Lets' put it this way....on my first trip may years ago I packed a garage model class C with nearly my entire garage full of tools. Compresor, boxes of evey electrucal terminal made, several types of tape, glues, boxes and boxes of sockets, wrenches, ( both metric and standard ) , severl types of jacks, case of oil, case of transmission fluid, flares, rags, jumper cables, flashlights galore, work lights, rope, electrical cable, cable ties, battery operated drills, battery operated impact wrenches, .......AN ON AND ON AND ON.
Several hundred pounds of tools and emetgency equipment.
Again this was a garage model capable of holding a golf cart that I filled with tools.
I got home afterthree weeks on the road and never used one thing I brought except maybe the flashlight.
Lesson learned. Now If I need something I buy it on the road of call Good Sam.
The Geo Method helps.
I don't really worry about the reading on the sensors. You'll quickly learn when you need to dump your tanks.
Geo method worked for me for 20 plus years. If it's really BAD tank with dried on "gunk" use clear water ONLY but pot in some septic tank enzymes that will "eat" the crud or at least soften it.
A day or two before a trip I load it up with the soap, water softener, pineSol, detergent, etc, and I add a couple of bags of CRUSHED ice, this does the scrubbing.
Drive around, let it sit, flush three times with clean water, then add some water and new toilet chemicals. Works in all tanks.
Here ya go - read, read, and read some more, and then just DO IT, you will learn more your first night out than you might imagine.
Tire monitors are probably one of the best tools anyone in an RV, trailer should own.
I on my duallies before I had a monitor I had TWO inner flats, and I never knew it, till I pulled in for fuel and did a visual inspection of the rug.
I could have been driving a hundred miles or two blocks with those flats, no way of knowing without a monitor.
I found this and it makes sense t me and my experiance.
"I use to take care a a small fleet of cargo vans for a construction company. We had E350 and chevy 3500. All the guys prefered to drive the chevy, but they required more repairs. If you tow or charge them a lot (like we did) they kept destroying their diffs and eating brakes no matter which discs and pads we tried. Plus the other random repairs. Never had any problem with the transmissions. The 3500 have the 4l80e I beleive, which seems tougher.
The Fords didn't give us any problems (except the random stuff) as long as you kept gas in them. But the guys kept complaining that they felt weaker, less comfortable, harder shifting, more truck like.
I guess it depends how much of a working truck you need. For hardcore stuff, I'd go Ford. If it's for a bit of work once in a while, you'd probably be happier with the Chevy."
Ford Vs Chevy
After owning/driving (2) Class C's (2) truck campers, (1) class A, I can honestly say the 2014 E350 class C/B+ drives like RV sports car if there is such a thing.
I think it's more what coach you get and how it's built balanced that defines the handling, not the Chassis alone.
Example: I put the same truck camper on a SRW GMC 3500 and then on a DRW GMC 350 and they handled NIGHT & DAY from one another. Only difference. The weight and height on the SRW was not ideal, whereas on the dually it was perfect.
Same with coach builders. Where do they center the weight, the tanks, the aerodynamics etc. All are factored in on the handling.
Yup, PCs are at the very top of my list. I am really thinking about making a trip to Elkhart this summer and checking out the PC, Nexus, and other factories.
The part I liked about buying in Elkhart, is you can shake hands with the guys that built your rig, and have coffee with the owner before you take a slow tour of the build floor. They have no secrets and seeing the builds in action actually allows you to see " behind the curtain" of your rig.
Another great part is you get a LONG, LONG, LONG introduction to your coach by people that actually have real answers to your questions - not like talking to a sales person. If you want to spend the night, you're welcome to do that. Then they fill up all the tanks, just to ass a cherry on top of their service.
Hi Class C Forum,
However, since I am at the beginning of my RV quest, EVERYTHING is possible and I can change my mind as much as I want. Besides, being too windy, what are your thoughts about my RV review? Are there issues, variables, or other items that I still need to factor into the equation? The only reason that I know what I know is because of the expertise, wisdom, passion, and experience shared by those like you on this forum.
Dean I was in the same boat as you. I went from a Class C, to a truck camper, then another bigger class C, then a Class A, and each had its own set of challenges, and or my needs and desires changes.
I waited a few years before my next purchase as I swear it would be my last.
I selected the Phoenix Cruiser, and I can honestly say it is one of the finest RV's I've been in and or owned.
The greatest thing about Phoenix cruiser, is you buy from the factory and they will bend over backwards to customize your purchase.
Here's a bonus when buying a Phoenix, you don't get "hassled" by repair facilities that sell RV and them putting you at the bottom of the list because you didn't buy XYZ tv from them.
Fro me it was about PRICE, VALUE, ratio. I looked at the Born free, but WOW was that price out of my league.
All the woodwork is done by the Amish, I went with the back kitchen and slide out and it is a perfect combination of road cruiser with everything stowed away and no permanent bed taking up valuable real estate. All fiberglass so no leaks and I can attest to that and being in rain and hurricanes right after my purchase.
All in all I'm one happy camper.
It would have been nice then for both salesguys I dealt with to mention it then .
I told them I have never bought any vehicles out of state.
Instead of saying yes we met your offer price OTD with me repeating in both telephone conversations and emails...
EVERYTHING Out The Door and they assured me they agreed on my offer UNTIL the paper agreement was emailed over for me to print ,sign and fax back...
I will be contacting the owner next week and see if there will be any resolution to what has transpired between his salesman and myself ?
I have every email back and forth as well...
OTD price means the price it takes to get you Out The Door. As far as they are concerned, registration fees are not included in the OTD price. They can't charge you the registration fees since they are not involved with the registration process.
It seems unreasonable to expect a dealer to be required to know what the registration fees are of all 50 states. The dealer gave you what you asked for.
Not ALWAYS correct. Number one EVERYTHING is negotiable. I'm dealing with a dealer now and told him I want the OTD price and he asked "does that include tax reg etc." I said it includes everything so I don't pay a dime afterwards with anyone but you. He understood and quoted accordingly.
Dealing with ANYONE is smart to be clear, understandable and get it in writing. Stop all confusion.
I negotiated on a vehicle years ago and we agreed to terms, they pulled up the new vehicle, I unloaded my stuff from my vehicle and started the transfer into the new vehicle. We went in to sign the final paperwork, and I noticed the price was quite a bit different than what "I understood"
I said " I understood the price to be zyx" finance guy said " oh no the price is "abc" ...confused I said call in the sales guy. Sales guy said " oh no I didn't say that" . I said go get my car and switch all my stuff back - I'M OUTTA HERE.
Second time I went ti purchase a new Jeep for my daughter ( RED of course ). She did her selfie pics to send her friends, etc. I started to sign the paperwork and I asked what the finance rate was. He said at the time it was like 9%. I said WHAT? I can get 3% anywhere on the planet. Sales guy came back in with a yellow legal piece of paper full of scribble and said " LOOK you agreed to the finance rater right here"
At that point I had my daughter leave the room and get me some water. When she returned all the swearing and screaming on my part was finished and we left the dealership with no new RED Jeep. It was a long silent ride home for her and I.
What she learned that day was more valuable than anything college could teach her.
Ok I like 5000 miles, so being I only drive the MH 2000 miles a year, I only need to change it every 2 1/2years, right?
Ya why not. I've already proved that oil in my tractor was just fine after 15 years.....Motor and gear oil last almost indefinite, they do not have an expired time. The issue is the SAE rating and thus oils that sit or are stored normally fail to meet these standards after some years pass.
Used oil, that has gone thru a few or many heating and cooling cycles looses it's properties over time and when sitting will cake up around the edges depending on the air available, but will retain its lubricating properties.
I don't repeat internet here say. I changed the oil in my tractor, I used it, it sat for 15 years, I started it and used it again. It's now been sitting for three years after that.
Amazing that with so many responses NO ONE has indicated oil analysis.
Changing oil every 3K is a waste of good money. Here's a few facts I've experienced.
Why NOT to change oil every 3K
3K oil change myth
I bought a VW and the manual said change every 3K, the European manual of the same car, same engine, same year, same color, same seats, same tires, said to change every 10K miles. Now that if proof right there that the 3K thing " per manufacturer" is a myth. Why does a car sold in Europe get to change at 10K while in the USA it's 3K. Later VW changed that and I think it's 10K now for USA models also.
Now for some fun facts that I personally experience not internet here say. I purchased a lemon from a manufacturer and my case was solid, I knew I would get a new vehicle from them so I vowed NEVER to change the oil on the lemon they sold me. Well, the case wet three years and I drove that vehicle 60K in that three years, and I never changed the fluids. Same original oil filter, obviously I put oil in if it went down, but only 3-4 quarts over that period. She still ran great when I finally turned her back in ( the lemon part had nothing to do with the engine )
I have a Kubota tractor that the last oil change was 15 years ago, and I plough fields with her which is a lot harder than any MH will ever endure.
Lastly there a oil manufacturers that will warranty their oil for 25K.
So my point is, no one on the planet can tell by looking at the oil, or by the miles or hours run on any oil if it's good or not.
If you're skeptical send in an oil sample have it tested, and see how far you can go with the oil you use on that vehicle. You only need to sample it twice. Once at let's say 10K, and if it comes back - good to use, test again at 15K, then you know at least you can go to 15K or back it down to the 10K.
My wife car has 130K miles on it and I've changed the oil 4 times and the car runs as good as the day we bought it, but I do put the best oil they make in it.
It's all about the math. After you figure travel expense, time, inconvenience factor etc. it either works or it doesn't.
Example: If a MY is 10 cheaper across Country and it costs 10K to get it then it's a wash.
Now for caveat. Lets say you live in Ca. and there is a deal in NY and it costs you the same amount to buy in NY as in CA. The advantage would be you buy in NY and get to travel back home and see the Country, and you ONLY have to drive across the Country ONCE - not twice ( back and forth )
Sorta what I did, I live in Ca., I purchased in Indiana, shipped all my camping gear to the hotel in Indiana, bought the RV and drove ONE WAY across the USA. So for me it saved me a week in drive time and many hundreds of dollars in fuel. So it was actually a WIN for me to buy across Country.