Such a shame that they put in the loudest POS fan they can find in bulk.
Some tiny little fan roaring at 6500 rpm to move 6CFM.
Not a B&D, but I had no issue putting a larger, quieter more efficient fan on My Schumacher
The link says Exide right in it. Are you a serial link clicker? :)
But my limited experiences with Exide products are similar.
I find the product interesting, especially the 0.05% of normal charging rates claim, and appreciate the link.
Wonder how much longer attempts to improve, or specialize, lead acid batteries will continue, or how much longer will economics decide that course?
Good point BFL.
I do plan on using oversized cabling for whatever amperage unit I do decide upon. Perhaps a small voltmeter hardwired to the converter output could be a nice monitoring tool. I recently put some on my dashboard for engine and house battery, and it has been very enlightening to watch them rise and fall as I drive, but I need to feed the sense wires directly to battery terminals instead of tapping nearby circuits.
It seems all sizes of Iota are 3.6 inches or below in height.
I am a little confused about the pendants and whether they included IQ4 or charge wizards are required for 14.4+ or just a bell and whistle and light for remote viewing of what stage it is in. I don;t really need a pendant to force boost modes. A button on the controller itself would suffice, and viewing which stage the converter is in, would be easiest by viewing my battery monitor, rather than having a remote pendant somewhere else to get in the way continuously in my Small camperVan.
I'm not sure yet. US Battery gives fairly specific charging recommendations and bulk currents at 10% of the 20 hr capacity rate, which puts me at 13 amps, and max loading of my DC circuits is likely only 11.5 amps max while charging.
I'd also like it to be able to charge my Northstar engine starting AGM battery (separately, via a moveable connector or switch), which likely wants a 0.4C rate when cycled, and that is a 90 A/h battery, so 36 amps for that. This battery is unlikely to be DC loaded during recharge, if I decide I am going to cycle it.
Still trying to determine which of the 3 brands I am considering most closely meets the voltage and amperage needs of both these batteries, separately. Also, I am limited to a 3.8" height, but length and width are more accommodating.
After my last post I restarted the charger on the 2 amp setting. Unlike before with a higher capacity battery bank, it did not shut itself off in fault mode with the cycling of compressor fridge and mattress heater.
It could not keep up with the load, but it did not shut off and mitigated battery draw by a good degree.
Still gonna get a converter though.
Okay, lowering the fan CFM made no discernable change in the high voltages. Hypothesis invalid.
It appears that having reduced my overall capacity, and having a fresh battery under load whilst charging is allowing the cycling accessories to spike the voltage when they shut off.
My claim that the 12 amp setting allows this charger to work well as a converter is no longer valid with the changed variables of less battery capacity and a new battery too.
I did get it to stop before 15v on its own but it required shutting off my fridge and mattress heater pad. When the pad was turned back on, the 6.2 amp load of it cycling off and on allowed the voltage to jump up to 15, and when it comes back on it drops to 13.2, and the cycling fridge on top of this is another monkey wrench in the gears. I did not forsee this issue when I decided to lower my overall capacity and am not quite sure how a new battery plays into this scenario either. I knew th evoltage jumped around before, but it was between 13.3 and 13.8, now it is 13.1 and 15.3 with the cycling.
So now, Iota, Powermax or PD?
Just kidding, don't answer that.
Since i have no experience with a real converter, I can only suspect they are much more resilient to cycling loads in regards to voltage they hold the battery at. Guess it is time to click that place order button, on one of the three brands I am considering.
Thanks. I put both resistors inline but I think I am going to have to take~ 25A/h from the battery for it to attempt to charge. A 10 amp load for a few minutes while I installed the resistor cables was not enough and it just shut itself down, went into float after ~2 minutes of providing 12 amps, and it stopped at 14.4. then dropped to 13.2.
The fan always runs on this model. Rarely, it will shut off when the charger decides to stop charging when there is no loads on the battery, and it waits for the voltage to drop before resuming and slowly increasing current to hold 13.2/3. It will also shut down the fan when the solar takes over come daylight
When it does decide to do the auto EQ, if flashes a yellow charging light. I have not noticed that light to be flashing when it has been doing the mid 15v range recently, since new fan install.
I'd just like to not to have to babysit this "intelli"charger at the end of charge cycle, as much fun as I would have with a variac and a heavy old manual charger.
Model number sc2500a. No longer in production.
This Charger works pretty nicely as a converter, on the 12 amp setting, handling such cycling loads as a ~2.7 amp compressor fridge and a 6.2 amp mattress heating pad, without getting confused and shutting off as it does on the 2 amp or 25 amp setting.
I've had a difficult time clicking on the "place order" button on an Iota or PD or Powermax converter, because this charger meets my needs, and with the 3 different charging profiles(regular, deep cycle, and AGM/GEL), it might be considered superior in some circles.
However I would not trust if for a GEl battery, and there seems to be little difference between regular and deep cycle, that I have noticed anyway.
MOst recently, and not shown in the picture is that I got rid of the SAE 12v quick connector which loved to heat up, and replaced it with 30 amp Anderson powerpoles, which do not.
What is shown in the picture is the External Fan I installed in place of the annoyingly loud fan that came inside the unit.
The 40mmx10mm fan which came installed in it was rated at 28db, and 6.3 CFM and 0.12a. Much too loud for my ears.
The 60x20MM Fan I installed draws the same current, but moves 3x as much air, and I can barely hear it.
BUT, I think perhaps it is too much airflow. There is no battery temp sensor, I figure there is some sort of temp sensor inside the unit, and now that it has 3x the air flowing through it, it suspects it is in a freezing environment and is raising the charging voltages accordingly.
The voltages which rarely went up into the 15's, now have done so at the end of every charge cycle, and I must now babysit the dang thing, and unplug it, as my batteries are new, and do not need such voltages at this stage in their life.
The new fan came with 2 optional inline resistor cables to lower the fan speeds and noise levels. The slowest one will still move more air than the original fan. I can hook both resistor cables inline to slow it even further but am not sure of the airflow with both in series.
I am not very confident in my fan/temp sensor hypothesis. The fan runs the same speed on the 2/12/25 amp settings, and the charger only seems to produce any noticeable heat on the 25 amp setting. It has also done the sky high voltages before(not for years) with out flashing the light that says it has decided to do the equalization cycle where one might expect to see such voltages. The EQ feature is Not manual
I guess I am gong to install those resistor cables now and see if the charging voltages change, but I suspect they wont, and I will have to babysit it near the end of the charge cycle from here on out, which I'd rather not have to do.
What do you all think about my hypothesis?
I just put my clamp on meter over one wire just outside the ciggy plug. It bounced from 3.2 to 2.7 amps streaming a surf contest in Hawaii. but the battery is fully charged already.
This DC to DC converter is way more efficient than using my inverter to power the AC brick. Depending on the task being performed, upto 45% more so.
My powerpoles arrived and I installed one on my schumacher 25 amp charger.
The 12 awg wire barely fits in the crimped portion.
I reutilized the wiring which came with the charger.
It is green under the insulation, so i basically wasted a set of powerpoles as i have no other wire handy to replace it. I did scrape it to shiny copper before crimping.
The connector is not heating up passing 25 amps, which is a huge difference compared to the SAE 12v connectors I employed in the past, and are shown in the following photo for comparison.
I've made use of those connectors you show. They do heat up, far too much. They are made with 10awg leads too, but the physical connection is just not up to the task of what 10awg can pass.
I'm pretty sure they are called SAE 12v connectors. I'll likely be replacing them all with the powerpoles.
So far, the little teeth I ground onto the ground springs of the ciggy plug are grabbing the receptacle very tightly. The Nipple spring has no chance of backing it out.
I'll still be adding the Blueseas product to the same wall. I can use another 12v plug back there anyway. The ciggy plugs might be a poor connection, but they are convenient requiring one hand only, and not much aligning precision
I have a certain amount of delegated tinker time for improvements to my interior ergonomics. There have been occasions where I needed the laptop converter, in someone else's vehicle. For that reason I stuck with the standard ciggy plug.
I do have some Anderson powerpoles ordered.
10 for 10 bucks rated at 30 amps. Mostly they are going to replace the SAE 12v connectors I found to also be inadequate for bigger loads, even with 10 awg leads.
as no doubt at some point this issue will return.
Well it returned.
The spring turned to mush. Turned from chrome colored steel to a fully compressed springless piece of coiled steel, which looked galvanized.
The 10 amp glass fuse has a couple drips of solder pushed out from between endcap and glass. It had no continuity. But the part designed to fail, looked perfect.
there was no damage to the plastic housing. I replaced the spring, I replaced the fuse. I use a small narrow diamond dremel bit to cut some teeth onto the ground springs so they grab the receptacle tightly.
But I also ordered a Blueseas locking plug and receptacle. It arrived today.
Kind of impressed with the design.
For your viewing pleasure:
The ground spring is one piece.
It has a rubber seal right at the edge of where the two meet.
The set screws are designed to crush the wire.
The receptacle has detents to help lock the plug in place. It can still be removed from the plug when in these detents, but it requires more force than elsewhere in the plug, and more force than any other plug I've ever used. Not sure I am buying the twist to unlock claim. That requires even more effort to remove the plug than pulling it straight out
The rubber seal is also very tight. I'd believe the splash proof claims. With this plug inserted fully, water is not going to get inside. Not really a factor in RV usage, but between the rubber seal and the locking feature, there is no way the nipple spring is going to push the plug out of the receptacle, even in a high vibration environment
Do you have the option of allowing the house batteries to assist in engine starting?
I was running around with a super weak starting battery for a long time, but I knew if it failed. I could have the house batteries assist.
When the house batteries got so weak that I removed them to replace them, I tried running my compressor fridge off the engine battery while I drove to the battery shop. After 30 minutes of powering the fridge, and the engine battery could not start my engine.
I was a bit pressed for time and forgot to take SG readings before I installed the battery and hooked it up.
I had charged it a bit more and it had a resting voltage of nearly 12.9.
After I got it installed and properly secured, I Hooked up the cables and turned the fridge back on. I was a Little disappointed to see the voltage drop to 12.2 quickly, but then, as I watched, it climbed back up to 12.5, while under an ~ 3.2 amp load. Never noticed that occur before.
I wound up taking about 30 amp hours out of it, and while Doing so, I disassembled my Schumacher charger and removed the 40mm Muffin fan and replaced it with a 60MM fan of the same current reading. I believe the air intake holes were insufficient for the loud annoying 6.3 CFM 40 MM fan so I drilled a bunch more for the higher 17.1 CFM fan.
This fan comes with little adaptor cables with resistors in it to lower the speed, noise and current. One lowers it to 13.83CFM, the other down to 9.83 cfm. The fan also works with both resistor cables in series. Basically I have to put my ear within 12 inches of the 9.83 CFM to be able to hear it.
I did not install any resistor cables on the Schumacher, yet. I can now just barely hear it with my cabinet door closed. A huge improvement in sound. I wonder if there is such a thing as too much cooling, and if it would be better to lower the fan's speed to bring it closer to the CFM rating of what it left the factory with. Any input on this?
The Northstar 27 continues to crank my engine extremely quickly. I like the fact that this battery can be cycled and also has more CCA than an equal size flooded starting battery would have. My bragging rights AGM, is impressive.
The SW regional guy from Crown Battery called me back today, said he was going to ensure the battery distributor received the correct literature for what they were relabelling. He said they still make the Deep cycle group 31, in addition to the marine version. Was not sure why it was not on the website but that it should be.
He asked me what I wound up with, and I told him that I have one of their competitor's.
I got the USBattery group 31.
It weighed 65 lbs on their bathroom scale and 67.3 lbs on the scale I brought with me. It was reading 12.77 on the shelf.
I am going to try and charge it more and take baseline SG readings while it is easy to do so
Now, to clean and repaint my battery tray before installation.
I was seeking, from that northstar PDF, the initial charging current as it relates to battery capacity. Most of what my concerns in this entire thread is being able to meet the minimum recommended bulk current with my main recharging source, which is solar.
I was not confused over the recommended voltages.
As far as Plumbing goes, No thanks. I prefer making wood shavings or dust and having clients ohh and ahh at my artistry.
No worries Mena, better to know than to have nightly dreams where my batteries keep failing and My hydrometer is stalking me, trying to kill me. Besides, I am kind of a night owl, though fighting it.
If I didn't do the load test overnight, and weigh the SOB today, I might never have called them to protest, or might have let their continuous repeating of " a Marine battery is a deep cycle battery" actually hold weight. Calling to protest within 24 hours gives my protest more weight and I hope to have a 67 LB Trojan or US battery G 31 by this time tomorrow.