Not having a need for such a thing, I have remained ignorant of Such a product, and now am trying to figure out how I could employ one even without an immediate need for one.
A giant hard start capacitor simply sounds impressive. Next time I choose to impress women in a Bar, I am going to portray myself as the mosest bested richest hard start master capacitor purveyor west of the Mississippi.
Well babe, you see it all comes down to Microfarads, for those lesser types, I however, am all about the mega farad.
Anybody got recommendations where I can read up on/ learn about hard start capacitors and where the this technology now resides in early 2017?
Tangentially related, but
Have those participating in this thread, seen this recent PBS NOVA special yet?
Of course, but here we have two extra conversions. It adds some wear and tear to inverter and converter, and the Genny has to make up the minimum 30% losses to conversion.
BUt it works.
My point is it would be great to bypass the converter powering the inverter after it gets going.
Hard start capacitor perhaps?? Outside my comfort zone.
How to get this AC to start on a small generator without overloading it? We now know it, powering a converter, powering an inverter works as the batteries powering inverter become the buffer to handle the start up surge.
How about a way to make it handle the start up surge where no converter or inverter or battery need be used, and possibly eliminate 30 to 40% of conversion inefficiencies?
Less gas consume, less heat generated, less wear and tear on Inverter and converter and possibly battery.
I don't know if this is possible, or worth the effort if it is, but I can't be the only one curious about why it might be possible, or why it is not.
Worthy of discussion?
Would be awesome if one could remove the inverter, converter and battery from the equation once the AC is up and running.
Seems a bunch of fuel would go to fueling inefficiencies of inverter and converter, but it works!
IMO, those handheld inflators are for bicycle tires and inflatable toys, with the occassional topping up of a 32 PSI passenger car tire.
One can also find a 200 PSI rated air compresor for 5$, and it will overheat in 5 minutes, and become a battery depleting noisemaker while your tire loses pressure.
Beware of marketing.
I modified a 12v masterflow MV-50 for 1/4 NPT air hose fittings, and utilized a better locking tire chuck, used some thermal grease between cylinderwall and heatsink, added a 80MM fan, and upgraded the electrical connections in the tailcap, and have gotten 10+ years of use out of it.
But better models exist now.
The obvious culprit to a battery temperature sensor reading incorrectly, is the battery temperature sensor itself or its wiring, or where it connects to the solar controller.
The Dang 'tighten stranded wire under screw' type of wire terminals will Always cause issues at some point either from oxidation or with the screws backing off and not being tight enough.
Such terminals might makes things frinedly for the end user with little skill to hook things up themselves, but they are doomed to cause issues. It is only a matter of time.
It does not matter how much care/torque was used in the crushing of that stranded wire under a screw terminal, it will at some point be too loose and the copper will oxidize and introduce resistance, causing more heating, causing more looseness and accelerated oxidation, until failure of the connection.
Tick tick tick.
My SAE 12v plugs were so problematic I eliminated them nearly completely, in favor of Anderson powerpoles in the 45 amp flavor.
The problems were high resistance developed quickly, leading to heatng and melting when passing 20 amps.
Even at lesser amperages, it was just a matter of time, and connection/ disconnection cycles before intermittent failures became common and would cause a curse fest.
My exterior powerpoles exposed to weather, I sealed the back ends where the wires enter with 'amazing goop' and fill the contact cavities with dielectric grease before mating them. I use some thin stainless wire to lock them closed, but they sell ridiculously overpriced special locks for that purpose
45 amp powerpoles can take 10AWG wire, but are not so easy to crimp properly without their special tool though.
SAE 10 gauge is 6 to 12% thinner than 10 AWG.
Good luck on you 90 degree SAE quest. I would personally pursue other avenues.
Bad news indeed.
Wish I were not lacking for work and had the funds to be able to help in some way.
I am in San Diego, proudly not a Native, but do notice the drivers here, when it rains, are some off the most moronic inattentive nimrods who ever got behind the wheel.
They actually speed up and follow closer when it rains, as if the rain ensures they will get stuck in traffic, and need to get where they are going even faster, before they get stuck in traffic.
Nevermind the fact that nearly every single female has one hand on the wheel and one hand holding their phone, with the latter obviously being more important to them. The males are not much better, especially the young ones.
In the Bitog forums, there is a bunch of members who swear that using TCW-3 2 stroke oil in their automobiles at 2 oz per 10 gallons keeps the fuel injectors and combustion chambers spotless and MPG benefits, and runs smoother too.
I can't say My Butt dyno felt any improvements, or My MPG or power improved any but I went into it skeptically, and came out a skeptic too.
So you had ~230Ah capacity with two new fully charged healthy group 27s, and you need to know if 130 AH capacity is enough.
BUt we have no idea how much AH capacity you require, occassionally.
So nobody can answer your question without a bunch of supposition and guessing.
I did go from 2 group 27s in parallel for house, to one group 31 for house and did well in the cycles per $ category.
Now I have one group 27AGM for Both house loads and engine starting.
But I know how many Amp hours I consume/ have consumed and know how low I can go and still start the engine.
To test, move inverter closer to battery, circuit wise, run 120v extension cord to appliance making inverter squeal.
The higher the voltage the inverter receives, likely makes it more efficient as well, and run cooler, and cooler means lasting longer.
So it should not just be a matter of eliminating the annoyoing low voltage squealing, but unclogging those arteries so the blood can flow.
Thicken the DC copper, and/or shorten it. Lengthen AC copper.
My first thought is how long the Vector would live being fed low voltage. Is anything getting hotter inside of it?
Perhaps another fan.
Such high amperage consumer garage type chargers seeem not to be available anymore, so, While I know you have multiple charging sources....perhaps you do not want to drive them into a grave prematurely.
Your voltage adjustable converters started low and turned up until the generator struggles/ conks out should reveal the limitations.
Not sure about the one Genny's MSW output and the adjustable voltage powermax's compatibility though.
Kind of fun doing side by side comparisons with measurement tools. It would be more fun if the products were purchased with other people's money and failure was of no concern.
By all means, use more, larger slower quieter fans if you have the room to do so.
That 4500 rpm 92Mm fan likely draws -.7 amps
I have a vantec tornaldo 92mm fan at 0.8 amp and 4800 rpm and claims to move 119CFM. Very loud and powerful.
So 4500 rpm lets say 100cfm. If the designers who installed the loud 92MM fan determined 100CFM is required, and there is room for 2 120MM fans.
The Noctua NF-f12 together would move ~106CFM for 0.1amps
BUt they are a pricey fan. They do come with 'noise reduction cables (resistors) to run at 2 lower speeds
Lots of 120MM fans though.
Honestly the Silverstone fans with speed control are just plug and play. YOu could duct tape the potentiometers and their wiring in the general area, dial them to a lower speed in winter, and crank them up in summer when loading the fridge down. You can also relocate them about 3 feet from the fan itself, or further if you want to splice in more wire
The silverstone FM121 is quieter on full speed 2400 rpm, than my 4800 rpm 92Mm fan, and draws half the amperage for nearly the same cfm rating.
For noise and efficiency at 100CFM, 2 noctua nf-f12's would be hard to beat at just 0.1amp.
If battery consumption is a consideration.
Try the silverstone fm 121
120MM and variable speed adjustable via a small potentiometer.
110CFM on high at about 0.4 amps, about 32cfm on low at about 0.09amps.
Dial a speed, dial a noise level.
If you want more of a set it and forget it fan, then try an industrial Noctua.
I have the 1500 rpm version (~53cfm, 0.05 amps)of that fan. It is very quiet and has been on my compressor fridge for 4+ years and works better than the original 72cfm fan.
BIgger fans are generally quieter for the amount of air moved.
High RPM fans are good for higher static pressure ratings, meaning they push air through and around obstacles better.
Noctua fans have high static pressure ratings considering their quietness and generally lower cfm ratings.
My favorite computer fans are from Delta, Noctua, Silverstone and Vantec. I've worn out a few Silverstone fans over the last decade, some have failed due to circuit board corrosion due to a salt air environment.
I will be getting Noctua Industrial fans from here on out and controlling their speed via PWM signal by the fourth wire as I feel they are top dog in static pressure, cfm, noise, and electrical consumption.
The UB121000 specs as to self discharge are not all that impressive,
If the AGM battery is disconnected from all possible loads, then put me in the NO Float category, recharge evey X amount of days.
Or a X minute blast of 14.Xv every X'th day
While I ignore my % full screen and use the AH from full instead, I really do not trust that figure to any high degree, unless I see when it starts counting backwards. appears I can discharge several AH before it starts counting.
Right now it is saying 100% and 0Ah from dull, but is accepting 1.6 amps at 14.7v.
So it is not full by any means, and I will reset it tonight and lower the 'charge efficiency' and hope it is closer tomorrow.
So I am thinking this lazy thing you are reporting is like that only with an AGM.
Perhaps so, and perhaps it only occurs on a TPPL AGM in mid life.
I mean, besides us, who actually would notice these battery 'personalities?'
And question their causes.
This shallow cycle 13.7v slow recharge to full being the cause for my 'lazy' symptoms is just guess at this point.
I am doing the same evening/late afternoon shallow cycles now and then plugging in and doing the 14.7v thing afterward, and it is really not taking very long for amps to taper to 0.4. Less time than expected and I will often look over and see it accepting 0.2a, then dial it back to 13.6v.
It does not seem than when one drains from 100% to 95%, that getting back upto 100 percent takes the same time as if one is recharging from 50%, back upto 100%. The 95% to full range appears much different depending on if the batery is coming back up from 50% or coming back up only from 95%
If I do not get any more lazy symptoms doing the 14.7 thing after shallow discharges, then I will put some more merit in my shallow cycle and only 13.6v = lazy battery theory.
Of course this is pretty close to how a battery would be used/treated in a daily driver, and there are not a rash of failing AGMS, but perhaps they are lazy it just never gets noticed as it really reqires so very little of a battery to start a modern engine.
And Who the EFF ( besides us) would ever notice that the amps the battery can accept are not as high as they once were, or that the time it took amps to ataper to 0.5% of capacity was taking too long?
Also have to remember the Northstar and UPG batteries are kind of at the opposite ends of the AGM spectrum.
The personality quirks I notice might not be applicable to AGMS other than the thin plate pure lead of Odyssey and Northstar
Only other AGM I have any personal experience with is a UB12120, a 12Ah agm from a schumacher jumper pack, which lasted pretty good despite my ignorance of batteries way back when.
AGMs do tend to have higher CCA ratings, which helps for faster engine starting.
But whether it is of any real benefit in your application is debateable.
When my AGM is bursting full, It will read 0.0x amps at 14.7v from any charging source.
So when i start my engine with this battery, when amps taper back to 0.0x at 14.7v, the battery is again bursting full.
How long does this take, after starting my engine, For amps to taper back to 0.0x indicating full after starting the engine?
About 45 seconds.
And that is the first cold start of the day. Subsequent starts take less time and take less from the battery.
I know this is not what we are told or is common internet folklore. that a bunch of short trips keep depleting the battery until failure, But I do not see it happening.
Not with fuel injected gas engines, and not unless there are huge loads on the alternator during those short trips, or perhaps one needs to crank their starter motor for 10+ seconds each time.
Thanks for adding some more data.
I have lowered my total capacity in my monitor to 80AH, from 90, but I really do not much use the % remaining screen, ever on my Blue sky IPN pro remote, I always use the AH from full screen, and sometimes it stays at 0 from full when it will actually 5 to 8Ah from full.
Always a pet peeve of mine with this battery monitor, but this only occurs when I use plug in chargng sources and float it while the battery is still taking 0.2 amps but displaying 100% and 0 from full. it was worse with the screwy 31 as that battery would never taper to zero amps, even at 13.1v.
I tend to rezero my monitor often and try to make it so the solar holds absorption voltage until amps taper to 0.3, as that is when it determines full.
Not perfect monitoring by any means, but miles ahead of just a voltmeter.
This is why I said I started charging at ~60Ah from full as I believe It was down 3AH or so when the monitor started counting the AH from full. The Monitor ticked over from 56 from full to 57 from full right before I applied the Schumachers 25 amps
The 80Ah is a guess as it simply cannot be 90AH anymore with this many deep cycles accumulated. I can only choose to 10Ah increments.
I do not ever recharge via generator or am restricted by generator hours, so 50 to 90 time is not really a concern of mine, but to 100% is, as I do not want it to take 8 hours for amps to taper to 0.45 at absorption voltage.
I am doing the high amp thing on this battery as it seems to wake the thing back up, and I know it does not hurt it. I am also not afraid to dip below 50% when I know I can apply high amperage as soon as I take it as low as it gets.
My later afternoon light discharge cycling, will be met with 14.4 to 14.7 volts until amps taper to less than 0.45 from now on.
I think just plugging in the meanwell set at 13.7ish volts when 5 to 10AH from full was a contributor to my lazy battery symptoms, So now every time, When i plug in, I will force 14.7v until amps taper to 0.45 or less, then drop to 13.6v. Temperature compensated of course.
One thing i noticed when this battery was new, is I could not get it to achieve a full charge resting voltage of 13.0+, as northstar outlines, until I did a ~50% depletion and a high amp recharge on it.