Before you go to the expense and time to replace the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter(s), as this also sounds similar to water in the fuel filter, keeping the gas from flowing when it is sucking a lot of gas. The filter won't let water through when it is sucking hard, blocking off the gas from getting into the engine.
I tow a 2003 VW Jetta standard, with Diesel engine. It has 330,000 miles and runs great - it is an everyday car to work and back. It works great, and whether gas or diesel, around that year should be relatively inexpensive.
I suspect that every jurisdiction is different. In Ontario, the tank has to be inspected every 5 years. I know that I have had to go to a second refill station to get propane just when I was in a rush to get away for the weekend or a trip. Best to check local regulations on the web to make sure. Remember the reason for this is to save your Motorhome or even your life. A paint job doesn't do that.
Something else other than the transmission could be water in your fuel filter. The symptoms that you mention are similar. If you added a couple of bottles of gas line antifreeze to the gas tank, and let it run for a few minutes, this will remove any water in the fuel filter, (water won't go through the fuel filter without being broken down by the antifreeze), and you should be fine. This is a cheap fix for the first thing to try. With a MH this age, and if the fuel filter hasn't been changed, this could be the problem.
I put my antenna on the roof and wired through one of the pre-existing holes in the roof, hid the wire behind trim around the door and onto the dash where the radio is located. I put a 8" X 8" metal plate on the roof with silicone an the antenna is magnetic so it attached easily. I get good reception an all directions. The antenna is on the top of the satellite cover. As for reception, I got very good XM reception in the Yukon 3 years ago, other than when driving on the north side of a mountain. The satellites are a long way up, so getting reception in the north is not a problem.
I like the idea of the recliners. The only drawback for me is if you have to turn your head much to watch TV. Try at home to sit 90 degrees to your TV, and watch for half an hour or so, and see what your neck feels like after having it turned for a long period of time. Here at my house, we have a sofa that doesn't face the TV, and I can only turn my head for about 15 minutes without getting a stiff neck. The other option is to put your TV on a long arm that can be brought out more in front of you, so that you aren't watching with your neck turned. Just a thought.
Well, you have the hitch, now you need the base plate that fits to the CRV frame. Each vehicle is unique in that regard. Then you need the braking system - you need to be aware that there are 2 kinds. The least expensive if the "on - off" type, which means your brakes are either on or off. The second is the proportional system, which applies the brakes relative to how quickly you are stopping. I would use the proportional if I were you, as it will save the brakes on the CRV. Then you need to wire the tail lights/brake lights/turn signal lights on the CRV. Lastly, check to make sure that the CRV that you have is towable 4 down, what speed you can travel with it, and do you need to stop every so many miles in order to let the tranny cool down. I know nothing about the CRV, just some of the pitfalls with towing without knowing.
Good luck, and I think the deal you are getting is quite reasonable. Getting a MH from someone that you know looked after it is worth a lot of money for the future - not having to do repairs you weren't counting on.
I used to own a '84 class C Ford E350, 26' which had a bad overhang, and a lot of scraping. I added two rubber skid rollers to the back end of each side of the frame. They added about 5 inches to the bottom of the frame, but they kept the back of the RV from dragging. The only problem was that eventually, the rubber came off the wheels and then the wheels had to be replaced.
I purchased a Class A DP a few years back, which was 2 years old. I bought the top of the line independent warranty package that I could get - about $4000. It was truly worth it. I am ahead about $10,000. If you buy used, lock in your maintenance costs when you buy with a 3 or 4 or 5 year warranty. Yes, it seems expensive up front, but compared to the difference in cost of buying new, it is cheap. $3000 or $4000 seems cheap when you are looking at replacing a gen set, or a transmission, or motor, fridge, etc. It buys you peace of mind, and fixes the costs. That's what insurance is all about - spread the costs.
I would like to point out a couple of things. First, the ad for the new Monaco says "gas pusher", meaning the engine is in the rear. It's not in the rear, which should have been noticeable to you when you drove it. Secondly, we have a 2007 Monaco LaPalma, which broke down when we were in the Yukon. Ours was one of the last Monaco's built by the old Monaco that went bankrupt. When Navistar took over Monaco, somehow they didn't do much about parts, and when we needed a part in the Yukon, we couldn't get the part from Monaco, but had to go back to the part supplier, who had to make a new part because they didn't make that part anymore. Net result was the motorhome stayed in the Yukon for 5 weeks while the new part was manufactured, while we drove back to Cambridge in our toad (4000 miles), then 5 weeks later flew back to Whitehorse to drive the MH back. Needless to say I am less than impressed with Navistar`s concern for old Monaco customers
Daksuki, Canadian electricity is measured in volts and watts and amps, same as US. Distances and volumes are metric, so when it says "100" on the speed limit sign when you cross the boarder, don't speed up to 100 MPH. The 100 is Kilometres per hour or about 62 MPH.