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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1102 matches.

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RE: I need help!

i think everybody is using hunter not honeywell ...and the above diagram is for the Hunter, that $20 WalMart one... and it's connecting to Duo-Therm, not Dometic...
j-d 04/20/14 08:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Michelin LTX M/S2's - good or bad?

A very popular OEM tire from the world's iconic tire manufacturer. All the chatter about the recent recall confirms that Mic stands behind their products. The only time I would shy away from LTX series might be when they need to run at or near max load/max pressure. Your size coach doesn't approach that. Some have said that LTX develops sidewall checkering sooner than other brands. Again, I think you are safe. Based on your northern latitude, you don't get the sunlight and heat that many of us do. Finally, they're M/S rated, good if you get caught in a light snow... I'd say Get'em.
j-d 04/20/14 04:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C slideout problem

Good thing about Winnebago products is you can access detailed wiring diagrams and parts lists. What is the exact model? Go to gowinnebago.com then "owners" and start looking for diagrams. Probably would need to print them out. Should give an idea where to start looking. In addition to the Reset (a circuit breaker?) is there also a Fuse or another Breaker?
j-d 04/20/14 01:36pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Do all size 78 engine batteries mount identically at base?

What Matt said. Just beware of one twist - In a few battery "Groups" the Terminals can be switched, where the "+" and "-" terminals of the Replacement are on opposite ends from the Original. Probably not in Group 78. We don't have a Costco membership but we do have Sam's Club. Batteries are one of those things you seem to have to shop every time you need one. We were getting vehicle batteries along with RV "House" batteries at Sam's. This last time it turned out WalMart was the better deal, at least for Chassis batteries. Then we needed a House battery right at the start of a trip and it came out WM again. Sometimes one from an "auto parts store" worked out better but not so much lately. Prices centered on $100, no-cost exchange, 3-yr on Chassis and 1-yr on House. EDIT - The "Groups" are set by a council called BCI (Battery Council International) and this is their BCI Group Chart. The GP78 has only one terminal layout. It was the GP24 and GP27 that I remember getting jammed up on.
j-d 04/20/14 08:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dexter Self-Adjusting Brakes?

http://www.easternmarine.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/2/5268_st.jpg Plenty of pix of these brakes but I haven't seen any focusing on the adjuster. This Page describes break-in and there are a couple links from it to other info about the brakes. From what I've seen on automotive drum brakes and read so far here, a saw-toothed adjust wheel PLUS a lever meshing into it indicate a self-adjusting brake. I haven't tracked this issue, so I don't know if there's a backward-adjusting version or only the Forward Self Adjust (FSA) we're talking about here.
j-d 04/19/14 09:26am Tech Issues
RE: Traveling with battery inside

Exactly. A Battery Box. Then pack stuff around the battery box so it can't slide around and possibly get up enough speed to overturn. Even empty cardboard boxes. We might panic stop faster than we'd accelerate so start out with it "flat" (long side) against the front end of the compartment.
j-d 04/18/14 06:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dexter Self-Adjusting Brakes?

Eastern Marine has lots of brake parts and runs pretty good sales. Worthwhile to get on their email list. At least with the smaller brakes, it's very cost effective to replace the whole assembly than fool around with Shoes, Magnets, Hardware...
j-d 04/18/14 03:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Dexter Self-Adjusting Brakes?

I was interested to read the self adjust works in FORWARD. That's wonderful as we don't to that many Forward-Stop/Backward-Stop maneuvers as needed to adjust the old-school automotive self-adjust brakes. To me, a self-adjust feature for RV use that didn't adjust in normal driving would not be worth having.
j-d 04/18/14 01:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Dual wheel inflation

For what it's worth, those of you (used to be "us") checking/adding air frequently will find that checking becomes easier and adding becomes infrequent with the all-brass Tire-Man or Borg custom stems. I replaced our rubber valves and assorted extenders with Borg. What I was after was ease. I had to try and hold the extender, usually with pliers, then apply the air chuck and operate its handle. That's one hand more than the Lord gave me. With the metal stems and easy access, checking is a couple minutes to do all six, and actually adding air is more like Twice a YEAR! I added Air-Through Caps, so like Harvey, no cap twiddling needed. Those caps come with the Tire-Man kits but I got some separately from a tire shop for mine. Work-Arounds are fun to do and talk about, but custom brass really is Da-Bomb!
j-d 04/18/14 11:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV 3157 Stop & Tail Bulb -- LED Plug and Play?

Having a little trouble figuring out why you asked... please let us know how it worked out, and the eBay seller you used.
j-d 04/17/14 07:57am Tech Issues
RE: Anyone use a 12 inch drop for toad?

Be sure any drop/rise you get has a gusset to link the vertical and horizontal sections. Not just welded where they butt together. http://accessories.etrailer.com/thumb.php?f=http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/A/M/AMSC12_tn.jpg&s=150 width=150 You can barely see it but there's a triangle of steel supporting the joint. That much drop will magnify looseness in the receiver to the point you will likely need a stabilizer bracket to take the play out. Too much play at the ball and the toad will try to bump steer the back of the coach.
j-d 04/16/14 09:46pm Dinghy Towing
RE: LONG rear valve stems .....10" to 12"?

Those grommets are part of both Chuck's long-stem kits and the Borg kits from YourTireSupply, SixRobblees and others. For Ford, it's important to get the chassis year right. For years they used the 8-Round-Hand-Hole style and recently went back to 4-REAL-Hand-Hole as pictured above. I believe the valves themselves might be the same for both wheel types, but the Grommets are clearly different.
j-d 04/16/14 06:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C tire rotation

I believe in reversing the rotational direction on regular rotations. If a set of tires had NEVER been rotated in 40,000 miles or so, I might not do it, but I believe there's a benefit. The tread blocks get a "tooth" to them that reversal will smooth back off. Then it forms in that rotation direction. That's part of the reason old tires may seem noisier. They are, because of that pattern. I was lucky to spend nearly an hour with a couple tire professionals. They showed me a lot and told me a lot. One thing was that if front tires are edge-worn, a move to the rear duals should include putting the worn edge next to the other dual tire. In our case, fronts were edge-worn on the inside ribs, so they had to be "flipped" which also reversed rotation, to get them into that position on the rear. All that said, my understanding is that Ford doesn't recommend rotating the rear tires on a routine basis. But I like rotating the fronts, especially if a spare can be worked into a three-tire pattern.
j-d 04/16/14 06:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV 3157 Stop & Tail Bulb -- LED Plug and Play?

In addition to the luminosity Mex mentioned, there's what I'll call Directionality, or Focus. By that I mean that an incandescent bulb's filament shines 360* but LED's are directional. The lamp manufacturer still builds their reflector and lens to capture the light off the filament in the very best position. But sticking an LED in the socket for an incandescent is quite likely to waste a lot of the emitted light. Our Class C had the Bargman 84/85/86 lights. Two Red Tail/Stop/Turn lenses with a clear Backup lens between. I bought complete Bargman replacement assemblies. Did away with the Bulbs AND the Socket Problems I was having. Not cheap, but they pop your eyes out on Stop and Turn.
j-d 04/16/14 05:22pm Tech Issues
RE: exploded battery

I think that it was being charged, which causes hydrogen bubbles. But something failed inside the battery, like a cell connector. Since it was being charged, there was a spark and it detonated the hydrogen/air mix above the electrolyte. In any event you should sanitize the area with baking soda and water. You may find some of the paint comes off. And, agree with the others, good thing you are replacing both batteries. It's possible, of course, that the spark came from the outside of the battery too. Like a short got across it or to ground. Or a connection right by the battery went bad. I blew a battery up testing a starter once. Made a BANG, lifted the top, split the sides, and let the electrolyte out.
j-d 04/15/14 07:21pm Tech Issues
RE: LONG rear valve stems .....10" to 12"?

Good news! And a kinda funny, too, since YourTireSupply is now the outlet for Chuck's competitor, "Borg" Dually Valves. That confirms what so many have said here: Chuck Carvitto is a Good Guy!
j-d 04/15/14 07:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Four Winds Freedom Elite questions

...and having them installed by a shop... Jim Where's the Fun in THAT?
j-d 04/15/14 04:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Copper sleeve?

I use an old-fashioned electric Soldering Iron. Takes about 10 minutes to heat up. You could wrap the insulation in a wet rag, then quench the soldered connection with the wet rag once it was done. Or, slide some heat-shrink tubing WELL UP the insulation, well away from heat. Slide it into place once everything is cool then heat to lock it down.
j-d 04/15/14 12:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Cruise Control Problems

The VSS isn't a switch, but YES, the VSS can cause cruise to not work and the ABS warning to light. That's why I suggested changing VSS (or at least cleaning it as Bryan mentioned).
j-d 04/14/14 11:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cruise Control Problems

That VSS is held down with one capscrew, 10MM head probably. It's sealed with an O-Ring under it, and has a quick-disconnect plug onto it. Be sure the area isn't caked with dirt, and it's an easy Remove/Inspect/Replace. If I had one to do, I'd clean the area around it with a small wire brush and/or hose it down with Brake Parts Cleaner. As I recall, a new VSS does not come with that O-Ring. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21cZsIATK2L.jpg width=150 The upper right end goes inside the diff housing and it "looks" at the Ring Gear going around. For $15 delivered to my door, I'd put a new VSS in the thing before I messed with the steering wheel switches, especially with that ABS warning in addition to the cruise issue. Amazon Link for 1994 E350/7.5L VSS
j-d 04/14/14 10:26am Class C Motorhomes
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