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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1234 matches.

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RE: Amish cooling unit failed

V's remark x2 Just about any company, restaurant etc. can put a good front end on the experience. What they do when something goes wrong separates the great outfits from the rest of the pack.
j-d 09/02/14 07:40am Tech Issues
RE: Air conditioner filter (I'm a smoker)

I've been making replacement filters out of "30-day" home central A/C filters. The ones with the random strands, fiberglass I suppose. They catch dust, are washable, don't seem to restrict... But I'm sure there's no odor scrubbing.
j-d 09/02/14 06:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: electric choke on Holley Carb

That's right. If you can't figure out what Ford did OEM, you can get a "Bosch" relay from Radio Shack and use it to power the choke heater when the ignition key is in Run.
j-d 08/31/14 07:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Refrig. won't run on AC

If the fridge is Three-Way (LPG + 120VAC + 12VDC) then it'll have a 12VDC element in addition to the 120VAC one. Three-Ways aren't all that common anymore. The 120VAC element tests across its two wire. The 12VDC element tests one wire to ground (its shell). If a 120VAC element has continuity to its shell, it's bad.
j-d 08/31/14 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: What C's have 25' widebody plans like this?

Very hard to find a true "C" (kind with a full cabover) that is NOT widebody.
j-d 08/31/14 07:15am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Coleman Mach 15000 BTU A/C Issue - Electrical in Nature

Good Pix! You have separate RUN Capacitors for Fan and Compressor. The 7.5@370-VAC is Fan and the 45@370 is Compressor (sometimes called HERM for the hermetically sealed part which is the compressor and coils). If you replace either of those, you can use xx@440-VAC as well. You can go UP on capacitor rated voltage just not down. Picture your photo of the yellow wiring diagram turned 90* to the Left so it's right-side-up. The dotted-line box on the Left side of the diagram shows an optional Start Assist with a PTCR device. THAT IS WHAT YOU HAVE INSTALLED. A SUPCO SPP6 would be equivalent. The dotted box in the middle shows a Start Assist also, but with Potential Relay. That is the better system. That device called "5-2-1 Compressor Saver" is an aftermarket Potential Relay system. The SUPCO SPP6e "E-Class" approximates what a Potential Relay does, just not quite as well. OK, starting... If you don't have too low a voltage or insufficient amperage (including too light a power/extension cord), it is of course possible your compressor is failing. More likely: 1. RUN Capacitor is Bad 2. PTCR or Start Capacitor is Bad I'd say, IF you're at a good power source, 1. Disconnect Power 2. Short across Start Capacitor (the plastic one) 3. Short across Compressor Run Capacitor (the 45 one) 4. Remove the Red and Yellow Wires from the Compressor Run Capacitor that lead back to the Start Assist (black Capacitor with that little PTCR cube. Be sure they don't get against any other terminals. 5. Restore Power 6. Start A/C 7. Starts Better? Discard Start Assist Capacitor and PTCR. Replace with 5-2-1 or SPP6e starting at Step 1 8. Still Starts Poorly? Start at Step 1 and Replace 45@370 with a new 45@370 or 45@440 capacitor 9. Repeat A/C test starting Step 5 10. Better? GOOD. At this point you can re-connect Start Assist and try again. You may or may not notice a quicker start, probably won't unless you get to a generator or lower voltage/amperage shore tie. OR, you can upgrade to 5-2-1 or SPP6e. I would not settle for another PTCR Start Assist like SPP6 if I was replacing a bad one. 11. Report Back! 12. Happy Weekend!
j-d 08/30/14 10:53am Tech Issues
RE: onan generator won't run for long under load

Please post the entire Model and Serial numbers. The last character of Model is called Spec and it's very important in troubleshooting an ONAN.
j-d 08/30/14 08:22am Tech Issues
RE: Holley 4 barrel carburetor problem

Ours was a few years older, but as I try to recall, the choke housing had a heat tube down to the intake manifold. Again recall, but the intake had an exhaust crossover to heat the carburetor base, and the that heat tube worked off of it. THEN the Choke Cover (the black Bakelite piece with the thermostatic coil in it) incorporated a thermostatic switch. It would not start to pull the choke off till the engine was well on its way to warmed up. A carb specialty shop sold me a "fast choke" which had no thermostatic switch. Choke heater came on as soon as the engine was running. Living in the Sunny South, I didn't need all that warm-up process. The Air Intake also had thermo stuff. A "Stove" over the passenger side exhaust manifold, with tubing to a "box" between radiator support and air filter. Replaced all that with 4-inch flexible dryer vent tubing.
j-d 08/30/14 05:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Holley 4 barrel carburetor problem

This FTE Thread puts the idle adjustment screws in the carburetor base plate (throttle plate) behind metal plugs.
j-d 08/29/14 09:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Holley 4 barrel carburetor problem

Related to navegator's comment - At least on ours, the carburetor sat on a thick gasket on top of an EGR Plate. The Plate sat on a thin gasket on top of the Intake Manifold itself. We all replace that thick "carb gasket" but that other gasket can burn through and be a vacuum leak under there. In our case, the thin gasket was shot, but part of the reason why was the plate had rusted tight to the mounting studs. When I tightened the stud nuts on top of the carb, I was crushing the thick gasket OK, but not the thin one.
j-d 08/29/14 07:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire problem (?)

Now that the air's right and the wheels are tight, IF it still has the shakes, try stopping in a safe place then get out and see if a brake is hot. It is entirely possible that a caliper is sticking.
j-d 08/29/14 02:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Carri Go wheel base

Welcome, Helen! If it has a "Coach Body" it's a Class C. Some call them "B+" but technically a B is build inside or mostly inside a panel van's body. A C, whether it has cabover bunk or just a fairing with entertainment center, is built on a CutAway van chassis. The factory sheet metal stops at the door frames, doesn't even have a back wall. Coach body takes over from there. There may be a sticker in the door frame from the coach builder saying what the "new" wheelbase is if the chassis was stretched. Ours has two stickers. One from Ford saying 158" and one from Jayco saying 218" for a 60"/5-ft stretch. It's also stretched behind the axle. I'd guess yours is an original 158" but it's easy to measure. Drop lines from the centers of the front and rear hubs to the ground, measure between them.
j-d 08/29/14 09:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Drivablity of Class C?

dgantz, You simply MUST: 1. Load as if for Travel 2. Get at least Front and Rear Axle WEIGHTS. A truck stop CAT scale will do that. Four Corner Weights are better but the scale is harder to find. Call a commercial scale sales/service company and see if they can ID one that will weigh you. 3. Adjust Tire Pressure (especially FRONT) to Actual Weight using a Load/Pressure Chart, and I doubt Front pressure will be more than around 55. 4. If you still don't like it, get a Front End Alignment and ask that CASTER be set toward the top of the range NOT the middle like most do. You want at least 5* on the Left. The Right should then be at least 5.5* 5. Make sure there is no play in the tow rig. A "drop receiver" is a top suspect. You want less than 1/2" "side slop" in the tow bar, receiver, connections to the towed vehicle, etc. If your towed vehicle has a badly worn front suspension/steering, it will try to weave behind the coach and throw it off track. THEN go try again. A Rear Track Bar is probably the most helpful for the issue you're having. SuperSteer has one, so does BlueOX, and Brazzel's does as well.
j-d 08/29/14 07:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: another newbie needs advice

Will the Floor Plan meet your needs? The Phoenix Cruiser is an above-average Class C in terms of design and features.
j-d 08/29/14 06:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Generac Impact plus-36 plus II, Mo#00941-2

Thanks for including the Model Number information. Lots of folks forget or just don't know how important it is. Repeated here in case somebody misses it in Title: Impact plus-36 plus II, Mo#00941-2 We have many more Onan Helpers than Generac Helpers, so I hope somebody will be able to lend a hand. Meanwhile, smokstak.com has a Generac section...
j-d 08/29/14 05:12am Tech Issues
RE: Air compressor

Path of least resistance: HF has 95275 on coupon sale $39.99. Getting another one. If I get another 7 years use it's a bargain.
j-d 08/28/14 08:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Onan no start

Please post the complete Model and Serial Numbers. The Spec Code (last character in Model Number) is particularly important. With that info, somebody here should be able to send you a Service Manual.
j-d 08/27/14 08:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Air compressor

Our little HF 95275 died today. Well, more like heart failure and barely alive. RV spare was inflated low by the tire shop, about 60 PSI and I wanted a full 80. Compressor did it. Today I inflated five trailer tires from 45 to 50. Fine. Got through three van tires going from 30 to 35 and nope, no more than 30 PSI. A friend on another forum had one quit on him. Found the "Piston Ring" is a donut made of felt fabric, not available as a repair part. For the price I may just go ahead and get another HF compressor. But before I do, what do you guys like that 1. has a tank, 2. at least 100 PSI, 3. No Taller than 13"...?
j-d 08/27/14 04:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Towing a VW Beetle or? on an Acme Tow Dolly

I should have added, to answer your Dolly Security Question, there are ANY Number of "trailer locks" that secure your Coupler, hobble your Wheel(s) etc. etc. Just saw a trailer lock that was sort of like the "Boot" that police use against repeat parking offenders. http://www.easternmarine.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/6/1616016_lg.jpg I think a piece of quality chain through a hole in a wheel and around the dolly frame, secured with a good padlock, would be a good approach.
j-d 08/27/14 09:34am Dinghy Towing
RE: Refrigerator drain line

Found a manual HERE. I see where it's two-door side-by-side so my experience and confidence factors have now dropped to Zero. I ran Search on the .pdf and got no hits on Defrost or Drain...
j-d 08/27/14 07:36am Tech Issues
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