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 > Your search for posts made by 'landyacht318' found 209 matches.

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RE: 11 Fixed Voltage Settings For a 130 Ampere Charger

The meanwell rsp series has user optional voltage sense lines for both + and - and can adjust upto 0.5v iirc. I did not bother hooking mine up, though it would reduce the pot twiddling required when i want max amps for as long as possible and crank it higher than 15v to get them. I'd say battery tempeature compensation is just as if not more important than accounting for voltage drop, especially at high recharge ates where the battery can heat rapidly.
landyacht318 04/17/18 02:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Nightmare Reducing Battery Charging Voltage Corrector

Ok, Say the voltage reaching this soon after engine starting, is 14.8v, and you have it set for 14.4v. What happens. Magic smoke exit left? IT does not say it is a buck/boost converter. Seems like one is counting on the size of the load to cause enough voltage dropon existing undersized wiring, in addition to the Vehicle always choosing a lower voltage than desirable for depleted battery charging so this device can boost it. Which might not be the case
landyacht318 04/17/18 01:11am Tech Issues
RE: Whynter 12v refrigerator vs 3 way refrigerator

The 12v compressor fridges can be made even more efficient with extra insulation and insuring the coolest possible air is pushed/pulled through the condenser. Last time I put my wattgemter inline on my vitrifrigo c51is powercord for 3 days with 75F ambient days and mid 60's at night it consumed 0.62Ah each hour on average as I normally use it. Whats great about compressor fridges with Danfoss/secop compressors is not only is the compressor RPM variable, from 2000 to 3500 rpm, but it can power upto 0.5 amps worth of computer fans(1 amp 5 second surge) that come on with the compressor. Makes it easy to add another fan to assist the internal fan. Evacuating the generated heat reduces duty cycle, and also reduces the compressor temperature and the conpressor contoller temperature, increasing their lifespan and reliability.
landyacht318 04/12/18 01:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Whynter 12v refrigerator vs 3 way refrigerator

Benefits of a 12v compressor fridge over a 3 wat absorption fridge: Can operate off level safely without cumulatively damaging it. Quick cool down. Ability to maintain safe temps in hot ambient temps 2 cubic feet of 12v compressor fridge consumes about 1Ah each hour in 75F ambient. In sunny environemt, can get aay with 60 to 80 solar watts dedicated to the fridge, and buy propane only for cooking. Detrations, the compreesor makes noise. 12v compressor fridges usually come with horrible ciggy plug connectors and these will at some point fail and will likely destroy some food in the process. Price compared to household/residential 'dorm' fridges. If you have lots of solar, you do not need an absorption fridge, nor have to go through the process of refilling propane and relighting fridge, and not knowing when or where you will run out of propane.
landyacht318 04/11/18 11:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging While Towing

I get it now. I can be at 13.4V all day in the truck and it's not going to dent my 4 GC2 US Battery bank. Bulk and absorption charge for these batteries is spec'd at 14.7V to final 97% of capacity and then drops to 13.0 for the float. I'm really sending a trickle back there to batteries down 30-40% hence net zero on the road. I can spin a potentiometer on my Dash and watch both an Ammeter, and a voltmeter whose voltage sense leads are on the battery terminals themselves, respond to me spinning that voltage dial. In general if I have it set for 13.6v, and give it a few minutes of driving, then ask for 14.7v, about 2/3 more amps flow into my battery. This is true whether the battery is at 50% or at 95%. So I choose 14.7v until I know the batteries are full, then 13.6v. Rather than beefing up the wiring, some will power an inverter off enginne battery, powering a 25+ amp charger hooked to trailers house batteries. One can also run thicker copper from alternator and ground through a hefty connector to the trailer batteries, and bypass the 4 or 7 pin cable and get much more voltage at the trailer batts. Hefty But when the vehicle chooses 13.6v and says Good enough, the inverter powering a higher amp 'smart' charger will likely deliver more juice to depleted trailer batteries. There are also DC to DC converters which can step up vehicle voltage, and can speed the charging of distant batteries.
landyacht318 04/10/18 11:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery cut-off switch and Solar ?

Most Solar controllers I have seen the instructions on, say to disconnect the panels from controller before disconnecting controller from battery. I've screwed up a few times and not followed through on this, and it still works, but I assume it is cumulatively damaging to the magic smoke still contained inside the controller.
landyacht318 04/08/18 02:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on controlling Alternator to House battery charging?

X 2 on getting rid of the diode isolator. Your issue will be undercharging, not overcharging, as your voltage regulator is likey allowing only high 13v when it and the alternator are hot. AGMs want to be brough to 14.4 to 14.7ish until amperage tapers to very low numbers. 13.7 will slow amperage the battery accepts by about 2/3, and your diode based isolator knocks off at least 0.5v from whatever the alternator is allowed to make. Get a continuous duty solenoid and trigger it with the ignition, and hope the solar can hold the battery in mid 14's until the AGm is full after you are done driving. SAve the big finnned heatsink from the diode based isolator, it will be good for something somewhere, but not for isolating your house battery. The Mopar voltage regulator can be replaced with one that is adjustable voltage. My 89 dodge is modified as such, I can choose any voltage between 12.8 and 15.3 by twisting a dial on my dashboard nect to my digital voltmeter and digital ammeter. The product below has the voltage dial on its backside: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ADJUSTABLE-HD-EXTERNAL-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-1970-87/142081547121?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D9122873c24854584a53d2f77cbcad7c2%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D142267138079%26itm%3D142081547121&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 This is basically plug and play^^ If you are really worried about overcharging, or overheating your alternator when your battery is depleted and can suck up everything your alternator can make, set it to 13.8v. Have a 3 hour drive and need to get as much juice as possible back into it the depleted battery, set it at 14.7v, and drive 30mph plus for underhood airflow, do not idle parked for more than 5 to 10 minutes as alternator can overheat feeding a depleted AGM over adequate thickness copper.. The VR casing needs to be well grounded to battery (-), but you could mount it backwards to the firewall, or put it on some velcro, and have a grounded wire running to battery negaticve from casing, and easily change voltage with a small screwdriver. Especially if you have a helper to rev engine and yell what voltage it is as you twist dial, and tak note of its position for 14.7 and for 13.8.
landyacht318 04/07/18 11:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Exterior 12 volt outlet

15 and 30 amp powerpoles do not require their special crimping tool, and with a regular dimple crimper and skills, one can get away without the special crimper tool for the 45 amp powerpole contacts, but it is easy to screw it up. The racheting crimper with the anderson Dies is about 35$, and does a very good job on the 45's whose contacts have arms which must be bent over and folded into the wire anbd compressed. I recently bought the tool, as I use these connectors everywhere, and many of my pre special tool 45 amp contacts basically required soldering too, as my Klein dimple crimpers could not really crimp 10AWG within them properly and cleanly. The soldering can also screw up the terminals if it is allowed to get near the 'hook', and can also prevent inserting into the housing. I did buy some other sets of Dies, and they fit within the anderson TC-1 crimper jaws, which helped justify the cost of the tool, but honestly it takes a bit of time to change and align the new set of dies that it would be easier to have another set of crimpers for when time is money. The powerpoles are a much much better electrical connection than the regular 12v powerports, but they are not cheap, come in sets of no less than 5, and the 45 amp contacts, which accept 10AWG and no thicker, pretty much require the special tool. The 30 amp contacts can accept 12 and 14 AWG. There are Anderson powerpole Knocks offs available now. I tried some 45 ADEN Windcanp versions saving 5$ over the Andersons, but they come with a rubber boot. The contacts could be stamped from slightly thinner copper. I have no originals that i can easily get my digital calipers on. I do not think I will bother trying to save that 5$ again. The knockoffs do mate properly with the andersons, both the dovetails and the business ends of the contacts. Also it should be noted that the anderson powerpoles are not sealed from the elements, unless one covers the back of them where the wires enter the plastic housing with Some 'Amazing goop' or similar. Before Anderson powerpoles, I made widespread use of the 12v SAE connectors, but found they would wear out quickly and were good for only 20 amps continuous with the 10AWG, before they wore out. Once they wore out 20 amps continuous would melt the connector housing until it shorted and blew a fuse or something else. Looks like the OP has sorted out what they wanted. The anderson info provided is for others thinking about going this route. They are a much better connection but are not cheap and work best if crimped with their special crimper dies. Also if one uses Andersons in plkace of a Ciggy plug, well the ciggy plug has a fuse inside of it, the Andersons eliminate the fuse, so if the Anderson output is 10AWG is fused at 30 amps, and one plugs some 18AWG powerpoles into it, then the 18AWg is not protected by its own fuse. One of the crimper Dies I bought was for insulated flag terminals, to make my own ATC fuse holder that is of a lower profile than if one used regular 1/4 inch quick connects. https://img3.picload.org/image/daocadda/20180307_135406.jpg width=440
landyacht318 04/07/18 01:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Exterior 12 volt outlet

The ciggy plugs that come on most appliances are quite poor. Seems the blue seas 12v receptacle design has been well copied. I'd still not ask them to pass more than 4 to 5 amps on a continuous basis. Try pulling out the plug after passing 5 amps for a minute. When that spring loaded nipple tip starts getting hot, and it will, think about having a backup ready to install. The blue seas plug is a fairly good design, and one can get 12AWG under the screws inside the plug, but might have to modify( drill out) the tailcap to allow 2 12AWG wires to exit. I've switched to Anderson powerpoles for all 12v connections. not as convenient and no internal fuse, but I can trust them, and not worry about horrendous voltage drop and inevitable failure.
landyacht318 04/07/18 12:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Pan drain and refill on transmission fluid

My dad had an Audi a6 Tried several times to get the dealer and independents to change the ATF fluid. Dealer said no, it was 'lifetime' Independents did not want the hassle associated with doing it on that vehicle. at 155K miles a bad shift flare began. While the vehicle was in otherwise immaculate condition, replacing the TX would have cost 3x the bluebook price of the vehicle. Lifetime indeed, it caused the end of its life. He replaced it with a leased Cadilliac but preferred the Audi
landyacht318 04/07/18 12:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Possible transmission Solenoid failure

King of the Slackers has put off lubing the speedo cable, so far. I found my username and password for Allpar forum and the responses to my issues brought up the possibility that the OD and lockup solenoids, which are on a plate held on with 3 bolts, could have had the 3 bolts loosen up, as others have reported this happening on this specific transmission and the leakage around the solenoids when the ATF is warm, would cause the dropping out of OD. The general consensus is that this is more likely than a fault in the wiring from ECM to solenoids, which means I will likely drain my pan then drop it and see if the bolts are indeed loose. But if I am going this far Perhaps I should just order new solenoids for ~50$ and drop the vlavebody and replace them while the pan is down. Part of me also wants to simply rig up 3 T10 light fixtures and put LEDs into them. One bulb would indicate whether the 12v feed is intermittent, the other two wires are switched grounds for the OD and L/U solenoids. If the bulbs start flashing then I could perhaps avoid an unnecessary pan drop. It also seems that once the ATF is warm enough that the OD is not engaging under 40MPH, that lockup will not occur under 55mph, where it always would occur at 47mph if accellerating slowly. Perhaps L/U does not occur over 55mph once warm either. traffic impeded this portion of the test yesterday. Heres hoping for a nice clean pan when I do drop it. I'd love to find loose bolts. Replacing the solenoids requires dropping the valve body to remove and replace the electrical connector.
landyacht318 04/06/18 11:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Pan drain and refill on transmission fluid

Sounds like the OP's Tranny pan has a drain plug. While one will only get 1/3 of the total capacity out, it does not require removing the transmision pan. I added a drain plug and an external filter and was hoping to exchange some percentage of the ATF on a regular basis. Some would argue this is better than a full exchange on a high mileage TX.
landyacht318 04/06/18 11:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Equilization PS Current Requirement

After a prolonged absorption charge, The 12v flooded screwy31(130AH new) required 6.2 amps to nearly instantly be brought upto 16v, and this would taper to the 4.2amp range just about the time the Specific gravity maxed out. My meanwell rsp-500-15, rated for 500 watts, is capable of over 600. Its internal fan is LOUD. Previous to my acquiring the Meanwell, I had the 23$ Etopxizu 30 amp power supply. It would do 38 amps with voltage cranked up into a deplted battery, but over 36 amps made a noise indicating it was not happy. It clearly lacked overamperage protections. I believe it maxed out at around 15.5v unloaded, but do not recall for sure. There are so many similar looking power cheap power supplies on amazon and Ebay, and many will claim overcurrent and overvoltage protections, but those are just words without meaning unless verified. If I turned the voltage down on the cheapowatt faster than the battery would naturally bleed off voltage, the etopxizu cheapowatt made a hideous whining sound. There is a long thread if one wants to search the terms Etop cheapowatt If I do the same to my Meanwell there is an Audible click and amp output goes to zero until battery voltage falls to where i have set my dial. I think one has to be suspicious of the ventilation and heatsinking of all these power supplies. I cut holes in my lid for 60mm intake and 80MM exhaust fans, and now the extremely loud and powerful 40MM fan only comes on over 32 amps output and when over 65F ambient temp and the highest temp I have seen on a thermocouple epoxied to an internal heatsink is 118f. There are a few Meanwells like the SE-350 which have constant current limiting on overload, and these can be had in the 50$ range. The PS's to avoid are those with rollback or hiccup current limiting on overload.
landyacht318 04/05/18 01:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Possible transmission Solenoid failure

If the solenoid were failing, then it would not just engage and disengage at only 35mph right? Today I was holding 40MPH warm and OD stayed engaged, acted normal. Did not get it upto lock up speeds(47mph+) I checked resitance on the throttle position sensor through outs its range. Very smooth, but I do not know if the resistance range is correct. 1.36K ohms to 4Kohms. Manuals say to check voltage output through range. Backprobing connector proved curse inducing.. DO not want to pierce wire insulation. Also suggested my Speedo cable can be in need of lube, and bouncing. Vehicle speed sensor is inline on Speedo cable. Will relube tomorrow.
landyacht318 04/04/18 09:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Possible transmission Solenoid failure

Allpar.com was one of the first, perhaps the first online forum I joined. Can't remember my username or password though. I think about 10 years back they kept having so many issues with the site I stopped visiting. DO not really remember why. Was in some other Dodge related forums but all it took was one insufferable feminine hygene product and the bag it comes with to get me to remove those bookmarks. The Solenoid wiring has 3 wires. I will assume one is a ground. I am thinking about backprobing the connector at an easy to reach location with some T10 bulb receptacles, that way a steady light bulb will mean the ECM is sending a steady signal, and a flashing light means it is not, and I will not have to drive and hold voltmeter leads at the same time. Replacing the solenoids means dropping the pan and valve body. Never dropped the valve body before, but I do not just want to throw parts at it and pray. Later versions of my transmission have more solenoids and much of the info I find is for them in later model vehicles. So where I am at, is thinking I need to determine if the solenoids are getting a solid or intermittent signal, and go from there. From this forum i was hoping more to understand how solenoids fail, and their behavior when they reach the end of their useful life. I am not going on any roadtrips where overdrive and lockup are required, aI can simply lock it out of overdrive, so I do have some time to deal with this issue. I do fear if it is mechanical in nature that I am grenading the transmission by continuing to drive it though.
landyacht318 04/04/18 12:57pm Tech Issues
Possible transmission Solenoid failure

My TX has only 2 solenoids, one for Overdrive one for the torque converter lock up. It is a chrysler A-500 from 1989, also called the 42-RH. Basically a 904 with a overdrive housing tacked onto it. The 904 is the venerable 727's baby brother. When the TX is cold, it shifts into OD no problem. Once warm, at 35MPH, it will fall out of overdrive, then back in,out,in, out, quickly, until I hit the OD off button. Speed upto 40 MPH and release OD off button, and sometimes it will go into and stay in OD, other times it will not engage until at a higher speed and will not drop out. I checked most of the wiring harness, not finding anything that cried Eureka, but Got Deoxit on all connectors and cleaned up and wires in split loom and routed cleanly. The Solenoids are controlled by the 1989 ( remanufactured) engine computer. The engine computer decides based on engine speed sensor in distributor, the throttle position sensor, the coolant temp sensor and the Manifold absolute pressure sensor. The TPS could have a flat/intermittent spot on it in that 35 to 40MPH range. Will check tomorrow. It could be original and nearly 30 years old. Trying to figure out a methodology to isolating the issue before dropping the pan and valve body and replacing the two solenoids. Perhaps backprobing the one connector with 3 wires leading to the solenoids and seeing if the voltage is intermittent at that speed, or perhaps feeding 12v or maybee just 5V directly to the solenoid at 35 MPH when it is kicking in and out, and seeing if it still occurs. It could be mechanical in nature too, but I have been rather maintenance minded with this TX, with additional cooling capacity and extra filtering, and regular fluid changes with the proper fluid, and would expect much more mileage on this rebuild before any mechanical issues cropped up. Last June I had the pan down and there was only a slight ferrous sludge on the magnets ands the fluid was still pink and smelled sweet. Only racked up perhaps 3500 Miles since. Any Ideas for diagnosis? Or perhaps somebody familiar with chrysler transmissions from this era. 1989 is the first year the A-500/ 42RH was offered, and lasted to 2004, with some changes regarding the electronics and hydraulics.
landyacht318 04/04/18 02:26am Tech Issues
RE: Magnum MS2812 'Absorb Done' settings

Amazing how in the quest for automatic, function is compromised to the degree it is. Unless the magnum has its own amperage measuring device, seeing what the battery is accepting, then end amps can never be programmed correctly as any loads on the battery will throw it off. My manual adjustable voltage charger becomes more and more simple. Watch ammeter, twist dial accordingly. I also do not see any possible use for a charger, which is completely guessing as to state of charge, allowing the option to stop charging at anythig other than what it tinks is 1005 state of charge. gee, no, 92% is just fine, stop charging there. I don't know how you are going to achieve it, but if you want these batteries to get fully charged, hold absorption voltage until amps INTO the 800 AH of batteries, tapers to 4.
landyacht318 04/01/18 12:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on deep cycle setup?

Do I see stranded wire crushed under the bolt on the terminal? If so it is unacceptable, even if just temporary
landyacht318 04/01/18 12:25pm Tech Issues
RE: MegaWatt S-400 as boost charger up in smoke

I used a 23$ budget Megawatt coined the cheapowatt. Rated for 30 amps it would output close to 38 amps. Over 36 amps it made this sound which said things were not right. So I had to limit amperage to 36 or below by starting lower on the voltage scale and twiddling the potentiometer upward often. to keep it in the 30 to 26 amp range. i had rigged up a better potentiometer, i had increased heat dissipation with a better fan and some better mating of heatsink with casing. Eventually i got tired of the pot twiddling, and i set it to 14.8v unloaded, hooked it to a depleted battery and away it went, making that 'not right' noise. It lasted 17 minutes. I then bought the Meanwell RSP-500-15, and have been using that since september 2014 as a 40 amp charger converter floater equalizer, everything. I have increased its ventiation and heatsinking, and it has thousands of hours on it. Its voltage range is 13.12 to 19.23v. No personal experience with the Megawatt. I suspect the fans re culprits in the failure. The internal 60MM fans have a lot of restriction behind and in front of the fan. I had moved the fan to the exterior of the casing to reduce restriction. My MEanwell has a 40 and a 60MM fan on the lid, 40MM blowing in 60MM sucking out. The MW comes with a very loud powerful 40MM fan, but my ther fans keep it off below 32 amps of output. Send your 'boat anchor' to Mexwanderer.
landyacht318 03/31/18 10:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Can I use 4awg wire for my inverter

I would not buy auto parts store battery cables. They are SAE gauge not AWG. SAE is 6 to 12% thinner. Also the ring terminals preinstalled on most AP store cables are steel. Bring a magnet.
landyacht318 03/28/18 08:44pm Tech Issues
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