Tarzan thumbs on fartsmone brevity.
Some agm say no more than 30% charge rate
Some other agm say no less than 20 %
My northstar 90 ah agm just did 30 deep cycles for well over 400 deep cycles total. Low and slow solar only recharging only 30 times.. Took 5.5 hours after 200 watts of solar achieved 14.46v before amps tapered to 0.4. Is also starting battery. Cranked engine slower. Noticably degraded performance.
Pulled 62ah from it in 5 hours. 11.8v under the 6.8 amp load when i plugged in.
Apply 65 amps. 27 minutes later 14.7v attained. Hold absorption voltage for 3 hours. Turn down to 13.6v, goto bed.
Next day violent engine cranking ability returned. Next night voltage held higher under load.
not.sure.what telley com agms want, but my northstar agm gobbles high amps and is better for it.
It loves high amps applied from 50% or less. That and 100% recharges are blowing my mind in capacity retainment in my usage.
I think i am done with flooded batteries. I want a battery which can happily gobble a 65+ % charge rates like a princess in a shoestore but perform like a kinky and grateful Polish thick ankled farm girl.
I thought I read VR-1 was no longer able to be sold in California. Must have the good stuff in it.
Lots of muscle car guys swear by the stuff. Valvoline VOA's never look impressive but their UOA's show the oil holds up well.
Virgin oil analysis can miss a lot of the secret sauce.
Not sure what the Mopar external V regulator setpoint is.
at 2K rpm which is what my van runs at ~65mph, It has no issues making 70+ amps and no issues with temperature. It is Idle speed where the issues arise both from heat, and too few rpm to make enough juice to maintain voltage.
Wait for MexWanderer to chime in regarding the mopar VR in that Kit.
If you have wiring skills you can rig up most any external VR that can handle 8 amps of field current.
The 'trick the ecm' unit is just a 10Ohm resistor. I spent over 30$ for this 3 dollar part, so learn from my waste of money.
You do not have to rig up an external potentiometer on the transpo540HD like I did, YOu can just adjust it to 14.4v and call it macaroni.
Dodge vans started putting the VR in the engine computer in 1988 for the 318 and 89 for the 360 engine.
Voltage seen will be influenced by electrical load on the system and what the ECM's VR allows.
Running the absorption fridge on DC, along with blower motor on high, at idle, is simply more than the alternator can make even fully fielded.
When my alternator was failing, with what mex said was a shorted stator, it was able to produce less and less, requiring more rpm to maintain voltages above 13.0v.
Failure of the VR in the ECM either requires a new ECM, or for one to bypass it and wire up an external VR.
The 10 ohm 50 watt resistor needs to go in between former field wire terminal connector to alternator to keep check engine light off.
I basically used the above link, but instead of using the Mopar VR, I used the Transpo540HD for a Ford, which had the internal potentiometer to adjust voltage. I just modified the VR to accept wires for a remotely mounted VR.
This superior Modification was possible for me due to Mex's knowledge and helpful nature.
Now if the alternator can not raise battery voltage to above 13.7v ever, even at higher rpms then I would say the Alternator or VR is failed/failing, but at idle when maxed out and the voltage can't be held above 13.7v, that is to be expected simply because of lack of RPM.
If the loads are higher than what the Alternator can produce, voltage is going to fall no matter what the VR is asking for.
I also have a K type thermocouple epoxied to the additionsl heatsink epoxied to my transpo VR. At Idle with a big load the VR temperature also climbs as the field current maxes out trying to maintain the voltage I have chosen. More RPM has VR temperatures decline again, and My VR is inside my Van, not in engine compartment and engine heat or underhood airflow are not influencing variables.
With a full battery and minimum loads like no blower motor or headlamps, 15.3.
Depleted battery blower motor on high( 18 amps) and headlamps (~15 amps) I'd be lucky if it would raise above 13.
The alternator can only make so much juice, even fully fielded. Idle speed on mine is 550 rpms. It just cant make very much at that rpm.
My VR mod was because 13.7v when the battery was still depleted is way too low, and 14.9v when it is full is way too high.
Generally I set it to 14.4 and only lower it when I know battery is full.
I have an 89 b250.
The voltage range on mine was 13.7 to 14.9v, and it would choose either with no regards to logic.
Idle speed output on mine is fairly pathetic at elss than 50 amps total when hot.
I bypassed the ECM's VR and added an adjustable external VR with a dashboard mounted potentiometer to choose any target voltage between 13.2 and 15.3.
Detais available here:
But hot idle speed maximum output is not impressive. Not the fault of the VR but lack of rpm.
I'd use the same 20w-50 you use in your 454.
But since I am spending your money, perhaps mobil1 5w-50.
Oil is a lot more than just its viscosity. ZDDP levels, Boron, Moly, HTHS viscosity, resistance to shearing, fuel dilution, oxidation, are all factors avidly discussed on Bitog.
Also the range of viscosity to meet a -30 or -40 specification is quite wide.
I don't require synthetic or a 0winter in southern california, oil but use Mobil1 0w-40. It requires more group4 PAO and group5 ester oils to meet the 0w rating, also meaning less viscosity index improvers and pour point depressants.
Unless of course, oil is oil in one's mind. Then just go seek out some citystar.
There are some small solar powered vents, but their air movement is quite small.
I added a 4 inch Nicro solar vent in 2001. By 2003 the motor was ticking loudly. more recently I removed the motor, gutted as much of the airflow restrictions as possible, and force feed it with 2 120Mm computer fans, inline and counter rotating.
I'd not pursue this route again if I had to do it over.
The batches of 2:1 epoxy I have mixed less than perfectly seem a bit softer, and takes longer to get to that decreased hardness. Not sure if the adhesion is markedly less when mixed incorrectly, but I suspect it has to be to some degree, and I do not know how tolerant 1:1 epoxy is in terms of improper ratio.
My arctic silver epoxy has not failed anywhere I have used it
I was reluctant to get a digital scale and start measuring my regular epoxy this way, but the precision is so much better than trying to estimate the meniscus, and or how much volume of bubbles got trapped in the resin when pouring the hardener on top.
BTW, my digital scale is good for 300 grams 0.01 resolution and is smaller than my fartsmone. A bit thicker though. Was 13$, making my regrets of not getting one sooner much greater.
Could use 500 gram capacity though on occasion.
Epoxy ratios need to be mixed precisely. squeezing out two equal sizeblobs from the hypodermics is hardly precise or accurate, But my heatsinks are still holding on to my MEanwell. Nice to know its bond strength is as high or higher than other epoxies
I've been mixing epoxy using a digital scale. 100:45 or 100:43, down the hundredth of a gram, rather than volume.
Should have gotten the digital scale much much, Much sooner.
Mixing a 2:1 epoxy by volume, wel the scale revealed I was Always light on the hardener, sometimes outside the acceptable window.
I've gotten used to not having a mirror on my windshield.
2006, thanksgiving's friday. I was driving south on Mex1, at the first Tope south of Maneadero, My fuel pump quit, on the tope.
I drove to the side of the road with a can of fuel injector cleaner sprayed down the TB.
12 hours later I was on my Way again, new fuel pump from Ensenada, thanks to a local farmer/mechanic who had the tools and experience to drop the fuel tank, But we were both cursing up a storm in the dirt under the van trying to get the fuel lines back on with little access.
Still have same Fuel pump.
Hope your trip north goes smooth Mex, Sorry to hear it's necessary
Might want to make the sign as vandal proof as you can make it too. Skaters have been known to travel with flatbars and BHF's to lift off anti skateboarder obstacles.
They'd laugh at 4 concrete screws.
My voltage regulator in my engine computer would allow 14.9v, but the range it allowed was 13.7 to 14.9v
14.9 being too high and often it would choose 13.7 when battery was still far from fully charged had me bypass this voltage regulator and add an adjustable one with potentiometer on dashboard next to voltmeters whose voltage sense lines are right on battery terminals.
So I choose, and generally leave it at 14.4v until I know battery is fully charged or battery is above 87f, then I lower it
I understand the gauge reading different is a red flag to you. I'd double check the gauge. and the connections on back of alternator and firewall grounds.
And get a can of Caig Deoxit d5 spray for any connectors you open. no other electrical contact cleaner comes close. The presence of dielectric grease does not mean the conducting surfaces are 'just fine', as so many people seem to think.
Is the heating coil the only large Load you can put on the DC system?
Pre meanwell days, When I had to trick my schumacher into seeking 14+ volts at max output when solar already had battery voltage over 12.8v, I would load my battery with my headlamps, fog lights, blowermotor on high ect until voltage would drop to mid 12's, then restart charger, then remove loads.
That was about 45 amps of load.
Granted all I had to do was turn a switch to put all these vehicle loads on the house battery.
Now, I don't even have a house battery, though I could drop one in place pretty easily if my capacity requirements decide to increase.
Not sure you can test the full output of an 80 amp PD unless you have that much in loads or batteries that can accept that much, but you should be able to test if it works and the wizard/pendant can control the voltages sought at the push/hold of a button.
Finding adequate loads for depleting a battery/ or loading a power supply/charger should not be difficult, since most times we are trying to find ways to decrease these loads.
The inverter is a great battery depletion tool. 1500 watts HF inverter, run an angle grinder or a drill should be good for 50 amps. A series of 115vac Box fans on high. Finding large loads should not be an issue. Hooking up the heating coil sounds like way more work than using the inverter at 800+ watts.
I am not so sure 16 awg feeding a device requiring a 20 amp service is acceptable.
I make dang sure my 12 and 15 amp power tools are fed with 12 AWG extension cords as short as possible, and I eliminate the extension cords whenever possible.
There are reports of PD converters not giving their full output on Generator power, perhaps they are also susceptible to not making their amperage rating when AC voltage is less than stellar.
My friend has a 100 amp Powermax converter, and it maxed out at 94 amps likely due to being fed with a undersized too long power cord.
Don't shoot for 'just enough' when maxing out a circuit, In my opinion. Voltage drop is not as much of a factor on 115Vac, but I don't let my higher $$ made in USA 12+ amp powertools to receive lesser voltages from poor power cables. Their exact replacements not only are not only too expensive, they are also now made in China.
Ok, 500Ah of 50% depleted AGM will have no issues safely accepting 80 amps charge current.
If these were 500Ah of Lifeline AGM, 80 amps would not even meet the 20% rate recommended when deeply cycled.
Odyssey AGM says 40% minimum charge rate when deeply cycled.
My Northstar AGM walks down in performance with many low and slow solar only recharging, and a high amp recharge from 50% to ~80% and then onto full restores performance, but more than 10 low and slow solar recharges after depletion to 50% levels might require 2 back to back high amp recharges to restore performance back into the impressive category.
Low and slow recharging can tickle some AGMs to death when deeply cycled, despite the grandpa's 'trickle charge everything' mentality that is alive and well, and incorrect, depending on the specific battery and its usage.
As for testing the PD9280 to see if it works, can you apply 50 amps of load onto the batteries and have the PD running trying to maintain 13.2+ volts?
IE... plug in PD attached to battery, then turn on big inverter powering microwave, see if it can maintain voltage?
Recent battery temperature data on my AGM shows it likes to stay well above ambient temperatures when in constant use, charging or discharging, and hot ambient temperatures have battery temperature much higher than the expected linear relationship.
I think the PD9280 is a bad choice for your smaller Gel batteries.
I do believe it will seek 14.4v initially, at full 80 amp output or nearly so, and once it gets to 14.4v at output terminals, amps will then taper. I thought PD's claimed current limiting was to protect the PD, not the battery.
I am not sure the best ways to plug the pd9280's 20 amp plug into various sources, and think any effort to do so will be in vain on your specific capacity of Gel battery.
Perhaps your PD9280 score, could find a home where its ability can be better realized