Yep, I went through many 50/120 chrysler reman'd alternators over the years. Especially before I got solar.
It was after that I took an old set of 4awg jumper cables doubled them up in one ring terminal on both ends, and ran it right from alternator(+) to my Battery switch Common, and really let those alternator amps fly.
Grounds were upgraded too.
Frankly, I was surprised it lasted as long as it did.
I've not stressed the 'new' one yet, nor seen what it can do and compare it to old. My MeanWell has been floating my AGM when the Solar is not.
Thanks for the workaround ideas.
My desire to see alternator current into the battery(s) from the driver's seat is not so high that I would really expend that much effort.
Running a new set of twisted pair to the display from my existing shunt would be as far as I would go and 25$ maximum.
My last alternator recently failed, and I maxed it out often and regularly for nearly 7 years before it failed. While it was failing it was the voltage it was able to hold, along with the noise it was making, that led me to want to see the amperage from drivers seat, as its output became more and more stunted, and was not able even bring the fully charged battery above 13.2v at higher rpms at the end, and at idle I could watch voltage drop to 12.6v.
An analog meter, that would display both (-) and (+) amperage flow would be OK, but my dashboard would not accommodate it nicely, and 70$ is more than I am willing to pay for the privilege of the convenience of not looking over my shoulder and seeing what my battery monitor reads.
My Alternator was also a lifetime warranty unit, and Oreilly's honored Kragen's warranty and just gave me another reman at no cost, and it took less than 15 minutes to swap out. This latest reman was a Wilson, reman'd in Mexico, and I did not see the traditional 'charge battery first before starting engine' that previous reman'd units came with which were 'Autolite' labelled.
I did one time have a previous Reman quit working when it only had 200 miles on it and was asked to charge 3 group 27 batteries depleted to inverter alarm level. After fully charging the batteries via the grid and another 20 miles of driving, the alternator magically kicked back in.
I was south of the border and was going to attempt to make it north on battery power alone, when it started functioning again. Not sure why it kicked back in, or what caused it to give out in the first place, other than the load of 3 super depleted batteries.
I would like an alternator more capable at my 525 rpm hot idle speed. I did employ a slightly smaller pulley on my last unit but it could not be employed safely on the latest reman.
So it appears the 5v wall wart USB outlets are fried.
A future solution can be a 12v to 5vUSB outlet, that way they phones still charge if the power goes out.
I've been very happy with this unit:
I also have this USB power meter. It allowed me to see why some USB sources and cable combinations were so poor and others would charge much faster.
That model actually counts amp hours consumed on several different devices, but that feature is a bit clunky.
Here is a professional review:
I've also bought a bunch of 1' long Micro USB cables. I've found the short length to be way more convenient. Anker brand on Amazon. These pass data and have the least voltage drop, and when I use it with that Blueseas 12v to 5vUSB power supply, charge My S4 Mini significantly faster than the Samsung provided cable and 120Vac USb power supply.
I cannot find a 50Mv digital Ammeter rated for 100 amps.
I will not be plumbing another shunt inline just for a dashboard mounted Ammeter.
I wonder if there are any mountable inexpensive hall effect sensor Ammeters that can handle 100 Amps.
I'm not concerned about accuracy under 2 amps.
I should not have bothered pointing out that my 100 amp project meter was inaccurate under 2 amps.
All I care about is whether 2 50Mv Ammeters can be hooked to one 50Mv 500 amps Shunt, which is already in place for my battery monitor, and which does accurately read currents under 2 amps.
But since there does not appear to be an inexpensive 100 amp ammeter that uses a 50Mv shunt.........
If I could have an inexpensive dashboard digital ammeter without wiring up another shunt, great, If I can't, I'm not going to have a hissy fit.
If two different meters cannot use the same shunt, I was hoping to learn why, and further my understanding of things electrical.
That is basically the 100a meter I used on my project that was inaccurate at 2 amps or less and could not read amps below 0.8a.
I do not want to have to rewire my system to accommodate another shunt, but if I could just run some new twisted pair to an inexpensive 50Mv Ammeter from my existing shunt and have it be somewhat accurate, I would do so
I'm having difficulty even finding a 50MV digital meter. I have found a larger analog meter but for 70$, I am not really interested, and implementing it on my dashboard would be more difficult.
I had employed a 20$ Drok 75MV combo v/a meter on a separate project, and it was not accurate at amperages less than 2, but well within my acceptable expectations for monitoring charging current.
I've already got a Deltec 500a 50Mv shunt wired into my system for my battery monitor.
The issue is I have a desire to see alternator charging amps when driving and my battery monitor is not safely visible from driver's seat and is not going to be relocated just for this desire.
If I could find another digital Ammeter which takes a 50Mv shunt, and not the seemingly more popular 75mV, can one use the same shunt for 2 different ammeters and still get accurate readings?
Draw it down 50% of the original nominal capacity at the rate at which it earned that capacity and wait for voltage to rebound.
IE if it were rated 100AH at the 20 hour rate, apply a 5 amp load for 10 hours, remove the load, and wait a few hours for voltage to rebound.
If it rebounds to 12.2 or so, then the battery is still healthy.
By no means a perfect capacity test, but on a single battery of unknown age and condition it will give you a general idea.
I think a reconditioned battery is simply an abused battery still in the warranty period, chronically undercharged and returned by an indignant, but incredibly ignorant owner who makes such a stink, they give him new batteries just to go away.
The seller then performs a conditioning cycle similar to lifeline's procedure on the battery and tries to lower their loss from warrantying the battery in the first place.
I would so despise being in a position to make the modern consumer happy.
I wouldn't buy reconditioned batteries. Who knows how badly they were mistreated by the nimrods which make up so much of the battery buying public
My Friend has a 2013 ram powerwagon with what i think is a 180 amp rated alternator.
I made a portable powerpack containing an inverter and a pd9245 inside it.
I used 2awg, about 14 feet, One way from alternator to Lifeline GPL-31XT 125AH battery. About 12 feet of 2awg from lifeline(-) to engine battery (-) and through a very large Winch connector:
I depleted the battery to ~50% in my own rig.
I then hooked the Lifeline powerpack to the Ram powerwagon, started it, waited for the cold start high idle to mellow, then flipped the switch.
The 100 Amp Ammeter was pegged, and in the time it too me to get my Clamp on ammeter, amps had tapered to just under 100.
~5 minutes later amps had tapered to 86a. Alternator temp skyrocketed to 220F, battery voltage had risen to only 13.4v.
More RPM did not significantly add to Amperage at this point 3K rpm went back upto 92A. I believe the alternator has temperature protections as it never went over 221F on the hottest spot I could find with my IR temp gun.
I was impressed with how much current the single group 31 lifeline accepted, I was impressed how much current the alternator was able to make at idle speed.
The alternator was right on top of the engine, in full flow of the radiator fan. When the alternator first reached 220 F, the oil and coolant temps was still sub 155f.
When designing it, I was considering 1 awg. That winch connector can handle 1 awg. 2 awg maxed out the alternator so 1 awg would likely be even more overkill.
My winch connector mocks your 7 pin connector :)
Odyssey does NOT say to limit charging amps to 10 amps
They specifically say that their batteries require a 40% charge rate when deeply cycled.
40 amps applied for a single 100AH battery until 14.7v at 77f is reached and then hold 14.7v for 4 hours while amps taper to the sub 1 amp range.
10 amps. Phooey.
Lifeline recommends 20 amps minimum for a 100AH battery when deeply cycled, and thei rupper limit on amperage is something ridiculous like 350 or 500 amps
I wish this trickle charge mentality would climb back in the insane asylum with the old wives and their crazy tales.
In my opinion, 45Db is a hideously loud fan.
I think most inverter fans are 60MM
This one maxes out under 20Db
My fridge came with a loud 120mm 72 CFM, 0.12amp sleeve bearing fan which pulled air through the condenser.
I replaced it with a Noctua NF-f12 fan @~55CFM fan and swapped it to push Air through the condenser.
I can no longer hear the fan 90% of the time, and fridge duty cycle decreased, and the Noctua draw less than half the current as the original. Triple win, and 25$ well spent in my book.
The computer muffin fans supplied with most equipment are the cheapest sleeve bearing fans that they could buy in bulk at the time of manufacture.
Yes the sleeve bushings can and should be lubricated, but this is temporary. How temporary? Impossible to say.
Compacted dust on the fan blades is certainly an issue which reduces airflow. If the fan speed is variable with heat, then they will have to run faster and louder for the same level of cooling. My experience is that large dust accumulation slows the fans and makes them quieter. Mostly the quieter is a lower pitch but the measurable DB is likely the same.
Some companies Like Noctua, Silverstone and a few others have taken computer fans to a practically ridiculous level.
I'd Say Noctua is top dog in efficacy for the least amount of noise.
They have a 7 year warranty, if that is the type of thing to float your boat.
I have 3 Noctua fans employed at this moment. 120MM, 80mm and 60MM.
Most will balk at their price. My 120MM Noctua moces 55CFM for very little noise and only 0.05 amp consumption. that is less than half the consumption of other fans moving the same amount of Air.
WD-40 is best used for its designed intention, water displacement. It is a horrible long term lubricant, and in my experience has no ability to prevent rust, and it will eat rubber seals despite the claims on the can.
With just one megawatt, no worries. Mex parallels his and these require some isolation from each other.
Adjust voltage to 14,4v unloaded and let it loose on the 8d until current drops to 0.5% for the 20 hour rating.
If trying to achieve conditioning, a voltage booster will be required to get voltage above 15.5v and it must be capable of handling nearly the full output of the Megawatt when first applied to an other wise 'fully' charged battery
If it were my Used lifeline I was trying to get in line with the other 2, , I would just max out the voltage on the megawatt first and apply it for a good while, before delving into lifeline's prescribed 'conditioning' or deep discharge procedure.
Your solar has just nt been able to hold high voltages for long enough. The Megawatt can.
Boeing has recommended that carriers do not carry Lithium batteries in their holds. It will be upto the profit seeking carriers whether they comply with this recommendation.
I have a Galaxy S4 mini. It too gets hot, and sometimes for no discernable reason and drains the battery like a drunk in a bar getting free drinks.
Even when the Phone's Wifi/ GPS are turned off, and all apps closed, it will do so. Usually rebooting the phone stops this excessive mysto battery drain. Sometimes putting it in airplane mode stops the excessive battery drain, other times not.
The plug and play mentality is not going anywhere MEX.
It is only going to get worse as people expect more and more accessories to function perfectly, automatically. Isn't there an app for that, I can hear them whine.
Even if manual tweaking takes seconds and only requires tweaking 4 times a year, that is reason enough to toe the plug and play line for most.
I love my powersupply. I'll never go back to an automatic device for my own batteries, but if setting up others systems, plug and play is a requirement.
Even well written instructions will confuse. A PS on a timer still leaves too much room for uncertainty for the Neophyte who is proudly ignorant.
Never underestimate the proudly ignorant.
Egad Jim, now Pnichols will crawl out and blast us with another smug round of his parallax and his AGMS and how well it works and this that and the other thing. He's likely already typing another round of this, hoping someone eventually agrees with him and calls him the all wise all knowing battery cycler.
If a healthy and fully charged battery is being sucked dry in 2 to 3 days from parasitic loads, no 18 watt panel is going to make a difference.
I suspect this is yet another case of:
"the alternator is an instant magical battery recharger!"
"I jumped it and drove to the store and back, and now it will not start again! Stupid battery!"
Many reports online of Schumachers going to way too high a voltage.
Mine will goto 16.4v, sometimes, even when the battery is in no need of an Equalization charge. It will pump 14 or 26 amps into a battery, blast it right past the mid to high 14's into the mid 15's as the battery gurgles burps and generally spews diarrhea at this ridiculous and abusive charge rate.
I know it is not just My Schumacher Sc2500a which does this. I simply could/can never trust my Schumacher not to go bat******crazy and try and literally boil the electrolyte.
I've gone the adjustable voltage power supply route, and expel flatulence in the direction of automatic plug and play chargers.
I do like the PD9245 or pd9260 as one can at least override the 'stages' and hold 14.4v for as long as desired by pressing a button.
Cut a pair of jumper cables in half and it is a stand alone battery charger which will put many wheeled chargers to shame for a fraction of the size.
One pays a lot more for that well marketed Push button exterior and cheesy alligator clamps of stand alone 'one size fits none' chargers, which are less capable.