What FK said, and I should point out that it's good practice to "backseat" these valves. Clockwise till snug to shut off, but Counterclockwise till snug when turning the LPG on. Reason I was given is the valve is less likely to leak that way.
Are you willing to go for a LIGHT TOAD?
We started out with a Toyota Tercel, under 2000#
Then a little Mitsubishi (aka Dodge Ram 50) pickup around 2500#
Sold both and went with Nissan Frontier nearly 4000#
Towed Tercel and Mitsu with a 460 then Mitsu and Frontier with V10
With both RV's we could tell between No Toad and Toad.
We can feel the difference in towing the extra weight of Frontier over Mitsu.
All this with big block or V10. Based on this, here's my counsel:
Get a Toad that weighs (mfr's Curb Weight) less than 3000#. There are very nice vehicles meeting that spec.
***OR*** find a Toad with GVWR (door sticker Gross Vehicle Weight) less than 3000#. The Tercel GVWR was 2900-something#. There are a number of subcompacts that meet this also.
I see this in Cars, Boats, RV's all the time. "Can it do it?" is not the same as "Will I like it?" We have a toad-capable Corolla (manual shift like all the others above are/were) and I'm ready to set it up for towing and save that 1000# or so when we don't want to take the Frontier on our trips.
You're re-tooling your whole RV operation, so I'd suggest you match toad to new RV and don't try bumping the max in the ratings.
Jose, Glad to hear good results! Do you feel you actually gained something on the Power or Fuel fronts?
I had learned about Zero Degree as an aside in an exchange with an OP on another forum years ago. Our 460 had nearly 100,000 miles when we got it and I thought the OEM timing set (especially if it had nylon sprocket teeth!) could be worn out. Somehow, if I remember right, I'd found a water pump bolt stuck in the timing cover. Something like that, anyhow. I decided to replace Water Pump and Timing Set on a pre-emptive basis. The work was a lot like what you said about camber plates... Lots of labor but not all that tricky.
We ended up with Rebuilt Molly Carb (that Ford/Holley), Steel Timing Set with Zero Crank Sprocket, OEM Exhaust Manifolds and Crossover, No Cat (not OEM on a 49-state E350 in 1983), and Flowmaster 3-inch single exhaust with "Big Block" muffler. It started well, ran strong, got about 8-mpg best. You've solved the piston-driven A/C compressor issue ours had.
EDIT - I should add that FL had emissions testing which has since been completely discontinued. But when they did, anything built on or after emissions systems came into effect had to test and pass. Year model was around 1973 if I recall. VERY difficult to get older vehicles to pass, even if the system hadn't been "tampered."
And Jose, the Timing Set was actually in good condition. Nylon cam sprocket looked good, chain not stretched, retarded sprocket just broken in.
The Ball Joints MAY have plugs where you could install grease fittings. I did that on our 2002 Axle. That took the number of fittings up from Four to Eight. When adding Four to the Ball Joints, I chose some angled fittings to make it easier to get the grease gun onto them. Also replaced a few of the Four original ones (as shown on Bruce's excellent diagram) with angled.
Our 2012 Axle doesn't have Grease Fittings OR plugs on the Ball Joints. Sealed for Life? Ford meant it!
A good first step, though, is to hold the switch in STOP till the fuel pump stops clucking. OK, clicking, but I think of it as clucking. I find I have to do that twice. Our generator, same model, goes like this:
1. Hold in STOP till Clucking stops
2. Attempt Start. May sometimes start, usually does not
3. Repeat 1. above
4. Attempt Start. Almost always DOES start
We really need a definition of what the target coach really is. Downsizing from a Fiver or Class A begs the question "How small is small?" Some marketers came up with "B+" but the industry didn't really settle on it. Traditional "B" is based on a Cargo Van. Might be highly modified, but clearly a van. You can see most of its original metal. Class C? and that confusing B+? A "cutaway" van CHASSIS. Stops at the CAB. I like the idea of "Low Profile Class C." Lower, narrower than the "Full C" and no "House" extension over the cab. Just a "fairing" that may likely have storage and entertainment inside, but not a bed. Several builders don't make full C's. Coach House is one and well respected. Also well respected is Phoenix Cruiser. The PC line seems to be a good balance between features, quality, and price. Pretty much every Class C builder has a line of B+ or whatever you call them. WinTasca, Jayco, Forest River, you name'em. You may like the "dedicated" brands better. Look for curved sides, maybe fiberglass. A fiberglass roof. A full fiberglass rear end cap. The B+ from some of the "majors" doesn't have all those.
There's one brand that uses the term "Low Profile Class C" and that's Lazy Daze. Those things are an "aircraft quality" Class C! Yes they have a cabover, but they're lower, lighter, and I think narrower than most full C's. Again, it shows in the price.
We've taken the coach on a few short trips and I liked how it felt but I couldn't say it tracked much better than before. So I tried two things:
1. Replicate Harvard's test for "truck alignment" based on degrees of Camber at hard over (about 25°) wheel cut. With his formula showing upper 4° left and just over 5° right, with fixed offset bushings, I doubt I can get much more Caster.
2. I had left Toe where my recently replaced Tie Rods had been set with the original axle. Decided it was time to re-check. My measurements indicated it was toe-in too far. My thought is that the old axle to crossmember bushings allowed it to toe-out, which I adjusted for. Then I didn't check it as part of the axle project. Just put the linkage onto the new parts with the same settings as with the old. I tried my shade tree/DIY toe adjustment, trying for just a little toe-in from neutral. Just took a test run yesterday. Just driving out of the neighborhood, the steering didn't have the "Too Light" feel that was there before. Before I even left the freeway on-ramp I could feel that the steering had a Center. Sure enough! For the first time in its history, the RV acted like it would prefer to go straight and not wander in another direction!
So... What is this Magic Toe Setting? Very imprecise but I tried to have the edge of the tread ribs 1/8" closer measured across the front than across the back. The hub centers are about 15" off the ground, but the tread can't be measured across the back more than about 11" off ground. So the measurements are from front and rear tread edges at a height of 11".
Turned out the steering wheel is about 10° to the right. Not sure I want to tinker with it right now. I know I'd want to twist the two adjust sleeves equal amounts in opposite directions but which way? Easy to end up backwards on stuff like this. Throughout the process I thought I was turning both sleeves equally, and the wheel had been centered when I started.
pauldub's comment - I'm satisfied that:
1. Adjustable Bushings listed as E350 WILL FIT E450.
2. Based on experiences here and conversation with John Henderson, I would not hesitate to install adjustable bushings. What I WOULD DO is be sure there was no grease or dirt on the surfaces of knuckle and bushing, use Loctite on the Pinch Bolt, and Torque Pinch Bolt to Specs, which I believe I read to be around 55-ft-lb. That's a lot for a fastener that size but I'd do it since I have permission... Maybe put some Loctite on the mounting surfaces, haven't thought that one through yet.
Our 1984 24-ft Holiday on E350 was easy on tires. We had 8.75R16.5D from Pep Boys. Scrambler M/S as I recall and I think discontinued.
Have you weighed the coach and adjusted tire pressures? Was your weight above the rated capacity of the tires?
You say you don't have uneven wear. I still wonder if alignment is so far out that you're dragging the tires sideways. They tend to get toe-out. Wear in radius arm bushings or steering linkage. Also, the axle to crossmember bushings don't last forever.
I did notice no Seventh Tire in those patterns. Found both Four and Five Tire rotation for FWD and RWD cars/trucks but not that seventh for duallys. I'd say match sizes (essentially diameters) and try to equalize irregular wear (that I figure will be on front).
Given road has a slight crown, any slightly smaller rears should be on the inside. Right rear outer probably takes the most beating from hitting things. BUT right rear INNER takes the worst beating overall. It's by the hot exhaust in many cases, but it also shoulders full load on the right rear when we run the outer wheel off the pavement.
Worst tire to Spare?
Here are some diagrams that might help. As asked above, what are you trying to correct? I had worn inside edges on front tires. The "irregular front tire wear" diagram shows switching them with rear outers. Advice I received from a tire shop (Phelps Tire, might have shops in your area) was to put the worn edges BETWEEN the rear duals. That required dismounting them and flipping them over to make that happen. The wear did equalize.
My concern would not be the TST monitors. Would be the braided extenders. You don't have to use the "airless" ones, that don't depress the valve core at the rim till you push a gauge onto them. After all, the monitors will keep the core "pushed." Just be sure your extenders are firmly attached to METAL valves at the rims. Also be sure your wheel simulators (if that's what you have) are solidly mounted to the wheels. No "push-ons" here! Can't lose a sim and have it take the extender and your air with it.
My 6" Craftsman 1/2" drive extension still seemed to cut down on the torque delivered on our RV lug nuts...
This is part of the problem using 1/2" drive Sockets and Extensions on our RV wheels. Get an extension long enough to clear the outer rear rim and a lot of the force on the breaker bar goes into winding up the extension.
Talking about sockets, impacts, etc etc... Black IMPACT sockets are probably a little stronger than chrome regular sockets. But the real reason to use impact sockets is.... Safety... Eye Safety... If an impact socket blows up, the black coating simply cracks. If that happens to a chrome socket, chunks of chrome become sharp missiles. I suppose some of us sometimes use chrome in a pinch (NEVER because of laziness of course...). I think wrapping the socket in duct or electrical tape would help contain the fragments.
That IS correct. Extension, and the extra joint (extension to socket) soak up some of the impact's torque. Seen "Torque Sticks?" it's an extension with a built-in socket that will actually limit what the impact can deliver to the nut.
I found that even with an (impact) extension, my 7/8" impact socket had trouble with the rear wheels. I used the extension because of interference with the axle hub. Harbor Fright sells individual deep impact sockets but apparently 7/8" (23mm) isn't popular enough to sell separately, just as part of a set.
Back to it... Torque Sticks
Color Coded for Hex Size and for Torque.
What is the Front Axle Capacity (GAWR-Front) of your Ford Chassis? I'm not a betting man, but I'd bid high that it's 5000-lb. At 75, your tire size supports 2560 Single. 4620 total, safe for a full load of 5000.
Now, what's the Rear Axle Capacity (GAWR-Rear)? I'll bid that it's 4300 (dual at 62-psi) time two, or 8600 GAWR-Rear.
All Thor is doing is reiterating Ford's recommendation for a MAX-loaded copy of your chassis. Which is loaded lighter. Adjust pressure to actual load as noted above.
And Desert Captain is SO RIGHT. Beyond wildest imagination. Just had all new tires installed, and the shop "sidewalled" them. 80-psi all around. In contradiction to written pressures I'd given them, based on load. Up on a high bridge, in crosswinds, we almost lost it. Just about couldn't keep it on the road. Stopped right after. Sure enough, 80-psi front. Dropped them to 65-psi. That's per the weight chart and we have 4600 on the front axle, way more than you do. The controllable drive returned with the 65.
We've told you how this works and why. You pays your money and you takes your choice.
The Walkaround Queen Bedroom weighs a certain amount, more if it includes a slide. It isn't too hard for a 31-ft coach to have enough wheelbase to balance that weight with the rest of the coach. If the coach you're considering has a wheelbase of 215-inches give or take, here's what will happen:
The Rear Axle will NOT be overloaded.
There will be enough weight on the Front Axle to provide steering stability on the road.
It's when the builders try to put a Walkaround Queen floorplan that "fits" a 31-footer on a C that's several feet shorter. The fender wells can't be in the bedroom floor, so they shorten the wheelbase. Ratio becomes unfavorable, rear axle gets overloaded, front axle isn't loaded enough to track well.
Tell us what you're looking at. We can pull a brochure down and take a look.
WEIGH anything you're considering buying. Ours for example, has enough wheelbase, is not over GVWR, both axles are within GAWR, BUT it's heavy. Turns out they used a steel subframe that should have been aluminum.
You can take a look from the side of a Class C. Ignore the cab and cabover. Look only at the House part. If it looks like it's balanced on the rear axle, it's likely to have problems. A 31-footer will show the rear axle well aft of centerline. This lightens the rear and provides proper loading on the front. You'll need to weigh it, adjust tire pressure, and get 5+ degrees front caster, but it'll drive OK.
That question, My Brother, is Above My Pay Grade...
We had some tire experts, maybe they'll jump in. I'd think the damage to tires would be (worst to least):
1. Hot Dry Desert
2. Hot Humid like Florida
3. Mild Dry
4. Mild Humid
5. Freezing??? Don't know
6. Cool/Dry and Off the Ground
To get the strength it needs, an alloy wheel needs to be thicker than its steel counterpart. Part of the reason the inner dual wheel stays steel when alloys are installed is that the lug bolts aren't long enough for two alloys. I wonder if the inner alloy wheel might keep the outer wheel center off the pilot (centering, supporting) portion of the hub.
Anyhow, the part of Chuck's valves that fasten into the hole in the wheel probably isn't long enough to tighten the nut that holds it all together.
Today I noticed on Chuck's site "Steel Wheels Only." Really thought he had kits for alloys.
I also noticed the yourtireshopsupply.com site wasn't working...Still...