I was also surprised at the C cell desirability.
I've gone to the 18650 or 14500 Lithium batteries for my flashlights. My 14500 Sipik clone can also take AA batteries but its throw with a 14500 is quite intense and impressive.
I have opened one up my old laptop batteries and have a good number of fully functional 18650 cells. Only one of the 9 cells was bad, the other 8 still have a majority of their capacity left. I use a nitecore I4 v2 charger on all my rechargeables whether 18650, 14500, aa or AAA. It can be fed 12vDC but did not come with the barrell connector to make 12v hook ups easy.
Lithium batteries do need to be treated with more care than alkaline or Nicad or Nimh though.
Never trust a salesman to actually know what they are talking about. When they do not know the answer, it is their job to appear as if they do, and they start spewing forth all sorts of crap.
And Consumers seem all too ready to believe the clueless salesman trying to make a profit off of them.
Consider one of the 24v power supplies as a charger.
Like the Meanwell SE-450-24
If you every have 120Vac available when you need to run this 24V motor, this can both recharge your 24V battery bank, and power the motor.
You could just set the voltage once, and allow it to run only so long for battery charging, but you will need an Ammeter to know how long that requirement is, and with an Ammeter, can do a better job than any staged charger
I can put a 20 amp load on a recently retired worn out 12v group 31 DC battery I no longer trust enough to cycle in my RV, and voltage does not drop that low.
I've no experience loading 6v GC batteries though, for a comparison, but as Mex said, something sounds amiss.
So nobody makes an adjustable one that is meant to be adjusted all the time? In my dreams it would also have a timer, also easy to set.
Powermax makes adjustable voltage power supplies in various amp ratings, but there have been some hiccups regarding implementation that were detailed in the closed thread a page or 2 back.
The Meanwell I bought was never intended as a battery charger, and the adjustable voltage pot was not designed for continuous and simple adjustments. They are a power supply, designed to be set once and closed up within the device needing a certain DC voltage
The Adjustable voltage power supply used as a battery charger is for the over controlling type who does not trust a plug and play automatic charging source to the the job it claims to do, and to reduce generator run times, by forcing a high absorption voltage to be held as long as desired.
They are also not designed to be at max output for their whole time in use, which is what a depleted battery will do.. Increasing cooling when maxing them out is wise.
I too would not mind having mine on a timer, but so far have not bothered implementing one on the 120Vac side.
MeanWell also makes 24v power supplies of various amp ratings.
Some solar controllers do allow voltage charging parameters to be set, but do not allow one to directly limit amps.
Naio, how many amps do you need/ desire?
The meanwell/megawatts have very small voltage adjustment dials requiring insertion of a jewelers screwdriver and a fine touch, and you also need to provide the AC cord as well as the DC output cables.
And of course they are not automatic and can overcharge if set too high and left on too long.
The Meanwell SE-350-15 has the constant current limiting feature which makes it good as a battery charger.
The middle number is the rated wattage. They exceed this by 25% or so, my rsp500-15 will do 600 watts.
The second number indicates their voltage range median point.
My RSP 500 15 specs 33.4 amps and a range of 13.5 to 16.5v
It actually does 40 amps and its voltage range is 13.12 to 19.23v.
I remember desoldering the pot and adding 22 awg wires for a remotely mounted 10 turn on the Cheapowatt to be pretty easy. Hardest part was getting the thermal grease off my fingers from the disassembly of heat sinks from casing.
Much more difficult and involved on the Meanwell with a much higher price for failure. I cursed up quite the storm getting the old pot out, and the holes for the wire insertion cleared. Much less room to work and a double sided circuit board to deal with.
Gave me confidence though. My soldering skills have improved since, just keep the bernzomatic electronics lead free solder away from my iron or gun.
Your new AGMs depleted to 12.2 resting, will still suck everything the power supply can make, if you cannot lower the output voltage of the power supply to very close to that 12.2, then dial it up slowly until the generator starts struggling.
My Meanwell goes down only to 13.12v, not sure about the MegaWatt.
Either of my group 27 or 31 batteries will take 40 amps, but briefly, when the PS is first hooked up in the 85 to 90% charged range, even when set at 13.12v.
My watt meter records peak amps and minimum voltage.
Sorry Naio, did not mean to confuse. This was just a different observation of battery charging compared to what I have observed a hundred or more times now with my adjustable voltage Meanwell and its attached watt/volt/amp meter/counter.
I had the Meanwell set to 14.45v when I plugged it into the over depleted starting battery which had measured 9.23v on my multimeter when the owner dropped it off to me.
I am used to seeing a 50% depleted battery just slowly climb toward 14.X at a solid 40 amps until battery voltage approached the my desired 14.x set voltage of the meanwell, and then amps would taper.
This over discharged 3 year old starting battery instantly rose to 14.45V and it only required 23 amps to get there. But after 30 seconds to a minute of slapping this battery upside its head, the voltage had dropped as the battery decided to stop resisting the meanwell's full available current. It was like removing all the hair and junk obscuring the drain on a sink.
I had heard about this behavior on an over discharged battery, I had just never witnessed it, and it was neat having the tools to watch it occur in real time.
I did notice the battery getting hot at 40 amps, and I wound up dialing the MW voltage all the way down( 13.12v) in an attempt to lessen the amperage. It worked, and the rapidly climbing battery temperature levelled off and began to drop, with a fan on it. I just came back every 15 to 20 minutes and kept bumping up the voltage little by little trying to keep it under 25 amps. Soon it was at 14.45v and I just held that Constant voltage, Absorption stage, for about 6 hours, unmonitored as Friday night occurred. It was only taking 1.23 amps after those 6 hours at 14.45v.
And I will stand by my opinion that one desires constant current limiting on overload, rather than automatic shut down until overload is removed, or hiccup mode on current overload.
But if one is only starting this Meanwell after another charging source has gotten the battery to absorption voltage for a while, then that works too.
I personally wanted an All in one charger, equalizer, and float voltage converter. I got sick of weighing the compromises when comparing/researching other charging sources. I love the MeanWell's freakish ability to bend any LA battery to my will. It cost me 127$ delivered, but I put another ~30$ into it with quieter additional fans, and 1K ohm 10 turn potentiometer, and solder and the Wattmeter inline on 8awg with 45 amp powerpole, was another 25$ or so.
----Distant maniacial laughter fading-----
Thanks Mex, for turning me onto the possibility of a Powersupply as an adjustable voltage, Kick burro manual charger.
That particular unit says it employs hiccup mode protection on current overload.
I believe one requires constant current limiting on Overload for depleted battery charging.
This one does, for ~35$
My MW rsp-500-15 gets a workout. Just yesterday it held 40 amps for an hour straight charging a fairly healthy starting battery that had been depleted to 9.23v. 14 hours after removal from meanwell, battery is at 13.14v. It was interesting to watch the inline watt meter during the first few minutes. It only wanted 23 amps at first, and voltage instantly rose to 14.45, but a minute or 2 later voltage had dropped to 12.93v and the battery was gobbling up 40 amps.
If that breaker bar snout pin should break because of an insane amount of leverage I would be defintely up ---- creek without a boat never mind paddle.
I like the Aussie version of this.
Up $hit creek in a Barbed wire canoe without a paddle.
Picture painting at its finest.
RJ says he can power his PD9245 with his Honda 1000.
I've measured 42.5 amps from my project PD9245 with short ~ 15 " 4gauge SAE leads.
At least the PD you can press a button for 4 more hours at 14.4v.
Id rather turn a dial for the voltage I desire, but push button absorption holding, and still plug and play certainly has its merits for many.
naio, if you have the skill and tools to properly solder 6awg wire, I say just continue that route.
Don't know about ratcheting crimpers for upto the 10 AWG terminals, but my hydraulic harbor freight crimper is not a one handed device. The last few compression strokes as the lug and copper stranding are at the limits of compress-ability, I use two hands and the strength of my arms to make the dies touch.
So the hand strength is not required as much with the Hydraulic crimper, it is more about dexterity to hold the lug inplace as one moves the arm closer to touch the dies to the lug, and hold the wire in place while getting those first few compression strokes in.
Once the lug is compressed enough for the wire to not fall out, I then use two hands, one to hold the tool and the other is on the handle to lever it closed. More arms strength required here than hand grip strength.
There is some awkwardness in the process of getting the Dies to hold the lug, and then holding the copper wire in place and then cranked down.
Lugs are too expensive for mistakes and redo's
I have a Meanwell, similar to the megawatt capable of 40 amps. I can change voltage simply by twisting a dial. I also have an Ammeter on the output.
When my single 12v battery is in the ~75% charged range, at 14.5v it will be taking about 35 amps, and if I drop the voltage to 13.6v the battery only accepts about 3 to 5 amps, if that.
So generator charging and the Wiffco are not a good match as the MegaWatt set at 14.4+v, will do much more for a single 27, using less generator fuel. You can also dial the voltage all the way up just to forestall the amps from tapering as battery voltage approaches the mid 14 range and pressure differential is less.
Rotating the Die and recompressing and shifting the stranding within can't be good for the Lug or the copper within.
The Ears are simply because the Dies are too small. If the Dies were the proper size for the Lug, there would be no ears, and all the clamping force would compress the Lug and stranding within properly. If the ears form, then a large percentage of clamping force is no longer compressing the lug into the wire, but the lug into itself.
An Eared crimp is Not acceptable, to me. I am not going to pay 1200$ for an industrial quality crimper, but If I am just going to accept an Eared crimp, I might as well just crush the Lug in a vice and put two layers of thick walled heat shrink tubing to hide the thing.
Grinding out the Dies on The HF crimper has given me good results on 2awg lugs
The 0awg lugs as they are marked work well on 4awg lugs. Anything over 4awg and the HF crimper is going to leave Eared crimps.
How bad is an Eared crimp? I don't know. It could be electrically and mechanically acceptable, or it might not.
I'll shoot for something that would pass an ABYC inspection, and I'll modify the Dies as needed to get close as I can to that>
Here is my latest 2awg ring terminal compressed with my hand ground/filed dies:
I think we are just guessing as to what is going on behind the scenes regarding Errin and Randy and what products are being sent out with what labelling.
Seems like they never thought anybody would actually use an ammeter on one and test its maximum output. Perhaps it is a genuine mistake, or perhaps it is sinister business practices
We know of three incorrect amperage models mailed out with the correct stickers. How many more out are out there?
FWIW, I ordered 100 amps through randy who is in Idaho, and the 75 amp unit that arrived was sent from Powermax's Florida address
pay for 75 amps, get 45.
Pay for 100 amps, get 75, and have your intelligence insulted and told to roll with it.
I hope it all gets sorted out, and people who choose this manual charging option, receive what they order.
I recommend anybody needing 60 amps or less of adjustable voltage power supply, go with the Meanwell rsp-750-15.
At least this model can do 16V eq voltages.
My MW RSP-500-15 adjusts from 13.12v to 19.23V and upto 40 amps.
With a 10 turn pot and a Watt meter inline on the 8awg output leads, I have full confidence in it.
I recently groud out the smallest dies(14awg) that came with my harbor freight H crimper.
Exactly how much to file/grind out was trial and error, and I missed it on the 2 awg, going a smidge too far, and not quite far enough on 6awg lugs.
Some folded aluminum foil on the 2awg leaves me a beautiful earless crimp, but the 6awg still pinches some ears.
I really wish one could just buy the proper size lugs, But I'd be happy with just a template to scratch into the improperly sized lugs and then grind them out to the correct size.
I've been using the thick walled rig terminals from Genuine Dealz and they are well made.
Never considered making my own lugs from copper pipe. But will consider it in the future.
Somebody here once modified a PD92XX for a different voltage.
I really like the size of the pd9245 for my application. Perhaps in the future I will figure out how to Modify it yet void the warranty, if more of this type of projects are in my future.
I wonder how many amps this lifeline 31 cold handle providing to an inverter and for how long. I am mating it with a 400watt PSW, but I imagine someone might be impressed with a higher number inverter.
Well, back to the power tools.
I did think of you Pnichols when the PD had mysteriously dropped out of Boost and went into 13.6v 'normal' mode. The depleted Lifeline was still accepting 37 Amps at 13.6, and pressing the 14.4v boost button on the pendant again only raised amperage by 5.5 amps which is the limit of the PD9245 in my observation/ measurements.
I would not be able to accept a 13.6 or 13.8v maximum voltage of your parallax, and I'd personally not buy batteries specifically to make use of an old outdated single stage converter, but there is more than one way to skin a cat, and we can argue over the effectiveness of that skinning, without end or conclusion and without affecting the other's opinion.
Mating battery and charging source is wise, but if the charging source is limited, I'd not limit my battery choice.
I hear good things about Full River batteries, but only by people who have not had time to run a set through their lifespan. Most just say they are 'just fine' and only have a voltmeter and limited understanding of how a battery ages anyway.
All they really know it the batteries still meet their capacity requirements and are quite proud of that , and love to use the words 'just fine'.
One such Full River owner has a low opinion of Lifeline AGM as a friend o f a friend's wife's neighbor's cousin's friend had one which needed a professional 'reconditioning' after a year of too little low and slow solar, and they did not just outright warranty the improperly recharged battery.
I am impressed greatly with this Lifeline battery, not only in my 50% load test, but in the design of the terminals. Unthreading that silicon Bronze automotive post revealing a beautiful low profile silicon bronze female threaded mating surface below, with apparently an epoxy holding it in place instead of a heat pressed seal, is truly confidence inspiring.
I really wish the T-1275 came with such low profile terminals, it would simplify my intended mounting greatly.
The removal of the automotive post will allow my to mount the lifeline battery on its side, reducing height of the powerpack and increasing its ergonomics in intended use. I pulled the PD off the battery at 0.8 amps and 14.56V, because I needed to see if these posts could be easily removed.
Now, about 22 hours later the OCV is 13.23v
They used red thread locker on the threads.
Here is a pic of thick walled 2awg ring terminals compressed with my harbor fright hydraulic crimper and reground Dies. No ears!. All 8 tons of clamping force compressed the Lug properly:
It might even meet ABYC standards, once the adhesive lined heat shrink is in place. The 2awg is tinned marine wire from genuine Dealz. Pretty flexible for 2 awg. Way more flexible than store bought 4 gauge SAE.