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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1221 matches.

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RE: Chev/Workhorse Class C owners:Help!!

Something is odd here. I'm a Ford owner, and installed Hellwig sway bars front and rear. I also helped an OP here, install a Hellwig REAR sway bar on a Chevy 3500 Class C RV that I remember being about a 2005 chassis. But all I can find now in listings is what you're probably seeing: 1997-2002 - Hellwig 7181 I wonder if something was discontinued.
j-d 09/21/17 07:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Testing solenoid

Here's Test from the 4KY Service Manual *** A check can be made by measuring the resistance of coil terminals I and S (Figure 6-5). With the harness leads removed, the coil should read 3–5 ohms. If an abnormal reading is measured, replace start solenoid relay K1. If the coil checks good and a problem with the solenoid is still suspected, remove the leads from the side terminal posts. An open circuit should be measured between the side terminal posts with the coil de-energized. With 12 VDC applied across the coil (I and S terminals) the relay should be energized and continuity should be measured between the side posts. *** This means you need Battery AND Ground on those two little spade terminals before the Coil will pull in and connect the two Stud Terminals.
j-d 09/21/17 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Fuse or breaker for steps?

Copy That Michael. I've come to the same conclusion. I think I have at least one of the plugs the motor uses. Seems time to check. Could be a worthwhile extra ounce in my toolbox. Have you found the main step power source on your Jayco?
j-d 09/21/17 06:35am Class C Motorhomes
RE: how hydraulic slide

For my information, does the Motor simply unbolt from the Pump and its shaft slide out of the Pump? That'd be like the power trim motors on boat engines... Or is the HWH arrangement trickier? *** OH... Answered my own question with gOOgle "08053 Motor" and got way more hits than I expected including several around $100 on Amazon. Like this, right? https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/4125SKnlbIL._AC_US218_.jpg width=250 I can see where the Motor Shaft simply "notches" into the Pump. The mounting seems odd, though. Would have thought it would have mounting ears/bosses/flange. Maybe the pictured Nuts come off and the long bolts thread into the Pump? deja vu... Earlier post I made. Noticed this motor is used on Lift Gates.
j-d 09/21/17 04:45am Tech Issues
RE: Fuse or breaker for steps?

OH, There's a two-wire connector that powers only the Motor. Hard to see upside down in the dark in a black corner of the steps base. But it'd be possible to rig a Test Light, pull that plug to the Motor and connect the Light. And... rig a connector to a long test wire to try running the MOTOR and be away from the mechanism doing it. WARNING!!! Kwikee Control Module backs the power off the Motor when the step stops "hard" in either direction. Test Wire does NOT, and the Motor will burn out if the Test Power is left connected!
j-d 09/21/17 04:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuse or breaker for steps?

If I recall, one of the wires going to the control module had an inline fuse. Correct recall. Ours has two of the ATO type fuses in shielded in-line holders. I pulled both, and that kept the step from cycling in/out like an OP has in another recent Kwikee thread. I knew they weren't "motor power" since they were only 5A each. Also didn't notice that four-wire plug, which does carry the main power feed to the step.
j-d 09/21/17 04:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Fiesta- height of tabs(Blue Ox)

BlueOx, Roadmaster too, and probably others, included an "as installed" photo of the specific vehicle a specific base plate is installed on. You should be able to get a close estimate with that photo, a Fiesta, and a yardstick. I recommend that baseplate shoppers study the install instructions for the plates they are considering. Even if they aren't doing the job themselves. They can tell how invasive the installation is, what it'll look like, and the hitching height. There can be major differences between brands.
j-d 09/20/17 07:11pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Fuse or breaker for steps?

Breaker is 20 Amps. Feeds a 12 GA Red Wire into the Four-Way Connector. If you're going to work on it, you may need the Kwikee Manual #875. Newer steps use Manual #888.
j-d 09/20/17 02:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuse or breaker for steps?

I was wondering about ours, see signature. Since you asked, thought I'd go figure it out. It's powered by the House Battery, so the Battery Disconnect has to be ON. On ours, there's a Auto Reset Breaker, next to the Battery Isolator Solenoid, near the Master Cylinder under the Hood. Mounted right where the rear edge of the Hood closes. If you need a picture, I'll go take one. PM me a mobile number and I can text it to you. To simply disconnect the Step to work on it, there's a four-wire connector very near the step itself. My Standard Warning: BE VERY CAREFUL AROUND THIS THING! It moves faster than you'd think and it has TONS of Torque. Sucker can Hurt You.
j-d 09/20/17 01:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Recycling

Grey, Make and Model of this Fridge, please. I trust it's a Two Way RV Fridge that works using LPG or 120 Volts AC from Shore Tie or Generator. Is this cycling on LPG, Electric, or Both?
j-d 09/20/17 09:35am Tech Issues
RE: Rooftop ac coolant recharge

They don't leak down all that often. Before you assume it needs refrigerant: Are the Coils clean? The Condenser coil on the rear of the unit is easy. The Evaporator is under a sheet metal cover on the front of the unit. Is the Filter clean? If it's Ducted, are you sure there isn't a problem in the ducting? Likely where the A/C is installed. Are you running it on High Fan, reducing the chance of the Evaporator Coil frosting over? If your unit is Ducted, a Freeze Sensor will detect that and stop the compressor from further cooling till it's satisfied the coil isn't freezing. If it's not ducted, freeze over will reduce, probably stop, cooling.
j-d 09/20/17 09:29am Class C Motorhomes
RE: AC Still not working

This is a 15,000 BTU, not a 15 Amp unit. We have one, and it's on a 20A circuit within our RV panel, 30A coach. The question seems to be: Is the Compressor Locked (Stuck)? There are three Amperages related to a compressor: Starting, AKA Peak Inrush. This could be 50A or more and it takes good equipment to measure it. My cheapie Horror Fright clamp-on AC Ammeter cannot capture that. Running, probably around 10-12A. Cheapie WILL capture that. LOCKED ROTOR AMPS, Along with Running Amps, will be on a plate or label on the Compressor. LRA for this Mach 15 A/C is probably around 50A. Cheapie WILL capture this amperage. But what usually trips on LRA, is an INTERNAL cutoff within the Compressor. IF IF IF the RUN Capacitor is bad, Compressor will go into LRA and trip off on the internal protection. Very many tries, the Compressor will get HOT and it takes a LONG time, say half an hour, to cool enough for another try. So, I recommend this: Disconnect Power and let the compressor cool while you get an Ammeter. Then, be on the roof, at the compressor, Ammeter clamped on input power, and have a helper turn the system ON. See what the Amps are. IF it's LRA, you have only seconds to read it before the internal trips the power off. You want to be on a full power shore tie, no extension cords. Give the Compressor its best chance to start. Possible Hail Mary: I've seen this work, albeit rarely. Compressor COLD. Again, on max available AC power: Same as the AMPS test, but this time you're next to the Compressor with a RUBBER MALLET. Line up a clean shot at the upper end of the Compressor where you won't hit a line, wiring or component. Have your assistant turn the system on and Smack the Compressor a split second later, before the internal will open the circuit. As I've said, odds are against this but I've seen it work. Odds? My speculation is 5-10 pct. But it's sure a cheap try.
j-d 09/19/17 07:35am Tech Issues
RE: Can bad EGR cause trnsmission problems?

This 1994 P30 should be OBD1. How were the codes pulled and what were they? This Listing shows several EGR codes. Hopefully replacing EGR will clear any/all of them. Notice there is a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and it too can throw a code. I mention VSS because some automatic transmissions of this vintage would shift 1-2-3 but not into OD/4 if VSS had failed.
j-d 09/18/17 03:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Generac 5.5 Generator Power Fail

This question would get more play in our Tech Issues forum, as this generator isn't just in Class C's. Might play still better on SmokStak.com which has a Generac section. In addition to breaker(s) on your generator, there will also be breaker(s) on you coach's Load Center. That's where 12VDC Fuses, 120VAC Breakers, possibly an Inverter, and most likely your Converter/Charger are. Also, how does your coach shift from shore tie pedestal to generator power? Ours and many others uses an Automatic Transfer Switch. Some, the generator powers an outlet, like the one a shore tie pedestal has, and you unplug from the Pedestal and into that on board Outlet.
j-d 09/18/17 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan generator doesn't work

Now that it's running, and maybe you have a new battery (time'll ell on that one!) I suggest you do what I've learned the hard way to do: 1. Exercise that ONAN about Monthly. Apply as much load as you can. 2. Put Stabilizer in your Gas. I was having trouble with ours and coveted how another camper's ONAN was running. He told me he put StaBil in every drop of gas that went into that big 55 gallon RV tank. Long trip or not. I started doing that, and it's been wonderful. Switched to Starbrite's StarTron, which is far less expensive with equally good reviews. I want my ONAN to serve when called upon, and I don't ever want to replace its Carburetor again.
j-d 09/18/17 08:10am Tech Issues
RE: Onan generator doesn't work

This is an update to the generator issue. I was able to start generator after starting motorhome engine. Does this mean the house battery needs to be charged since I had to have the engine on for it to start? Sorry if this is a dumb question. No Dumb Questions, Sister! Couple observations on our Jayco with Onan Generator: 1. It cranks from the Coach/House Battery 2. It's supposed to help charge that House Battery once it's running (unless ONAN has deleted that feature. They may have.) 3. When you started the Road Engine, two things happened: a. The Engine's Alternator began to charge your House Battery through the Isolator. b. That same Isolator had you your Road and House Batteries connected, same idea as Jumper Cables from Under Hood to House Battery 4. Very surprisingly, the Ancient IOTA Converter/Charger (from 2002) does NOT boil our house battery. 5. For just a tiny little motor cranking about an Eight Horse Engine on the ONAN, it is VERY demanding on the House Battery. Our Battery will do everything we want it to till we go to crank the genny. Then off to Walmart for another Group 27 Deep Cycle (Trolling Motor) Battery.
j-d 09/18/17 08:04am Tech Issues
RE: Aftermarket auto levelers on e450

Our HWH system keeps running with periodic (more like frequent) tweaks. Their worst feature isn't that they're HWH, it's that they are Kick Down Jacks. If you can install something Direct Acting (stores and extends straight down) I think you will like it. If there are alternative mounting locations, set the front as far forward as you can. The rear as far back as you can. If the instructions don't allow mounting way back on the rear frame instruction, of course don't. And both sets as widely spaced side to side as you can.
j-d 09/18/17 07:56am Class C Motorhomes
RE: how hydraulic slide

HWH Auto systems use 2 relays and are DIFFERENT parameters...DO NOT use any other relay other than the relay's that are designed for the system. Doug Doug's a Master of RV Repair. That's enough for me. What he says: I Do. It Works. Crawling under to look at ours, soon. Thanks, Doug!
j-d 09/18/17 07:23am Tech Issues
RE: how hydraulic slide

I hope u are right. Me too. Did it "just happen?" Like that connection was never quite tight? Or IS there a problem that is causing the system to draw so much more current than it was designed to and "something had to give?" I suppose that if you replace the relay and it all operates as it used to, you could simply call it good. Or, watchful waiting... When you run it, feel around for hot cables and connections. Dig deeper if you find such. Or, get a DC Ammeter and measure current draw going both ways. Compare with draw when leveling. To do it right, you should have a current draw spec. I didn't look in the manual. In any event, please let us know how it's going!
j-d 09/18/17 05:10am Tech Issues
RE: 30 and 31 ft. C's

We're at 32' bumper to bumper What's the Wheelbase on this 32'? Door jamb label should say. Thanks!
j-d 09/17/17 08:36pm Class C Motorhomes
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