My S4 mini can only pull One amp.
But still on the cheaper USB supplies I have, they cannot maintain 5+ volts when providing 1 amp.
The BlueSeas product does maintain 5.09v.
This source, with a 1' long Anker microUSB cable charges my phone significantly faster than any other USB supply I have, and faster than the source and cable provided with the phone.
This is the product which lets me see USB voltage and amperage.
It counts amp hours too
My cheapo combo volt/Ammeter was the 100 amp version and it was for a project no longer in my possession. It was Not able to read anything below 0.78 amps no matter how much I tried to calibrate it.
I had the Shunt mounted on the battery (-) Stud, and it had been filed flat and polished with 2000 grit sandpaper on all ring terminal mounting surfaces, and with a Dollop of CAig Deoxit shield applied to keep it at maximum conductivity.
It was just not a precise instrument.
For my project's purposes, it was adequate. I told the owner to NOt stop charging until about a half hour after the Amps read 0.0 at 14.4v. It would read 0.0 at 0.78 amps actual, and needed to taper to 0.625 amps before reduction of voltage, but it was close enough, and the 40 initial amps was more than enough to meet the Lifeline gpl-31XT 20% minimum charge rate when drained to 50%, or less.
It was able to read a 100 amp charging source pretty accurately though, compared to my clamp on Ammeter.
Rectangular holes are a PITA
Mex does not want to use a toggle switch.
Good thing they make round rocker switches, so all one needs is a stop collar on a proper diameter drill bit:
I'm done with rectangular holes and switches
I think 4 of these would fit in a 14 inch square opening:
SilverStone Technology Super Slim 180mm Fan with Speed Adjustment Cooling FM182
I have the SS AP182 fan, but it does not enjoy charging voltages at max speed, so I limit it to 11 volts at all times.
Mine just ran at various speeds from march to last week continuously.
A bigger fan FF is likely more efficient than 4 of these, except on Low speed. They claim 0.05amps at slowest speed. My AP182 does in fact draw that amount at slowest speed, and is silent and still moves some 60CFM.
Anyway, not an option likely to be employed, but an option none the less.
OK, thanks. Will start shopping and alloting $$ for replacement.
I saw the same TV advertised under a different brand name, for ~80$ cheaper than I paid ~3 years ago.
I'd buy it again. It would simplify mounting and wiring, and perhaps I'd have two functional remotes.
Kind of amazing how well the remote can get up and hide.
Just recently my TV began flickering.
In the center of the bottom of the screen, there is a "V" of darkness that spreads upwards to the upper corners, darkest at the bottom, lessening as it rises.
In the beginning of this occurrence, when cold, it was most prevalent, and stopped when warmed up. A week later it was on and off as to whether it occurred or not.
Today is is constant no matter the temperature. Last night it was not flickering, but just a dark spot in the same pattern, which I do not mind all that much
My thinking is one of the LED backlighting bulbs is on the fritz, but this is a mere guess and I really don't have a clue.
But I can solder, and i can take things apart, and more importantly get them back together, but have no idea what is wrong or if it is within my skills to determine what is at issue, or if it is solvable with my limited skills and knowledge.
I bought RCA as it was one of the few recognizable brand names of TV's sold in this size which is ideal for my situation. I've gotten at least 3 years of use from it. It really does not own me anything. but it would be nice to not have to replace it.
But this flickering is not tolerable.
Once in deep Baja California, listening to AM radio, I noticed that if I touched my Metal car whip antenna, all the hissing and popping disappeared.
I put my alligator clamp test leads from antenna into the dirt next to the tire and it was clear as a bell and I was able to get another dozen english speaking stations
Later, I discovered the coaxial antenna where it entered the radio was compromised, and replaced it.
Also try turning off all LED lights and checking reception again
Wow, a full gallon.
I doubt they will have much of their capacity left.
Consider why they got so dry. Too high a float voltage in too much heat. Blame the converter/ charging source.
Getting the Specific gravity back upto 1.275 and a resting voltage of 12.7+ might be possible.
While people assume a load test requires a special tool, one basically performs a basic load test each night they camp without hookups.
after they are as charged as you can get them. Use them as hard as you would camping and see if voltage can remain in the 12's or quickly falls to the 11's.
Am not so sure how valid the autoparts store load testers are on Golf cart batteries anyway.
A full attempt at recovery could be a waste of time, but feeding them 10 to 11 amps until voltage reaches 16v or SG 1.275+ is likely the only method that might work.
My friend owns the 100 amp adjustable unit.
I'd marked 14.5v and 13.6v unloaded with a piece of tape before the first use.
After the first use these marks on the tape were no longer valid, they had drifted and I had to remark them unloaded and they have remained put since, but there has not been much of a use for it as the project vehicle is misbehaving.
Definitely get a Clamp on DCamMeter, it is so great a tool for seeing what loads are pulling too.
upto 25 amps meter/ counter
The Above link is the most accurate of the 3 watt meters I have tested. I have one on My 40 amp Meanwell powersupply, and a portable one with 45 amp powerpoles on both ends that I use on individual devices, or on My PySchoumacher charger .
I replaced the 12 awg aluminum leads with 8awg tinned marine cable and use 45 amp Anderson Powerpoles, crimped and soldered, and they only get warm passing 40 amps, where the 12awg aluminum leads got hot enough to burn my fingers.
These are nice because they Display
Some of them display the amount of time they have been hooked up too. There are well over a dozen different versions sold on Amazon.
No they are not 100% accurate, but the meter linked above could read 0.08 amps accurately, whereas my other 2 would NOT.
They all appeared identical internally. Desoldering the 12awg is simple. Soldering 8awg to the internal shunt and circuit board is more challenging. Getting the 8awg to exit the unit cleanly and not stress the internals is also paramount.
I'd not pass 60 amps continuously though one though.
I cannot vouch for the accuracy of every model/version out there, but it was more accurate than the 100 Amp drok Meter I employed on one project.
But the 12awg stock leads make it less useful. I'd not pass more than 25 amps through those continuously, and one still needs to put a voltmeter right on the battery when charging as there will be considerable voltage drop.
The Nice thing is one can always just turn up the voltage higher to account for voltage drop.
I used the cheapowatt's PCB to learn how to desolder with a vaccuum gun, I used its casing to make feet for my Meanwell.
It resides in my spare parts bin, never to pass another electron.
Last night I paralleled my Psychoschumacher and my MEanwell into my AGM-27. 62.4 amps for about 35 minutes before amps began tapering. It was the Meanwell whose amps started tapering first. Schumacher was still going for it with maximum output of 25.4 amps once 14.6v was reached. Once amps tapered to under 40 I disconnected the Schumacher and let the Meanwell finish it off.
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Mex it still is not easy to use these freehand for cutting holes. There can be a lot of wandering, and smoke and noise, and cursing, yes lots of cursing.
Depends on the material of course.
Yeah, I'm keeping to specs mostly.
My Vehicle's engine computer is the wild factor allowing 14.9v, soon to be remedied.
But it has seen extended periods at 14.9v too, even when depleted and taking 30+ amps, and does not appear any worse for wear from it.
When I take 45AH from its claimed 90AH capacity in 7 hours then remove loads, voltage rebounds above 12.2.
A higher absorption voltage would likely extend the time needed between high amp recharges.
Northstar says nothing about EQ voltages on their AGM. This is currently my only battery, for engine and house so NOT having to do 16v EQ's every 14 days, like the screwy31 required, is nice.
This time of year there 200 watts is not really enough on its own to even return my AH counter to zero, it depends on the laptop usage, so the meanwell or alternator are required anyway, and they fulfill that high amp recharge requirement.
This thread was more an observation than a complaint. Bringing an AGM to a dead stop at absorption voltage is just interesting. Was thinking I could bump up voltage to 16v and it might require only 0.0x amps to be held that high too.
I've got a sears clamp on Ammeter whose accuracy is surprising at low numbers.
It accurately measured 0.08amps of an LED bulb that was being run through my friend's Fluke meter leads.
I also had one Wattmeter that was also accurate at low currents. but my other RC wattmeters were not as accurate.
I generally use more than one measuring tool on any suspicious reading or one which needs confirmation.
I also have a shunted battery monitor buts its resolution is only 0.1 amps
I do notice after a bunch of low and slow recharges, that it takes forever for amps to taper to 0.42, much longer than normal.
And when I do plug in the meanwell to hold it at 14.4v long enough to taper to 0.5% of capacity, it still behaves badly, well, not as well as it does after a High amp recharge.
So Sometimes absorption stage lasts 3 hours, sometimes it takes 8 to 10 hours after a bunch of low and slow 50 to 97% recharges.
How is any automatic charger today supposed to account for every battery's characteristics when there is no programmable amperage threshold?
Time for nailing that chicken to the front door I guess.
I think I will stick with nailing chicken to front door.
This not only revives sulfated batteries, but has other benefits too numerous to list here.
The main one being it that it cures male pattern baldness.
I've been using the 0.5% of capacity at 14.46v as an indicator as to when to stop charging my Northstar group 27 AGM.
But I have also let voltage to stay at 14.46 overnight, and the Ammeter reads 0.0 amps at 14.46v in the morning. Obviously some current is required to hold it at 14.46v but my tools cannot read it.
The other night after 4 deep cycles with a low and slow solar only recharge, voltage under load for the AH removed was not impressive, and I decided to let the Meanwell do its 40 amp thing until amps taper to 0.42amps at 14.7v.
When it got there I lowered voltage to 14.0v and let amps taper to 0.0a.
For grins I bumped voltage upto 15.1v, and it only took 0.1amps to get it there, and then it dropped back to 0.0amps quickly. I bumped it upto 15.5v, and the same thing. 0.1 amps tapered to 0.0 amps.
I guess there is little danger of popping the vents at these high voltages when the battery is already brimming full, and needs so little current to be held at these voltages.
The next discharge, the performance( judged by voltage held for AH removed under a certain load) was back. I love a battery which loves high amp recharging, I just wish it was also happy with the 200 watts of low and slow solar taking all day to get to 0.42amps at 14.46v.
But it is so Obviously unhappy with the low and slow recharge treatment. I watch performance drop every night until it gets its high amp recharge.
It really seems the higher the amp are, applied from its most depleted State, the happier this battery is.
I think I am going to add my Schumacher's ~29 amps to my Meanwell's 40 the next time I blast it from 50%. The Schumacher should not drop out for a while. It depends on if it is in its 16.4v masochistic mode or not
While I've seen my AGM accept 0.0X? amps at 14.4v, I've never seen a flooded battery come to a practically dead stop, amperage wise at Vabs, except for a maintenance free flooded battery.
I'd not trust those Ammeters to read low currents. The Combo volt/ammeter I employed in a powerpack would read 0.0 amps when 0.78 amps were still flowing, and I could not calibrate it to read such low currents at all.