You were able to tig weld heat aluminum sinks to the megawatt aluminum casings with arctic silver thermal compound in between them?
I used the Arctic silver 2 part thermal epoxy on my Meanwell. Had to avoid the transistor bracket screw holes.
Amazing how much ambient temperature affects all the heat producing things I now have temperature sensors attached to.
I have a masterflow MV-50 12v aircompressor, which draws 200 watts or so.
I deflated my bags completely. I put my watt meter inline on the Mv-50's power cord.
Attached mv-50 to schrader fill valve.
Voltage dropped from 12.42v unloaded to 10.28v at ~ 19 amps.
51.25 seconds later the airbag reached 100PSI.
I filled other airbag, forgot to turn on stopwatch
I returned to first airbag, which was now ~75PSI and filled it back upto 100PSI, returned to other airbag, found it at 85PSI and returned it to 100PSI. One bag filling takes weight off the other airbag reducing its internal pressure which is why they PSi lowers when filling the other bag. Some escapes attaching the tire chuck too.
Watt meter claims I used 0.856AH, 9.0Wh to fill both bags to 100PSI, but it does not factor in peukert and its accuracy is not overwhelming, despite the 3 place decimal.
The masterflow compressor is rated at 150 PSI. I have modified it with better airlines and a locking tire chuck, and improved heat dissipation, but these modifications likely do not affect its speed much.
51 seconds is nearly twice what my estimate to 100PSI would have been, so hats off to real data and tools for measurement.
I can, and do, plug this compressor into a better shorter thicker circuit for doing tires, but where it is is basically for pressurizing my water tank to prime my water pump, and for the airbags, and while the 2.2 volt drop on the 12AWG from fuse block is more than desirable, it is not worthy of me running thicker cabling. I can just unplug compressor from here and move it to reach thicker copper via 45 amp anderson powerpole connectors on 8awg, as I have 45 amp anderson powerpoles in many places on shorter circuits to battery.
I have run compressor directly off meanwell rsp-500-15 set at 14.5v, Runs much much faster. Sounds much different too.
The voltage drop I measured does not take into account the drop from powerpole to actual motor which is another 6 feet one way of 14AWg as provided, so improvements can be made on this circuit too for faster speeds.
I was never impressed with any 12v air compressor which came with a ciggy plug. Each one was slow, and burned itself up at the worst possible time.
My ride rite airbag kit was about 235$ in 2007, but prices have increased. I used aftermarket airhose and Push to Connect fittings, and the 'no drill' claim on my kit was totally false. Unless one wants to drive a self drilling screw into frame with a rachet and a thousand hours of cursing.
I love the adjustability factor, as my loaded/ empty weight difference can be vast.
The trimetric is either not zeroed properly and your actual state of charge is higher, and/or the PD is faulty as it should seek and hold 14.4v when asked for 'boost' via pendant/wizard.
I'd expect 2 50% depleted group 24's at ~8-AH capacity to be able to suck 25+ amps each initially for at least 20 minutes before battery voltage approached 14.4v and amps begin to taper.
Perhaps PD getting confused by solar voltages above 12.8v, but boost button should seek 14.4v for 4 hours, and if it is not, then It no workkeee as designee
With firestone ride rite airbags individually plumbed helping out my leaf springs, and with interior schrader valves, i can raise the rear ~4.5 inches at 100PSI, or level it side to side ~ 4 inches with 100PSi curbside and 0psi streetside.
I have done the lift mattress and stuff pillows under one side to keep from rolling out when facing downhill. I do have some ride up levellers but only use these occasionally.
I don't stress too much having a perfectly level bed anymore, but too much angle does hinder comfort.
Today I saw my battery was 98F, about 12F hotter than ambient and still climbing at 14.4v.
Took forever to lower absorption voltage on the solar controller. Wish it had a 10 turn potentiometer to twist instead of pressing a series of buttons about 3 dozen times, Just don't hit the back button.
Really wish I bought the more expensive solar controller which had input for a BTS. Worst 35$ I ever saved.
My fridge is a small compressor fridge, but the Dust build up on condenser and condenser fan blades is an issue.
I mitigated it by installing an air filter on the intake vent. This white filter, designed for use behind vents in stick and brick homes, turns brown quickly.
The dust which accumulates on the fan blades now is made of much smaller particles and takes much longer to build up to the point it reduces airflow.
But I still remove the fridge every once and a while and run some bristles over condenser fins with some compressed air assist and use qtips and rubbing alcohol to remove the dust build up on the fan impeller leading edges
I have seen my digital ammeter, during engine cranking, read as high as 170 amps when coastal southern california winter cold ( not very cold) but usually this is ~120 amps overnight cold.
When engine is warm, I see 65 to 75 amps. I think the ammeters refresh rate is about 3 to 4 times a second, and my engine rarely cranks for a full second before catching. I wish I had a clampmeter with a peak amp hold to really see.
My point was that this Northstar battery cranks my engine faster than any other battery, or batteries in parallel, that I have used in the past.
I've started my engine with 65Ah removed from the 90Ah capacity without issue or even cranking significantly slower.
While i did not monitor voltage as closely with previous batteries when starting, whether my stereo turned off during engine cranking was somewhat of a yardstick as to voltage held during this event.
2 newish flooded marine 27 batteries in parallel did worse on this yardstick than my single Northstar AGM. I've never seen my stereo turn off during engine cranking with the Northstar. My stereo is wired to bypass ignition.
For purely deep cycle duty I believe the Lifeline battery is unbeatable, but when dual purpose is required, perhaps Odyssey or Northstar are the better choice. Sacrifice some cycles for higher CCA/ instant available juice. How many cycles are sacrificed, vs how important those higher CCAs are,is certainly subjective with many many contributing variables, and I cannot guess.
Not sure it is really worth stressing about though. I'll be deep cycling My Northstar-27 to death while doing my best to recharge it properly, regularly. So far, it is behaving well, and honestly, impressively so.
The only noticeable difference in its current performance compared to when new, is the Super violently quick engine cranking ability is somewhat diminished, and it reaches absorption voltage with lesser amperages required than when new. But in terms of voltage held while discharging 45Ah from it overnight, it is like cycle number 20, while likely in the 365 to 400 deep cycle range and 32 months old.
The 'Thin plate pure lead' AGMs might be just marketing mumbo jumbo to impress the neophyte, or perhaps they have found a good balance between instant power and cycling ability.
I can only report on the performance of my Northstar as I use it, with more observation tools and interest in results than 99.9% of battery buyers, and So far, the Northstar battery impresses me.
Would the Lifeline group 27 impress me as much in the same usage? I have no Idea.
Did you mean 'should not" or 'should' be able to accept 23A?
That amount of capacity, if still healthy, Should not be able to accept more than 21 amps if 95%+ charged.
I would not fear getting a power supply rated at higher amperage.
I can do the 5% constant current thing by fiddling with the voltmeter, but generally I would just bump voltage to 16v and if it required more than 5% of capacity to reach 16v, then I'd give it more time in the high 14's then try again, but I have done the voltage twiddling thing to keep it at around 5 amps.
Not sure how many connection/unconnection cycles an SAE connector is rated for. I once used them widely but they would loosen up, then start heating up, then loosing connectivity. The 10 AWG ones would heat up to finger burning hot at 25 amps when new, and stinky melted plastic hot after several dozen cycles.
I now use Anderson Powerpoles in pretty much exclusively the 45 amp rating/size, but these are less water resistant than SAE connectors. In such areas requireing prevention of moisture intrusion, I use 'Amazing goop' on the backside of the powerpole connectors where the wire insulation meets plastic housings to seal them from the elements and fill the business end with Dielectric grease.
If this SAE connector is connected and disconnected frequently and is asked to pass more than 12 amps, a better connector is in your future. So i recommend having one on had when it becomes flakey, or attending to it sooner, when it is convenient to do so, and not an 'emergency'
Much depends on the batteries and their state of health.
If they are full charged they ' should' not be able to accept more than 21 amps.
One needs to know if there are loads on the batteries at this time too, or if they are disconnected from all possible loads.
I have run an 25 amp schumacher and my meanwell rsp-500-15 in parallel for ~65 amps. You can likely do the same with the Iota.
after the 15 minutes at 14.8v the iota will likely just drop out and do nothing while the meanwell takes over
Resting voltages might tell the state of charge of the battery, but they do not reveal the capacity remaining in the battery.
Apply load, how much does voltage fall, how quickly does it fall.
An aged battery is like a gas tank which gets smaller and smaller, You can still fill it up but when new it might have held 10 gallons, when old it might only hold 0.6 gallons.
Saying the tank was 10 gallons when new means little, saying it is 12.8v+ means little. Saying it can support a X amp load for X amount of time before voltage drops to xx.xx means a LOT.
The harbor fright Cen tech voltmeter does have a calibration pot inside, just make sure to calibrate it with a new battery, and recalibrate it when accuracy is important as they drift with time and with the state of the internal 9v battery.
The internal pot is rated at 25 cycles or so, so ~ 25 calibrations before it is worn out.
Without knowing the maximum temperature and voltage this battery was subjected to, everything reply is just a guess.
here's my guess,
The battery's vent cap on that one cell is defective.
Warranty battery, and get a charger/converter which can at least approach the Deka Intimidator specs as to absorption and float voltage.
Would be interesting to mail that Pic to Eastpenn/deka with a big bold question mark and hear their reply.
Apologies for not seeing that there is indeed a Meanwell rsp-320-15.
But it still has hiccup mode on overload, not constant current limiting on overload.
It says maximum voltage is ~15 too. While actual max voltage is likely higher, will it go as high as 16? Trojan just updated their EQ voltage spec to 16.2v.
Also I have no idea how long it would be before hiccup mode is initiated. To get this meanwell to work, one might have to start it while the other charging source has the batteries up in the 95%+ range, and then the batteries should, perhaps, not be able to exceed the ~21 amp draw of the rsp-320-15 and should not trigger the hiccup mode.
I've found that on the screwy31, after the prescribed time at absorption voltage, when Specific gravity was still lagging and more time at 14.7 to 14.9 was doing nothing but bubbling, that cranking voltage upto 16v would require about 5% of the battery capacity in amperage.
If it took more than ~6.25 amps to reach 16v on this 130 Ah rated battery, I left it at 14.7 or 14.9 for longer then tried again.
This is not Mex's prescribed regimen as I was not current limiting, only voltage limiting, but I did get as many deep cycles as could be expected from that battery, and it is still cycling, just much shallower, and resting on concrete.
I use my Meanwell rsp-500-15 in place of all other plug in charging sources. 40 amp Bulk charger, top charger, equalizer and float.
Twisting a potentiometer to dial in the desired voltage is not the rocket science the automatic' just fine' world believes to be necessary.
There is the Meanwell HEP series which does have a current trim pot and constant current limiting on overload.
The meanwell SE-350-15 has constant current limiting and a claimed voltage range of 13.5 to 18, which is about the same claimed range of my rsp-500-15 whose actual range is 13.12 to 19.23v
If one is maxing out these power supplies so that they are up against the constant current limiting wall, then please increase ventilation over and through the unit. The casing is used as a heatsink so even a weak fan blowing over it will help keep the over temperature protections from kicking in.
Also the small 60x 10 or 60x 15mm computer fans are of suspect quality, and are fairly easy to replace with more reliable and higher airflow dual ball bearing fans.
I've more details about the meanwell rsp-500-15 in this thread:
There is no MeanWell rsp-320-15, there is only a rsp-320-12 and its maximum voltage is ~13.2v, making it useless as a top charger.
Also, it does not have constant current limiting on overload, so if the batteries were discharged enough to draw more than the Meanwell could provide, it would shut off until overload was removed, making it more useless for battery charging.
I have the Meanwell rsp-500-15, which does have constant current limiting on overload, and it will do 40 amps and the voltage range with an aftermarket 10 turns 1K ohm bourns potentiometer is 13.12v to 19.23v. The original potentiometer the range was 13.23 to 19.23v.
I modified it further than just the 10 turn potentiometer, It has extra ventilation and heatsinking, for extra longevity and reduced running of the meanwell provided 40mm fan, which is very loud.
With Ventilation and heatsinking improvements, at 75F, the loud fan does not switch on unless providing more than 34 amps. Without these additional Noctua fans and heatsinks, it would cycle on and off at just 6 amps.
Both NOrthstar and ODyssey tout their pure Lead thin plate technology, and they have the super high CCA numbers which make them effective as dual purpose batteries. How many deep cycles they sacrifice for those higher CCA numbers is a question for sure.
Lifelines CCA ratings are less as they are designed only for deep cycling, but surely have enough CCA for engine starting too. Lifeline also makes starting batteries.
I'll be sure to let this forum know when my 0.060 thin plate pure Lead AGM battery fails in my deep/shallow cycling, and engine starting usage. At this point in its life is is retaining capacity to an impressive degree. So much so it is my only battery, for both house and engine starting duties and I've never had so much confidence in a battery I've owned. It will be 3 years old in November.
If I wanted a pure Deep cycle AGM, lifeline hands down is the winner in my opinion.
But I like seeing my voltmeter stay above 12 volts when cranking my engine.
This single Northstar-27 at 930CCA,when new, could crank my engine faster than 2 flooded marine 27s at 1300CCA, in parallel could, and it also maintains higher voltage than them during 45AH of discharge.
Batteries plus sells Northstar batteries as X2 power, and adds another year onto the 4 year free replacement warranty.
On my experience with this battery I can recommend them, as long as one can high amp recharge them when cycled deeply. Without the high amp recharge, they will walk down quickly in apparent capacity. Sometimes it takes two back to back high amp recharges from 50% to restore performance.
Since Lifeline and Northstar are about the same, price wise, if the higher CCA is not required for engine starting or high inverter loads, go for Lifeline. They are solid and dependable and pretty much the gold standard of deep cycle AGM.
I am impressed with my group27 Northstar, but it requires the occasional high amp recharge, after about 4 to 5 deep cycles, and 100% as often as possible.
From 100% to 50% and about 350Deep cycles and many hundred more shallow cycles, the voltage it maintains under load for AH removed is nearly as good as when new.
Northstar specs 14.46v absorption voltage at 77f
use thick cables from the PD and it's 14.4v should be good enough.
Exide batteries are not regarded well, from What i read online.
Been a long time since I owned one.
When my laptop battery are failing they no longer accept large charge currents. They only accept very little for a short period of time before charging stops.
A new laptop battery sucks much more amperage for longer before tapering to zero. Bigger gas tank requires longer to fill.
I am on my 4th replacement laptop battery with the correct tools to monitor laptop electrical consumption.
I use a DC to DC converter. I rarely bother with an inverter for anything, and certainly not for powering this laptop.
Right now it is pulling 70 watts with a 80% charged battery. With fully charged battery this is between 35 and 43 watts. If laptop battery were below 505 it would be pulling 85 to 95 watts
When the laptop battery is failing with a 20 minute maximum runtime or less, the laptop never pulls more than 49 watts
I have a 9 year old Schumacher sc2500a which was only on the market for a short while. On the 12 or 25 amp setting it will occassionally decide to blow right past the mid 14's and climb upto 16.4 at 12+ amps.
that is on the regular or 'deep cycle' settings. On the AGM setting is rarely goes above 14.9v.
That is real voltage, not the voltage deiplayed on the charger which can be very inaccurate, reading 0.5v low.
I mainly use it on the AGM setting, but if plugged into a power strip, and I turn that power strip on while it is still hooked to a battery, it will start on its own, on the 2 amp 'regular' setting. I have looked down and seen its display at 15.6v and then put my voltmeter on battery and seen 16.4v.
I've read many reports of other Schumachers going to insane voltages with no regards to the 14.x absorption voltages commonly listed by battery manufacturers.
I have upgraded the wiring from circuit board to 10AWG, and the voltage discrepancy only got worse.
I have to monitor this schumacher way closer than my Meanwell rsp-500-15. The Schumacher is completely unpredictable. The meanwell is completely predictable. It just requires being shut off after x amount of time, or have its voltage lowered.