How do you intend to use the megawatt?
Are you charging by generator?
Is recharge time a factor?
Do you intend to use in in concerto with whatever converter came installed in your RV?
Do you know which converter it is?
Will you be removing the batteries in winter and charging them at home?
The powerpoles are a great connector, but whether you even need any removable connector is in doubt.
Alligator clamps are not an Ideal connection, not for anything long term.
The watt meter leads being 12awg and aluminum are hardly ideal.
Off the shelf 6v battery could mean a 6v starter battery for a vehicle made in 1952, or a benchmark trojan t-105 golf cart battery, or anything in between. Which battery brand?
Please Ignore posts from those who seek confrontation, and we can help you get the megawatt set up in a method most beneficial to your uses, but we need more information as to your intentions as to how you wish to employ the power supply.
That is the trouble. We don't know the starting point or the expected destination.
All we know is that the OP is in Dallas with a Megawatt of some rating, a meter of some sort and some jumper cable.
This is a very valid point.
We have no idea why the Megawatt has been chosen or how it is to be employed.
Full time battery charger to replace converter?
top charging only?
Boondocking or pedestal queen?
Neato find SCVJeff.
They have a 100 amp model too.
One can plumb the Megawatt right to the jumper cables cut in half, or anywhere along their length. Shorter is better from a voltage drop perspective.
One could plumb the watt meter inline between jumper cables and megawatt
One could put a connector, like Anderson Power Poles between the wattmeter and jumper cables.
One can do all three.
I rewired my wattmeter with 8awg and use 45 amp powerpoles on the 'LOAD' side of the watt meter.
I have a second 'portable' wattmeter with 45 amp powerpoles on both source and load I employ elsewhere, or here if that tickles my fancy.
I put 45 amp powerpoles on the my old schumacher alligator clamp leads, whose copper wiring I replaced with 8awg.
For the AC cord, if not provided, I cut off a 12awg 3 prong cord from an older unused Power strip.
This is a Meanwell, not a Megawatt, and the extra fans and heatsinks are optional:
Mine can hold 40 amps all day long, and the 12awg aluminum wiring that comes with the wattmeter got too hot for my liking, which is why I soldered 8awg to it instead and added the fans and heatsinks.
45 amp powerpoles are widely employed in my Vehicle. They require some skill to crimp properly to 8awg without their special 40$ crimper, but their 30 amps ones are simple to crimp with any dimple crimper, to 12awg. 10awg perhaps but some destranding might be necessary.
15/30/45 amp powerpoles will all mate with each other.
There is more than one way to skin a cat. This is my way and this cat's sulfation does not stand a chance.
There is voltage drop on the wiring between megawatt and battery terminals, and more so at higher amperage and more so with thinner longer wire.
The wattmeters become inaccurate under 1 amp of current.
If you are looking on how to hook wattmeter to jumper cables, a butt connector like this is simplest and can work OK, but will get hot passing 30 email@example.com:
Everybody's specific requirements in their intended usage differ.
500 ohm pot might not allow you to go as low a voltage as your new telecom Deka specifies.
But getting wires to the circuit board in place of original Pot is hard part.
Substituting 1K ohm pot for 500 ohm pot afterwards is only money and a quick easy dab of solder.
If a cheapo 10 turn pot, hook dmm to it and watch as you spin dial. there could be weird spikes along that 3600 degree range.
Mine developed them.
Caig Deoxit f5 fader lube eliminated them, and freed my friend's guitar amps from crackling.
Original voltage range on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 with original 976ohm pot:
13.23 to 19.23v
Voltage range with 10 turn 1017ohm pot soldered in:
13.12 to 19.23v
More Ohms = lower voltage on both my cheapowatt( may it rest in smoky pieces) and Meanwell.
Pics indicate same value Pot was used on cheapowatt as Megawatt
Not sure I'd add a 500 ohm pot if power supply is ever intended for float voltages
I ran lifelines higher capacity group31 to 12.2v resting and it ate up over 100 amps from an alternator and while amps tapered to high 80's 10 minutes later, battery voltage had only risen to 13.5.
Phil, I think your hope that amp adjustment into a depleted healthy AGM via twiddling the voltage pot is not going to work to your expectations.
Perhaps if the power supply can be twiddled all the way down to depleted battery voltage and only very slowly raised, could you get it to not overload the ex650.
My observations with my Northstar AGM and my Meanwell and my watt meter which records peak amps, indicate there is almost always 25+ amps flowing when the battery is first hooked to the MW, even at only 14AH from full and voltage pot dialed to 13.6v.
Observations trump theory.
The only issue I see with that is having to mix only as much thermal transfer epoxy as one can apply in a under 4 minutes, as it takes a minute of mixing it.
My Meanwell has 3 larger heatsinks on the sides of the casing, but I only did one at a time, mixing a small separate batch for each.
Also since epoxy is exothermic, after mixing it, if you keep it in a thick pile it will get hot enough to start smoking, one needs to spread it thin after mixing thoroughly. The bigger the batch the more possible exothermic reaction and possible wasted epoxy.
And I do not recall the Arctic Silver thermal epoxy being cheap.
But the heatsinks are great. The extremely loud 40mm internal fan of my Meanwell only comes on after 15 minutes at maximum output(40 amps), and turns off at 34 amps in 85F. A 10 amp improvement over no additional heatsinks. At 75F ambient the fan never comes on at all. When new and before I added fans to the case lid, the fan would cycle on and off at 6 amps output.
I should have added them when Westend first sent me a batch, but procrastination is the first step to any process, and I tend to get stuck on that first step.
Since I have a bit of overkill in my middle name, I was considering adding small heatsinks to the threaded 'bars' which pull the transistors tightly to the casing via a screw or 3 through the middle.
I have 45 amp anderson Powerpoles on my Meanwell rsp-500-15.
When I need to feed the battery, I plug in the Meanwell and wait the half second it takes before it clicks and powers up my Wattmeter.
Then I twist my 10 turn potentiometer to dial in ~14.65 volts give or take depending on temperature. I've got 0.1 to 0.2 volts drop on my 8awg to battery I account for too.
Then I mate the 45amp powerpole connectors and watch those 40 amps fly. Battery voltage drags down the Meanwell voltage to the low to mid 13's, depending on the battery state of charge. The watt meter shows total Meanwell output, my battery monitor shows how much of that is going into the battery. The difference is what is required to power loads I have running.
When Amps into my AGM battery taper to 0.4 at 14.4v, I twist pot slowly back down to 13.6v, but if the load on the battery is not great at that time, I unplug the powerpoles, quickly lower voltage to 13.6v, and wait for battery to drop to 13.5v and then reconnect.
If I twist the dial down too fast the overvoltage protection kicks in with a click, then another click when it goes back On, and can do this several times, so I usually unplug the powerpoles when the fridge compressor or laptop are not running and sucking up 3 to 6 amps and helping remove surface voltage.
These power supplies get quite hot when maxed out by a depleted battery.
My Meanwell now has quiet Noctua 80 and 60 mm fans on the lid in addition to the extremely powerful and loud 40MM fan it came with internally.
I also added heatsinks to the casing adjacent to the heat producing transistors which use the casing as a heatsink. Now the loud 40MM fan only comes on after 15 minutes at maximum output at 85f, and it shuts off when amps taper to 34. A 10 amp improvement compared to no external heatsinks.
At 75f ambient temps, the loud internal 40mm never comes on at maximum output.
The Noctua fans are very quiet.
I've probably got thousands of hours on the Meanwell now, holding my battery at my desired float voltage while powering all DC loads.
Further confusion ensues.
My 40 amp Meanwell charger will kick your 50+ amp converter's burro each and every day.
An by 'your' I mean you plug and players who read their charger marketing documentation over and over, loudly, whilst trying to convince themselves their purchase was wise.
Can you even measure the current at absorption voltage, or are blinking green lights all that is needed to invoke your righteous indignation?
I thinK I will just develop a gadget to flash green lights at the precise moment an expectant human hopes to see them. That appears to be the ticket to riches.
Wait a minute, I think politicians have got those bases covered already.
Carry on, we are all doomed to those with faith.
May the Cheapowatt rest in burnt smoky pieces. Some will be reused. Some already have been. The best 23$ I ever spent. Glad that so many learned along with me, and thanks again Mex for bringing up this solution to plug and play inadequacies.
My Meanwell laughs. Only a fully functional Borg could shut it up, and not likely in my intended usage.
Until then. Bwahahahaaa ahhaaaa, and even then My MW still can kick a donkey up a flooded canyon and hear a 'Thank you' atop it.
Egad, I have no idea whether to be insulted or proud.
Thank Egad, I only have to keep a battery happy.
That, I got covered.
When logic applies, I stand a chance, when it does not, neither do I, and nor do I try.
So it goes.
The pd9245 I tested maxed out at 46.2 amps, and this tapered to 39.x amps once the unit heated up about 10 minutes later. It would hold 39 amps until the battery voltage approached 14.4 and then taper.
So it could not hold 45 amps, but 39 is fairly close and it was constant current 39 amps until battery voltage approached 14.4.
When a MSW inverter destroyed the charger on a craftsman 9.2v drill, I hardwired it with some alligator clips and 14 awg wire.
It is a Torquemonster at 12.x volts, but I should have used 10awg. It can pull 35 amps.
Without the battery, it is quite lightweight.
If you've got solar, get a 12v compressor fridge.
I've got a 2 cubic foot Vitrifrigo to which I've added extra insulation and made sure the cooling unit is well ventilated, and it is a rare and hot day when it consumes more than 0.75A per hour.
Propane is for cooking :)
Looks like PD needs better quality resistors. The PD9245 I played with was 14.56v boost, 13.73v normal, and 13.34v when in storage modes
Should be fun cramming everything inside with a zillion wires going everywhere.
The Borg's shell exists, the parts have been accumulated.
I have a neighbor with many such projects in the same stage.
Eventually I get asked to help relocate the components elsewhere as he needs to make room for the next project he will start, and then give up on in favor of the next project that he has already ordered all the parts for.
Eventually he will revisit a forgotten project, and cannot find any of the components.
So when will those pretty LEDs be powered, and that ammeter pegged?
Those with flooded batteries, and faith in their Automatic charging sources to fully charge a battery, well, Prove it can actually fully charge the battery.
Deplete the battery to 50%, and start your multistage charger, and when the charger shuts off or goes to float mode, dip the hydrometer.
I bet if 1.285 is the maximum baseline, most will find 1.270.
Do the same for a week, you'll find 1.260 maximum.
Anybody who monitors voltage during discharge, and starts a discharge at 1.260 is going to notice that voltage drops significantly more than it did when started at 1.285 on day one.
Someone with a Mega watt can hold Absorption voltage until SG maxes out, see that it took 4 hours 17 minutes and 36 seconds. And Next time crank the timer to 4:20.
Someone with AGMs and a Megawatt and an Ammeter can hold absorption voltage until amps needed to hold absorption voltage decrease to 0.5% of capacity. 3 hours and 52 minutes? whohoo spin that dial then next time and go drink a beer.
Someone with a 8 stage bells and whistle charger, has only Faith, and is likely easily reassured by blinking green lights, even though they are dimwitted liars, the green lights that is.
You all are bumbling Nimrods.
My opinions are facts.
If you do not approach an issue the same way I do, you are a knuckle dragging drooler.
There is only one way to accomplish something. My way.
Plain and simple.
My batteries last 12 years and i get 44MPG, uphill and with a headwind.
Gotta love internet forums.