RE: Boat rack question
I made a homemade one for my 16' canoe that was very inexpensive and very strong. I am sure it would hold 400lbs. with no issues. It doesn't look as fancy as commercial racks, but it is easy on the wallet. You just have to hook up to the TT to make sure you have given yourself enough clearance.
Here are a few pics, and a link to more.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3379.jpg width=640
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3392.jpg width=640
Of course it gets ratchet straps over the front and rear.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3397.jpg width=640
The rails screwed to the top of the crossmembers fit the gunwales exactly and keep thte canoe from yawing.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3399.jpg width=640
I covered it with enamel paint, and spar eurythane for protection.
LINK TO MORE PICS/INFO
Note: Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum.
RE: 2007 Tundra Tow Vehicle with 34 foot trailer: the numbers.
Yeah, I wondered about that too - very coincidental. But, I didn't have too much time to check on it because my kid has a puppet at home with cold feet... I am going to go look for some socks. :)
RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos
Just thought I would share my homemade canoe rack. I shared it in it's own thread, but I would love to memorialize it here as well! ;)
The placement of the canoe was done carefully to make sure that it would fit safely while towing, without hitting the front panel of the TT. I didn't really want to spend the $$ on a very expensive setup, and this one took only time and about $60 worth of material, but a lot of time.
Here are some pics:
The frame work is all 2x4 and the front to back braces are secured with hex bolts, lock washers, and t-nuts.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3379.jpg
The carpet is to protect the gunwales/wood. The PVC is covering a wooden strip that sits right against the inside of the gunwales keeping the canoe from being able to yaw once strapped.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3392.jpg
Here is the canoe loaded, but without the straps, which go over the front and rear and attach to the tie-downs in the bed of the truck. The PVC on the side rails of the rack are there to slide the canoe up on when loading/unloading.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3397.jpg
Finally here is a close up of what I think is the best design element, the strips that ride inside the gunwales. The wood strip is under the black PVC pipe (you can just see the ends of it in the second picture above). Since the piece is angled to fit precisely, the canoe cannot yaw at all. Also, since the seat brackets hold the gunwales in, the canoe cannot move forward or back, as that would require the gunwales to spread. This eliminates the need for bow/stern tie downs, since (barring the straps failing) the canoe cannot lift up, twist, or move front or back.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3399.jpg
A lot of thought and time went into this, but it works well. The whole thing is coated with exterior enamel and spar eurythane. To disassemble, remove the eight bolts holding on the front to rear supports, and lift the front and back sections out of the core holes in the bed rails of the pickup. Very simple. I searched around for a while and never found any design like this, so maybe this will help someone else like me, who wants to take the canoe along, but doesn't want to pay a bunch for a rack. This rack is extremely strong and could also be used to haul ladders, wood, or anything else too long to fit in the bed.
I have more pics, so if anyone is interested, feel free to contact me privately and I can email them to you, along with more detailed descriptions.
RE: Lost the TT at low speed - got lucky
I second the locking hitch pin for theft reasons... If I leave it in and make a stop without the TT, I never have to worry about someone else walking off with $300 of my stuff! Those hitches have great resale value.
Glad you caught it without too much damage or injury. Reminds me of a time when my dad had work done on our TV, at that time an 87 Suburban. Apparently they had to remove the bolted on hitch to repair something hidden underneath (exhaust maybe... can't recall). Any how, we towed the camper for our next trip and upon arriving/unhooking the hitch almost fell off in my dad's hands. As it turns out (I don't remember how often dad chacked it as I was young) the dealer had failed to tighten two of the four bolts (basically one side) that hold the htich on after the repair. Dad was not pleased with them to say the least.
RE: 2007 Tundra Tow Vehicle with 34 foot trailer: the numbers.
Anyone sufficiently risk averse would do better to stay at home, and never even drive anywhere not to mention taking the huge risk of towing a camper -- whether in their "rated capacity" or not!
The "overloaded" accident story linked above is questionable at best. And there is not a wealth of "actual disaster stories" on line of people towing over weight. I looked before asking the question (under the adage "don't ask a question if you don't already know the answer").
I wonder if this thread would have as much play if it had been written about going 80 MPH but within "rated capacities". I'd guess no one would have had any objection. Especially if the tow vehicle was a 3500 Diesel :B
Well, I gave it a shot. But all you did when I tried to suggest using more caution was to categorize me as a lump of quivering flesh curled up in the fetal position who shouldn't tow a camper. Your lack of ability to insult someone during what is meant to be a reasonable debate is only surpassed by your ability to dismiss facts and examples as real as your OP.
The story I found was a post on a forum, as true as your orignial story was on your post. Either they are both true or they are both false.
I usually enjoy a good debate, but when I realize that my opponent is not willing to concede even some basic points, I realize that my time can be better spent. I defended you slightly in my first post as someone who I didn't feel the need to avoid on the highway. Sometimes I wonder if the whole point is to get people excited as some kind of sport. I was just trying to get you to consider the possibility that by being overweight, you MIGHT open yourself up to legal ramifications if there ever were an accident that was your fault.
Can you at the very least concede that point?
RE: 2007 Tundra Tow Vehicle with 34 foot trailer: the numbers.
Well, that was one case, it happened 5 years ago, he was clearly speeding, and the story as described in the link above is inconsistent. Was he loaded up or unloaded? If he'd been driving an F-350 instead of the F-250, would the accident have been avoided, if he were driving at the same speed and the same load? He was towing a travel trailer toy hauler (not a 5th wheel) which was likely tail-heavy with his quads in it.
Apples and Oranges, anyone?
If we have to go back 5 years to find an even remotely similar story, I'm guessing this is happening all over the place on a weekly basis, and clearly some more punitive legislation needs to be passed. . . NOT.
You asked for a few examples... I did one very quick search and gave you an example based on the amount of time I was willing to dedicate to trying to provide you with some examples you asked for. You assume that he was speeding based on the statement of his reputation, but you don't know for sure. You assume it was tail-heavy, but you don't know for sure. You assume that I am implying that a bigger truck would have prevented the accident, and I am not. Assuming the story is no more fabricated than yours is, dismissing it for any reason as an example of how being overloaded affected his life is illogical.
You asked for examples, and I provided one. I am not claiming that the accident may have been avoided with a differnt TV, but when you are towing over your posted limits, you are LEGALLY opening yourself up for whatever a well-educated attorney wants to throw at you, whether the weights had anything to do with it or not. Like I said in a previous post, I have a low tolerance to risk.
It is just like drunk driving... you may only be .04 (which is under the legal limit in MD) but do you think the attorney for the person you hit/injure/kill isn't going to bring it up in court? AND do you really think the jury wouldn't consider that when deliberating a manslaughter charge?
RE: 2007 Tundra Tow Vehicle with 34 foot trailer: the numbers.
If you want to convince someone they're wrong, maybe show a few cases where people towed over the truck capacity and actually got into trouble.
Well, with only a 2 minute search, this story popped up... I don't think I would need a "few" stories like this to convince me of the legal ramifications you (God forbid) might face if you had an accident. Whether he is right or wrong or how he "feels" about towing his load doesn't matter much now.
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=24262
RE: hills and transmission questions
Same as most everyone said on the little hills...
Bigger hills I will wait until the tranny downshifts into 3rd or 2nd, and then downshift manually to that gear to hold it as long as the grade is the same. Once I reach the crest, I will move back into D.
I have always been under the impression that higher RPMS is better than shifting back and forth... I think the "hunting" as people call it, is hardest on the tranny, heat-wise as well.
RE: W/D bars hitting trailer
I agree about learning to do it yourself (if you are serious and patient). I took me several trip to a flat parking lot, and a few dollars at the scales, but you feel totally confident about the setup once you know the numbers and the setup. The rig handles better and the trips are more fun. Besides, some of these people at the "hitch shops" know less than I do about how to set it up now. I have heard/seen some bad setups out of some of those shops... if you go that route, find a reputable one.
RE: Carlisle Made in the USA Tires
I have been looking for new Marathon radials.... The ones I have now are Made in New Zealand (better than China from what I have heard/read). Is there a good place to order them from to make sure I get them made in USA?
I was looking at getting them from www.tirerack.com but I wanted to make sure they are USA tires.
RE: 2007 Tundra Tow Vehicle with 34 foot trailer: the numbers.
As usual, I find myself in the middle of this argument. I don't think that I need to know what route the OP is taking so I can drive hunderds of miles out of the way to avoid him killing me and my family. I also don't find my manhood threatened becasue i drive a GMC and he has a Toyota. They do indeed seem to have a great marketing campaign going, and as far as I know they are a good strong truck.
I am a big guy, and I know that I can go up ladders that are rated under my body weight without breaking them. I know there is a safety margin played into towing weights, and component numbers.
Having said all that, I just couldn't justify investing (what is to me) a ton of money on a nice truck just to push the limits, and in my mind abuse the individual components beyond the posted weight limits by the manufacturer. To me lighting my money on fire would be better - at least it would keep me warm.
I don't wish the OP anything other than safe travels and a effortless hundred thousand miles, but I can't believe those ratings aren't there for a reason. We all have different tolerances for risk. Mine is pretty low.
RE: Drain Water Heater?
I drain before winter (while winterizing TT) leave the plug out, replace plug and fill a few days prior to the first trip of the season.
RE: RV jack stabilizing struts
I haven't used the specific types you are asking about, but if you aren't using wheel chocks I would recommend that as a start. If you are handy you can build your own like THESE pretty cheaply and easily.
RE: what do yall do?
Hello, and welcome to the forum. While I agree that disconnecting the battery or installing a disconnect switch is a good idea, it seems to be that the battery being drained in 2-3 days isn't due to a CO2 detector. It can't possible draw that much power. Could there be another explanation for the quick drain? It seems that 2-3 days could indicate something else running, or a problem with the battery.... ??
Just a thought.
RE: Advice needed on towing equipment
There is such a thing as overkill. If you are only a weekend camper, I wouldn't think you would need to spend a few grand on the Hensley, but then again, I don't operate in your weight realm. If you are planning to pull all the time, versus a few times per month, that could also determine what you might want to do.
An Equalizer or Reese HP Dual Cam Weight Distribution hitch for a few hundred bucks might work just fine considering the fact that you have a good sized truck pulling that load. There is little doubt, as many state, that the Hensley gives you added stability, but is the bang you will get with your setup, worth the buck you will pay for the hitch.
.... and therein lies the rub!
RE: Homemade canoe rack for towing.
Should be good on that. I hooked up and really thought about the incline/decline issues. With the design of the Trail-Cruiser visible in my sig pic (very light and very sloped front for better wind deflection) it clears the trailer with plenty of room to accomodate turns and dips (including me :) ). Actually the TT sits very low, so if I go up an incline big enough to make the canoe hit the TT, I am going to have bigger problems in the rear of the TT than I will in the front!
RE: Homemade canoe rack for towing.
My stake pocekts won't accept the whole 2x4. It will take the full width (1.5 inches) but I had to notch the 3.5" side down by about an inch to fit snugly. The advantage to that is that the shoulder created by the notch actually rests on the toprail, at the same time the rest of the 2x4 rests on the bottom of the stake pocket, and gives a bit more stability to the rack.
Since I run straps over the canoe and back to the tie-downs in the truck bed, the rack cannot lift out even though the canoe catches the wind. Without the canoe, the rack itself doesn't generate any lift and the weight holds it in place without securing it at all.
Homemade canoe rack for towing.
Just thought I would share my homemade canoe rack.
The placement of the canoe was done carefully to make sure that it would fit safely while towing, without hitting the front panel of the TT. I didn't really want to spend the $$ on a very expensive setup, and this one took only time and about $60 worth of material, but a lot of time.
Here are some pics:
The frame work is all 2x4 and the front to back braces are secured with hex bolts, lock washers, and t-nuts.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3379.jpg
The carpet is to protect the gunwales/wood. The PVC is covering a wooden strip that sits right against the inside of the gunwales keeping the canoe from being able to yaw once strapped.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3392.jpg
Here is the canoe loaded, but without the straps, which go over the front and rear and attach to the tie-downs in the bed of the truck. The PVC on the side rails of the rack are there to slide the canoe up on when loading/unloading.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3397.jpg
Finally here is a close up of what I think is the best design element, the strips that ride inside the gunwales. The wood strip is under the black PVC pipe (you can just see the ends of it in the second picture above). Since the piece is angled to fit precisely, the canoe cannot yaw at all. Also, since the seat brackets hold the gunwales in, the canoe cannot move forward or back, as that would require the gunwales to spread. This eliminates the need for bow/stern tie downs, since (barring the straps failing) the canoe cannot lift up, twist, or move front or back.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/redruffensore/DSCF3399.jpg
A lot of thought and time went into this, but it works well. The whole thing is coated with exterior enamel and spar eurythane. To disassemble, remove the eight bolts holding on the front to rear supports, and lift the front and back sections out of the core holes in the bed rails of the pickup. Very simple. I searched around for a while and never found any design like this, so maybe this will help someone else like me, who wants to take the canoe along, but doesn't want to pay a bunch for a rack. This rack is extremely strong and could also be used to haul ladders, wood, or anything else too long to fit in the bed.
I have more pics, so if anyone is interested, feel free to contact me privately and I can email them to you, along with more detailed descriptions.
