic, they're attached the top corners of the condenser frame with sheet metal screws and fender washers. The tore off when I tried to install the shroud. What I ended up doing, was tuck the two noodle pieces horizontally under the bottom edge of the shroud. Then I placed the shroud (Tuffmaxx, I don't know if a Coleman shroud will let you do that!) in place rear/condenser end first. I then worked the pieces up to vertical and rolled them to vertical at the edges of the coil. Rolling should be done so the rolling surface is the one against the coil face, and the dragging action is against the shroud.
Time'll tell, next trip...
That "2000" does sound familiar. I might have the paperwork but haven't looked for it. I'm pretty sure when I spoke with them on the phone, they were in Pender.
And yes, the bar I have uses buttons on the bottom sides of the arms to release them.
Made in Pender, Nebraska like Blue Ox. Took me awhile to remember the model name, but it's "Easaliner." At my age, my "desktop" is shrinking, so I have to mount a mental archive file. That's not the problem - I have to find that archive first...
I installed one on our 2002 chassis and again on a 2012 axle that I swapped into our coach. The first time, I think I had to tinker a bit but it lined up and worked very well. Second time, right into place.
Thinking about this installation, there are three "adjustments"
1. Where the bar clamps in the center bushings and brackets. You can slide it left and right a little.
2. The Driver side brackets. They can be positioned to an extent.
3. The Passenger side brackets. Can also be positioned to an extent.
You don't want anything to rub, and you also want the two end links (long 1/2" bolts in this case) as close to vertical as everything else allows.
What's actually wrong?
Here's a pic of our passenger side.
The vertical boss with surface rust is where the late model OEM sway bar attaches with end links. They added the boss and left the bushing hole used by earlier models. If I did not already have the 7008 bar I could have used the Hellwig version of the 2008 and later bar.
If you are convinced that somehow the end link bosses on your 7008 are spaced wrong, measure that spacing (might be the length of the bar overall, across the two bosses) and call Hellwig tech support. They should have a spec for what that spacing ought to be. I can't measure the exact BAR, but based on the spacing of our end link bolts, spacing is close to 41-5/8"
Don't despair! You're gonna love it! We did the rear also, and the difference is huge. On the road AND on the campsite.
Let me know how I can help.
Generators like yours are interesting because they "idle" with no load at the same RPM as "full speed" with a heavy load. BUT the carburetor throttle plate is in a different position and a different fuel flow path is used. So... One might be OK at Idle and poor at Full. Or OK at Full and poor at Idle. That's why the guys are suggesting carb cleaning. It's probably harder to clean the Idle circuit, so you may be lucky with feeding it a cleaner. See if you can find a wattage load that starts to open the throttle. Say an electric heater. Start it tipping into the power range and see if you can clean it, then add more load. Work your way up to the A/C.
Also possible you don't have a Start Assist (sometimes called Hard Start) Kit on your A/C and need to add one.
OP, did you ever get this Skylight issue fixed?
When I looked at this thread, it seemed to me that you needed to replace Vent Covers. In the first picture above, the Vent Cover is the open "Lid", hinged at the right in the photo. They're easy to replace. Disconnect the arm that lifts them when you turn the crank. Open the Lid till it's over backwards. Then something has to be loosened, removed, straightened, to let you slide the cover out of its track to one side or the other, then slide the replacement in. Then tighten, replace, bend back, whatever retains the lid.
I can't be more specific because there are about three versions of the Lid. Camping World has pictures of the types so you can figure it out from there.
The standard ones are inexpensive, less than $20, and there are Lexan ones that might be say $30. Worth it in the Southern Sun. So is putting Vent Covers over the whole assemblies. They protect the Lid and also allow you to have it open in the rain. I have them on all three of our vents. They look sorta like an A/C shroud, and I know you know what those look like. MaXXair is a popular brand, but Camco and others offer them as well.
Your wiring looks right, given the two RED wires are on HERM and BROWN is on FAN.
I was mistaken earlier and will correct that post in EDIT: With the Dual Capacitor, COM should have 04 wires and I had said 03. Then 05 wires if you jumpered to a single FAN Cap and I had said 04. Since there are only 04 lugs on a capacitor terminal, the extra wire could go to the terminal on the single cap that you connected the jumper to.
I've heard of OP's shooting control box trouble down to a relay and they getting a relay from an electronic supply house. Even Radio Shack might have something.
I'll go look at that Control Box page on Chris Bryant's site. Here it is Linked
Based on what Doug said, if you cannot get a motor that doesn't require a lot of adapting, try and find the bearings for yours. There was a thread awhile ago where an OP replaced the sleeve bearings in his Coleman/FASCO motor with ball bearings. Sounds great, but sleeve bearings are used in fans because they're quieter than ball. In an RV A/C I don't know how you'd hear the difference over the roar, though...
If you're actually in Houston, you've got to be able to find a motor rebuilder or a bearing shop. It'd be my choice to repair a working motor than cob up a mounting for a new one. That said, if you made up some brackets, an epoxy like JBWeld would hold them to the new motor without welding, drilling, riveting, etc. Just remove the paint, rough up the surface, and re-paint before installing.
It's a DUNCAN. We have one and it's been trouble free. I might still have the instruction sheet. Duncan was the (or very close to) originator of the folding towbar. They were made by Automatic Equipment, who also makes Blue Ox. Blue Ox bought Duncan and then shut it down. I believe they did it to get a competitor off the stage.
Essentially same idea as a Roadmaster Stowmaster, and I'm sure Blue Ox has an equivalent. We're now using a Roadmaster Falcon RV mounted towbar because the only storage I had for the Duncan was inside the RV, under the Dinette.
The left end of the bar, the notchy part, is called the "claw" and it's held down in the bracket by a pin with a locking spring clip. We often used a long-hasp padlock.
The black bar is an adapter bar that lets the Duncan mate up to other brand baseplates. If anybody needs the Duncan bar, adapter bar, or extra brackets that I have, let me know.
Another nice job, Bruce! DW was commenting how a Winnebago we looked at, had sliding baskets (essentially drawers) under the seats and it'd be nice to add them. Then we realized how much cubic space would be lost. Adding doors could be helpful, though. Our access is by lifting the cushions and a plywood lid like you have now.
I can see that White is Common to both Fan and Compressor.
Blue powers the Compressor on command of the control box.
For the Fan:
Black should the High Speed
Yellow is probably Medium Speed
Red is probably Low Speed and
Brown must be connected to the FAN capacitor or FAN terminal of a Dual Capacitor
The Common terminal of a Dual Run Cap has to be connected to White
If you have two Run Capacitors, THEN the the Common terminal of a Dual with one side (either Fan or Herm) unused MUST BE JUMPERED to the second terminal of the single replacement capacitor
For Compressor/HERM, that Capacitor lead (corresponding to Brown for the Fan) is RED. You'll see two Red leads on the HERM terminal and the second Red is for your Start Assist. Start Assist requires that PTCR, either built in or another Jumper, then back to Common, making (EDIT) FOUR wires on COM in the diagram. (EDIT) FIVE if you're jumpering to a single replacement capacitor. Since a Capacitor Terminal has but Four Lugs, you can use the terminal you jumpered to as a Common terminal for the extra wires. That'd be Four (with one of them a Jumper) on the Common terminal of the Dual Capacitor, and Two on one terminal of the new single capacitor. Both WHITE. Then Brown for FAN on the other.
Hopefully Doug or Chris can verify that I sent you the correct diagram. Your Model Number IS on the top page.
In case some info suddenly disappeared, I posted some capacitor wiring info to your thread thinking it was the Heat Wave in Texas thread. If you'd like it, I'll put it back here. I was totally punchy last night when I was looking for that for the other OP's thread.
If you can find an electric motor rebuild shop, or a bearing warehouse, I'm sure you can get those bushings. We were on a trip when the motor first started sticking and I waa able to keep it running by oiling/WD'n it daily. Worked on it or a day at home and it was OK on my "bench" (strapped to a board on the kitchen counter). Then it went back to sticking on another trip and I asked Amazon to ship it to the campground. By then I was very good at pulling the motor. Changed it on site. I had drilled the bearing retainer rivets out, soaked the bearings, made new wicking for the oil and no joy. Sometimes the Dragon Wins.
I looked for a diagram and found This manual. Look at Page 12. Also check Chris Bryant's Site.
I printed that Page 12 and will look at it... Later... I've been up at 0300 all week.
Sounding like you had (or now have) multiple issues. That is never easy.
I'll pray you can dig it out.
That happened to me with the FASCO blower motor in our Coleman Mach 15. A/C quit, I found the fan stuck, lubed it with Turbine Oil, ran till the next time it'd been off for awhile. I was lubing it a few times a day till I found WD40 helped it more than the "right oil" but it would still stick, just take a little longer. Took the motor out, dismantled, cleaned bearings. Soaked, washed, crocus clothed shaft and bearings. Reassembled and it STILL STUCK! I can only figure that the sleeve bearing material gets corrupted with something that just won't go away. I don't give up easily but this time I bought a new motor.
I looked at Dometic fan motors, only on Amazon, and noticed some of the kits had tab brackets (but not your numbers) and one of the smooth motors came with bolt-on brackets. Are you sure you have the right cross reference to the new motor?
If you weren't using a GOOD old-fashioned Analog Multi Meter (like a Simpson, Triplett, etc) with a high spec for "Ohms Per Volt" you won't see that "Kick" where the needle moves on the High Ohms scale as the meter's battery charges the capacitor. Even then, you'll only know that the capacitor is neither open nor shorted. It won't tell you the capacity in microfarads/uF. A cheap Analog won't do the test at all. Same for Digital ones unless they have a uF capability.
If you have a new Dual Capacitor, just wire it up like you first found it and save the one that came in the Kit for another day.
Do you have a Wiring Diagram for this A/C? If so, can you post it?
What is the Model Number of this A/C?
So, you have an "entertainment center" featuring a radio in a addition to the one in the cockpit? I ask because I hadn't seen that in a Class C.
It'd help to know if this hole is...
...something missing that needs to be re-installed
...something missing that's unnecessary
This unit came with a combined capacitor and a start capacitor. If I am reading what you are saying right, you are saying that I need to leave those two there and add a third capacitor that came in the kit?
In a word, YES. The new single-value, two-terminal capacitor that came with the new fan motor replaces EITHER:
1. A single Fan Run Capacitor (in which case there are already three capacitors on the unit: Single Fan Run, Single Compressor Run, Compressor Start)
2. One side of a Dual (two in one) Fan Run + Compressor Run capacitor (in which there will be three capacitors: The NEW Single Fan Run, Original Dual Capacitor with only HERM connected, Compressor Start)
In Case 2. the COM terminal of the Dual Capacitor has to be connected to either terminal of the new Single Fan Run Capacitor and the Fan capacitor wires to both terminals of the new capacitor.
You can try using the original Dual Capacitor and hope that the Fan Run side was not the cause of the fan not running. I put a new fan motor in our Coleman Mach. It didn't come with a Capacitor. The new motor runs fine with the original, 14-year-old capacitor. But, two things:
1. I have a meter that can test capacitors and ours tested OK on both sides, Fan and Herm.
2. Our original motor was replaced because of Bearings, not its Windings.
In passing, I still have that Coleman motor. If somebody can use it to salvage one with good bearings that failed electrically, let me know.
I did notice in the kit that this capacitor only has two poles on it. The original capacitor had three, common, fan and herm. The microfarads and voltage is the same as the old one, so I am going to use that one instead of the one that came with the kit, because, there is no way to hook up the compressor.
I'm about to head out now. Say a prayer that all this works. It's hot!
If you have a combined capacitor (Fan, Common, Herm) and the Kit came with a new Fan capacitor, you need a jumper between Common of the combined capacitor, and either terminal of the one in the Kit. Compressor stays connected to Common and Herm. Jumper from Common to the Fan cap from the Kit allows operation of both capacitors (Herm side of original, and the Fan cap from the Kit). Then the capacitor leads from your new Motor go to the two terminals on the cap from the Kit. One terminal will have the Jumper and one Fan wire on it. The other will only have the second Fan wire.
You should get or make up a jumper and use that new capacitor. There's always the chance the original capacitor was the cause or at least part of the problem with the motor.
And I'll pray it works.