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RE: Advice on deep cycle setup?

Thank you
landyacht318 01/21/18 11:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on deep cycle setup?

Mex, if possible, what is involved in converting the CS-144 to external voltage regulation? Figure for a mid 70's early 80's 1 ton chevy.
landyacht318 01/21/18 08:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Alternator to House Battery Charging Test Results UPDATE

Other than the issue of stacking another ring terminal on the Alternator (+) output stud, I am unsure why everybody seems to think they have to pull power from starting battery to charge house battery The OEM alternator circuit was never intended to pass the additional depleted house battery current, and acts as a bottle neck, and the OEM fuse might blow, and this load dump might take out the alternator diodes. No to mention the always undersized and problematic OEM grounds. If all thisthe OEM circuit has to be upgraded, why not bypass the OEM circuit, use a dedicated new shorter fatter less resistive circuit instead? Also if one takes power from the engine battery, there should be a fuse on that circuit, close to the battery, adding even more resistance, and more voltage drop, inhibiting amperage flow into depleted house battery even further. Take power right from the Alternator output stud and bypass the too thin OEM wiring, and the engine battery, the extra fuse, have a likely much shorter circuit as well. Another consideration is the usual frame grounds. How many engines actually have a Stock frame to engine ground? Few is my bet, and then house battery current then has to flow through firewall to engine battery ground then engine battery to engine OEM ground. How much longer is that circuit, compared to running a physically parallel ground cable back to alternator mounting bolt? At the minimum ground the frame to the engine rather that relying on stock grounds for passing house battery current. With a thick pipe to depleted house battery, perhaps the voltage regulator might allow higher voltages for longer, if thermally based perhaps much shorter before it drops to a rather disgusting 13.6ish. Seems to me the whole DC to DC booster or the inverter to converter could be, depending on vehicle platform, as much, or more work as modifying alternator voltage regulation, and tricking engine computer, to seek and hold 14.7v whenever house bank is still less than 100%. My alternator temp data shows as long as vehicle is moving 65mph the alternator case when maxed out will not get above 140f, but idling maxed out and temp skyrockets to 200F quickly. Since i can twist a dial to seek any dang voltage I choose, I can almost always max out my alternator, making this data valid, at least for my engine and underhood airflow idling vs as speed. I'll soon be installing a secondary battery system in a 95 chevy g20 conversion van. I am using the Colehersee 200 amp silver tungsten contact solenoid and 4AWG, back and forth from alternator to house battery. I do not trust frame grounds, an no way will I take power from engine battery unless access to alternator output stud(+) requires hours of labor. I am not sure what the chevy's VR will allow, and for how long, but I am also putting 200 watts of solar on the roof, and they are getting a PD9245 for a single G31 AGM and an easy way to plug in to the grid, when that is an option.
landyacht318 01/20/18 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Alternator to House Battery Charging Test Results UPDATE

Data is always good. Even if the voltage regulation of the alternator is not ideal or even half way there, a long length of 10AWG to house bank is not doing the depleted battery any favors, especially if it is coming off the engine battery instead of the alternator(+) output stud. I do not know how difficult it is to change an internally regulated alternator to an Exernally regulated one, and what ever vehicle considerations there are regarding engine computers, BUt I have been controlling my alternator with an external regulator for two years now. The wires which go between my engine computer and the original field terminals on the alternator, have a 50 watt 10 OHm resistor tricking the engine computer into thinking it is still hooked to the alternator. Getting 14.7v at the depleted house battery terminals anytime the engine is running, is as good as it gets. Watching how many amps flow at 13.6 vs 14.7 reaching battery terminals, is about 2/3rds greater amp flow at 14.7v, at least on my battery. So if your vehicle voltage regulator says 13.6v is just fine and dandy, your are kind of screwed. If one has to do the big inverter on engine battery powering their converter to get that14.4+ volts at the house battery terminals, so be it, but wiring up a big inverter outside the engine compartment with thick copper, running the AC wiring to the converter, and the other considerations, well thick copper and better voltage regulation might not be any more overall work or cost of the sterling DC to DC converters, or the Ctek smartpass and likely a few other similar products. The inverter powering converter to charge house battery could simply be depleting the engine battery too, and likely will be, at idle. The double conversion seems so wasteful.
landyacht318 01/18/18 08:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on deep cycle setup?

Your driving times Will never ever even come close to fully charging a depleted battery. To get an acceptable lifespan from a battery, it needs to be regularly fully charged. You cannot just have it over in the 50% to 80% range and expect hundreds of carefree cycles. Perhaps a few dozen at most before you are like, WTF!!!!!!!?>!?!? If I could not get a battery fully charged by what was available to me to recharge them, i would not Be buying a top dollar AGM, as its price does not make it immune to abuse, and chronic under charging is Abuse. The better alternator might be able to counteract the load of the inverter while driving and cooking, but loads applied with engine off will deplete it and once they get subjected to partial state of charge Cycling, their capacity takes a Nose dive quickly and a prolonged absorption charge is required to try and restore that lost capacity. Not that I am sold on the positive reports trickling in, but Firefly Oasis sells an AGM which uses 'carbon foam' in the lead plates, and is said to not suffer permanent capacity loss from extended times spent undercharged. 482$ for a group 31 115AH 12v battery, and they are now made in India instead of the USA. So prospective buyer.... beware.
landyacht318 01/15/18 10:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Alternator to House Battery Charging Test Results UPDATE

All hail saturation alternator charging! My alternator can only make 50 amps or so at Idle, max out at 120 Amps, and 8.2 of those idling amps are consumed running ignition and fuel pump, 12.2amps at 2K rpm. BUt I can set voltage to anything I dang well please simply twisting a dial on my dash next to my voltmeters, and easily max out the alternator when my battery is well depleted. My Single group 27 Northstar AGM, when newer could easily suck 90+ amps from my alternator, but I had to be up in the 1800+ engine rpm range for this to occur. My latest plug in chargers were able to give 65.5 amps for 24 minutes before the battery terminals reached 14.7v, So instant Absorption voltage on this well depleted battery, is well above 65 amps on this single 4 year old group 27 AGM battery with over 700 Deep cycles on it. NOt sure how long a pair of well depleted 6's would require at 65 amps to reach absorption voltage, But I Bet BFL can find out. My direct alternator to battery feed is about 11 feet of Doubled 6AWG jumper cables, in addition to the stock parallel 6SAE gauge OEM alternator charging circuit. I might not have the RPM's to alway achieve instant absorption voltage, but at highway speed I can. I also have a temp sensor on my Stator exterior. Starting cold engine and Idling for more than 10 to 12 minutes with alternator maxed out, at 65F ambient, will have it exceed 190F. Moving 65MPH and I cannot get it over 135F when maxed out. Voltage regulator temperatures can also be quite high. I added a finned heatsink and a 60MM fan and cannot get it over 118F when asking for everything the alternator can make, about 8 amps of field current is the max I have so far measured. Idling maxing out alternator would make VR temperature skyrocket before I added 60Mm fan. Mex hooked me up with the best way to manually control alternator voltage on my externally regulated alternator. The Transpo 540HD modification is still working awesome for 2 years now. I cut the legs of the voltage pot on the circuit board, and ran wires from it to my 3600 degree 2K ohm bourns pot on my dash. Did you just hear some maniacal laughing?..........That was me. I also have a digital Ammeter on my dashboard. When my AGM cannot accept more than 0.4 amps I lower voltage to 13.6. I will adjust for battery temperature. If it is sunny out and the battery is not full, I set Alternator voltage to 14.6v, then my solar charge controller, set for 14.7v absorption, stays in Bulk, and removes X to 11.5 amps of work from my alternator. All hail manual voltage control!
landyacht318 01/15/18 10:11pm Tech Issues
RE: No Extra Coolant Temperature Port In Toad Engine

I have a one row aluminum radiator, except that tube is 1 1/4 inch wide and the fins are 1.5 inches wide. Maximum brass tube width is 5/8"
landyacht318 01/14/18 10:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Laptop Space Bar Does Not Space On First Attempt

A few weeks back several keys on my Dell laptop quit working, the C and the enter key being two of them. The C key compromised part of my password on startup. I did the compressed air thing, and sprayed some d5 under the keys. There was no change. Strangely it started working properly again not long after. I got a bluetooth keyboard just incase/ when it happens again. My password no longer comprises any of the keys which went out.
landyacht318 01/13/18 06:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Chassis?Starter Grp 31 AGM. CROWN1 AGM?

Northstar NSB-AGM-31 Says proudly made in USA. Full river is made in China. The thin plate pure lead design is supposed to have less resistance, meaning higher CCA and charge acceptance. Lifeline says their gpl-31Xt has 3.1 mOhms Northstar says their NSB-31 has 2.2mOhms http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Internal_Resistance_and_Short_Circut_Current_of_Lifeline_Batteries.pdf HOw quickly that resistance rises when deep cycling is another matter. While thin plate and 'deep cycle' are not usually in the same sentence, all I can say is I have cycled the piss out of my Northstar and it is still an impressive battery. Would a Lifeline AGM be healthier at this point in the same usage? Could certainly be. But, would the Lifeline have enough grunt to start my engine when ~70% depleted at 4 years old and ~700 deep cycles? I don't know. I do know my Northstar can.
landyacht318 01/13/18 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Chassis?Starter Grp 31 AGM. CROWN1 AGM?

One of my issues with having a starter battery, and the house battery, was that I basically never cycled the engine battery. The dedicated starter battery for engine starting seems like 52 or 68 Lbs of dead weight destined to be killed by engine heat and age, rather than actually cycling. While my system allows me to use either battery as house or for engine by turning a few switches, when the screwy31 was compromised enough I removed it from my rig, I had only the Northstar for both duties and all switches have remained at battery 2 since june 2015. I was modifying a spot to fit a T-1275, but once I saw the Northstar could easily fullfill all my needs on its own, that project was put on the backburners I've not required more house battery capacity, and as much as I remove from it, it can still start my engine. Seems the Northstar cycleability and the high CCA are a good match for me. It seemed a waste to have the very capable Northstar being cycled only when I needed to equalize my 'dedicated' house battery. A while back I considered carrying a small 12 or 18AH AGM just for the jumper battery factor, should it be required, but put that off too. I was considering a small Odyssey Agm as they have no issues with very high recharge rates, but had I plunked down the ~100$ for it, it so far would have been unused. I'm all for warm and fuzzies. A dedicated starting battery would remove all worries. My Northstar is well used and aged and one day there will be the inconvenient 'click' when i turn the key. I guess my goalpost is to have another battery ready for the day I hear that click, but not two days before. That said, if I did have a dedicated engine starting battery it would not be a top $$ high CCA cycleable Agm battery, but likely a wally world starter group 27. If I were to have a dedicated house battery, and since I can recharge properly, I would go for the top$$ cycleable AGM, and 125Ah Lifeline GPL-31XT or perhaps the 150AH GPL-30HT would fit that bill. But then again so could their 100Ah group 27. But since I want one battery for both engine and house duties I will compromise some deep cycleability for high CCA, and the Northstar has proven itself to me in this task. But then again I also occassionally enjoy dippng a hydrometer, so the flooded trojan T-1275 is still in the cards, but as far as cycling a 12v flooded marine battery again, well no, not gonna happen. I view maintenance free flooded starting batteries as a No go too. I figure they were made/ marketed to those who, when asked when they last changed their engine oil, respond "changed it to what?"
landyacht318 01/12/18 11:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Chassis?Starter Grp 31 AGM. CROWN1 AGM?

Your Cat maintenance free starter battery requireed a different charging protocol when deeply discharged. Mex once told me to bring such a battery to 15v until amps taper to near zero. I have noticed one maintenance free flooded battery exhibit this behavior more attune to an AGM, where they require 0.0x amps to be held at high voltages when fully recharged. I've twice had to do this to my neighbors BMW starter battery which is in his trunk. I've also noted it tends to warm up quickly if fed more than 20 amps( about 75AH capacity). I've had to lower the voltage of my meanwell to the absolute bottom to keep amperage below this when first hooked up, then bump it up in stages until it reaches 15 and amps taper to near 0. This specific maintenance free Battery has been drained to sub 11 volts twice in over 5 years that I know of and I suspect if I had not given it the 15v treatment it would not have made it this long. When New, well after one deep cycle and a high amp recharge, the ability of my Northstar AGM battery to start my engine quickly was astoundingly quick. It has since lost that turbo cranking grunt, but still maintains over 11 volts when cranking an overnight cold 54f degree engine when 35Ah from full. When 65AH from full it now maintains over 10.2v and the engine still starts easily. Its cranking ability when deeply discharged basically had me decide I did not even require a dedicated house battery in my current usage patterns. The only change I will make on my next battery is a group 31 instead of a 27. I could fit 345Ah total of battery capacity, I have been making due with 90.
landyacht318 01/12/18 12:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Chassis?Starter Grp 31 AGM. CROWN1 AGM?

For maximum CCA, for engine starting, NOrthstar And Odyssey AGM batteries have 1150 CCA each in the group 31 size. 100AH. I've been deep cycling a Northstar Group27 for over 4 years and over 700 Deep cycles. I would buy the same battery again tomorrow if it failed tomorrow. It will not fail tomorrow. Northstar AGM's are relabelled and sold as X2Power at batteries plus, and might have another year added to Northstar's 4 year warranty. I had crown flooded marine batteries in the distant past, group 27. They were heavier than Wallyworld group 27 marine batteries, and 30% more expensive. I did not really recharge them properly to give a good report on longevity or lack thereof. They used a lot of water starting at about 200 medium depth cycles No Idea about Crown AGM's Crown starter group31 is 60.4 LBS and 100AH and 950CCA Lifeline gpl-31T is 64Lbs and 105Ah 600CCA Lifeline GPL-31XT is 74Lbs amnd 125AH 650CCA Northstar group31/Odyssey PC2150 are 75 and 78Lbs 1150CCA 103 and 100 AH Lifeline are not as high on The CCA as some other AGMS, but thicker plates means more deep cycles. Not sure there is any difference between lifeline starting batteries vs Deep cycle batteries, other than marketing. NO opinion on the Trojan AGM, I've read nothing about their longevity, good or bad. If a Lead acid battery is not treated well, meaning it is overdischarged regularly and not fully recharged regularly, the best battery is not going to last much longer, if any, than the cheapest. The better battery might respond to a hail mary extended 'restoration' charge. Or it might not. Either one accepts shorter than desirable battery lifespans, or they spend a bit more so they can regularly fully charge the batteries. When one can properly and fully recharge LEad acid, Only then one can get ones money's worth from the more expensive batteries. In my opinion. But expecting a top$$ battery to be immune from abusive usage is unwise. Abuse means overdischarge and not being brought to full charge regularly, and often, after any significant discharge.
landyacht318 01/11/18 09:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Half Baked Survey / Battery Management Panel Meters

My dashboard has two voltmeters with voltage sense leads on battery terminals. It also has an ammeter that at one point measured total alternator output, but now measures only amperage into or out of house battery. But my house battery is also my engine battery since June 2015, so one of those dashboard voltmeter sense lines is on the OEM wiring rather than a battery terminal. I have an AH counter tiesd to my solar controller. It displays total solar input and output, and amps into or out of battery. My 40 amp plug in adjustable voltage charging source has an inline Wattmeter installed on the output terminals, modified with 8awg. 45 amp anderson powerpoles are widespread. I have a few of these same wattmeters I can employ inline on any circuit under 45 amps. These wattmeters read : Amps Volts Watts Amp peak Watt peak Voltage minimum Amp hours Watt hours I'd estimate they are about 92 to 95% accurate in the 0.6amp to 40 amp range . Below 0.6 amps they read low, but it varies unit to unit. I had one which was accurate down to 0.06 amps. I cannot imagine not knowing how many amps my battery is accepting at X voltage or how many volts it is maintaining under X amount of load for X AH removed from full. Voltage readings alone are nearly useless in comparison, but better than nothing.
landyacht318 01/08/18 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: 12v Converter question

How many output amps at 19.5vDC does the TV's power brick state? There are many DC to DC converters out there. Here is a 150 watt one: These adjustable units can be employed for battery equalization too, on limited battery capacities. Lots of laptops work on 19.5vDC, and their 'car adapters' will have the much despised ciggy plug, and an enclosed powerbrick. Just cut off the ends and put on the right barrell plug/connector. Some of these are 60 watts max, some are 90, some are 120. Ciggy plugs are basically good only for 60 watts or less, unless upgraded, then they might be good for 120 watts but perhaps not continuously.
landyacht318 01/08/18 12:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Power Pack Jump Starter

The Amp ratings on both lead acid jumper packs, and Lithium jumper packs seem to have as much merit as lumen claims on chinese flashlights or the mAH claims of their used and rewrapped 18650 cells. So much about whether the jumper pack can start the vehicle, depends on just how badly depleted the engine battery is. There are youtube videos showing these lithium jumper packls starting an engine with the regular battery unhooked. The little 12AH AGM battery (UPG12120) in my long gone jumperpack had no issues jumping my 5.2 liter v8 engine, but back then I did not know how dead I had drawn the engine battery. They sell some of these smaller AGMS as "high rate" versions. https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Battery-Wheelchairs-Scooters-Mobility/dp/B06ZXTBSJR/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1515383812&sr=8-2&keywords=UB12120+agm+keyko I considered getting a lithium jumperpack a few years back. If I had one I would have only required it, to help others. I've witnessed them work several times on cars which just had one click when the key was turned before applying the jumper, and with the jumper they cranked seemingly quickly. Having them bake in the glove box in summer, or half frozen in the wastes of winter is another factor with Lithium.
landyacht318 01/07/18 09:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Amps Rating 1991 Ford E350 Solenoid and CB Question UPDATE

While one still at the mercy of the alternator's voltage regulator, as to how many amps could flow, I recommend one go fat on the cabling and oversized on the Solenoid. I've read that when the solenoids fail, they fail with the contacts seized together, meaning NO isolation with engine off, and a deep cycled starting battery along with the house. Also ideally, the solenoid trigger circuit would only become live after the engine is actually running, not with the Key to ON. An illuminated toggle switch would be employed if I could not find such a circuit to act as the trigger. I would not want my house batteries contributing to starter motor current. This also beats up the solenoid contacts more. Cole-Hersee-24213 200 amp continuous Silver Tungsten carbide contacts. Step up to 4awg minimum. Be aware that some solenoids are latching, and should not be fed a continuous 12v, just a momentary 12v pulse to latch or unlatch. I was unaware of this one one vehicle I was trying to troubleshoot, and apparently so was the person who tried to install it originally.
landyacht318 01/02/18 08:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Why Does Stainless Steel "Rust"?

Stainless steel potted in epoxy, will corrode as it is deprived from oxygen. I have removable surfboard fins whose tabs require reinforcement, and I used to predrill from the base up into the base of the fin, and used #6 sheet metal screws to bridge the high stress area. Almost every fin I did this to has shown some corrosion, and I now make carbon fiber rods out of roving and epoxy and use these in place of the SS screws. The stainless steel also proved to not be up to the task of the stresses placed on it. The fin did not break off, the stainless steel screws bent but allowed me to not lose the fin. This is some pretty heavy usage for Stainless as the salt water will remain in the fin receptacle long after the surf session is over, and when it does dry out the concentrated salt will weep from the fin receptacles. I do not know the grade of stainless used on these fasteners, but it is not magnetic at all. It is also possible for the stainless steel heads to be impregnated with steel from the screwdriver head, and they will bleed rust stains. I have some cheap stainsteel chef's knives which will show rust spotting and which proves resistant to removal. These knives do not hold an edge very long either, and if i quickly sharpen them using the same stone that i used on my carbon steel machete, it might develop micro rust stains on the bevelled edge, which actually seems to help cut through a ripe tomato even better.
landyacht318 12/29/17 01:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Your opinion of Battery Desulfators

Brulaz back when i did the Meanwell modification, soldering was much more alien to me than it is now, and I did curse a good amount when trying to desolder and remove the original 1000 Ohm potentiometer, and was fearful of ruining it by lifting the of the traces with too much heat applied for too long. I have a thread on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 Herehere. All the Pics will be dead though because of Photobucket's money grab. From memory, My original pot that I removed from the meanwell measured 973 ohms, and with this original potentiometer, the voltage range was 13.23v to 19.23v The Bourns ten turn 1000 Ohm potentiometer measured 1023 ohms, and with it voltage range increased to 13.12v to 19.23v. While voltages above 16.2v are pretty much useless, unless I want to hear the screwy31 fizz like a freshly opened soda bottle, I was happy to have a little lower range for if/when i decide to cycle/float a warm a flooded battery. Recently my friend's sealed flooded battery was discharged to a rested 11.6 volts and when I set voltage to 13.6v, the amperage quickly rose upinto the 35 range, and a few years ago this same battery got very warm quickly when fed more than 20 amps. So I basically did lower the voltage as much as I could to limit amp flow into this particular sealed flooded ca/ca maintenance free battery, and just bumped up voltage to keep about 10 to 15 amps flowing into it every half hour until it was down to sub 0.4 amps at 15 volts and the battery never seemed to warm much above ambient. I understand that a lower ohm potentiometer will allow for more precise voltage adjustments, but I would not want to lose the original voltage range. Honestly it is quite easy to dial in voltage to 0.01 of a volt with the 1000 ohm 3600 degree potentiometer. I also have a bourns 3600 degree potentiometer controlling my alternator's voltage regulator, this one is a 2000 ohm and I find it a bit of a pain to twist the pot 4+ times to go from 13.6 to 14.7 or back. I would prefer a three turn potentiometer for this duty, but a couple more twists is hardly going to make me shake my fist at the sky in frustration. My point being I do not require the precise control of 10 turns for the whole voltage range. I will defer to mex's expertise, but I am confused why he would recommend a lower ohm potentiometer than what came in installed in the units. I 'think' a 200 Ohm potentiometer in my meanwell vs the original 1000 OHM, would not allow me to dial in voltages under 16v, and i would be stuck in the ~16.5 to 19.23 range. 973 ohms yielded 13.23 minumum voltage 1023 ohm yielded 13.12 minimum voltage 0 ohms yielded the same maximum 19.23 volts What would 500 or even 200 ohms yield for minimum voltage? Color me confused. Regarding the original fan, yes it is loud. I have employed 2 Noctua fans, known for being well designed and quiet, on the steel lid. One 60Mm to push air in and one 80mm to suck air out. In 75F ambients it takes about 10 minutes at max output before the turbo 40MM original fan will kick on, and at 65F ambients it will not come on at all at max output. The casing of the meanwell is used as a heatsink. I put rather large finned heatsinks thermoepoxied to the casing adjacent the transistors which generate the heat drilling holes in the heatsink to allow access to the screws which pull the trnasistors tight to the casing. These can get quite hot. I could really add a 60mm fan to each one of these, but in my use with my battery capacity 40 amps will only flow for about 25 minutes maximum, so the loud meanwell fan only needs to be tolerated for a short while. I cannot hear the Noctua fans with cabinet door closed, and unless it exceeds 32 amps output, the meanwell fan will never come on. with the electrical cabinet door open the Notcua fans are whisper quiet. Without the Noctua fans the loud Meanwell fan would cycle on and off at just 6 amps IIRC. But with them, and the external heatsinks 32 amps seems to be the figure at which the unit makes much more heat. I have thermopoxied a thermocouple to an internal heatsink. the Meanwells fan comes on at about 104f but does not turn off until it drops to 96f. I;ve yet to see temps on this heatsink exceed 120F, unless I block the flow of the Noctua fans with my hands. Seeing the lack of arctic silver thermal grease on Mex's part list, I assume his method does not require removing the guts from the casing to access the underside of the circuit board.
landyacht318 12/22/17 07:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Your opinion of Battery Desulfators

Many flooded batteries ago, I was rather insistent I did not need a hydrometer, as I had a shunted battery monitor. My discharges were not deep and my battery monitor kept telling me that all was well. But for the AH removed from full, the voltage was dipping lower and lower all too soon. Finally, I got the screwy 31, which I thought was the best 12v marine battery I could get my hands on. After 3 weeks of cycles this battery too, was dropping to 12.2v under light loads with nowhere near 65Ah of its 130 depleted, and I was seriously irritated. 130AH of capacity was seriously showing 12.2v under a 2.3 amp load with 21Ah removed from it, on a 3 week old battery getting 2 hours of 14.4v a day and floating at 13.1 the rest of the day with 25 to 35Ah removed from it daily. So I finally get a temp compensated hydrometer( OTC 4619) let my solar controller goto blinking all is well mode, dip the cells and find them all at 1.220 or less Deep in the red! But but but my solar controller was flashing that green light and saying 0 AH from full every day well before sundown!! My Only plug in charger at that time was an automatic schumacher, and this crazy charger will decide on its own, for whatever unfathomable resasonable reason, to sometimes go as high as 16.4 volts. I got it to go up there and it took something like 5 hours before Specific gravity crossed the 1.270 threshold on this three week old battery with 20 cycled on it to ~75% state of charge!! The inability to really control the schumacher had me EQing the battery via my solar controller, setting absorption and float eventually as high as 16 volts for the regularly required EQ charges, and Specific gravity proved to max out at 1.285, but of course I had to prevent overnight discharge so the solar had enough sun and time to do this. It was a pain in the keester. But I leanred what this battery required. The screwy31 still lives, though it was removed from deep cycle duty in my Rig in June 2015 and has seen mostly very light cycles since powering leds and fans and taking some load off of the 15 amp circuit feeding my workshop when I approached that limit using power tools. I got about 535 deep cycles from the screwy 31 before I removed it from service in my rig and moved it to workshop floor. It likely has several hundred more shallow cycles on it since, primarily fed by the schizo Schumacher which comes on automatically when it gets 115vac and will shoot upto as high as 16.4v at the 2 amp setting. About 2 weeks ago, the terminals were growing green and white corrosion badly through the grease and the lid was wet yet covered in cedr dust, weird things began happening to lights and fans, and 24 hours after removal from a charger it was still reading well over 13 volts. I decided it was time for the baking soda treatment with a toothbrush to all corrosion. I found each cell had plates exposed about 1/4 inch as exposed on most cells. I covered the cells and left the meanwell rsp-500-15 on it overnight at 14.7v, then in the morning cranked up voltage in a few stages, keeping about 5 amps flowing into the battery until it reached 16.2v. Then I dusted off my hydrometer, and while there was barely enough electrolyte to fill the chamber and make the float float, all cells were in the green compensated for temperature. Then I filled the battery full with filtered drinking water, as I was not driving to store, just for distilled water, and dipped again and could not even get the float, to float. No surprise. I let the meanwell pump ~18 more AH into it over ~12 hours or so at 14.4v, and got readings of ~1.220 on all cells. I twisted voltage upwards to get 5 amps, in stages, until 16v was reached and left it there for a bit, then returned the meanwell to my rig. I Did not bother checking specific gravity again, but I bet I could, if babysitting it, get SG upto 1.275 plus on 5 of the 6 cells. Many years ago I had 2 flooded 27s in parallel as dedicated house batteries, obviously sulfated. My friend had a battery minder 12248. I removed one battery and left it on the Minder for a week, then did the same to the other battery and put them back in parallel. There was no improvement in voltage held for AH removed. Magically dissolve hardened sulfation? my keester. My experience is the batteryminder pulse 'desulfating' charger was able to fully charge the sulfated battery, but it was not able to magically restore lost capacity on sulfated, chronically undercharged marine batteries, whose cycles were not all that deep. I was getting about 300 to 400 cycles to no less than 75% state of charge before performance was dismal and I deemed replacement of the pair of marine 27's, was necessary. The screwy31 proved to me that full charge requires a hydrometer and much longer absorption charge durations, higher absorption voltages, and more frequent equalizations when deep cycled nightly. My current Northstar AGM-27 proves to me that TPPL AGM batteries love high amp recharges, and to be held at absorption voltage until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity. I have over 700 Deep cycles, over 4 years on this AGM. It is my ONLY battery, for house and engine and has been since I removed the screwy31 from my rig in june of 2015. While I can tell performance is not what it was when new, it still has absolutely no problems starting my engine depleted 65 amp hours of however many remain of the original 90 it was rated at, but granted it is not a cold environment. I attribute the rather impressive lifespan and performance of this battery to high amp recharges, regular recharges to full almost every cycle, and I attribute this ability to achieve true full, to my modified MEanwell rsp-500-15, and also to my modified transpo540HD external adjustable voltage regulator controllng my alternator, and to my adjustable voltage MPPT solar controller. The Key words are adjustable voltage. Knowing how long to achieve and then hold that voltage requires an Ammeter, on my AGM, and anyone who wnts good or better longevity from hard working regularly deep cycled floded batteries would be wise to have the ability to attain a true full, either by the 15v top charge, or the 16v equalization and of course the hydrometer to say when it is actually full. Believing any magically marketed automatic charger is going to restore a sulfated battery, is simply hope and faith and the human desire to pat themselves on teh back for their expenditure of money on such a product claiming it can defy physics and logic and wanting really badly, to believe it. I get that people do not want to babysit a battery, twisting dials watching voltmeters and ammeters or dipping hydrometers, but returning a battery in an unknown condition, other than it is degraded, to maximum remaining capacity, pretty much requires it. Get a hydrometer, and an Ammeter, and a charging source which can get a battery upto 16v for as long as is wanted, by the human observing it. I've not done mex's current limiting light bulb, but I do twist voltage upwards in stages to keep about 5% of capacity flowing into the battery, and I will hold 16 to 16.2v as long as required to get specific gravity to max out or stop rising, and the screwy 31, still lives. The other strategy is simply replace batteries more often. that could be a lot easier, and many people can afford to simply throw money at any problem. Not everybody has that option, but I would not buy any magically marketed desulfator thinking that it would do oanything more than a non pulse charger would, holding the battery at the same voltages. Mex is largely responsible for my Adjustable voltage mindset and my ubndersstanding of what it takes to actually achieve a fully charged battery and thus good battery longevity, and I am achieving very good to excellent battery longevity, and have supreme confidence I can continue to do so, as I have the knowledge, mindset, and the tools that can do so, and none of them has the word automatic anywhere on it And All my neighbors/friends know to bring me their batteries when they think it is time for a new one, or they needed a jumpstart. The meanwell with the Ammeter and AH/WH counter attached has kept almost every battery brought to me in service, even well beyond my expectations. I think this expectation exceeding, is more a tribute to how little capacity a battery needs to start a fuel injected engine in a mild climate I usually can stuff 12 to 15more AH into the batteries brought to me after their automatic chargers flashed the green light, on their 50 to 100AH SLI starter batteries. An adjustable voltage power supply and an ammeter will prove time and again, automatic chargers stop well short of the endgoal, and I feel that expecting any automatic charging source pulse charger or otherwise, to be able to restore an abused sulfated starting, marine or deep cycle battery to its maximum remaining potential capacity, is unwise in the extreme, to put it kindly. I'd rather not put it kindly, but, so it goes. My Meanwell rsp-500-15 is modified with a 10 turn bourns Potentiometer, and extra ventilation and heatsinking, but it can choose any voltage from 13.12 to 19.23 volts, and can provide upto 40 amps and can do it all day long. It has thousands of hours on it floating my battery at 13.6 or so and several hundred at higher voltages. It was 127$ delivered, but the POt, fans and wattmeter added another $75.The extra heatsinks were a gift from a member here. But it is the most capable 40 amp charger/converter/desulfator on the planet and has likely paid for itself in the batteries it has either restored to their maximum remaining potential capacity, and by allowing me the ability to keep my hard working AGM in top condition for as long as it has. The ability to twist a voltage potentiometer and see how many amps flow into a battery at various levels of depletion is Extremely enlightening as to how a battery charges, and the condition of that battery.
landyacht318 12/21/17 03:07pm Tech Issues
RE: How to secure screws in plywood going with grain??

Thanks I've worked with west systems epoxy, By far my least favorite, Way too much amine blush which makes secondry bonding troublesome, and the 4:1 mixing ratio leaves a lot of room for error. 2:1 is much better, but I prefer using to mix by weight. 100:45 or 44 or 43 depending on the epoxies I use. West is kind of Ubiquitous, but few who work on boars choose it.
landyacht318 12/18/17 06:15pm Tech Issues
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