The emergency start relay/solenoid is usually under the hood. It allows you to use the coach (aka "house") battery to give yourself a jump start if the chassis battery goes dead out on a campsite.
Doug is referring to the battery that supplies the living quarters. It'll be in a compartment like your other outside storage. Look for another relay/solenoid there, near the battery/batteries. Should look about like this http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LVMd4UD2L._AC_US160_.jpg width=100. Can be fuses etc around it. Controlled by a switch inside the coach. Our switch is by the door. It is ON, right? Battery charged, right?
I had to notch just a little. Eight-Round-Hole Simulators, BORG Dually Valves. Easy enough. But I'd suggest you cut or grind your notches. I did that on one side after I thought I could dimple the stainless steel a little to gain the clearance and it cracked. I'd rather have a ground-out spot (Dremel Tool) than a crack. Still, the tiny crack has not spread.
Always been noisy? Or has it gotten progressively noisy over time? If over time, motor bearings are a possibility. So are an obstruction in the air supply/exhaust ducting OR a nest in the blower itself.
Our Jayco on E450 bears a label next to the hitch stating the coach's brakes are rated for the gVwr of the Ford Chassis, NOT the gCwr of coach plus towed weight.
The only place I've ever heard of RVers being checked for toad brakes was British Columbia.
Still, there's always the liability issue and for that reason we use a Brake Buddy.
I've read where break-away braking is required. How can that be done without a supplemental braking system???
In many states, if you ARE checked, it'll be on the GVWR of the toad, NOT its actual weight on a scale. I just looked at our "2500-pound" Corolla and its GVWR is 3585-pounds. That's Corolla + People + Luggage. Hopefully it isn't being towed that way, but 3585 is still more than 3000 and that's what the trooper is going to read.
I wish we'd all just quit being armchair engineers and lawyers, and just be safe! I don't want to be the one YOUR toad hits me head on after it came unhitched while YOU were feeling "safe."
Always post the ONAN Model Number with Spec Code. Spec is generally the last character of Model Number.
If you have a Model beginning "4KY" then it's a single cylinder 3600-RPM generator. Removing the genny from the coach won't help much with the sparkplug unless it's in a really odd mounting location.
AND... If it IS actually a 4KY, then holding the control switch against STOP (before you try to start it) should run the fuel pump. Try it from the outside switch, the one on the genny. You have to remove that access cover. The end of the switch that doesn't have the red indicator is STOP. Hold it in STOP and you should hear the fuel pump. It's a tapping sound, not a whirr like an electric motor. If you don't hear it, something's wrong. It should run, tapping pretty loud (easy to hear from beside the genny, maybe not from inside the coach). Then it should taper off and go quiet. If it doesn't get quiet, it's either bad or not getting gas from the coach's tank.
Try this and let us know what you find.
I put the TST system on my RV and did not notice any difference. I would not expect any in the rear because the valves on each wheel are 180 deg from each other so they should cancel out, but was worried about the fronts but I cant feel any vibration.
I didn't add TPMS, but this is the same way I see the even heavier Custom Valve Stems. At 180* apart, I never felt the rears would be an issue. That said, I didn't replace the front Valves with Custom, but for the front, the slightly longer Brass stem doesn't weigh noticeably more than the standard chrome-over-steel-or-brass one.
But - Please don't add any significant weight (like extenders) to RUBBER valve stems on your RV. The weight and vibration will cause any non-metal stem to worry into failure right at the rim.
I have one that I've used for the last 4K miles on my '03 Ford E-450. The transmission behaviour is much improved and when using cruise control, it no longer shifts down when it sees the first hint of an incline. Now it will go over most freeway overcrossings without down shifting.
Am I correct in that your 2003 E450 has the 4R100 transmission?
That downshifting behaviour! Can't stand it! It'll run over a dime in the road. A nickel and it'll downshift.
If it has the floorplan you like, you can deal with the CCC, and it's not hiding major defects, this coach looks very good. I know I'd consider it.
A number of the options are now more common than not.
Ducted AC is now very common
Heat Pump is legitimately an option
Fiberglass walls are now the norm
Generator and Wheel Liners are common standard equipment
Ice maker, Convection, Inverter, Attic Fan (?) aren't so common
CB... nice for some, most don't care
DSS... potential to be useful
Ours do not, but the 65-F and 75-R that we run at is bumping the max 80-PSI for a Load Range E tire. And 65 IS max for Load Range D. With a lighter coach, the related lower pressure could give the tire a soft look. Remember when radials came out, we were warned they could "Look Low" when they were not. And worse, they didn't look much "Lower" when nearly flat. We had a passenger van that ran 16.5" wheels and Load Range D tires on it, running 35-PSI. They looked low, but wore properly.
If I have the numbers right and according to the Michelin chart with my 225/75r 16 my pressure should be 50psi with the front axle wt of 3880 or 1940 per tire. and the rear pressure at 60 psi with the weight of 7930 or 3965 per set of duals.
Is that correct?
YES, It IS!
Eric, If you still have the coach in the driveway, go ahead and adjust pressures in all six. Just be sure to observe Single/Dual. Pressure may be the end of the trail.
You didn't photo all of Jayco's label, but they're only going to parrot the tire pressure for max axle load. 4300 GAWR means 2150 per single tire or 65 PSI.
Please Please Please lower that front tire pressure! I'd like to have you drop it all the way to 50. Go 55 if you feel better, but LOWER that pressure.
Our front tire pressure should be 65. Tire shop set to 80. It tracked poorly till we went down the steep grade from the top of a high bridge in a cross wind. At that point we nearly lost it. Stopped on the side of the road and lowered to 70. Got our tracking back.
Air's Cheap, probably Free. Let some out! You can always put it back.
Your not overloaded from an Axle or Gross Vehicle standpoint. That said, I know that Ford wants at least a third (why they say 32% and not just 33% or a "third" kinda beats me) of the unit's loaded weight on the front axle. I calculated just under 30% from the numbers you provided.
"One-Third" is one rule of thumb. The other one I've heard is "75% of GAWR-Front" and you're above that at nearly 84%.
So, although I'd like to see you shift 200-300 pounds from aft of the rear axle to forward of the rear axle, I'm not convinced that weight distribution is the problem. On our Jayco, the fresh water tank is under the coach body, pretty much centered over the axle. So full or empty, it's a rear axle weight, but doesn't unload the front axle when full. But!!! Both the Black and Gray waste tanks are behind the rear axle, so we always try to run with those empty.
Since I think the issue is something else...
Did you adjust Tire Pressure according to the CAT scale axle weights? If you have Load Range E tires and they're inflated to the max of 80 PSI shown on the sidewall, I can PROMISE you that the handling is going to be squirrely. Read Michelin's Load/Pressure Chart and scroll to your tire size. If you match your size, the Brand doesn't have to be Michelin. The numbers still work. You should have NO MORE than 50 PSI front. Look up the rear, too, but overinflated rears just ride harder, don't do much to affect tracking.
Is there a damaged part in your steering, or even in your rear spring shackles and bushings? I think I mentioned front Idler Arm and its mounting bracket.
Then have its alignment checked/corrected by a truck shop. Fords benefit from the CASTER setting toward the upper end of the range, so we try to avoid having it set to midpoint. I don't know about Chevy, but Caster contributes to tracking.
Your coach should do better...
Curious about this as I am looking at a Class C that has Alumiframe® construction and an aluminum roof.
I know that the vast majority of Class Cs have EPDM/TPO rubber roofs but I am not sure about what framing materials are being used.
The unit I am considering is a 2005 Monaco Esquire. Here is what is listed on the brochure as Body Construction:
Alumaframe® Superstructure THIS IS A HOLIDAY RAMBLER (AND SUCCESSORS) TRADEMARK AS YOU NOTED. NEARLY EVERY MOTORHOME HAS ALUMINUM SIDEWALL FRAMING. OUR CHEAP JAYCO HAS "STRUCTURAL FOAM" ROOF WITH ONE ALUMINUM CROSS BEAM IN THE AREA OF THE AIR CONDITIONER. HOLIDAY USED TO ADVERTISE THEIR ALUMAFRAME AS A COMPLETE ALUMINUM SKELETON, TOP, SIDES, FRONT AND REAR
Peaked Aluminum Roof with Fiberglass Insulation BETWEEN THE ALUMINUM SKIN AND THE ALUMINUM TRUSSES, THIS ADDS UP TO A PREMIUM FEATURE
Smooth Aluminum Sidewalls PREMIUM FEATURE
Fiberglass Front Cap with Radius Corners to Roof Line PREMIUM FEATURE
ABS Radius Rear Cap Transition Application
to Roof Line and Bumper ANOTHER PREMIUM FEATURE. MANY COACHES WITH FIBERGLASS FRONT CAPS TO NOT HAVE FIBERGLASS REAR CAPS
Aluminum Framed Floor on Steel Trusses MOST MOHO'S HAVE A WELDED STEEL OR ALUM FLOOR "SLAB"
Laminated StructurwoodTM Flooring ??? HOPEFULLY BETTER THAN THE OSB USED IN OURS
Interior Paneling with 3/4" Insulation TYPICAL RV CONSTRUCTION
Foam Insulated Floor Framing with 3-Ply Underbelly I THINK MOST BUILDERS INSULATE THE FLOOR. OURS HAS FOAM WITHIN THE STEEL FRAMING, OSB ON TOP, SHEET METAL BELOW
Streamlined Baggage Doors with Integrated Single
Handle Latches PREMIUM FEATURE
One-Piece Polyethylene Storage Compartment, PREMIUM FEATURE
Pass-Through Storage PREMIUM FEATURE
Wheel Mud Flaps ARE THEY KIDDING, WHO DOESN'T?
Painted Mask and Skirt with Vinyl Exterior Graphics
Rear Ladder PREMIUM FEATURE
Interior Rubber Entry Step ???
Exterior Single Entry Steps ???
Fiberglass Running Boards PREMIUM FEATURE
o p t i o n s
Smooth Gel Coat Fiberglass Exterior Walls RATHER HAVE THE PAINTED ALUMINUM!!!
As I noted before, this unit is an upscale Class C. At least by design and features. I don't know how well Monaco brought it off, construction-wise. I do know Holiday was out of the Class C business for awhile, then brought them back. I think the brand name on the re-entry Class C was "Atlantis" and those results were mixed at best.
NOTE: Had to to to Woodall's to post this reply...
See if your under-dash HVAC cabinet is marked with its Make/Model. We had an older Class C with "dealer" air and the expansion valve WAS replaced when converted from R12 to R134A. I think you should change it. And be sure it's wrapped in the insulating cork tape called Press Tight. Otherwise a condensate buildup will freeze and tell the valve to cut the refrigerant off.
Not at all uncommon for shops to not want to work on Class A motorhomes. Access is difficult, and often the system was cobbed together with what was available when a specific unit was being built. I can go to another forum and see what I can learn.
Before I do, what are the Chassis Make, Model, Year, and Engine? Please get that info, and tell us as much as you can about the HVAC inside unit as you can find.
The RV "industry" like the boating "industry" excels in marketing solutions to problems we don't have.
Doug can verify this, but I heard the drain tube from the condensate tray under the fridge compartment fins, should have a slight upward bend before turning down to drain outside. Or in some cases (like our Norcold N811), into a condensate catcher in the lower outside fridge access compartment. Trapping a little water was supposed to keep the heavy cool air from escaping down that drain tube.