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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1263 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Fuel Pressure Nightmare

Glad to hear that! This should not have been so difficult, but we've had several instances where it was. Now enjoy your coach!
j-d 10/24/14 05:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Power Efficient Computer Monitor Upgrade?

Here's one that plugs into the laptop's USB. So it's powered by the laptop battery or brick. The "+" in the model number means it offers higher resolution than ASUS model without "+" and others listed on Amazon where I searched "USB MONITOR." Still "only 15.6-in" though. I'm happy with that size monitor and I think the ASUS linked here is aimed at tablet users.
j-d 10/24/14 05:12am Tech Issues
RE: Roof top airconditioner

I'm having trouble understanding what the "this" is...
j-d 10/23/14 01:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Roof top airconditioner

I remain perplexed at the question, at what OP is trying to accomplish. It's a Coleman Rooftop, not ducted? With Controls on the Unit? That's what we have. Two knobs. One Knob is OFF, Low Fan, High Fan, Low Cool, High Cool. When it's in "Cool" the Second Knob is Temperature. Fan runs in its Low or High setting and Compressor cycles. Just trying to figure out what's wrong with that and what OP wants to change. If he wants the Fan to cycle WITH the Compressor (totally OFF when Second Knob doesn't call for cooling, there's a thread here where somebody did that with a Relay. I think, though, that temperature sensing would be erratic with the Fan Off. Then others have not wanted the Compressor and Fan to start in unison on other A/C's because of the two start demands thrown onto the generator at once. They've added an electronic delay to let the Compressor start first and kick the Fan on a couple seconds later. At least for me, I'd need more info to try and understand the current status and the desired outcome.
j-d 10/23/14 05:27am Tech Issues
RE: Fridge spewing brown liquid

Did you hear a Whistling Sound? That's the Failed Cooling Unit Bullet you just dodged...
j-d 10/23/14 05:18am Tech Issues
RE: What is it?

Daughter's Subaru has a panel like that with a similar little access point. About can't get a wrench on the filter and drain plug with it in place. And when I do, the oil doesn't oblige by coming out only through that hole. I just take the whole thing off.
j-d 10/23/14 05:15am Tech Issues
RE: Increased power for Chevy 3500 Class C

That 496/8.1 isn't that rough on gas when running with a light load. Don't hold me to this, but I honestly believe the Class C chassis with 8.1 did not also get the Allison transmission like the Pickup chassis did. At least Ford provided TorqShift in both of the product lines. Not to say the GM HydraMatic is a bad unit. Just not competitive with Allison and TorqShift on a features basis. More like Ford's 4R100. Never heard of somebody with 454 GM or 460 Ford in a Class C complaining about lack of power. Ford's V10 is supposed to perform better than the two old V8's, then the 8.1 beyond that. Gene, I continue to rejoice that you're pleased with your 5.7's performance. I continue to express caution that, in general, the 5.7 in a Class C is at the upper limits of its capabilities. We have a 1996 5.7 EFI in our boat. One person on board, it's HOT. Two it's Great. Three it's OK. Four it's a Dog.
j-d 10/23/14 05:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Increased power for Chevy 3500 Class C

Engine Swap Cautions: 1. Be sure the 350 and 454 use the same CHASSIS. That's right, Chassis. I do NOT know about GM, but when we had a Dodge, I went to replace the anemic 318 engine. What I wanted was a 383 big block but wound up with a 360 small block. A man who had worked for Dodge told me "Good Thing - They used different crossmembers for the Slant Six, the Small V8, and the Big V8. 2. Particularly if you have to emissions test, you're on track about Donor Vehicle. It is VERY possible that not only is the Engine Control Module different, the wiring harness might also be different. This may go deeper than you want to cut. Counterintuitive that the 350/5.7L will fall short and the new 6.0L does a decent job, but true. It's a different engine, not just 0.3L displacement. If you want to get radical, you can Stroke your 350 to 6.2L (377, 383, something like that. Also years ago there was a 400-CID small block. I think it was a special block, though, not something you can create from a 350. Any case, you'd have to allow for, or be sure the ECM allowed for, greater fuel demand from the larger engine.
j-d 10/22/14 07:13am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Loss of Shore Power

This looks like a 50-AMP coach, but I'll still share what's been found on 30A units with Shore Tie permanently wired to the coach on the coach end: The Wire Nut Connections in the Flexible Shore Tie to Hard Coach Wiring fail. If there's a junction box where Shore Tie enters Coach, look there.
j-d 10/22/14 06:02am Tech Issues
RE: Check your newer Suburban HW Heater

Looks like the rolled edges in the pic can chafe both the Red wires at the top and at least one of the Black wires at the bottom. The pic is SW6 series. Is this the model OP found the problem with? I think a split piece of hose/tubing over the sharp edge would be a good safety.
j-d 10/22/14 05:57am Tech Issues
RE: Blue Ox vs ???

Blue Ox is a cleaner looking setup than (at least most) Roadmaster setups. RM may have recently caught up, but with BO you'd disconnect the coach-mounted towbar, un-twist a couple adapters and have a clean toad. Most RM owners left the adapters and crossbar in place because it's a pain to remove three pieces. You'll recognize them because their car looks like it has a snowplow frame on it. That said, I'm convinced RM makes the structurally stronger setups. The Ready Brute lineup from Night Shift Auto is another outstanding product and offers integrated braking. You can use one brand's bar with another brand's baseplate. My advice is to look at the baseplate kits on-line. Parts list and install instructions. You'll get an idea how it ties to your specific toad and what it'll look like when done. Also there's a Degree of Difficulty giving you an idea if you want to DIY or how time consuming/invasive it'll be for pro install.
j-d 10/22/14 05:51am Dinghy Towing
RE: Any upgrade to cruise control? 1993 E350

I guess a vacuum leak could do this. We had an older C with a carbureted 460. Long time ago, but I remember the Cruise had to be supplied by Manifold Vacuum not Ported Vacuum. If the Cruise is using vacuum to control the Throttle and the Throttle is changing the Vacuum, you can guess it isn't going to go smoothly. Also, our EGR valve failed, rusted out. When we replaced it, the system got out of whack again. I fixed that with an improvised "vacuum restrictor." Looking at Amazon, they have several new cruise units around $200. 21st century electronic design.
j-d 10/21/14 06:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hood won't open

I went out and looked at ours. Really couldn't find much to suggest. I take it the hood won't come off the fully closed part of the latch. Bouncing down on the hood, or bouncing down and tugging up, WHILE the inside handle is pulled, might get it to release. The release cable runs from driver side, of course, just below the radiator support. It can be reached from the upper outer (driver side, near the headlight) opening in the grille. But then what? Person in front could tug on it while person inside tugs on the handle. You could reach in and cut it, then strip it down to pull on the core with vise grips, but my guess is the problem is in the latch mechanism not the cable. I could just touch the lower driver side corner of the latch, which is where the cable attaches with one screw. I do NOT think it'd be likely to catch the core, to the right (passenger side) of that screw with a hook made from a coat hanger or the like. DID look like removing the wipers and air inlet grille to get at the hinges would work but the latch likely won't let go of the hood. Here's what I suggest: 1. Talk to a Service Manager or Assistant Manager at a Ford Dealer 2. Or perhaps a Locksmith who does vehicle lockouts - Or a Body Shop 3. Post the question on an auto forum like batauto.com since this problem is the same for all Ford Van types across a range of years
j-d 10/21/14 01:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Kitchen will not shut off,Drips

I got the white version of http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Q5QLW03IL._SP160,160,0,T_.jpg from Amazon under $30. It's a quarter-turn "washerless" faucet. The old ones use brass washer cartridges which Amazon sells and are probably available at big box stores.
j-d 10/20/14 08:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban sw6d hot water heater

Go to Chris Bryant's Site and get the Service Manual. I think you'll find that this heater uses Flame Sensing. If so, the same element that the ignition spark jumps from is also the Sensor. It's pretty scientific and I'm not so I can say that it senses Ionization... That is different from the old Thermocouple scheme. If the Flame Sensor is out of place or perhaps even dirty, it'll not realize a flame is burning. It's doing re-light attempts and only does X number of those before giving up till you cycle the On/Off switch. Manual will tell all.
j-d 10/20/14 11:28am Tech Issues
RE: Kitchen will not shut off,Drips

Amazon has Phoenix Brand RV faucets for sinks and basins. Probably a couple more like maybe shower valves. After some comparison shopping I went Phoenix/Amazon Prime for both Kitchen and Bath Vanity. The new Phoenix kitchen faucet is a high lift one and we really like it. The SPACING of the two holes ours mount into is standard, but some home units want a center hole and the RV did not have that. Easy half hour job to change both.
j-d 10/20/14 05:22am Tech Issues
RE: Only two curcuits working on trailer wiring pigtail

I know that (at least some of the) Fords have a second fuse panel for trailer lighting. Don't know if the GM units do or not. Does Owner Manual refer to one? Our Ford minivan has a second panel and it's in the driver side REAR of the vehicle, not anywhere I'd've thought to look for it.
j-d 10/17/14 04:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Duo Therm Penguin 15K heat pump

The check I suggested is to see if the compressor is being powered up but cannot start. Your system is what I'd call "complex" being Heat Pump and Wall Thermostat, but let's see what you find out. It should have a Freeze Sensor which stops the Compressor if the Evaporator Coil ices up. I tinker with the simple systems, so I don't know what would happen if that Sensor fails or comes disconnected. Do you have the Model Number for this Penguin? Maybe we can look up a wiring diagram.
j-d 10/17/14 06:05am Tech Issues
RE: Saving my 84 Norcold Fridge...if possible

Should be a service manual on Chris Bryant's Page. If it's like newer fridges, a Thermistor that is failed "open" or "high" will cause the unit to cool continuously. IF that's true of your fridge, then simply unplugging the 'mistor from the board should cause the fridge to run. There's a replacement called Snip-the-Tip that many here have had good luck with. But look at a manual, see if fuse(s) blown etc. And...WELCOME!!!
j-d 10/16/14 01:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Duo Therm Penguin 15K heat pump

Do you feel safe getting up on the roof to listen to it and do a few tests? If so, first thing I'd like you to try: With the system "cold", meaning you haven't been trying to operate it for half an hour or so... Have somebody turn the system to COOL while you listen carefully, right at the cover. What you're listening for is a CLICK. That would be the compressor trying to start, producing internal heat while trying, and a safety device popping open to prevent damage. You may not hear it over the fan noise. This won't fix your problem but help isolate it. Compressor GETTING power but not starting is different from compressor NOT getting power. This Penguin uses a Wall Thermostat, correct? Ducted or not? The easier troubleshooting is non-ducted units with no wall thermostat...
j-d 10/16/14 07:15am Tech Issues
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