Road Closure updates
Dear Rand McNally customers:
As you are likely aware, a bridge collapse in Southern California late Sunday afternoon has forced the closure of Interstate 10 east of the Coachella Valley.
Rand McNally is in the process of releasing emergency construction files for our various navigation and mileage products to assist during the closure. Since I-10 is a major thoroughfare between Phoenix and Los Angeles, traffic is being re-routed in various ways: For example, some truck-legal alternatives are 1) US-95 to Interstate 40, 2) I-8 to CA-111(SR-111) to Route 86, and 3) SR-177 to SR-62.
Here is a link to the official California DOT PDF
To get the construction update on your GPS device, you must connect to the Rand McNally Dock. To update tablets, connect to Wi-Fi. You will see the closure in the directions list on routes that include I-10. Tap the incident to detour, or tap the map to set an avoid. We will keep you apprised of changes as they occur.
The Rand McNally Support Team
CAL TRANS ALERT
Date: Monday, July 20, 2015 District: 8 – Riverside/San Bernardino Contact: Philip Havins or Joy Schneider
Phone: (909) 289-8827 or (909) 383-4631
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE TURN AROUND – D ON’T DROWN!
INTERSTATE 10 CLOSED NEAR DESERT CENTER
RIVERSIDE – The California Department of Transportation (Caltrans) is alerting motorists that Interstate 10 (I-10) closed between Route 86 and the Arizona State Line at approximately 2:30 p.m. today after a severe storm caused a section of the interstate to collapse. I-10 eastbound collapsed and the westbound direction was severely undermined at Tex Wash (Adair Overcrossing), about 44 miles east of Route 86 (Coachella) and 42 miles west of the Arizona State Line.
Caltrans Structural engineers to conduct damage assessment at the location of the collapse along with other surrounding washes and structures along this section of I-10. Once the damage assessments are complete and the repairs are determined, more information will be released along with an estimate as to when the interstate may reopen. An emergency contract will be necessary to make the repairs to the interstate.
Motorists are advised to avoid travel on I-10 until further notice and use other detours routes such as Arizona Route 95 to Interstate 40 (I-40), Interstate 8 (I-8) to State Route 111 (SR 111) to State Route (SR 86) 86 or State Route 177 (SR 177) to State Route 62 (SR
62) to access I-10.
If you plan to travel in desert regions of Riverside or San Bernardino counties, please be prepared for severe storms over the next two days. Carry sturdy shoes, warm clothing, water, a charged cell phone, and ensure that your gas tank is full. If you encounter running water – turn around-don’t drown! Two feet of running water can lift a large vehicle or bus and six inches of running water can sweep a person away.
I-10 is a major goods movement route and carries local destination, domestic trade, as well as some longer haul international cargoes. It is one of the largest arterial roadway systems to play a critical role providing “last mile” connections to regional ports, manufacturing facilities, intermodal terminals and warehouses, and distribution centers. Traffic volumes along I-10 between Coachella and Arizona average about 27,000 vehicles per day.
Follow Caltrans District 8 on Twitter at https://twitter.com/Caltrans8 or go to our website at www.caltrans8.info. View traffic conditions at http://quickmap.dot.ca.gov.
Lets' put it this way....on my first trip may years ago I packed a garage model class C with nearly my entire garage full of tools. Compresor, boxes of evey electrucal terminal made, several types of tape, glues, boxes and boxes of sockets, wrenches, ( both metric and standard ) , severl types of jacks, case of oil, case of transmission fluid, flares, rags, jumper cables, flashlights galore, work lights, rope, electrical cable, cable ties, battery operated drills, battery operated impact wrenches, .......AN ON AND ON AND ON.
Several hundred pounds of tools and emetgency equipment.
Again this was a garage model capable of holding a golf cart that I filled with tools.
I got home afterthree weeks on the road and never used one thing I brought except maybe the flashlight.
Lesson learned. Now If I need something I buy it on the road of call Good Sam.
The Geo Method helps.
I don't really worry about the reading on the sensors. You'll quickly learn when you need to dump your tanks.
Geo method worked for me for 20 plus years. If it's really BAD tank with dried on "gunk" use clear water ONLY but pot in some septic tank enzymes that will "eat" the crud or at least soften it.
A day or two before a trip I load it up with the soap, water softener, pineSol, detergent, etc, and I add a couple of bags of CRUSHED ice, this does the scrubbing.
Drive around, let it sit, flush three times with clean water, then add some water and new toilet chemicals. Works in all tanks.
Here ya go - read, read, and read some more, and then just DO IT, you will learn more your first night out than you might imagine.
Tire monitors are probably one of the best tools anyone in an RV, trailer should own.
I on my duallies before I had a monitor I had TWO inner flats, and I never knew it, till I pulled in for fuel and did a visual inspection of the rug.
I could have been driving a hundred miles or two blocks with those flats, no way of knowing without a monitor.
I found this and it makes sense t me and my experiance.
"I use to take care a a small fleet of cargo vans for a construction company. We had E350 and chevy 3500. All the guys prefered to drive the chevy, but they required more repairs. If you tow or charge them a lot (like we did) they kept destroying their diffs and eating brakes no matter which discs and pads we tried. Plus the other random repairs. Never had any problem with the transmissions. The 3500 have the 4l80e I beleive, which seems tougher.
The Fords didn't give us any problems (except the random stuff) as long as you kept gas in them. But the guys kept complaining that they felt weaker, less comfortable, harder shifting, more truck like.
I guess it depends how much of a working truck you need. For hardcore stuff, I'd go Ford. If it's for a bit of work once in a while, you'd probably be happier with the Chevy."
Ford Vs Chevy
After owning/driving (2) Class C's (2) truck campers, (1) class A, I can honestly say the 2014 E350 class C/B+ drives like RV sports car if there is such a thing.
I think it's more what coach you get and how it's built balanced that defines the handling, not the Chassis alone.
Example: I put the same truck camper on a SRW GMC 3500 and then on a DRW GMC 350 and they handled NIGHT & DAY from one another. Only difference. The weight and height on the SRW was not ideal, whereas on the dually it was perfect.
Same with coach builders. Where do they center the weight, the tanks, the aerodynamics etc. All are factored in on the handling.
Yup, PCs are at the very top of my list. I am really thinking about making a trip to Elkhart this summer and checking out the PC, Nexus, and other factories.
The part I liked about buying in Elkhart, is you can shake hands with the guys that built your rig, and have coffee with the owner before you take a slow tour of the build floor. They have no secrets and seeing the builds in action actually allows you to see " behind the curtain" of your rig.
Another great part is you get a LONG, LONG, LONG introduction to your coach by people that actually have real answers to your questions - not like talking to a sales person. If you want to spend the night, you're welcome to do that. Then they fill up all the tanks, just to ass a cherry on top of their service.
Hi Class C Forum,
However, since I am at the beginning of my RV quest, EVERYTHING is possible and I can change my mind as much as I want. Besides, being too windy, what are your thoughts about my RV review? Are there issues, variables, or other items that I still need to factor into the equation? The only reason that I know what I know is because of the expertise, wisdom, passion, and experience shared by those like you on this forum.
Dean I was in the same boat as you. I went from a Class C, to a truck camper, then another bigger class C, then a Class A, and each had its own set of challenges, and or my needs and desires changes.
I waited a few years before my next purchase as I swear it would be my last.
I selected the Phoenix Cruiser, and I can honestly say it is one of the finest RV's I've been in and or owned.
The greatest thing about Phoenix cruiser, is you buy from the factory and they will bend over backwards to customize your purchase.
Here's a bonus when buying a Phoenix, you don't get "hassled" by repair facilities that sell RV and them putting you at the bottom of the list because you didn't buy XYZ tv from them.
Fro me it was about PRICE, VALUE, ratio. I looked at the Born free, but WOW was that price out of my league.
All the woodwork is done by the Amish, I went with the back kitchen and slide out and it is a perfect combination of road cruiser with everything stowed away and no permanent bed taking up valuable real estate. All fiberglass so no leaks and I can attest to that and being in rain and hurricanes right after my purchase.
All in all I'm one happy camper.
It would have been nice then for both salesguys I dealt with to mention it then .
I told them I have never bought any vehicles out of state.
Instead of saying yes we met your offer price OTD with me repeating in both telephone conversations and emails...
EVERYTHING Out The Door and they assured me they agreed on my offer UNTIL the paper agreement was emailed over for me to print ,sign and fax back...
I will be contacting the owner next week and see if there will be any resolution to what has transpired between his salesman and myself ?
I have every email back and forth as well...
OTD price means the price it takes to get you Out The Door. As far as they are concerned, registration fees are not included in the OTD price. They can't charge you the registration fees since they are not involved with the registration process.
It seems unreasonable to expect a dealer to be required to know what the registration fees are of all 50 states. The dealer gave you what you asked for.
Not ALWAYS correct. Number one EVERYTHING is negotiable. I'm dealing with a dealer now and told him I want the OTD price and he asked "does that include tax reg etc." I said it includes everything so I don't pay a dime afterwards with anyone but you. He understood and quoted accordingly.
Dealing with ANYONE is smart to be clear, understandable and get it in writing. Stop all confusion.
I negotiated on a vehicle years ago and we agreed to terms, they pulled up the new vehicle, I unloaded my stuff from my vehicle and started the transfer into the new vehicle. We went in to sign the final paperwork, and I noticed the price was quite a bit different than what "I understood"
I said " I understood the price to be zyx" finance guy said " oh no the price is "abc" ...confused I said call in the sales guy. Sales guy said " oh no I didn't say that" . I said go get my car and switch all my stuff back - I'M OUTTA HERE.
Second time I went ti purchase a new Jeep for my daughter ( RED of course ). She did her selfie pics to send her friends, etc. I started to sign the paperwork and I asked what the finance rate was. He said at the time it was like 9%. I said WHAT? I can get 3% anywhere on the planet. Sales guy came back in with a yellow legal piece of paper full of scribble and said " LOOK you agreed to the finance rater right here"
At that point I had my daughter leave the room and get me some water. When she returned all the swearing and screaming on my part was finished and we left the dealership with no new RED Jeep. It was a long silent ride home for her and I.
What she learned that day was more valuable than anything college could teach her.