How well the LED bulb works is dependent on how, or IF, it uses the reflector, which was originally designed for the Filament light source.
My best T10 LED's have been Phillips in the 4000K color. They don't even bother trying to use the reflector
These are not the brightest T10 LED I've tried, but the color is the best and they are the most efficient. For only one 5050 SMD firing forward, I am impressed.
Phillips bulbs are certainly more pricey. The newest offerings are unique in how they intend to use the reflector, and Only Phillips has LED bulbs that are approved to be used in Some vehicles external safety lighting, but not all.
What is a 'pedestal queen?'
Power pedestal, not reliant on battery power, and where any dual purpose battery is good enough and fast recharges are not a concern.
I just can't see the point in placing a fuse in the middle of a wire, half way between the battery and power distribution center, and covering it with foam where it passes through the body.
Running a new cable from battery to power distribution fuse block seemed the only solution unless I wanted to rip apart cabinets, unravel miles of electrical tape and remove split loom tubing just to find the open circuit.
I think any ABYC inspector would have a field day in a mass produced RV.
My neighbor has a Class C, and 80% of the time, when on an outing, it is a pedestal queen. I do not recall the brand of RV but it is a 2010 Ford chassis.
Yesterday he asks me about his house batteries which "don't take a charge'
I have a quick gander, and they are 5+ year old paralleled group 27s marine batteries. All the battery connections are crusty green and white, Open ended ring terminals with the nylon insulation.
Not having any tools on me, I recommended he just get new batteries, as it was unlikely they had much usable capacity left, and he has an upcoming trip very soon, where he will not have a pedestal.
I recommended he take photos of the wires, Zip tie them together before removing the batteries, label them, and make sure to reconnect them in the same manner, as he wanted to replace them himself. Also to wire brush all the corrosion off, and smear them with grease after reattaching the cables
Anyway he still screwed it up, sparks flew, and now the new WW DC-27s were not charging, and none of the 12v devices are working unless the rig is plugged in. SO I get called. I find the new batteries at 12.56v.
We start the engine, and they are accepting 32 amps at Idle.
We plug in the RV, and 0 amps are making it from Wfco to battery, however the Wfco was powering 12v loads, well the 3.5 amps of lighting I was using as a load.
Disconnect AC power to RV, and no 12v accessories work.
From 12v distribution panel 8 awg cable goes to a small thermal self resetting circuit breaker, and from the same tab on the CB (current not going through the CB itself), the 8awg then goes to a Square Relay which I believe is the battery disconnect whose rocker switch is by the main door.
13.7V is getting to the relay when plugged in, but nothing coming out. No voltage on the other side of the relay.
So I place a jumper across the big terminals on the relay. Nada, but then the remote switch by the door does cause the relay to clunk when moved with jumper in place, but still no connection to house batteries.
So I follow the cable from this black box to where it disappears into a wiring loom and goes through the floor and there is a bunch of expando foam.
Underneath these looms reappear, and I probe here and do get battery voltage, all the way upto the floor/ foam.
I figure when he reverse polarity'd it, a fuse blew somewhere, but damned if I could find it. It was likely somewhere in the foam inside some split loom tubing, and invisible..
Anyway I had some 8awg tinned marine wire, and an 8 awg maxi fuse holder on hand. I fuse at the batteries, punch a hole through the expando foam and force the new 8awg upto the circuit breaker, basically using it as a junction. Now all the 12v loads work, and the Wfco is putting 10 amps into the batteries, and I start buttoning everything up.
Then the Wfco fan starts pulsing on and off, then just stops, and No more current to the batteries. It was getting 118Vac on the circuit board. No Voltage on the output.
So I got him to order an iota dls-45 but it will not arrive in time for his outing. I hooked up his transformer based manual Schumacher 2/10 amp charger to the batteries as they were obviously not fully charged. The Schumacher is a POS. 13.17v and 3.12 amps on the 10 amp setting. 0.43 amps on the 2 amp setting.
Anyway, The battery cabling was horrible. I can't believe they just crush open ended nylon crimps over the battery cables. No grease/ spray, protection of any kind. The Crimps looked like they were just crushed flat in a vice, and the nylon/plastic insulation was split and growing green fuzz like a Chia pet.
I can't believe the fuse for the distribution panel would be obscured deep within the foam inside the split loom tubing, several feet from the batteries, but the circuit was open somewhere in this region.
There is obviously an issue with the battery disconnect switch, and It is basically bypassed right now, So I told him he will have to remove the 50 AMP maxifuse I installed at the battery when he comes back.
He also had no Idea that batteries should be kept fully charged. In the past he just plugged in the Rv 24 hours before leaving, was one of those who thought the alternator is the instant magical battery charger and any undercharged battery could just be recharged at any time without ill effect .
Kind of amazing what is allowed to go out the doors. Cheapest parts joined together as cheaply as possible.
Nicely done on the lube job.
40 MM fans come in 10, 15 and 20MM widths.
If/when you fan gets noisy again, and if it will physically fit, thicker fans can move more air for less rpm and noise.
If the fans position in the inverter is vertical, when the inverter is installed, the lube will likely last a good while. I've one bushing fan I relubed 18 months ago and it has been running 24/7 since
There are a stunning array of computer fans available in all sizes. While I'd definitely remove the fan, peel off the sticker and lube the bushing, i would also snap a pic of all the specs on the fan, and try to find its ratings, then find a ball bearing fan of similar specs.
Long time back I replaced the noisy fan in my MSW inverter, with the same exact fan, when i should have researched a bit more and got a better fan.
Some designs can move more air for less noise, and usually these designs have steeper angles on the impeller blades, more scythe like blades as opposed to a straight 45 angle. Also some fans have a smaller hub and more fan blade area allowing them to move more air for less rpm and thus noise.
google 'frozen CPU'
Such a Shame 12v compressor fridges are so expensive.
I know one guy who bought a sub 3 cubic foot dorm fridge to run on his single 27 battery and his 750 watt inverter.
The fridge wouldn't start. So he got a 1000 watt inverter, it wouldn't start.
Got a 1250 watt inverter and this would start the fridge.
He loaded it with beer, went to an event, and the first night was awoken at 3:30 AM by the low voltage alarm of the inverter.
I think he returned the 1200 watt inverter, went back to a cooler and ice and used the dorm fridge in his garage.
The cables Genuinedealz uses are high quality tinned copper conductors. The lugs are tinned copper. They are properly crimped with proper tools and sealed with thick adhesive lined heatshrink.
The Dielectric grease in the lug, while a good idea, is overkill, unless perhaps you plan on boondocking with your wheels buried on the beach and waves slapping your rv at high tide and have your wiring submerged.
I don't believe any claims about wal mart batteries being true deep cycle. A bathroom scale would show they weigh no more than the marine battery of the same size and only a smidge more than the starting battery of the same size.
Deep cycle internals stuffed into standard car jar sizes is a compromise, and even the few 12v jars available that were designed for deep cycle duty, as deep cycle batteries, are compromised, requiring higher absorption voltages applied for longer to shoehorn the amps to reach full charge.
But as most people know nothing about the states of charge of their batteries, they work 'just fine' until they don't at which point they get all flustered and start looking at somewhere to point their fingers. The battery depleter either seeks out a reason for the early demise, or just replaces the battery(s) to repeat the cycle.
The something for nothing crowd will seek to get an abused battery replaced under warranty, when the warranty should apply only to those batteries with manufacturing defects, not those that fail from overdischarge and insufficient recharge and complete owner ignorance about the proper charging requirements of a battery.
Without the ability of a charging source which can do higher voltages and durations these compromised 'deep cycle' batteries are simply doomed when heavily cycled night after night for weeks on end.
My Screwy 31's requirements are a bit ridiculous. If I could not adjust absorption voltage and durations and perform regular EQ charges, this battery would have been launched through the doors at USbattery with a hate note attached on the second month of cycling.
Only by force feeding it at rather ridiculous voltages has it lasted as long as it has, and I can now hear it ticking as the cycles approach 400, water usage has increased and voltages under load have fallen.
A drycamper's needs are quite different from the pedestal crowd. If heavily cycling a battery then most 12v jars are a serious compromise and require special charging treatment. They are the 'Special' battery, when 'special' is a politically correct term used not to offend.
The person who drives from pedestal to pedestal and only occasionally camps without hookups might be well served by a 12v dual purpose battery, but those cycling their batteries hard and heavy are wasting their time and money on buying a battery that is so compromised for the task for which it is being employed.
And even the true 12v deep cycles need special treatment when employed in a heavy cycling situation, and arguably, even when not.
I recently had to use a Home Depot tinned copper open end ring terminal on 8 awg tinned marine cable.
After crimping with a hydraulic crimper, I soldered the open end shut, dremelled it smooth, and covered the exposed copper with more solder. I then fed solder into the other end, amazingly without melting the insulation. After cleaning off all the flux, I heat shrinked it.
The wire remained flexible right upto the ring terminal. It was sealed with solder, and then heat shrinked.
I like overkill. But now I own closed end ring terminals and nice thick adhesive lined heatshrink, and might redo the whole dang thing.
Well, I would if it were not for just a 18 amp blower motor.
The JGdarden site linked to 2 posts above updates their site at least every two months. I've no idea how accurate it is, and of course the battery on the shelves does not necessarily represent who made the battery 2 months prior, much less two years prior.
I've never had good luck cycling any Wal mart battery, but then again I knew less about properly charging batteries back then. One Wally World marine battery which was cycled shallowly for a year then got transferred to engine starting duties only, lasted 7 years, but the batteries I cycled shorted cells quickly.
I am not a 'kill it before the warranty expires' type of person. I don't want anything for nothing. I'll pay for what I believe is a better built battery, and make sure I can recharge it properly. The battery manufacturer recommendations are a good starting point.
Try and get a definitive answer from Johnson Controls as to recommended initial bulk current and Absorption voltage or float voltage, just don't hold your breath waiting for a response.
I might buy a Wally world starting battery, but am unlikely to buy their batteries which will be cycled unless they have a good weight to them.
But I try not to enter Wally worlds in the first place. Too many things in this world ignite the fires of my considerable misanthropic tendencies, and Walmart has that ability in excess.
Here is the part I used:
If asking about the original voltage limiter:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VRC601
My 7 dollar solid state solution is now in place, and my gauges no longer swing wildly for no discernable reason.
I mounted it so I can still fairly easily access the adjustment screw. It is at 5.12 volts now, and the gauges read a smidge lower than what was normal, on level ground with steady battery voltage, with no radio interference, or any other gauge swinging factors.
Red incandescent bulbs found their way into the cluster, and the green turn signal indicator and the blue high beam indicator got colored LEDS which are much brighter and richer in color than before. I went Incandescent on the background lighting as LEDS do not properly work with the stock dimmer, and I am not wiring up a PWM dimmer just to save ~1.25 amps that the 194s consume.
I'm sticking with A flooded battery for cycling, as the AGM's seem to require high currents which my Solar cannot meet, and solar is my primary recharging source, albeit the lowest and slowest I have.
I reduced overall capacity bown from two 27's, so my 200 watts of solar could at least approach the 10% rate at noon after march 21 before sept21, so I'll not be increasing capacity either with the T-1275.
Investment wise, this 31 already has outperformed 2 sets of Crowns, but they were compromised by lack of watering due to inconvenient location, and Crown recommends higher charge rates of 12 to 18% last I looked, so my solar was even less well matched on those.
It had been a while since I did a Hydrodipping, and the one low cell and wide disparity was certainly a surprise. I had done some brief 16v MW sessions just watching the amps and would just stop the EQ a bit prematurely.
It would be nice to not have to have the battery at 15.3v all afternoon long while SG slowly creeps toward the maximum. I figure 15.3v is abusive to my lighting and fans.
While the SG readings indicate the end of life ticking, I am not really Noticing this voltage wise under load. Sure it is lower than new, and seems to drop to the 12.2v fairly quickly before rallying and maintaining 12.2 while I hammer it with loads similar to the loads for the 20 hour rate.
Anyway, it has been neat beating up on this battery and concentrating more on getting SG near max as often as possible. It has proven that green flashing lights are liars, each battery is a bit different, and achieving full charge is not just to be trusted to Automatic underchargers or universal converter algorithms. It shows how important Adjustable voltage setpoints are in getting the most from a heavily cycled battery.
And it ain't dead yet.
I'll be keeping an eye on that weak sister cell. It is the easiest to dip, being closest to the (-) terminal
It Still holds the Meanwell at 41 amps for a while when I start it first thing in the morning. 41 amps certainly is not the magical instant absorption voltage current. Constant current still happens nice and flat before the tapering begins. Instant absorption voltage current is in the 70 amp range still.
My 5 day 13.6v experiment was for curiosity. Amps had tapered very low the last 3 says in the 0.3a range. It was for grins, and because the MW allow it, that I bumped it to 14.7v on day 5, which revealed the battery was not fully charged after 5 days at 13.6v. So low and slow, on this battery anyway, is not going to do the job. That was my point.
This battery is getting the Cheapowatt treatment. Pushed until failure for the sake of science. If/when it fails, I still have my AGM battery which can perform both engine start and house duty. But I can also just plug in and not cycle any battery at all and keep them at 13.4 forever, and learn nothing.
I will likely see where I can obtain a trojan 31 for when the time comes, and have a new battery tray fabbed up to replace the one holding the screwy 31. A half inch lower tray would be a good thing too.
BTW, my battery monitor is set to self adjust the charge efficiency factor, and it claims 98%.
Like I believe that. I do have an amp hour counter on the meanwell output, but I usually have loads running when recharging.
I get the impression that you hope for it to roll over and short out a cell.
Did those paisley ties at US battery really hurt your feelings so Badly?
I'm gonna cycle it till it shorts a cell or can't meet my overnight needs.
Tick tick tick.
Is that ticking my battery, or the countdown to a frothy paisley tie rant?
Odyssey's spec sheet says they require 40 amps per 100AH of battery when deeply cycled. I spoke with An Odyssey tech for a whole about a group 31 on 200 watts of solar, and he recommended against it as it is too little of a bulk current for a deeply cycled battery.
I treat my Northstar AGM as if it were an odyssey. When it gets 41 amps from the meanwell after a 50%, it has much more gusto when cranking my engine compared to a solar recharge from 75 to 100% cycle.
I'll not cycle my Northstar unless I have alternator or Meanwell to feed it a high rate the next day.
I really hope to hear back from Powermax soon. It has been back there for several days. Errin said if they could not get 100 amps from it they'd reimburse shipping and send out a tested 100 amp adjustable model.
I want to do another 10 amp for 10 hour load test on those NS 31's and then give them 100 amps constant current to 14.7v and hold 14.7 until they require less than 1 amp again.
My NS holds 13.06V weeks after charging source is removed. I want those new 31's to do the same.
The project vehicle for the 31's has changed, and project is in limbo until new project vehicle arrives.
@ ~ 370 cycles on screwy 31.
About 20 more cycles Since last report a month ago.
One morning, at 55 AH from full I turned the MeanWell to 13.6v, Lowered solar max voltage to 13.6 and let it go, for 5 days. Not cycled 1 amp hour.
On day six, I turned MeanWell upto 14.7v, and took 9 amps to get there, and 2 hours later it finally tapered down to 1.7amps. I didn't check SG.
Then the cycling started up again. 35 to 55 AH each night.
Last night at 1AM, 46AH from full. 11.9v under a 4.8 amp load. Rebounded to nearly 12.1v when load was reduced to 0.7a.
Not too bad considering it has been cooler.
Today Solar and MeanWell held 14.9v for 4 hours.
1.225, 1.265, 1.275
Switch loads to AGM, bump screwy 31 to 16V measured at battery terminals via the MeanWell. 6.19 Amps required to reach and attain 16v.
Weak cell did not respond at all for 25 minutes, then it jumped to 1.250 at minute 30
2.5 hours later
1.275, 1.280, 1.295
Amps had tapered to 5.59, and had started rising again by hour 3 hours to 5.83 when I terminated EQ cycle.
Electrolyte level is a little less than half way between tops of plates and bottom of hanging arms. Electrolyte kind of cloudy on weak sister cell, but not grey and no visible particles despite vigorous bulb squeezes down one side of cell and bulb filling from the other side.
Now where's my Whip? Time to start racking up the cycles.
The "100 amp" PowerMax Adjustable voltage model stopped at 75 amps on a pair of NorthStar AGM's group 31's(100 AH each) in parallel via 00 gauge cable. They had a 10 amp load on them for 10 hours previous to starting charge cycle. 1 hour after load removal voltage had rebounded to 12.19v. NS says 50% is 12.11v.
Bumped Powermax to 14.7v unloaded, and disconnected PM from 116Vac.
Attached "100 amp" PM to parallel AGM's via 0 gauge cable. 3 feet one way. Plug in Powermax. Flip switch. 76.2 amps. 50 minutes later as battery voltage nears 14.7v, then amps begin tapering. Nearly 12 hours later, amps required to hold 14.7v finally tapered to 0.95a. Terminate charge.
Somebody.....tried to tell me that these 2 agms couldn't handle more than 75 amps when depleted to 50%. Effing BS! If the batteries were the limiting factor, amps would have tapered immediately, not 50 minutes later.
24 hours later batteries read 13.09v
10 days later batteries read 13.00.
Powermax returned to Bradenton Florida with Note attached after talking with proprietor.
No word back yet. This better be made right.
The unit was originally shipped from Bradenton. On the side of the shipping box, there was a check mark next to the PM3-75.
On my old laptop, powering the original power brick with a msw inverter did allow it to charge, but the battery would run down much faster compared to grid powering it, and the laptop would slow down to a crawl after the battery indicated full charge and the MSW was still powering the original power brick.
MSW also ruined a sears craftsman cordless drill battery charger.
MSW might be fine for many things, but it hurts when it is not.
Please note that the MW switching power supplies vary in their abilities, and internal protections.
I did sacrifice a cheapowatt in the name of science. cheapowatt thread
In short, I wanted maximum amps until the battery reached Absorption voltages. The cheapowatt, rated at 350 watts would output much more than this, and overheat, as it has no internal protections against overload. To get maximum amps I had to keep twiddling the voltage trim pot to just below the area where it buzzed. When I got sick of this I just set it to 14.9v, hooked it to my depleted battery, and let it buzz away. 17 minutes later smoke and flames. A fun 23$ experiment, and it lead to acquisition of my Meanwell rsp-500-15 whose performance I am extremely satisfied with.
Do note that some of the Meanwells shut down on current overload, while others do constant current limiting on overload. You want constant current limiting for battery charging. The Meanwells have good data sheets on each model they sell, so look for this feature if you choose this route.
I've yet to bother with a timer installed on my MW. If I fear forgetting about it, I just set the voltage to 13.6v rather than 14.7 or 14.9. If I need full output and quickest possible battery charging times then 14.9v it is.
I've noticed after days of 13.6v on my flooded battery, that cranking it upto 14.7+ is still needed for an hour or 2 to max out the SG, on my screwy 31. When the SG is not maxed out, I can easily notice the lower voltages during discharge. So, at least with my screwy 31, I am not in the 13.6v will eventually fully charge the battery camp. It needs rather extreme voltages applied to fully charge and perform properly.
It really tanks in performance quickly if not brought to 1.275+ SG regularly