The Deka Intimidator and its relabelled brethern are, in my opinion, a good starting battery for a car whose owner can't ever be bothered to check electrolyte levels, and has had terminal corrosion issues in the past they also could not be bothered with.
It makes an OK battery when cycled lightly and fully recharged promptly.
Perhaps the occassional deeper discharge. but the rest of their marketing.......No.
It cannot compare to a Lifeline AGM in total cycles accumulated in the same treatment, Unless of course both are chronically undercharged.
The best battery is not immune to chronic undercharging.
Manufacturer specs as to charging are general guidelines. Strict adherence is not totally necessary.
What is important is to reach as high a state of charge as possible before the next discharge begins, and to not overheat the battery.
Enter the manufacturer recommendations.
If exceedng manufacurer recommendtions were strictly prohibited, then the first pair of flooded golf cart batteries which received more than 32 amps would have exploded. Yet people here regularly charge them at 2x that rate.
If an 30% limited AGM is used as a starting battery, and say it needed a jumpstart, the alternator would easily double this 30% 'maximum' charge rate for a while anyway.
I am not saying that manufacturer recommendations are dismissable, I am saying they can be massaged.
6v AGMS do not enjoy the same advantage as flooded 6v have over their 12v counterparts, as flooded 6vs are true deep cycle, and 12v batteries, with very few exceptions, are not, and not even close.
Got to get the batteries to full before initiating an attemptedf EQ charge.
I don't think a 7 amp charger can get 232Ah of trojan batteries to 16v.
My previous flooded group 31, after a normal full recharge, would require 6.2 amps to be brought to 16volts, and by the tiem specific gravity had maxed out it was accepting 3.8 to 4.2 amps at 16 volts. So I do not see 7 amps of charger being able to bring 100Ah more capacity to 16v, ever.
I thinks the desulfation 'Pulses', are marketing mumbo jumbo to separate consumers from their money and give them the warm and fuzzies.
If pulse desulfation worked, no Charging source would NOt employ it, and battery longevity would easily be extended. Only failure modes would be from plate shedding if it actually worked.
Thanks mike-S for the info.
All the radial style LED's I've bought with the T10 Wedge base, well the 5730s are brighter than the 5050's and consume more or less the same current.
From that wiki chart I saw the 3030 smds numbers as very impressive, and found one LED bulb for a t10 application and it was retina searingly bright, but burnt out all too soon from the lack of heatsinking in constant use and I was refunded my money.
I like to get the brightest possible, then tame them to more tolerable levels, adn amp draws with a PWM controller. Some of the bulbs whine though at 13khz.
When tamed with PWM, one can seemingly achieve 90% the brightness for 50% the current draw. Works for me.
Battery manufacture charge parameter recommendations assume a charger plugged into the grid and 8 to 10 hours to reach full charge, So they choose a rate and absorption voltage giving the best change of allowing the btteries to make it well past the warranty period.
When one is generator recharging, those specs can be acknowledged and then ignored and surpassed, because 100% full is not happening on generator power and a much higher charge rate achieving a higher state of charge before generator shut down, is less damaging to them then a low and slow charge rate which allows the btteries to sag further and further each insufficient recharge in the timespan they are allowed to recharge.
Do not fear the high amp recharge when generator recharging. Ignore teh manufacturer recommendations when they say no more than 13% or 20%. The execeptions might be the lower $$ AGMS which say to limit charge current to 30%, but perhaps not.
I have regularly exceeded flooded battery recommendations 4 and 5 fold and still achieved a respectable amount of cycles.
grandpa's trickle charge everything everytime mentatlity is much more damaging and a high charge rate in regularly deeply cycled batteries.
Size charger to max out generator and don;t worry about exceeding trojans 10 to 13% recommendation, or USbattery's 10% recommendation, and IR gun in hand, UPG AGMs 30% recommendation.
PD now sells the 14.8 volt versions of all their PD9200 series chargers for those whom do not think 14.4v is sufficient.
Ask some Automotive lighting professionals. You will not like what they say regarding your LED intentions, but you don't ask a plumber to fix your computer either, and thats what asking this forum compared to that forum linked above, is doing.
But I done gone fixed my computer by wiggling that thingie in the back yesserie golly gee shucks.
They Sell those type of power supplies at 30 amp ratings too.
My friend has a newis 10 amp version and the Amperage display started reading wacky after a few uses.
He found several poor solder joints and returned it to normal function
My neighbor's kid is very proud of the 100 watt "15000K" HIDs he put in his beater F250. They're not bluish, they're pure purple. He was bragging about how he got them from e-bay for $25 and claimed they snapped right in.
Seething contempt for the ignorance, arrogance, and sheer narcissism of humanity.....rising.
I hope LEOs start enforcing vehicle lighting laws. First on the chopping blocks would be the blue/purple light queens.
Shame that Auto manufacturers stock headlights are so poor, but a bigger shame that drop in HID and LED replacements are available that allow the placebo effect to allow the purchaser of such light toys think they can actually see better, or that whiter light is somehow brighter.
How many people will ever spend money on something, spend time installing it, and not allow their brains to perceive an improvement?
Humans are so poor at determining how well they can see.
Next time yoy are on an empty street, back away from a sewer hole cover until it is just barely visible in your low beams, then stop. Then turn on your fog lights, and magically it disappears.
Putting an LED bulb in most Halogen reflectors yields an extremely bright floodlight which puts 90% of its usable light in areas where it cannot be used, and blinds oncoming drivers in the other lane.
if you want better lights, make sure there is not excessive voltage drop on the headlight circuit, that the lenses are not cloudy, and you use Phillips extreme +100 or +130 bulbs.
LEDs or HIDs installed into halogen reflectors is a Giant ignorant EFF You to everybody on the other side of the road. It has become so prominent that I have installed some high beam assist LED weapons to utilize when I am blinded, so I can return the favor of seared retinas and temporary blindness.
The LEDs in your toyota experience were designed around an LED emitter. It is not possible to replicate a filament in an LED, so and LED emitter in a halogen reflector can never focus properly and the beam will likely be horrid and blinding.
But like randomly choosing another person's eyeglasses, they might still allow you to see, somewhat.
I see in the OP that the Vehicle is a 1990 dodge, essentially the same as my 89 in terms of alternator and voltage regulation.
If the circuit between your alternator/ isolation method, and house battery checks out good, which I do not believe it will based on your reports, Tricking the engine computer and using external voltage regulation is an option I can detail.
The higher rated alternator with the same voltage regulation/isolation method/product will only improve performance in a very narrow field, Like when cold at idle speed.
Not sure what a ford 3g alternator has to do with this discussion.
Much depends on the circuit thickness/distance itself and the isolation method, but cheap and dirty with a old solenoid hooked to engine battery is a recipe for poor house battery charging.
Also the house battery is likely grounded to frame. Frame grounds become problematic and highly resistive all too quickly, and dodge are notorious for ground issues. Stock, there is one 6 awg ground cable from engine battery to engine and one 10awg ground from engine battery to firewall. At 28 years old if this 6awg cable is original it insults each electron it passes.
If house battery is grounded to frame, then all alternator current to house battery has to flow over this 10 AWG ground wire, then down 6awg cable to engine block.
Upgrade grounds, or add a cable between frame and alternator mounting bolt and let those amps flow, instead of gettng bottlenecked by the OEM circuitry.
I did upgrade my original alternator from the lesser rated model when it failed, but the weak point is the voltage regulator and the poor ground path that a frame grounded house battery has to deal with. The 10AWG engine battery to frame ground is forcing the frame grounded house battery... is forcing the marathon runner into breathing through a cocktail straw.
The OEM voltage regulator in the engine computer will seek either 14.9 or 13.7 too. Not much charging happens at 13.7v through old inadequate copper and poor grounds. 14.9v is a bit ridiculous too, and mine would just decide that 14.9 was desirable, when it was not, and 13.7v was the call, when it was not.
There is all sorts of room for improvement of the charging system as there are so many incredibly inadequate areas on this chassis in regards to alternator charging. it might have been fine for the original starting battery that was never depleted and with few additional loads, but is extremely inadequate when more batteries are tacked on to the ned of the Circuit, and that circuit is nearly 30 year sold too.
Beef up your copper and grounds if you want alternator juice to make it to distant house battery.
The VR modification is not Nasa grade engineering, but not for the electrically timid either.
Start with te copper and some experiments with a voltmeter on engine battery and on depleted house battery with engine running, at idle and at higher rpm. Cold and when hot. Expect to find inadequate numbers on depleted house battery.
What year is that dodge?
I can get 106 amps into my battery from my 50/120 chrysler alternator on my 89 B250.
Its about the circuit, and the resistance.
Thick copper, good connections are the key. Diode based isolators torture house batteries especially when vehicle voltage regulator only allows 13.7v.
If that is an 88 to 93 dodge, the voltage regulator is a bit wacky. My 89 chose 13.7 or 14.9v. One or the other with no regards to logic.
I have bypassed the regulator which is in the engine computer. Now I choose the voltage, and generally can achieve absorption voltage very quickly and hold it as long as I deem necessary, whenever I drive for fastest and most complete battery charging possible.
I had a lifeline 125AH gpl 31XT new in my possession for a project for a friend and tested it.
But when a group 31XT can be recharged from 50% DOD to 100% SOC in an hour and forty minutes the whole tally of pluses and minuses comes into play.
50% to 100%......., well 80% to 100% could not be done in 1 hour and 40 minutes, not at 14.46v at 70f.
That was using 0.5% of 125Ah capacity at 14.46v as a determinant when full and 40 amps available current
Great battery, but they ain't gonna fully charge 50% to 100% in under 2 hours. Neither will the TPPL thin plate pure lead AGMs of Northstar or Odyssey, that do have the higher CCA figures and are in the same price league as Lifeline.
Still an Awesome deep cycle AGM battery, but they ain't magic.
There are plenty already using them in Boats.
Incorporating Automatic low voltage disconnects and high voltage disconnects is where the money adds up. The Individual prismatic cells do not really cast all that much.
Some use them without such automatic battery monitoring devices, and simply limit charge voltage and duration manually to keep them outside the 'knees'
What is likely the best thing about them is not needing to reach full charge. Cycling them between 80% and 20% seems to be the best for them.
One needs to unlearn the lead acid mindset of get them full and keep them full. But so many have never learned that mindset, and simply prefer to complain when their lead acid batteries need replacement.
I've contacted him to thank him for the enlightenment over the years.
He indicated he has actually found it to be relief at no longer accessing any forums, tending none, and intends to remain free of such obligations.
Even IF the jumper pack's inverter could handle the surge and start the compressor, which should be overwhelmingly obvious that it cannot, the internal battery could not power it for long, and that battery would then require rather intensive recharging efforts to return to fully charge and be able to do it again.
Which it Will not and Cannot, at least until physics no longer applies and magical marketing claims can accomplish world peace in addition to defying laws of thermodynamics.
The faith you have placed in this jumperpack product is highly misplaced.
The internal battery is Tiny, chinese AGM junk, and the inverter will also likely never meet its claimed ratings, even if the jumper packs alligator clamps are hooked to a larger battery being held at 14.2 volts by the alternator.
While it certainly was not easy to get a straight answer from Mex, and several rereads were usually required to extract the message within, I learned more from him than from anybody else, on any forum.
Number of posters here whose replies have anything useful in them, has just decreased by a significant percentage.
In other forums, That usually causes an exodus of crisper minds, and ignorance then prevails.
The battery inside the BD power unit is likely very similar to this 18Ah AGM battery.
I would be surprised if that battery could even support running an AC compressor fridge for more than an hour through an adequately sized inverter.
And Ciggy plugs and receptacles are an insult to 12vDC electricity. Passing more than 60 watts, it is but a matter of time until failure, and they will waste battery power as heat until that failure.
DOT does not approve aftermarket headlamps, nor does the SAE.
Aftermarket lamps need to meet no requirements to be sold, and most beam patterns compared to OEM, lights are jokes, which nobody will ever acknowledge.
POlishing basically removes the original failed UV protectant and clouding will return even faster afterwards.
One can use wetsanding techniques in steps upto to 3500 grit if they want, starting with 600 or perhaps lower grit, and then apply a UV clearcoat and extend the life of their efforts.
I despise Glare from aftermarket lights, or HID or LED bulbs in halogen housings. I will return the favor with my high beam assists, and we will both see spots before our eyes. Childish I know. So be it.
Sandia labs reports are certainly hard to disqualify. Thanks for the working link Don.
Existing technology combined with a carbon twist, if proved effective in actual use, which could be implemented and not disturb the golden rulers bottom line too much, it is a game changer.
If 100% Lead acid recharges only had to happen every 30 or more cycles and 100% capacity could be restored with an elongated recharge session, then it is certainly a worthy pursuit, as the recycling infrastructure is already present.
But could the golden rulers still profit? Is that not always the limiting factor despite best intentions?