Most of the pumps that I have seen use the 3" pipe and macerate the contents down to a garden hose size.
Most of these pumps are $200-400 range.
.........Thanks , flojet makes several macerator pumps I just need to find the one with the most lift capacity ! , jf
Have you looked at the valve? The problem is frequently a broken or loose cable.
............It's not broken yet , I'm trying to prepare in case it does ! I figure I can purchase a suction pump for the same price it would cost me to pay someone to pump the tank out !
............Someone makes a pump where you can run an ordinary garden hose into the holding tank via the commode and suction out most of the contents.......I've seen them advertised ! thanks , jf
I sold my jayco f/w and am looking for an apenlite 30' f/w but have
found that is not as easy as i thought. any ideas
.........1999 Alpenlite-29 foot , $11,900 , DFW area ,
.........Cl rvfpc-3830518673 , 972-351-7045
Pull your cover and see if the foam seal is contacting evenly. My main AC was pulling hot outside air thru the non sealed areas as was the bedroom AC. I bought two Dometic foam seal kits removed the old foam cleaned the surfaces installed the foam and now it is easy to keep the RV cool at over 100 degrees outside.
.............Good advise......I , also would encourage you to remove the exterior plastic cover which contains the filter for the return air ! Shine a flashlight UP and you should see the galvanized metal partition with a foam seal on it's top edge.......the foam seal should be pressed firmly against the metal bottom of the A\C unit. This seal and metal partition separate the cold air output from the return air being sucked up , through the filter . IF there is a leak , the cold air is pulled , BACK INTO , the Return air flow and just going in circles and never entering into the duct system and subsequently into the trailer !
.............You should also check the 1\4" x 10 inch mounting fasteners and see IF they are 'Snug'.......if loose that can cause a partial loss of cold air as well ! Be very aware of how much you tighten them down , you can get TOO Tight and create more problems as well ! Use your common sense IF they are loose and need attention .
.............I have found that during the extreme heat of the summer months , I activitate the fan to run full time , on High , and set the temp at 73 f.......this causes the compressor to stay engaged continuously which is a good thing because it keeps the cold air flowing . IF , You set it at say 80f , it will cycle off and on and Not deliver the same volume of cold air because it isn't running part of the time , so set the temps low enough to keep it running all day long . , jf
Need to replace my front AC and am looking for recommendations replacing a Coleman 13.5.
........When you remove your A\C unit , take some of that foil backed tape and completely seal the 14"x14" hole in the roof ! Upon inspection you will notice many , many small small cracks that allow a significant % 0f your cold air to escape into the ceiling of your trailer . If your system has ducts in the ceiling tape them as well .
........The other potential problem occurs when the partition meant to separate cold air from return air doesn't exert itself against the bottom metal surface of the A\C unit ! IF , it isn't sealing as it should be , cold air will be sucked back into the return air flow . , jf
How easy are they to replace and do you need to reset your WD equipment after an install?
Almost any of them that I looked at for that platform are just bolt on. On my 2004/05 Suburbans I think there was six bolts. Two on each side rail and two going to the bumper. Remove the bolts, remove old reciever, put new receiver on and instal bolts.
It's fairly easy to do. I think I had mine done in about a half an hour to switch the receiver.
When I changed mine the pin box was now right below the hitch, so I had to lower my WDH head. Lots of examples and instructions on this forum and the internet on how to adjust your WDH depending on what you are using.
............My factory hitch is the same as yours ! Two bolts through the bumper and 4 to the frame ! The "V" that that the receiver is welded too , doesn't look very substantial to me nor do the welds either . , jf
.........My Chevy 2003 3500 dually is equipped the factory hitch , BUT I've heard rumors that these hitchs have had problems ! Just looking at the hitch , it doesn't look that well made to me . Thanks , jf
..........Usually , you can tell where the seams are between the sheets of plywood ! Stay away from those seams , because that is the weak point on most Rv roofs ! You can feel the plywood bending down IF you step in the wrong place . , jf
I have to admit that I am totally confused re: inside switch/outside switch on the hot water heater. I just picked up my new 5th wheel. Did a rapid walk through at the dealers, and have our first trip out this coming weekend. The switch is set to ön" at the outside water heater compartment. Water system has been primed. So when I hook up, do I turn the inside water heater switch to ÖN" also? I have read the instructions 30 times, and am scared to death to do anything at this point. Yes, this is a very new newbie asking the question.... Thanks! This forum has been SO helpful!
.........The electricial heating element has it's own switch ! The "Other" switch turns on the power to the Igniter to light the propane........it should have a red light that will come on , then go off because there is gas present . If you are out of propane the red light will come on and STAY ON telling you there is NO propane present . , jf
What can you do without trouble with only a 30 amp connection? Run a Splendide washer/dryer? If you have a 15000BTU a/c unit, can you use it at all with a 30 amp connection? Other considerations?
...........If , you want to get maximum usage out of a 30 amp plug , use a 50 amp power cord with a short adapter on each end of the 50 amp cord . This way you have virtually , NO voltage drop from the outside plug to the connection on your RV .
...........Voltage and amperage move in Opposite directions , i.e. , IF you use a regular 30 amp RV extension cord , the voltage will start dropping under heavy usage , which makes the amperage climb , your plugs get VERY hot and cause more problems , thus popping the 30 amp breaker ! , jf
Pulling the camper out this afternoon (it sits on a pad beside the house) and I dropped the right side tires off onto the yard. We've had a bunch of rain and the ground is soft. She sank about 9", almost to the axle. Had to use 4 low on the truck to pull it out and now I can look forward to fixing the 20' trench I made and repairing the sprinkler heads. Mama was freaking out, I think she thought we'd never get it out! Nobody's fault but my own. I'll bet I won't make that mistake again!
............It's..........Lemmonade Time boys ! I'd just buy some sackcrete , a few sticks of 3/8's rebar , and "Pack yer ditches" with cement . Might have'ta do a grubbing hoe work to get a uniform depth and straighten'em out but atleast they won't require any forms .
............You could hire 'Bubba' from down the street for the heavy liftin !lol , jf
..........You should never pour mineral spirits , acetone , lacquer thinner , etc. directly onto a Rubber Roof(EPDM)! Doing so will dissolve the rubber roof as well as the glue that attaches it to plywood underneath . You will end up with a Bubble and potential problems down the road ! Mineral spirits is a very good cleaner , BUT it should be poured on a rag , and IF the roof is rubbed too hard it can still cause the roof to come lose from the plywood . I would use some kind of mild soap rather than MS's .
...........You should clean the area around the leak then apply a length of Eternabond to fix the leak . Eternabond can be applied over existing caulk if the lose caulk has been removed . , jf
Not to hijack the thread, but why do you say that the ez lube are not good for trailers that are going to be sitting for a while? Are you confusing the ez lube with oil bath?
............The recommendation is dexter's , not mine ! You can find it on their website relative to the various flavors of axles they sell ! , jf
I'm on my second HR Alumascape (same one you are looking at) and have had no issues with the build quality of either of them. In fact they are built a lot better than the majority of the others and this is based on before and after Monaco. There are always the problematic units in every manufacture's line. The only issue with the 33SQK that I have found is the fact that they put the never lube axle's under it. These are not the best axles to use. I've had an issue where the axle nut (nyloc) holding the wheel on had back off a little(or just wasn't torqued) and the washer behind it bent in causing play. I caught this doing my standard maint and checks. I have it repaired but planning on swapping out the axles for the Dexter Ez-Lube. I just don't trust anything that doesn't require maintenance. Will I sell it because of this issue? no. Would it discourage me from another one? no. Every manufacture will have issues. And depending on who you talk to it will either be the best thing on earth or the biggest POS.
...........If , the trailer is going to spend long periods of time in one position without moving , Easy Lube axles are....NOT....recommended for these types of circumstances . , jf
.............The #1 MOST Important item to check\repair on ANY trailer is the ....ROOF !!! A leaking roof can literally ruin the trailer and all structures and items inside the trailer . Until you have a water proof seal on the Roof your trailer is going to suffer damage every time it rains . , jf
Thanks for all of the response so far, I have been married to my hubby for 35 years now so I am pretty sure what he likes. He would have no issue with my surprising him! If it was reversed though I agree---love the man but, he can not shop and does not like the hassle!!
I bought him a motorcycle years ago---he loved it and loved that he did not have to shop around---I am a much better shopper/negotiator and he knows it.
We have been tossing around the idea getting a new truck for quite a while.
I will be trading in my SUV on the truck (bought that one myself too). We have the 250 and a small car (both pd for) that we will sell afterwards and then I will get something used with those proceeds (maybe something sporty?)
Our current 5th wheel will probably be our retirement camper--if we are able to upgrade at some point it will be of equal or lesser size.
Many of you are confirming where I was leaning---1 ton--long bed--
I was just now sure on the gear ratio?
How about price---since I have just started---how do the brands compare?
..........ONE factor here yet to be discussed.......In the next 3 years or so , either Ford , GM , or Dodge will introduce a gasser with a turbo charger that will be a MUCH more capable hauler at much higher altitudes than the current selection of 6.2 liter engines ! So , don't get in a hurry to purchase a new truck when more significant improvements are yet to be introduced . Just a thought ! , jf
.............The dumbest thing anyone with a EPDM\Rubber roof can do is park under a tree for a while so the tree sap and bird******can stick to the roof ! And , as already mentioned the rain will eventually clean most of this stuff , off .
.............Other than repairing leaks and repairing caulking , it is best to stay off a rubber roof and just leave it alone ! , jf
..........7.3 IDI turbo charged engines(from Ford) didn't showup until the end of the 1994 model year . Ford did install some early 1994 7.3's , non IDI's with after market turbo's , you can tell the difference because they had a Turbo and still had the Injector pumps ! All IDI's are totally devoid of injector pumps . , jf