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 > Your search for posts made by 'joraz' found 62 matches.

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RE: Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

I'd love to know where someone is getting 72" slides (properly rated) for 30 bucks ! Me too! I probably wasn't clear in my post. He paid $30 for his two 30 inch sliders (62" extended). I was hoping to hear from others that have made their own. Care to share a few more photos of yours? Thanks. jor
joraz 09/01/14 06:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

You can have em if you pay for shipping. Just pm me. Just PM'd you! jor Glenn, I PM'd you also.
joraz 08/31/14 06:17pm Class A Motorhomes
Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

A guy on another group I frequent made a very nice 30" slide out tray using inexpensive ($30 on eBay) heavy duty sliders and 2" aluminum angle. I'd like to do the same but I need a 72" tray. I found one source for the sliders but the cost is almost $300 plus shipping. Anyone made their own? Any sources for what I'm seeking? Thanks. jor
joraz 08/31/14 03:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winegard Antenna Booster

What is broken on the part? Very simple device. You may be able to scavage parts from a new one if there is an actual broken item. Have you used a voltmeter to check it? It was working fine, then no signal. The unit has power to it and nothing has changed. Anyhow, I would just hook up my Jack unit but I left the darn thing at home! Thanks to all. I'll figure something from this input and let you know. Everyone have a great Tuesday! jor
joraz 07/22/14 08:45am Tech Issues
RE: Winegard Antenna Booster

Forget it. Get a power supply made for the Jack. I have one but by using the stock setup, I have been able to leave all the coax as is. For instance, the Winegard unit and all the associated wiring is under the floor of a clothes closet. I can install the Jack power supply as a standalone but would prefer replacing the Winegard unit if it is possible to do so. Thanks. jor
joraz 07/21/14 07:47pm Tech Issues
Winegard Antenna Booster

It looks like my antenna power source (not sure what it's called) has bitten the dust. It's a Winegard SBP-20A. I checked for availability and see that it's obsolete and only available used. Is there a replacement part I can use instead? It's powering a Jack antenna. Thanks. jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/2_zpsd2616950.jpg
joraz 07/21/14 07:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Decal Shadowing

I'll be sure to post when I get this figured out. Thanks. jor
joraz 07/12/14 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

I would try first wiping the blue area with acetone to see if any color comes off on a white rag. Tried the acetone with no color on the rag. Now I'll have to get up the courage to try the 1000 grit. Thanks for the tip. Interesting note: In the early morning before the sun is really out, the blue color disappears. Reminds me of a cement swimming pool. The plaster on the pool is usually a bright white and only appears blue once the water is added. jor
joraz 07/10/14 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

Well, that sounds like a pretty good way to go. I'll give it a try. Still can't figure out how they disappeared yesterday though. Maybe a trick of the eye! Thanks. jor Just tried some Turle Wax Rubbing Compound. No dice.
joraz 07/09/14 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

Have you tried a polishing compound? Kinda. The Maguirs is abrasive and designed to shine up oxidized fiberglass. jor
joraz 07/09/14 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
Decal Shadowing

Just removed the front and rear cap decals from my 95. Now I see a very light blue image of where the decals were. The surrounding gel coat is in great shape - bright, smooth and shiny. I've read on a couple of threads that shadowing is really oxidation of the exposed gel but I don't think that's the case here. I've tried an oxidation remover (Maguir's), alcohol and mineral spirits on the blue with zero results. Now the weirdness: Yesterday late afternoon, the blue disappeared almost completely but miraculously reappeared this morning. Is this just adhesive residue or something else? The photo shows it pretty well. Thanks. jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/shadowing_zps154ff649.jpg
joraz 07/09/14 01:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C Recirc

Where did you learn this??? This question concerned my statement that I thought recirc was supposed to be used with a window cracked and for a limited time. I learned this from a number of statements in owners' manuals of cars I've owned. Anyhow, I understand the comments on the interior volume of the RV and I'll check the functioning of the doors and the shape of the vacuum lines. I was hoping that the cooling in recirc mode might be indicative of a specific problem as I've just spent a ton of money trying to get this thing fixed and it just does not work like it used to. For example, it is hot here (100+), however in similar conditions in the past the A/C has managed to blow cold air. Thanks to all. jor
joraz 07/04/14 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: A/C Recirc

No it's working properly. That's interesting. Thanks. However, before (as in before it broke) it cooled great in the normal position. Also, as I understand it, recirc in a car, for example, is designed to be used only initially with a window cracked, then move to the outside air position. jor
joraz 07/03/14 02:52pm Tech Issues
A/C Recirc

OK, here's the deal. My dash AC (new compressor, expansion valve and flush) blows barely cool in the normal mode. However, when I change the lever to recirc, the temp begins dropping until it gets to the mid 40s. Is this indicative of anything? Thanks. jor
joraz 07/03/14 02:30pm Tech Issues
Deteriorating A/C Hoses

95 Foretravel The outfit that's working on my dash A/C has advised me that they must replace both of my A/C hoses which run the length of the coach (compressor in back, condensor in front). They say that they flushed out the system but continue to get black rubber like residue. They conclude that the old hoses are deteriorating and must be replaced. In addition, they say they need to replace the condensor and evaporator. The system was working OK until a few weeks ago. Anyhow, we're talking about some big bucks here. Does the deteriorating hose theory sound reasonable? I've never heard of A/C hoses going like this (fuel, yes but not A/C). BTW, they've already replaced the compressor (leaking) and the expansion valve and flushed the system. Thanks. jor
joraz 06/17/14 08:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Gravity Water Fill

I had a similar setup and wanted to be able to fill directly. I just drilled a hole near the top of the tank and installed a galvanized fitting to which I attached a hose fitting. I leave my fill hose connected directly to this fitting and have found the tank fills much more quickly than it did through the factory setup. If, for some reason, I want to use the original fill valve, I just unscrew the hose from the tank and attach it to the original fitting. In order to fill the tank from a non pressurized source, I could use (haven't yet) an old 12v SureFlo pump that I have. I attached a section of hose on each end: one that screws into my direct fill fitting or the original fitting and the other that drops into whatever water source is available. Good luck jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/fill_zpsce9ce154.jpg
joraz 06/10/14 12:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cycling A/C Compressor

Thanks, Doug. I got the 43 degree figure with my digital thermometer pointing directly at the dash vents. I would get that figure consistently. The correct pound charge is 5# for sure. Anyhow, when I head down there later today, with your figures in mind, I'll find out what the tech considered too high. BTW, when I dropped it off the condensor fans were working fine. Thanks. jor
joraz 06/04/14 08:44am Tech Issues
RE: Cycling A/C Compressor

OP here. After adding a can with no change I took the rig to a shop. They found a leaking compressor and a bad expansion valve. They replaced the compressor, expansion valve and dryer. They also found contaminants so they flushed the entire system. They just called me to advise that it's done. Anyhow, the service guy advised me: * that it's blowing at about 53 degrees. This is 10 degrees warmer than what I had before it let me down a few weeks back. * that they were only able to fill with 3# because the pressure was getting too high. According to my documentation, this is a 5# system. I don't know what pressures are appropriate. The ambient temp here is about 100 degrees. I'm nervous that this thing will not be fixed right! jor
joraz 06/03/14 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Cycling A/C Compressor

The compressor cycle time is just what you would see from a low charge and the hi pressure switch kicking in and out. Doug I'll add a can tomorrow and see what happens. It is a 134a system. I was afraid of overcharging it. Re the high pressure switch and fuse, I'll check with my rig specific discussion group and get back. Thanks for your help. jor
joraz 05/26/14 06:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Cycling A/C Compressor

Hmmm... My rig has two 30a auto reset circuit breakers behind the dash. These control the A/C fan and A/C evap blower. In the rear it has an A/C relay and a 15a auto reset circuit breaker (just replaced both of these). I don't see any others on the schematic. Now I'm wondering about the compressor clutch. I was back there a few minutes ago noticed that the face of the pulley is covered with a fine black powder. Could that be the clutch material? I don't remember seeing it before. If so, then would the failing clutch cause this symptom? Thanks. jor
joraz 05/26/14 03:54pm Tech Issues
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