Does interstate even market( notice I don't say manufacture) a marine or Deep cycle battery?
Does the battery in question even have threaded studs, or just Automotive posts.
Dang, even if it does this does not mean the internals are dual purpose and not just the ~15% lighter starting version
I think this is another company riding their brand name recognition, and are now cashing in by having their manufacturers cut the same corners Wally world demands of its suppliers.
The RV dealer sounds as shady as the Fat Cats cutting corners from a desk in the executive office. Baby needs a new diamond.
For most people, batteries are still going strong or 'just fine', until they no longer hold a charge.
And, As long as 'no longer hold a charge' has not yet occurred, most people, have absolutely no idea the condition of their batteries.
My screwy 31 still meets those conditions. I'd never call it just fine, as I know it is not.
Yet is still is meeting my needs. If all I had was three different color lights, perhaps I too would just say going strong, just fine.
When the clock is ticking quite loudly.
I have an AGM, mostly used for engine starting duties, but I can and do cycle it at the turn of a manual switch, or 3.
Is it a good value? Probably not. A marine battery could perform the same task, doing the occasional deep cycle and starting the engine easily too.
My AGM is one of those Thin plate pure Lead ones that require high currents when depleted, and it is obviously less happy with low and slow solar recharges. So I only deep cycle it when I have grid power or will be driving long enough my alternator can quench it to the 80% state of charge level.
The no maintenance is nice, as it is now in a location whose inconvenience contributed to the premature demise of Flooded batteries, when they resided in the same location.
My single group27 AGM rated at 930CCA, can crank my engine with more Gusto than two group 27 marine batteries in parallel could previously.
But this 'wow' factor has been meaningless, and valueless, with my needs.
But I wanted an AGM, and it might be my last.
El Randero once tried to tell me 2 depleted group 31 plTP AGM batteries could not accept more than 75 amps, when a 100 amp model was ordered.
When the real 100 amp 'boondocker' arrived, which was physically larger to boot, surprise! They could accept over 90amps, and could for close to an hour before tapering began.
If I wanted smoke blown up my A$S I'd get a cigar and a garden hose.
Trust if you want to, but believe only after verification.
You want a Powermax, skip Randy, go right to Errin @PM, and tell him what Absorption voltage you want, if not 14.4.
Dont try and ask for a digital timer though.
The MW Se-450-12 Spec sheet claims it shuts down on overload, instead of claiming constant current limiting on overload.
If your battery is depleted enough to max out this unit, it will likely cycle on and off,
Instead of holding a solid 40 amps until Absorption voltage is neared, like my MeanWell rsp-500-15.
The se-450-12 also lista a maximum voltage of 13.5v, but likely goes higher.
My rsp-500-15 claims a maximum voltage of 16.5 but actually goes to 19.23v. Take that sulfation... Bwahahahahuuhahahaaaaa.
I do not think the se-450-15 is a good unit for battery charging applications. Perhaps for being a power source at float voltages, but fast charging, or EQ'ing, the megawatt will outperform it.
A shame the MW RSP-500-15 is on backorder at most sites, but I think it was well worth the 127$ I paid for it with tax and shipping last September
I thought these batteries, according to his battery monitor on his last trip, never dropped below ~25AH from full.
I wonder if his shunt is wired correctly with no grounds going to directly batteries (-) that do not go through the shunt first. This includes the engine battery as it is common
The time and persuasion that these abused batteries need, to get to maximum SG, make my screwy 31 look like an angel in comparison.
The Hella 6054 h4 replacements have a rather severe issue with the High beam being too High when the low beam is adjusted correctly.
We don't know what size the OPs bulbs are, and his complaints of a poor low beam might be resolved simply with a voltage drop test, and a GE NightHawk bulb replacement and properly aiming them.
The GE nighthawks are acknowledge by lighting experts to have a beam patterns much superior to Wagner and Sylvania in the sealed beam formats.
I upgraded from Sylvania bulbs to GEs the same time I added a new relayed 12awg harness, so I can't make a direct comparison, but brightness was at least 30% better and the beam pattern was wider with a less intense hotspot.
Too bright a Hotspot constricts the drivers pupils, reducing the ability to see, as well as drawing the drivers eyes to the hotspot, when perhaps the obstacle required to be seen lies outside the hotspot.
Sylvania recently got called on their false marketing and had to pay out 30 million in fines for their insupportable claims of improved lighting.
The Op should Email Daniel Stern with all the information they have concerning their lighting on their vehicle
Sylvania's cheapest 6054 sealed beam is no upgrade. None of sylvania's sealed beams have a good beam pattern.
Start engine, turn on the headlamps, and put a DMM on the prongs of the bulb.
Compare to voltage at battery terminal for both high and low beam.
Find where the h4 connector grounds to the body/frame/fenderwell, and clean that ground.
Retest voltage drop.
If these batteries are requiring multiple days of voltages in the high 15's to return Sg to respectable levels, and then a few days of minor discharging has them needing this same treatment....
I'd waste no more time or effort on them.
You have become their slave.
Who is working for whom?
6054 is but one size of rectangular sealed beam light, and most are 60/55 watt high/low beam.
I plan on getting the Cibie 200MM which are a direct replacement for the 6054 size factor.
Into the Cibies, any H4 bulb will fit, but h4 bulb quality is all over the map. Daniel stern recommended me a 70/65 watt Osram bulb for the Cibies.
The Cibie's are 80$ each though before tax. Much more affordable than the JW speaker 8900 series though which are apparently the best, at this time, drop in replacement for a 6054.
My bulbs were suffering almost 3 volts of drop on the wiring. Now with a 12awg relayed harness the voltage drop is only 0.3v. Light output is not linear with voltage but exponential. So reducing voltage drop to the bulbs makes huge huge differences in light output on Halogen bulbs, but at the cost of reduced bulb lifespan.
The actual wattages on H4 bulbs are not really representative of their output. As voltage increases, so does their amp draw, and some bulbs are rated at 12v and others at 13.2, so direct comparison is not wise. Check out this h4 bulb comparison:
What part number/ Size factor?
The best incandescent sealed beams are GE NightHawks. Their beam pattern blows away anything made by sylvania or wagner.
I have GE 6054NH in my vehicle that get voltages upto 14.6v, and few vehicles that pull next to me have more light on the road where it does the most good.
If just the bulb itself is replaceable, then it is not a sealed beam headlight.
Do not try and use a LED bulb inside a housing/reflector/lens designed for a filament bulb. On such a light the entire design is around the filament light source, and no HID, No LED can replicate it. So instead of a wide flat beam that is not glaring to oncoming traffic, there is a poor floodlight, that does glare and offend, and the worst part is that they create excessive amounts of 'feel good' foreground lighting, and makes the human believe they can see better, when the excessive foreground light causes the pupils to constrict, letting in less light, and the result is poorer vision, with the Human falsely thinking they can see better.
You can see this all the time with those nimrods who retrofit HID's into incandescent reflectors/housings. These are just glaring floodlights and do a horrid job at allowing the driver to see better, all they do is blind oncoming drivers making everybody less safe.
If they are indeed a sealed beam, then there are some options like Cibie's into which one can put a high quality h4 bulb, and even increase the wattages if the wiring to the bulb is adequate or upgraded too.
JWspeaker has very expensive but very Good LED sealed beam replacements in many sizes/form factors:
Trucklite has less expensive LED replacements with less performance (than JWspeaker), and these are rebranded by both GE and Phillips and sold on Amazon and elsewhere.
Getting higher voltages to the incandescent bulbs really increases their output dramatically, but shortens lifespan. A new relayed harness with fatter wire is quite easy to do and yields impressive results.
Phillips has an 'extreme power' line of replacement bulbs that have a smaller brighter much more precisely positioned filament that also greatly improves forward lighting, legally.
Try E-mailing Daniel Stern to see what recommendations he has for your intended lighting upgrades:
Also lots of good reading on this site:
A Voltmeter, is not a battery monitor.
reading 12.2 volts under a 5 amp load is much different than 12.2 volts rested, not having seen a load or charging source for several hours.
Ciggy plugs are horrible connectors. The ciggy receptacles are usually very underwired, and if there are other loads on this circuit, as there often are, then the voltage reading will be low.
If you want a Voltmeter, then voltage at the battery terminals itself will yield a more accurate reading than anywhere else.
the battery might only take a small amount of amps at 14.6v but pushing it up toward 16V will require more amps, more than your 30 watt panel can deliver.
You don;t want to spend hours and days trying to max out SG.
I once was reluctant to go as high as 16V and slowly crept my way up there. What took 45 minutes at 16V took 4 hours at 15.5v.
The battery will require about 5% of its capacity in amps to reach 16v after a regular 'full' charge.
As far as the alternator charging circuit goes, taking power for house bank from alt(+) instead of engine battery(+) eliminates the too thin OEM alternator charging path, and allows the Voltage regulator to better "see" the depleted house batteries. Hopefully it then allows higher voltages to be held for longer.
My vehicle tends to drop to 13.7 before I'd like, and if I press the disconnect on my ALT/House battery feed circuit breaker, this pretty much insures it reverts to 13.7v very prematurely.
Taking power directly from ALT(+) is usually a shorter circuit path too, so this is one area where RV manufacturers screw their bottom line unknowingly by feeding house battery from engine starting battery instead, at least on some rigs.
I've got some thick copper between alternator(+) and my Ignition Battery switch. I also run a fat ground from frame rail to the ALT(-) stud and there is a fat ground from engine to the same stud on frame and alterantor.
I also have a shunt in between all grounds and battery(-)
A beefy alternator circuit stresses the alternator more, especially with AGM batteries, but my alternator is easy to replace and cheaper than a quality deep cycle 12v battery.
It will be 8 years old sometime this year, and the last 6 years it has had this thick copper conduit to the(130 amp rated) alternator and is worked hard, often.
Hot Idle speed amps are rather pathetic depsite replcing the alternator pulley with a smaller one, but add 300rpm upto 850rpm and it can do 60 amps hot.
I also fabricated a heat shield in between my exhaust manifold and my alternator, as it is about 1.5 inches away. I got a 5 amp increase from this at hot idle.
My alternator sucks in air from the back. I have room to add a 3 inch duct to blow cool air at the back of the alternator, and already have the materials to fabricate the CAI, I just have not done so, yet.
Put a Small voltmeter on your dash with the voltage sense wire running to the house battery (+).
This one is able to be calibrated:
You will be surprised how low their voltage is while underway. Don't trust any stock dash gauges. They dummed all them down on newer vehicles lest the driver see a slightly abnormal reading and freak out.
Vehicle voltage regulators are even more timid than 'smart' chargers. They have no Idea a set of depleted batteries is at the end of a long thin circuit hungry for higher volts. Thicker cabling to house battery and taking power for them directly from alt(+) instead of engine starting battery (+) helps reduce this premature floating.
Testing battery voltage when idling after first starting the engine is nearly useless. A constant reading of voltage while underway, is illuminating.
I wish I could safely read amps into my batteries from the driver's seat. I can do so at a red light looking over my shoulder and revving the engine. Never an impressive number when all that the VR is allowing is 13.7v.
But driving for 5.5 hours, as you have seen, is no indicator the battery is fully charged. Think about the general public who thinks the alternator is a Magical instant battery charger that also yields free energy.
So they do say 14.46absv. I could have swore it was 14.7v. I could not find a date on that manual, I wonder if they changed it.
Perhaps I allowed Odyssey's recommended setpoints influence my thinking.
When I found them at 15.3v taking 75 amps I put my fingers over the vents, and they were not noticeably gassing, and nor were the batteries hot, so it appears they can take it, at least for a short while.
Well, at least I can easily lower voltage on my charging sources.
20 minutes after turning off powermax, I disconnected it from battery, marked 14.7 and 13.6 unloaded, and then reconnected it to batteries and let it go at 13.6v.
0.62amps were tapering as I walked away.
It now appears I got to erase the 14.7 setting and find and mark 14.46v.
At 6:10 into recharge I found 0.97a at 14.71v. Terminated charge.
Ive recently seen my own ns agm accept only 0.2a to hold 14.7v when i left it connected longer than anticipated.
So perhaps more could be shoehorned in.
I had forgotten to mark/set 14.7v unloaded before beginning recharge, and kind of guessed at the desired setting. I did max it out initially to see if more than 94 amps were possible, and after no increase, I backed it off to what I assumed was around 14.8v.
When I went and checked at the ~ 1 hour mark I found the batteries accepting 75 amps at 15.3v, and then lowered voltage to 14.8v at the battery terminals and amps dropped to 61.7, and they tapered pretty quickly from that point.
Very little degree sweep between 14.7 and 15.3v. Dialing in voltage precisely is much more difficult than on my Meanwell with 10 turn voltage pot, as expected
Unloaded max Powermax voltage was 15.56v.
At 5 hours into recharge, they are taking 1.21 amps at 14.71v.
Mex, your Lifeline had how many cycles on it when you got those results?
Is it Lifeline's 64 LB 105 AH with 600 CCA group 31, or their 74Lb 125AH 650CCA group31?
I am curious as to AGM characteristics/ behavior during the break in during the first few cycles.
Care to elaborate how AGM's and Flooded initial breaks in's differ?
Lets assume it is the Higher $$ agms vs 6vGC's, and not those AGM saying 0.3C max or compromised 12v 'deep cycle' floodeds, but elaborate on those if you want.
At 3 hrs into charge cycle, at 14.71v at battery terminal, amps had tapered to 2.86.
The amps appear to be tapering much faster than the previous attempt with the 75 amp powermax.
I wonder how much of this is the 20 amps higher initial blast and how much of it is just the batteries first 2 break in cycles.