It is an AGM battery with certain recombinant abilities, and no listed upper limit on initial charging amps.
Whether the vent has opened and allowed some gas to release is an unknown. What I can say is the battery performs very well, and behaves much better after a high amp recharge from 50% to a 0.5% capacity amp tapering at absorption voltage. Behaves much better than a low and slow solar only return to full.
While I can notice it lost some of its violent engine cranking ability in its ~32 month lifespan and 350 deep cycles, based on voltage alone during discharge for the AH removed to the 50% range, I can detect no loss of total capacity. I am sure there is capacity loss, but in 100% to 50% depletion levels, I am not seeing any obvious signs of it, and am impressed with this battery, so much so that i no longer have a dedicated engine starting or house battery but use this one battery for both duties, and without fear.
All my available charging source's voltage, can now be precisely controlled, which was not the case when this battery was new and first started cycling. I was a the mercy of my vehicles voltage regulator, which was bat **** crazy, and a Schumacher sc2500a, which loved to go to 16+ volts at 25 amps and make any battery gurgle and gass.
MexWanderer set me up with an adjustable alternator voltage regulator, and turned me onto the adjustable voltage power supplies, and my solar controller is adjustable too, So I've got all bases covered, and a hard working hard cycling well performing high$$ AGM battery.
Northstar group27 AGM battery. 90Ah capacity.
5:58AM 53Ah from full, 12.1v under 0.8 amp load
62.2f battery, 61.3f Ambient
Apply Meanwell's 40 amps set to 14.9v( accounting for voltage drop on wiring at 40 amps)
35 minutes later at ~14.6v at battery terminals, amps begin tapering from 39.1.
~1 hour later 14.6v accepting 21 amps...... 78.9F.
~ 5 hours later accepting 0.4 amps at 14.5v, 72F, ambient ~67.4f
Battery warmed more than expected. Ambient temperature only increased 6 degrees during the ~6.5 hour charge.
Thermocouple sensor tip located on side of case, on middle cell, mid height with a big blog of arctic silver thermal grease held in place with black Gaffers tape and one layer of reflectix over that surrounding 4 battery sides.
More glad than ever I can control the voltage the alternator is allowed to maintain when driving. The 14.9v the original VR allowed, combined with a hot battery, has to have been bad for this AGM, which is on about deep cycle #350, yet still performing admirably, as long as it gets this high amp recharge every so many deep cycles.
Battery located Not in engine compartment, but under van body behind driver's seat. The sensor's location allows it to read engine heat when driving and it takes a minute or 3 after engine shutdown for an accurate battery case temperature reading. This engine heat in this location is also more than expected. Longer highway drives likely help heat battery much more than expected in this location.
Overall, I greatly underestimated battery temperature rise during charging, and when alternator charging, this heating can be even more pronounced, and detrimental when voltage is allowed to be held up in the high 14's.
I've been using this 4 channel K type thermocouple device, and so far have sensors located on battery, alternator casing, and voltage regulator transpo540HD added heatsink.
'fiberglass resin' is a term that kind of bugs me.
Generally it is polyester resin and generally comes in two types, laminating and sanding. Sanding/finishing resin has a wax in it that rises to the surface and seals the resin so that it cures. Laminating resin does not have this wax and will remain somewhat tacky and will clog sandpaper.
Most 'fiberglass resin ' sold is sanding resin. This resin MUST be sanded before any secondary bonding can occur.
The lower the sandpaper grit, the more mechanical tooth there is for better mechanical bonding. Chemical bonding is not going to happen in this instance.
Fiberglass can be saturated with epoxy, or vinylester, or even freaking crazy glue, or 'Amazing goop' or brush on roof sealer, or paint, or freaking feces.
Getting a great bond to ABS plastic is not so easy.
Yep Mr Wizard caused me to bookmark the Baylite back in April when he first posted of this meter, I only recently placed order.
After my initial tests it went back in its box, other projects taking precedence..
There is a little button on the back for both changing the display from volts or amps or toggling between them, and this button, if held depressed for ~2 seconds re zeroes the meter, so access to the backside is recommended and will play a part in how I mount mine. I was hoping for some nice cable that matches the 3 wire ribbon wire provided with the meter but failed to find something similar enough in a quick search
I have voltmeters on my dash already that are too bright. I used 35% window tint, 2 layers, to tame them down so they are not blindingly bright when driving at night.
I also replaced my high beam indicator with a blue LED, which is so bright it feels like I am being blinded by 55 watt HIDs in halogen housings from the oncoming lane. 3 layers of window tint tamed this light, but that LED bulb is coming out next time I am in the dash cluster. No dashboard indicator light needs to be that bright, except perhaps oil pressure.
Mine arrived last week, and I tested it against other ammeters, not knowing which one to believe. They were generally within 10% of each other. My Sears clampmeter needs new AAA alkalines as they are in the 1.21v range and Nimh's in it had readings off by 25% when i first got it.
The bayite only has a 0.2a resolution and indicates negative amperage not with a - sign before the number but a period after the decimal placed number.
I found the voltage to be 0.2v out of line with reality, there is no voltage calibration potentiometer.
What I want to find is some nice flat 3 wire ribbon type cable. like which came with the device, so I can locate the sensor further away from display, cleanly. The 6.5 feet provided is not enough, given my intended locations.
I intend to measure total alternator current with it with display visible from drivers seat, initially, but will likely move sensor to another wire to display amps into and out of battery after enough data is collected.
The sensor says it is only good to 140F so no engine compartment mounting locations.
I wish the display were red instead of green, but Oh well.
a 14500 lithium cell has a diameter of 14 Mm and a length of 50MM
an 18650 cell is 18mm diameter and is 65mm long.
individual protection circuits add a smidge of width and a mm or 3 of length to the battery.
An appropriate charger for many tyoes of cells would be this
It has a 12vDC input as well as 120/240vAC
I have many 18650 cells i extracted from failed laptop battery packs. usually only one cell fails and takes out the to other n parallel with it. The cells I have are from 9 cll packs that cost only 22$. They are not good high capacity cells and do not retain their capacity very long.
panasonics make some of the best lithium cells.
I use my 18650s in my Headlamp and a portable USB power source, adn save my panasonic NCR18650Bs for tasks where run time is more important, the laptop extractions are just swapped out when they can no longer maintain the desired output on my nitecore HC50 headlamp, which is a 565 max lumens on Turbo, but cuts back one it gets hot or the battery cannot maintain the voltage needed to drive the cree led this hard.
I have acquired the Bayite ammeter linked 2 posts above,
It came with the 6 inch cable as well as a 2 meter long cable. It says the sensor is matched to the display at the factory and to not mix them up if one employs more than one.
It will read amp flow in both directions, but instead of a - before the number it uses another decimal point after the tenth of an amp such as 10.2. ie 10.2. = -10.2 amps
Its resolution is only 0.2, and the voltage screen was 0.2v low but can be programmed to read only amperage. There are no calibration potentiometers on the circuit board
I compared it to my other ammeters and all agreed in the 2/12 and 20 amps ranges but not extremely closely. I am not sure which one is most accurate. i found the 4 year old alkaline aaa batteries in my sears clamp meter to be down to 1.28v and using nimh's in it when new had caused significant errors
I've not tested it at high amperages than that, yet. But it appears to be accurate enough for my purposes.
It says the sensor is good to only 140F, so engine compartment mounting is out.
I intend to measure total alternator output with it, at some point, but doing so will require disconnecting one of my parallel circuits, and I want to upgrade the other circuit further as it is just 6 awg jumper cables doubled together with an improper termination on the alternator end, as I did not have a proper tool when I added it.
I have some temperature data on battery, alternator and voltage regulator with a new toy that can display 4 different results from 4 different thermocouples. Need to refine results, but the battery heated more than expected, past the 77F from well below that , and the transpo 540hd voltage regulator also heats up more than I expected, and low rpm is when it gets hottest. The alternator temperature also rises significantly at lower rpms even moving, and when coming off the highway and idling at a light it really skyrockets. and the battery was only requiring ~25 amps to be held at 14.5v at the time, but I did have lights and blower motor on high for about a 33 amp load.
I'll start a new thread with these temp datapoints once I record them. Yesterday I just observed and did not record readings, and the total alternator amperage would be a good data point too and this Bayite HES Ammeter should help to refine the data.
I was rather surprised to see cell number 6 at 1.260. When I took it out of service 11+ months ago, I could not get it above 1.255 after an extended EQ charge, IIRC.
Could be hydrometer inaccuracy I guess.
I expected that cell to short out a long time ago.
When this battery does fail, it will be inconvenient to repower all the 12v items I have in the workshop running on it.
It still lives.
It gets cycled daily anywhere from 5 to 35AH sometimes I draw about 35AH from it over 3 to 5 days.
It gets recharged by the Schumacher sc2500a on the AGM setting, which will seek and then hold mid to high 14's for a few hours, even after it flashes the green full charge light, then drops to 13.6v float. I keep a GTpower meter on the output to judge how much it required to return to 'full' and judge/ guestimate depth of discharge by that, but sometimes there are the loads running while charging throwing off that number somewhat.
TOday I went to put a thermocouple on the Northstar and found corrosion on the terminals. I had not looked at this battery in at least 20 months.
I remember losing the nut provided with the battery and found this Wingnut which fit. I guess I should busted out the magnet on it instead of assuming it was Stainless.
I am guilty of using poor quality ring terminals in the past. They have been removed and thick walled Ancors hydraulically crimped. DeOxit D5 and the dremel returned the brass to a gold like appearance. Felt washers saturated with dielectric grease now surround the base of the now spotless terminals.
I just got this neat gizmo which can display temperatures of 4 different K type thermocouples. I thermoepoxied a thermocouple on the transpo 540HD's voltage regulator's added heatsink, since I could and it is very close to where it will be mounted for testing. I already have one on My alternator's casing.
The screwy31 has been subjected to a lot of Wood dust in the last ~11 months.
When I was cleaning the Northstar terminals, I rehooked the screwy31 to my Van again as I try to not disconnect the solar controller from a battery when the sun is up. Also i was listening to the stereo.
On its way back towards the workshop's floor, I decided to pull the caps and clean the dust and dip the hydrometer, for old times sake.
5 cells were at 1.270 or 1.275 but number6, one closest to the (-), was 1.260. no water added since it has been relegated to workshop duty.
I have checked it during a 12 amp recharge and it no longer gets hot on the bottom of that weak cell. 25 amps reaches absorption voltage in under a minute, so i rarely use 25 amps on it.
The electrolyte was clear, and my solar controller had held it at 14.5v for 2 hours while I cleaned the Northstar's terminals and recrimped new ring terminals on the 4 and 2awg, and then carried it back to the workshop, so it should have been sufficiently agitated to cloud the electrolyte.
Perhaps i removed it from RV service too soon.
It has to have a good 200 more shallow to medium cycles on it since removal, and perhaps only one or 2 events where the schumacher brought it above 16 volts when i forgot to employ the AGM setting. Perhaps once I used the MeanWell on it deliberatly holding it at 16 volts for a period of time.
So, it is not dead yet, and is still useful powering 12v LEDs and 12v computer fans, and a 12v TV. Its voltage held during discharge is not impressive, but is not really a factor powering these items.
The Northstar-27 is performing very well as my only battery in the Van, but it requires the meanwell's 40 amps avery so many deep cycles or it gets lazy, or perhaps punch drunk. When it is punch drunk it can take 10+ hours at absorption voltage before amps taper to 0.4a at 14.5v or even 14.7v.
The voltage this battery holds during discharge and during engine cranking is impressive. It has about 325 cycles to below 60% charged and at least 200 cycles to ~85% charged and a significant number of cycles to 92% or so as well, and not including the thousands of engine starts.
When I pull 45AH from it( 90Ah capacity new), and remove the all loads but for 0.3 amps worth, voltage rebounds to 12.26v in about 10 minutes. It has no issues what so ever cranking my engine first thing in the morning at~ 51 to 55Ah from full.
Very impressed with this AGM.
Soon I will have data on how much it heats during high amp charging.
I put the thermocuople on the long side of the case, in the middle, like page 18 in the Rolls surrette user manual says to do.
My opinion on the pulse desulfators is that the marketers had a well lubed orgy with the applications engineers and the lawyers with their butt plugs already set deep said go for it and the accountants could only say if it helps the bottom line and the lawyers say were are safe making outrageous claims of magical battery restoration, then a thumbs up from us, when do we get our bonus?
My friend has a battery minder 12248, and I put it on a battery whose capacity had noticeably dropped, for 10 days it sat there happily flashing away indicating it was defying physics with that human soothing flashing green light.
No difference the next discharge. Voltage under load dropped to the same levels as before the 10 days of the magical pulse desulfation. No change at all.
Give a lesser AGM a 29.9% charge rate from 50% a few times and then hold absorption voltage until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity.
For a higher quality AGM, 40% charge rate from 50% charged until 14.4+ volts and then hold until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity.
If that does nothing, then bust out lifelines conditioning procedure and monitor the battery closely for temperature.
4x GC2 will work fine with 300 watts solar.
I'd agree only if stipulating that the depth of discharge was no more than 30 to 35%, and one was not boondocking for weeks on end relying only on Solar to recharge.
In such conditions as daily cycling to the 50% range for extended times, then a higher wattage to capacity ratio needs to be utilized to keep the batteries happier.
I got a better cycle per dollar ratio on 198 watts feeding 130Ah of capacity than I did 230AH, but there were some other factors involved such as holding absorption voltage for the required time to reach at least near 100%.
A high solar to capacity ratio makes this time at absorption voltage much more likely to occur, and make for happier longer lasting worry free batteries.
Right no I have 198 watts feeding 90AH of AGM, but I need to give it the high amp recharge every so many cycles from its most depleted state, or it will pack up all its toys and go home, making it not great as a solar only battery.
Charge rate is important and arguably more so when the clock is ticking and the sun is dropping.
Trojan bumped their EQ voltage from 15.5 to 16.2?
Perhaps they've been reading the Rolls Surrette User Manual
I thought the Megawatt topped out in the 15.3 to 15.5v range?
To be fair to the T-1275, both detailed reports we have on charging these beasts are from those who got them after they have been worked hard and heavy in a golfcart, then relegated to RV duty whose owners performed lengthy conditioning charges to get some more life from them.
Perhaps they might not fight that last 5% of charge so petulantly when newer and given their 14.8 absorption voltage for as long as needed from the start, as the OP seems to want to try and attempt. But agree on the t-105s being superior, if 232Ah is needed.
The capacity retention of my AGM seems dang impressive since I check all its boxes during most every recharge.
I use a Modified Meanwell rsp-500-15 to recharge it on the grid. 40 amps delivered at any voltage between 13.12 and 19.23.
Never got the spring wound timer for it, but I would choose a 6 hour version. 80 to 100% takes 3.5 hours on my 90AH northstar AGM. A whole 18 AH returned in 3.5 hours with 40 amps available.
But but but.....
This interesting writeup on a Lifeline gpl-31t shows just how long it takes to recharge a battery, even when the charging source holds the proper absorption voltage for a slong as it takes:
would it not be possible to Tap the turn signal circuit before it reaches the flasher unit?
My landlord's 90's era Buick lesabre has these cornering lights. Nice to have as his headlights are dim and the plastic lenses need a polishing.
I aimed my foglights to go a lot wider of an angle, and also rewired them with 10awg and a relay. This proved too much in terms of heat dissipation. Their included 18 awg wiring was apparently intended to also limit the heat generated by the bulb.
Right now the foglights are removed.
I got a Wagan elite 400 watt PSW that is very small and the fan does not become audible until ~150 watts.
It draws almost 1 full amp less powering a 50 watt heating pad than my 800 watt coleman MSW inverter, which is a loud annoying SOB.
To be fair, the slipper michys on my sisters VW jetta, well that was 30 years ago.
My recent pair of michelins shown, well I never noticed them being slippery in the wet, but I do not recall testing their limits in the rain either.
Last time I drove in the rain here. Lightly braking going downhill, the oil infused asphalt had my one front tire lock up with barely any pressure. The other tires did not break loose, if they did it could of got ugly. I got some Kumhos now, but they will die of old age with lots of tread left on them.
Michelin XCX-APTs ( built for and sold only by sears in ~2003/2003 with 65K miles and 8 years:
Lots of baja washboard at high speed, aired down, and foolish use of dollar store tire shine no doubt contributed to their appearance:
Tread depth at 65K miles was still~ 1/2 inch in the center of the tread:
Those Tires never let me down, and only one screw puncture in those 8 years.
Once many years ago my sister had some michelin long life tires on a VW jetta, and had to slam on the brakes. They tires just locked and skidded as if we were on a wet road, but it was dry. Traction NOt impressive. I could not believe how long the car just skidded with 4 tires hissing as the car in front of us got close all too quick. If it wears like iron, the traction is likely like iron.
A high amp charger powered by a generator would be fine since on day 5 you get to go home and plug in and get to 100% charged, however long it takes, and it takes a long time after many cycles without a full recharge.
The successive 50 to 80% charges cause the batteries to lose capacity slowly, as they want that 100%, but only 3 or 4 50% to 80% you should be good to go.
Making sure your charging source seeks and holds 14.4v+ whenever the generator is running will be paramount. Your Wfco will not do this, happily wasting gasohol seeking only 13.8v.
I use a meanwell rsp-500-15 which is capable of delivering 40 amps upto any voltage I choose between 13.12v and 19.23v. Right now it feeds only a single 90Ah Northstar AGM battery which has no issues with high charge rates.
80% to a true 100% takes 3.5 hours on this battery when held at 14.5v.
With more cycles without reaching 100% or with low and slow solar as the only charging source, 80 to 100% takes considerably longer as this particular battery wants the occasional high amp recharge from its most depleted state.
The trimetric has an Ammeter, no?
How many amps were flowing? Some PD amperage will go to feeding DC loads, the rest should go into the battery and be read as +48.X amps or so.
Takes a while for voltage to rise when the batteries are at 55%
It takes my single 90AH Northstar AGM when drained to 50%, about 35 minutes at 38+ amps before reaching near 14.5v, at which point amps taper.
When amps taper to 0.4a, at 14.5v on this battery, I consider the battery fully charged.
Sometimes my battery monitor agrees, often it is 1 or 2AH out and that 1 or 2Ah can take one or 2 hours more at absorption voltage before amps taper to 0.4 or less.
Blindly believing the trimetric is not wise. they drift with accumulated cycles. Best thing to do is reset them when specific gravity is maxed out, and lower the total capacity as the batteries age, or watch the AH from full display instead of the % remaining.
When the batteries lose capacity, and the trimetric reads 55%, the batteries could actually be well below 50% as they are no longer ~160Ah, but perhaps 140, and might not have started the discharge cycle at a true 100%.
When these group 24's fail, 6v GC-2s are real deep cycle batteries and nearly the same footprint, just taller and will yield 2x the total cycle life, all factors being equal.
But since you will have ~65 more AH total capacity with them, the depth of discharge will be less, so they will last even longer.
The design of your lamp's reflectors plays a huge part in which LED and its layout, will be acceptable.
Generally LEDs do not work well with the reflector and the LED chipsets are best off when all of them point in the direction where light is desired. The flat boards with multiple LED chipsets.
I've been impressed with the 5730 chipsets, much more so than the 5050's. I prefer the single Cree emitters behind a projector lens the most. But these are super directional.
The Sailor's peeling those green banannas are hardly dimwits, and are dang impressed with the taste.
One guy who has all the special tools for precise capacity measurements says that at cycle 765, his 400AH lifepo4 bank is still delivering over 400AH
Post 5136 on that linked page thread, page 343.