Beemerphile nailed it. Replace the assemblies or don't bother.
I got this type here They look like this
except I got the triples with backup lights. $50 each for the ones pictured and $60 each for the triples.
And they are AWESOME!!!
Nice thing about Class C's (at least Ford-based ones) is that pretty much any auto parts store will have pads. I had a caliper lock up in a small town and the parts store had Pads, Calipers, and Hoses on hand.
If Bryan says those NAPA pads are the good ones, then that's what to get. His suggestions are always solid.
But let me mention, I went with another of Bryan's suggestions and replaced our entire front axle assembly (same as yours) with a late model takeoff assembly. Key time to do it would be if your Rotors, Ball Joints, or other major parts need replacement. All our stuff was OK. I'd in fact done a full front brake job and still have those good parts. I did the swap to improve capacity, braking, and handling. All of that worked out and I'm glad I did it.
Sure. Install a Residential Wall T'Stat supplied by a Transformer that matches the Energize Coil of a heavy duty Relay. Wire the Contact side of the Relay into the Power Source of the A/C. Set the Fan Knob to High or Low Cool. Then turn the Temp Knob all the ay to MAX. It'll run when the new 'Stat tells it to and shut down when the 'Stat is satisfied.
That thread's a good one. As noted there, for openers:
What are the Coach's Length and Wheelbase?
What are the Front and Rear Axle Ratings (GAWR) and what are the actual weights per a truck scale?
What are your Tire Pressures?
Ford's position on this? Low REAR ride height? If it's new and low, I'd guess it's close to max axle rating on the rear. That might mean it's light in front, or at least that the front tire pressures could be too high. If you meant the REAR is low, that's more unusual than the rear being high. If the rear is low it might be too soft for the load. If it's too soft for the load, the REAR may wallow and sway. In a FORD chassis, rear sway or rolling causes an unwanted steering action in the front. Hence my questions...
As Bryan aptly mentions, excess front tire pressure can run from annoying to disastrous. Make sure all four rears are inflated to the door sticker pressure. That'd be max load and it's possible that's what's on the rear. The front tires shouldn't be over 60 or 65 and that's for max load. I'd be very surprised from what you're reporting that the front axle is anywhere near max load.
In my limited experience with fivers, the Charge Line from the Truck (via the Seven-Pin Connector) delivers Very Little Power back to the Trailer. I guess Wire Size and Length contributes to this, and maybe the Truck's Voltage Regulator senses that ITS Battery (Under the Hood of the Truck) has been charged so it tapers voltage down to less than ideal for the long wire run to the Trailer.
What I'm saying is if we'd been dry camping, could drive all day, hundreds of miles, and NOT top off the Trailer's Battery Charge. What that implies is even if your Fridge is Three-Way (120VAC, LPG, 12VDC), running it on 12VDC will draw the battery voltage down and the charge line won't restore it. Low Voltage means Less Wattage means Less Cooling.
Roadmaster's website will let you know if what you have now will fit the vehicle you're buying. Maybe you can just swap your current stuff to the new vehicle. "Welded" sounds home-made to me. Most baseplate kits are designed to be bolted. Usually using existing holes, sometimes enlarging holes, occasionally drilling new ones.
Here's one that plugs into the laptop's USB. So it's powered by the laptop battery or brick. The "+" in the model number means it offers higher resolution than ASUS model without "+" and others listed on Amazon where I searched "USB MONITOR." Still "only 15.6-in" though. I'm happy with that size monitor and I think the ASUS linked here is aimed at tablet users.
I remain perplexed at the question, at what OP is trying to accomplish.
It's a Coleman Rooftop, not ducted? With Controls on the Unit? That's what we have. Two knobs. One Knob is OFF, Low Fan, High Fan, Low Cool, High Cool. When it's in "Cool" the Second Knob is Temperature. Fan runs in its Low or High setting and Compressor cycles.
Just trying to figure out what's wrong with that and what OP wants to change. If he wants the Fan to cycle WITH the Compressor (totally OFF when Second Knob doesn't call for cooling, there's a thread here where somebody did that with a Relay. I think, though, that temperature sensing would be erratic with the Fan Off.
Then others have not wanted the Compressor and Fan to start in unison on other A/C's because of the two start demands thrown onto the generator at once. They've added an electronic delay to let the Compressor start first and kick the Fan on a couple seconds later.
At least for me, I'd need more info to try and understand the current status and the desired outcome.
Daughter's Subaru has a panel like that with a similar little access point. About can't get a wrench on the filter and drain plug with it in place. And when I do, the oil doesn't oblige by coming out only through that hole. I just take the whole thing off.
That 496/8.1 isn't that rough on gas when running with a light load. Don't hold me to this, but I honestly believe the Class C chassis with 8.1 did not also get the Allison transmission like the Pickup chassis did. At least Ford provided TorqShift in both of the product lines. Not to say the GM HydraMatic is a bad unit. Just not competitive with Allison and TorqShift on a features basis. More like Ford's 4R100. Never heard of somebody with 454 GM or 460 Ford in a Class C complaining about lack of power. Ford's V10 is supposed to perform better than the two old V8's, then the 8.1 beyond that.
Gene, I continue to rejoice that you're pleased with your 5.7's performance. I continue to express caution that, in general, the 5.7 in a Class C is at the upper limits of its capabilities. We have a 1996 5.7 EFI in our boat. One person on board, it's HOT. Two it's Great. Three it's OK. Four it's a Dog.
Engine Swap Cautions:
1. Be sure the 350 and 454 use the same CHASSIS. That's right, Chassis. I do NOT know about GM, but when we had a Dodge, I went to replace the anemic 318 engine. What I wanted was a 383 big block but wound up with a 360 small block. A man who had worked for Dodge told me "Good Thing - They used different crossmembers for the Slant Six, the Small V8, and the Big V8.
2. Particularly if you have to emissions test, you're on track about Donor Vehicle. It is VERY possible that not only is the Engine Control Module different, the wiring harness might also be different. This may go deeper than you want to cut.
Counterintuitive that the 350/5.7L will fall short and the new 6.0L does a decent job, but true. It's a different engine, not just 0.3L displacement.
If you want to get radical, you can Stroke your 350 to 6.2L (377, 383, something like that. Also years ago there was a 400-CID small block. I think it was a special block, though, not something you can create from a 350.
Any case, you'd have to allow for, or be sure the ECM allowed for, greater fuel demand from the larger engine.
This looks like a 50-AMP coach, but I'll still share what's been found on 30A units with Shore Tie permanently wired to the coach on the coach end:
The Wire Nut Connections in the Flexible Shore Tie to Hard Coach Wiring fail. If there's a junction box where Shore Tie enters Coach, look there.
Looks like the rolled edges in the pic can chafe both the Red wires at the top and at least one of the Black wires at the bottom.
The pic is SW6 series. Is this the model OP found the problem with?
I think a split piece of hose/tubing over the sharp edge would be a good safety.
Blue Ox is a cleaner looking setup than (at least most) Roadmaster setups. RM may have recently caught up, but with BO you'd disconnect the coach-mounted towbar, un-twist a couple adapters and have a clean toad. Most RM owners left the adapters and crossbar in place because it's a pain to remove three pieces. You'll recognize them because their car looks like it has a snowplow frame on it. That said, I'm convinced RM makes the structurally stronger setups.
The Ready Brute lineup from Night Shift Auto is another outstanding product and offers integrated braking.
You can use one brand's bar with another brand's baseplate. My advice is to look at the baseplate kits on-line. Parts list and install instructions. You'll get an idea how it ties to your specific toad and what it'll look like when done. Also there's a Degree of Difficulty giving you an idea if you want to DIY or how time consuming/invasive it'll be for pro install.
I guess a vacuum leak could do this. We had an older C with a carbureted 460. Long time ago, but I remember the Cruise had to be supplied by Manifold Vacuum not Ported Vacuum. If the Cruise is using vacuum to control the Throttle and the Throttle is changing the Vacuum, you can guess it isn't going to go smoothly.
Also, our EGR valve failed, rusted out. When we replaced it, the system got out of whack again. I fixed that with an improvised "vacuum restrictor."
Looking at Amazon, they have several new cruise units around $200. 21st century electronic design.
I went out and looked at ours. Really couldn't find much to suggest. I take it the hood won't come off the fully closed part of the latch. Bouncing down on the hood, or bouncing down and tugging up, WHILE the inside handle is pulled, might get it to release.
The release cable runs from driver side, of course, just below the radiator support. It can be reached from the upper outer (driver side, near the headlight) opening in the grille. But then what? Person in front could tug on it while person inside tugs on the handle. You could reach in and cut it, then strip it down to pull on the core with vise grips, but my guess is the problem is in the latch mechanism not the cable. I could just touch the lower driver side corner of the latch, which is where the cable attaches with one screw. I do NOT think it'd be likely to catch the core, to the right (passenger side) of that screw with a hook made from a coat hanger or the like.
DID look like removing the wipers and air inlet grille to get at the hinges would work but the latch likely won't let go of the hood. Here's what I suggest:
1. Talk to a Service Manager or Assistant Manager at a Ford Dealer
2. Or perhaps a Locksmith who does vehicle lockouts - Or a Body Shop
3. Post the question on an auto forum like batauto.com since this problem is the same for all Ford Van types across a range of years
I got the white version of
from Amazon under $30. It's a quarter-turn "washerless" faucet. The old ones use brass washer cartridges which Amazon sells and are probably available at big box stores.