The twisted pair wire I tinned is only ~20 AWG, and the small screw tighteners are the small jaws that close down on the wire and require a small jeweler's flat head screwdriver. There is no getting a ring terminal into these.
I did do the double tighten before installing the IPN proremote, but it seems so fragile I was scared of ripping it off the circuit board so did not apply much torque
My solar controller has the little clamps where the stranded wire has to be forked to go around the #8 screw. I H. crimped on ring terminals and modified the business ends so both the 8 awg, 4awg and 10awg would fit correctly. I wish those were made for bigger wire and ring terminals.
My solar controller allows the adjustments my battery requires.
I often think of just using the MeanWell power supply as if it were a solar panel feeding my charge controller, and let this controller run through my Algorithm which I have found makes my battery happiest
Limited to 25 amps though.
My 198 watts of solar is usually more than enough though, but when it is not, i do not trust my available charging sources and think the meanwell as a solar panel might be the way to go, for me.
I really dislike these types of connections.
In my experience the set screw needs to be retightened often, the copper gets all oxidized, the screws can loosen up and the wires fall out.
Yesterday I awoke glanced at my battery monitor and saw +323.6 amps. Not again! Argggghhhhhh!
Just pushing on the twisted pair wire from the shunt returned the amps to 3.4 where they should be, but of course Amps from full was thrown out until I reset the monitor.
After Sundown I removed the IPN Pro Remote, and did not have to unscrew the twisted pair wire coming from the Shunt, it just fell out.
I cut off the brown copper, restripped the wire and tinned it, then filed it down into a square that barely fit into the receptacles. I made it a bit dovetailed so that it cannot easily pull out. I used some Dielectric grease to help seal the connection, then re zeroed the meter after putting both twisted pair wires on the same screw on the Shunt.
The set screw device on the circuit board seems so fragile I understand why I did not really tighten the set screws so much the last time, and this time held the body of it with needle nose pliers while torquing the screws fairly tightly on the tinned wire.
I guess vibrations from my compressor fridge nearby could have contributed to or been the cause of the screws loosening. I did not want to try any loctite to keep them from loosening, and hope these measures I've taken prove to be lasting.
I'm not sure of an easy better way to attach small wires to circuit boards for the end user, but these set screw wire clamps are halfassery at its finest
Salvo, If I trusted plug and play solar setpoints or some converter to allow me to go outside and play, my 160$ battery would be a block of recycled lead right now.
But I'm not sitting there fretting about my SG. I figured out what my battery wants and needs to perform well, and there was nothing plug and play originally, about it.
Now I hammer the battery nightly, let the solar do its thing daily, and every two weeks or so I move a switch, press a few buttons to allow 16v, looks at a few digital displays, float a bobber, and call it macaroni.
8 years, bah, talk cycles, months holding batteries in float mean nothing. If batteries in an RV are lasting 8 years they are obviously not being cycled much, or deeply when they are.
But you have fulfilled the obligatory "why worry about it?" post. This needs to be done every so often while these threads go on and on by those of us interested in top charging and maximum cycle life from what is basically ancient technology.
I spend more time reading about it and typing about it than I actually do on performing the top charge, by a factor of 10 or so.
how often are you replacing water at these 16v charge rates? and what do you guys do when you disconnect the battery's when charging for power?
and how do you guys know when your done with this 16v charge? simply checking the SG?
I've added water 3 times to my screwy31, once when a few weeks old, and twice since then for about 1/3 a gallon total.
I have 3 manual switches, when I want 16v, I switch all the loads to my other battery and crank the solar upto 16v, after a "normal" full charge, meaning it has spent 2+ hours at 14.9v and 1 hr plus at 15.3v and requiring less than 1.9 amps to hold 15.3v.
I've done this enough times that I know it will take right about 6 amps to get it to 16v, and by the time it tapers to around 4.3 amps the SG has maxed out. I've noticed a few times amps at some point start rising again to hold 16v, and then I stop the EQ cycle, as I don't always bust out the hydrometer, even though I should. Mex says the amps rising again to hold 16v is the beginnings of thermal runaway, so the 16v needs to be monitored, or timed, or verified it is required before application.
I basically shoot for 1.285, but when topped up this is lower at just over 1.275, and when the electrolyte level is halfway I've seen as high as 1.290. I've not let the battery get lower than half way.
Us Battery has updated their site. My former bookmarked USbattery charging recommendation page now draws a blank.
2 of 3 of the recommended charging profiles used to state 15.3v was to be held as a "finishing" charge for some amount of time, the only stage for which is was not recommended was for a single stage ferro resonant charging source. I can no longer find this "finishing" charge recommendation, and they now state 15.3v is an 'Equalizing' charge.
No matter, I found their recommendations, although unconventionally high, were not high enough, for my battery.
Me thinks the Paisley tie brigade has been following some threads here and is afraid the 15.3v and 16v requirements is hurting their bottom line and/or being used as weaponry in the Trojan vs USbattery marketing war.
USbattery group 31 clicky
I have the USbattery group 31, and 15.3v 'finishing' charge is not quite enough to keep the SG from falling after 14 cycles, and time is needed at 16v, after a normal full "finishing" charge, before I get it back into the 1.275+ range.
It is obvious the battery holds higher voltages the next couple discharge cycles after it sees this 16v and tapers downward cycle after until the next 16v EQ cycle. Lesser EQ voltages sometimes failed to raise the SG to the max or just extended the duration needed, beyond acceptable, to me. I tried to step it up slowly, 15.5, 15,7, .8 and finally said screw it and gave into Mex's 16v reccomendation and the battery screamed "BINGO!, there it is, finally! Whohoo!!"
Batteries can talk, you just need the desire, and the tools to listen to them, and A former battery engineer in the background to slap you upside the head when you start mouthing the 14.4 is god, internet gospel.
The longer it holds 15.3v per day, the less time needed at 16v to max out the SG. warmer temps help too.
I've also found that the 14.7 ABSV recommendation was too low and caused even more time required at 16v to max out SG.
I now do 14.9 ABSv and 15.3v float finish every single day, via 198 watts of solar after cycling 40 to 50 AH each and every night on a "130 A/H" battery, and after 250 cycles, this is what this particular battery needs. The more alternator amps I can feed it in the beginning of the recharge cycle, the happier the battery. This battery will initially suck up 75 amps from my alternator when 65 amp Hr from full. My vehicles Voltage Regulator also allows 14.9v for a period. USbattery recommendations is a 10% bulk rate, so 13 amps for this particular battery. My solar can just do 13 amps on a good day. But perhaps the reccommendations are irrelevant, certainly their figures are not written in stone, and each battery coming off the same assembly line could very well be different as to what will make the SG get up near max on a regular charge cycle.
I've got the measuring tools, the desire, the daily cycling and the data to back it up. Skoff if you want, no skin off my back, time will tell how many cycles I get. Right now the battery is thumping its chest, and behaving well and I beat the living urine out of it, night after night, every night. The power pedestal is not far away, but I take perverse pleasure in Not using it.
As far as the turnigy/Watts up/GT power inline RC meters go, I think they are inaccurate. Mine gets very warm passing 25 amps, the voltage reads higher on its screen than the battery terminals, by .2 or .3 volts when passing 25 amps when charging at that rate, and I take the AH/WH readings with a pretty big grain of salt. This increased measured voltage obviously throws out A/H and W/h readings. Trust it completely at your own peril. Do not trust it to read loads under 0.2 amps, unless you can verify by other methods that it can.
Mine is incapable of reading loads under 0.2 amps, and is inaccurate under 0.8 amps, verified by 2 DMM's, a fluke and a cen tech, a sears clamp on DC ammeter, and a shunted ammeter. Seems accurate above these draws, but it heats up and reads higher voltage than what exists. Trust if you must, but verify before making claims.
I've been waffling for years now on which charging source to acquire to replace my Schumacher sc2500a. All the standard converters are off the list. The Meanwell is currently(pun intended) at the top of my list. I can use my Solar to achieve the 16v every ~14 cycles my screwy 31 requires. I want something that can hold the ABsv it needs, and the 15.3v 'finishing' charge, and my desire for a float charger which can handle cycling loads I use in the winter, like my mattress heating pad, and can be dialed in for either of my 2 batteries, depending on which battery I decide to cycle, the 31 or the AGM. I'll likely mostly use it for floating at 13.1 or 13.6 and powering my RV overnight come wintertime, but when I want 14.9, or 15.3v I want a charger which can meet it, not just declare that undercharging is safe fine and dandy with some safe lawyer approved algorithm which will sulfate my daily cycled battery into uselessness in a month.
Okay, that is all. The Pacific Ocean beat me up today. Thank you Hurricane Marie for the wonderful awe inspiring, insignificance teaching energy you radiated. I am humbled.
My original OP gauge decided one day to start reading low, causing alarm.
I installed a mechanical gauge, "T" ing the line so the original gauge still works.
Mechanical gauge revealed OP was fine.
Little correlation between the two gauges. The stock gauge takes about 45 second to respond to a steady rpm, the mechanical gauge is nearly instant.
Neat seeing how different weight oils affect PSI, cold, hot, and at different RPM's. I actually determine when my engine is fully warmed up, not by the temp gauge, but by oil pressure.
I know it goes against everything we are taught, but oil pressure is not a more is better thing, it is a long as it is above the minimum spec it is fine thing.
If More OP was better, than we'd all be running 80w140 gear oil in our engines, and it seems many of the 20w50 diehards out there always want their oil pump bypass, in bypass.
UNless of course the engine or the temperatures it is driven in calls for 20w50. And old timers love their thicker oil and nothing can change their minds.
" We are the all powerful converter makers, we know what is the best compromise for every single battery out there!. Cow tow to us"
Whose is first in line?
Getting the batteries to as near full as possible before the next discharge cycle begins is my goal. NO converter out there will come close to meeting what I have determined my battery needs through experimentation and verification with a Hydrometer.
YOu are welcome to believe the marketing mumbo jumbo that comes with any smart charger/converter, and have all the faith you want in it.
Who will be first in line for the magical 5 stage converter. perhaps we can come with a new highly marketable stage and make a bunch of claims how it is the best thing since sliced bread and make millions. Break out the Paisley shirts and fluorescent ties, they've got to earn the contempt of Mex properly!!
Wait, the regular battery chargers have already figured out 8 different stages of battery charging, we better get cracking.
I propose the "tickling" stage, where voltage is yoyoed between 14.4, 13.2, and a slight blast to 15.5 to force absorb, then quasiequlaize, and then float, all in one easy to forget about magical stage for those who cant really give a rats hind quarters how many cycles they can achieve,and get to go home and plug in and forget.
Some of us will seek higher Specific gravity every recharge cycle and not blindly trust any given automatic charger to make any particular battery happiest.
Adjustable absorption voltage is a beautiful thing.
Thats pretty sweet.
What I like about these megawatts is the smaller size than a regular converter. 30 amps is plenty for me, likely too much for my flooded on a regular basis if one believes the 10%manufacturer recommendation which would be 13 amps.
Putting a finger dial voltage pot on them is my hangup. and I fear for the longevity of the included one when adjusted a coule dozen times, as they were obviously not designed for such a task.
I don't quite trust my soldering skills on a circuit board.
Have you checked the voltmeter for accuracy? Does the voltmeter allow calibration?
I got one inexpensive 2 decimal place voltmeter that was 0.2v off(high) and allowed no calibration.
You are looking for eternabond tape.
I would cut 45 ends to the board instead of butting old and new at 90 degrees. I'd use thickened epoxy along the seams along with the screws, and then seal the wood with more layers of unthickened epoxy, then cover with eternabond.
But I like overkill.
Agree on checking rot for deeper than visible. I hate OSB too. Marine plywood is what should have been used. OSB is a dollar saving corner cutting device no matter what claims are believed by some.
Prolly not then, depends on how much you need to offset usage on those 2 to 4 nights. I'm streaming Video from Tahiiti with all fans on, and my battery certainly wishes I had more that 198 watts of solar.
Its hard to have too much. Easy to have too little.
Lifeline batteries PDF recommends high bulk rates, the higher the better but no more than 14.4v unless a "conditioning" cycle is required, for which they have a prescribed procedure.
Get a Solar controller which can do this procedure, and preferably more solar too unless you are regularly using higher amp charging sources when heavily depleted.
I think some affluent boat owners, who buy the dop dollar AGM battery bank, kind of expect it to perform better in the same treatment, and not give em the love they need.
Lots of AGMs say give them gobs of current initially. A big bank will never get the durations of bulk current they want from an underwired slow spinning alternator, and suffer for it where as a flooded bank is more tolerant of lesser bulk charge rates.
I blame the charger, not the battery, without more data proving otherwise.
Boaters suffer extreme voltage drop too from undersized wiring, and usually have larger banks of batteries. Their alternators often get overloaded from hungry AGM's, and of course sailors never run the engines long enough to achieve the required 100% every so often.
The Lifepo4's are being tested a lot by some of the wiser ones right now.
I use an angle grinder with 60 grit flap sander to shape wooden surfboard fins. 11k rpm is just too fast and aggressive for the Lacewood I am currently working with. It is pretty much too aggressive for a harder wood like Ipe too.
A very fine touch is required. Slower speed would give me more control and not heat and expand the wood and I could move the tool slower and more precisely with less gyroscopic forces.
I'll probably get a speed controller for when I have grid power, and do a test on inverter power unless somebody says to not try it on the inverter.
I ask about the inverter because sometimes I like to park next to the Pacific all day long and time my surf sessions, and when I have a project I can work on and accomplish something, I feel less guilty for living the good life.
62 amps at full speed is a bit hard on the battery, I was hoping to get down to 2500 rpm and sub 20 amps.
I have a larger polisher/ grinder, with a built in speed control, but it is 12 amps, and is far too easy to overload the inverter. I fried my first 400 watt MSW inverter powering this tool at very slow speeds. Too much pressure or speed and it would trip the inverter requiring turning it off and back on. It is also too heavy for foiling smaller 4 inch shortboard fins.
This is lacewood fin with a carbon fiber perimeter and base. Epoxy saturated fiberglass.
I want to power a 6 amp 115vac 4.5 inch angle grinder from my 800 watt MSW inverter, but have the ability to significantly slow down the rpms.
I cannot justify a variac of adequate capacity, but there are some router speed controllers rated for 15 amps in the 20$ range which I could justify, as long as it actually can work on a MSW inverter.
I have a 400 watt PSW inverter that cannot handle the angle grinder at full speed, but I wonder if it could, if used through a product like this to slow down the rpm before switching the grinder on:
It would be more convenient to use the 400 watt inverter on the reduced speed grinder if possible.
I've disconnected my 800 watt MSW inverter for space reasons, and the fact that the only thing I need 800 watts for is power tools in the 5 to 6 amp range and have not had to use battery power for them. but might soon
Any danger to the inverter powering one of these speed controllers? I am not so concerned for the angle grinder as it is a HF cheapo and has already paid for itself several times over.
Yes I am force feeding the battery, but USbattery's recommended ABSv and 15.3v finishing charge are pretty high too, I am just doing twice monthly 16v EQ sessions.
Anyway I am not babying the battery, it will last as long as it lasts and I will be monitoring its performance until it cannot meet my overnight needs. Whether that is 400 500 or 600 cycles, who can say.
So far the electrolyte is still clear when taking 5 amps at 16v, and in terms of voltage held under discharge, it is thumping its chest and making Gorilla noises, but whether this is a Silver Back with an Aorta ready to blow is not at this point able to be determined.
I'll keep on top of it and keep this thread updated as the fairly deep cycles accumulate.
I released that 15.0v max hold, so now it spends a portion of each afternoon back at 15.3v after 2.5 hrs at 14.9 ABSV or when amps required to hold 14.9 ABSV drop below 1 amp per 100 amp hours of battery. The overnight voltage holds noticeable higher under load than before with the 15v max.
I gave it about an hours worth of 16v yesterday. Took 7 amps to reach 16v, tapered down to 4.5a, but then started rising again to the mid 5 amp range when I terminated EQ cycle. No dipping.
I had plenty of daylight left, an hour later cranked it back upto 16v. 5.5 amps required to bring it to 16v, and then tapered to 4.4a 20 minutes later when I ended EQ cycle. No dipping as I was parked next to Mother Pacific.
Right now, 3:47 AM 57 amp hours from full, 4.4 amp load, 12.1 volts.
This thing is holding better voltage compared to when it was a month old and allowed only 14.5ABSv for 90 minutes.
I'm now at about 250 cycles on this 31, and I think at this point, it is behaving admirably.
This 31 is being worked hard, the solar is working well to replenish what I use, Eff, my whole electrical system is working pretty dang good. Nice to have grid power available when Cloudy all day for 2 days (+) though.
Alternator contributions when depleted, while short lived, really seem to make the ABS amp threshold come a bunch sooner, and 15.3 float/finish comes earlier, and then overnight voltage raises a proud eyebrow.
Mex, what is going on internally when the amps required to hold 16V taper normally from 6 to about 4, but then start to rise again to 5 or more. I've been ending the EQ when I notice the amps start rising. This is the 4th time I've noticed amps required to hold 16v drop as expected, but then start rising again.
I assumed the longer 16V was held, the less amps would be required to hold 16v, but a few times now I've noticed amps starts rising again, and figure that when this happens I went too long and the battery is heating excessively or doing something undesirable.
Anyway I'm hammering this battery under discharge each and every night, and allowing these unconventionally high voltages last for most of the afternoon each and every day, and the battery is apparently thumping its chest and calling me the wuss.
Considering 8 months ago I wanted to sling this battery violently through the manufacturer's windows with a hate note attached.
I posted that Delta 80mm fan to show the upper end of what they can do. You will hear this fan, if it is running at full speed, from a hundred yards away. It also draws 2.3 amps at max speed, which could be amps flowing into the battery instead. The fan controller internal to the Iota might release the magic blue smoke when trying to power a 2.3 amp fan.
I'd pull the fan that came with the Iota, see if it has specs on it, if not plug in the Make and model # and try and find the specs, then find a fan which beats it by 25%, not 200%.
I am very impressed with all of Noctua's offerings, and wish they would design a multispeed 120MM fan in the 140 to 150 max CFM range.
Their one 120mm fan I put on my fridge moves 53 cfm for 0.05 amps. It replaced a 72cfm fan which draws 0.12 amps, and when pushing air against the condenser resistance, decreased fridge duty cycle, made a lot less noise doing so, and taking less than half the current to do so.
High static pressure ratings can be a more significant figure than CFM
as resistance can really knock down a cfm rating fast.
The super High rpm Delta fans are just insane in most applications. For an 80mm fan to move 123 cfm, it is moving air at some serious velocity, and might even physically stress electronic components in the Iota