RE: 7 Way Trailer Wiring With IBC
I complete the wiring on my after marker controller on a 2008 truck with the ITBC installed. You have to run a blue wire from under the dash (connected to the brake controller) all the way to the connector located on the rear bumper, cut the blue wire at the connector and connect the wire you just ran to it. Complete the wire splicing under the dash using the diagram for your controller. The flying end of the wiring harness are located above your left knee when in the driver's seat. I drove it on a test run and it works great. The location for the controller leaves something to be desired but at least I will be able to leave for Myrtle Beach tomorrow.
Catfish
RE: Front Jacks
Some legs appear to have been designed without enough weight capacity. On my old rig, there was a bunch of weight on my front legs and it caused the motor to go out twice - a small gear made of pot metal just sheared off. After the second time, I removed the shaft that connected the motor to the 90 degree gear box and installed a seperate switch to control each motor/leg. Worked like a charm with each leg handling 1/2 the load. Also, there is an advantage in adjusting each leg on uneven ground. My frame is beafy enough to not worry about any possible twisting. Your results might vary.
Catfish
RE: 7 Way Trailer Wiring With IBC
Seems to be a lot of confusion going on here.
1) The under the hood blue wire needs to be connected only if you are going to use an aftermarket controller. Otherwise, leave it alone.
2) If you are going to replace the IBC with an aftermarket controller, you have to disconnect the blue wire from the IBC and replace it with the blue wire from the new controller (which you have powered with the new connection under the hood.)
3) You must connect the other, heavier wire (located by the brake master cylinder) if you want a 12V power source going to your trailer.
4) And finally, if you want to install electric over hydraulic brakes and use the IBC, you need to purchase two brake magnets and connect them in parallel to the blue wire and white wire (in the trailer, not the truck). This simple "fix" allows the IBC to see the connection to the trailer's braking system. The constant 12V power wire goes to the hydraulic actuator (as well as the blue wire and anything else that is needed per the wiring diagram).
There is some amount of confusion alright. Below is a web site that has the correct way to install an after market controller to control electric-over-hydrualic brakes, if you have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller installed by the factory or dealership. Sorry 'bout the long URL but hey, I'm an electrician not a serious nerd.
www.etrailer.com/tb-aftermarket-brake-control-wiring-for-2007-2008-gm-full-size-truck-08-0100.aspx or simplier; just go to etrailer.com and search for it!
Following their instructions (a video) I had no problem finding the wire harness below the dash. It also says that the original ITBC will not give a warning on the truck's driver info panel if you have one, connected as above. And you don't have to "fool" the ITBC with no stinkin magnets!!
Hope this helps.
Catfish
RE: 7 Way Trailer Wiring With IBC
If you use an after market controller with a factory installed Integrated Trailer Brake Controller (because the ITBC cannot be used on electric over hydraulic disk brakes, according to the owner's manual) where under the dash are the wires located on a 2008 GMC?Chevy to which to connect the controller?
RE: heat for tanks
Some of the heat blankets are mounted under the tanks; the tanks sit on them. The heated underbelly is great if you use your furnace all the time. However, some folks use electrical space heaters to save propane and the heat from them does not go to the underbelly storage area, unless you have some kind of fan to push the heat there. The heat blankets are worth the money if you store your rig with power on or if you "camp" in very cold weather. JMHO, your mileage may vary.
Catfish
RE: 30 v/s 50 amps
this is one topic that I know. The 50 amp service (or the 30 amp for that matter) is only a single 120 volt supply that applies to both "hot" plug pins. It is not 220 volt or 2 different 120 volts, only 1.The same as a simple receptacle in your home only a higher amperage.
I don't think you do. A 50 amp RV circuit is much like the 100 amp service in a house (yours my be higher) In the RV two 110 parallel circits protected by a single 50 amp breaker. The house has a 100 amp breaker and heavier wire going into the circuit breaker panel. If you choose to you can use them for a 220 volt circuit, like for an electric range. I've never seen a 220 volt appliance for an RV, but if there is one a 50 amp service will accomodate it. 50 amp RV wiring
Try this: Turn the power off at the pedestal; Remove the cover from your electrical power box (the one inside your trailer); Connect volt meter leads to each terminal on the main 50 amp breaker. Turn the power back on. Read the meter - it will be somewhere between 208VAC to 230VAC, which is exactly what you would have at your stick & bricks house. 220volts is available but the breaker arrangement on most RV's does not allow 220 volts to be supplied across a load. Each leg, i.e. each terminal of the 50 amp main breaker, supplies a nominal 115VAC. If you put a double pole breaker in the power panel, you could use the 220volts to operate a house-style dryer, for example.
Some high end 5th wheels and motor homes are now being wired to supply 220volt circuits.
The reason you cannot get good results when operating on a 30 amp circuit is that the total 30 amps available are split between two different electrical "busses". On a 50 amp service, you actually have 50 amps supplied to each of these busses resulting in a total of 100 amps available. Actual amperage should never reach 30 amps on a 30 amp circuit nor 100 amps on a 50 amp circuit because good practice and the NEC states that circuits should be loaded to only 80% of their rated load.
You can manufacture a cable adapter that will allow a 50 amp unit to be operated from a 30 amp pedestal. It is easier, and probably just as economical to buy a cable that has a 50 amp connector at the trailer and a 30 amp connector to plug into the pedestal (available from CW and other sources). That is the route I have used since 1997. I have the adapter cable for overnights that do not require high amperage and the regular 50 amp cable for longer stays. Of course your experience may vary.
Regards,
Catfish
RE: Trailer brake controller for disc brake
My 5er came from the factory with electric over hydraulic disk brakes. They changed my controller to a PREDATOR DX2 and it worked great on the old Ford. With the new Chebbie, I cannot use the factory optioned and supplied Integrated Brake Controller so I am trying to find a good location for the Predator controller. I think I will end up mounting it over (i.e. on top of) the built-in controller location.
RE: Bed Liner, Should I, Remove,Spray,Cut,Toss, for burger
The install instructions for Reese 5er hitches says to use your "B" option. If a drop in is to be used, cut holes in the liner and install the hitch directly to metal. Worked for me on my old Ford truck and I will spray on prior to installation of my next hitch on the new Chebbie.
RE: 5er Rhoads Car Carrier
What is the weight of the total addition with the load? I am thinking of the same arrangement to haul my Harley. My frame already has a factory installed 2" hitch, limited to 300 pounds, max. I need at least a 600 pound capability.
RE: Help identify this fifth wheel
The one that was made in the good old USofA was called a "Shadow" and the last one I saw was in the 1970's. It was on a dealer's lot outside Patuxent River, Maryland. Was an idea way ahead of it's time. I don't recall it having the Titanium front end though. It's claim to fame was that it did not have to be backed into a parking spot; the tow vehicle (a Cadallic at that time)was just trouned around and drove the trailer into the site. Sounds good to me.
Catfish
RE: Someone check my math - 902 lbs of HOT AIR
Shouldn't that be "use guys"? I'm from the South and it would be "yawl" or "all of yawl".
Those of use who can not count would just load up and have a blast. :)
