Mex, I thought you intimated that you conversed with the Guy at MegaWatt.
I see they just recently added the 50 amp megawatt on their site.
They really need to have better spec pages on these if they are serious about selling them.
I removed some fluorescent lighting from kitchens whose residents were legally blind. They still have some vision.
I replaced them with LED cans bought from HomeDepot. Both ladies remarked how much better they could see with the LED lighting.
Unfortunately some of these LEDs are failing 8 or 10 years later. Most likely the drivers burnt out rather than the LEDs themselves.
12 Days later and I have not had a stalling or stuttering issue since I reflowed the solder on the circuit board, and the engine starts and runs super smoothly.
I have used various Caig DeOXit products on a majority of other electrical connectors. D5 to clean, and Gold or Shield to protect after cleaning. The 02 sensor, Map and TPS sensor pins and sockets were heavily oxidized, as well as the connector for the fuel pump, despite a liberal coating of Dielectric grease "protecting" the contacts from degradation. I've got a bunch more connectors to deal with in a preventative maintenance mindset, as I am simply so impressed with how much oxidation Caig D5 DeOxit is able to remove even after a thorough cleaning with other products.
I could not really get much, if any Caig F5 Fader lube inside the Throttle Position Sensor as opening it up to reach the conductive surfaces would likely have ruined it. I just made a puddle in the one receptacle and moved it through its range with a screwdriver and the F5 either crept in or Evaporated. I did not check to see if resistance changed nice and linearly with movement beforehand, so Did not afterward either.
Anyway, it seems the demons have been exorcised and I have confidence again in my Vehicle's propulsion unit. Looking forward to getting Caig products onto other mating electrical contacts throughout.
Looks like they have a 500 amp versions too.
I wonder what the shunt looks like and whether is is 75mV OR 50mV
Accuracy Volt ± 1% + 2byte / Amp ± 2% + 5byte
Resolution 0.01V, 1A, 0.01W, 0.01Ah, 0.01H
Resolution to 1 amp, but 0.01 Watts?
My chingrish translator smells something funny.
Wait a minute, this can't be the product Mex is either praising or denigrating, or perhaps he is denigrating the readers here. One can never tell.
My link is 36$ something with no free shipping.
Can't be any good
I've never bothered trying to fix the heating pad, nor bothered to replace it. I've not yet needed it this winter.
My GE Nighthawk H6054 sealed beams have been getting 14.5v+ for about 65 hours total now, thanks to a 12 AWG relayed harness.
These are said to be the best halogen sealed beam in this size factor, but not a terribly long lived bulb.
I am probably among the few who has both a flooded and an AGM I can cycle independently, and also has the tools to measure amp flow as well as an adjustable voltage charging source. So I did a little experiment, and the results were generally as suspected.
Those with lower voltage charging sources will be able to charge AGMs faster, but when voltage is pushed higher the gap narrows but to what degree, I cannot say.
Last night I took 55 AH from my screwy flooded 31
At 9 AM the solar had voltage upto 12.6v
I set MW to 13.9v and plugged it in.
18 amps began to taper immediately
When I cranked it upto 14.9v, 40.95 amps
Comparing this with the AGM which had 30 amps removed, the AGM took 22 amps at 13.9v.
So at least in my two batteries, the AGM does indeed accept higher amps at lower volts. I don't know how much faster it would charge overall to 80% to 90% or to 99%
But again, the flooded battery has 330+ cycles on it, the AGM ~ 30. So it is hardly a scientifically accurate observation.
I took 30 AH from my 90 AH AGM last night, not really enough to see bulk stage, and my MW can only do 41 amps anyway.
By 9 AM the solar had this battery to 13.0V
I plugged in the MW, set it to 13.9v then plugged it into the battery.
Battery was accepting 22 amps total and amps started tapering instantly.
I then bumped up voltage to 14.8v, and amps jumped upto 32, and started tapering.
Usually, I see about 1 to 4 more amps into the battery over the AH from full screen ( at ABSV) on my monitor with the flooded, when amps begin tapering.
The AGM exhibited nearly the same behavior.
If one cannot take advantage of the initial higher bulk rate many AGMs can accept, then I believe flooded will still easily win the overall $ per Cycle equation. While likely measurable, the quicker acceptance stage is likely not profound, certainly not enough to warrant spending double over flooded
Also not all AGMs say they can do Extreme recharge rates like Lifeline or Odyssey or NorthStar. Some say no more than 30 amps per 100AH of storage, which is well less than a flooded can accept. Seems these limited amp AGMs are the lower $$ AGM. Perhaps these less $$ AGM are better for low and slow all day solar, but they tend to not have the high CCA ratings, which would support large inverter loads better, nor the low self discharge rates, and are limited in bulk charging amps.
I like my AGM for its insane ability to crank my engine starter violently fast, and the higher voltages held during deeper cycling, but in the end, these mean very little, as my Flooded can still start my engine easily even when 50% discharged, and supports my maximum loads, and I consider my AGM to be an expensive 'bragging rights' battery that means little to one who does not feel the need to brag.
I could really use that 165$ extra I spent on the AGM right now versus a flooded marine battery which could perform the same tasks I ask of this AGM.
I do like the no/low maintenance aspect, as it is located in a difficult to access spot in my rig which contributed to the failures of my previous flooded banks.
Once Lifepo4 is only 2x the price of a top tier AGM, then I'll consider them, but initial outlay is the painful part for me, and for many I believe. I also want to see more data from those cycling them in RV usage. I somewhat follow the marine based Lifepo4 threads, but not so closely that I have confidence in 2000+ cycles.
Adapters of a new technology tend to want it to be superior and justify the extra expense, and perhaps this desire is enough to skew the results, if what is posted online actually represents actual results, instead of the human tendency to get others to agree with them to justify their own opinion.
I think AGM's made many similar claims over flooded back when they started becoming commonplace in boats and RV's a while back, and for the most part those 'advantages' in cycle life have not turned out to be true.
So, on the sidelines I wait for more real world testing/cycling of liFePo4, and for prices to drop, which will likely take a new latest and greatest anode/cathode technology to come to market, making Lifepo4 or LiCo as antiquated as Asphalt jarred lead acid.
How long before this happens?
I can try and test the 13.8v acceptance on my Group 27 Northstar AGM versus my Screwy flooded 31.
From previous cycles of both, I can notice that when I set the MW voltage to 14.9v and let my Meanwell dump 41 amps into either. The Voltage rises faster on the flooded battery, and once battery voltage approaches 14.5v amps start tapering.
But it is not an even test as the AGM is 90 AH and the Screwy 31 claims 130AH, and now has over 330 deep cycles on it and the AGM, perhaps 30.
I do notice my AGM can accept more alternator amps than the flooded battery can. The larger flooded 31 tops out at about 75 to 80 amps when depleted, the Smaller Northstar AGM-27 will take 105a when my alternator belt starts squealing, so I don't really know how much it can take when depleted. Somewhere north of 105amps.
All I can say definitively is, is that my NS AGM cranks my engine faster, and holds higher voltages the next discharge cycle the higher the recharge rate is.
Odyssey AGM says a minimum of 40 amps for their 100AH group 31 when deeply cycled. So no low and slow solar recharge with these, if you believe their engineers. Northstar makes many similar claims as to performance and lifespan as Odyssey, so I've been using this 40% charge rate as the minimum for my NS AGM, and only cycle it deeply when I have grid power to run my MeanWell, or enough driving to do so that my alternator can quench the depleted battery at a high rate at least until the point where amps start tapering below 30.
I also have been making sure I only stop 14.7v after amps to hold 14.7 drop below 0.4a, and I have seen it take as little as 0.2A to hold 14.7v.
This Northstar battery has a rested OCV of 13.06v, and it held that for 3 weeks when I flew cross country for the holidaze.
I know this minimum high recharge rate does not float many people's boats. I'll believe the manufacturer and my own observations.
I acquired a Weller 8200pk 100/140 watt soldering gun, from Amazon, for cheaper than my local Home Despot, and with no tax, and 2 day (free) shipping.
My older failed ECM, I reflowed and added some solder to all 14 pins. No more pin Wobbling. I installed it, van started up ran fine. 7 times it started fine. 8th time, and ASD relay started kicking in and out, just like 9 years ago when I replaced this ECM.
But, I did not screw things up by resoldering the Pins on the circuit board!
So, I removed my mostly functioning ECM. I depotted it around 14 pin connector. Loose pins were detectable on the backside of the circuit board, and were wobble free after a reflowing/adding of regular 63/37 electronics solder.
The 140 watts of Weller Liquified the solder practically instantly, and I had a length of .032 diameter solder pressed against pin base and it was gobbled up quickly.
I also acquired a bunch of very fine, tightly wound cotton Swabs, and had another go at pins and sockets with both D5 and DeOxit gold. I went a bit nutty with Caig Deoxit D5 and a micro q tip in the dremel and was able to turn more cotton dark gray.
Anyway, reinstalled, it fired right up, and ran great, but the code 53 is still there.
Hopefully the Demons have been exorcised.
Now to have my older ECM rebuilt and have a back up. I wish I knew what part failed, I'm not scared to depot, remove and reinstall components anymore, unless they are super tiny.
Amazing the difference between a 40 watt Iron and the 140 watt Solder gun. I likely could have pulled this off with the 40 watt Iron, but I was able to liquify solder, and add more, and get the heat source off in under a second.
I am impressed with the Weller WEL8200PK. I do not know why I was reluctant to get one as it makes a joke out of the regular irons.
This pic shows the older ECM after I pasted liquid electrical tape over the reflowed solder. Those mini pipe cleaners are quite handy for application and scrubbing.
Sold next to the dental floss in your local pharmacy, but cheaper on Amazon.
I also have acquired some Deoxit F5 Fader lube. I did the 10 turn pot on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 with it as it became crusty and voltage change was no longer smooth. It worked perfectly.
I will be using it on My throttle position sensor too as these are the similar type of construction as potentiometers and faders.
I hope this resolves my stalling issues.
Its dropping, but not quite an easy pill to swallow, yet.
Check out this "drop in" 100 AH in a group 31 jar:
Imagine that. Needing to program the solar controller to turn off completely once the lithium batteries reach 14.6v., or stopping it well before that, as there is no need to get the thing to 100% daily.
I tend to cycle usually no more than 65 AH nightly and need a group 31 flooded Deep cycle that cost me 162$ with tax. I am hoping for 450 cycles from it, and am in the 330 range now.
If the 3000+ claimed cycle life of this lithium battery can be trusted, it'll be cheaper to get the lithium, and I'd have more AH to cycle safely.
Thats a pretty big IF.
Tell you what, I'll start a paypal account and take donations and be the guinea pig and post detailed results and cycle the urine out of it every day till it fails. 340 cycles a year.
The MeanWell RSP-500-15 has been performing well.
I've gotten a new 15 amp GFCI outlet located nearby, so Ive been giving the screwy 31 an easier time since my return to full timing a week ago. I can use my 25 feet 12 AWG outdoor extension cord as opposed to the 100 footer.
I did take 40 amp hours out of it one night, and having all the time in the world to recharge, I set the MW to 13.6V and let it go. I also reduced my solar to 13.5V max basically rendering it useless. It was cloudy/rainy anyway. Amps quickly tapered to under 20, and 42 hours later it was only accepting 0.1 amps at 13.6v. The battery monitor read 0AH from full.
I busted out the Hydrometer at that point. 1.255, 1.260, 1.260 on the 3 easy to read cells.
I cranked MW back upto 14.9v at that point, and the battery took 7 amps to get up there. It took about 45 minutes to taper to under 2.5 amps. I did not check SG again. 13.6v was obviously not going to complete the job on this battery. Perhaps if I had another week plugged in, but I suspect not, not with this battery anyway.
42 hours at 13.6v was obviously not enough time to max out the SG and my lying battery monitor could use a smack across the face, but how could it really know better.
Anyway this thread is about the MeanWell as a charger/converter, not the Screwy 31, and I am updating because of my cheapo 10 turn 1K ohm Potentiometer.
It always had kind of a crusty feel when turning it, and recently, when lowering voltage slowly, it would jump around and cause the overvoltage protection to kick in and out as voltage instantly dropped 0.4 then back up 0.39 according to GT power meter. It got to the point I would just disconnect the 45 amp Anderson power poles, then lower voltage, then plug it back in, as the overvoltage protection kicking in and out is a bit unnerving and cannot be good for the unit long term.
Anyway I decided to obtain some Caig DeOxit FaderLube, the F5, the 5% solution, not the 100%, in a spray can. I removed the 3 small screws holding the Pot together and opened it about 1/8" and sprayed it liberally inside. Thenclosed it back up, and spun it back and forth the full 10 turns several times. Right side up and upside down. Crustiness is now 95% gone, and voltage lowering, or raising is now Smooth as can be with no jumping around. Dialing in a 0.01v change is now gloriously easy.
I probably should have obtained the f100 solution which has no cleaning ability but is safe for conductive plated plastics like faders and potentiometers, but is 100% lube instead.
Anyway, I'll be using this Caig f5 on my Throttle position sensor, and next time I visit my Musician friends and neighbors I'll bring my various Caig products and get rid of all that crustiness that occurs when they twist their leads or turn their pots and move their faders.
Obligatory U tube video about LiFePO4 capacity testing
Sure they are initially pricey, but you do not need as much AH, need not worry about top charging and EQ charging or storing them at full charge, and get 5 or 6 times the cycle life of lead acid.
Still. I cannot afford the expenditure, and I still have the screwy 31 to whip to death to satisfy my curiosity.
I used to spend a couple cumulative months a year down in Baja, camping in remote areas with few around.
The Crystal Meth infiltrated the small coastal fishing villages.
Been 8 years since I returned. I miss what it was, and feel sorry for those affected by this evil drug.
Not Blue, It's a little silver rectangular pill that takes over when the automatic preprogrammed bigger silver rectangle directed blood flow to less enjoyable parts.
But for some, this is 'just fine'
Better to keep 'batteries', happy, with all tools available, and the knowledge how to use them properly when the situation calls for them.
And there are times just to turn off the hearing aid and Nod.
What brand of AGM?
Generally, converters do not excel at feeding any given battery all it can accept during limited generator run times.
AGMs tend to be lumped together as to their charging requirements but they actually vary widely as to what the AGM manufacturers want and recommend for best life and performance during the lifespan of their batteries.
For example some lesser $$ AGM's say to limit Amps to NO MORE than 30 for a hundred amp hour battery, while Odyssey says when their battery is deeply cycled, Feed their Hundred amp hour battery No LESS than 40 amps initially until 14.7v is reached and then 14.7 is to be held for 4 hours or until amps required to hold 14.7v fall below 0.5amps.
Lifeline AGM basically says to Feed them as much amps as you can muster but do not exceed 14.4v and terminate charge when that 100 AH battery needs no more than 0.5a to hold 14.4v
So trying to find the converter which best fits your AGM's is not just a Powermax vs PD vs Iota.
In come the frontal lobe chargers, or adjustable voltage power supplies which have gained favor with many of us. We choose an end voltage and the power supply feeds the battery all it can provide and as much as the battery can accept at that voltage, until battery voltage nears that end( Absorption) voltage.
COnverters suffer from 'premature efloatulation', dropping voltages to 13.6 or 13.2 well before the battery is done accepting what it wants at 14.X as as such, recharging slows to a crawl, while you waste gas and annoy everything around who can hear or smell your generator.
And here you will get those who love to proclaim how quiet their generators are, or that nobody is around anyway, and bla bla bla chest thump, and their system works 'just fine' and their batteries last years and years in their quest for approval of their methods, without realization or care that everyones needs, uses, and desires differ.
Beware of "just fine!". Often it is synonymous with "has not failed yet". Often it means " I have no real Idea, nor do I care, and you should do the same".
This 'Premature efloatulation' is fine when one has a power pedestal to take as long as needed to shoehorn the last amphour back into the battery, but on a generator it is a whole different game.
There are a lot of ways to skin a cat, and no one right way for everybody, or every cat.
I choose to have a 41 amp adjustable voltage power supply( MeanWell RSP-500-15) for when I have ~120 vAC available, 198 watts of solar does the majority of my recharging, and I make sure my alternator is not limited by thin cabling between it and the thirsty battery and I do not fear letting it feed either battery 75+ amps upto the 14.9v my vehicle's voltage regulator allows.
I have one of those hungry AGM'S that loves huge recharging currents, and I only Deep cycle it when I have enough miles to drive or AC available to feed it 40+ amps, and I mostly cycle a single flooded battery to 35 to 50% or deeper the rest of the time. 11.25 out of 12 months a year and likely more than 27 out of every 30 days, continuously.
And it works, "just fine :)"
Niner, I Guess that site did not like an image to be hotlinked from them and changed it out.
Twas just a picture of He-man and his electrified sword.
I'll remove it before they come after me with those funny jackets.
And Yes, for those that did not follow the 22$ cheapowatt thread from last fall, the poor thing burst its guts out after 17 minutes of providing ~538 watts when it was rated for only 350.
Then I bought the MeanWell RSP-500-15, and finally got the charger which does what I , and my battery, want.
And it will max out in the 600 watt range without releasing magic blue smoke or requiring constant twiddling of the Voltage pot to keep it at max safe output
Still have to attach a few extra heatsinks to it that westend mailed me.
I'll likely seek a better 10 turn pot too as it is a bit crusty, but perhaps a bit o Caig DeOxit Gold sprayed inside will smooth things out.
For us not so technical people, are these Megawatt (or Meanwell) units compatible with some kind of remote voltage control? I have a nice place to mount one close to the batteries but far from accessible. It would be nice to be able to optionally equalize with it without removing the sofa.
Now Mex is mad at me! :B
If you have some soldering skills you can remove the 1k Ohm tiny potentiometer and solder 2 wires in its place, and install a new 10 turn 1 k ohm potentiometer where you can adjust voltage easily, and laugh maniacally at your new found power.
I've done this with my 22$ cheapowatt, may it rest in burnt pieces, and my Meanwell RSP-500-15.
My neighbors are getting a bit tired of me swinging my machete around in my He-man outfit screaming :
"I have the Power!!!!"
Oils will list a TBN figure on their spec sheets.
Total base number.
The engine oil gets acidic with use and time. Time is related to the amount of condensation and condensation cycles. Moisture slowly makes the oil acidic.
Mobil 1 oils usually have TBN numbers close to 10.
TBN dropping is not linear. It usually drops to half or so fairly quickly, then levels off.
Blackstone labs will test for TBN if that box is checked. They recommend changing it when it drops to 2 or below.
If you really want to know how long you can go, send off a sample.
My opinion is it can go years. With short trip driving, It it not getting the oil upto 100c or so for at least 25 minutes that causes the TBN to drop because of not enough time to burn off condensation.
Short generator exercise runs might be considered as similar duties to short trip driving.
Screwy 31 has never been fed by a generator.
solar, alternator, and grid power, in that order.
am 2500 miles from the screwy 31 for 2 more weeks. No loads but a 0.09amp fan 24/7. I put it at 14.1absv for 30 minutes or when amps required to hold 14.1 drop below 2.0 amps.
Float at 13.1v.
Northstar agm was bursting full And is hooked to only engine computer.
50%+ Discharges resume on the 7th.
Merry xmas and all that