RE: Upgraded Charger Advice Sought
Thanks for the heads up.
I did not envision needing to use the convert (other than leaving it for a back up if needed, and wiring it back in). Can you offer why you switch between the 2? Seems like if the xantrex charger would take care of the charging and any DC loads would run off the battery (instead of the converter).
I agree with what you said about the transfer switches. The Xantrex just allows pass-through of the 120V, or if no 120V input and the inverter is on, it supplys the 120V. This current trailer does not have a transfer switch between the Gen and Shore ... although it probably should to avoid issues (like plugging in to shore with the gen breaker on and hearing a humming since it must be backfeeding the gen or something... oops).
My previous trailer had the gen output to an outlet where you had to plug the power cable into. Kind of cheap design, but no complexity of a transfer switch and no way to screw it up.
RE: Upgraded Charger Advice Sought
The Link 1000 is the advanced battery monitor and controller that allows full control of the unit (turn on/off charger/inverter) and adjusting the settings.
I know I will have to hard wire everything ... that I need to read up and draw out. Currently I have no transfer switch, there is a breaker on the house gen that must be off to run shore power. I need to see how all that is wired to figure out how to change it.
Generally no worry about quiet hours ... thus never really a "need" for an inverter (likely would only end up using it for TV). I will likely start with just the 2 batteries I think ... and not actaully use the inverter to its potential. Not supposed to have the other pair near the xantrex anyway due to the gases, so that might require modifications to the storage area.
I have not looked at how the 7355 is wired in, but imagine it is easy enough to disconnect. Then I think I can just leave the existing 6AWG wires as-is and they will continue to get power from the batteries, but be charged by the Xantrex when plugged in.
I may have to draw up some wiring diagrams to get more thoughts ...
for example, where should the battery disconnect be wired (although to date I NEVER actually use the current one on the + cable). Thought I read in another thread about disconnecting the - wire.
Thanks for your thoughts.
RE: Upgraded Charger Advice Sought
Yes, use the hugely expensive 458 somehow, anyhow. The Link would be very handy too. What a waste, sitting in yiour shed!
That is pretty much what I was thinking. It is a nice piece of equipment. Biggest concern was the possible C/2 charging rate. Is the potential reduction in battery life not that big of a deal? Or is this OK if I watch for outgassing (and add the charging temperature sensor)?
From what I have seen of toy haulers, it looks like there is a big opportunity to put a bank of batteries in the garage. If so, the 458 could go right by them and no tongue weight issues either.
Interesting thought. Mine does not have a "garage" per se (no wall separating things) it is all living space where the beds, couch, and table all fold up. So, the bank would certainly be seen and possibly in the way of loading things. Putting the weight in the back would be nice though. I have an exterior storage area under the bed in the front, so thinking the Xantrex could go there and be pretty close to the batteries.
Lots of ways to wire things up to the power centre (whole house, sub-panels, whatever)
I am going to have to think about this. Easiest would be to run the 30A shore through the Xantrex, but then would have to be careful if we switch on the interver while off-shore so that things like the refrigerator do not switch to 120V instead of gas. Usually I have it on Auto so that it switches when the generator is on, but if the gen run time is reduced, then I would not really be saving much propane anyway.
So I will add another question:
5. Xantrex lists using a 300A type T fuse. I see that there are fuses that large which are terminal mounted (easier install, only 1 cable instead of 2 meaning fewer connections, cheaper). Anyone know how the terminal fuse differs from the expensive T-fuse? Acceptible or stick with the expensive T-type?
Thanks.
RE: Upgraded Charger Advice Sought
Guess I wrote too much and the details got buried.
-Planning on upgrading to the pair of 6volts ... as I think the current batteries are not actually a deep cycle and lasted less than a day.
-I have the 7355 converter. Was under the impression that charging is VERY slow with this (days vs hours) and that the lack of a true "float" was bad for the batteries leaving connected to shore power.
Upgraded Charger Advice Sought
I have read this board a lot, but have not had to ask very many questions in the past. I Just finished reading the 35 page thread on a related note and hope this question does not result in the same "discussion"
Background:
-Bought a used toyhauler a few years ago that just got new batteries ... but they are group 24 and may not even be deep cycle.
-Trailer has a Parallax 7355, 6 AWG wires probably about a 15' run
-Trailer has a 4000W Generac generator, but I usually use a 2000W Honda since it is quieter
-Recent trip, batteries could not keep the heat on all night (lows in 40s), had to use my truck to jump start the house generator (rope broke on the Honda).
-At I home, I generally leave connected to 30A shore power (camp for the weekend once every 2 months or so). Water level stays reasonable and I top them off
-Guessing that leaving on shore power for months and then in adequate charging on site has either damaged the batteries, or they are just too small.
Desires:
-Upgrade to two 6V batteries (have to go on tongue and this may be the most Ah I can fit) ... AGM seem pricy (although the high charge rate could be important to my questions below)
-Upgrade to a better charger
Thoughts:
I have read quite a bit and was considering upgrading to the PD4655 (~$200) to get a smarter charger that may work better to charge the batteries while dry camping and perform better while left hooked to shore power for months at a time. I now realize that if I did this I would also likely want to upgrade the wiring to take full advantage (~$100). Alternatively, I could spend a little less and locate a new charger/converter up front (shorter wires) and keep the 7355 as backup.
Then I remembered that I have a Xantrex Freedom 458 2000W Inverter/Charger and the Link 1000 (minus the shunt and wires) just sitting in my shed. So thought, maybe I should just finally get around to installing that up front close to the batteries. Having to buy the shunt and shorter 00+ cables might end up costing me the same (and some more labor), but maybe the charger is better and I would then have the inverter to watch TV (or even run the MV since it is so larger).
Questions:
1. Ignoring the max amps, is the Xantrex charger better than the PD4655?
2. The Xantrex is a 100A charger which is pretty big for a wet cell 220 Ah battery bank. How bad is this? Any way to easily lower the charger output?
3. I was concerned about the Honda even being able to run the Xantrex (lists 21A @ 120V a max), but then saw the Power Share Setting, where it looks like I can set the AC max current supply. So, I think I could lower it to ~15A (default is 30A) and the Xantrex would then limit to charger (plus any 120V pass through) to that Amp level. Sound right?
4. I understand that the large Xantrex will have higher draw even in idle (than a smaller inverter), but I would likely leave the Inverter function off for the most part. Bottom line: Is using the Xantrex with this setup a bad idea or is it reasonably workable? Should I consider some other alternative setup?
I have a few other detail questions (fuse types, spliting the 120V circuits, etc), but figure I will start with these and elaborate when a path forward is determined.
Thanks for any thoughts and advice in advance.
RE: Suburban Oven Pilot Won't Stay Lit
Looking at the powerpiles online, looks like they are larger and have 2 wires. I think mine only has 1 wire (although there may be a ground wire too I guess).
Last night I got it working and was finding if I wiggled the connector to the manual switch the pilot valve would turn off ... so I started again thinking it could be internal to the switch. At this point it seems to be working, no matter how much I wiggle stuff around, so may have been something loose.
I would like to find a reference to see how much voltage I should be reading from the "sensor" {I see all the parts diagrams call it a thermocouple}. I suppose it could be weak leading to the valve sensitivity, or it could be something in the mechanical switch.
I guess I will keep messing with it and try to use it see if it stops again.
RE: Suburban Oven Pilot Won't Stay Lit
Ugh ... still need to get this fixed.
Does anyone know how much voltage is required to keep the valve open? I noticed tonight that using a lighter I have about 17 mV at the thermopile connector, but only about 8 mV on the other side of the mechanical switch that is closed when the knob is turned on. Wondering if that switch is somehow bad ... BUT ... when I pull off the connection I get 0 resistance across it, so the voltage drop seems odd.
When I used a piece of 12AWG wire between the thermopile connector and the connector to the valve ... everything seemed to be working fine. Pilot stayed on the entire time. The only "danger" with just skipping the mechanical switch is that the pilot stays on when you turn the knob to off. When you blow out the flame, the gas turns off. So, that may be the easiest solution ... just remember to blow out the pilot so the gas does not get used.
A couple odd observations:
- The thermopile connector and the valve connector have continuity with ground. This surprised me ... sound normal?
- When I measured the voltage on the loose thermpile connector I got about 27 mV, but when it was connected to the mechanical switch and the valve was connected to the other side, I got the 17 mV and 8 mV as mentioned above. Not sure why having the switch connected would lower the voltage ... unless it was just due to lower heat of just using the lighter and not the actual pilot.
Curious if anything jumps out at anyone as odd ... or if other suggestions to test come to mind.
I may see if I can find another switch cheap and see if that fixes things. If not, I may just opt to wire the thermopile directly to the valve.
