Well, I got around to getting some Deoxit inside the 14 and 60 way connectors.
That Caig DeOxit 'technicians kit' I acquired, came with these nice precision applicators/Qtips which fit perfectly into the sockets in the 14 way connector, and had even smaller ones in which the tip could reach perhaps half way into the 60 way connector, whose pins are smaller.
I first used the crc QED for the pressure wash, then q tips to clean and dry and buff pins. Then Deoxit Spray, on all 4 mating surfaces and let it sit.
The generic Q Tips I used to mop up excess and buff the 60 pin connector turned dark grey, I went through 4 Q Tips, both sides, and the pins turned shiny and silky oily smooth. The fifth q tip stayed pinkish with the deoxit.
The Caig kit provided mini q tips/precision applicators fit perfectly inside the 14 way connector sockets. The first one turned dark gray after the 4th socket and fell apart after the 10th and was dark black. The second one was medium grey by the time I got back to the first pin, and black by the time I finished the 14th. The third, light gray and still in excellent condition after cruising through all 14 sockets.
The 60 pin sockets turned the other, needle like swabs, black, even faster and I went through all the kit came with, but then started wrapping cotton from the generic t tips around the precision Caig needle sticks. Until I was fairly satisfied the smaller sockets were clean at least 3/4 the way deep.
I wound up using the last of these precision swabs to apply the DeOxit Gold, which they say is great for dissimilar metals. Which these connectors are.
The Q tips or swabs used with Deoxit gold stayed pretty clean, a light tan color and can be reused.
The connectors seated like butter. Dielectric grease sealed their perimeters after seating. Zip ties took all wire weight off both connectors. I cut a very thin hard Rubber wedge and used it in between the 14 ways connector's 2 halves.
Ran great to the ocean and even better back, but the code 53 is present again.
I doubt the Stalling issue is resolved and no doubt will come back at some point as the pins are loose and floating in the circuit board.
Anyway, anybody who ever used any other contact cleaner and thought it removed all contaminants, as well as oxidation, was wrong.
The amount of grey black crud I was able to remove with Deoxit after using CRC, twice, was amazing.
I have always used generous amounts of Dielectric grease on these connectors. These contacts were heavily oxidized despite its generous over application.
I am totally serious. I will be removing and cleaning each and every connector on my van with this stuff. And treating it with DeOxit Gold or Shield and Apply Dielectric grease after the connector is reseated. I really want to get inside my throttle position sensor and idle speed actuator motor, and 02 sensor connectors.
I want to get more of these precision Swabs. And the CRC QED cleaner or similar, as it is great for flushing and dissolving ugly old over applied dielectric grease and grime before getting the DeOxit on contacts and completing the job the CRC and dielectric grease alone, simply cannot.
Probably won't happen till January as I'm flying east for the holidaze soon. I'll Deoxit the connector before then, but Until those pins no longer wobble on the circuit board, I will fear the stall.
I want a 100+ watt iron before attempting to reflow solder, I only have a 40.
I'd love to have those gremlins exorcised, as I might have felt better about driving somewhere less crowded for the incredible swell hitting the coastline:
Taken from my driver's seat Yesterday. It was supposed to be raining and howling onshore winds, Instead it was sunny and offshore.
Rainmageddon, run for the hills, panic and go shopping people, just dont stop shopping!!, says the guy who wants a real soldering gun.
No arguement from me.
I am thoroughly impressed with it and am eyeballing every single connector everywhere and picturing piles of black q tips coming off 'clean' spade connectors that infest the original wiring harness of my van.
Ok , I'll admit when I am wrong and post it publicly and subject myself to a curmudgeon's derision. No offense Mex :)
I rescind my claims that the pins and sockets of my new junkyard connector were pristine upon reinsertion and that Stabilant 22 is a good product for this application.
deoxit vs Stabilant22
But for those who don't click links:
Stabilant is more solid and requires re-application if the connection is disturbed or changed. This becomes very important in high vibration applications (equipment and systems with moving parts, transportation, aviation, etc.).
My Caig kit arrived yesterday, and last night I decided to clean the dirty 14 and 60 pin connectors on the Older ECM.
First I used the CRC QED cleaner to remove all dust and old grease. I even used a bunch of q tips and very small pieces of cotton cloth held with precision tweesers to really get the connectors free of all visible dirt and contamination. I buffed the pins with q tips saturated with the QED cleaner. Man oh man they appeared clean under 565 lumens of LED light, and a magnifying glass, but perhaps a little rough.
Then I sprayed both sets of pins with a light shot of Deoxit spray, the 5% stuff and set it aside. I came back with Q tips after 5 minutes or so and buffed the pins
I went through about a dozen q tips as they first turned grey, then black as the pins went from rough grey/white to polished oily silky smooth chrome as I twisted the q tip back and forth buffing the perimeter of the pins. I did this until the q tips did not darken but stayed pink from the De oxit spray.
The Brass pins on the 14 way connector were not as oxidized and did not need as much loving to become clean and silky smooth, but I figure the new junkyard connector could have dirtied a dozen more q tips after I QED cleaned it, and foolishly and publically declared it pristine.
I still believe the solder joints on the circuit board are compromised, but I will certainly be treating everything, every connector, ever switch, anything electrical which can oxidize with these Caig products.
yesterday i twisted by hand a small screw inbetween the 2 connector halves, and have not had a stall since. Rains and swell has kept me from applying Deoxit to the semifunctional ECM in my Van as of yet, but soon.
Examples of success so far.
The spray has stopped my 3.5 stereo mini plug cords, from phone/mp3 player to stereo from crackling when moved or twisted. They join and unjoin better than new. I can swear my stereo sounds better too. It is so so much easier to insert the plug into the phone, and it just feels right.
My turn signal lever, lately, was requiring more and more pressure to get past the Detente where it holds on its own. I was afraid other lubricants would cause issues if it got on the electrical contacts. Getting deep inside the steering column for precision lubricant application was too much effort. I sprayed the general area of springs cam and contacts with DeOxit. Now it takes half the amount of pressure to move the signal past the detente, and it does not disengage with a loud clank when the turn is completed. The signal indicator illuminates with much less travel and pressure than before. And this improvement makes driving round town much more pleasant as sometimes I feared breaking the lever to get it past the cam to where it would hold on its own, and would hold it just before the cam to indicate a turn.
Apparently some got on my gear selector lever too as that now turns easier.
I Sprayed on my Phone's micro USB connector, left for a bit and excess wiped off, It now takes half the effort to seat the connector, and it feels like new again..
I used a Q tip to clean a 14500 Li-ion battery top and bottom and the receptacles inside a flashlight with rubbing alcohol, as I have always done.
I then sprayed some deOxit on a Qtip and did the same thing and it came off battery black, and another qtip came out of flashlight black.
I have 2 90 degree RG6 connectors to my TV, which is on a swing arm. Sometimes when I move this swing arm the tv loses a strong channel and needs a little manipulation to come back. A few sprays of Deoxit on and in the f connectors and this is no longer an issue. I suspect there is also a signal increase but cannot verify.
I'm simply too impressed with this product. My kit came with 3 small bottles of Deoxit, the Gold and the Shield, along with small tubes of 100% concentrate as well as wipes and some application tools.
I'll be ordering a larger can of deoxit Spray, because I am going to go over every connector everywhere, and my little can is already half gone and I am looking at more and more things I can use it on.
This is the older, original ECM.
The only loose pin on this one, is the top right. I can move the pin's tip easily 1.5mm but cannot see any corresponding movement on this side.
The potting did not really fight much, but getting it to this stage was about an hours worth of labor using a dremel, razor and precision sharp flat bladed tweezers.
I'm seeing a lot of Jeep forums where they have the same issues with stalling and power cut outs and stuttering, and their PCMs are much more difficult to get inside of, but a resoldering of these pins is a permanent solution.
But I want a higher wattage iron before attempting
Weather Nerds might want to bookmark this weather model:
I'm not saying the GFS is the end all be all of weather models, but a few days out is is pretty good.
I hope it is a good rain event without too much collateral damage to the northern part of the state which will bear the brunt of it.
I'd love to see a good storm down here closer to the border, but usually they start fizzling by the islands, and I'm not sure I've seen a SW or SE or NW wind over 30Mph in my 20 years living here.
This place could use a good Nor'easter to wake some people up.
We just got to Bakersfield, CA yesterday from Minnesota:)
You should just prepare to laugh your behind off at what passes for a storm in California, compared to what you see in Minnesota.
Perhaps if you were up at elevation you'd raise an eyebrow, but in the valley, You'll be doing a belly laugh.
You need a higher amp charger, the megawatt does 30 amps reliably, the B&D will do upto 40, and your batteries if they are taking 12 hours to get to 14.6v, well sounds like they could easily handle an 80 amp charger. What can your genny handle powering?
My single 130 Amp hour group 31 takes 41 amps easily from my Meanwell rsp-500-15. if it is 51 amp hours from full, and I set it to 15V, it takes nearly an hour before amps begin to taper.
Good size swells are already massaging the coastline well south of point conception. I just got out of mother Pacific after riding some storm energy.
It is quite comical how the local media acts when there is a storm coming. Newcasters standing out in a light drizzle, in front of a puddle, saying how rainmageddon is upon us.
But what is sad is the mentality of the drivers. They speed up and tailgate more, apparently because they know that at some point, there will be a freeway blocking accident, and they need to get home before that occurs.
Makes perfect sense right?
The other half that dont speed up and tailgate, take selfies in the driver's seat being sure to include rain drops on the window, so they can tweet to all their followers, how inclement the weather truly is.
Then they speed up and tailgate.
Sound of shotgun being cocked.
Well hoping the deliveryman has a functioning reman'd ECU is one option. A 230$ option.
Another option is resoldering these 14 pins of which at least 4 are suspect. The Caig products are going to go on every connector I have, but the goal is getting these pins firm in the circuit board again. Achieving contact and immobilizing have got me 40K miles, but I can no longer trust it knowing that there is an open contact, just resting in position via pressure, rather than a solid mechanical connection.
How viscous is the d100 dropper anyway??
I think if you were to see the obstacles to dripping d100, stalagmite style, you would recommend not wasting it, unless it can flow like penetrating fluid and completely defeat the purpose of the 3/8 to 1/2 inch of soft squishy potting material it would need to traverse after making a few 90 degree turns around the base of the pin
And the potting material's job is to keep liquids from infiltrating as well as immobilization.
So I'll be pursuing some practice at removing potting, perhaps acquiring a higher wattage soldering iron, and practicing on my older original ECM. If it goes smoothly then I will attempt the same with semi functioning ECM. perhaps I can get the original ECM to functioning again, as the one pin is lucy goosey, but I suspect other issues internally.
And if that does not work, then ordering a new one.
My MPG is not that badly effected. I was able to eek out close to my maximum recorded fuel economy on my latest roadtrip.
Not that that is a number to be proud of. It is a Lead brick pulling a parachute after all.
Thanks for the input.
I'll update with some photos as I attempt to do a proper fix, with solder.
Egad!! You cantankerous curmudgeon of a fuddy duddy know it all!!!
Did you ever consider that perhaps I was looking beyond just this particular task?
How about the smallest bottle of "shield" available is 25+ dollars
The smallest tube of D100 is $9.99 and comes in the kit
So if I were to order just these two recommended products by themselves, I would spend 7+$ more, and would not get that oh so covetable storage Box that comes with the Kit!!!!
I'm gonna cover it in glitter.:R
Not to mention the Deoxit gold!! In both spray form and concentrate!!
And don't get me started on the wipes!!!
All kidding aside, I was impressed with all the information Caig provides online, and I thought the Kit was a neat job of marketing and packaging for which I wished to reward them.
I can get a q tip down around those pins, but I gots to remove a bit of cotton, or get the super inexpensive q tips from the 99 cent store whose thin plastic stems are too weak to effectively remove itch inducing wax from my outer ear.
Mex, are you saying if I were somehow able to get the d100 back behind the connector, so that it infiltrated the circuit board/Pin solder joint My issues would disappear?
The connector base in the photo shown on page one, is about 3/8 to half an inch away from the circuit board, through the potting. I seriously doubt the d100 could creep that length through those obstacles.
I'm not going to trust it, until the broken solder joints, are solid again.
Kind of strange attempting to sort out all the different products Caig offers.
I like the idea of a spray. And, a bottle type brush can certainly get where I need it for this connectors mating surfaces, and then there is the cleaner, the gold and the shield series, and a thousand different products. 5%, 100% how to know what to get?
And it is apparently impossible to find one person who does not have a miracle fix story by the use of these products and not one bad review, other than those complaining about price.
So, I just ordered the Technicians' SURVIVAL KIT through Amazon for 28$
And it should cover all my needs/desires.
For after I 'hopefully' repair the solder connections.
Say I succeed in depotting the 14 pins, and resoldering them, can I use regular clear RTV to re pot the circuit board?
Or should i just cover them with some Deoxit shield can call it macaroni?
Hmm, I just opened up my original ECM for a better look. One of the Pins is very loose and I can see it wiggling on the base of the circuit board through the clear potting.
The Potting is a bit discolored around this pin, and a few others that are still seemingly tight.
Perhaps all that is wrong with this original failed ecm, is the same thing, this 14 way connector base.
The wire broke off this connector before i wound up replacing the ECM for a No start or stutter after start condition. I thought it had failed because a transmission wire was shorted to ground, but I guess there can be more than one reason.
The vehicle is an 89 dodge van.
i can pull the DTC's by doing the 'key dance' and counting flashes of the check engine light. I know OBD1 scan tools can reveal more information and might look into acquiring one
While the connector design is poor , my issues began by tech's piercing the wire insulation right next to the connector.
I first discovered the issue about 10 years ago when deep in Baja, and noticed a hole in the wire insulation with some green corrosion poking out. When i touched the wire, it broke.
I had no real choice but to drill through the back of the socket through the end of the connector, strip the wire, insert it through the connector to be sandwiched by pin and socket. I was lucky to have drill bits and a drill with me.
I was foolish for not acquiring a newer connector upon my return, or perhaps seeking out a connector Down there, but the vehicle drove fine. Over the years 3 more wires suffered the same fate.
yet I still did not seek out a new connector.
I had suffered some random stalls again years ago and wound up splicing new wire onto the old damaged wire and reinserting new wire, yet I still did not goto a junkyard for a newer connector. as i should have.
So many many reinsertions where lots of reseating pressure occurred.
I am not sure the current flowing through these wires. They range in thickness from 20 to 14 AWG.
I'm in total agreement about the problem prone connections, but my current issue has to be the pin/circuit board solder connection and not adequate electrical contact between pin and socket.
Yeah, Perhaps I should practice with the original ECM which is not functional at all but does have a core value of about 75$
I hadn't though about immobilizing the pin from the other side when trying to reflow the solder. The pins are about 3/32 inches diameter and the solder blobs 3/16" or so, but I fear screwing it up,
And I fear the Potting material.
Theses connectors are well known for breaking on the circuit board. And my previous 'get me home' fixes added much more stress to this area when a stripped 18 gauge wire was compressed between socket and pin. It required a good amount of force to reseat the connector and I wound up doing this to 4 of the 14 wires over the years, with multiple insertion removal cycles. So it seems logical that this is now the area at fault.
Also when I grasp the pins with some precision tweezers, some of them move more than others under light pressure.
This is not an issue with the pin/socket connection any longer, it is an issue with the pin's solder connection on the circuit board. After a certain amount of time and heat cycling combined with vibration, the pin loses contact with the circuit board.
The Socket/pin connection on my cleaned and tuned up junkyard connector was pristine, and the dual spring arms in the sockets bent inward to tightly grasp the pins, and both were slathered with stabilant 22a which has a pretty good reputation in its own right as a contact enhancer.
I did not just spray the CRC electronics cleaner in there and call it good, but used mechanical means to lightly abrade the interiors of the sockets and the contact cleaner to flush out debris, and old dielectric grease, and used nearly a whole can in doing so.
And I'm not dissing the Caig products, and will acquire some when I've got some income coming in.
Well, the issue is not resolved.
Intermittent stalling has returned, along with the code 53, and wiggling or pressure exerted on the connector base allows restarting but the code 53 returns after a while, and I fear stalling anytime.
Here is the backside of the 14 way connector under the potting. One or more of these solder joints is compromised.
This is an older photo. I've not yet reopened it up so any broken joints might be more obvious than in this photo.
Each solder joint in this photo is 3/16" across or so. I've called around a few electronics repair places locally and they want no part of this, and I'm thinking perhaps I should attempt it myself.
Man, I wish I had more skills and confidence in this department.
Here are some photos of the Junkyard connector I cleaned up and spliced in.
I wish that back up ECM I ordered was not defective.
I just found my original ECM that I never returned for the core charge. The Pins on this original ECM are tighter than on the one underhood at the moment, but it has some failed components.
If i send it out to be rebuilt, it might not return before I fly cross country for a few weeks.
If I try and resolder it myself, and fail, then I am screwed until I get a replacement.
6 of one, half dozen of the other.
I've got the 2 meter thermocouple, its wiring is much stiffer than what came with my DMM.
I've already got the arctic silver 2 part epoxy.
I guess when the alternator does fail, or needs removal I would just have to sacrifice the thermocouple.
It was only 6$, and my curiosity should be satiated by then.
But My engine computer issue tops my priority list and I don't know when i will get around to installing thermocouple and collecting data.