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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1133 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Extension Valves on Inside Dually, Yes or No

I'd venture Charles' valves weren't installed properly. As he noted, the instructions say you have to bend that long one to get it through the hand holes and the rubber stabilizer if applicable. I, too, took wheels off and carted all seven to the auto shop on the local Navy base. We went over the Instructions together stressing bending the stems, stacking outer wheel onto inner (and I brought a Simulator as well) to check alignment, and LocTite to keep the mounting nuts tight. Zero problems. I doubt there are many wheels harder to align valves to, than the Fords 1992-2007 with those tiny round holes. Even with simulators that have still smaller holes, my valves line right up. I mount our wheels with the two valves opposite minus one stud. That's because there's a 7/16" hole in the 8-lug pattern between two holes. I threaded those holes 1/2" SAE to match a lug bolt from a trailer. I can "drive" that lug bolt and force stuck wheels off of the hubs. If I lined the two wheels up with valves opposite, those threaded holes would line up. I'd be screwing the wheels together instead of pushing them apart...
j-d 02/20/18 09:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear shock failure

I found this Koni Warranty: "PASSENGER CAR, LIGHT TRUCK & MOTORHOME: KONI North America LLC warrants all new KONI shock absorbers (purchased after 5/1/1980) and suspension kits (purchased after 1/1/1995) to the original retail purchaser for use in the United States and Canada against defects in materials and workmanship, excluding mounting hardware and bushings, when used under normal operating conditions for as long as the original purchaser owns the vehicle registered for street use on which the KONI shock absorbers were originally installed. This warranty does not apply to, and KONI makes no warranty for, shock absorbers and suspension kits that have been: Not purchased new by the current owner. Modified or installed improperly. Bent or broken indicating abuse. Supplied as Original Equipment on any vehicle except 1984-1986 Ford Mustang SVO. Used on any vehicle that has been modified for a use other than or in addition to its originally intended use. Used for an application that is not specified in the KONI literature. Used on any vehicle for racing, off-road, or other driving competition. Exported for use outside the United States and Canada." My conjecture is this: Shock Absorbers should control suspension motion but should NOT be expected to limit that motion. In other words the suspension should bottom out onto something in its design (like a snubber or bumper) leaving some free travel in the shocks. Likewise, something other than the shock should be the topping out limit, other than the shocks. Sp my premise is that based on how your coach's suspension is, the Shocks are either: 1. Too Short Topped or 2. Too Long Bottomed. If the rest of the suspension is right, I'd venture it has the wrong Shocks on it. I don't understand "from new" but it seems if they were furnished with the Chassis, not under warranty. If you installed them after purchasing the coach, should be covered.
j-d 02/20/18 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Extension Valves on Inside Dually, Yes or No

I bought this kit for 2004 Fourwinds 5000 28A back in November 2017, so far so good, very convenient. https://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/7192/dl1ecfr-chrome-duallyvalve-kit-with-front-stems Quoted Link is for the BORG Dually Valves. A few years ago, Camping World started selling them, and the price was VERY good. I don't know if they're still carrying them, or how much of the product line. Fords with the 8 or 10 small "hand holes" (really? infant hand, maybe) were are the greatest need for custom valves. When I bought ours at Six Robblees, it was the only kit they stocked. Four Brass Rear Stems and Two Rubber Stabilizers.
j-d 02/19/18 08:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: DIY Pressure Testing for Rain Leaks

It'll take awhile to get this figured out and built. At first I thought I'd hard wire for fan speed, but reading the SealTech instructions, I need to add a four- (or at least three-) speed switch. The ST apparently uses a fully variable speed motor, but I'm sure one of four speeds will suffice for setting a proper testing pressure. Then the manometer. And of course how to mount and seal the blower to the coach. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions about testing in general, as well as building this machine.
j-d 02/19/18 11:37am Tech Issues
RE: Extension Valves on Inside Dually, Yes or No

Confusion: Cheap screw-on valve extensions can leak and even lead to running soft and tire failure. Custom formed solid metal valve assemblies like Borg Dually valves need to be installed onto each wheel and do not leak, make checking and adding air easy. ^^^Correct^^^ Some OP's have their home brew work-arounds and that's OK. I wanted to be able to both Check Pressure and Add Air with Any Gauge, Any Chuck, and the custom valves accomplish that. My second choice would be Braided Airless Extensions. By Airless, they don't open the actual tire valve till we push a gauge or chuck onto the extension. There's a flexible push rod that accomplishes this. ***BUT*** ONLY if the actual Tire Valves are METAL!!! You don't want any additional weight on "rubber" valves, even those "high pressure" ones.
j-d 02/19/18 10:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Extension Valves on Inside Dually, Yes or No

BORG Dually Valves! I was a skeptic and a procrastinator for several years. I had to add air often and it was difficult to do. I bought ours at Six Robblees, a truck/trailer enthusiast shop, about eight years ago and they have been absolutely wonderful. I added Air-Through Caps so no unscrewing. Just go wheel to wheel. I can check six tires in well under a minute. ***AND*** They rarely need air!
j-d 02/18/18 02:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Weighing a Class C

Do you have the "published" Front and Rear Axle weights from Jayco, or just the total "as built" weight? Even though the model number is "29" the length is over 32-feet. Wheelbase is 223 which suggests to me that Jayco is trying to take advantage of Ford's 5000-lb front axle rating and not overload the rear axle. At least take a test drive to a CAT scale and see for yourself. One, is there enough capacity left, between the empty weight and GVWR of 14,500-pounds, to carry you, your people and your "Stuff." Two, that neither axle is overloaded. Most of what you can load, will put its weight on the Rear.
j-d 02/18/18 02:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Weighing a Class C

Many of the truck stops have CAT Scales that are installed on a trestle above ground, so you can't run one side onto them. A simple in-ground scale (flat with the adjoining pavement) would be best and that will require calling around. A Portable Scale would do it. Could be slightly inaccurate in total axle weight since you're weighing a corner that's a little higher than the other, but it'll call out any major differences. Michelin acknowledges that RV's are often loaded off balance which is why the RV version of their Weight/Pressure Chart uses corners. Still, this is the Gold Standard procedure. You can get very useful information from a CAT Scale. If you tow something, have it hitched up and pull the whole rig on. You'll get Steer (Front of RV), Drive (Rear of RV) and Trailer (Toad, Boat, Trailer, Whatever) and having this is FAR FAR better than no information while you hunt the Perfect Scale. Going CAT Scale fee looks to be $11.00
j-d 02/18/18 10:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DIY Pressure Testing for Rain Leaks

Update... After all these Years + Months, the BLOWER arrived on my doorstep yesterday. I think it's ideal. 1/3-HP 1075-RPM 115-VAC motor with Four Speeds. Uses a Run Capacitor. Out of a system being replaced. I tested it before dismantling to clean and all four work. Smoothly and quietly rearranged a box of aluminum cans I had in the garage to recycle. Blower Wheel is 8" wide by 10-1/2" diameter. I think there used to be more threads, and Explorer's won't come up any more. Will start a new thread in awhile. Projects are stacked up, so this won't be making speedy progress.
j-d 02/17/18 02:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow Bar Receommendation

^^^^ Now There's ^^^^ Excellent Advice! Our gear is all Roadmaster, base plates for two toads, and the tow bar itself. We only bought one base plate new, the rest used. Base plate from eBay, Tow Bar CraigsList. Since "ends" are available to match tow bar brand to base plate brand, I strongly endorse STB's note about installation. By reading the Install Instructions available for every specific base plate, you can determine How it will Look, the attaching Height, and how Invasive the installation is. Makes for a much more intelligent choice. If you decide to install your own base plate, let us know what you decided on and we might have some tips.
j-d 02/17/18 09:40am Dinghy Towing
RE: Battery question

Of course, you can't do ONE 6V battery. You already have One 12V battery. If that isn't enough and you have room: Then, TWO 6V batteries Not Two 12V batteries. The advantage, of course, is that if one 12V goes bad, you can still use the other. The problem is, two 12's don't seem to play as well together as two 6's do. So in theory you have redundancy with two 12's, but in practicality, you're more likely to have both 12's go bad, than with a pair of 6's.
j-d 02/16/18 11:43am Tech Issues
RE: Acme EZE Tow Brake Problems

I ordered another that is wider and more HD. That'll fix it! Thanks for the Update!
j-d 02/16/18 11:34am Dinghy Towing
RE: 30 amp & 20 amp to make 50 amp

I've worked on 50A campground pedestals, but I didn't notice if the 30A and 20A receptacles were on opposite legs of the 50. If it's 30A only, then only one leg is available so 30 and 20 would be on the same leg, the same CG circuit, same CG breaker... Bud's point above is oft understood. 30A x 120V = 3600 Watts, but 50A is served by TWO 50A circuits so it's really 100A and 50 x 120 = 6000 TIMES TWO or 12000 WATTS! That's why going from 30 to 50 is such a game changer.
j-d 02/16/18 05:21am Tech Issues
RE: Onan 5500 Marquis Gold generator problems

I'd sure be careful about running the genny any extended period of time without its OEM shrouding in place. It's intended to put the air flow where it needs to be, to cool (careful, j-d typed cooK!) critical components. It might help to post complete Model (be sure to include Spec Code!) and Serial Number. We had a few genny techs who'd really dig into our problems, but most of them have migrated. That was largely because we didn't post that Name Plate Info. Model, Spec, Serial, and we often didn't provide a good problem statement or follow up on their advice. Many have stayed active on SmokStak.com packpack has stuck with it here, and THANKS!!! One thing we can usually provide is the OEM ONAN Service Manual and it includes Troubleshooting. You know what we need to look up specifics... That Flight Systems page is indeed helpful, more for some models than others.
j-d 02/16/18 05:04am Tech Issues
RE: Onan 5500 Marquis Gold generator problems

Duplicate, see next post...
j-d 02/16/18 05:01am Tech Issues
RE: Is this the right engine??

The 5.4 is 80% of the V10. Ford added two cylinders that V8 to approach "big block" displacement without running a big block production line. I've driven a rental truck with 5.4 and it was a decent engine.
j-d 02/15/18 08:55am Class C Motorhomes
RE: I did it again....

Not an electronics person in any way. I've heard of "AC Ripple" with CB Power Supplies. You could set your DVOM on an AC setting, put it across a 12 Volt DC circuit, and see traces of AC Voltage. That may be the possibility mentioned above. Remember, it's my belief that If GOD wanted me working on Electrons He would have made them Big Enough to See. In the simpler electric (vs electronic) world I function a little better in, I have a nagging worry that the GROUND circuit has a high resistance (loose or corroded) somewhere. Yes, the Exterior 12 VDC Marker Lights, Turn/Stop/Tail get the HOT side from the tow vehicle and House Circuit (like Inverter) from the House Battery. BUT they share the ground side.
j-d 02/14/18 05:14am Tech Issues
RE: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

When James A. Ryder was kicked out of the Ryder (Family) Rental Truck business, he returned to the market himself as JARTran. Fleet was mostly Cube Vans and the majority of those were on Dodge chassis. There were three odd problems: 1. They weren't air conditioned, and for some reason that belt configuration liked to sling a belt. V-Belt and when one came off it kicked the rest off too 2. Pregnant Mufflers. Clogged up with rust flakes and cut exhaust flow to where the truck could barely move. 3. Inordinate number of them had Engine Fires. These traced to leaking ThermoQuads. For that reason, I'd advise finding something else that would fit and work. I've had Carter AFB on a Chevy Impala, and a derivative called Weber on the Chevy engine in our boat. So for me, the AFB successors like Performer would be one of my first looks. Runs well and less risky. That, and less hunting in vintage stuff for parts...
j-d 02/13/18 05:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dashboard Amp gauge reading high.

I looked VR up for a 1990 B250 with 318 or 360 engine and both showed the flat firewall mounted solid state regulator we had on our 1970's B300 used. In that van, there was a little VR on the back of the instrument cluster. I'd get erratic readings if it was bad, OR the ground connection was loose. Small metal-cased thing, not much bigger than the small automotive circuit breakers. If I became alarmed at rising Coolant Temp, I'd notice I also had More Gas and Higher Oil Pressure than just awhile ago. Knew it was time to work on the Cluster. I don't remember if the Ammeter was also affected.
j-d 02/12/18 09:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Using the front Bumper to park a TT vs the Rear Bumper?

If you use the Ram 4x4 to park your TT, I'm sure a front hitch would help. I agree with the note above: To hancle a TT, you need a good solid hitch, not some bumper clamp thing that might be OK for a 16-ft boat. When we had a Dodge van, I adapted a Frame/Bumper hitch as a front hitch for it. Made boat parking so much easier. If you park it with that Sammy, front hitch would help but no where like it would on the Ram. The higher the ratio of Towed Wheelbase (hitch to wheels) to the the Towing Wheelbase, the more maneuverable you are. Tractor/Trailer is best case. Motorhome with a little U-Haul is worst case.
j-d 02/10/18 09:17pm Tech Issues
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