I once considered the 25000 Ctek, but was turned off that with the battery temp sensor included in cable clamps, it was not designed to be hardwired, and I did not want to void the warranty by doing so, nor did i want alligator clamps permanently attached to a battery.
The PD9260-14.8 would be my automatic converter of choice, if I wanted a converter. At least It can be forced to seek 14.8v at the touch of a button, and hold it for 4 hours.
Place it close to the batteries. Nobody says you have to put a new converter in the same location as the near useless Wfco.
It's quite possible I'm crazy and the converter was never charging the battery at high amps but I'm fairly sure it was.
The battery when new could accept higher amps at lower voltage. When they age it takes less amps to raise voltage.
Fatten your copper, and remove and make pristine the frame grounds.
I have my small Sunon 40MM 0.03 amp fan blowing into the small freezer portion of my 1.8 cubic foot Vitrifrigo c51is compressor fridge.
I removed the freezer door on day one of ownership. Have not bothered with other fan orientations/locations. I put a half gallon of warm tomato juice(~80f) in my fridge yesterday at 2:30 pm.
At 8:30 pm it was cold enough to hurt my teeth.
My condenser is also well ventilated with no chance of recycling preheated air. The NOctua NF-f12 fan sucks coolest possible filtered ambient air from below, pushes it once through condenser, across compressor and compressor controller and out of the cabinet, where a louvered vent allow its exit from vehicle, or the adjacent (electrical) cabinet which has an 80MM fan sucking air out too. I've found I keep the louvered vent mostly closed and let the 80Mm fan suck some air through condenser and across compressor, even when compressor is not running.
I could speed up the compressor rpm from the minimum 2000 rpm as well to further improve ability to remove heat faster. My fridge came with a 270ohm resistor to speed rpms to 2500, but I have no need of it, 99% of the time. My duty cycle rarely exceeds 20 minutes per hour. Usually much less.
But I am a bit of a potentiometer nutjob and might add one anyway for when warm beer has to be made cold even faster.
This is the 0.03 amp, 6.3 cfm, 40Mm fan I employ in my small fridge. If I had a larger absorption fridge I would use the Noctua NF-f12 at 0.05 amps mounted to fins blowing against/ across them.
I would not be using just any computer fan on a fridge interior, but one with a low amp draw and relatively low CFM rating. No need to add a lot of heat load to the cooling unit.
Larger slow fans are more efficient than smaller faster. I went with 40MM as my fridge is tiny and the sunon linked above, at 0.03 amps, was the lowest amp draw I could find, and 6.3 CFM is more than enough inside a 1.8 cubic foot fridge.
The arctic F12 fan consumes 0.24 amps at 12v and moves 74 CFM.
I can say my 6.7 cfm 40MM Sunon fan is very effective in a 1.8 cubic foot fridge and consumes only 0.03amps
Part of those amps gets turned to heat which the fridge must then remove.
I'd seek the lowest amp draw fan one can find for interior fridge use.
The Noctua NF-f12 is 120MM consumes only 0.05 amps @12v, for ~53 CFM
That is the fan on my condenser. 7 year warranty, Been on there for 4 years now.
Observation and comment:
No interior fan is going to make a fridge cooler.
Well, shades of grey. If the goal is to cool everything down faster and keep internal temps more even, then the internal fan is making the overall fridge interior colder, faster. Especially if a compressor fridge which work much faster than absorption.
We had 100F ambients here yesterday. I was emptying ice trays into a ziplock, and refilling them, every 45 minutes and keeping sub 38f box temps. I love my danfoss powered compressor fridge.
I could improve insulation on door for further increase in performance, but it is not required.
Ran across this product:
Must not click place order.....
My dark grey fiberglass gelcoat was badly cracked, 15 years ago.
Been painted white ever since.
I'd only worry if the gel coat was not sanded or was contaminated before paint was slapped on. Even then it would take many years before the paint started flaking off.
Also if the paint was not allowed to dry enough before another coat was slapped on the paint will be soft, but even then it would take some effort to remove it.
Of course the PO could have used paint unsuitable for the task. Use a marine enamel like interlux if one is feeling rich, or rustoleum 'topside' if feeling more frugal.
Take some green high adhesion 3m concrete masking tape and put it on the paint, work it in with a fingernail, and rip it off. Did it take any paint with it? If so, bargaining chip, but not death knell. Indicative only of whether painter properly prepped gel coat or not.
My bluesky sb2512i clicks, but only in the morning when the panels can start putting out more voltage than battery voltage. I rarely hear more than the one click in the evening as its job is ended for the day.
Because of the automatic mindset prevalent today.
My solar controller can have a charge efficiency setpoint automatic or fixed, but other charging sources seem to like to make it choose 99% on automatic.
I set it to a fixed 92% and when amps taper to 0.4 for a 90AH AGM, the AH counter is usually down to 0 from full, or relatively close.
Still really do not trust it. I always look at amps at absorption voltage, then raise an eyebrow at the AH from full figure my battery monitor is displaying.
I'd recommend securing that battery somehow so it cannot tip over and redoing all the ring terminals.
Granted the circumstances where the battery would tip over, the battery tipping over might be the last of one's worries, but it could be an acid loaded extra piece of shrapnel in a hand grenade.
Ring terminals can get ugly quickly especially in the presence of battery charging fumes
You ever going to cycle it on purpose?
I think the biggest East penn Deka Intimidator or rebadged intimidator you can shoehorn in would be good. these are relabelled by some autoparts stores and by Sams club and Costco.
If you really wanted high CCA ratings, Northstar And Odyssey. these also have very low self discharge as does lifeline who do make dedicated starting batteries, or at least they market them
Batteries PLus sells NorthStar as X2Power. Nationwide, 4 year free replacement warranty. Not cheap.
Don't think Sears still has their deal with Enersys regarding the odyssey/DH Platinum. Don't think sears will be around in 4 years.
My Northstar-27 needed an initial deep cycle and high amp recharge before it would rest over 13v. Still rests at 13.06v Performing well in double duty as house and engine battery, but recharged very well too. I am around 400 deep cycles and closing in on the end of my third year with it. No 'just as new' claim from me, but still performing very well. I'm impressed with it so far.
A while back I was looking to purchase some of that 3 wire ribbon cable to splice in the middle of the 6 foot 5 inch cable as I need about 9.5 feet from prospective HES location and display location.
Its part of the reason I tested mine, put it back in the box, and mostly forgot about it.
Was kind of hoping something would show up, but I do have some cat5 cable to sacrifice.
I do wonder about interference, since mine will be primarily for when engine is running, and if some ferrites/ twisting the cables would be beneficial to help prevent incorrect readings.
Hoping to run the cable once, not find it getting interference/ giving wacky readings, and then trying to remedy.
What would be ideal from a RF factor? twisted pairs ferrites and a sheathed shielded cable?
These are sweet.
One thing in their instruction sheet is that they say each HES is calibrated to its display, so if buying more than one make sure to keep them together and not mix one HES with the other display.
I found the voltmeter on mine being 0.2v off, but the amps were close enough, and I do not plan on on allowing it to display voltage anyway.
There is only a 0.2a resolution. Not really a factor for me but could be for someone else.
My RV is bristling with custom fabricated Hail cannons!
I jump around inside on my modified pogo stick wearing my special tin foil coated armadillo hat, pressing a flatulent red button over and over whilst blasting Wagner's flight of the Valkyries over and over again at maximum volume.
It is 100% effective!!!!, but only if If play some Mussorgsky when the storm approaches and when I prime and load the cannons with my special ingredients.
I've never suffered any hail damage since I started doing so.
And fun to boot!
This reads like a case of the charging source, deciding that 13.6v target voltage was fine and dandy as well as falling into the dreaded "just fine" category.
So .... the 2 hours of generator run time did little.
Next morning when battery was flat as could be, the whizz bang charging source saw the extremely low battery voltage, and only then, sought to achieve 14.x volts at its maximum output, and then the battery obviously charged to some well undercharged degree.
A very possible case of 'automatic' being too dumb to do the job its marketers and purveyors claimed it could do.
A charging source seeking 13.6v might only have to produce 12 amps to bring a ~65% charged, 100Ah partially sulfated flooded battery to 13.6v and hold it there while amps taper and very little is actually done. But if this same charging source were trying to bring the battery to 14.4v, 35 amps might be required and 66% more would be accomplished initially, before amps inevitable started to taper once 14.4v was approached at the charging source output terminals.
Can you control what battery voltage is sought when you are running the generator?
Not without a charging source which can be instructed to do so. Otherwise you HOPE it chooses to do so, but only if you know to hope for the near impossible in the first place.
BUT, It won't, and you get to waste fuel, sniff fumes and make noise for the privilege of an automatic charging source deciding what is right when it is just Soo wrong. It might even have a soothing green light just to let you know it is smarter than you..
Forcing a charging source to seek 14.4v or higher on a depleted battery at maximum output, is a wonderful thing, especially when a generator is involved and there is also a time limit.
Relying on it to do this automatically is practically insanity at its finest. Unless ignorance is involved.
So ignorance is temporarily acceptable until failure, insanity is not, unless you believe insane ignorance is bliss, then more power to you, you will need it, unless of course you have lots of money to throw at the problem, then you can brag about just how insanely ignorant you are and people will be in awe.
Don't forget to revel in their awe, either way.
This is an attempted humorous poke at human nature, not the Original poster.
The problem lies in your charger and its charging circuit to the battery, and your battery is likely sulfated too because of the charger and the too thin cabling between it and the battery.
Go kick your RV manufacturer in the balls, and get a new charging source which can be forced to seek 14.4v or higher whenever you fire up the generator to charge the battery, or you can repeat your unpleasant experience.
But but but, isn't ethanol supposed to reduce tailpipe emissions?
And not just reduce dependence on foriegn oil?
Heck I can't tell if I am being sarcastic or not.
Mex, what have you done to me?
Where is that seratonin button.
Opps forgot, I use a bourns 10 turn potentiometer for better precision.
Ahhhhhhhh there we go.
While the fridge might only draw 80 watts after the compressor is running, it mght very well require a 1200 watt inverter to handle the start up surge of the compressor.
I'd test the warm fridge on your proposed inverter before expending any more effort wiring it up.
And short and fat cabling is fairly mandatory when wiring an inverter to a battery, even if 10awg can safely pass the 80 watts it might consume after the start up surge