Drum roll please......
It works. No check engine light. Whohoo!!!!!
Voltage range I checked from 13.2 to 14.9 with a full charged battery.
Field current 1.2 to 1.8 amps
The resistor got hot, 214F on the hottest spot
Now to make it permanent an clean since the test was a success.
PD should seek and hold 14.4v. If trimetric is reading only 14.1c, well that 0.3v unaccounted for, somewhere, or indicating some inaccuracy somewhere.
Many people wire their trimetric's Shunt incorrectly. No wire can go directly to battery(-) terminal that does not go to the shunt. The only wires on the battery(-) should be the one from the battery side of the Shunt.
If the house battery is directly grounded to engine battery, nothing can be directly grounded to engine battery either as current can than also bypass the shunt.
Pretty much impossible to reach full charge in less than 5 hours with Lead acid, and 5 to 7 is more likely when the charging source maintains a 14v+ absorption voltage for the last 4 hours
The molded connector field terminal tabs are more than 1/4 inch thick, the next size up quick connects are loose and wobble. Even if squeezed with pliers I can pull them off all too easily.
I want to be able to return the OEM VR to duty easily if I have to, So ring terminals it will be.
I saved some threaded brass contact and screw from a Switch I wore out. It has a nice wide flathead brass screw and will hold ring terminal to Connector tangs nicely.
I will use some wire insulation over the field terminal studs preventing accidental contact.
Guess I should get to it rather than type on this **** laptop
Yeah, I have some fog light sized LED's with 6 LEDs each. Barely over 12 watts consumption, yet as bright as a 65 watt sealed beam on high beam getting 14.5v.
People that blind me with aftermarket hId/led bulbs in halogen housings, have the favor returned.
The LED lightbar in this thread will sear retinas. Lawyers will love the new workload they get after chasing ambulances when such a lightbar used onroad induces the moth effect.
So this behavior is new? YOu've done this with depleted batteries before and it seeked 14.8v and held it for as long as you ran the generator, and now it does not?
My friend has the 100 amp adjustable model and the Pot drifted a bit after the first use. I had marked 14.7 and 13.6 on the dial unloaded, but after the first use these marks were out of whack when unloaded.
But the new markings have not swayed.
Was able to just get molded connector field terminal tabs out of the way and reattach connector. will attach trick the ecm resistor to these tabs with ring terminals for today's test.
Have to go through woodalls portal to post.
Do you know the amp flow, or just the voltage.
It takes a while for a charging source to get a depleted battery to absorption voltage.
It takes no time for a powerful charging source to get 90% charged battery upto absorption voltage
Yep, it depends on intended usage whether replacing the pot with a 10 turn one is worth it.
Right now i have my set at 13.93v. Battery monitor indicates 0.0x amps are flowing into the fully charged AGm battery, but the watt meter I put on the MW output indicates it is making 6.71 amps to power my TV and this laptop and fan and lights. I could run my laptop AC adapter but don't bother.
Next time I discharge it, I can plug it into the grid, put voltage to ~14.46 to 14.9v and then hook together the 45 amp anderson powerpoles and 40 amps will flow from it. When amps at 14.4x volts taper to 0.4 or less I will lower voltage to 13.8v or so, depends on temperature.
If I will be away when 0.42a at 14.46v is reached, I just set voltage to 13.6 to 13.8v and forget about it.
I'm not using a generator, I've got time whenever I plug in. Any automatic plug and play would be good enough for me, but I prefer more control. There are times when times that 120vAC is limited and a premature drop to 13.8v would enrage me.
I use the full voltage range of my Meanwell rsp-500-15( well, below 16v anyway), and with the original trim pot this range was from 13.23 to 19.23v.
With the original 1K ohm pot in both the cheapowatt and the MeanWell, 0 ohm resistance on the pot, the PS goes to its maximum voltage, maximum resistance and the PS goes to its lowest voltage.
The Cheapowatt and Meanwell came with a 1000 ohm pot. I measured the original trim MW pot upto 970 ohms( going by memory here)
The 10 turn pot measured 995ohm( again memory)
With the new pot wired in with its ~20 more ohms of resistance, minimum voltage dropped to 13.12v, down from 13.23v.
So I assume if I were to use a 500 ohm pot on my Meanwell, I would lose the lower ranges of voltages, which would not be desirable for me as I use mine to float my battery once full.
I am not sure the original voltage range on the Megawatt, I thought 15.5v was their maximum, and Niner has no use for the Megawatt to float his battery at a lower voltage, and perhaps never noticed that the voltage does not go as low as it did with the original 1000 ohm potentiometer. And the markings shown in photos on the pot of the MW indicate it is a 1K ohm potentiometer.
The 10 turn pot I used on my Cheapowatt and then the Meanwell is this type:
It is not very high quality as it developed uneven spots Which some DeOxit F5 fader lube resolved. But the spots came back and a second application resolved them again, but once again they are slowly returning, but it is easy enough to loosen the 3 screws pull it apart enough to get the red squirter hose in there and reapply.
These uneven spots cause my Meanwell to click on and off when adjusting voltage.
I recently got a 2K ohm pot for another project, that has the same appearance of the Pot niner shows. It is heavier than I expected. The turns counter feature is awesome and it has a brake on it too. I checked it through its 3600 degree range with my DMM and it was smooth and steady the whole way. I'd have to recommend this type over the type in the link above though I know not how it will last after a few dozen cycles. I ordered mine through Ebay for under 5$. It took 9 weeks to arrive, I was about to give up on its arrival.
If one has the confidence and skills to solder in their own wires for an external 3600 degree potentiometer, get some thermal grease to reapply between the transistors and the casing.
a 500 ohm range of adjustment over 10 turns would certainly allow more precision when adjusting voltage, but it is quite easy to dial it into 0.01 a volt with a 1K ohm potentiometer at half the sensitivity.
I would NOT use a 2K ohm pot to replace a 1K ohm pot. I imagine the magic blue smoke could escape.
The Powermax adjustable voltage model's potentiometer's range is less than 360 degrees. It is very touchy to dial it in to 0.01 of a volt, practically impossible, but someone seeking 40+ amps in a manual Adjustable voltage premade package, should consider one of these instead of trying to convert a MW power supply to an external potentiometer.
MaineSail used the first version of the HF crimper, whose black colored dies were adequate only upto 4awg ring terminals, unless one considers 'ears' adequate.
Later versions have upgraded die sizes 'silver colored' to better reflect reality.
I have one of the former and have used a grinder and a file to get a nice looking crimp on 2awg thick walled ring terminals, and will grind out other sizes as the need arises. Wish I had a template to scratch on the die as a guide, rather than a file and guess and hope procedure I used for the 2 and 6awg dies I did file out.
Better too big than too small. Some folded aluminum foil works pretty well at getting full compression when they are too big, and remains stuck to the die.
I plan to go with both
I have an Automatic schumacher that I've grown to trust to eventually fully charge, and not overcharge, on the AGM setting, when there is no loads on the battery. BUt throw a cycling load such as a compressor fridge on it and forget it.
But the Meanwell kicks its butt in sheer ability and versatility, especially on an AGM battery that lists a 13.6 float voltage.
I thought about all 3 of the big converter makers, went for the Meanwell, and have zero regrets.
I'm not going to reread the whole thread to check, but Have you tried starting the boondocker with actually depleted batteries when battery voltage is in the 12.2 range?
If the boondocker sees 12.6 or .8 or higher, it will not attempt to go into bulk where it seeks 14.4 or 14.6v, and never will.
If the wiring or its connections are compromised, the voltage it sees will quickly rise, hit that threshold of 14.4v or 14.6 and revert to its lesser voltage.
About the Meanwell or Megawatt, the part numbers Niner gave you are for the Megawatt:
I employ a Meanwell rsp-500-15 which is rated for 500 watts but will do 600 watts, and it will hold 40 amp output until battery voltage approaches closely to the 14.XX voltage I have chosen.
They have a Meanwell rsp-750-15 which I assume would be good for 60 amps. Meanwell has a large lineup of powersupplies, but for battery charging one needs one which lists constant current limiting on overload, as a depleted battery is an overload. Powersupplies without this feature will either quit until the overload is removed, or they will roll back current, slowing charging.
Running it at max output it gets quite hot, and I added more ventilation and heatsinking. It has a very powerful and loud 40MM computer fan inside which cycled on and off at just 6 amps output. Now output must be well over 30 amps for this fan to automatically come on.
I also added a 10 turn potentiometer, replacing the tiny one on the circuit board which required a jewelers screwdriver and a fine tough to adjust voltage. The Tiny potentiometers are rated for only 100 cycles through their range,IIrc and I would have quickly wore one out.
As I enjoy changing voltage and observing different amp flow at different states of charge. It has been a good learning tool.
It is not a tool for everyone as it is not automatic, and is not really intended for this usage.
For the Automatic converter, I liked the PD 9245 I used in a project that utilized a Lifeline gpl-31xt battery AGM and it was able to exceed 45 amps, but this tapered to the high 30's and held there until the battery was in the 80% range. Others report that they do not do well on a generator and taper lower.
The ability of the PD92xx to manually force an intended voltage puts it above the powermax and the Iota, in my opinion, and I hear they can be ordered with a 14.8v absorption voltage instead of the standard 14.4v.
I do not know about the other series of PD offerings which have the powercenter or are intended as drop in replacements.
The wiring thickness is important to get the converter to go into bulk and hold it. Voltage drop is the enemy of all battery charging, especially when an Automatic 3 or 4 stage charging source source is involved.
I use ~ 3' of 8 awg then 3' of 4awg from on my 40 amp meanwell to my AGM-27, and just twist the potentiometer a little higher when I want maximum amp flow for as long as possible, until the battery terminals reach the intended voltage. The output voltage at the converter's/powersupply terminals and the voltage at the battery terminals is significantly different passing 40 amps into a depleted battery.
Sorry your thread has devolved into the Automatic vs manual approach and what is better. I find this site much more palatable if I just Ignore RJ's posts. I need to avoid such personalities as my contempt for humanity is already so high.
I actually learn things from Mex when I can decipher what it is he is trying to relate in his particular/peculiar way.
On my 800 watt coleman msw inverter with a loud 40mm fan, I ran wires to a rocker switch I could reach from bed as it had upto a 0.8 amp no load draw and I did not want to get out of bed to turn it off.
Never really needed 800 watts so that rocker switch is not connected to anything anymore, and got a 400 watt Wagan EL2601 PSW inverter that has a 0.26 parasitic no load draw. I like the small size of the Wagan, and the silent fan at under 150 watts.
It was able to sustain a 435 watt load in summertime. It's $116 on amazon right now but it varies upto 170$. I've not tested its waveform.
Never heard of Kisea until I read the above post, but had not heard of Wagan before purchase either
Takes a while before most solar systems could get a battery upto absorption voltage, but solar contribution can certainly cause an automatic charging source to decide to not go into bulk.
Depends on the time of day when one fires up the converter/generator and the sun upto that time. I find that 3 hours of sunlight then starting my power supply at 14.8 will not allow it to max out at 40 amps, but it depends on the depletion level.
When I use my Automatic Schumacher and Meanwell in parallel I have to bump the Meanwell upto 15.3 volts in bulk stage for it to max out at 40 amps along with the Schumachers 25 amps. And i certainly have to start the schumacher first as anything over 12.8volts and it just goes into float mode.
But Start the schumacher first then meanwell bumped upto 15.3v, and it's ~65 amps into a depleted 90AH AGM battery, depending on DC load at the time.
Yeah, as if the generator has an automatic cut off when the converter's amperage crosses a certain threshhold?
A manual charging source is not something that needs to be stressed out over or baby sat. It is not as if another hour longer than required at 14.8v is going to make the battery explode, or die instantly.
I'd fear the ' it dropped to float so it must be fully charged' mentality far more. Premature efloatulation has killed way more deep cycle batteries than a manual charger holding absorption voltage too long.
Wire soldered to trim pot legs, twisted tightly, sheathed, run through a ferrite ring, and 'amazing goop'ed to flats.
I could swing VR by Pot leads like a weapon
The trojan J185 is taller and has more capacity than the t-1275 and would 'almost' fit the space listed. It is 14.71" wide.
Dooh! Put a bottle jack on its side and make the battery compartment 0.21" wider :)
The Lifeline GPL-30HT is about the same size and capacity as a T-1275. Note Lifeline when deeply cycled recommends a 20% charge rate, 20amps per 100Ah capacity, so You would need to be able to apply 30+ amps to it when cycled to 50%.
Trojan 'recommends' 10-13% for their flooded batteries
Low charge currents on a deeply cycled AGM will tickle them to death, even 200 watts of solar would be considered tickling this battery
Hammer crimps are a crime against copper wire and ring terminals.
Leverage crimpers can be found in the 22$ range, but I am not sure the quality of them or their crimps, but they have to be better than a hammer dimple crimper, no matter the size of the hammer.
Other projects took precedence this week so I only pulled out the transpo f540hd today.
I practiced the wood Dowel holding the ring terminal trick on a set of clamps from a old retired small jumper pack that came with a 12AH Asian AGM battery, now long recycled. Only one of the jaws was live so I ran 10awg to the other Jaw of the same clamp:
This is 10 awg in a 10-12 ring terminal, crimped in the hydraulic crimper. The die size was not perfect, note the thin ears:
I angled the ring terminal and wire up towards the the other output wires, which are just temporary in this photo. I did heat shrink the terminal for the idiot light with blue, and I half covered the bases of the other terminals with yellow heat shrink as I am just going to run individual insulated quick connects to these terminals rather than get the red ford Connector. I am going to mount this inside the Van on the firewall. Got a great spot for it that will keep the run to the alternator under 3.5 feet long, and well protected.
It soldered pretty well with butane torch and 140 watt gun. I covered all that exposed copper stranding. Forgot to take a pic tonight.
I was able to pull the little plastic ring from the potting material under the potentiometer, and then use the dremel to remove enough potting to get at the 3 potentiometer legs:
The two legs on the right are electrically the same. Between those two and the other leg on the left I measured 748ohms. I snipped them off leaving about 3 to 4mm to solder wires to for the external pot.
I got tired, and did not solder wires to the them.I need to find a nice small grommet for where the wires will enter the cover.
Mex, the 12v+ always on/voltage sense wire....If I were to run a separate wire to the battery, does this wire carry much current? Can it be 22 awg?
I plan on 12awg for the 12v+ ignition switched on and for the Field terminal, and 10awg for the one field terminal to alternator casing, and the ground from transpo casing to Alternator casing is 10awg.
Looking forward to dialing a voltage when driving. If it all works.