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RE: Dual Receiver with 6" Drop??
With adding adapters/extenders/drops, the final assembly may flop aroung a little because the play in all the pieces will add up. This may call for one of those clamp gadgets that lock the pieces to the hitch itself. Both BlueOx and RoadMaster offer them. RM's is called QuietHitch and offers this pic
http://roadmasterinc.com/img/quiet_installed.png
I couldn't find BOx's version but the last time I did, I liked it better. They offer one model that clamps in the side-to-side as well as top-to-bottom directions.
I mention this because if there's a Tow Bar involved, you don't want it wobbling at the connection point or it'll encourage toad to bump steer the back of the coach.
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j-d
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05/25/13 05:52am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Dead in the Water
Any chance the new battery was installed with the connections reversed?
Of course, battery could be bad, DOA.
There are probably also some fusible links in the wiring, but I'd have to go look for them and can't do that till later.
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j-d
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05/24/13 11:12am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Paranoid!
My belief is the digital odometers are hard to change outside of a specialized shop. I also believe that extremely low mileage is a warning flag for used RVs. Within limits, they are better off if driven, particularly on frequent trips like one or two a month all year. The RV House has many systems that are better off being used. Same true of chassis, like brakes and tires.
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j-d
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05/24/13 11:09am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: HELP !!!!!!
Get a Service Manual. Some of the guys here have a link. I have it on file as .pdf so if you don't get the link, PM me with your email ID and I can email it to you as file attachment.
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j-d
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05/24/13 05:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to Replace Norcold freezer door hinge assembly?
Without seeing it, can you Zip Tie the Spring then cut the Tie once it's in place or close to it?
Chris Bryant has a lot of manuals up on bryantrv.com and maybe yours is there. Our N811 has no springs, but the door is so non-rigid that we have to push the lower corner of the door with a knee when we latch the door.
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j-d
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05/24/13 05:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging issue on 1983 Jamboree Class C
"...that broken wire..."
Sounded to me like wiring was at least part of the problem. Do you have a Rear Terminal or Side Terminal Alternator? Our '83 E350/460 had a small frame rear terminal alternator. In fact I still have a reconditioned spare. An OP here bought my spare starter but he had a larger frame alternator so he couldn't use mine. Anyhow... Ford tried a Side Terminal, Plug-In alternator. I believe it also had internal regulator. But my point here is that Ford had wiring failures between the main terminal of the alternator and the rest of the wiring. That heavy wire would look OK but be Open. The side terminal connector would also burn out.
I think somebody has highly modified your alternator/regulator/charging wiring. On ours, which was stock, the Starter Solenoid was on the inside fender well right next to the short end of the battery. The external regulator was on the back side of the radiator support, next to the long side of the battery.
I carried a spare Starter, Alternator, and Regulator. Relocated the Regulator to a spot near the Solenoid so I could change it without having to lift the battery out. On ours, the Alternator was mounted on the same bracket as the A.I.R. "smog pump." The long bolt through the Alternator into the Block was too long to pull out without damaging the back of the Radiator Core. I found that if I took the topmost bolt out of the Alt/AIR bracket out first and stuck a long drywall screw in that hole, I could remove all the other bolts. Then back the long bolt out of the block and swing the Alternator to the side enough to pull the bolt out. That kept me from having to dismantle the whole bracket or support the weight of the entire assembly in my hands. The threads of the drywall screw would snag on the bolt threads in the engine so it wouldn't slide out like a nail might.
I changed the Starter in a state park ranger station parking lot, the Regulator on a roadside, and the Alternator on a campsite.
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j-d
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05/24/13 05:26am |
Tech Issues
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RE: no power inside my 1994 Fleetwood Tioga class C
Your 12VDC Converter/Charger is being supplied by the 120VAC from Shore Tie or Generator. When it doesn't have that 120VAC, it isn't connecting your battery to the 12VDC outlets. I hope it's not because you got the polarity reversed, which isn't all that hard to do. Our Jayco has only one Negative Cable to the House Battery, but FOUR to the Positive of the Battery. A couple of those were corroded and not making contact. It'd also be easy to leave one or two of the four off. I taped the four together to form a bundle. The terminals still have to be put on the battery post, but at least I keep them where I can find them all.
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j-d
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05/23/13 09:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Failed Smog Test
You sound like you know what you're doing but I'd be remiss not to say:
BE CAREFUL!
A friend was badly burned working on one of these E-Series. Yes, he'd messed with the wiring, that kept the fuel pump running, and flooded the engine with gasoline. When it backfired, it set the dash on fire along with his clothing.
You're living IN it while you're working ON it.
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j-d
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05/23/13 07:26pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Failed Smog Test
That carb has four-point idle. Adjustments on the rear barrels as well as the front.
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j-d
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05/23/13 10:55am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Wandering Nightmare
The E-Series 1992 to about 2007 used a "better idea" front sway bar that wasn't terribly effective. It was also undersized for RV use. If the ends of the bar poke into holes in the axle, that's the bar you have. I replaced it with a 1-3/8" bar that works with end links instead of those holes and it helped a lot.
But let's get more information before throwing more money at the issue.
That rear slide can't be helping the weight distribution!
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j-d
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05/22/13 09:22pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Failed Smog Test
If the high HC can stem from a lean condition, let me mention that we had a 460. 1983 chassis, no Cat Converter and FL was not testing emissions. BUT it got to running lean. The EGR valve was rusted out so it actually leaked the exhaust it was trying to control. Changed it. Found out the electric mechansim that managed vacuum to the EGR diaphragam wasn't letting the vacuum bleed off at idle, so it ran awful and usually stalled. I rigged the EGR with a straight hose with a restriction in it. EGR ran OK but engine still didn't run right.
That gets me to my second point. You had your carb off and installed it with an new carb gasket like a good boy. Right? Did you also perhaps replace the gasket between your EGR mounting plate and the Intake Manifold? Ours burned through and what's worse the plate was rusted to one of the studs, so tightening the carb mounting nut did not tighten the plate to the manifold. It took me a lot of doing to get the plate free of the stud and all studs cleaned up. Then reinstalled with new plate gasket and carb gasket. Helped a lot.
That said, Intake Manifold Leaks are not uncommon on 460. Big Heavy job to change one.
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j-d
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05/22/13 08:03pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Wandering Nightmare
I was curious to see what a view straight into the side looked like. Seems to me the WB is short for the overall coach length. Still, you've read where our members have had good results with similar ratios.
I understand the Safe-T-Plus you've added to the steering linkage.
E450 comes with a grossly undersized Rear Sway Bar. Did you replace that, and with exactly what? By that I mean Brand and Diameter. Ditto for the Front.
Are you towing a vehicle or trailer?
Do you have a report from the alignment shop? It's produced from the alignment machine, and usually reports Before and After for Caster, Camber, and Toe.
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j-d
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05/22/13 02:48pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Yikes! $3850 for a 5 day rental
Times-A-Changin'! May 2009 we rented a 29-ft Class C for a week from ABC in Anchorage AK. A "fisherman's special", this Gulfstream Yellowstone was in its last year of service before being sold out of their fleet. Still newer than our Jayco. We paid $505.00 for a week, linens, tableware, appliances furnished. Unlimited generator use, didn't even have to dump tanks. Just top off the Gas and the LPG.
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j-d
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05/22/13 02:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Time for a new A/C ?
Look at THIS and let us know if you checked the "indoor" (evaporator) coil as well as the "outdoor" (condenser) coil and found it's CLEAN as well. If the evap isn't clean and/or condensate not draining, it'll freeze.
If you find the compressor is not starting, could be the Capacitor. There are modern inexpensive multimeters that'll test uF capacitance.
If it starts and runs hot, could be it's running tight and overheating. Again, inexpensive clamp-on AC ammeter can tell you if its draw matches the label plate on the compressor.
I don't know if one can start then run hot because of a failed capacitor. I don't think so, but not really sure.
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j-d
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05/22/13 06:02am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wandering Nightmare
I'd like to see a side view photo of this coach. The ones that look like the House (from back of cab and not including front overhang) is balanced on the rear axle seem to be the ones with the most handling issues.
From the thread, it seems unlikely that the front axle loading will be found to exceed about 1/3 of total scaled weight (front plus rear). If this chassis is E-Series, the front axle tire inflation is only 65PSI at FULL load. Yes, the rear tire pressure can be the full sidewall number of 80 for a fully loaded E450.
Overinflated FRONT tires don't have enough of a contact patch with the road surface to care if they go straight or wander.
Make sure both front tires are at the SAME pressure and that pressure's no more than 65. I personally use 60. And that all four rear tires are at the same pressure. I use 70.
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j-d
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05/22/13 05:34am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ford E350 Check Engine light
Pretty sure a '92 (maybe even a 1991 chassis) is still OBD-1. Can be read with an inexpensive "reader" (as opposed to the computer-chipped "scanner" for OBD-2), or even with an analog voltmeter. Trapezoidal looking connector under the hood.
But the earlier OBD doesn't store all the info the second generation does.
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j-d
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05/21/13 09:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Repair of Airxcel 8333B676 AC roof unit
Have you searched the RVP website for the info on those model numbers?
I'm sure you noticed, but the A/C units are now sold as Upper and Lower portions. If yours is new enough to have been designed to sell that way, you only need the Upper portion. That may be why some of the prices vary so widely. You might find the lowest price is for the Upper only and the highest price is for Upper + Lower.
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j-d
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05/21/13 04:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Repair of Airxcel 8333B676 AC roof unit
This is part of a chart Chris Bryant posted.
8 - 8000 series
3 - standard model
3 - non-exhaust
5 - 15000 btu
B - B revision
8 - Tecumseh compressor
9 - relay/capacitor start kit
1 - colonial white
4 - shipped on returnable skid (likely oem install)
Wish I had access to the whole chart.
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j-d
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05/21/13 12:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Repair of Airxcel 8333B676 AC roof unit
Window A/C units are also sealed systems. So are Fridges, Freezers, Water Coolers, etc. They use a tiny "cap tube" to control refrigerant expansion. Dislodge any impurity and you clog the cap tube. They also hold only a very small refrigerant charge. Just a little too much or too little and it doesn't work right.
There are "bullet valves" that clamp to the tubing but they leak. And officially the refrigerant's supposed to be "recovered" using a specialized machine. Then "evacuated" with a vacuum pump before charging. Combine all these and you get a non-repairable unit, at least practically.
The 13500 Coleman (now RVP) Mach A/C on our 1984 Class C was working fine when we sold it in 2009. It wasn't cooling well in the last season or two we had it, so I did the Chris Bryant tune-up and it went back to COLD. The RVP Mach 15000 on our 2002 coach is working fine.
The Coleman/RVP units last a long time. Failures are typically Dirt, Capacitors, and the Shroud's made of Eggshell. MaXXair has their TuffMaxx replacement shroud, lifetime warranty.
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j-d
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05/21/13 05:50am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: McGyver stories
EGR valve failed old 460 during a trip. Installed a new one but found the control valving wouldn't release the vacuum to the valve at idle so it'd stall. Bypassing the control with a piece of vacuum hose provided so much vacuum the engine would surge. Noticed that the dead twigs on a nearby bush dried with a pinhole down the middle of the wood. Put a 1" piece in the hose as a restrictor and it ran just fine.
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j-d
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05/21/13 05:28am |
Tech Issues
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