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 > Your search for posts made by 'j-d' found 1277 matches.

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RE: New Tires... What would you have done.

I saw a Class C on Dodge at Yaquina Point Lighthouse a couple years ago and saw the rims'd been switched to 16". Hoped to find the owner and ask what it took but didn't see anybody around. Coach was gone after I'd climbed the Light. Ford from 1984-up is easy. Just bolt later model wheels on. I'm not familiar with Chevy and Dodge. Gotta say, a little surprised an '88 Chevy still had 16.5" wheels.
j-d 02/01/15 12:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Tires... What would you have done.

Info courtesy CapriRacer, one of our OP's and a tire man. You should have been able to find 16.5" Radials. Probably 8.75R16.5 in Load Range D. I'm actually shocked somebody said they could get you some bias tires and NOT radials. We had bias on a one-to van years ago. Wheels felt square for the first few miles. Had to start it and put it in gear to get out of the garage. With radials on it I could push it out of the garage one hand. If/When you want to change tires again, look up the specs for the wheels you have now. Hub or Lug Centered, Center Hole Diameter, Lug Pattern and Offset. Then see if you can find similar specs for 16" wheels and go for the most popular vehicle that uses them.
j-d 02/01/15 11:44am Class C Motorhomes
RE: toasted wheel bearing

There is no such thing as brake drum rotation direction. Drum, Yes. But Trailer Brakes are built as Right Side and Left Side units. The DRUM itself may not care which way it turns/which side it's on, but the Brake sure does.
j-d 02/01/15 09:33am Tech Issues
RE: WInegard Sensar IV - size of hole through roof?

If you ever need to adjust that 15/16" nut that holds the rotating top piece to the fixed roof plate, you'll need a little clearance for the tool.
j-d 02/01/15 09:28am Tech Issues
RE: toasted wheel bearing

We've had cases recently where brakes didn't work on new trailers because the hubs were over-greased. The transporters are the suspects. I wonder if a few axles were installed short on grease so the transporters grease the snot out of them just to be sure they don't get stranded during the delivery.
j-d 02/01/15 05:30am Tech Issues
RE: How to reduce generator noise?

Jose, which onboard genset do you have? We had ONAN "4.0 RV GenSet" aka "BFA." I'm sure it produced more dB than our current MicroLite 4.0 "KY" but at a lower pitch that wasn't as annoying. It was twin-cyl and 1800 RPM and the newer one is single-cyl 3600 RPM. When I installed the BFA I didn't realize the rubber mounts between genny and mounting pan were collapsed, so we had far more vibration in the coach than a BFA should have produced. It took me two helpers to get it in place an I just didn't ever pull it back out. Outside, didn't sound too bad. Inside it was like having a garden tractor running in a closet.
j-d 02/01/15 04:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire sizes

Are they Listed on This Page? If the size includes "LT" as opposed to "P" they should be what you need for an RV. Another tip that they are, is TWO Service Descriptions. The LT types have two because they perform differently in Single and Dual Applications. I stress this because not all the Dynapro tires are "LT". Our sizes are available in "P" as well as "LT" and "P" won't carry our load.
j-d 01/31/15 08:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire sizes

What Capri said... He's a tire man and great to have around here. Hankook seems to be working out very well. If they are "LT" and Load Range "D" they'll work on E350. Most tires in that size are Load Range "E" which is required for E450 (or the late 1990's "E-Super Duty", same vehicle). More common is the LT225/75R16. The LT125/85R16 is a little taller and a little narrow than the 225/75 but has the same pressure-to-load ratings. Learn to read Tire Date Codes. Refer to the top example. The rest are exceptions. As an example, "0215" would mean second week of January this year. "2614" would mean they were made middle of last year. Then go to a Truck Scale (like CAT Scales in this directory) and get at least front and rear axle weights, loaded and occupied as for a trip. Inflate the tires according to a chart like This one from Michelin. All that matters is that you get the right tire size and pick single or dual. It doesn't matter that your Hankooks are all season and the Michelins are ribs. Only the size and wheel position. There's no need to overinflate the rears. All it does is worsen the ride. BUT!!! Don't run the FRONT with any more pressure than the Load calls for! Coach will track much better with the correct pressure for the weight on the front axle.
j-d 01/30/15 06:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

Just spit ballin here, j-d. Jose Me too, my friend. I removed manifolds on our '83 460 and I know they had no smog fittings. But I recall A.I.R. fittings in the rear of the heads. I remember a MoPar 318 >> 360 swap where the 360 was later model and had little air holes under the exhaust ports of the heads. The manifolds I wanted to use didn't cover those holes. A friend called a speed shop and came back with this answer: "Take Twenty-Penny Nails. Cut them in short pieces and pound them into those holes." And so I did. Worked out just fine. But it was a 1971 vehicle, and only 1973 and later were being smog tested at the time. FL since eliminated its smog program. But this makes me wonder if the EFI 460's use a similar design, where some ports in the heads don't get covered by the flange on Hedman Hedders. Hey OP! Maybe check out FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiasts) or one of the Ford performance sites. Guys are putting 460's into Mustangs... And if I recall, a 460 can be hogged out to 534 or some huge number close to that.
j-d 01/29/15 08:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Water Intrusion repair question

I've heard of the Pinstripe Eraser called a "Vanilla Wheel." I didn't have any luck with that term in a search engine. There's a brand of custom auto wheels and that flavor of Vanilla got all the hits. But I remember hearing that NAPA had the Vanilla Eraser.
j-d 01/29/15 07:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

Well Shucks! The detail on the two part numbers Jose provided says "without injection heads" so Hedman seems to be (stand by for awful pun...) a-head of us on this. Now I don't know what to say. It seems Ford went to EFI on these vehicles in a random sort of way. It used to seem to me that the 1989 units were the first with 460/EFI and it was a 100% change. By 1991 (last year of the square body) they'd all've been EFI. Yet Hedman's list takes in a bunch of years, all the way to 1991, and says in the fine print, "No EFI." Just pulled up the catalog and the notes (1. and 110.) both say "No EFI" and the part numbers for the Header Gaskets are different too. Maybe visit a speed shop and see what they say. If they don't know they often have a guru they can call that you might otherwise never find. Should add, LOVED the 3" Flowmaster Exhaust System. You're as well off with an expertly crafted 3" single than lesser 2-1/2" duals, and you don't have to find paths among all the stuff under an RV.
j-d 01/29/15 02:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Breakaway car

I wouldn't rule out an installer skipping anything that had to be drilled and do only a bolt/on job. If I'm a DIY and what I'm doing calls for say a drill, I'll go buy one. Bought a $30 bit from a specialty shop to drill one hole in each of two leaf springs. First went well. Drill was shot by the time we finished the second. Cost of being a DIY. But I digress, chances are this was a "professional installation."
j-d 01/29/15 09:09am Dinghy Towing
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

1992 Chassis Year began the "new" rounded body style, replacing 1977-91 style that was more squared. I know for a fact that Flowmaster had different "cat-back" exhaust systems for the two generations. That tells me they had to work with different configurations, probably to avoid interferences. I'd sooner believe that headers for the early generation with carb would work on early generation EFI, Than.. that late generation MPI would work on early generation EFI. Look up Exhaust Manifold Gaskets for the two 460's. If they're the same, the headers should bolt up. I doubt very seriously Ford changed the Firing Order, which would impact header effectiveness. As I said earlier in this thread, I believe the Carb-vs-EFI header issue has to do with connecting antipollution components.
j-d 01/28/15 01:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

Yo! Jose! I looked at Amazon, and saw some of the Hedman Hedders looked like long tube. But I don't think any were spec'd for 460 in a "van." Which ones did you actually get?
j-d 01/27/15 08:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

A remark by Jose who may be at work and can get back with you later.
j-d 01/27/15 09:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

As I mentioned, a couple members here have recently considered headers and some got them. Give this question awhile to soak, and you may hear something helpful.
j-d 01/27/15 09:06am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Breakaway car

I'm not going to try and blow the images up and study them like a forensic, but here's what it seems like to me: I don't think just the baseplate pulled off. Looks more like part of the unibody subframe separated. If the baseplate worked loose it could have "worried" the subframe welds. Also looks like the Chevy is repairable. If so... Would I want to tow it again, using the repaired welds...? Maybe not, but a repair might be better than the original welds.
j-d 01/27/15 08:44am Dinghy Towing
RE: Headers for a 1988 Ford 460 engine

Don't run off. A couple of the guys here have gotten 460 headers recently. You're better off with headers that have long tubes, which promote low/midrange torque. That's what you need for a heavy load like a motorhome. The more popular, and less expensive, "shorty" headers are for HP at high rpm. The Thorley Tri-Y headers, which come with a crossover pipe to a large single exhaust system, are the gold standard in Class C headers. Them and Bank$. Is your vehicle subject to emissions testing? It's possible that the emission system on the EFI engine calls for a different emissions complying system than the carbed engine does.
j-d 01/27/15 08:35am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dometic fridge R&R

Propane fridge has been around a long time. Most of the first home fridges (right after the Ice Box/Block Ice Age) were "absorption" like RV's still are. They used to be able to run totally free-standing. No electricity required. As I said, newer RV fridges offer electronic convenience (no lighting a pilot, no manual selection between LPG and electricity...) but at the expense of needing 12VDC to operate. The RV fridge uses very little LPG and has a low wattage demand on 120VAC. The test for a good cooling unit is based on using the 120VAC element, but many of us here believe cooling is actually better on LPG. For a variety of reasons, some of which we can actually thank Momma Nanny Gov't for, Compressor-based fridges have gotten much more efficient (power consumption-wise) than they used to be. This puts those fridges within the power availability of an RV. Some people have replaced a working RV fridge pre-emptively with an apartment fridge. I think most who have done it have done so because the RV fridge was inop or unreliable. Yes, you can run one on a Solar/Battery combination. I have zero competence in how to size the solar panels, how many of what kind of batteries, etc. to use. But I DO have a little competence in is limited RV fridge troubleshooting. I'd suggest a little checking and troubleshooting to determine if what you have will work or is easily repairable. A well-cared-for RV fridge that age can still be serviceable. The killer of RV fridges is operating them off-level. Doing that causes the Cooling Unit to get blocked up and that isn't repairable. Want to check it out? You'll need a Volt Meter, an old appliance cord, some electrical connectors, a couple hand tools, and oh, a Dollar Bill...
j-d 01/27/15 06:44am Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater on the brink

To post a Photo... 1. Photo cannot be posted from your PC. Must be on a website somewhere. If you have a personal site, fine. If it's something for sale on a commercial site, you can usually post it. Most of us upload to some Photo Site (flickR, photoBucket, etc.). You're actually linking to the site the photo is on and displaying it in RV.net. 2. Next to this Quick Reply heading, there's "Advanced Post Form." Click that and then the little icon on top that looks like a yellow postcard. 3. Get the photo's "Properties" from the site it's on and copy that info to the field on the Photo popup. 4. After you past the properties in, you can select "Preview" from that icon row and see your photo.
j-d 01/26/15 08:46pm Tech Issues
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