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 > Your search for posts made by 'joraz' found 71 matches.

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RE: Chipmonk & Squirrel Damage Prevention Light?

Only thing I have not tried was leaving the light on in the shed and puting a light under the hood of the truck. Has anyone made this work? I'm in Tucson and have fought the packrat battle for many years. Like you, I tried everything I could think of, including all those you mentioned in your post. I've had damage on several vehicles and had to rewire my old 67 F-100 twice. The only thing that has worked for us is light. We surround the rig and cars with LED rope lights which illuminate every night on a timer. I used to raise the hoods on the cars and hang a trouble light every night. Matter of fact, when we first moved into this neighborhood I thought everyone must be always working on their cars as so many hoods were up! As a backup, I am also using the little sonic devices that are supposed to repel rodents. I have a couple on the exterior and a couple inside. Last month I did not have my lights going for a couple of nights. During that time, the little bas***s climbed up on my valve cover (it's a DP) and left their droppings, ran the length of the 40' rig through the cable tunnel and started to set up shop on top of my fuel tank way up front. Man, I went into a full frontal attack. Light it up like Times Square and sound the sonics. They haven't been back. Good luck.
joraz 09/16/14 07:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: Decal Removal and Replacement

Has anyone had a shop, body shop, rv shop, something like that, remove and replace their decals? If so what would an approximate cost be? I haven't talked to anyone yet, but was wondering, $500, $1500, $2500? I just talked to a good shop in Phoenix about removing and replacing the decals on our 40' class A. Their work is first class, however, it ain't cheap. For our rig, it's about four grand. It takes five days to do most class As. One day more for ours as these particular decals take a bit more work. I had removed some decals from another rig and had used a heat gun and razor blades. I got them off but damaged some gel coat in the process. The professional told me to never use a heat gun for that reason, to use the 3M eraser deal instead (that's what they use).
joraz 09/16/14 07:13pm Tech Issues
RE: ARP Refrigerator Fire Safety Device

is there an issue with your fridge that makes you think you may have a problem after nearly 20 years? Runs great. No problems. Just a safety device for me and also, it will be nice to monitor the temps. As I said earlier, I'm often off level so now I'll be able to see how that affects the boiler temps. I'd say, if it's a concern or if you just like gadgets (like I do) install one; otherwise, fuhgedaboutit. jor
joraz 09/12/14 09:43pm Tech Issues
RE: ARP Refrigerator Fire Safety Device

Did you have to remove the refrigerator to install the APR unit? As said, no removal. The unit has a temp sensor. You access the interior of the chimney by removing the access plate and snap the sensor right on the stack. Then you wire the circuit board to a relay and the relay to your control board. When the frig overheats the relay turns it off. Pretty neat. If you have any problems installing, PM me or give the company a call. I think I will do as suggested and get one of those halon devices too. jor
joraz 09/12/14 07:06am Tech Issues
RE: What is Unique To Your Coach?

My last coach had a great feature, an Allison transmission retarder. It's a supplementary braking system almost eliminates use of the service brakes. I've got a Jake now but I do miss that retarder. jor
joraz 09/11/14 07:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ARP Refrigerator Fire Safety Device

The answer really depends on how diligent you are about turning off the refrigerator if out of level for more than a few minutes. This thing with its temp display will likely make me a believer. I've always been pretty cavalier about leveling. Never really worried about it. Probably just been lucky! jor
joraz 09/11/14 06:08pm Tech Issues
RE: ARP Refrigerator Fire Safety Device

Any temperature readings on the boiler yet? Not actual operating temp. I just turned on the frig for a little while to make sure the unit would display temps. I got it up to only 154 degrees. Next trip, I'll check it out. jor
joraz 09/11/14 11:57am Tech Issues
ARP Refrigerator Fire Safety Device

I installed the ARP fire safety device today on my 1995 Dometic absorption frig. It consists of a circuit board and relay that together shut off the frig if the stack temperature exceeds a certain temperature. The installation was pretty straightforward. The company (www.arprv.com) provides excellent phone customer service. I screwed up and fried a diode. Paul, the owner, fixed it for free and even paid the shipping. Can't beat that! Anyhow, the old absorption unit still cools well and now we can sleep a little better knowing it will shut down rather than catch fire. jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/arp_zpsc6581a13.jpg
joraz 09/10/14 07:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

Thanks to all for the ideas, links and great photos. I have one large slideout in one compartment and none in the other. It's a strange setup in that one side could take a 14" wide slider and the other about 35" (entry door on one side and generator fan protrusion on the other). I'll post when I get it all together. Sent you a PM, Cheryl. jor
joraz 09/04/14 05:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

I'd love to know where someone is getting 72" slides (properly rated) for 30 bucks ! Me too! I probably wasn't clear in my post. He paid $30 for his two 30 inch sliders (62" extended). I was hoping to hear from others that have made their own. Care to share a few more photos of yours? Thanks. jor
joraz 09/01/14 06:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

You can have em if you pay for shipping. Just pm me. Just PM'd you! jor Glenn, I PM'd you also.
joraz 08/31/14 06:17pm Class A Motorhomes
Home Made Sliding Cargo Tray

A guy on another group I frequent made a very nice 30" slide out tray using inexpensive ($30 on eBay) heavy duty sliders and 2" aluminum angle. I'd like to do the same but I need a 72" tray. I found one source for the sliders but the cost is almost $300 plus shipping. Anyone made their own? Any sources for what I'm seeking? Thanks. jor
joraz 08/31/14 03:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winegard Antenna Booster

What is broken on the part? Very simple device. You may be able to scavage parts from a new one if there is an actual broken item. Have you used a voltmeter to check it? It was working fine, then no signal. The unit has power to it and nothing has changed. Anyhow, I would just hook up my Jack unit but I left the darn thing at home! Thanks to all. I'll figure something from this input and let you know. Everyone have a great Tuesday! jor
joraz 07/22/14 08:45am Tech Issues
RE: Winegard Antenna Booster

Forget it. Get a power supply made for the Jack. I have one but by using the stock setup, I have been able to leave all the coax as is. For instance, the Winegard unit and all the associated wiring is under the floor of a clothes closet. I can install the Jack power supply as a standalone but would prefer replacing the Winegard unit if it is possible to do so. Thanks. jor
joraz 07/21/14 07:47pm Tech Issues
Winegard Antenna Booster

It looks like my antenna power source (not sure what it's called) has bitten the dust. It's a Winegard SBP-20A. I checked for availability and see that it's obsolete and only available used. Is there a replacement part I can use instead? It's powering a Jack antenna. Thanks. jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/2_zpsd2616950.jpg
joraz 07/21/14 07:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Decal Shadowing

I'll be sure to post when I get this figured out. Thanks. jor
joraz 07/12/14 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

I would try first wiping the blue area with acetone to see if any color comes off on a white rag. Tried the acetone with no color on the rag. Now I'll have to get up the courage to try the 1000 grit. Thanks for the tip. Interesting note: In the early morning before the sun is really out, the blue color disappears. Reminds me of a cement swimming pool. The plaster on the pool is usually a bright white and only appears blue once the water is added. jor
joraz 07/10/14 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

Well, that sounds like a pretty good way to go. I'll give it a try. Still can't figure out how they disappeared yesterday though. Maybe a trick of the eye! Thanks. jor Just tried some Turle Wax Rubbing Compound. No dice.
joraz 07/09/14 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decal Shadowing

Have you tried a polishing compound? Kinda. The Maguirs is abrasive and designed to shine up oxidized fiberglass. jor
joraz 07/09/14 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
Decal Shadowing

Just removed the front and rear cap decals from my 95. Now I see a very light blue image of where the decals were. The surrounding gel coat is in great shape - bright, smooth and shiny. I've read on a couple of threads that shadowing is really oxidation of the exposed gel but I don't think that's the case here. I've tried an oxidation remover (Maguir's), alcohol and mineral spirits on the blue with zero results. Now the weirdness: Yesterday late afternoon, the blue disappeared almost completely but miraculously reappeared this morning. Is this just adhesive residue or something else? The photo shows it pretty well. Thanks. jor http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/joroiga/shadowing_zps154ff649.jpg
joraz 07/09/14 01:54pm Class A Motorhomes
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